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1 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 1 

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GOOD-LIVING 



A PRACTICAL COOKERY-BOOK 
FOR TOWN AND COUNTRY 



SARA VAN BUREN BRUGIERE 



We may live without poetry, music, and art ; 
We may live without conscience and live without heart ; 
We may live without friends ; we may live without books ; 
But civilized man cannot live without cooks. 

He may live without hooks — what is knowledge but grieving ? 
He may live without hope — what is hope but deceiving? 
He may live without love — what is passion but pining? 
But where is the man that can live without dining ? 

"Lucile" — Owen Meredith. 



G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 

IRK LO 

-THIRD ST. 27 KING WILL 

She liniclurborkr |)ttgs 




LONDON 
27 KING WILLIAM ST., STRAND 



USTT3M. 



<£ 



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Copyright by 

SARA VAN BUREN BRUGIERE 

i8go 



Ube fmicfterbocfter press, Hew igorfc 

Electrotyped, Printed, and Bound by 
G. P. Putnam's Sons 



PREFACE. 

It is proposed, in this present work, to make an attempt 
to carry the simplicity and exactness of the science of cook- 
ery one step forward, and thus contribute toward bringing 
this most excellent and necessary branch of chemistry (of 
which cooking certainly forms a part) into the more imme- 
diate and practical use of our own households. It is most 
earnestly desired to help house-keepers to set forth a dainty 
table at moderate outlay, and to give them receipts so clearly 
and accurately explained that the percentage of success shall 
be materially increased — granted that the same house-keeper 
or her cook shall bring to the undertaking an average amount 
of intelligence ; for, no matter how much pains any writer or 
compiler of cookery-books may take to make receipts clear 
and practical, the same necessity exists as that recognized 
by the great painter, who, when asked how he mixed his 
colors, replied, " With brains, sir." 

There has been, within the last few years, a marked im- 
provement in the designation of the various ingredients and 
their quantities to be used in the preparation of dishes ; it 
is much less common nowadays than formerly to be told to 
" take some " of this, that, or the other, thereby leaving the 
chance of success entirely dependent upon the accident of 
guessing happily, or otherwise, at the relative proportion of 
the component parts of dishes. The noticeable improve- 
ment in this respect is already a stride taken in the right 
direction, and receives full consideration in the present work. 

It is frequently found to be a stumbling-block to the suc- 
cess of a dish that the time for the fire to do its work is not 



IV PREFACE. 

specified. This last must be recognized by all as being a most 
important factor in the case. Of course, it is often impossi- 
ble to lay down fixed rules on this subject ; but it is possible 
to give an approximate idea — to give an average of time, 
which shall be dependent only to a certain extent upon con- 
comitant circumstances, notably upon the heat of the fire ; 
this latter depending, not upon the maker of the cookery- 
book, but upon the maker of the fire. Surely, with experi- 
ence to guide, and an earnest desire to throw light upon this 
important point, we ought and must be able to improve upon 
the old-fashioned " cook until done " ; which form of phrase 
conveys to the amateur, or to the inexperienced cook, no idea 
whatsoever as to whether allowance should be made of six 
hours or six minutes for the fire to do its share in the prepa- 
ration of the dish to be served. This, therefore, is the point 
to which much study has been devoted, for decisions upon 
which the best authorities have been consulted, and unlimited 
tests made, with, it is believed, results that will be of sub- 
stantial service to many struggling souls. 

Especial attention has been given to our conventional, 
simple, home dishes, which, as a rule, are not sufficiently 
noticed ; it being taken for granted, apparently, that, on ac- 
count of their simplicity, directions are unnecessary. This 
mistake causes the results which are witnessed daily ; the 
simpler the thing, the worse it is done. Take, for example, 
tea. How very easy it is to make, and yet how many are 
there who make it really well? Another example : In one 
instance met with, the subject of " Roast Beef " is disposed 
of with about half a dozen lines as to the cooking, a few 
more as to the serving and remarks — leaving, practically, the 
whole success to the brain and experience, or ^-experience, 
of the cook. Now if the cook knows, she requires no re- 
ceipt ; if, on the other hand, she is ignorant and requires a 
receipt, it should certainly be a full and clear one, from which 
she can work with the fairest chance of success ; failing to 
find this, the result, nine times out of ten, is badly roasted 
beef. For these reasons, the receipts for roasting meats, 



PREFACE. V 

poultry, game, etc., have been most carefully studied, even in 
the smallest detail. There is a trite old saying to the effect 
that " If a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well " ; 
to nothing does it apply more correctly than to the question 
of cooking ; therefore, even in the least of these receipts, 
pains have not been spared to enable the cook, be she ama- 
teur or otherwise, to turn out, no matter how simple the 
menu, dishes that shall be successful, appetizing, and com- 
plete. 

An effort has been made to save from the general fate, a 
number of good, old-fashioned receipts, which are gradually 
being elbowed out, and their place taken by elegant novel- 
ties which have, perhaps, not a fractional part of their relish 
to recommend them. But attention is called to the fact that, 
while plain, old-fashioned dishes have their place and share in 
the present book, it is far from being devoted solely to them. 

This work is not designed for chefs de cuisine, but for that 
large class of house-keepers who have a proper appreciation 
of the value of " Good-Living " as being, obviously, conducive 
to health and domestic happiness. For young house-keepers, 
who have their experience to gain ; it is sincerely hoped that 
this present will assist them to purchase that same experience 
at the expense of far fewer failures in the way of dinners, 
far less outlay and waste of good materials, and far less use- 
less expenditure of nerve-force. Also, for the young cook, 
who has a worthy desire to improve herself. It has, there- 
fore, been made a rule to admit no receipt which does not 
bring with it as recommendation, first of all, acceptability ; 
then simplicity of execution, and, possibly not least impor- 
tant consideration, moderate outlay — to furnish the best for 
the least cost — a good cuisine, and, at the same time, an 
economical one. To this end have been eschewed all fanci- 
fully-extravagant receipts, calling for condiments which are 
not habitually in use, or for an excessive quantity of any 
very expensive materials. As there are many books where 
receipts of this latter class may be found, it has been deemed 
unadvisable to add one to that vast collection. 



vi PREFACE. 

An earnest endeavor has been made to collect a series of 
dishes to please all palates, the gourmet's included. There 
will, therefore, be found a large number of receipts for the 
daintiest tastes, selected from many countries, to suit the 
various requirements of our cosmopolitan community. End- 
less researches have been necessary to select these receipts 
from the most approved sources, those from other countries 
being dishes for which one or other land is famous. As the 
French cuisine is recognized as being the first of all, many 
receipts are taken from that source, adapting many of its 
methods to our requirements. In the same way, Belgium, 
that land of solid good-living, second, only, in excellence to 
France, has been taxed for contribution to our work. Eng- 
land, Germany, Italy, Holland, Denmark, etc., etc., all contri- 
bute something. 

From our home cuisine are selected the best and most 
popular dishes of the Eastern States ; those again of Phila- 
delphia, that paradise of terrapin and kindred good things ; 
from Baltimore and the South, many of the excellent dishes 
so well prepared by the negro cooks ; and from further 
South still, we have the many delicious receipts furnished by 
the Creole school of cookery. 

This outline will convey a slight idea of the enormous field 
that has been gone over, and authorities consulted, among 
whom are : 

Urbain-Dubois, " Cuisine Classique." 

Audot, " Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville." 

Caudelier, " Cuisine Economique." 

Pierre Caron, " French Dishes for American Tables." 

Careme. 

Gouffe. 

Soyer. 

Mrs. Reeve, " Cookery and House-Keeping." 

Mrs. Beeton, " Modern Household Cookery." 

Miss Leslie, " Complete Cookery." 

Kensington School, " Lessons in Cookery." 

Mrs. Henderson, " Practical Cooking and Dinner-Giving." 



PREFACE. Vll 

" In the Kitchen." 

Marion Harland, " Common-Sense in the Household." 
" " " Breakfast, Luncheon, and Tea." 

Mrs. Rorer, " Philadelphia Cook Book." 

Miss Corson, " School Text-Book." 
" " " Cooking Manual." 

Miss Parloa. 

Etc., Etc., Etc. 

There is given a " Time-Table " for meats, one for poul- 
try and game, and one for vegetables. This is believed to 
be a novelty, and one that will supply a long-felt want ; and 
should be of great assistance, as the tables have been pre- 
pared with infinite pains, research, and tests innumerable. 

There is also given a " Table of Comparative Weights 
and Measures," which will be found useful in the kitchen. 

A chapter of " Relishes for Breakfast " has been added, 
which, it is hoped, will serve as an aid to the house-keeper 
in making out her bill-of-fare for tftat meal ; oftentimes 
a weariness to the spirit after the labor of planning for 
luncheon and dinner. 

The chapter of " Stray Notes," contains, as its title implies, 
notes on various household subjects, which may be of prac- 
tical service. There are directions for the " Order of Service 
of Dinner," which will be found very useful in making out 
menus. Also will be found, wherever it is deemed appro- 
priate, the French as well as the English names of dishes. 

As a rule, the receipts are based upon the requirements of 
a family of average size — that is, six to eight persons. 

Acknowledgments are tendered to those authors from 
whose works have been taken some of the following receipts ; 
as also to the many private sources which have contributed 
so generously to the collection. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I. — Preface. . iii 

II. — Table of Comparative Weights and Meas- 
ures xii 

III. — Soups, Purees, and Soups without Meat . i 

IV. — General Directions for Frying . 40 

V. — Fish . . . 42 

VI.— Shell-Fish .68 

VII. — Time-Table for Cooking Meats ... 88 
VIII. — Directions for Keeping Meats Warm and 

Re-Heating 89 

IX. — Beef 90 

X. — Mutton and Lamb 116 

XL — Veal 132 

XII.— Pork 164 

XIII. — Time-Table for Cooking Game and Poul- 
try 174 

XIV. — Poultry 175 

XV. — Game 205 

XVI. — Macaroni and Entries not otherwise 

Classified 224 

XVII. — Force-Meats, Garnishes, etc. . . . 233 

XVIIL— Sauces 243 

XIX. — Time-Table for Cooking Vegetables . 264 

XX. — Vegetables 265 

XXI. — Salads and Dressings . . . . ' . 324 

XXII. — Savory Relishes 340 

XXIII. — Order of Service of a Dinner . . . 345 

XXIV. — Relishes for Breakfast . . . .347 

XXV.— Eggs 350 

ix 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 

XXVI. — Butter, Cheese, etc 

XXVII. — Bread, Biscuit, and Breakfast Cakes 

XXVIII— Cakes 

XXIX. — Icings and Fillings for Cakes . 
XXX. — Pastry, Pies, and Puddings 
XXXI. — Pudding Sauces .... 
XXXII. — Desserts, Jellies, Creams, Fritters, 
tards, etc. .... 
- XXXIII. — Ice-Creams and Water-Ices 
XXXIV. — Preserves and Candies 
XXXV. — Pickles, Catsups, etc. . - . 

XXXVI. — Beverages, etc 

XXXVII. — Cookery for Invalids . 
XXXVIII.— Stray Notes 



Cus- 



PAGS 
369 

373 
394 
419 

423 
45° 

454 
490 

5o5 
5i5 
522 

5 2 9 
532 




TABLE OF COMPARATIVE WEIGHTS AND 
MEASURES. 



16 ounces equal 

I quart of sifted flour 

i quart of powdered sugar 

I quart of granulated sugar 

i closely-packed pint of butter 

10 moderate-sized eggs 

3 cups of sugar 

5 cups of sifted flour 

Butter, size of an egg about 

Butter, size of a walnut " 

i tablespoonful of butter " 

Average weight of a good-sized egg " 

1 pint of water or fruit juice " 

i sherry glass = y 2 gill. 

i wineglass = i gill. 

i cup = about y 2 pint or 2 gills. 

5 sherry or whiskey bottles to i gallon. 

4 gills = i pint, 2 pints = i quart, 4 quarts = 1 gallon. 

60 drops = 1 teaspoonful, 2 teaspoonfuls = 1 dessertspoonful 
4 teaspoonfuls = 1 tablespoonful. 

2 dessertspoonfuls = 1 tablespoonful. 

1 tumbler = )/ 2 pint or 2 gills. 

2 saltspoons = 1 teaspoon (dry). 



GOOD-LIVING 



SOUPS, PUREES, AND SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUP. 



CONSOMME. 



8 lbs. shin of beef, 
10 quarts of water, 

3 or 4 large carrots, 

4 large onions, 
io allspice, 

i head of celery, 



Whole shin of veal, 

Salt and pepper, 

3 leeks, 

6 cloves, 

I cup of tomatoes or a handful of sorrel, 

Bunch of parsley. 



Put the meat, water, pepper, and salt into a large-soup- 
kettle. (An old hen may be substituted for the shin of veal.) 
Keep it where it will come slowly to a boil, I hour ; then 
draw it forward, and bring it to a good boil ; skim as the 
scum rises ; in another hour add the vegetables, etc. ; boil 
very gently, but incessantly for about io hours, making in all 
about 12 hours of cooking. 

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the importance of 
these two great essentials to the making of good soup : 
First, never let the soup stop boiling for one instant : Never 
add water, once the soup is started. Neither, on the other 
hand, must you let the soup boil at a racking rate, or it will 
be muddy, and you will lose a great deal by evaporation. 
If the fire needs replenishing, have your cook feed first one 



2 GOOD-LIVING. 

side, then the other, when the first is well ignited. These 
rules are very simple, surely, but it will be found extremely 
difficult to make the ordinary cook, of the style we have in 
America, respect or appreciate them, unless by patience and 
repetition on the part of the house-keeper. The best soup 
in the world, no matter how much good material has been 
put into it, will be rendered insipid, flat, and tasteless by the 
infraction of any of these rules. Take them to heart : call 
them the " Golden Rules " of soup-making, and you will 
have learned a secret which you can impart to your sister- 
house-keepers, with the secure sense of conferring a benefit 
upon poor soup-loving, long-suffering humanity. 

As your soup must boil a long time, I have chosen this 
opportunity for a little dissertation on soup-making, which 
will be equally well applied to many of the following receipts. 
This receipt for Consomme, and those for Bouillon and 
Pot-au-feu are the " mother soups," so to speak, and therefore 
there cannot be too much pains on my part, nor too much 
patience on yours, to make them clearly understood, ex- 
plained, and studied. Learn to make these reliably and 
thoroughly well, and one great step has been taken toward 
the setting forth of a good dinner. 

When your soup has boiled gently for its prescribed time, 
take it off ; strain it into a large bowl and set it away until 
next day. Then remove the fat from the surface (this makes 
excellent drippings) ; pour off all the clear part into a sauce- 
pan, and boil again for I or 2 hours. Then remove it from 
the fire. This will make a stiff jelly which will keep in win- 
ter for several days in the ice-box. It will serve also to make 
a handsome Brown Sauce (Espagnole). The best way to keep 
it, is to divide it in parts, allowing a certain quantity for 
each day, then that one part is used without disturbing the 
rest. Yellow earthenware pitchers holding I to 2 quarts 
each will be found the best to put it in. Use the thick part 
of the soup with vegetables, or other pur6e. If you have 
the carcass of a raw chicken, or any raw beef-bones, they can 
be added when the soup is first put down ; but cooked meat 



GILT-EDGED BOUILLON. 3 

or bones, unless freed from every particle of fat or meat, will 
muddy the soup. 

This soup requires no artificial coloring. 

The above, sufficiently boiled down in an uncovered sauce- 
pan, will make an excellent Glaze. (See receipt for same.) 



GILT-EDGED BOUILLON. 

This receipt gives the proportions for one quart of bouillon 
sufficiently concentrated for the use of invalids. The same 
proportions may be used, but not boiled quite as long, for 
dinners, luncheons, etc., etc. For the former purpose, that is 
for illness, where the quantity administered is required to be 
as nutritious as possible, it is decidedly better not to clear it 
any more than by passing it through a fine strainer. Ex- 
perience has proved quite satisfactorily the fact that the 
process of clearing destroys a great deal, not only of the 
more delicate flavor, but also of the nutriment contained in 
the bouillon. The two " Golden Rules " of soup-making 
will require repetition very often before we succeed in get- 
ting our consommes and bouillons properly made : Never 
let the soup cease boiling when once it has begun : Never 
add water after your ingredients are once put together and 
begin to boil. 

The following receipt is the result of much personal study 
and observation, with a view to two things : First, success ; 
then simplicity ; once made, literally according to directions, 
it should never fail. 

3 lbs. of beef without bone or fat, 3 or 4 cloves, 

3 quarts of cold water, 6 or 8 allspice, 

1 scant cup of fresh or canned tomatoes, 1 small teaspoon of salt, 

1 small bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic (this can be omitted 
1 piece of red-pepper pod, about yi for the sick), 

inch (without seeds), 1 level teaspoon of celery seed. 

The beef should be as freshly killed as possible, and pref- 



4 GOOD-LIVING. 

erably of the cut known by the butchers as the " horse- 
shoe." 

Put the above ingredients into the soup-kettle, cover, and 
bring to a boil ; when boiling smartly, set aside where it will 
simmer steadily ; do not let it rack. After 2£ hours, add : 



medium-sized carrot cut in pieces, i sprig of thyme, 

onion cut in pieces, I bunch of parsley and celery (if you 

have not already used seed). 



Replace the cover, leaving the top at least •§• open. Boil 
again 2£ hours, making 5 hours of actual boiling in all. 
Now taste it. If not strong enough, boil longer until satis- 
factory. No exact time nearer than the above can be given, 
as circumstances (the amount and rapidity of evaporation, 
etc., etc.) will vary. When cooked to your taste, strain all 
the broth off through a hair-sieve into a bowl. At this stage 
it should measure a full quart (always speaking of that to be 
used for the sick) ; or about 3 pints for dinner use. Stand it 
away until next morning. Then remove every particle of 
grease from the surface. If you are satisfied not to clarify 
it, carefully pour off the upper portion ; do not shake the 
bowl or disturb the sediment. Add about 2 tablespoonfuls 
of sherry, some salt, celery-salt (if necessary), and cayenne. 
This will now measure, wine included, a scant quart. 

To clarify the Bouillon, after removing the fat, pour it 
into a very clean kettle, add to it the unbeaten white of 1 
egg, also the crushed shell ; stir these into the cold soup un- 
til well mixed. Set it on the fire, and from the time it breaks 
into a boil, let it cook steadily for 10 minutes (longer will re- 
duce the soup, and make it still stronger). Stand it on the 
hearth for 3 or 4 minutes to settle ; then pour it through a 
jelly-bag, made of well-shrunken flannel. Do not squeeze 
the bag, but allow it to drip to the last drop. Then add the 
above amount of sherry, with seasonings as directed. This 
soup requires no artificial coloring, its own strength and long 
boiling producing a beautiful tint. 



POT-AU-FEU. 5 

POT- A U-FEU. 

3 pounds of lean beef, 4 quarts cold water, 
Pinch of salt, 2 carrots, 

2 turnips, small, 1 parsnip, 

2 leeks, Bunch of celery leaves, 

Bunch of parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 

2 whole cloves, I clove of garlic, 

4 allspice, Small piece of red-pepper pod, 
Small piece of lemon-peel, I cup of stewed tomatoes. 

The best cut for this is from the round, lower end, called 
the " horse-shoe " piece by the butchers. It is important to 
have lean beef, and that it should be as freshly killed as may 
be. Put down the beef, water, salt, and spices. Bring gently 
to a boil. Skim well. Set back where it will keep on a 
gentle, but very steady boil. After 2 hours, when the soup 
is well skimmed, add the vegetables, and continue to boil for 
5 or 6 hours. The essentials for making good, strong, tasty 
broth, are two, namely : Never let it cease boiling ; and never, 
under any circumstance, add water to your soup during the 
cooking. Observe these rules most strictly. This receipt 
will give you an excellent soup for family use. If you wish 
to have it perfectly clear, refer to the receipt for Clearing 
Soups. If you will strain off the broth when done, through 
a fine sieve, and set it away in a cool place, the next day, 
after removing the fat, you will be able to pour off carefully 
the top, leaving all the sediment to be used in thick soups ; 
in which case you can generally dispense with the clearing 
process, which, unless done by the use of raw beef (an extra 
expense), destroys the nutritious quality of your broth. 

In France, the day the Pot-au-feu is freshly made, it is 
served with small squares of dry bread put in the tureen, 
and the hot soup thrown over them at the moment of serv- 
ing ; the vegetables, which have been boiled in the broth, 
are handed around on a separate dish. Cabbage may be 
added to the above receipt, with great benefit to the flavor, 
but it prevents the broth from keeping very long — otherwise 
this Pot-au-feu can be set on the ice, and kept for several 



6 GOOD-LIVING. 

days in winter. This broth does not require coloring if 
boiled long enough. 

In Italy, grated cheese is served with the above, each guest 
taking one teaspoonful in his soup-plate. Any cooked meat 
added to the soup-pot will make the broth less clear. 

The beef cooked in the broth becomes the French 
Bouilli (see receipt). In this case, it should weigh at least 
six pounds, cooked in the above proportions. 

COLORING FOR SOUPS. 

An excellent preparation which can be kept on hand for 
coloring soups, is the following : 

Take an earthen jar ; fill it to the top, first with a layer of 
onions, one whole clove stuck in each, then a layer of soft 
sugar, a small piece of butter, and so on until the jar is filled. 
Put this into the oven overnight, when the fire is allowed to go 
out. Repeat this every night until the onions have cooked 
down, and a dark syrup is formed. Two nights may be suf- 
ficient, according to the fire. Put your jar aside, and use a 
few drops at a time to color soups, gravies, etc. There are 
few simpler or more satisfactory receipts than this ; but the 
best color for soups is that produced by good materials and 
long boiling. 

CLEARING SOUPS. 

Never use whites of eggs for the purpose, unless as a mat- 
ter of economy and convenience, as this process injures the 
delicacy of the flavor. But if preferred, do so in the follow- 
ing manner : Stir into the cold soup, I or more whites of 
eggs, according to the quantity to be clarified ; crush the 
shells and add to the soup. Bring to a boil ; then boil 
rapidly for 10 minutes. Stand the kettle on the hearth for 
10 minutes, then strain through a flannel bag. The white of 
I egg will suffice for about 3 pints of broth. 

The following is recommended as being the better method : 



AMBER CONSOMME. 7 

To 2 quarts of stock, allow f- of a pound of lean beef, chopped 
fine. Put it into a stewpan with the stock and some of its 
vegetables. Stir until it begins to boil. Draw to side of the 
range and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Then strain twice 
through a fine cloth. If. clear soups are much used in your 
household, one or two bags made of flannel, which has been 
washed frequently until well shrunken, will be found very 
useful. Attach a tape to each side of the bag, and suspend 
it by them to two chairs. Place a bowl under to catch the 
soup. T.his will save much trouble, and make your stock of 
the clearest. (See Gilt-edged Bouillon.) 

AMBER CONSOMME. 

CONSOMME DORE. 

1 large soup bone, 1 chicken, cleaned, 

1 slice of ham, 1 onion, 

2 sprigs of parsley, % small carrot, 
]4 small parsnip, % head of celery, 

3 cloves, 1 gallon of water, 

Salt and pepper, 2 eggs, whites and shells. 

Put the chicken, beef, and ham into a pot with the cold 
water, and boil slowly for 5 hours, covered. Fry the onion 
in a little butter or drippings, and add it and all the vegeta- 
bles and all the seasonings. Boil 2 hours longer. Strain 
into an earthen bowl, and set away overnight. Next day 
remove the fat from the top ; take out the jelly, leaving the 
thickest part of the sediment (which will do to put into a 
thick soup) ; mix in the shells and whites of eggs. Boil 
quickly for 10 minutes ; then place the kettle on the hearth 
for 10 minutes to settle. Pour the soup through the jelly- 
bag. It should come out perfectly clear, of a very pretty 
golden brown color. Do not squeeze the bag. If the soup is 
not clear, pass it through again until clear. Use the brightest 
and cleanest of kettles, and scald your sieve each time you 
use it, or the particles will wash off again into the soup. 
Serve for dinner-parties, luncheons, etc. Garnish to taste. 
Do not use any artificial coloring. 



8 GOOD-LIVING. 

BROTH MADE IN ONE HOUR. 

BOUILLON FAIT EN UNE HEURE. 

I lb. of beef, Small piece of fat pork, chopped, 

I carrot, cut fine, 2 gills of cold water, 

i onion, " " I pint of boiling water. 

Put all except the boiling water into a stewpan. Stew 
15 minutes, until it begins to cling to the sides. Then add 
the boiling water. Boil 45 minutes. Strain, squeezing the 
meat well. Season with pepper, salt, and celery-salt. Serve. 

ANOTHER HASTY BROTH 

Is made by cutting vegetables fine, frying in butter, add- 
ing boiling water enough for the soup ; salt and pepper, and 
enough of Liebig's Extract to give color and strength. 
When one is disappointed by the butcher, this is a resource 
not to be despised. 

CHICKEN CONSOMME. 

CONSOMME DE VOLAILLE. 

One old fowl, cut in pieces, I stick of celery, 

2 quarts of cold water, I onion, 

1 carrot, Salt and pepper. 
1 turnip, 

Simmer gently, chicken, salt and water, until the scum 
rises. Skim. Add other ingredients. Boil gently 2 hours. 
Skim all fat and serve. Or, better still, set aside until next 
day, then all grease may be more thoroughly removed. For 
invalids, serve with slices of toast. The chicken will serve 
for many receipts. (See Chicken Croquettes, Chicken Salad, 
etc., etc.) 

CONSOMME A LA ROY ALE. 

Yolks of 6 eggs, Salt and pepper. 

Their bulk of cream, 

Mix the well-beaten yolks with a little more than their 
bulk of cream or rich milk. Add salt and pepper. Pour it 



GERMAN NOODLE SOUP. 9 

into a small tin or earthen dish 1 or 2 inches deep, with 
straight sides ; place this in a second dish in which there is a 
little boiling water, and bake in so moderate an oven that it 
will neither bubble nor brown. Remove it from the oven 
just as soon as it becomes firm. Let it get perfectly cold, 
then cut it in £-inch slices, and these again into fancy 
shapes with a vegetable cutter. Lay them in the tureen and 
pour the clear, hot Consomme very gently over them. Allow 
2 gills of Consomm6, or Gilt-edged Bouillon (see receipts) 
for each person. 

CONSOMME WITH MACARONI. 

POTAGE AU MACARONI. 
% lb. of macaroni, 2 quarts of Broth, or Consomme. 

Boil the macaroni, broken in 2-inch lengths, in salted 
boiling water until almost tender — that is 10 or 15 min- 
utes ; drain very thoroughly and drop into boiling broth 10 
minutes before serving. It must be very tender, but not 
break. Serve with Parmesan cheese, grated. 

TAPIOCA SOUP. 

POTAGE AU TAPIOCA. 

4 oz. of tapioca, 3 pints of Broth. 

Sprinkle the tapioca (which is best when previously soaked 
for a few hours) into the boiling soup. Stir frequently. It 
will require about 40 minutes ; perhaps less, if soaked before- 
hand. 

GERMAN NOODLE SOUP. 

POTAGE DE NOUILLES, I. 

Prepare the Noodles (see receipt) ; add them to boiling 
Consomme (see receipt). Boil 1 5 minutes. Serve. Allow 2 
gills of consomme per person. 



10 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRENCH NOODLE SOUR 

POTAGE DE NOUILLES, II. 

Follow the directions given above, using French Noodles 
(see receipt), and cooking them 30 minutes. 

SWEDISH NOODLE SOUP. 

POTAGE DE NOUILLES, III. 

Prepare the Consomme' as above, adding, at the moment of 
serving, Swedish Noodles (see receipts). , 

CONSOMME WITH POACHED EGGS. 

CONSOMME AUX CEUFS POCHES. 
6 eggs, 3 pints of Consomme, or Gilt-edged Bouillon. 

Drop the eggs, one by one, into boiling salted water. A 
frying-pan is best for the purpose. One tablespoonful of 
vinegar may be added to the water. When the eggs are firm, 
carefully remove with a spoon or perforated skimmer ; lay in 
cold water for a moment while you trim the edges evenly ; 
transfer to the tureen ; pour the boiling soup very gently into 
the tureen and serve. The allowance is 1 egg and 2 gills 
of consomme^ per person. 

N.B. — Do not allow the water to boil when once the eggs 
are in it, but draw the pan to one side of the range and 
cook rather slowly until firm. The jumping of the boiling 
water makes the edges of the eggs ragged. 

SAGO SOUP. 

POTAGE AU SAGOU. 
2 oz. of sago, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme. 

Wash well and drop into boiling broth. Boil 1 hour, 
stirring occasionally. 

N.B. — This is improved by soaking the sago overnight, 
draining, and then boiling in the soup. In this case, less 
time is required in cooking. 



RICE SOUP. II 

ARROWROOT SOUP. 

4 teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme. 

Rub the arrowroot to a smooth paste with a little of the 
cold broth ; stir it into the boiling broth and continue stirring 
for 20 minutes, until perfectly transparent. 

This excellent addition to clear soup is not sufficiently used 
or appreciated. 

VERMICELLI SOUP. 

CONSOMME OU POTAGE AU VERMICELLE. 

1 oz. of vermicelli to each person, 2 gills of Broth or Consomme to each 

person. 

Break the vermicelli in pieces. Boil until nearly cooked in 
boiling water and salt. This will require about 15 minutes. 
Add it, when well drained, to the boiling broth. Boil until 
perfectly tender, 20 or 25 minutes in all. Serve. 

SOUP WITH ITALIAN PASTES. 

CONSOMME OU POTAGE AUX PATES D'lTALIE. 

Same rule and proportions as above. The pastes may 
require a little longer to cook. 

RICE SOUP. 

SOUPE AU RIZ. 

4 heaping tablespoons of rice, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme. 

Wash the rice in 3 waters. Rub it dry. Put it in a 
saucepan with 1 pint of cold broth. When swelled and 
heated, add another pint of boiling broth, and finally the rest 
of the boiling broth, when the rice is tender. This will muddy 
the soup slightly. Rice takes about 22 minutes from the 
moment when it breaks into a boil. 



12 GOOD-LIVING. 

FARINA SOUP. 

POTAGE A LA SEMOULE. 
2 oz. of farina, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme. 

To the boiling broth add the farina gradually, stirring con- 
stantly with a wooden spoon. Boil 25 minutes and serve. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

POTAGE A LA JULIENNE. 

Observe the relative proportions of the following vege- 
tables : 

X lb. of carrot, 2 oz. of leek, 

% lb. of turnip, 2 oz. of onion. 

y z oz. of celery, 

Cut in thin, long shreds, and throw into a bowl of cold 
water as you cut them ; then drain. Fry in butter until 
golden brown ; drain off the butter and add a little stock 
to cover ; let it nearly boil ; then add this to the amount of 
stock or broth required and simmer gently for 2 hours. 
Allow 2 gills of broth per person. You may add either 
asparagus-tips, fresh young peas, or lettuce cut into narrow 
strips ; but these must be boiled apart until tender in weak 
stock or plain water, then added to the soup. Serve with 
the vegetables. 

POTAGE CROUTE-AU-POT. 

1 turnip, cut fine, 8 pieces of dried toast or % rolls, 

1 carrot, " " 2 quarts of good Consomme. 

I stick of celery, cut fine, 

Parboil the vegetables in salted boiling water. When ten- 
der, drain well and add them to 1^ quarts of boiling consomme ; 
simmer until very tender. Meanwhile, put the toasts into 
a saucepan with enough strong consomme' (reduced is even 
better) to cover them. Simmer gently until the toasts have 



CALF'S-HEAD SOUP. 1 3 

absorbed all the consomme and begin to dry up ; then add 
a little hot consomme^ to detach them from the saucepan. 
Lay them in a tureen and pour the soup with vegetables 
very gently over them. Serve immediately, before the 
toasts begin to go to pieces. This is one of the most pop- 
ular and excellent of the French soups. 

N. B. — Follow the directions for the toasts very carefully. 

CALF'S-HEAD SOUP. 

1 calf's head, 1 knuckle of veal, 

6 onions, sliced, Pepper and salt, 

1 teaspoon of ground allspice, Butter, 

% " " " cloves, Lemon and sherry. 

FOR THE BALLS. 

Brains of the head, I onion, chopped, 

1 tablespoon of parsley, chopped, Cracker-dust. 

Put the head (well-cleaned, as directed in receipt for Mock- 
Turtle Soup No. I.) and knuckle of veal into a large soup- 
kettle f full of cold water. Reserve the brains to prepare 
later. Add to the soup-kettle the onions and simmer gently 
until the veal-knuckle is perfectly cooked and tender, but not 
in pieces. Remove this from the pot and set aside to use 
(see Browned Knuckle of Veal). Let the calf's head con- 
tinue to boil until the meat begins to fall from the bones ; 
then take it out. Remove all the bones and the eyes. 
Skin the tongue ; cut it and all the meat into small pieces. 
Season with salt, pepper, and the spices. Strain the soup ; 
return to the fire and thicken with flour that has been 
browned over the fire with a little butter, allowing about 2 
tablespoonfuls of flour to 1 quart of soup. Stir and boil 
up. Add the meat ; bring it to a boil, then pour all into a 
bowl and set away until next day. 

To make the balls, parboil the brains, chop the onion and 
parsley, and stir all together with a knife. Then make them 
up into small balls, with just enough of the same browned 
flour to make them sufficiently solid to fry. Dip them in 



14 GOOD-LIVING. 

cracker-dust ; fry in butter until brown, and set away until 
required. 

Next day, skim the fat from the top of the soup, put it on 
the fire and bring it to a boil. Put the balls into the tureen, 
pour the boiling soup gently over them and serve. Each 
guest adds lemon-juice and sherry to his taste, for which 
purpose, cut the lemon into small sections and hand it with 
the soup. This is an old-fashioned Philadelphia receipt and 
highly recommended. 

MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. I. 

SOUPE A LA TORTUE I. 

I calf's head, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

I lb. of calf's liver, 3 quarts of cold water, 

1 calf's heart, 4 even tablespoons of flour, 

I bay-leaf, I " " mushroom catsup, 

1 carrot, 1 " " Worcestershire sauce, 

1 onion, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 

12 cloves, 1 lemon, 

1 turnip, Salt and pepper to taste, 

Bunch of soup herbs, I gill of sherry. 

Have the butcher crack the head ; remove the brains. 
Wash the head thoroughly in cold water. Pour boiling 
water through the nose and throat-passages until perfectly 
clean. Scrape out and wash very carefully the ears. Then 
rinse again in cold water. The head must be perfectly sweet 
and clean before putting it down to cook. Put it in a kettle 
with the cold water ; put the kettle over a moderate fire. 
When it comes to a good boil, skim. After 15 minutes, 
skim again. Let it simmer, not boil hard, until the meat is 
quite tender, which will be in about 2 hours. Remove 
the head ; take the meat from the bones, skin the tongue 
and set away to cool. Return the bones to the kettle with 
the vegetables, cleaned and sliced, also the spices, liver, and 
herbs. Simmer gently again for 2 hours. Strain and set 
away overnight. Set aside the liver and heart to cool with 
the other meat. Next day remove the fat from the soup. 



MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. 1 5 

Put the butter in a saucepan ; when melted, add the flour 
and stir until nicely browned (not burned) ; then add the 
boiling soup by degrees, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 
5 minutes. Cut the meat of the head into dice, also half 
the liver ; add them to the soup ; bring to a boil once. Re- 
move the saucepan from the fire, and add the catsups, salt, 
pepper, and wine. Have the eggs and lemon sliced in the 
tureen, pour the soup over them and serve. If you wish to 
add force-meat balls, see receipt for same. ' 

N.B. — If the head is a large one, half of the meat will be 
sufficient to cut up. You can reserve, then, the tongue 
with the brains to make another dish. 

MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. II. 

SOUPE A LA TORTUE II. 

i calf's head, 4 calf's feet, 

1 gallon of cold water, 4 onions, 

2 carrots, 2 sticks of celery, 
Bunch of soup herbs, 1^ gills of sherry, 
Juice of one lemon, Salt and cayenne. 

Take the head with skin on ; wash thoroughly and clean 
as directed for Mock-Turtle Soup No. I. ; remove brains and 
tongue, which reserve for separate dish. Put the head and 
calf's feet into a soup-kettle with the cold water. Remove the 
scum as it rises and add the vegetables and herbs. When 
boiled, until the flesh leaves the bones easily (about 3 hours), 
take out the best parts and press them between 2 dishes 
until cold. Remove the bones from the soup-kettle, leaving 
the coarser parts of the meat. Simmer for 3 hours. Strain ; 
when cold, skim thoroughly. 

Next day, cut the pressed meat into dice, and prepare Egg- 
balls (as per receipt) as garnish for the soup. Flavor the 
soup with the sherry and plenty of cayenne and lemon-juice. 
Simmer with the meat in for 30 minutes. If egg-balls are 
used, add them only a minute before serving. 



l6 GOOD-LIVING. 

A SAVORY SOUP. 

SOUPE DE LA BONNE MENAGERE. 

2 large onions, ] 3 or 4 sticks of celery, cut fine, 

2 leeks, . _ j r • j ■ Bones of roasted beef, veal, or chicken, 

> cut fine and fried in 

1 carrot, butter. Cornstarch (about 1 teaspoonful), 

I turnip, Bunch of parsley, 

5 raw tomatoes or 1 large cup of stewed, Sprig of thyme, 

Handful of cabbage, cut fine, Salt and pepper. 

Fry the vegetables as directed. When brown, add a few- 
spoonfuls of boiling water, and stew for 15 or 20 minutes. 
Now put them into the soup-kettle with the other ingredients 
(reserving the cornstarch) ; add 2 quarts of boiling water. 
Any good bones may be added or good bits of meat ; the 
latter should be cut fine. Cover and boil about 4 hours. 
Take out the bones and any stems of thyme or parsley. 
Stir in the cornstarch, blended with very little cold water ; 
boil 2 or 3 minutes until of the consistency of cream. When 
the larder is low this will be found to be a most excellent 
soup, far more tasty than many on which are lavished un- 
limited materials. 

N.B. — 1 cupful of mashed potato may be used instead 
of the cornstarch. 

ECONOMICAL SOUP {ENGLISH RECEIPT). 

% lb. of solid, lean meat, cut in dice, 2 oz. of drippings, 

% lb. of onions, cut in pieces, 2 oz. of salt, 

% lb. of turnips, " " " ^ oz. of brown sugar, 

2 oz. of leeks, " " " 6 quarts of water, 

3 oz. of celery, " " " j£ lb. rice or pearl barley. 

Put in a stewpan with the drippings, meat, onions, and 
sugar ; stir until fried a light brown. Then add turnips, 
celery, leeks ; stir for 10 minutes ; add 1 quart of cold water 
and the rice, and let it heat. To this put 5 quarts of boiling 
water ; stir. Simmer 5 hours. Skim when the scum rises. 
Season to taste and serve. 



BEEF AND OKRA SOUP. 1 7 

LETTUCE SOUP. 

POTAGE AUX LAITUES. 
i large head of lettuce, Pepper and salt, 

Butter the size of a walnut, Pinch of sugar, 

30 drops of Tarragon vinegar, 1 egg, 

1 gill of cream, Dice of stale bread, 

1 teaspoon of flour, 3 pints of broth or water for 6 persons. 

Chop up the lettuce, and stew it with a lump of butter, 
pinch of sugar, and 30 drops of Tarragon vinegar. Keep 
stirring and do not let it burn. Add the flour, pepper, and 
salt. Break in an egg, which stir well ; pour on some weak 
broth (allowing 2 gills per person). Lay dice of bread in the 
tureen. Add the cream to the soup just before you pour 
the boiling soup over the bread. Serve. 

RUSSIAN SOUP. 
POTAGE A LA RUSSE. 

1 Spanish onion, cut in shreds, Bunch of herbs, powdered, 

1 moderate-sized white cabbage, 3 pints of stock for 6 persons, 

cut in shreds, 

Fry the onions and cabbage in butter, being careful not 
to burn ; drain and add them to the stock, with 1 table- 
spoonful of flour blended with cold water. Boil, stirring oc- 
casionally, until the vegetables are tender. Add a squeeze 
of lemon-juice, and serve with small balls made as follows : 

2 oz. of beef, chopped very fine, 1 egg, 

2 oz. of suet, " " " Salt and pepper. 

Fry in butter ; place in the tureen ; pour the soup over 
them and serve. 

BEEF AND OKRA SOUP. 

1 lb. of beef without fat or bone, % lb. of butter, 
4 quarts of cold water, 1 onion, sliced, 

2 cups of chopped okra, Salt and pepper. 

Cut the beef in small pieces ; season with pepper and salt ; 
fry it in the soup-kettle with the onion and butter until very 
brown. Add the cold water, and simmer 1 hour ; then add 
the okra, and simmer gently for 3 or 4 hours longer. 



1 8 GOOD-LIVING. 



WHITE SOUP. 



Knuckle of veal, Salt and pepper, 

Pinch of powdered mace, i cup of vermicelli, 

i oz. of butter, i cup of cream, 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Put the veal into a soup-kettle and cover it with cold 
water. When it comes to a boil, skim thoroughly. Simmer, 
closely covered, 2\ hours. Then strain it. Add seasonings 
and the vermicelli ; boil slowly about 1 5 minutes ; if the ver- 
micelli is quite tender then, push the pot back where the 
boiling will cease. Add the butter. Beat the yolks of eggs 
in the tureen with the cream, and pour the boiling soup slow- 
ly over them, stirring quickly. Serve. 

NORMANDY SOUP. 

1 knuckle of veal, 4 quarts of cold water, 

1 quart of white button onions, 1 quart of cream, 

j£ a baker's small loaf, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

Salt and pepper to taste, 2 " " flour. 

Put the veal in a kettle with the onions and water. Sim- 
mer gently 2 hours. Add the bread cut in slices. Simmer 
gently 2 hours longer. Remove the bone and press the 
remaining ingredients all through a sieve. Return the soup 
to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together until 
smooth ; stir this into the boiling soup and continue to stir 
until it thickens. Add the cream brought almost to a boil ; 
add salt and pepper, and serve. 

SOUP A LA PEINE NO. I. 

SOUPE A LA REINE. I. 

1% lbs. of chicken, % lb. of rice, 

l / 2 pint of cream, Salt and pepper, 

i}i quarts of white (veal) stock, ]/ 2 a blade of mace, 

1 sprig of thyme, 1 shallot (or 1 clove of garlic), 

4 sprigs of parsley. 

Clean and roast the chicken. When cold, cut off the 
meat. Put the bones into the white stock with seasonings 
and well-washed rice. Boil until the rice is perfectly tender 



SCOTCH BROTH. 19 

(35 minutes). Meanwhile, chop the chicken fine and pound 
it in a mortar ; then pass it through a sieve or colander, 
helping the process by moistening from time to time with 
some of the stock. Strain the remainder of the stock, 
pressing the rice through the sieve. Half an hour before 
dinner, add the chicken to the stock and heat. Do not let 
it boil. Just before serving, add the warmed cream, salt, 
and pepper. 

SOUP A LA REINE NO. II. 

SOUPE A LA REINE. II. 

1 large chicken, 1 gill of cream, 

% lb. of boiled rice, Salt and pepper, 

2 quarts of cold water. 

Roast the chicken ; remove all the meat from the bones. 
Chop and pound it to a pulp with the rice. Put the bones, 
broken, and the skin into 2 quarts of cold water and let it 
simmer gently for about 2 hours, until it makes a weak 
broth. Strain it and add it to the chicken and rice. Now 
press this all through a sieve, and set aside until required. 
Remove the fat from the top when cold ; heat the soup over 
boiling water without actually boiling it, and, just before 
serving, add the cream, heated, but not boiling. Season 
with pepper and salt. 

SCOTCH BROTH. 

A scrag of mutton, 1 pint of water to 1 lb. of mutton, 

1 teaspoon of salt, i]4 oz. of pearl barley to each qt., 

2 carrots cut in dice, 1 pint of water for the pot, 
1 leek, sliced, 1 small cabbage, shredded, 
Chopped parsley, 1 turnip cut in dice. 

Trim off all superfluous fat from the mutton ; cut the 
meat into small dice. Put it into a stewpan with 1 pint of 
cold water to each lb. of meat and 1 pint extra. Add the 
salt and barley in the above proportions. Bring it to a boil, 
and skim. Then add the cabbage, carrots, and leek. Bring 
to a boil, then simmer i£ hours. Add the turnip. Simmer 
30 minutes. Remove all pieces of bone ; pour into the 



20 GOOD-LIVING. 

tureen ; sprinkle chopped parsley over the top, adding salt 
and pepper if necessary. Serve. 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

2 ox-tails, Bunch of soup herbs, 

1 large onion, A small slice of salt pork, 

2 carrots, I stick of celery, or I teaspoon of seed, 
Parsley, 4 quarts of boiling water, 

3 whole cloves, Salt and pepper. 

Cut the tails at the joints, about 2 inches long ; slice the 
vegetables ; mince the pork. Put the pork into a stewpan ; 
when hot, add the onion. Fry until they begin to color, 
then add the tails. Let them fry from 5 to 8 minutes, 
browning on all sides. Cut each joint to the bone, that the 
juice may run out in boiling. Put all into the soup-kettle, 
adding the boiling water. Simmer gently but steadily about 
4 hours ; then add the other vegetables with the cloves 
stuck into a piece of onion. Add seasoning. When the 
vegetables are cooked, the soup is ready to serve. Strain it 
through the finest strainer. Serve 1 joint and 2 gills of soup 
for each person. 

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 

1 chicken cut in pieces, 4 quarts of cold water, 

3 or 4 whole cloves, Parsley, 

1 knuckle of veal (if available), Salt and pepper, 

Butter, size of a walnut, 1 tablespoon of flour, 

3 tablespoons of boiled rice, 1 teaspoon of curry-powder, 

1 onion cut fine, 1 apple pared, cored, and cut in small dice, 

1 carrot " " I stick of celery cut in pieces. 

Put the chicken, some of the onion, carrot, and celery, 
with the knuckle of veal (or any piece of veal or veal bones), 
into the kettle with the cold water. Add the cloves and 
parsley, and boil until the chicken is nearly done (about 
1 hour). Remove the pieces of chicken and trim them 
neatly, to serve in the soup. Let the veal continue to 
simmer for 3 hours. Now fry the remainder of the onion, 
carrot, and celery in the butter. When they begin to brown 
well, add the flour ; stir it for 1 minute or 2 until browned, 



CHICKEN GUMBO FILE*. 21 

then add the curry-powder, veal-broth, and pieces of chicken. 
Simmer gently for I hour. Half an hour before dinner, 
strain and skim the soup and return it to the fire with the 
pieces of chicken, apple, and rice. When hot, serve. The 
chicken should not be too young. A rabbit may be substi- 
tuted for the chicken. 

GIB LET SOUP. 

The giblets, livers, etc. , of 2 turkeys i hard-boiled yolk of egg per person. 

or 4 chickens, I leaf of sage, 

I onion cut fine, Butter, the size of an egg, 

1 carrot " " 2 tablespoons of wine, 
*4, turnip " " i tablespoon of flour, 

2 cups of broth (chicken preferred), Parsley, 
Lemon-juice, Salt and pepper, 

3 quarts of boiling water or broth. 

Put the butter in the stewpan with the onion. When 
beginning to brown, add all vegetables, giblets, etc., and 
flour. Fry until the flour browns, but does not burn. Then 
slit the giblets, etc., with a knife, that the juices may run out 
in boiling, and put all into the soup-kettle with pepper, salt, 
sage, parsley, and 3 quarts of water or stock. Add any 
bones or lean meat, cooked or raw, that you may have, 
chicken being best. Simmer for 5 hours. Strain. Mash 1 
liver fine ; add it to the broth. Season with more salt and 
pepper, lemon-juice to taste, and 2 tablespoonfuls of madeira 
or port. If not thick enough, add 1 teaspoon of corn-starch 
blended with a very little cold water ; boil 3 minutes. Have 
ready in the tureen 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg for each 
person. Pour in the hot soup and serve. 

CHICKEN GUMBO FILE. 

GOMBO FILE. 

1 large fowl, 4 quarts of boiling water, 

2 oz. butter, 1 oz. of lardf 
2 oz. of chopped onion, 25 oysters, 
% pint of ' ' okra, Flour, 

Cayenne and salt, }£ lb. of ham cut in dice. 

yi, teaspoon of file powder. 

N. B. — The "file powder" made of sassafras -buds is 



22 GOOD-LIVING. 

very generally used in New Orleans, and is obtainable, it is 
said, at herb shops or of first-class grocers. 

Clean and cut the fowl in pieces ; season with pepper and 
salt ; dredge with flour ; put it into the kettle with the butter, 
lard, and onion ; fry until quite brown, then add the water. 
Cover the pot and allow it to simmer, not boil, for 2 hours. 
Add the oysters and okra, and simmer gently 30 minutes 
longer. Just before serving, add the fil6 powder and 
cayenne. N. B. — Do not attempt to add the sassafras 
while the soup is on the fire ; the result of so doing would be 
to precipitate the powder to the bottom of the pot. Serve. 

OKRA GUMBO. 

GOMBO FEVI. 

8 large, solid tomatoes, skinned and ^ cup of rice, well-washed, 

cut up, X lb. chopped ham (may be omitted 

50 okras, stemmed and cut in ^ inch for maigre soup), 

pieces, Pepper to taste (4 drops of Tabasco 

2 large red onions, chopped (if white preferred), 

use 3), 1 tablespoon of butter, 

y 2 sweet-pepper, chopped, Salt, 

1 cup of broth or boiling water. 

Stew the onion for a few minutes in the butter. Do not 
brown it. Add the above ingredients and stew very gently, 
stirring frequently to prevent the rice scorching. After 20 
to 30 minutes, add a cup of broth or boiling water. (A great 
improvement upon this, is to use the liquor of tomatoes 
which have already been stewed. This imparts a richness of 
flavor superior to either the broth or water.) Stew from 4 to 
6 hours, very gently. Caution : Do not leave it on too hot 
a fire or it will scorch ; stir frequently to prevent same. 
The soup will be very thick ; should you prefer it thinner, 
add more broth or tomato-juice as above. This dish is much 
better the second day, as indeed are most dishes into the 
composition of which there enter a variety of ingredients. 
Re-heat it in a china-lined saucepan, if necessary, and serve. 



TOMATO SOUP NO. I. 23 

OYSTER GUMBO. 

GOMBO AUX HUITRES. 

To the receipt for Okra Gumbo, add 50 oysters, which 
have been thoroughly dried and put into a hot pan with 
melted butter and tossed until slightly browned. This 
requires a very hot frying-pan and takes several minutes to 
dry the oysters out sufficiently to brown them. 

CRAB GUMBO NO. I. 

GOMBO AUX CRABES. I. 

To the receipt for Okra Gumbo, add soft-shelled crabs 
fried in butter and cut in quarters or halves, according to 
their size. Be careful to remove the sand-bags before cook- 
ing. Allow 2 pieces of crab to each person. 

CHICKEN GUMBO. 

Proceed exactly as for Okra Gumbo, using chicken- 
broth instead of other liquid to thin the soup. Add dice of 
the chicken which was used for the broth. These should be 
added to the soup only a few minutes before serving, that 
they may not become unsightly or go to pieces. 

TOM A TO SOUP NO. I. 

PUREE DE TOMATES. 

1 quart of well-flavored broth, Sprig of thyme, 

1 quart of stewed tomatoes, % cup of rice, well-washed, 

Salt, pepper, Sugar to taste. 

Put all together and boil until the rice becomes very soft 
and imparts a creamy consistency to the soup, which will 
take about \\ hours. Strain and serve with Croutons (see 
receipt). Excellent. 



24 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO MA TO AND MA C A RON I SOUP. 

PUREE DE TOMATES AU MACARONI. 

Make a Tomato Soup No. I, 
small macaroni cut in inch pieces, and boiled in salted 
boiling water for 25 minutes. Simmer 5 minutes and serve. 

TOMATO SOUP WITH QUENELLES. 

PUREE DE TOMATES AUX QUENELLES. 

To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. 1, add at the moment 
of serving ^ a pint or more of Chicken or Veal Quenelles 
(see receipts). 

TOMATO SOUP WITH NOODLES. 

PUREE DE TOMATES AUX NOUILLES. 

To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. I, add at the 
moment of serving £ a pint of Swedish Noodles (see 
receipt). 

OF PUREES IN GENERAL. 

As this term is used in three senses, it is necessary to de- 
fine what is meant by each. All purees are made by boiling 
or stewing vegetables in broth or water, passing the mixture, 
when cooked, through a sieve. 

If it is to be used as a vegetable, it should be almost solid, 
as, for instance, puree of potatoes, which is nothing more nor 
less than soft mashed potatoes. 

If it is to be used as soup, the pulp, prepared as above, is 
diluted with stock, milk, or water to the consistency of thick 
cream, as pease soup. 

If it is to be used as sauce, the consistency varies with the 
material employed, but may be described, as a rule, as being 
thinner than the vegetable and thicker than the soup, as 
tomato sauce. Taste and experience must regulate this. 

Soup purees do not keep, usually, more than twelve hours 
in moderately-warm weather, and not much longer in winter. 






ASPARAGUS SOUP. 2$ 

Cream is an important addition to these, as are also eggs and 
butter, to impart smoothness and richness. (See receipt for 
Liaison of Eggs and Cream.) 

Soups of this kind may be made of : 



Carrots, 


Barley, 


Onions, 


Rice, 


Turnips, 


Rice and tomatoes, 


Jerusalem artichokes, 


Sorrel, 


Green peas, 


Asparagus, 


Dried peas, 


Celery, 


Beans — black, white, or red, 


Potatoes, 


Lentils, 


Lima beans. 



Besides combinations of : 

Carrots, turnips, and onions, Potatoes and onions, 

Limas and tomatoes, Turnips, potatoes, onions, etc. 

Always serve with Croutons (see receipt). 



ASPARAGUS SOUP. 

CREME D'ASPERGES. 

30 spears of asparagus, • }4 teaspoon of butter, 

3 tablespoons of cream, Salt and pepper, 

3 pints of stock (or milk), 1 teaspoon of flour. 

Cut the points from the asparagus about \ an inch long ; 
cook the rest in boiling water until perfectly tender ; drain ; 
rub the pulp through a colander ; add a little salt. Bring 
the stock to a boil. Blend together the butter and flour ; 
stir them into the boiling stock. Add the asparagus pulp 
and boil about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, 
boil the tips separately in boiling water for about 1 5 min- 
utes, until tender. Drain perfectly, and place them in the 
tureen. Stir the cream into the soup and pour it immedi- 
ately into the tureen. It must not boil after the cream is 
added. This soup may be colored with 1 teaspoonful of 
spinach-juice, but this is not obligatory. Serve without 
croutons, as the tips are sufficient garnish. 



26 GOOD-LIVING. 

CRECY SOUP NO. I. 

POTAGE A LA CRECY. I. 

4 carrots (the redder the better), cut fine, Sprig of thyme, 

2 large onions, cut fine, Bunch of parsley, 

1 turnip, " 3 cloves, 

2 sticks of celery, " Salt and pepper, 
Butter, size of an egg, I teaspoon of corn-starch, 
I pint of new milk, Sugar to taste. 

Having cleaned and cut up the vegetables, put them into 
a frying-pan with the butter (or part sweet drippings) and 
sugar. Fry until they begin to brown slightly ; then pour 
in a few tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Simmer io min- 
utes ; then turn all into the soup-kettle, adding all the other 
ingredients except the corn-starch and milk ; add about I 
quart of boiling water ; cover and simmer gently for about 
2 hours ; the vegetables must be perfectly soft. Mash all 
through a sieve. Return to the fire with the milk. There 
should now be 2 quarts in all. When boiling, stir in the 
corn-starch blended with a very little cold water or milk. 
Boil 2 or 3 minutes, and serve immediately with Croutons 
(see receipt). N. B. — The carrots must be mashed very fine. 

CRECY SOUP NO. II. 

POTAGE A LA CRECY. II. 

4 very red carrots, Salt and pepper, 

2 potatoes, 2 sticks of celery, 

2 onions, Butter, size of a walnut. 

Boil the vegetables perfectly tender in 3 pints of water. 
When soft, mash them through a sieve. Return to the fire 
and boil. Add the butter. When boiling, add 1 teaspoon- 
ful of corn-starch blended with a very little cold water ; stir 
and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Serve with Croutons (see receipt). 
This is further improved by the addition of Liaison (see 
receipt). 



RICE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. 2? 

POTATO SOUP. 

POTAGE PARMENTIER. 

6 or 8 potatoes, Pinch of grated nutmeg, 

2 onions, cut in pieces, i cup of cream or rich milk, 

Pepper and salt, Butter, size of a walnut. 

Peel the potatoes and put them into a saucepan with the 
onions and about 3 pints of cold water. Bring to a boil. In 
about 35 minutes, when the vegetables are very tender, pass 
the whole through a sieve. Return to the fire. Add season- 
ings and butter. When boiling, add the cream and serve 
immediately with Croutons (see receipt). 

The addition to the above of liaison of cream and 
eggs is a further improvement. For variations of the above, 
see Of Purees in General. 

GREEN-PEA SOUP. 

POTAGE A LA D'ARTOIS. 

1 quart of young green peas, 2 quarts of good stock, 
Bunch of parsley, Pepper, 

2 young onions, Salt. 

Boil the peas until quite tender in boiling water with the 
onions cut fine, and the parsley. This will require about 25 
minutes. Drain. Rub all through a coarse sieve ; add them 
to the boiling stock. Do not boil after the peas are added. 
Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with small Crou- 
tons (see receipt). If required to be kept hot, stand it in a 
kettle of boiling water (bain-marie). 

RICE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT 

RIZ AU MAIGRE. 

4 heaping tablespoons of rice, 2 yolks of eggs, 

3 pints of water, Pepper, 
Butter, size of a walnut, Salt. 

Wash the rice in 3 waters. Rub dry. Put it in a sauce- 
pan with 1 pint of cold water. When swelled, add 1 pint of 



28 GOOD-LIVING. 

boiling water; and when quite tender, the remaining pint of 
boiling water. Add pepper and salt. Rub up the yolks of 
eggs with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. When smooth, 
stir in carefully a few spoonfuls of the boiling rice-water ; 
then pour the eggs and cream into the saucepan, stirring 
very briskly. Draw aside and stir for 2 or 3 minutes. Do 
not allow the soup to boil when once the eggs are added. 

CREME DE RIZ. 

Prepare as above, rubbing the rice through a sieve. Then 
add eggs and cream. 

MILK SOUP. 

SOUPE AU LAIT. 

I quart of milk, Salt and sugar to taste, 

4 yolks of eggs, Dice of stale bread. 

Put the dried crusts into the soup-tureen. Bring the 
milk to a boil. Add the salt and sugar. Rub up the yolks 
of eggs with a few drops of cold milk or water. When the 
soup is boiling, remove it from the fire and stir it very care- 
fully into the eggs and milk. Return to the corner of the 
range where it will not boil, and stir for about 4 minutes 
until slightly thickened. Pour over the dried crusts and 
cover. Stand for 5 minutes and serve. N. B. — If boiled 
after the addition of the eggs, the soup will curdle. 

ONION SOUP NO. I. 

SOUPE AUX OGNONS. 

4 onions, sliced, 4 oz. of butter, 

2 oz. of flour, 1 quart of milk, 

1 quart of water, Salt and pepper, 

Slices of stale bread, Grated Parmesan cheese. 

Fry the onions in the butter until golden brown and 
tender. Sprinkle with flour. Add milk, water, and season- 



ONION SOUP NO. III. 29 

ings. Boil 10 minutes. Put thin slices of stale bread on a 
tin in the oven for 5 minutes, or until perfectly dry. Then 
lay these in layers in the soup-tureen with grated Parmesan 
cheese between. Pour the soup gently over this without 
straining. Cover and stand in a warm place 5 minutes, to 
allow the cheese to melt and the bread to absorb the soup. 
If preferred, the onions may be pressed through a sieve and 
thickened with a Liaison (see receipt). 

ONION SOUP NO. II. 

PUREE SOUBISE. 

6 onions, 1%. pints of cream, 

1)4, oz. butter, Salt, 

Pepper, 2 oz. flour, 

iyz pints of stock or boiling water, Nutmeg. 

Boil the onions in salted water until tender. Drain and 
dry on a cloth. Put them on the fire in a saucepan with I 
oz. of butter till slightly colored. Add all the other in- 
gredients, except |- an oz. of butter. When it comes to a 
boil, press through the sieve ; return the soup to the fire ; 
add the rest of the butter, and serve. 

ONION SOUP NO. Ill 

SOUPE AUX OGNONS. 

Butter, size of an egg, I pint of boiling water, 

2 large potatoes, mashed fine, 2 or 3 large onions, sliced thin, 

Salt and pepper, % cup of flour, 

1 quart milk, Dice of bread or toast. 

Fry the onions in the butter (or drippings) until reddish. 
Add the flour. Stir until browned slightly. Do not burn. 
Now pour in gradually the boiling water ; stir perfectly 
smooth ; add salt and pepper. Mix well and boil I minute. 
Then pour it into the soup-kettle and stand at the back of 
range. Before serving, add to the soup the milk warmed 
and rubbed up with the mashed potatoes until they are a 



30 GOOD-LIVING. 

smooth paste. Stir well. If necessary, add salt and pepper. 
Simmer a few moments. Have ready the pieces of toast or 
bread in the tureen. Pour in the hot soup. Cover and let 
stand 5 minutes in a warm place, then serve. 

TOMATO SOUP NO. II. 

POTAGE AUX TOMATES. 

2 quarts of pure tomato-juice, I gill of rice, well washed, 

2 onions, cut fine, 4 cloves, 

8 allspice, Sprig of thyme, 

Pepper and salt, Pinch of sugar to taste. 

The juice should be taken from tomatoes that have 
stewed 2 hours. Add the other ingredients ; boil I to \\ 
hours. Strain. It should now be as thick as cream (from 
the rice). If, however, it should not be thick enough, add I 
teaspoonful of corn-starch blended with very little cold 
water, and boil for 2 minutes. Serve with Croutons (see 
receipt). 

This is a most excellent soup, and in summer, when the 
vegetable is plentiful, not an extravagant one. 

Instead of Croutons may be added Swedish Noodles or 
Quenelles (see receipts). 

TOMATO BISQUE. 

BISQUE DE TOMATES. 

I quart of strained stewed tomatoes, Salt, 

I quart of new milk, boiling, Pepper, 

i level teaspoon of soda, i heaping teaspoon of corn-starch. 

When the strained stewed tomatoes are heated, add the 
soda dissolved in a little hot water. When they no longer 
fizz, add the boiling milk and seasonings. Bring to a boil, 
and stir in the corn-starch blended with very little cold 
water. Boil 2 or 3 minutes and serve. It should be as 
thick as rich cream. Croutons should be served at the same 
time. 



BLACK {OR TURTLE} BEAN SOUP. 3 1 

Or, boil a cupful of vermicelli in salted boiling water for 
15 minutes, till tender ; drain well and serve in the soup. In 
this case do not serve croutons. The above soup is made 
richer and more delectable by the addition of \ a cup of 
cream and 1 egg beaten together in the tureen. Pour the 
boiling soup over these, stirring briskly. If thickened with 
corn-starch, the latter is not requisite. 

PEASE SOUP. 

PUREE DE POIS SECS. 

i}4 pints of dried green peas, I cup of good milk or cream, 

Bunch of parsley and celery, Salt and pepper, 

2 onions, Ham-bone. 

Put the peas to soak for 5 or 6 hours, if you can spare 
the time, otherwise put them on in the corner of the range, 
with sufficient cold water to cover them, and allow to heat 
very gradually. Add in the onions cut in pieces, herbs, and 
the ham-bone (when not for maigre soup). Boil until the peas 
are perfectly soft, throwing in from time to time a gill of cold 
water if the peas have not been previously soaked. When 
perfectly tender, remove the ham-bone, and press all the 
rest through a sieve. Add the salt and pepper. Return to 
the fire to heat, and just before serving, add the rich milk or 
cream. This should make 2 quarts of soup. Serve with 
Croutons (see receipt). Time about 5 hours. 

BLACK {OR TURTLE) BEAN SOUP. 

1 pint of small black beans, 2% quarts of cold water, 

2 large onions, Butter, trie size of a walnut, 
Salt and pepper, 1 lemon, sliced, 

1 gill of sherry or red wine, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 

Sprig of thyme, Cayenne. 

Wash the beans well and soak in cold water for several 
hours. Put them down with the quantity of water men- 
tioned, the onions cut in quarters, a little salt and thyme, 



32 GOOD-LIVING. 

and let them simmer gently for 3 to 4 hours, until perfectly 
tender ; then press all through a sieve. Return to the fire. 
There should now be 2 quarts. Add the butter, more sea- 
sonings, a little cayenne, and just before serving add the 
wine. Have ready in the soup-tureen \ a lemon cut in thin 
slices, the eggs sliced, and the following balls : 

2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, ^ cup of dried bread-crumbs, 

Grated lemon-rind and juice, I teaspoon of finely-chopped parsley, 

1 yolk of raw egg, Cayenne. 

Pinch of grated nutmeg, 

Mix all well together. Make into balls the size of a nut- 
meg ; roll in flour and fry in butter. Put these in the 
tureen and pour the boiling soup over all. N. B. — You may 
add with advantage a small teaspoonful of corn-starch blended 
with cold water ; boil for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly ; 
serve. 

RED-BEAN SOUP. 

PUREE A LA CONDE. 
Proceed exactly as for Lentil Soup. 

LENTIL SOUP. 

PUREE OR POTAGE A LA CHANTILLY. 

1 pint of dried lentils, 2 quarts of cold water, 

I onion, minced, Bunch of parsley, 

Sprig of thyme, I bay-leaf, 

Salt and pepper, i tablespoon of butter. 

Wash the lentils. Soak them overnight in lukewarm 
water. Drain. Put them in a saucepan with the cold water. 
Let it come very gradually to a boil, then set it back and 
simmer gently I to 2 hours. Melt the butter in a sauce- 
pan. Fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf until 
brown. Add these to the soup. Boil i£ hours longer. If 
the lentils are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole 
through a colander. Return to the fire ; add seasonings. 



SORREL SOUP. 33 

Boil up once and serve with croutons. Or, when the soup is 
ready to serve, beat up I egg in the tureen and pour the 
boiling soup in very gradually at first, stirring constantly. 
Serve as directed. 

WHITE-BEAN SOUP. 

PUREE A LA DUSTAN. 
Proceed exactly as for Pease Soup. 

SORREL SOUP. 

POTAGE A LA "BONNE FEMME," OR SOUPE A L'OSEILLE. 

Butter, size of an egg, 3 sprigs of parsley, sliced fine, 

3 leaves of lettuce, sliced fine, i onion, sliced fine, 

I pint of sorrel, sliced fine, Pinch of nutmeg, 

Pepper and salt, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

3 quarts of boiling water, I cup of cream or rich milk, 

4 e gg s > * CU P °f mashed potato. 

Put the vegetables and butter into a saucepan. Cover 
and stew gently for io minutes, then add the flour, mixing 
well. Pour in gradually, stirring always, 3 quarts of boiling 
water. Mix the yolks of the eggs with a little of the cream 
or milk in the tureen. Put the rest of the cream, rubbed 
smooth with the potato, into the soup. Add seasonings. 
Have prepared some neat dice of toast or stale bread. Pour 
some of the boiling soup over the eggs in the tureen and 
mix well. Put in the pieces of stale bread, then add the rest 
of the soup. Cover and stand 5 minutes in a warm place. 
Then serve. Or the soup may be pressed through a sieve 
before dishing. 

Stock may be used instead of the water. Chopped cher- 
vil may be added ten minutes before removing from the 
fire. Many persons consider the soup greatly improved by 
rubbing the pieces of bread or toast first with raw onion. 



34 GOOD-LIVING. 

SUMMER MAIGRE SOUP. 

POTAGE A LA PAYSANNE. 

Hearts of 6 lettuces, cut in pieces, Chopped parsley, 

2 large onions, cut in pieces, 3 lumps of sugar, 

3 cucumbers, pared and sliced, X ^. butter, 

1 pint of young peas to be added later, Salt, 

2 quarts of older peas, Pepper. 

Stew all together I hour, stirring often, having ready 2 
quarts of older peas boiled in I gallon of water. Put them 
through a sieve back into the water in which they have boiled. 
Add to this the other ingredients. Simmer \\ hours. When 
done remove the onions or not, as you prefer. The English 
receipt adds : " Dip in a sprig of mint before it is taken off 
the fire." Serve. 

ECONOMICAL MAIGRE SOUP. 

2 quarts of green peas, 2 onions, sliced, 

Bunch of fine herbs, 2 quarts of hot water, 

Salt and pepper, I tablespoon of sugar, 

I pint of new milk, Mashed potatoes to taste. 

Stew for 30 minutes ; add the potatoes ; pass all through 
a sieve ; return to the fire, and add, lastly, the milk. Stir 
until perfectly smooth and hot. Serve with croutons. 

WHITE MAIGRE SOUP. 

SOUPE BLANCHE. 

1 pint of new milk, 2 yolks of eggs. 

2 pints of boiling water, Salt, 

3 tablespoons of flour, Pepper. 

Boil the water with some celery or onion for flavoring. 
Remove the vegetables. Boil the milk and water together, 
reserving some cold milk with which to blend the flour. 



SOUP MAIGRE. 



35 



When the milk boils, stir in the flour and boil 8 minutes, 
stirring always. Have ready in the tureen the yolks of eggs 
well beaten with a spoon. When the soup is ready, pour it 
very gently on the eggs, stirring quickly. Add celery-salt, 
if you like, and asparagus tips, small dice of carrots or young 
peas as a garnish. These latter should be boiled apart, 
drained, then added. Serve with croutons. 



WINTER OKRA SOUP. 



1 can of tomatoes. 

2 onions, chopped fine and fried in 

butter, 
X lb. of ham, fat and lean, cut in dice, 



Small piece of red pepper-pod without 

seeds, 
I gill of rice well washed, 
i can of New Orleans olcra. 



Stew all but the okra together for 3 hours, stirring fre- 
quently. Add about 2 cups of boiling water to prevent 
it becoming too thick. Ten minutes before serving, add the 
okra. Boil up thoroughly once and serve. It should be 
rather thicker than Pease Soup. You may add, if you like, 
oysters fried in butter, omitting the ham for fast days. 



SOUPE MAIGRE. 



1 quart of dried peas, 

2 large onions, 

I head of celery, 

1 carrot, 

2 turnips, 
Sprig of mint, 
Handful of spinach, 

3 quarts of cold water, 



Stew together 
until quite 
soft, then 
pass through 



1 lettuce, sliced, 

Piece of butter, size of a walnut, 

2 lumps of sugar, 
Asparagus tips if in season. 



Put the pulp and water back on the fire with the lettuce, 
butter, and sugar. Boil quickly for about 1 5 minutes. The 
asparagus tips should be boiled apart until tender, drained, 
and added when dishing the soup. 



36 GOOD-LIVING. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

PUREE DE LEGUMES. 

1 turnip, sliced, % oz. of flour, 

1 carrot, " 3 oz. of butter, 

2 onions, ' ' 1 teaspoon pepper, 
4 oz. celery, sliced, I sprig of parsley, 

3 quarts and 1 pint of boiling water, Bunch of celery leaves, 

2 even tablespoons of salt. 

Put the vegetables into 2 quarts of the water and boil 
until perfectly tender, from 1 to 2 hours, by which time the 
water will have absorbed a good deal. Rub all through a 
sieve ; add the 3 pints of boiling water. Return to the fire, 
and when it boils, add the butter rubbed smooth with the 
flour and moistened with a little of the hot soup ; season 
with salt and pepper. Boil and stir 2 or 3 minutes and serve. 
A parsnip may also be used. One gill of rich cream may be 
added just before serving. 

LOBSTER BLSQUE. 

BISQUE DE HOMARD. 

3 quarts of veal stock, 2 oz. of butter, 

2 heaping tablespoons of flour, Salt and pepper, 

1 cup of hot cream, 1 boiled lobster and its coral, 

I tablespoonful of oil, 3 tablespoons of vinegar. 

Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it melts stir in 
the flour ; stir and let it cook but not color. Add by de- 
grees the cream and I pint of stock, stirring constantly to 
avoid lumps ; then add the rest of the broth. Add the 
coral of the lobster, which has been previously dried in the 
oven and pounded fine in a mortar. Cut the meat of the 
lobster into dice, and 3 hours before it is required for use, 
dress it with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Before serving 
the soup, add the pieces of lobster, and heat thoroughly. 
It should be pale pink and of the consistency of cream. 
Serve with croutons. For maigre soup, substitute new milk 
for stock ; omit oil and vinegar, using instead a pinch of mace. 



MACARONI SOUP. 37 

TO OPEN CLAMS. 

Wash the shells clean ; place them in a clean roasting- 
pan on the hinge end. Pour a little boiling water into the 
pan and place in a hot oven until the shells open easily. 
The juice is thus collected in the pan and may also be used. 

BISQUE OF CLAMS. 

50 clams, Liquor of same, 

1 tablespoon of butter, Pinch of mace, 

2 tablespoons of flour, Milk, pepper. 

Strain the liquor of the clams and put down to boil. 
Wash the clams free from shells and grit. Scald them in their 
own liquor. In 3 minutes take the clams out and chop them 
very fine. Rub the flour and butter together over the fire 
until thoroughly blended, but not brown. Stir in by degrees 
the boiling liquor, and when perfectly smooth set aside to keep 
hot. Rub the clams with a potato-masher through a colan- 
der or coarse sieve, taking care to press all the fat and soft 
part through, but none of the hard part. Stir all the soft 
part into the saucepan in which you have the soup. Add a 
a little milk or a smaller quantity of cream. With the liquor 
there should be at least I quart in all. If too thick, thin 
with milk to taste. Season with a pinch of mace and 
pepper. Be careful about adding salt, as the clams are 
generally salt enough. Boil for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, 
and serve with croutons. 

MACARONI SOUP. 

SOUPE AU MACARONI. 

% lb. macaroni, 2 tablespoons each, grated Gruyere and Parmesan, 

I quart of boiling milk, ]/ z teaspoon of curry-powder, 

White Roux (see receipt), Salt and pepper. 

Boil the macaroni 15 minutes in salted boiling water. 
Drain the macaroni ; add it to the milk ; boil 10 minutes. 
Blend some of the boiling milk with the roux (butter and 
flour), and curry ; stir all in with the soup ; add cheese ; 
boil 3 minutes, season and serve. 



38 GOOD-LIVING. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

SOUPE AUX HUITRES. 

1 quart of oysters and their liquor, Salt, 
White Roux (see receipt), Milk, 
Pinch of ground mace, Cayenne. 

Scald the oysters in their liquor until half-cooked. Skim 
them out and set aside. Strain the liquor. Add to it 
enough boiling milk to make one quart. When this boils, 
stir it into the roux (see receipt) allowing about 2 table- 
spoonfuls of flour to the quart of soup. Stir and boil 3 
minutes. Add seasonings and the oysters ; boil a few 
minutes longer until the oysters are quite firm, and serve. 

SA VORY MAIGRE SOUP. 

6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 large, 

2 carrots, 2 onions, 

2 mushrooms (if available), 1 head of celery, 

1 large slice of bread, 1 saltspoon of salt, 

6 quarts of water, $£ " " pepper, 

2 teaspoons of Harvey's sauce, 1 tablespoon of butter. 

Clean and slice the vegetables. Toast the bread brown. 
Put all into the soup-kettle with cold water. Boil gently for 
3 hours, until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Mash 
all through a coarse sieve back into the water. Return to the 
fire. Melt an even tablespoon of butter until it begins to 
brown slightly, then stir it into the soup. Add the Harvey 
sauce, salt and pepper to taste ; serve with Croutons (see 
receipt). 

FISH STOCK. 

COULIS DE POISSON. 

Bones and trimmings of raw fish, 2 carrots, sliced, 

2 onions, sliced, 2 quarts of cold water, 
Rind of half a lemon, Bunch of sweet herbs. 

Clean and slice the vegetables ; put all in a saucepan and 
simmer gently for 2 hours. Skim and strain. Or the vege- 



LIMA BEANS AND TOMATO SOUP. 39 

tables and fish may first be fried in butter ; then boiled as 
above. This broth is very useful for many dishes, as will be 
seen by other receipts. It is especially good for boiling bass 
or other fine fish which is to be served cold with mayonnaise 
or tartare sauce. 

FISH SOUP. 

4 onions, sliced, Parsley, thyme, 3 bay-leaves, winter 

6 tomatoes, ' ' savory, tied in a bunch, 

Salad oil, Pepper and salt, 

3 pints of stock or water, 4 tablespoons of flour, 

About 6 small slices of fish, 1 wine-glass of white wine. 

Fry the onions in oil till light brown ; add the tomatoes 
and all other ingredients except the fish, blending the flour 
with a little of the cold stock. Boil 30 minutes ; then put in 
the slices of fish ; as soon as they are firm, remove the herbs, 
and serve the fish-soup with crusts of toast in the tureen. 
Add, if you like, \ a teaspoon of curry-powder with the 
flour. Almost any kind of fish or lobster may be used. For 
maigre soup, substitute water for the stock. 

CRAB GUMBO NO. II. 

Follow the directions for Chicken Gumbo File, substi- 
tuting 12 or 18 small soft-shell crabs (according to size) for 
the chicken. Prepare them as for frying ; sprinkle them with 
flour ; throw them into the boiling lard which is flavored with 
onion ; add the bits of ham, and all the details of the former 
receipt, omitting the oysters. For a maigre soup, add instead 
of the ham, a \ pound of butter. 

LIMA BEANS AND TOMATO SOUP. 

To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. I., add enough lima 
beans, boiled and mashed through a colander, to make the 
soup of the consistency of cream. Delicious. 

N. B. — The broth used may be very weak. Omit the rice. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING. 

Particular attention is called to the fact that every thing 
depends upon the manner in which an article of food is fried, 
as to whether it is most unwholesome or comparatively in- 
nocuous. There is no process of cooking which can be made 
to render food more indigestible than this same process of 
frying ; therefore it is of paramount importance that it should 
be most carefully studied and well understood. The sense of 
the matter is this: If an article to be fried is put into luke- 
warm or even quite hot fat, whether lard, drippings, or but- 
ter, the same article warms with it, drawing in at every pore 
the greasy fluid ; whereas, if, on the contrary, the fat is 
heated to boiling-point, that point being much higher for 
fatty fluid than for water, the moment the article to be fried 
is plunged into it, the intense heat closes every pore, and, it 
being instantly seared, cannot absorb an atom of the fat ; 
when removed from the grease and drained of all moisture 
that may remain on the surface (which may be accomplished 
by placing the article upon absorbent paper) there is really 
no grease remaining to tax the digestive powers. A well- 
fried croquette, for instance, should not leave a trace of 
grease upon the cut paper or folded napkin upon which it 
is served ; a well-fried Saratoga-chip may be taken up 
by gloved fingers, and not a trace of grease appear on 
the glove. The secret of all, then, is to have the lard or 
drippings sufficiently deep in the pan to serve for whatever 
frying may be necessary at the one time ; not to be obliged 
to add (Hibernian fashion) a great lump of cold lard, 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PRYING. 4 1 

" because there is n't enough to fry all " you may happen 
to have. This checks the boiling of the lard and immedi- 
ately the article immersed in it absorbs the fat again. 
Have plenty of lard and have it boiling. These are the two 
rules most necessary to observe. Do not be misled by hear- 
ing the lard spit and crackle ; that is no evidence of boiling ; 
it is simply throwing off some little drop of moisture. It 
must heat slowly at first, and then, being drawn forward on 
the range, be brought to a boil. When lard boils, it is per- 
fectly still, until it begins to smoke ; at this point there is 
danger of burning, so that it should not be allowed to smoke 
long, but be pushed aside a little for a moment or two. To 
test it when boiling, drop in one drop of water which should 
make a slight explosion ; or drop in a bit of the soft part of 
bread. If the lard is ready, the bread will begin to color al- 
most instantly. When the article is fried, skim it out, drain- 
ing off all fat ; lay it upon a sheet of brown paper in the 
open mouth of the oven, or upon the corner of the range, 
where it will keep very hot while drying ; should it be chilled, 
the fat will harden upon it instead of draining off. Pure 
lard is recommended for frying croquettes, etc. ; butter 
should seldom be used, except for sauteing, as it burns 
and blackens. 



FISH. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

TO BOIL FISH NO. I. 

Wash the fish thoroughly inside and out. Wipe dry with 
a clean cloth. Trim the fins close to the body with scissors. 
Have in a kettle on the fire enough water to cover the fish 
entirely. It should be well salted — that is, from 4 to 8 oz. 
of salt and £ oz. of saltpetre to every gallon of water. The 
water must boil when the fish is put in. It is almost impos- 
sible to boil fish handsomely without a regulation fish-kettle, 
with its drainer inside. When the fish is cleaned and the 
water boiling, lay the fish on the drainer and set the drainer 
in the kettle. Allow about 8 minutes to the pound for a large, 
thick fish, and 5 minutes to the pound for small, thin fish, 
counting from the time when the water begins again to 
boil after the fish is put in. It should boil very gently, in 
order not to crack the skin. You can tell when it is done by 
the flesh parting very easily from the bone. A little vinegar 
is a good addition to the water. When done lift out the 
drainer, set it across the kettle, and drain the fish dry. Serve 
on a folded napkin, garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. 
Always serve also an appropriate sauce. 

TO BOIL FISH NO. II. 

There come times and seasons when it is difficult to 
vary one's supply of fish, and the only resource from 
monotony is to vary the mode of cooking the fish at our 
42 



FISH BOILED AU COURT BOUILLON. 43 

command. It is therefore suggested, if you have only a 
common, rather tasteless fish to offer, to boil it in the 
following manner : 

Put down the fish-kettle with boiling water sufficiently 
deep to cover the fish to be cooked. In this put 2 or 3 
onions, 1 bay- leaf, sprig of thyme, 6 or 8 cloves, twice as 
many allspice, lemon-peel, salt, a bit of red pepper-pod, and 
lastly, when the water has boiled long enough to extract the 
flavor of the various condiments, add about 1 tablespoonful 
of vinegar. In this place the strainer containing the fish neat- 
ly dressed (see To Boil Fish No. I.). Boil according to the 
size of the fish, allowing from 5 to 8 minutes per pound. 
It is easily ascertained when it is done by the flesh parting 
readily from the bone. Remove the strainer ; drain ; dish 
the fish on a folded napkin ; dress with sliced lemon and 
plenty of parsley, to avoid drawing too close attention to 
the kind of fish it is. Serve with a Tartare Sauce or with a 
Cucumber Sauce (see receipts), and you will find your dish 
as highly relished as though you offered your guest a rare 
and fine fish. 

FISH BOILED AU COURT BOUILLON. 

POISSON CUIT AU COURT BOUILLON. 



1 stick of celery, cut fine, 


Butter, 


I carrot, 


Parsley, 


1 onion, " 


3 or 4 cloves, 


2 quarts of boiling water, 


Pepper-corn, 


% pint of vinegar, 


Salt. 



Fry the vegetables in the butter. Add all the ingredients 
to the water in the fish-kettle and boil 15 minutes. Skim. 
Add salt. It is now ready for use. Rub the skin of the 
fish (which has been prepared as above) with lemon-juice 
to keep it white. Put it into the boiling fish-broth, 
which must cover it well. Simmer very gently, allowing 
5 to 10 minutes per pound. When cooked, drain dry, 
and serve on a folded napkin with parsley and lemon and 
a sauce. 



44 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO BOIL A TROUT OF ONE POUND. 

When properly scaled and dressed and washed inside and 
out, wrap it in a napkin ; drop it into well-salted boiling 
water. Boil only 4 or 5 minutes. Drain well and serve on 
a folded napkin, with parsley and lemon and Maitre d'Hotel 
Sauce (see receipt). 

TO STEAM A FISH. 

Having washed and dressed the fish, secure the tail in its 
mouth ; lay it on a plate and pour over it \ pint of vinegar, 
pepper and salt. Let it stand one hour in the ice-box ; then 
pour off the vinegar ; put it in a steamer over boiling water ; 
cover tightly and steam 20 minutes for a medium-sized fish. 
When done, the flesh will part easily from the bone. Drain 
it well and serve as above with Maitre d'Hotel Sauce (see 
receipt). 

TO BROIL FISH. 

When it is very hot, grease the gridiron thoroughly. 
Clean and split the fish (unless small) and lay it upon the grid- 
iron. If the fish is small, broil over a quick, clear fire ; for a 
large fish, the fire should be more moderate, or the outside 
will be charred before the inside is cooked. Turn constant- 
ly, keeping the skin side longest against the fire. When 
done through (when the flesh will part easily from the bone), 
loosen the fish with a knife from the broiler ; turn the hot 
dish over the fish, and with a quick movement turn the two 
back again dexterously. A broken fish is most unappetizing, 
therefore it must be very carefully dished. Butter it gener- 
ously ; add salt and pepper, and, generally, a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley and juice of \ a lemon. 

TO FRY FISH. 

Cut the fins off ; wash the fish and dry it inside and out. 
If a thick fish, cut three gashes diagonally across the back; 
if small, leave it whole. To dry it thoroughly, powder it 



STEWED FISH EN MATELOTE. 45 

over with flour. Then dip it in egg, and then in fine sifted 
bread-crumbs, cracker-dust, or corn-meal, as you may prefer. 
Have the lard heating meanwhile, and when fiercely hot, lay 
in the fish. In 3 or 4 minutes (for a medium-sized fish) turn 
it over carefully with the cake-turner. The moment it is 
thoroughly done (when the flesh leaves the bone readily) re- 
move it from the pan to a piece of clean brown paper. Then 
serve it on a folded napkin. Nothing so spoils fried fish (or, 
indeed, any thing fried) as to let it stand in the pan a moment 
after it is sufficiently cooked. 

Follow the above rules carefully, and you will not find 
fried fish the dyspeptic bugbear it is credited with being. 
(See General Directions for Frying.) 

TO FRY BROOK TROUT OR OTHER SMALL FLSH. 

Clean and wash the fish, and let them lie a few minutes 
wrapped separately in a clean, dry towel ; they must be 
perfectly dry inside as well as outside ; season with salt and 
pepper and roll in corn-meal. Fry them in a mixture of 
-|- butter and § lard. Drain on a sieve or coarse brown 
paper, and serve hot on a folded napkin. Be sure the lard is 
boiling. (See General Directions for Frying.) 

STEWED FISH EN MA TELOTE. 

MATELOTE DE POISSON. 

3 or 4 lbs. of any firm fish, 1 cup of boiling water, 

2 or 3 onions, sliced, 1 cup of claret or white wine, 

Pepper and salt, 1 teaspoon of butter, 

Pinch of ground cloves, mace, and allspice, 2 teaspoons of flour. 

Cut the fish across in steaks, about one inch thick. Set 
aside until wanted. Meanwhile, boil the onions in very little 
water until perfectly tender. When cooked, drain off the 
water and add pepper, salt, spices, the boiling water, and 
wine. Lay in the slices of fish. When it comes to a boil, 
add in the flour and butter rubbed together and blended 



46 GOOD-LIVING. 

first with a little of the sauce. Stir. The fish will require 
about 10 minutes to boil. When thoroughly cooked, dish 
the steaks in a circle ; strain the sauce over them and serve 
garnished with large Croutons of stale bread, cut either in 
cubes or diamonds (see receipt). 



FISH STUFFED AND BAKED. 

4 or 5 lbs. fish, whole, Butter, 

2 cups of boiling water, I cup claret, 

2 or 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, Flour, 

]4. lemon, Dressing, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Trim the fins of the fish and wipe clean and dry, inside 
and out. Fill the fish with dressing, and sew it up with 
coarse thread. For the dressing, take dried bread-crumbs 
enough to fill the fish ; put a large lump of butter into the 
frypan ; let it melt, but not cook ; lay the bread-crumbs in, 
stirring around only long enough for the crumbs to absorb 
the butter. To this add £ an onion chopped very fine and 
fried also in butter, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a 
little lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne and salt. When the 
fish is sewn up, lay it in a roasting-pan just long enough to 
fit it ; put bits of butter all over the top and the boiling 
water in the pan. Season it. Bake for about 20 minutes, 
basting frequently ; then add the wine, Worcestershire 
sauce, lemon-juice, and bake until done, basting frequently. 
This will take about 45 minutes in all, but will depend upon 
the size and thickness of the fish. When the fish is done 
(the flesh leaving the bone easily), remove it to a hot dish 
and garnish with parsley and lemon. Put the pan on top of 
the range. Add a little more water if necessary, and I gill 
of claret. When boiling, stir in about I teaspoonful of 
butter and 2 of flour, rubbed smooth and blended with some 
of the sauce. Boil up for 2 minutes ; strain over the fish, 
and serve. 



BASS STEWED WITH TOMATOES. 47 



FISH SALAD. 




6 lbs. striped bass, cut in steaks, 


1 onion, 


Bones of the same, 


Butter, 


6 yolks of eggs, beaten together, 


Salt, 


3 whites of eggs, " " 


Cayenne, 


Juice of 3 lemons. 





Cut the fish into steaks, reserving all the bones, which you 
put down in 1 quart of boiling water with the onion fried 
slightly in butter, pepper, and salt. In this boil the fish 
steaks, which remove, when firm, to a platter. Strain the 
liquor in which the fish-bones, etc., have boiled ; squeeze 
into it the lemon-juice ; add a little cayenne to taste, and 
then very carefully add the beaten eggs. The safest way to 
do this successfully, is to remove the boiling liquid from the 
fire ; let it stand a moment ; have a little cold water mixed 
with your eggs, and pour these gently into the hot liquid, 
stirring briskly all the time. Return to the fire until it 
thickens, but without boiling, stirring constantly. Pour this 
over the fish and set away to cool. Dress with neatly cut 
strips of beet or red -pepper, and trim the edge with small 
lettuce leaves. Excellent. 

COLD BOILED BASS, SAUCE TAR TARE. 

BAR, SAUCE TARTARE. 

Boil the fish Au Court Bouillon (see receipt) ; serve 
very cold, with Tartare Sauce (see receipt) and dressed 
cucumbers. Delicious in warm weather. 

BASS STEWED WITH TOMATOES. 

BAR AUX TOMATES. 

1 quart of tomatoes, 4 lbs. of fish, 

2 onions, sliced, Salt, 
\y 2 gills sweet oil, Pepper. 

Stew the tomatoes (peeled) for 30 minutes. Cut the fish 
(any firm, white-fleshed fish will do) into square pieces, 



48 GOOD-LIVING. 

removing all the bones. Fry the sliced onions in the sweet 
oil. Lay the fish cutlets in the saucepan with the onions 
and sweet oil ; strain the tomatoes over this ; season with 
salt and pepper. Cover closely and stew gently for I hour. 
It must cook slowly, or the fish will go to pieces. Dish the 
cutlets neatly in a circle and pour the tomatoes, slightly 
thickened with corn-starch, over them. Serve. 



WHITEBAIT. 

Whitebait must be perfectly fresh, and must be kept 
in iced or salted water until required. 

When you are ready to cook them, drain them off and 
throw upon a clean, dry cloth. Pat very gently with the 
cloth to absorb whatever water may remain. Have a second 
cloth ready with about 2 good handfuls of flour for I pound 
of whitebait. Put the whitebait into this and toss them 
from side to side until every little fish has its separate and 
individual covering of flour. Then turn them upon a coarse 
sieve for the extra flour to sift out. Meanwhile, have on 
the fire a saucepan with lard 2 inches deep. Bring to a boil, 
and test with a bit of bread to see if it is just right before 
you put in the fish. Now put about \ of the pound at 
a time into a frying-basket, so that they shall not be too 
crowded. Lay the frying-basket in the lard until the 
little fish curl — that is, about 2 minutes. Turn them out 
upon a clean piece of brown paper in a hot place while you 
fry the rest. Sprinkle pepper and salt over all as evenly as 
you can. Have a napkin folded and baked in the oven until 
very hot. When the fish are cooked and the fat thoroughly 
drained off, lay them inside of the hot napkin. They should 
be eaten immediately. If kept standing, will become tough 
or limp. Serve, at the same time, cayenne and a lemon cut 
in quarters ; also small tartines made of the best brown 
bread, cut as thin as a wafer and buttered with the freshest 
of butter. 



CUTLETS OF SHAD A L'OSEILLE. 49 

BAKED SHAD NO. I. 

ALOSE FARCIE I. 

Make a light and delicate dressing as indicated in the 
receipt for Fish Stuffed and Baked. Stuff the shad ; sew it 
up ; have a large sheet of white paper buttered. Fold up the 
fish in it, twisting the ends securely to keep in both butter 
and steam. Put in a baking-pan and set in the oven. It will 
not require basting and will be done in about 45 minutes if 
of medium size. Remove the paper and serve with a Maitre 
d'Hotel or other fish-sauce. N. B. — The oven should be 
moderate. 

BOILED SHAD. 

ALOSE A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL, OR A LA HOLLANDAISE. 

Have the water boiling in the fish-kettle. Salt it strongly, 
and put 1 tablespoon of vinegar, if liked. Dress the fish 
neatly (see Directions for Boiling Fish), lay it on the strainer, 
and place it in the boiling water. Be careful, in dishing, not 
to break the skin. Dish on a folded napkin and garnish with 
parsley and sliced lemon. It will take about 20 to 25 minutes 
to cook. Serve with this a Maitre d'Hotel Sauce (see receipt), 
or a Sauce Hollandaise. If a roe-shad, the roe should be 
dipped in flour after having been parboiled (about 10 min- 
utes) ; it is then fried in butter until firm and golden brown. 

CUTLETS OF SHAD A L'OSEILLE. 

FILETS D'ALOSE A L'OSEILLE. 

Follow receipt for Fish Cutlets Fried, and serve on a bed 
of sorrel made into a smooth puree and dressed with plenty 
of butter. This is the way the French prepare shad. 
4 



50 GOOD-LIVING. 

BAKED SHAD NO II. 

ALOSE FARCIE II. 

Leave the head on and do not split the fish. Make a 
force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, cold ham or bacon 
minced fine, sweet marjoram, pepper, salt, mace or pinch 
of ground cloves. Moisten with a raw egg. Having dressed, 
washed, and dried the fish, stuff the inside with this, reserving 
a little to rub over the outside, having first rubbed the fish 
with yolk of raw egg. Place the fish in a deep pan, securing 
its tail in its mouth. Pour into the bottom of the pan a little 
water ; add a gill of port wine or claret and a piece of butter 
rolled in flour. Baste. Bake it well (45 minutes), and send 
it to table with the gravy poured over it. Garnish with 
lemon. Any fish may be baked in the same manner. A 
large fish of 10 or 12 lbs. weight will require two hours' bak- 
ing. (The average market shad weighs about 4 lbs.) The 
time first indicated is for a fish of moderate size. 

COLD BOILED SHAD, SAUCE TARTARE. 

ALOSE, SAUCE TARTARE. 

Boil as directed To Boil Fish, or Au Court Bouillon. Serve 
very cold with Tartare Sauce (see receipt). 

PLANKED SHAD. 

A thick oak board is prepared for this purpose with wooden 
pegs. Spread the fish open on the board and secure it with 
the pegs. Place the board before a clear fire, the end resting 
in a shallow pan, in which there is a little salt and water 
to baste the toasting fish. When almost cooked, baste also 
with melted butter and a little walnut catsup. Serve on the 
board (if a handsome one), or, when dishing, add a little wal- 
nut catsup to the gravy and pour it over the fish. Serve 
with pickled walnuts. 



SHAD-ROE CROQUETTES. 5 1 

PICKLED OR SOUSED SHAD. 

Put the fish-kettle on the fire with plenty of water to cover 
your fish. When boiling, throw in I cupful of salt. Lay the 
fish on the drainer in the kettle and boil about 30 minutes 
(according to the size of the fish). Take out the fish, drain 
it very thoroughly and let it get cold. Meanwhile take 
some of the water in which the fish was boiled ; add to it 
whole cloves, whole allspice, whole mace, and a piece of red 
pepper-pod without the seeds. Boil until the water is 
strongly flavored with the spices. Cut the fish in large 
pieces ; lay these in a stone crock ; mix from \ to \ strong 
vinegar with the spiced liquor, and pour over the fish until it 
is quite covered. Lay a cloth over the mouth of the jar ; put 
the cover on and set it away. It will be ready for use in one 
or two days, and will keep in a cold place for a fortnight, 
if the fish is always well covered by the liquor. 

Many other kinds of fish, such as bluefish, rockfish, etc., 
etc., are excellent treated in the same manner. This makes 
an excellent relish for luncheon. 

SHAD-ROE CROQUETTES. 

2 shad-roes, 1 tablespoon of lemon-juice, 

% pint cream, 1 large tablespoon of butter, 

Yolks of 2 eggs, 1 medium tablespoon chopped parsley, 

2 medium tablespoons of flour, Whites of 2 eggs for dipping, 

Salt, pepper, Sifted bread-crumbs, 

X grated nutmeg, Cayenne. 

Wash the shad-roes ; put them into a saucepan with salted 
boiling water ; cover and simmer 1 5 minutes. Remove from 
the fire ; take off the fine skin and mash them. Bring the 
cream to a boil. Rub the butter and flour together over the 
fire, but do not brown ; stir in gradually the boiling cream. 
Boil 3 minutes, until very thick. Remove from the fire and, 
while still boiling, stir in the 2 yolks of eggs. Add to this 
all the other ingredients ; mix well and spread on a dish 
to cool. When cold, flour your hands and form into cro- 



52 GOOD-LIVING. 

quettes 1x2} inches. Dip in egg first, then in fine crumbs. 
Let stand at least 1 hour in the ice-box ; then fry in boiling 
lard until golden brown. See General Directions for Frying. 
When cooked, lay the croquettes upon a folded paper to 
drain perfectly dry. Serve on a fancy-cut paper or a folded 
napkin, garnished with parsley and lemon. Hand at the 
same time a Sauce Tartare (see receipt). Delicious. 

FRIED SMELTS. 

EPERLANS FRITS. 

As smelts are not opened, but cleaned through the gills, it 
is important that they should be perfectly fresh. They spoil 
very easily. The head should be kept on except in certain 
receipts, where it will be mentioned to remove them. 

Dip in egg and bread-crumbs or corn-meal. Stand aside 
for an hour or more, if time permits. Have lard in the frying- 
pan. Bring it to a boil. See General Directions for Frying. 
Lay in the fish and fry gold color, which will take about 5 
minutes, or less. Dry on a sieve or paper in the open oven 
door. Serve on a folded napkin, arranged two and two at 
right angles. Serve with lemon cut in quarters and cayenne. 

BROILED SMELTS. 

EPERLANS GRILLES. 

Remove the heads. Split. Remove backbone. Lay on a 
greased broiler. Broil 5 minutes. Butter. Serve with lemon 
cut in quarters and cayenne. Delicious. 

BAKED SMELTS. 

Remove the heads. Split. Dip the smelts in melted but- 
ter and then in flour. Lay on a pan in the oven. Bake 8 to 
10 minutes. Serve with a lemon cut in quarters and cayenne. 






FISH CUTLETS. 53 

SMELTS WITH MA YONNAISE. 

EPERLANS, SAUCE MAYONNAISE. 

Fry the smelts as directed. Serve with a Mayonnaise 
Sauce (see receipt). These are excellent eaten cold, with 
the sauce. 

STEWED SMELTS. 

Remove the heads. Lay in a china bake-dish. Prepare a 
sauce of Fish-Stock (see receipt), or veal-stock, chopped 
onions, capers, parsley and thyme, pepper and salt, and a 
little white wine. When boiling, pour this over the fish and 
bake until tender, which will be in about 10 minutes. Serve 
in the same dish. 

FISH PUDDING (SCANDINA VIAN). 

Take a custard of eggs, milk, flour, and butter, allowing 5 
or 6 eggs to 1 quart of milk, which has been slightly thick- 
ened with flour. The eggs must be added to the milk when 
it is removed from the fire, and stirred briskly and steadily. 
Have some boiled cod freed from bones and chopped up 
fine. Stir it into the custard ; season with salt and pepper, 
and steam in a covered mould for 2 hours. Serve with 
Hollandaise or Lobster Sauce (see receipts). 

FISH CUTLETS. 

FILETS DE POISSON. 

Cut the fish in square pieces or in slices across the back. 
If square, remove all bones. Dry, dip, and fry as directed ; 
or, dip in Batter (see receipt), and fry in deep-boiling lard. 
See General Directions for Frying. Be sure the lard is 
boiling. When fried gold color either way, drain till dry 
on brown paper, then serve on a folded napkin with a quan- 
tity of parsley or cresses and some slices of lemon. Serve 
with the cutlets a sauce — either tomato, mayonnaise, tartare, 
etc. 



54 GOOD-LIVING. 

STEWED EELS, (LONDON COOKLNG-SCHOOL). 

% cup of butter, 4 small onions, chopped fine, 

1 tablespoon of flour, 2 cups of stock, 

1 gill of port, 2 bay-leaves, 

1 large or 2 small eels, Salt and pepper. 

Put the butter into a stewpan ; when melted, add the 
onions ; cook till light brown ; add the flour, stirring till 
well blended. Then add the stock (or water for a fast-day), 
wine, bay-leaves, salt and pepper, and the eels cut in 2-inch 
lengths. Cover tightly and stew 1 5 minutes. Serve on a 
hot platter with large croutons or neat pieces of toast. 

EELS EN MA TELOTE. 

ANGUILLES EN MATELOTE. 

2 lbs. eels, 2 oz. butter, 

yi pint button onions, 1 tablespoon of flour, 

1 onion, 10 cloves, 

2 tablespoons vinegar, Bouquet of he/bs, 
1 pint boiling water, 1 teaspoon of salt, 
)i saltspoon of pepper, 1 " of butter, 

1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 gill of wine, red or white, 

Croutons. 

Clean the eels ; lay them for a few minutes in cold water ; 
cut them in 2-inch lengths ; put them over the fire in cold 
water and salt and bring them to a boil. Add 1 onion 
stuck with the cloves, and the vinegar, when the fish is put 
down to boil. Boil 1 5 minutes ; take them up, dry on a 
clean cloth ; roll in flour and fry brown in saucepan with 2 
ounces of butter. When brown, add the herbs and boiling 
water, salt and pepper as above. Peel the button onions ; 
toss them over the fire in a frying-pan until brown, with I 
teaspoonful each of sugar and butter ; then add them to the 
matelote and simmer 1 hour. If the sauce evaporates, add 
enough boiling water to make up the original quantity. 
When done, add the wine and serve with croutons as a gar- 
nish. The above receipt may be used for any firm, fine fish. 



BROILED EELS. 55 

EELS A LA POULETTE. 

ANGUILLES A LA POULETTE. 

Eels, y 2 can mushrooms, 

I tablespoon butter, ^ tablespoon flour, dried in the oven 

I cup of broth, Parsley, 

I gill of white wine, Pepper and salt, 

I onion, minced, 2 or 3 yolks of eggs, 

Lemon-juice, Croutons. 

When the eels are skinned and properly cleaned, let them 
disgorge in vinegar and boiling water ; then dry thoroughly 
and cut in joints of equal lengths, 3 to 4 inches. The pro- 
portions given will be for about 12 such joints. Put them 
in a stewpan with about £ a can of button mushrooms (1 
cupful) and butter. Let begin to fry ; then dredge in \ 
tablespoonful of flour dried as above ; now add about 1 
cupful of broth and 1 gill of Chablis or other white wine, 
and stir until it boils ; then season with pepper, salt, fine 
herbs, and the onion, minced very fine. Let all stew until 
the eel is tender ; skim off the floating grease and remove 
the stew from the fire. Add a squeeze of lemon-juice mixed 
with the yolks of the eggs, and stir quickly to prevent curd- 
ling. Do not put again on the fire where it will cook, on 
account of the eggs. Serve with croutons and pieces of 
lemon to garnish the dish. 

FRIED EELS. 

ANGUILLES FRITES. 

Let the eel thoroughly disgorge in boiling water and vin- 
egar, cut in lengths of 3 or 4 inches. Wipe dry. Split in 
two, dip in egg and bread-crumb, and fry in boiling lard. 
See General Directions for Frying. 

BROILED EELS. 

ANGUILLES GRILLEES. 

Proceed as above, dipping only in flour, and broil quickly 
over a clear fire. 



56 GOOD-LIVING. 

BOILED SALMON. 

SAUMON, SAUCE MAYONNAISE. 
To every 3 pounds of salmon put : 

1 lb. salt, 1 gal. water, 

% oz. of saltpetre. 

Let the salt and water be thoroughly boiling, and skim it 
before you put in the fish. Boil quickly, allowing about 10 
minutes to the pound, whole ; serve immediately. Or if sliced, 
should be cut I inch thick. 

The appropriate sauces are mayonnaise, tartare, or a little 
of the water in which the salmon was boiled, with chopped 
parsley and lemon-juice added. 

SALMON STEAKS (ENGLISH RECEIPT). 

Cut the fish in slices about I inch thick. Dry well with a 
cloth ; dredge with flour, and lay them on a well-buttered 
gridiron over clear, hot coals. Turn with a broad-bladed 
knife slipped beneath, and a flat wire egg-beater above, lest 
the steak should break. When done to a light brown, lay in 
a hot dish ; butter each steak, seasoning with salt and pep- 
per ; cover closely, and serve with chopped parsley. 

SALMON CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE SAUMON. 

1 lb. of cold boiled salmon, Juice of half lemon, 

1 teaspoon of salt, Pinch of cayenne, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 cup of cream, 

1 " of butter, 3 tablespoons of flour. 

Chop the salmon fine ; add pepper, salt, parsley, and 
lemon-juice. Mix. Bring the cream to a boil. Rub the 
flour and butter together until smooth ; stir them into the 
cream ; stir and boil 3 minutes ; mix this with the salmon 
and set away to cool. When cold and firm, flour your hands 
and form it into rolls. Dip in egg, then in fine crumbs. Set 



COD STEAKS. 57 

in the ice-box for at least I hour ; then fry in boiling lard. 
See General Directions for Frying. Drain dry and serve 
on a cut paper or folded napkin garnished with parsley. 

BOILED COD. 

CABILLAUD. 

In boiling cod, a smaller quantity of salt is used than for 
salmon ; I ounce of salt to I quart of water is the propor- 
tion. Place the cod on the fish-drainer in the kettle, and 
cover with cold water salted as above. Let it come almost 
to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes ; skim. The time of 
boiling must vary with the weight, moreover with the thick- 
ness of the fish. It may take from 20 minutes for a small 
cod to 30 for a medium-sized one. The large ones are best 
cooked in sections, or they will not boil evenly, the thickness 
varying so much. Drain and serve on a napkin with Oyster 
or Egg Sauce (see receipts). 

COD STEAKS. 

FILETS DE CABILLAUD. 

Should either be dipped in egg and flour, and fried in boiling 
lard ; or wrapped in buttered paper and baked in the oven 
for 30 minutes ; or powdered with bread-crumbs and broiled. 

The proper sauces to serve with cod in any style are : Oy- 
ster Sauce, Egg Sauce, Brown Caper Sauce, or Anchovy 
Sauce ; Oyster Sauce is of course preferred (see receipts). 

SALT COD A LA BONNE FEMME. 

MORUE A LA BONNE FEMME. 

12 potatoes, Salt cod, enough for 6 persons, 

12 onions, y 2 lb. butter, 

1 oz. flour, blended with a little milk. 

Wash and peel the potatoes, and also the onions. Cut 
pieces of the fish 2x3 inches ; lay the potatoes at the bottom 
of the stewpan ; next the onions ; then, at the top, the salt 



58 GOOD-LI FING. 

fish, which has previously been washed in tepid water. Put 
enough water (cold) to cover the whole, and simmer until the 
fish is cooked ; take it out. Let the onions complete their 
cooking ; trim the pieces of salt fish, and remove all bones. 
Dissolve in another stewpan the butter and the flour, as 
above ; simmer 10 minutes, then put in the potatoes, onions, 
fish in order, as above ; simmer another 10 minutes, and serve. 
— GoguL 

CODFISH CROQUETTES. 

lYz lbs. mashed potatoes, 10 oz. picked codfish, scalded, 

4 oz. of butter, I gill of cream or rich milk, 

i teaspoon of pepper, i egg, 

Fine bread-crumbs. 

Melt the butter in the hot potato ; add the fish, pepper, 
and cream ; mix thoroughly, and mould into round or oval 
balls. Roll these in the beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs, 
which must be very fine ; then lay them on a frying-basket and 
sink in deep boiling lard, having tested the heat with a bit 
of bread. See General Directions for Frying. When the 
croquettes are a fine golden-brown, lift out the basket, let it 
drain for a moment, and serve the croquettes on a folded 
napkin. This quantity will make 18 good-sized croquettes. 

BACALAO A LA VIZCAINA. 

1 lb. dried salt codfish, i large onion, chopped fine, 

2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine, i gill of olive oil, 

i pint rich tomato sauce, I red sweet-pepper, 

Pepper, 12 croutons, 1x2 inches thick. 

Soak the codfish overnight in cold water. Boil it 40 
minutes, putting it on in cold water. Pick out the bones, 
and set away to cool. Make a good Tomato Sauce (see 
receipt). Chop up the sweet-pepper and add to the sauce. 
Fry the onions and garlic in the oil, and add all to the sauce. 
Cut the croutons from the soft part of the loaf and fry in 
boiling oil. Then put the codfish into the tomato sauce 
and heat it thoroughly in the oven in a deep dish with the 






HALIBUT STEAKS A LA FLAMANDE. 59 

croutons arranged around as a border. Allow it to remain 
in the oven about 15 minutes, then serve in same dish. 

N. B. — The Spanish red sweet-peppers come to us pre- 
served in oil in tin cans. Add black pepper as may be 
necessary. 

CODFISH BALLS. 

2 cups picked salt cod, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

2 " mashed potato, ^ cup of cream, 

% teaspoon of pepper. 

Pick the codfish fine ; soak in cold water 30 minutes. Drain. 
Cover with boiling water. Stand on back of range 1 5 minutes. 
Drain and press out all water. Mix the fish with the pota- 
toes, which should be well beaten. Add all other ingredients. 
Beat well. Form into balls, roll in egg and bread-crumbs, or 
in eggs and flour, and fry in boiling lard until well browned. 
See General Directions for Frying. 

BROILED CODFISH OR HADDOCK. 

CABILLAUD, OR EGLEFIN GRILLE. 

Split the tail-end of the fish and broil as directed for 
Broiled Fish. Spread with Maitre d' Hotel Butter (see 
receipt) ; let stand for 1 or 2 minutes in the open oven to 
melt the butter ; serve hot. 

HALIBUT STEAK A LA FLAMANDE. 

Take a halibut steak \\ in. thick. Wash and wipe dry. 
Butter the bottom of a flat earthenware dish that will stand 
the fire. Sprinkle over the bottom grated onion, pepper, 
and salt ; put the fish on this ; brush it over with the yolk 
of an egg ; sprinkle with grated onion, pepper, salt, and 
chopped parsley ; pour over it a teaspoonful of lemon-juice ; 
put 1 tablespoonful of butter in bits over the top, and bake 
in a moderate oven 30 minutes. Serve it in the dish in which 
it was baked, garnished with sprigs of parsley and lemon. 
Serve Bechamel Sauce (see receipt) in a sauce-boat at the 
same time. 



60 GOOD-LIVING. 

DEVILLED HALIBUT. 

Use I pound of cold boiled halibut instead of 12 crabs, 
otherwise follow exactly the receipt for Devilled Crabs. 
Serve in shells. 

BAKED HALIBUT A LA CREOLE. 

I lb. halibut steak, 2 cups of stewed tomatoes, 

1 clove of garlic, chopped fine, Butter, pepper, salt to taste, 

Dried bread-crumbs, about 1 cup. 

Remove all the bone from the steak. Place it in a bake- 
dish ; sprinkle over it the garlic. Cover with a layer of 
tomatoes, then a layer of bread-crumbs, bits of butter, pepper, 
salt ; then another layer of tomatoes. Bake 20 minutes. 
Serve in the same dish in which it was baked. 

FISH A LA DELMONICO. 

POISSON A LA DELMONICO. 

4 lbs. of fish (halibut is best), 4 tablespoons of flour, 

yi lb. of butter, Pepper, 

1 pint of milk, Salt. 

Remove all the bones from the fish, which has been previ- 
ously boiled. Put the fish into a bake-dish. Stir the flour 
and butter, rubbed smooth, into the boiling milk. Boil 5 
minutes, stirring constantly. Add pepper and salt. Pour 
the sauce, when well thickened, over the fish. Cover the top 
with stale bread-crumbs, and put it in the oven until browned, 
about 15 minutes. Nice for breakfast. 

STEWED HADDOCK. 

EGLEFIN EN MATELOTE. 

4 or 5 lbs. of haddock, cut in square 2 oz. of butter, 

pieces, Powdered mace, 

Cayenne and salt, Flour, 

2 teaspoons of Reading sauce, ]^ pint of sherry, 

2 " " anchovy " 2 tablespoons of flour. 

Split the fish lengthwise ; cut in pieces. Boil the bones 
and head in sufficient water to cover them. Strain the 






BREAKFAST FISH. 6 1 

liquor. Butter a porcelain saucepan ; lay the fish in it with 
the flesh downward ; sprinkle each piece with cayenne, salt, 
mace, and flour. Pour over this I pint of the fish liquor, 
cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes, occasionally shaking 
the saucepan to prevent sticking. Add the Reading and 
anchovy sauces and the sherry. Rub the butter and flour 
together and blend with a little of the gravy, then stir these 
into the saucepan. Stir constantly. Add more seasoning, if 
necessary ; let it simmer 10 minutes, and serve in a deep 
dish with parsley and lemon. Pour the gravy over the fish. 

MOCK TURBO T A LA CREME. 

6 lbs. of cold boiled haddock, 1 quart of milk, 

^f onion, Sprig of parsley, chopped, 

Small cup of flour, 1 cup of milk, 

Yolks of 2 eggs, y^ teaspoon of white pepper, 

Cheese, and bread-crumbs, " " thyme, 

Salt, y^ cup of butter. 

Bring the quart of milk to a boil with onion and parsley. 
Rub together the flour and cold milk ; stir them into the 
boiling milk. Add seasonings. Have ready the fish, boned. 
Shred. Butter a bake-dish. Lay in a layer of fish. Remove 
the sauce from the fire and carefully stir in the beaten yolk 
of the eggs. Now pour a layer of this sauce over the fish ; 
then begin again with a layer of fish, and so on until the dish 
is filled. Finish with sauce, over which sprinkle a layer 
of fine bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Bake 1 hour in a 
moderate oven. 

BREAKFAST FISH. 

2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of mustard-flour, 

Cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice, Cold fish, dried bread-crumbs. 

Free the fish from bones, and flake it. Rub the other 
ingredients to a smooth paste. Half-fill scallop-shells with 
the fish ; lay the paste over it ; cover with dried bread- 
crumbs. Set in the oven until thoroughly heated, about 10 
minutes. 



62 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRIED SOLE (ENGLISH RECEIPT). 

SOLES FRITES. 

The fish must be perfectly fresh, and perfectly clean. If 
the former point is in the slightest degree doubtful, do not 
attempt to fry it whole, but remove the fillets from the bone 
and cut off the parts near the head and at the edges, and 
wash with vinegar and water. After the sole has been 
cleaned, it must be thoroughly dried, and lightly dredged 
with flour, which completes the drying. Have ready plenty 
of sifted bread-crumbs, and enough well-beaten yolk of egg 
to coat the fish all over ; this is best done with a brush. 
Then let every part be covered with bread-crumbs. Have the 
lard quite boiling, or the fish will be limp. See General 
Directions for Frying. Fry the fish a golden brown ; 
place it when fried on a paper before the fire to drain off the 
grease. Serve on a napkin with parsley and lemon. 

FILLETS OF SOLE A LA ORLY. 

FILETS DE SOLE A LA ORLY. 

I sole for every 4 fillets, Chopped parsley, 

Lemon-juice, pepper, and salt, 1 onion, sliced. 

Get your fishmonger to prepare the fillets if possible ; if 
you are obliged, however, to do them yourself, first skin the 
fish (a troublesome task if you would not waste your fish) ; 
then make a slit with a very sharp knife from head to tail on 
each side, also down the back and belly. Then run your 
sharp knife very close to the backbone each side, which will 
separate the fillets. Trim them neatly at the head and tail 
ends, and remove all the fin-bones from the sides. The fil- 
lets thus prepared and wiped clean, steep them for I hour in 
a mixture of lemon-juice, parsley, onions, salt, and pepper. 
Then drain and dry them. Cover with a coating of flour, or 
dip in Batter (see receipt) and fry in boiling lard. See Gen- 
eral Directions for Frying. Dish on a folded napkin in a 
circle, with a bunch of fried parsley in the centre. Serve with 



FILLETS OF SOLE, MAITRE D 'HOTEL. 63 

Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Many other fish of delicate 
quality may be treated in the same manner. 

SOLE A LA URORE. 

1 sole, Butter, salt, and pepper, 

Chopped parsley, % small onion, grated, 

1 cup of White Sauce, 4 hard-boiled eggs. 

Butter a shallow fire-proof or tin dish ; lay the fish upon it 
whole. Cover with a buttered paper and place in the oven 
for 10 minutes. Then take it out and carefully remove the 
backbone, filling its place with chopped onions and parsley. 
Replace the upper side of the fish, and cover the whole with 
rich White Sauce (see receipt). Return to the oven for 10 to 
1 5 minutes longer. Prepare the eggs by cutting the whites 
in quarters with which to garnish the edge ; press the yokes 
through a coarse sieve. When the fish is cooked, sprinkle 
the top thickly with the yolks and return to the oven for 2 
minutes, to heat thoroughly. The edges of the dish should 
be decorated with the whites of eggs, sliced lemon, and 
parsley. 

FILLETS OF SOLE, MAITRE U HOTEL. 

FILETS DE SOLE A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 



1 sole makes 4 fillets, 


Lemon-juice, 


1 oz. of butter, 


Parsley, 


l /2. gill of cream, 


^ oz. of flour. 



Time required, about 30 minutes. Fillet the sole as de- 
scribed in Fillets of Sole a la Orly. Put the bones and 
fins of the sole into a saucepan with 2 gills of hot water 
to boil. Butter a flat tin pan thoroughly. Fold the fillets 
loosely over and lay them on the tin. Sprinkle a little salt 
and a squeeze of lemon-juice over them and cover with 
a buttered paper. Set them in a sharp oven for 6 minutes. 

To make the sauce : Chop a small bunch of parsley very 
fine and put it aside. Mix in a stewpan I oz. of butter and 
f- oz. of flour until smooth. Strain the fish-stock by degrees 



64 GOOD-LIVING. 

into the flour and butter, stirring quickly to prevent lumps. 
This should be done off the fire. Now put the stewpan on 
the fire and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the cream and 
stir until it boils. Remove from the fire ; add the chopped 
parsley, half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, and pepper. 
Arrange the fillets, when done, on a hot platter ; add to the 
sauce whatever liquor may remain in the flat tin pan ; pour 
the sauce over the soles and serve. 

TO FRESHEN SALT FISH. 

Lay the fish in cold water, carefully turning the skin-side 
upward, otherwise the salt in melting will all settle in the 
skin, and the fish be as salt as ever. 

Put the flesh side down, and naturally the salt falls to the 
bottom of the water. 

HERRING BALLS. 

3 bloaters, or red herrings, Cream, and butter, 

Equal bulk of mashed potatoes, Eggs, 

Lard, Bread-crumbs for dipping. 

Partly boil the bloaters or herrings ; remove the skin ; 
take all the meat from the bones ; add to this the mashed 
potatoes made from potatoes baked in their skins. Add a 
large lump of butter and cream enough to soften it. Form 
into balls ; roll in egg and bread-crumbs and fry in lard 
or butter golden brown. See General Directions for Fry- 
ing. Take care not to make the mixture too soft, as it will 
become still softer when subjected to the heat of the lard. 

FINNAN HADDIE. 

Cut a piece of the size required. Put it into,a frying-pan 
with boiling water to cover. Boil 5 minutes. Throw off the 
water ; add a lump of butter ; when it melts, and the fish is 
well-covered with it, serve. 

BROILED SALT MACKEREL. 

Soak overnight. Next morning drain well and wipe dry. 
Broil over a clear fire. Now put it on a platter ; pour boil- 



SHREWSBURY "COURT-BOUILLON." 65 

ing water over it ; in 1 or 2 minutes throw this off. Melt 1 
teaspoonful of butter in 1 gill of hot cream. Pour over the 
fish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Recom- 
mended. 

PO TO MA C HERRING. 

Select those with roe, by preference. Prepare as directed 
for Finnan Haddie. 

YARMOUTH BLOA TERS. 
Prepare as directed for Finnan Haddie. 

KIPPERED HERRING. 
Prepare as directed for Finnan Haddie. 

SHRE WSB URY" COUR T-BO VILLON." 

4 medium-sized or 5 small onions cut fine, ^ cup red wine, 

3j4 lbs. fish (any kind that has firm }?. tablespoon of butter or sweet 

flesh will do), drippings, 

30 large clams without the beards, Small bunch of celery leaves, chopped 

1 cup stewed tomatoes, fine, 

6 large sea-biscuits, Larger bunch of parsley leaves, 

Clam-juice, chopped fine, 

Yz sweet-pepper, chopped fine. Salt, pepper, 

2 potatoes, cut in pieces (not indis- Ground cloves, ground allspice, 
pensable), nutmeg or ground mace, to taste. 

Chop the onion and fry it gold color in the butter or drip- 
pings. Remove the pot (an iron one is best). Lay upon 
the onions in layers the fish, free from bones ; sweet-pepper, 
celery, and parsley chopped and sprinkled over ; then a pinch 
each of the spices, pepper, and salt ; then clams, tomatoes, 
and sea-biscuit broken in pieces ; then again the fish, etc., as 
before, until all the ingredients are in the pot. Pour in all 
the clam-juice which you have previously strained ; add cold 
water up to the level of the fish. Stew gently but 
steadily 45 minutes. Remove with a soup-strainer to a 
deep dish all that is solid, leaving the sauce in the pot. Add 
5 



66 GOOD-LIVING. 

the red wine, and a little blending of corn-starch or flour 
rubbed up in cold water. Let the same boil 3 or 4 minutes, 
stirring frequently. Have ready the court-bouillon in a 
deep dish with a cover, (not a soup-tureen) ; strain some of 
the sauce over it. Serve what remains in a sauce-boat. 
This will be found to be a most excellent modification of the 
common chowder, and one which is far more acceptable to a 
delicate palate. Its appearance when served is also more 
tempting. Elsewhere will be found a receipt for conven- 
tional clam chowder. 

NEW ORLEANS "COURT-BOUILLON" 

5 or 6 lbs. bass, halibut, or other fish, 3 onions, chopped, 

1 tablespoon of butter, 1 can of tomatoes, 

1 flour, 3 or 4 whole cloves, 

1 pint of claret, Pepper, salt, toast. 

Fry the onions in the butter, then add the tomatoes and 
cloves, etc. Let these stew together for 30 minutes. Then 
add the flour blended with about \ a pint of the claret. Let 
it boil, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, until the flour is 
thoroughly cooked. Strain the sauce and return it to the 
fire in a saucepan. Lay in the sauce the fish cut in steaks, 
bass being best, but any firm fish will do. Let them sim- 
mer gently until cooked, which will require from 6 to 10 
minutes according to the thickness and quality of the fish. 
Have ready in a deep dish, slices of dry toast, enough to 
cover the bottom of the dish. When they are done, lay 
the slices of fish on the toast ; add the remaining £ pint of 
claret to the sauce ; pour it over the fish and serve. A piece 
of sweet-pepper chopped may be added to the above sauce, 
also cayenne and more spices, if preferred. 

FROGS FRIED IN BA TTER. 
Scald the legs 3 minutes in boiling water with salt 
and a little lemon-juice ; dry in a towel ; dip in Fritter-Batter 
(see receipt), and fry in boiling lard until light golden-brown. 
Drain on soft paper and serve with a bunch of fried parsley 
on a folded napkin. Garnish with lemon. 



FROGS IN BROWN FRICASSY. 67 

FROGS FRIED. 

GRENOUILLES FRITES. 

Having scalded the frogs' legs, dip them in egg and sifted 
bread-crumbs and fry as above. 

FROGS A LA POULETTE. 

GRENOUILLES A LA POULETTE. 

Prepare the frogs' legs as above. Make a Poulette Sauce 
(see receipt) and warm the frogs' legs in it, being careful not 
to stir in the eggs until the last. If boiled after the addition 
of the eggs, the sauce will curdle. 

A WHITE ERICA SS Y OF FROGS. 

(OLD-FASHIONED RECEIPT.) 

" Cut off the Hinder Legs ; strip them of the Skin and cut 
off the Feet, and boil them tender in a little Veal Broth, with 
whole Pepper and a little Salt, with a Bunch of Sweet Herbs 
and some Lemon-peel. Stew these with a Shallot till the Flesh 
is a little tender ; strain off the Liquor and thicken it with 
cream and butter ; serve them hot with Mushrooms pickled 
tossed up with the sauce. They make a very good Dish, and 
their Bones, being of a very fine Texture, are better to be 
eaten than those of Larks." 

FROGS IN BROWN FRICASSY. 

" Prepare the Frogs as before, flour them well, put them 
into a pan of hot lard and fry them brown, then drain them 
from the Liquor and make a Sauce for them of good meat 
Gravy ; some Lemon-peel, a Shallot or two, some Spices 
beaten [ground], a Bunch of Sweet Herbs, an Anchovy, some 
pickled Mushrooms and their Liquor, and some Pepper and 
Salt. Toss up these thick with Butter, pour the sauce over 
them, and some Lemon-juice. Garnish with broiled Mush- 
room Flaps and Lemon sliced." 

These two antiques cannot be improved upon. 



SHELL-FISH. 

TERRAPIN. 

Terrapins are always sold alive, and are in season from 
November to March. Diamond-backs are the best, but are 
very expensive. The males are small and of inferior flavor. 
The common red-legs or fresh-water terrapins are quite good 
and much less expensive. 

PHILADELPHIA STEWED TERRAPIN. 

3 terrapins, 2 gills of thick cream, 

5 eggs, boiled hard, yi lb. of butter, 

2 tablespoons of flour, 2 gills of madeira or sherry, 

I dessertspoon of salt, Cayenne to taste. 

Put the terrapins alive into a pot of boiling water and boil 
io or 15 minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and 
the toe-nails. Now put them back into fresh boiling water ; 
add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and boil slowly until the 
shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is quite tender, 
from 1 to \\ hours. When done, take out of the pot ; save 
2 gills of the liquor in which they are boiled. Remove the 
under shell and allow it to stand until cool enough to handle. 
Then take the meat out of the upper shells. Carefully 
remove the sand-bags, bladders, the thick, heavy part of the 
intestines, and the gall-bag which is found embedded in 
the lobe of the liver, and throw them away. In removing 
the gall-bag, be careful not to break it, as it would spoil the 
whole terrapin. In the finer preparations of terrapin the 
" ribbons " are not used. Break the terrapin into convenient- 
sized pieces, add it to the liver broken up, also all the eggs 
68 



TO SERVE OYSTERS RAW W A BLOCK OF ICE. 69 

found in the terrapin, all the juices that have accumulated 
during the cutting up, and the 2 gills of liquor saved from 
the boiling. Set the terrapin in a china-lined saucepan upon 
a moderate fire. Rub the flour, with a small portion of the 
butter, to a cream. Stir it into the terrapin. Rub the 5 
yolks of eggs to a very smooth paste with the salt, red pep- 
per, butter, and wine. Add them to the terrapin ; stir to 
mix well. When hot, add the cream and serve immediately. 
It must not boil after the cream is added, and indeed must 
not stew more than about 5 minutes from the time it begins 
to cook ; only just long enough to cook the flour, and to 
thoroughly heat the other ingredients as they are added. 
This is highly recommended, being the genuine receipt from 
the best authority. 

BALTIMORE TERRAPIN. 

Have ready a pot of boiling water on the fire. When it 
boils hard, lay in the terrapins and boil until the skin and 
toe-nails will come off (see Philadelphia Terrapin). When 
prepared as directed, cut up the meat. Season to taste with 
cayenne, black-pepper, and salt. Put all into a stewpan with 
the liquor that the terrapin has yielded while being cut up. 
Add no water. To each terrapin allow \ lb. of best butter, 
mixed with a teaspoonful of flour. Cover closely and stew 
gently until the meat is very tender, and serve hot in a deep 
dish. If the allowance of flour is not sufficient, add more. 

N. B. — In removing the gall-bag be careful not to break 
it, or the entire terrapin will be rendered uneatable. 

TO SERVE OYSTERS RAW IN A BLOCK OF ICE. 

Make a hollow in the centre of a block of ice by placing a 
hot flat-iron on the top, in whatever form may be desired. 
Stand the block on a folded napkin upon a platter. Salt 
and pepper the oysters before putting them in the ice. Stand 
in a very cold place until served, that the ice may not melt. 
Decorate with sliced lemon, and serve with cayenne and 
lemon cut in quarters. 



JTO GOOD-LIVING. 

RAW OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL. 

HUITRES. 

Serve the oysters on flat oyster-plates, 6 to each person, 
putting a quarter of a lemon in the centre, and hand black 
and red pepper. Or, use the usual dinner-plate, making a 
bed of finely-chipped ice, on which lay the oysters in their 
shells, 5 or 6 for each person. Hand lemon cut in quarters, 
black and red pepper. A European custom worth importing 
is to hand at the same time tiny tartines made of thinnest 
brown bread, spread with freshest butter, and cut in neat 
diamonds. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

HUITRES FRITES. 

50 largest oysters, Egg, 

Fine dried bread-crumbs, sifted, Grated nutmeg, 

Salt and pepper, Lard for frying. 

The oysters should be the largest and firmest obtainable; 
Shrewsburys are best. Wipe them perfectly dry in a clean 
cloth, and feel with your fingers that no pieces of shell remain 
attached to them. Have ready in a saucer the egg slightly 
beaten. Have ready in a bowl the bread-crumbs ; fine rolled 
crackers may be mixed with them. Season the crumbs with 
salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Dip the oysters 
first in egg, then cover thoroughly with the crumbs. Lay 
on a dish, not touching each other, that they may dry. Set 
away for 2 or 3 hours, if you have time. Put lard enough in 
the frying-pan to cover the oysters. Bring it to a boil. See 
General Directions for Frying. When the lard is ready, lay 
in the oysters, not close enough to touch ; use a frying-bas- 
ket, if possible. In 3 to 5 minutes they will be done. If 
the lard is deep enough, they will not require turning. As 
they are removed from the lard, lay on a sieve or paper in 
the mouth of the oven. When perfectly freed from grease, 
dish. Serve very hot, garnished with sliced lemon and 
parsley, and neatly arranged on a fancy paper. 



ROAST OYSTERS. ?I 

STEAMED OYSTERS. 
Leave a covered dish where it will heat thoroughly. Open, 
wash, and drain the oysters ; put them in a shallow tin pan, 
and place in the steamer. Cover and leave it over boiling 
water until the oysters are puffed and curled, about 10 minutes 
or more ; then put them into a hot dish. They may be 
dressed at table, or butter, salt, and pepper may be added in 
the kitchen. Or, the oysters may be steamed in their shells, 
washing them well beforehand. They should be placed in 
the steamer over boiling water, covered close, and left until 
the shells open easily. 

OYSTER PAN-ROAST. 
Wipe the large, opened oysters dry on a clean cloth, pick- 
ing off all bits of shell. Leave the cloth covered over them 
while you heat a shallow frying-pan very hot. Put in, then, 
a lump of butter, and when it melts, add the oysters and let 
them fry until they begin to brown slightly, turning con- 
stantly and keeping the pan very hot. Have ready a hot 
dish with a generous lump of butter in it. When the oysters 
are done, turn them in ; add salt and pepper ; cover well 
with the melted butter. Serve. 

DEVILLED OYSTERS. 

HUITRES A LA DIABLE. 
Prepare according to the receipt for Devilled Crabs, 
putting the force-meat into some of the deepest oyster-shells 
which have been scrubbed clean ; or into silver or china 
shells. 

ROAST OYSTERS. 

HUITRES ROTIES. 

Scrub the oyster-shells ; stand them on their hinges on the 
top of the range, and roast until quite firm. Remove the 
flat shell from each ; put a small piece of butter into the 
deep shell with the oyster, and serve very hot. 

Or, place on their hinges in a baking pan ; roast in a quick 
oven until quite firm, and serve as directed. 



72 GOOD-LIVING. 

O YS TERS A LA PO ULE TTE. 

HUITRES A LA POULETTE. 

Prepare as directed for Curried Oysters, omitting the 
curry-powder and adding I gill of sherry or white wine. 
When the oysters are cooked, remove from the fire, and stir 
in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with 2 tablespoonfuls of rich 
cream. Serve immediately. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

50 oysters, 1 pint of cream, 

1 tablespoon of butter, 1 gill of bread-crumbs, 

1 pint of boiling water or juice, Salt and pepper. 

Drain the oysters in a colander ; rinse, to remove all shell 
and grit. Put the bread-crumbs in the water or juice and 
stew for 5 minutes ; then add the oysters, and, in ten min- 
utes, add the cream, butter, salt, and pepper. Boil up once 
and serve. Oyster-juice is preferable to boiling water, if 
obtainable in sufficient quantity. 

OYSTER FRITTERS.. 

BEIGNETS d'HUITRES. 

25 large oysters, 2 eggs, 

I cup of milk, i teaspoon of salt, 

A pinch of pepper, 2 cups of flour, 

% teaspoon of baking-powder. 

Drain the oysters to remove any shell and grit. Chop 
fine. Beat the eggs together until light ; add to them the 
milk, then the flour and salt and beat until perfectly smooth. 
Add the dry oysters and baking-powder. Mix, and drop by 
spoonfuls into boiling lard, having first tested the lard (see 
General Directions for Frying). Fry golden brown ; 
drain on a piece of paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve 
on a folded napkin or cut paper. Do not use a fork to re- 
move them, as piercing would render them heavy. 

Or follow receipt for Clam Fritters. 






PICKLED OYSTERS. 73 

OYSTERS A U PARMESAN. 

HUITRES AU PARMESAN. 
Oysters, Butter, 

Bread-crumbs, Chopped parsley, 

Grated parmesan, I gill of white wine, 

Cayenne. 

Butter a shallow dish ; strew with brown bread-crumbs. 
Wipe the oysters ; see that they are free from grit ; lay them 
on the crumbs ; strew parsley and cheese over them, then 
more crumbs. Pour in the white wine and put them in a 
quick oven. Pour a little melted butter over the top and 
when browned (20 minutes) serve. 

CODDLED OYSTERS. 

Oysters, Pepper and salt, 

Butter, Toast. 

Drain the liquor from large oysters. Heat a large lump of 
butter in a saucepan. When it is hot, add the liquor. 
When the liquor boils very hard, drop in the oysters and 
cook until the beard curls and the oyster is quite firm. Have 
the bottom of a deep dish covered with slices of toast ; lay 
the oysters on these ; pour the liquor over the toast ; add 
salt and pepper and let stand in a warm place until the 
toast has absorbed all the liquor. There should be no super- 
fluous liquor. If the oysters have yielded too much in the 
first instance, you need use only enough to soak the toast 
well. 

PICKLED OYSTERS. 

100 large oysters, 12 blades of mace, 

2 heaping teaspoons of whole allspice, 1 sliced lemon, 

2 level " " cloves, 1 pint of vinegar, 

1 lady-finger pepper, Salt to taste. 

Drain the oysters. Free every one from shell or grit, 
being careful not to bruise or tear them. Strain the liquor 
into a china-lined kettle, selecting one that will not scorch 
easily. Add as much boiling water as there is oyster liquor. 
Bring this to a boil. When boiling, lay in the oysters, a few 
at a time, that you may watch them well. Boil until the 
beard curls and the fat part of the oyster feels perfectly 



74 



GOOD-LIVING. 



firm between your thumb and finger. Lay them on open 
platters where they will cool. After a while turn them over 
and cool the other side. The oysters must be absolutely 
cold all through, or they will be slimy when pickled. When 
all the oysters are cooked and set to cool, remove the 
liquor from the fire, and wash out the kettle. Strain I quart 
of the liquor into the kettle, add to it I heaping teaspoonful of 
the allspice and I level teaspoonful of cloves— that is twice as 
much of the former ; a small piece of red pepper, about \ a 
teaspoonful of salt, and 6 leaves of mace. Set it where it 
will simmer for about 30 minutes, until the liquor is well 
flavored with the spices. Meanwhile, as soon as the oysters 
are perfectly cold all through, put them into a stone jar with 
the lemon sliced very thin, (remove the pips), the lady-finger 
pepper, from which remove the seeds, the remainder of the 
cloves, allspice, and mace. When the boiling liquor is suf- 
ficiently flavored, remove it from the fire, add the vinegar, 
(the quantity given is for strong vinegar) ; set it again on the 
fire to heat, and then pour it through a strainer over the 
oysters and fresh spices. Do not use the spices that have 
been boiled. The amount of liquor allowed should cover 
the oysters entirely. Cover the jar and set in a cold place 
for 24 hours before using. If always well covered with the 
pickle, these oysters should keep for several weeks in cold 
weather. If they are to be kept, next day pack the oysters 
in clean preserve-jars ; fill them to cover with the pickle, 
screw on the tops, and set in a cold place. Delicious. 

N. B. — Be careful not to scorch the liquor, or the oysters 
will be spoiled. 

OYSTER PIE. 
PATE D'HUITRES. 

100 large oysters, 6 yolks of eggs, 

1 tablespoon of flour, I level tablespoon of butter, 

I " of mixed ground spices, Salt and pepper to taste, 

1 large slice of stale bread, grated. 

Line a large round dish with Good Plain Paste (see 
receipt), rolling the bottom very thin, and building up the 



SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 75 

edges with I or 2 extra layers. Drain the liquor from the 
oysters ; see that they are free from all shell and grit. Put 
them and the butter rubbed with the flour in a saucepan on 
the fire. Add the seasonings and stir well. Add I pint of 
the liquor strained and boiling. Stir smooth. Chop the hard- 
boiled eggs fine. Pour the oysters, in 5 minutes, when 
scalded, into the dish ; sprinkle the bread-crumbs and eggs 
over the top. Cover with a lid of paste rolled about \ an 
inch thick. Trim and notch the edges neatly. Cut a hole (x) 
in the centre. Roll up a small sheet of pastry, notch it 
crosswise with a knife, and bake it on a separate tin. Some 
pastry leaves may also be cut out and arranged on the top of 
the pie. Set in a moderately-quick oven and bake for about 
30 to 40 minutes. Watch that one side does not bake faster 
than the other. Boil some of the remaining oyster-liquor. 
When the pie is done, pour it through the hole in the top ; 
place the pastry rose over the hole and serve. 



SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

HUITRES EN COQUILLES. 

50 oysters and their juice, Butter, 

Bread-crumbs, Salt and cayenne. 

Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Drain them, and 
remove all grit or pieces of shell. Butter the scallop-shells 
and shake fine bread-crumbs over them. Fill them with 
alternate layers of oysters, crumbs, and lumps of butter ; 
season each layer. Pour in some of the oyster-liquor 
strained. Cover the top with bread-crumbs moistened with 
melted butter. Place them in a quick oven for about 5 
minutes to brown the top. 

Or : Follow the above directions, using 1 large dish instead 
of shells, filling with alternate layers, adding cream as well as 
the oyster-juice to moisten it. Bake 15 minutes until well 
browned. 



•j6 GOOD-LIVING. 

OYSTERS FOR PATES, Etc. 

I quart of oysters, Butter size of an egg, 

y% small onion, grated, I teaspoon of flour, 

I gill mushroom-juice, Salt and pepper, 

% box of mushrooms, Chopped parsley, 

Lemon-juice. 

Bring the oysters to a boil in their own juice. Drain 
them. Put the butter into a saucepan ; when hot add the 
onion and flour and stir well until smooth. Now add I gill 
of the juice of a can of mushrooms, pepper, salt, parsley, and 
the mushrooms cut not too fine, that is in halves or quarters. 
Then add the oysters. Stir all together until the oysters are 
firm. Add lemon-juice to taste, and a little cayenne. Serve 
in pates, caisses, vol-au-vent, etc. 

CURRIED OYSTERS. 

HUITRES AU KARL 

50 oysters with their juice, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

1 gill of cream, or 2 of good milk, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

Pinch of corn-starch, Small saltspoon of curry-powder, 

1 tablespoon of fine-chopped parsley, Salt. 

Drain the oyster-juice into a saucepan and put on the fire 
to boil. Wipe the oysters, which should be large and firm, 
in a clean cloth, carefully removing any pieces of shell. Put 
in another saucepan the butter and flour. Rub smooth, but 
do not brown. When the oyster-juice, to which you have 
added a little milk (if you have no cream), comes to a boil, 
stir it into the flour very slowly, stirring constantly to prevent 
lumps. Let this boil a few minutes. Rub up the curry- 
powder with a pinch of corn-starch or flour and a few drops 
of cold milk or water. Stir this into the sauce. When 
boiling hard, drop in the oysters as dry as possible, and let 
them cook quickly, until you can feel the fat part firm. Add 
salt. If the sauce is not thick enough to cling to the 
oysters, add a little more corn-starch rubbed up in cold milk 
or water, give one boil and serve in a dish bordered with rice. 
Sprinkle parsley over the oysters. 



MINCED OYSTERS. JJ 

OYSTERS STEWED IN A CHAFING-DISH. 

2 tablespoons of milk or oyster-juice, 25 oysters, 

I heaping teaspoon corn-starch, I teaspoon of butter, 

Salt, pepper, dash of nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of sherry (may be omitted). 

Melt the butter. When it bubbles, put in the oysters 
without the juice. Add pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and put 
the cover on, raising it every little while to stir the oysters 
and turn them. Rub the corn-starch with the milk, if you do 
not use sherry ; if you do use the wine, blend the corn-starch 
with some of the cold oyster-juice. When the beards of the 
oysters begin to curl, stir in the corn-starch. Stir and boil 
until the corn-starch thickens well, then add the sherry ; stir, 
and the oysters are ready to eat. 

OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE. 

HUITRES EN BROCHETTE. 

Take a long skewer (silver or plated is best) ; string upon 
it, alternately, oysters and bits of sliced bacon cut to the size 
of the oysters. The extreme ends should terminate with the 
bacon. When all are in place, broil the whole over a clear 
fire until the oysters are firm. Have some butter melting by 
the side of the fire ; lay the oysters on a hot dish ; pour the 
butter over ; sprinkle with pepper, and salt, and serve. If 
the skewers are not presentable, draw the oysters off and dish 
them alternately with the bacon. 

Very simple and good. 

MINCED OYSTERS. 

HUITRES EN HACHIS. 

50 oysters, y^ the bulk when minced, in cold fish, 

6 fresh (or canned) mushrooms, minced, 1 gill white wine, 

1 gill fish-stock (or the oyster-juice), 3 yolks of eggs, 

2 tablespoons of rich cream, 1 tablespoon of butter, 
Parsley ; chives chopped fine, 1 teaspoon of flour. 

Have ready a saucepan of boiling water ; throw in the 
oysters ; when it comes again to a boil, skim them out ; throw 



y8 GOOD-LIVING. 

into cold water for a minute ; wipe dry and mince not too 
fine. Add to this mince half the bulk of any fine, white, 
cold fish minced fine, (or omit this, if not obtainable). Now 
put into a saucepan the butter, I tablespoonful of parsley, 
i teaspoonful of chives chopped very fine, and the mush- 
rooms. Let them stew gently for about 5 minutes, dredging 
in about 1 teaspoonful of flour when the butter melts ; stir it 
a few times. Add the white wine and Fish-Stock (see re- 
ceipt), or failing this latter, use the same amount of oyster- 
juice strained. Mix. Add the mince, and stew gently until 
all the sauce is entirely absorbed and the mince becomes like 
a thick batter. Be careful it does not scorch. Remove from 
the fire and stir in the yolks of eggs beaten with the cream. 
Stir again over the fire for about 1 minute. Have ready 
large Croutons (see receipt), or puff-paste shells ; when the 
mince is ready, serve on these. 
Highly recommended. 

OYSTERS AND MACARONI. 

HUITRES AU MACARONI. 

50 oysters parboiled in their own juice, ]£ lb. macaroni, 

1 small teacup of cream or White Sauce, Bread-crumbs, 

Cayenne and salt, Grated lemon-peel. 

Boil the macaroni in salted, boiling water 25 minutes, or 
until very tender. Drain thoroughly. Lay in a deep fire- 
proof dish. Put upon it a thick layer of oysters with 
cayenne, salt, and grated lemon-peel. Pour over all a small 
cupful of cream, or, if you have none, use same quantity of 
White Sauce (see receipt), the consistency of cream. Cover 
the top with bread-crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. 
Serve hot with Sauce Piquante (see receipt). The oysters 
will require fully 10 minutes to complete their cooking in 
the oven, having been boiled only until the beards have be- 
gun to curl. 

TO BOIL A LOBSTER. 
Have a large kettle on the fire with plenty of boiling 
water, deep enough to cover the lobster well. Put in £ to I 



BROILED LOBSTER, CALLED A L'AMERICATNE. ?§ 

cupful of salt. When the water is galloping, put in the 
lobster head-foremost and keep it under water with the poker 
for a minute until it is quiet. Boil 15 to 20 minutes a lobster 
of 2 to 4 pounds. Lobster is even better boiled in sea- 
water. 

N. B. — If a boiled lobster was alive when it was cooked, 
the tail when pressed out, should be elastic and spring back 
instantly. It is advisable never to buy a lobster which has 
not been seen alive ; when, however, it is unavoidable, the 
above may be of service in selecting. 

TO DRESS LOBSTERS COLD. 

Crack the shell of the claws carefully, not to mash the 
meat ; remove it and place upon a dish ; crack the second 
small joint of the claws — pick out the meat also. Now turn 
the lobster on its back ; lay a heavy knife on the middle of 
the tail, all the way up to the body. Give it a gentle blow 
with the hammer ; then with both hands, turn back the shell 
and draw out the tail intact. This leaves the tail still at- 
tached to the body and its shell. Twist off the claws from 
the under side of the body, and open it so that the fat may 
easily be reached. Now open the tail in length half-way 
through on the under side ; remove the black vein from body 
to end. Place the lobster on the dish. Arrange the large 
claws towards the front, and the small claws around as a 
garnish. Dress with parsley and serve. Or the body may also 
be stripped of its shell and opened ; in which case, remove 
the " lady's arm-chair " (or stomach) and sand-bags. This 
is not as pretty a way as the first described, but gives a little 
more edible meat. 

BROLLED LOBSTER, CALLED A LAMERICALNE. 

HOMARD A L'AMERICAINE. 

Remove the small claws, " lady's arm-chair " (stomach), and 
sand-bags from a live lobster, splitting it with a heavy knife 



80 GOOD-LIVING. 

and mallet from head to end of tail. Spread open on a hot 
gridiron over a fiercely hot bed of coals. Turn and broil 
about 20 minutes. Serve with plain Melted Butter (see 
receipt). 

LOBSTER A LA NEWBERG. 

HOMARD A LA NEWBERG. 

1 lobster, from 3^ to 4 lbs, Cayenne, salt, 

1 gill of sherry, I tablespoon of brandy, 

1 pint of cream, 1 " " butter, 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Put the lobster head-foremost into a pot of boiling water, 
and boil 15 minutes. Take it out and allow it to cool. Re- 
move the meat from the shell and cut it into square pieces 
about the size of a walnut. Put them into a stewpan with 
the sherry, brandy, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. 
Add a little cayenne. Let all boil for 5 minutes. Prepare 
in a bowl with cream, the yolks of eggs and a little butter. 
Mix well and stir it into the lobster while the latter is boiling. 
Do not let boil again after the cream is added to the lobster, 
or it will curdle. Serve in a very hot dish. 

LOBSTER CHOPS. 

COTELETTES DE HOMARD. 

2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of flour, 

I cup of cream, 3 yolks of eggs, 

Nutmeg, % lb. of boiled lobster meat, 

Cayenne and salt, Egg for dipping, 

Lard for frying, Sifted bread-crumbs for dipping. 

Cut the lobster into very small dice. Put the butter and 
flour into a saucepan on the fire. Blend and stir, but do not 
color. Add the boiling cream and the lobster dice. Stir 2 
or 3 minutes. Remove from the fire. When slightly cool, 
stir in the beaten yolks of eggs, a dash of nutmeg, cayenne 
and salt to taste. Return to the fire and stir until the eggs 
are well set. Butter a platter. Spread the mixture upon it 



LOBSTER FARCIED. 8 1 

\ an inch thick. When cold and firm, form it into chops 
pointed at one end. Dip first into bread-crumbs, then into 
eggs, then again into the crumbs. Let them stand in the 
ice-box for I hour at least. Have the lard boiling in the 
frying-pan. Test it with a piece of bread. See General 
Directions for Frying. When the lard is ready, lay in the 
chops, using a frying-basket if possible ; fry golden brown. 
Drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Stick a 
claw in the end of each chop, and dish in a circle. Garnish 
tastefully, and serve with Tartare Sauce (see receipt). 

LOBSTER CURRY. 

HOMARD AU KARL 

I lobster, medium size, 2 onions, minced, 

1 oz. of butter, I tablespoon curry-powder, 

2 gills of stock or water, Juice of half a lemon, 
Salt and cayenne, Boiled rice. 

Cut the boiled lobster into dice ; fry the onion in butter; 
stir in the curry-powder and stock or water. Stew all to- 
gether until beginning to thicken, then put in the lobster 
meat. Stew for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
Just before serving, add the lemon-juice, salt, and cayenne. 
Dish with a wall of boiled rice around the edge and the lob- 
ster in the middle. 

DEVILLED LOBSTER. 

HOMARD A LA DIABLE. 
Having boiled the lobster and picked out the meat, remove 
the black vein from the tail. Save all fat, green and red. Chop 
the meat and dress exactly as directed for Devilled Crabs ; fill 
the lobster-shell with the mixture ; cover with bread-crumbs ; 
bake 15 minutes until browned. 

LOBSTER FARCIED. 

HOMARD FARCI. 

Proceed exactly as for Crabs Farcied, having removed 

the black vein from the tail of the lobster. 
6 



82 GOOD-LIVING. 

SOFT-SHELL CRABS FRLED. 

Raise the ends of the crabs and remove the sand-bags 
and spongy substance from beneath the shells. Wash well 
and wipe. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put equal parts 
of lard and butter in a frying-pan on the fire ; when boiling, 
lay in the crabs. Turn them when partly done ; leave them 
longest on the white or under side. They will take from 10 
to 15 minutes to cook, according to size. Rub a little fresh 
butter over the backs of the crabs when dishing, and serve 
very hot. 

BOILED HARD-SHELL CRABS. 
Have a large pot of boiling water on the fire. Put in from 
1 to 2 gills of salt. When boiling hard, pick up the crabs 
with the kitchen tongs ; drop them into the water head fore- 
most, if they will allow it, and boil rapidly for about 10 
minutes, or until the shells are bright red, but no longer, or 
they will become watery. The livelier they are, the better. 
They must be alive when put into the pot. Crabs do not 
keep long when once cooked ; in summer not over 36 hours ; 
lobsters likewise. 

DEVILLED CRABS. 

CRABES A LA DIABLE. 

6 oz. of crab-meat, 2 oz. of bread-crumbs, 

2 hard-boiled eggs, crumbed, Juice of half a lemon, 

Cayenne and salt, Cream. 

Pick the meat from boiled hard crabs. Wash the shells. 
Fill the shells with the above ingredients mixed. Use Cream 
Sauce if you have no cream. Sprinkle fine bread-crumbs 
over each, and a lump of butter on top. Brown in a quick 
oven. 

CRABS FARCIED. 

CRABES FARCIS. 
Picked crab-meat, Grated bread-crumbs, 

Salt, pepper, Butter, 

Cayenne, Lemon-juice. 

After picking the meat from the shells, allow a little more 
than one quarter the weight of the meat in crumbs. Cover 






FRIED SCALLOPS. 83 

with bread-crumbs ; dot the top with butter, and set in the 
oven 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve on a napkin 
with lemon and parsley. 

CRAB SALAD. 

CRABES EN SALADE. 

Picked crab-meat, Head of lettuce, 

2 tablespoons of sweet oil, 1 saltspoon of salt, 

1 tablespoon of vinegar, Pepper and cayenne to taste. 

It will take the meat of at least 12 to 15 crabs of medium 
size to make a salad for six persons. Pick it carefully, keep- 
ing the pieces as large as possible. Lay it in a bowl. Mix 
the dressing as above ; pour over the crabs ; mix thoroughly 
and set in the ice-box. Put a row of crisp lettuce leaves 
around the edge when ready to serve. The quantity of 
dressing may be increased according to the quantity of meat 
the crabs yield. Recommended. 

FRIED SCALLOPS. 

1 quart of scallops, Bread-crumbs, 

1 egg, Lard, 

Pepper, salt, Nutmeg. 

Wash the scallops. Wipe dry in a clean cloth. Dip first 
into the egg, which you have beaten sufficiently to mix yolk 
and white ; then into fine, sifted, dried bread-crumbs, or 
mixed bread and cracker crumbs. The bread-crumbs must 
be seasoned with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg. Lay 
the scallops on a dish, separated, so that the air may dry 
them. Set them away for an hour or more, then fry golden 
brown (see General Directions for Frying). They must 
be shaken constantly so as to prevent browning unevenly. 
The secret of cooking these well, is to dip them nicely, and 
not to fry them more than about 3 minutes, the lard being 
quite boiling. They should be of a pale golden brown. As 
a rule they are cooked too much. Dry well on a sieve or 
paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve very hot on a cut 
paper garnished with parsley and lemon. 



84 GOOD-LIVING. 

SCALLOP SALAD. 

Scald the scallops in salted boiling water for 3 minutes. 
When cold, cut each in two. Put into a salad bowl. Dress 
with French Dressing (see receipt), adding a dash of cayenne. 
Surround with crisp young lettuce leaves. Recommended. 

STEWED SCALLOPS. 

Proceed exactly as for Stewed Oysters, only cooking 
the scallops a much shorter time, until slightly firm. 

SCALLOPS A LA POULETTE. 

The same as above, with the addition of the yolks of 
2 eggs stirred in after the scallops are removed from 
the fire. 

SCALLOP PATES. 

Prepare as for Devilled Scallops. Have ready some 
pastry-puffs well heated. Fill with the mixture and serve. 

DEVILLED SCALLOPS; OR, 

A LA DIABLE. 

I pint of rich White Sauce, 1 quart of scallops, 

1 small cup of stale bread-crumbs, Salt, 

Curry-powder, Celery-salt, 

1 gill of sherry, Cayenne. 

Scald the scallops. Chop not too fine. Stir the bread- 
crumbs and scallops into enough White Sauce to blend 
the whole without making it too liquid ; the addition of the 
wine will soften it still more. Add the seasoning, being 
careful to put not enough of any one thing to permit its 
particular flavor to predominate. The quantity of curry 
can never be accurately defined, as it varies greatly in 
strength. The only guide is, that it should not be recogniz- 
able among the other ingredients. Put into buttered shells, 
with browned bread-crumbs over the tops, dot with butter, 
and bake 5 to 10 minutes, just long enough to heat 
thoroughly through. 



CLAM FRITTERS. 85 

CLAMS. 

Note. — to open clams without a knife. 

Scrub the shells. Place the clams on their hinges in a 
clean roasting-pan. Pour a few drops of boiling water into 
the pan, and place it in the oven until the shells open easily. 
Strain the liquor and use if required. 

RAW CLAMS. 

Select the smallest and most tender. Serve before dinner 
in spring and summer. They should be as cold as possible. 
(See receipt for Raw Oysters.) 

CLAMS WITH CREAM. 

50 small clams, Butter size of an egg, 

1 teaspoon of flour, 1 cup of boiling cream, 

Clam-juice, strained, Pepper. 

Chop the clams not very fine. Melt the butter in a sauce- 
pan on the fire. Add the flour and stir well. Cook a few 
moments, but do not color ; add gradually the hot clam- 
juice, then the clams. Stew 3 to 5 minutes. Add the cream 
and pepper, also salt if required. Bring to a boil and serve. 

FARCIED CLAMS. 

Follow exactly the receipt for Farcied Crabs, using the 
shells of the clams to bake the mixture in. Season with 
plenty of cayenne and add chopped parsley. Be careful of 
adding salt. 

CLAM STEW. 

Follow same directions as for Stewed Oysters, or 
Oysters a la Poulette (see receipts). 

CLAM FRITTERS. 

Chop the clams fine, or simply cut off the beards and 
leave the rest of the clam whole. Make a thick batter, see 
below. Mix the clams with it and drop the mixture by the 



86 GOOD-LIVING. 

tablespoonful into boiling lard. Fry golden brown. See 
General Directions for Frying ; drain for a moment on brown 
paper in the mouth of the oven and serve very hot, in a 
pyramid on a folded napkin. 
Batter for above : 

% lb. of flour, 2 eggs, 

I level saltspoon of salt, I tablespoon of salad oil. 

^ " " "pepper, I cup of water, or less, 

% level saltspoon of nutmeg. 

Mix all together with the yolks of eggs. Beat the whites 
to a stiff froth, then mix them with the batter, which should 
be stiff enough to hold the drops from the spoon in shape 
when dropped upon the batter. If you have enough clam- 
juice use it in preference to water for thinning the batter. 

N. B. — Oysters may be cooked as above. 

ROAST CLAMS. 

Scrub the shells. Stand them on their hinges on the top 
of the range and roast until quite firm. Break off one shell ; 
put a piece of butter on each clam and serve very hot. Or, 
stand the clams as described in a baking-pan ; set the pan in 
a quick oven for about 15 minutes, until the clams are quite 
firm. Strain the juice into a sauce-boat, add a lump of butter 
and pepper and serve. 

CLAM CHOWDER NO. L 

50 clams, 2 gills of good stock, or milk, 

1 onion, chopped fine, I tablespoon of butter, 
Salt to taste, 2 tablespoons of flour, 
Cayenne, i saltspoon of ground mace, 

2 gills of cream, I " " powdered thyme, 
8 oz. of potato, cut in dice, 4 oz. hard tack, in pieces. 

When the clams have boiled 3 minutes in their own juice, 
strain out and return the juice to the fire. Fry the onion in 
butter, and the pork cut in dice ; add the flour. Stir. When 
cooked well, add the clam-juice, stock (or water), cream, 
mace, thyme, cayenne, potatoes, and salt if necessary. When 






CLAM CHOWDER NO. II. 



37 



the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes) add the clams 
whole or cut in pieces and the biscuits soaked in milk. Boil 
until the clams are firm, and serve in a deep dish or tureen. 

CLAM CHOWDER NO. II. 



200 soft clams, 

1 teaspoon of sweet marjoram, 

I " " thyme, 

I " " sage, 

1 " " summer savory, 

I large teaspoon salt, 

Pepper to taste, 



1 large onion, sliced, 

10 large crackers, 

1 can of tomatoes, 

Chopped parsley, 

%. lb. butter, 

1 saltspoon ground cloves, 

1 ' ' curry-powder, 



2 gills of cream or rich milk. 

Boil all but the milk together for about 40 minutes. 
When done, add the milk or cream. Bring to a boil. Then 
move from the fire and add 2 gills of sherry. Serve in 
a tureen. 




TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING MEATS. 





Hr. 


Minutes. 


Sirloin of beef, oven, moderately under-done 


.per lb. 




9 


Sirloin of beef, before the fire, moderately under-done 


per lb. 




IO 


Rib-roast, boned and rolled, oven, moderately under-done, 








per lb. 




IO 


Leg of mutton, oven, moderately under-done 


.per lb. 




IO 


Stuffed shoulder of mutton, oven, well-done 


.per lb. 




16 


Saddle of mutton, oven, very under-done 


.per lb. 




9 


Loin of mutton, oven, " " 


.per lb. 




8 


Loin of veal, slow oven, very well-done (covered). . . . 


.per lb. 




15 to 18 


Fillet of veal, slow oven, " " " .... 


.per lb. 




18 to 20 


Stuffed shoulder of veal, slow oven, well-done (covered) 


per lb. 




18 to 20 


Leg of pork, slow oven, very well-done 


.per lb. 




20 


Loin of pork, slow oven, very well-done 


. per lb. 




15 to 18 


Shoulder of pork, slow oven, very well-done 


.per lb. 




20 


Filet of beef, moderately-quick oven, under-done. . . . 


. .whole 




45 to 60 


Liver, moderate oven, well-done 


. .whole 


2 




Liver, braised, simmered gently, well-done 


. whole 


2 




Beef, braised, simmered gently (from first putting on) 


.per lb. 




About 36 


Bouilli, simmered very gently " " " " . 


.per lb. 




32 to 35 


Cornbeef, simmered very gently " " " " . 


.per lb. 




30 to 32 


Brisket of beef, simmered gently " " " " . 


.per lb. 




About 30 


Ham, in cider. When cider begins to boil, allow. . . 


.per lb. 




18 to 20 


Ham, in water. When water begins to boil, allow. . . 


.per lb. 




18 to 20 


Leg of mutton, simmered very gently 


.per lb. 




15 to 18 


Bacon, boil gently 


.per lb. 




15 




. . .fnllv 


5 









DIRECTIONS FOR REHEATING, ETC. 89 

DIRECTIONS FOR KEEPING ME A TS, ETC., WARM, 
AND REHEATING. 

Sufficient attention is not paid to this detail, so important 
to the achievement of furnishing a good table. First of all 
must be laid down the rule that nothing is to be put into 
the oven to keep warm. This is the easiest and most usual 
mode ; but it is a very bad practice, as the kind of heat to 
which the article of food is thus subjected tends to dry the 
surfaces, more or less, to leather or a crisp, and renders the 
dish most unappetizing and unattractive. There is but one 
right way to manage this matter. 

Put upon a dish, bowl, or plate (according to its nature) 
the article of food to be kept hot. Cover it over closely 
with an inverted bowl, dish, or plate, as may be required. 
Make it as nearly air-tight as possible. Fill with boiling 
water a pot or saucepan into the top of which the plate or 
bowl will fit. The saucepan should not be more than half 
full of water. Set the dish or bowl over this ; set the 
saucepan back on the range where the water will be kept 
at boiling point, and let it remain until required. 

By observing these directions, it will be found that most 
dishes will not suffer very much by being kept awhile. 
There are exceptions to the rule. Croquettes do not keep 
hot well in the manner directed. Indeed all fried things 
are spoiled by standing, becoming limp and soggy. They 
should rather be fried at the last moment, or if this is not 
practicable, they may be reheated in the oven, leaving the 
door open and allowing the croquettes to remain only just 
long enough to heat, but not to dry up. 

To reheat an ordinary dish, the hot-water system described 
above should be employed, allowing sufficient time to heat 
slowly. 



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BEEF. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

TO ROAST BEEF. 

ROSBIF. 

The best cut of beef for roasting is the sirloin or English 
cut ; that most commonly used is the rib-roast. The former 
has the tenderloin under the rib-bone. A good piece of 
this, where the filet is fine, should weigh at least 10 to 
12 pounds. 

Of the rib-roast, the third, fourth and fifth are the choice 
cuts. Two ribs " cut full," as the butchers say, will make a 
good-sized roast and weigh about iolbs. It certainly makes 
a more sightly dish of this cut to have the butcher trim 
out the bones and skewer the end around the eye of the 
meat. It lies nicely on the dish, and looks well ; but is 
hardly as sweet as when roasted with the bones left in. If 
the bones are removed, save them for the soup-pot. 

A third cut for roasting which is much used on the con- 
tinent, and very little known here, is the cross-rib ; a solid 
piece of meat, with no bone and only a fair allowance of 
fat. It is a most profitable cut, there being no waste, and it 
certainly contains far richer juices than either of the other 
cuts ; very good qualities in a family where there are many 
children or delicate digestions. 

See that the piece, whatever may be the cut selected, is 

neatly skewered, that, when roasted, it may present a proper 

appearance. Place it in the roasting-pan (unless you are 

blessed with an old-fashioned Dutch oven and can roast be- 

90 



TO ROAST BEEF. 9 1 

fore the fire). With your hand, rub in as much flour all 
over as the meat will hold, letting a little drop on the bottom 
of the pan. Put dots of sweet drippings over the top of the 
roast, using about 2 tablespoonfuls in all. Meanwhile, see 
that your fire is in prime order and will not get too low for 
the two hours to come. Turn all the heat into your best 
oven. When the oven is at its hottest and best, set the 
roasting-pan in. Shut the door and leave it for about 20 
minutes ; by that time it will have begun to brown nicely 
and may require the pan to be turned. If not quite brown 
enough, leave for another 5 or 10 minutes ; then open the 
door, draw out the pan and pour in about I cupful of boiling 
water. Have at hand a long iron spoon with which to baste. 
Baste the meat all over generously. Cover it now with a 
second pan and set it back in the oven. Shut off all the 
extra heat from the oven ; close the draughts, and reduce the 
temperature of the oven to a very moderate heat. Every 10 
or 15 minutes baste again. When nearly done, sprinkle quite 
thickly with salt and pepper and baste again. I can hardly 
say " baste " often enough, as so much of the result of the 
roasting depends upon it. The solid piece of 12 lbs. of beef 
will be done, if the above directions are followed, and the 
fire managed well, in exactly 2 hours. For a less solid 
piece of the same weight (that is, of more surface and less 
thickness), you would allow less time, say 9 minutes in- 
stead of 10 to the pound. For sirloin, allow eight or nine 
minutes, if liked very under-done. This turns out the beef 
brown and juicy outside, delicate rosy-red and juicy inside ; 
no rawness anywhere through it, unless it has been subjected 
to frost, in which case the time cannot be calculated. For 
those who like their beef brown all the way through, no red- 
ness at all left, you must allow 12 minutes at least to the 
pound, but always following the above directions. The 
sense of the matter is this : The first intense heat of the oven 
sears the meat, keeps in the juices, and gives, at the same 
time, a fine color to the surface and to the gravy which flows 
from it. Lessening the degree of heat afterwards, cooks the 



92 GOOD-LIVING. 

inside without further scorching the surfaces ; and covering 
with a second pan keeps in the juices, prevents too much 
evaporation, as well as too much browning. When once the 
idea of roasting is grasped, a most important addition is made 
to one's accomplishments as a cook. Intelligence and prac- 
tice can do much, although the French do say, " II faut etre 
ne rotisseur." 

When the meat is cooked, remove the roast to a hot 
platter. Set the roasting-pan on the top of the range. Pour 
in a few drops of water from the kettle, and stir well to de- 
tach all the nutty-brown particles of flour that may have 
adhered to the pan. Boil and stir for 3 or 4 minutes, then 
strain into a gravy-boat, skimming off all the superfluous fat 
(which you keep for drippings). Let me warn you against 
the melancholy practice, which prevails, of adding flour to 
the roasting-pan to burn and thicken the gravy. This is a 
barbarism and a relic of antiquity. Nothing can be better 
than the pure juices of the meat, and there is no more thick- 
ening really required than the stray particles of flour which 
fell from the meat when first put to roast. These have 
cooked well and browned during the time of roasting, and 
serve to make the gravy as rich as it ought to be. The 
system of thickening with burned, bitter-tasting flour cannot 
be too much discouraged. 

There has recently come into use a double-iron pan for 
roasting, which has a great many good qualities, and settles 
satisfactorily the question and use of covering meats while 
roasting. If used, follow very carefully the directions given 
with it, that the roast may be neither too flabby and steamed, 
nor too dried up. The old-fashioned Dutch oven is, of 
course, the best of all ; the patent roaster, with its clockwork 
to make the roast revolve, is also admirable ; unfortunately 
they are fast disappearing. The time allowed for these is 
slightly more than for the oven, but not more than 1 or 2 
extra minutes to the pound. 

The directions for beef-roasting have been given in detail, 
as the general rules apply equally to nearly all roasted meats, 



A PLAIN BRAISE OR " POT ROAST." 93. 

allowing, of course, the difference of time for the various 
kinds, and will serve as reference in many cases. 

Roast beef may be garnished with fresh-scraped (not 
grated) horseradish (this is the English custom) ; also with 
Yorkshire pudding. 



YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

1 pint of sifted flour, ]/ 2 teaspoonful of salt, 

I " " milk, 4 eggs. 

Put the flour in a large bowl with f of the milk, the salt? 
and eggs. Beat and blend thoroughly ; then add the rest of 
the milk. This quantity may be baked in a pan 12 x 8 x 1 
inch deep. Pour in some of the drippings from the pan in 
which the beef is roasting. When the pan is hot, pour in the 
batter upon the drippings, and bake from 30 to 40 minutes. 
Cut in square pieces and dish around the roast beef. 



A PLAIN BRAISE OR " POT-ROAST" 

Heat an iron pot ; put in a very little sweet drippings 
(for poultry, butter is best) ; when hot, lay in the beef or 
poultry ; if meat, sear it ; if chicken, brown it a delicate gold 
color, uncovered. To this, add a small onion and a small carrot 
chopped and fried in butter till very brown, but not burned. 
Pour in boiling water to barely half the height of the meat or 
chicken ; add salt and pepper, and cover as tightly as 
possible. Thicken the gravy or not, as you prefer. To 
imitate a plain roast, do not thicken it. If thickened, use a 
Roux(see receipt). Simmer 2 to 6 hours, according to weight 
and toughness (see Time-Table). Veal must "be cooked more 
slowly and gently than any other meat, otherwise it becomes 
stringy, and is indigestible. If mutton is tough, it will be 
found a great improvement to beat it thoroughly with a 
rolling-pin before cooking it. 



94 



GOOD-LIVING. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

BCEUF A LA MODE. 



10 lb. piece of beef from the round, 


3 sliced onions, 


2 tablespoons of butter, 


Parsley, 


2 " " flour, 


Boiling water, 


2 carrots, cut in large pieces, 


6 cloves, 


)/ z lb. salt pork, 


Bunch of celery, 


^ lady-finger pepper, without seeds, 


12 allspice, 


i large or 2 small cloves of garlic, 


I bay-leaf, 


I tablespoon of vinegar, 


I gill of sherry. 


"or the force-meat : 




Bread crumbs, 


Chopped onion, 


Spices, 


1 egg, 


Thyme, 


Minced salt pork, 


Butter, 


Pepper, 


Parsley, 


Salt. 



To be perfect, this should be made of a piece from the best 
side of the round, weighing at the very least io (preferably 
12 or 14) lbs., so that it shall not be less than 5^ to 6 inches 
thick when cooked ; but, of course, for a small family, a 
smaller piece can be used, provided it be chunky, not long 
and thin. The cross-rib cut is excellent for this purpose; 
quite as tender, very juicy, and much more compact than a 
piece of round of the same weight. 

If you are in town, have your butcher lard it for you ; if 
in the country, and have to do it yourself, cut strips of fat 
pork 3 or 4 inches by £ an inch thick. Make incisions 
with a sharp knife at equal distances of about 2 inches, and 
insert the strips of pork. Repeat this operation on the sec- 
ond side of the beef. Here and there make incisions and 
stuff in a little force-meat very highly flavored with parsley, 
thyme, and a little chopped onion. The force-meat may be 
made of bread-crumbs, etc. (see list of ingredients). Now tie 
the beef very neatly in a round, with strips of muslin or 
tape ; string of any kind gives it a ribbed, ugly appearance 
when cooked. 

Heat an iron pot a little larger than your beef. Throw in 



BEEF A LA MODE. 95 

a few slices of salt pork. When the fat is melted, and the 
pot fiercely hot, push the pork aside and lay in the beef. 
Do not cover. Let it sear 10 minutes on one side, then turn 
and sear 10 minutes on the other side. The fire must be 
intensely hot during this operation ; if not, the beef must 
sear a few minutes longer. This keeps in the juices of the 
meat. In a separate frying-pan, fry meanwhile 2 or 3 sliced 
onions in butter. When the beef is turned on its second 
side, throw the onions upon it. Then put into the same 
frying-pan 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour; stir 
together until of a rich brown color, but do not burn ; then 
add by degrees enough boiling water to blend it. Pour this 
over the beef, when the latter has been long enough on the 
second side. Add to the pot sufficient boiling water to half 
cover the beef. Let it come to a smart boil. Add 2 carrots 
and a bunch of celery, cut in pieces, a bunch of parsley, 
6 cloves, 12 allspice, \ a lady-finger pepper (without seeds), 
1 bay-leaf, 1 large or two small cloves of garlic, I tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar. Cover the pot as tightly as possible to keep 
in the steam. If necessary, wrap a cloth around the top to 
prevent the escape of steam. Set on the back of the range 
where it will keep up a steady, gentle simmer. It must cook 
very slowly. Indeed this is the most important rule for this 
mode of cooking. After the first 2 or 3 minutes, it must 
cook very slowly ; were it to boil, it would become stringy 
and go to pieces, instead of melting into tenderness and 
retaining its juices and its shape perfectly. For 10 lbs. 
allow 6 hours. If it is done before that time you may know 
that you have cooked it too fast. This includes the time 
taken for the searing. Watch it well, and if your fire has 
been too quick, and it is done before the allotted 6 hours, 
set it aside where it will keep hot, but not cook any more. 
When it is time to serve the beef, remove it to a hot 
platter; pick out some of the best pieces of vegetable to 
garnish the dish ; skim and strain the gravy ; add seasonings 
and 1 gill of wine. Pour a little gravy over the beef, and 
serve the rest in a sauce-boat, Treasure every drop of it. 



g6 GOOD-LIVING. 



N. B. — Should the gravy steam away in the cooking, you 
can add a little boiling water now and again, but very little at 
a time. The gravy should be delicious. 

Beef a la Mode is really much better cold than hot. If you 
want to serve it cold, manage it in this way : When you have 
dished your meat and strained the gravy, return to the pot 
all the thick part left in the strainer ; add to it a little broth 
or boiling water. Stir and boil for a few minutes. When 
you want to put away the beef, lay it in a deep bowl, mix all 
the gravy that remains with the broth in the pot ; strain the 
whole over the beef ; shut up tight to keep in the steam, and 
set away in a cool place. This is a very simple way of mak- 
ing a delicious dish. It will keep for several days in winter. 



BRAISED BEEF, OR BEEF EN DA UBE. 

BCEUF BRAISE OR EN DAUBE. 

Is treated almost exactly the same as Beef a la Mode, ex- 
cept that it need not be larded. The cross-rib cut is excel- 
lent for this ; but for that matter almost any of the usual 
cuts may be used. The " horseshoe " does very well also, 
if cooked slowly enough and long enough. For the real 
daube, however, use the cross-rib. Sear as described in the 
receipt for Beef a la Mode, after tying up the piece neatly. 
Add the same vegetables and seasonings, and i cup of 
stewed tomatoes. The same remarks also apply to the 
mode of cooking. Allow 5 hours for 8 lbs., 6 hours for 10 
lbs. Watch it, and see that it cooks slowly enough. For a 
family dinner, serve with the vegetables, as they are excel- 
lent ; otherwise, serve without the vegetables. 

Braising (or "pot-roasting") is a most useful process of 
cooking, as it serves for nearly every kind of meat and poul- 
try, and is an excellent resource when one is not perfectly 
certain that one's joint is very tender. Try the same process 
for rabbits, pigeons, poultry, veal, and mutton. 



ou 



ROASTED FILET, ETC. gf 

BOILED BEEF. 

BOUILLI. 

Select what is called by the butchers the " horseshoe " 
piece. It should weigh at least 8 lbs., and from that to io or 
12. Put it into a large pot, and cover it with cold water, al- 
lowing i quart to each pound of meat. Bring gradually to a 
boil. Set on one side of the range where it will simmer 
steadily, without a moment's intermission, until done. Al- 
low from 32 to 35 minutes per lb., counting from the time 
the beef is put on the fire, not (as usual) from the time 
the water begins to boil. Calculate the time, and 2 hours 
before it is to be done, add 2 or 3 carrots, cut in strips, a 
large bunch of celery-leaves or head of same, 2 or 3 onions, 
parsley, I or 2 leaves of cabbage (if winter), 2 or 3 turnips, 
cut and trimmed neatly, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. When 
the beef is done (it should be cooked until almost, but not 
quite, ready to go to pieces), remove it to a hot dish. Have 
ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Pour some of the 
sauce over the beef ; arrange some of the vegetables around, 
and serve the rest of the Tomato Sauce in a boat. This is 
the national dish of the French people, and it is really excel- 
lent, if properly cooked. Allow the broth to boil down 
to one half or one third of its original quantity ; strain and 
set away. Some of it may be served, if necessary, the same 
day, with the vegetables boiled -with it cut in fine pieces, 
mixed and served on a separate dish (see Pot-au-feu). A few 
pieces of dry toast should be put into the tureen. 

ROASTED FILET OF BEEF, LARDED. 

FILET DE BCEUF PIQUE. 

Trim the filet neatly, removing every shred of the muscu- 
lar covering from the meat. Cut narrow strips of fat salt 
pork and throw them into a bowl of ice-water to harden. 
Use a larding-needle. Place a strip of the pork in the open 
end of the needle, pushing it in as far as it will go. With this 

7 



98 GOOD-LIVING. 

take a stitch on the uppermost side of the filet, the stitch be- 
ing about 1 inch long, penetrating the meat only about % 
an inch. Put your finger on the end of the strip of pork 
and draw it out of the needle, leaving the ends of the pork 
exposed about \ an inch at either end of the. stitch. Repeat 
this in even rows all down the centre of the side that is to 
stand uppermost ; begin a new row then about I inch 
apart ; try to make the ends of the new row come opposite 
the spaces in the first row. Repeat these rows until all the 
upper side is filled (or your patience exhausted). They 
must look very neat and even. In the bottom of a baking- 
pan lay 1 small onion, small carrot, stick or two of celery, all 
cut in pieces, 4 cloves, and 1 bay-leaf. Lay the filet on this 
bed, larded side uppermost. Dredge with pepper, and put 
bits of butter over the top. In the pan put about 4 table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water. Bake in a quick oven, basting 
frequently, for about 45 minutes. Some authorities say 30 
minutes, if the oven is very quick. It must feel quite elastic 
under pressure, as it is always eaten underdone. Remove 
the filet to a hot platter. Put in the pan 1 tablespoonful of 
butter and 2 of flour ; stir them together over the fire until 
brown. Add I pint of broth, including the strained pan- 
gravy. Stir. Boil 5 minutes. Strain ; add 1 pint of fresh 
or canned mushrooms ; cook 5 minutes, then remove from 
the fire ; add I teaspoonful of Worcestershire Sauce, 1 
tablespoonful of sherry, salt and pepper to taste. Pour it 
around the filet and serve. 

BROILED FILETS MIGNONS. 

FILETS MIGNONS GRILLES. 

Cut the filet crosswise in slices f- of an inch to 1 inch thick. 
Remove all fibres and muscles from the outer edges. Have 
the gridiron very hot under a fine, clear fire. Place a drip- 
ping-pan beneath to catch the juices that will fall from 
the filets. Dip these on both sides in good olive oil and lay 
on the gridiron. In | a minute turn them. Keep on turn- 



FILET OF BEEF BRAISED. 99 

them from side to side, leaving no one side longer than the 
other. They will take about 8 minutes under an intense 
fire. Have ready a tablespoonful of butter (or more accord- 
ing to the number of filets) rubbed up with an equal quan- 
tity of chopped parsley and the juice of \ a lemon. As the 
filets are cooked, place them on a hot dish, spread them 
thickly with this Maitre d' Hotel Butter ; sprinkle with pep- 
per and salt. Cover with a second hot dish and stand in the 
open oven door for 2 or 3 minutes before serving, that the 
butter may melt. Add the juices from the pan. The filets 
should be dished in a circle, one overlapping the other. Fill 
the centre with parsley, or with some delicate puree, or fresh 
peas. Or serve "with Madeira Sauce, with chopped truffles 
and mushrooms. 



FILE T OF BEEF BRAISED. 

FILET DE BCEUF BRAISE. 

I filet, 2 carrots, sliced, 

1 onion, sliced, }i turnip, " 

Sprig of thyme, Parsley, 

Stick of celery or leaves, 3 cloves, 

Salt and pepper, 6 allspices, 

Salt pork. 1 gill of sherry or white wine. 

Cut the salt pork in long narrow strips and throw into a 
bowl of cold water to harden. Lard the side that is to stand 
uppermost. Use a larding-needle. Proceed as directed in 
receipt for Roasted Filet of Beef Larded. The larding 
must be very evenly and neatly done. It is one of the 
finesses of cookery that requires to be demonstrated, at 
least once, by one who has the knack of it ; description is not 
of very much assistance. Having larded the upper side, 
then, proceed with the mode of cooking as follows : 

Choose a pot with a cover to fit, or a double pan that will 
fit in your oven. Having cut up the vegetables, fry them 
slightly in a frying-pan with a little butter ; lay these in the 
pan in which you are to cook the filet, larding uppermost ; 



IOO GOOD-LIVING. 

add the spices and seasoning, wine, and only enough boiling- 
water to quite half-cover the filet. Close it tightly. Bring 
it to a boil, then set it back where it will barely simmer for 
I hour to I hour and 20 minutes, according to the weight 
and thickness of the filet. Then remove the cover of the 
pot ; set in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, basting fre- 
quently. The meat should, when done, be slightly elastic 
under the pressure of the fork. Never pierce meat to see if 
it is cooked ; after very little experience you will be able to 
tell by the firmness or slight elasticity under pressure 
whether the meat is thoroughly done or slightly underdone. 
When ready to remove the filet to a hot dish, strain the gravy 
into a boat, skim and serve. This is a pe'rfectly plain, un- 
garnished filet, deliciously flavored and juicy. It is never as 
red and soft as when simply roasted, but is none the less 
good for all that. On the contrary, the above mode of treat- 
ing a filet will be a revelation of new delights to those who 
only know the soft, water-soaked, tasteless mass that most 
filets are when cooked by the commonplace cook. Having 
the foundation well-prepared, you can garnish the filet in 
any of the various ways directed below. 



FILET BRAISE A UX CHAMPIGNONS. 

Braise the filet as directed. Have ready 1 can of French 
mushrooms, or half a pound of fresh mushrooms skinned and 
slightly stewed in butter. When the sauce is strained, as 
above directed, put it into a saucepan with some of the 
liquor of the mushrooms ; make a roux of 1 small teaspoon 
of butter and 1 of flour well browned over the fire. Blend 
the boiling sauce into the roux. Stir. Add the mushrooms 
and 1 gill of white wine or sherry. Boil 3 to 5 minutes and 
serve with the filet. If the mushrooms are fresh, try not to 
break them in cooking ; place them around the filet as a gar- 
nish ; put a little sauce on the dish and serve the rest in a 
sauce-boat. 



FILET AUX TOMATES FARCIES. IOI 

FILET BRAISE, MADEIRA SAUCE. 

FILET BRAISE SAUCE MADERE. 

Braise the filet as directed. Strain off the sauce. Add 
to it an equal quantity of rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt), 
and boil down for 5 minutes. Add one gill of sherry and 
serve. Add also, if liked, mushrooms and truffles chopped 
fine. 

FILET BRAISE AUX TRUFFES. 

Braise the filet as directed. Make the sauce as indicated 
above (Madeira Sauce). To this add some of the best truf- 
fles that you can buy, cut in not too thin slices. 

N. B. — Never buy any but the best truffles, from the most 
reliable, first-class dealers, as there is a great deal of falsifica- 
tion in this article, and the false truffles are very unwhole- 
some. 

FILET BRAISE A LA SOUBISE. 

Braise the filet as directed, and serve on a Soubise Sauce 
(see receipt). 

FILET BEARNAISE. 

Braise the filet as directed and serve with a Sauce B£ar- 
naise (see receipt). 

FILE TAUX TOM A TES FARCIES. 

This is a most dainty dish. Braise the filet as directed. 
Select some small fresh tomatoes of uniform size ; cut off the 
stem-end and scoop out all the soft inside. Make a dressing of 
chopped mushrooms, a tiny bit of finely-chopped or pounded 
garlic (or grated onion), chopped parsley ; have the bulk of all 
this in stale bread-crumbs, and a large lump of butter, salt, 
and cayenne. Put the mixture in a saucepan and stir until 
the butter melts and becomes absorbed. Fill the tomatoes 
with this dressing and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the top. 
Lay the tomatoes in a saucepan that will fit in the oven ; put 



102 GOOD-LIVING. 

a piece of butter and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of broth in the 
saucepan. Place the saucepan in the oven and bake for 20 
to 30 minutes ; longer if the tomatoes are large. Remove 
the cover and leave the tomatoes in the oven until they are 
slightly browned. When the filet is ready, strain the gravy ; 
thicken it slightly with a roux of 1 small teaspoon of butter 
and 1 of flour browned over the fire. Blend the boiling 
gravy into it. Boil 5 minutes. Add a little wine. Place 
the filet in the middle of the dish, the tomatoes around, and 
serve the gravy in a boat. Add any juices that may remain 
in the saucepan in which the tomatoes were cooked. Garnish 
the dish with parsley, etc., and serve. 

TO BROIL A BEEFSTEAK. 

BIFTEK. 

The best cut unquestionably is the porter-house steak ; the 
next best is the sirloin (of which in turn, there is a choice of 
cuts) ; this is always a large steak, weighing from 3 to 4^ lbs., 
and it is not all profitable for broiling, there being quite a 
long, coarse end which is only fit for stewing, etc. The 
second best small steak, weighing from 1 to 2 lbs., is the 
rib-steak, and also the " short-steak ; " the most nutritious 
and profitable, of course, is the round. The latter must 
always be well-beaten and broiled quickly. If beaten enough, 
it is excellent, the meat being much richer than the finer cuts. 
The porter-house to be perfect should be cut very thick, 1 
inch at least to 1^. 

If large, the steak should under no circumstances be broiled 
over the fire. Before beginning, see that the fire is clear 
and clean. Place the gridiron where it will heat very hot. 
Grease it. Lay the steak upon it, and in about 1 minute 
turn it over. It must be turned very often, one side remain- 
ing no longer than the other. An ordinary steak f- of an inch 
thick should not require more than 8 or 10 minutes, to be 
served done through, but red and juicy. Do not pierce it 
with a fork to ascertain if it is done ; press it with the flat 



BRAISED BEEFSTEAK WITH BROWN GRAVY. 103 

side of a knife or fork, and if only slightly elastic, it is done 
enough. The firmer it is under pressure, the more cooked it 
is. It should be served as described, red and juicy. Have 
ready a tablespoonful of butter rubbed up with a tablespoon- 
ful of chopped parsley and juice of \ a lemon. When the 
steak is cooked, place it on a hot platter, and butter it over 
with this Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Place it in the oven with 
the door shut for I minute to melt the butter ; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper and serve. Of course a large sirloin steak 
will require longer to cook. If the fire is very clear and free 
from gas, the small steaks may be broiled over it ; but the 
practice should be discouraged as much as possible, as it is 
the cause of much black, smoked meat, and of a very un- 
pleasant flavor of coal-gas, if not managed by a careful, 
clever cook. 

BROILED STEAK A LA SHREWSBURY. 
Broil a thick porter-house steak as directed. Select fine, 
large, fresh mushrooms. Peel the tops, scrape the stalk and 
cut it off about half an inch from the top. Lay these upper- 
side down on a hot broiler and broil until tender ; they will 
not require more than 5 minutes. Turn, but broil longest 
on the upper side. Have some butter softened ; baste the 
mushrooms with this. Dish them around the beefsteak. 
Pour more butter over them ; sprinkle with salt and pepper 
and serve. 

BRAISED BEEFSTEAK WITH BROWN GRAVY. 

BIFTEK BRAISE AUX HUITRES. 

$}i lbs. of round steak, 1^ oz. of flour, 

2 gills of oysters, 3 oz. of butter, 

2 " "water, 1 teaspoon of pepper, 

1 gill of wine, 3 teaspoons of salt, 

2 blades of mace, ^ teaspoon of summer savory, 

3 cloves, 4 allspice, 1 onion, grated. 

The beef must be in one solid piece. The " horseshoe " or 
" cross-rib " both being good for this purpose. Mix the salt, 
pepper, and summer savory with the onion ; rub the beef well 



104 GOOD-LIVING. 

with it on both sides ; lay it in the kettle with the water, 
wine, spices and I oz. of the butter rubbed with half an oz. 
of flour. Cover closely and simmer gently until the beef is 
tender, which will take from 2 to 3 hours, or, if the beef is 
tough, possibly a little more. It must be cooked very slowly. 
When tender, heat the frying-pan very hot, melt in it a little 
piece of the butter ; lay the beef in the butter, turn once, 
fiying until the outside is browned. Be careful not to harden 
it. Then fry the oysters in the same pan. Lay the beef on 
a platter with the oysters. Strain the gravy into the frying- 
pan (there should be about I pint) ; rub the rest of the flour 
smooth with a few drops of cold water ; stir it into the boiling 
gravy, and boil for 5 minutes ; longer if not quite thick enough. 
Pour over the beef and serve. 

BEEFSTEAK PUDDING OR POT-PIE. 

Beefsteak from the round, Salt and pepper, 

Butter and flour, 6 onions, parboiled, 

I teaspoon of mushroom catsup, yi gill of water. 

The steak selected should be pounded almost to a pulp, 
then pressed back into a proper thickness and cut in pieces 2 
by 5 inches. Season with salt and pepper. Butter a tin 
mould that will hold I quart ; or use a china bowl if pre- 
ferred. Make a good meat-pie paste (see receipts for Suet, 
Potato or Good Plain Paste). Line the mould, letting the 
paste lap over the edge. Dredge the beef with flour, and lay 
it in the mould with the small onions parboiled, the catsup 
and water. Wet the edges of the paste ; place a cover of 
paste over; press the edges together closely, and tie the 
mould in a clean cloth. Have ready on the fire a pot of 
boiling water. Place the mould in it, top uppermost, and 
boil for 4 hours. When cooked, turn it out and serve. A 
crust may be made by mixing baking-powder with flour .in 
the proportions of I teaspoonful of powder to I cup of flour; 
allow \ a pound of mixed lard and butter to I pound of the 
flour. Crumb the butter, lard and flour together ; add enough 
cold water to make the paste just soft enough to roll out. If 



BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS NO. II. 105 

this crust is not rich enough, add a larger proportion of short- 
ening. Always sift the baking-powder with the flour, before 
mixing the flour with the shortening. Roll the under-crust 
about \ an inch thick, the top crust I inch, or nearly. It 
will swell of course ; but for this sort of pie it is well to have 
the crust thick. 

The same receipt may be used for Chicken Pot-pie or Veal 
Pot-pie, using a little ham with either, adding a pinch of 
thyme to the seasoning. 

BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS NO I. 

Beefsteak, porter-house or round, Pinch of flour, 

6 onions, cut fine, 1 pint of water, 

2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

y^, teaspoon of pepper. 

Stew the onions in a saucepan with the water, butter, and 
seasonings ; dredge in a little flour, and stir it through the 
onions. When the onions are very tender, lay in the sauce- 
pan a well-broiled beefsteak, and stew together for 10 min- 
utes. If round-steak is used, beat it almost to a pulp with 
the rolling-pin ; cut off the skin, and, when beaten, press back 
into shape and into a proper thickness before broiling. Do 
not on any consideration fry the steak. When finished, 
dish the steak and cover it all over with the onions. The 
onions will require nearly an hour of very gentle stewing to 
cook them tender. 

BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS NO. II. 

BIFTEK AUX OGNONS. 

2^ lbs. of round steak, 6 or 8 onions, sliced, 

Butter or sweet drippings, Flour, 

2 teaspoons of vinegar, Pepper, and salt. 

Have the steak cut from the upper side of the round, \\ 
to 2 inches thick. Heat an iron pot very hot indeed ; put in 
a tablespoonful of butter or drippings, and when hot lay in 
the steak. In 3 or 4 minutes turn the steak on the other 
side and sear it for about the same time. Meanwhile put I 
tablespoonful of butter or drippings into a frying-pan with 



106 GOOD-LIVING. 

the onions cut in slices ; dredge over with flour, and fry 
until slightly browned. Turn them into the pot with the 
beef ; add salt and pepper and enough boiling water to half 
cover the beef. Cover the pot. Bring to a boil briskly, 
then set back where it will only simmer very gently for \\ to 
2 hours. Or, you can cover the pot very closely and set it 
in the oven for the same length of time, turning the meat 
once. If the fire is not too strong the beef will be very 
tender cooked in this way. A little boiling water may be 
added if the gravy evaporates too fast. Dish the beefsteak 
with the onions covering it completely. There should be 
quite a good quantity of gravy when it is cooked. Pour this 
over also. N. B. — This is a Beefsteak and Onions so deli- 
cate and inoffensive that very few can fail to like it, where 
the first receipt might be found too rich. 

SCOTCH ROLL. 

5 lbs. flank of beef, I tablespoon of sugar, 

y^, teaspoon of pepper, 3 tablespoons of salt, 

1/3 " " ground cloves, 3 " " vinegar, 

Pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoon powdered summer savory. 

Remove the tough skin from the flank ; even it off 
in thickness and shape with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the 
spices, etc., over it. Roll up and tie well with a tape or 
strips of muslin. Set aside 12 hours. Then put into a stew- 
pan ; cover with water and simmer 3^ hours. Thicken 
the gravy with flour and boil ■§- an hour longer ; 4 hours 
in all. Should you prefer to use corn-starch instead of flour 
to thicken the gravy, add it 3 minutes before removing from 
the fire. This is especially good eaten cold. 

HAMBURG STEAKS. 

Take 1 pound of steak from the upper round; hackle or chop 
it very fine. Add to it I tablespoonful of onion-juice or grated 
onion, \ a teaspoonful of salt and some pepper ; mix well. 
Wet the hands with cold water, and form the meat into balls 
of about 2 tablespoonfuls each. This will make about 8. 
Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan ; when it is 
very hot, put in the steaks ; in one or two minutes turn them 



BEEF MARINE. I07 

over. Brown equally on both sides. In about 6 minutes 
remove them to a hot dish ; put one tablespoonful of flour 
into the pan ; mix it smooth with the butter that remains 
after cooking the steaks ; add \ a pint of boiling water, stir 
until it boils ; add salt and pepper ; boil 3 minutes ; pour 
over the steaks and serve. 

BEEF MARINE. 

BCEUF MARINE. 

4 lbs. of beef, from round or shoulder, 2 bay-leaves, 

4 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 onion, 

1 tablespoon of vinegar, Juice of one lemon, 

y 2 teaspoon of ground cloves, Cayenne, 

X " " " mace, 1 teaspoon of ground allspice, 

Yz teaspoon of salt. 

Mix the spices, salt, and pepper ; with this rub both sides 
of the beef; mix together the oil, vinegar, lemon-juice, and 
melted butter ; pour this over the meat in an earthen dish. 
Let stand 24 hours in summer ; longer if you choose, say 3 
days, in winter, turning, in the former case once, in the latter 
once each day, and keep in a cold place. Then put it, with 
all the juices and spices, into a stewpan ; add the bay-leaves, 
1 tablespoonful more of vinegar, a pinch of sugar, and I 
clove of garlic. Half cover with boiling water. Fry the 
onions brown in butter ; add them to the beef. Then mix 
together until brown, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of 
flour ; blend with a little boiling water and add also to the 
beef, stirring it in. Cover closely and set in the oven for 
about 2 hours, turning the beef once when half-cooked. 
When ready, remove the beef to a hot dish ; set the pan on 
the top of the range. If the gravy has cooked away too 
much, add a little boiling water ; stir it around ; boil for a 
few minutes, then strain through a fine strainer ; put a little 
over the meat and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 

The " brisket " and " plate-piece " are both best when cooked 
in this way. The latter is most frequently corned, in which 
case boil it. It must be uncorned to cook as above directed. 
If either of these cuts is used the gravy must be carefully 
skimmed. Allow 25 to 30 minutes per pound. 



108 GOOD-LIVING. 

BEEF ROULETTE. 

BCEUF EN ROULETTE. 

2 lbs. upper round, cut thin, 2 chopped onions, 

2 tablespoons of flour, Butter, 

j]/2 pints boiling water, 2 cloves, 

}£ teaspoon of pepper, I cup of tomatoes. 

Mix for dressing : 

I cup of chopped ham, 2 eggs, 

I teaspoon of mixed mustard, I gill of stale bread-crumbs, 

Sufficient stock or water to make a paste, Cayenne, salt. 

Spread the dressing on the thin slices of beef. Roll up 
and tie with tape or strips of muslin firmly but not too 
tightly. Roll in flour. Fry to a good color in fat of pork 
or ham, drippings or butter. Put into a saucepan. Fry the 
chopped onions in butter till yellow. Add the flour. Stir 
5 minutes ; add the boiling water. Stir. Pour over the 
meat. Add the other seasonings. Simmer gently for 3 
hours. Keep covered. When half done, turn over. Dish ; 
strain the gravy over and serve. 

BEEF ROLL. 

ROULEAU DE BCEUF. 

Make a rich biscuit-crust ; roll out half an inch thick ; 
spread thickly with dressing for Beef Roulette, (see receipt) 
to which add an equal bulk of minced cold beef ; roll up ; 
put into a long loaf-pan with the lap uppermost and bake 
about 30 minutes. When nearly done, draw it to the mouth 
of the oven ; brush over with egg ; return to the oven until 
nicely browned, and serve with Brown Sauce. Excellent. 

OX- TA ILS A LA TA R TA RE. 

QUEUES DE BCEUF A LA TARTARE. 

Cut the tails in 4 inch lengths. Boil. When done, re- 
move from the fire. When cold, dip in egg and bread-crumbs 
and fry golden brown. See General Directions for Frying. 
Serve with Tartare Sauce (see receipt). 



KIDNEYS STEWED. 109 

BEEF STEW WITH OKRA. 

RAGOUT DE BGEUF AU GUMBO. 

3 lbs. of lean beef, 3 onions, cut fine, 

1 quart of tomatoes, peeled and sliced, Salt and pepper, 

6 ears of corn, cut and scraped from cob, 2 oz. of butter, 

1^ pints of okra, cut not too small. 

Leave the beef in one solid piece. It should be a chunky- 
cut from the cross-rib, horseshoe or sirloin-butt. Place it 
over a moderate fire in a pot with water enough to cover the 
meat. Add the tomatoes, okra, onions, corn ; season with 
salt and pepper. Add butter and stew very gently for 3 or 
4 hours, until the meat is perfectly tender and the vegetables 
have become a thick pur6e. Dish the beef in the centre and 
vegetables around. N. B. — A good summer dish. 

SMOKED BEEF WITH CREAM, FOR BREAKFAST. 

1 lb. of smoked beef, cut thin, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 

1% gills of cream, Pepper. 

Put the beef into a saucepan with cold water; let it heat 
slowly. When it comes to a boil drain off the water. This 
takes away a good deal of the salt, which is sometimes ex- 
cessive. Add the cream ; or use instead the same quantity 
of Cream or White Sauce (see receipts). Season with pep- 
per ; add a very little salt if required. Simmer 10 minutes 
very gently, and serve on slices of toast. 

KIDNE YS S TE WED. 

ROGNONS DE BOEUF SAUTES. 

1 pair of kidneys, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

yi pint of stock, 1 " " flour, 

Salt and pepper, 1 " " mushroom catsup, 

I tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, 4 " " sherry, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Be sure, first of all, that the kidneys are perfectly fresh. 
Split them in half ; take out the white fat and the sinew 
from the centre. Put them into a stewpan ; cover with cold 
water and set on a moderate fire until the water almost 



I IO GOOD-LIVING. 

boils. Drain this water off ; cut into small pieces ; cover 
again with cold water and heat again. Do this three times 
in all, being careful that the water never really boils, or the 
kidneys will harden. Meanwhile put I tablespoonful of but- 
ter and I of flour into a frying-pan and stir until brown ; then 
stir in gradually the boiling stock or water. Blend and stir 
with a wooden spoon until it has boiled 3 minutes. Add 
Worcestershire sauce, catsup, salt and pepper, and the 
kidney. Stir again until the kidney is thoroughly heated ; 
remove from the fire ; stir in the sherry and serve with 
chopped parsley sprinkled over the top. N. B. — Take note 
that the kidneys are not allowed at any time to boil, being 
very much like eggs in the fact that the more they cook the 
harder they become. 

BEEF'S LIVER. 

May be prepared according to any of the receipts given 
for calf's liver, if it is directed to be used in slices. Before 
cooking it, however, pour boiling water over the slices ; 
allow them to stand for 5 minutes ; then wipe dry and cook. 

KIDNEYS A LA TERRAPIN. 

ROGNONS A LA TERRAPIN. 

1 kidney, I tablespoon of butter, 

1 egg, 1 " " flour, 

Yz pint of new milk, i " " chopped parsley, 

Salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons of sherry. 

Prepare the kidney as for stewing. When scalded 3 
times make the following sauce : Stir together the flour and 
butter in a saucepan over the fire, but do not brown ; blend 
with the boiling milk ; stir and boil 3 minutes. Cut the kid- 
ney in small slices or pieces ; add salt and pepper ; stir 
until the kidney is thoroughly heated ; remove from the 
fire ; add the yolk of 1 egg, the sherry and parsley ; serve 
immediately. 



TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE. Ill 

BRAISED TONGUE. 

LANGUE DE BGEUF BRAISEE. 

I fresh tongue, boiled 2 hours, Butter, 

1 quart of liquor, in which the tongue was Flour, 
boiled, i clove. 

Bunch of sweet herbs, Salt, 

Small stick of cinnamon, " Pepper, 

2 onions, cut fine, Juice of i lemon, 
.1 turnip, " " I carrot, cut fine. 

When the tongue has been boiled as above and trimmed, 
fasten the tip around against the thick part (as you would 
roll a rib-roast), tying or skewering firmly. Fry the vege- 
tables until brown in butter. Remove from the pan and set 
aside. Flour the tongue all over and put into the hot pan 
with the butter. Turn it on all sides until browned slightly. 
Put the tongue and all the other ingredients, except the 
lemon-juice, into a pot which will fit in the oven. Close the 
lid as tightly as possible to keep in the steam. Place the 
pot in the oven. After \\ hours open the pot, turn the 
tongue and add the lemon-juice. Close as before and leave 
\ an hour longer in the oven. Now put the tongue on a 
hot dish and set it over hot water while you boil down the 
gravy for 20 or 30 minutes, until of a good strength. If it is 
not quite thick enough, mix a heaping teaspoonful of corn- 
starch with a little cold water, stir it into the boiling gravy 
and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Strain some of the gravy over the 
tongue ; serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 

TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF FUMEE. 

Soak the tongue overnight in cold water. Next morning 
scrape and clean it thoroughly. Put it on the fire well-cov- 
ered with cold water. Boil very gently until the small bones 
in the root can be easily pulled out — about 4 hours. Then 
lift off the pot and set it away until the water is cold ; then 
take out the tongue, trim off the coarse unsightly parts, skin 



112 GOOD-LIVING. 

and serve. Keep some of the water in which it has been 
boiled, and when it is put away cold, let it be covered with 
this, and it will retain its freshness and succulence. Or, wrap 
it in a coarse, clean cloth, and put it in the ice-box. 

JELLIED TONGUE. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF EN GELEE. 

Tongue, Gelatine (Cox), 

Consomme' or Broth, Wine and spices. 

Having cleared the Consomme (see receipt), boil it down 
with a few spices until strong and well-flavored. If it is 
strong consomme, made with veal, or chicken and beef, it 
may jelly firmly enough when cold. If, however, you use 
Broth, dissolve the gelatine in cold water for I hour, allowing 
I box of Cox's gelatine to 3 pints of liquid. Pour the boil- 
ing broth over the gelatine ; stir a few minutes over the fire 
until thoroughly dissolved. Strain. Add wine to taste. It 
should measure at this stage 3 pints for 1 box of gelatine. 
Have ready a mould with the cold boiled tongue, either 
whole or neatly sliced ; pour the jelly over and set away to 
harden. Turn out and garnish with parsley and lemon. 

FRESH TONGUE BRAISED WITH PUREE OF 
POTATOES. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE ; PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE. 

Prepare according to receipt for Braised Tongue. Make a 
soft puree of potatoes with plenty of butter or rich cream. 
Lay a thick bed of this on a round platter and place the 
tongue upon it. Serve with the sauce in a boat. 

BRAISED TONGUE WITH SAUCE TARTARE. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE TARTARE. 

Braise the tongue as directed, and serve with Sauce Tartare 
(see receipt). 



CORN-BEEF. 113 

BRAISED TONGUE WITH PUREE OF SPINACH. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, PUREE D'EPINARDS. 

Braise the tongue as directed. Serve on a Puree of 
Spinach (see receipt). 

BRAISED TONGUE WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Braise the tongue as directed. Serve with a rich Tomato 
Sauce (see receipt). 

BRAISED TONGUE WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

Braise the tongue as directed. Serve with Sauce Piquante 
(see receipt). 

BOSTON BROWN HASH FOR BREAKFAST. 

Chop any remnants of steak, roast, or stew very fine. Put 
a layer of mashed potatoes in the bottom of a deep buttered 
dish ; then a layer of the meat, then a layer of stale bread- 
crumbs. Sprinkle with salt and pepper ; dot the top with 
bits of butter ; moisten with \ a cupful of gravy ; cover with 
another layer of potatoes. Smooth the top with a knife 
dipped in milk. Bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes until 
well-browned. Serve hot. 

HASH BAKED IN A MOULD. 

Prepare the meat as for Corn-Beef Hash. Butter a quart 
mould; pack the hash in it and bake 1 hour in the oven. 
Turn it out and serve. 

CORN-BEEF. 

The most popular cut for this is the rump, a three-cor- 
nered piece with sweet fat, but at least one third bone. The 
best and most profitable, as well as the most delicate, cut, is 



1 14 GOOD-LIVING. 

that from the lower round ; a long, narrow piece perfectly 
free from bone, and much more sightly. It costs a little 
more per pound, but it is quite worth the difference. The 
plate and navel pieces are also excellent in their own way, but 
should be eaten cold, not hot. 

Put the corn-beef down to boil in a large pot of cold 
water. Let it be well covered. Bring it gradually to a boil. 
When well started, set aside to cook very gently — simmer, 
not boil. Allow 20 to 25 minutes to the pound, counting 
from the time when the water begins to boil. Calculate the 
time, and when it is within 2 hours of being cooked, add 2 
or 3 turnips, carrots, celery leaves, 1 or 2 onions, or 1 clove 
of garlic. Finish the cooking. Dish with the vegetables 
around. Keep the water in which the beef has boiled. When 
it is ready to be set away, return it to the pot of broth ; cover 
and set away to cool. The difference made by this system is 
incredible, the beef being deliciously tender when served cold. 
If not too salt, use the broth as soup with a puree of potatoes, 
beans, or peas, etc. Serve the beef, if liked, with cabbage, but 
never boil the cabbage with the beef, as it renders both very 
indigestible. To be good, corn-beef should be boiled until as 
tender as chicken. The secret of this is, to cook it slowly 
and long. 

CORN-BEEF HASH. 

Chop the meat fine, rejecting all hard gristle. Add half 
the bulk of potatoes chopped not too fine. (N. B. The pota- 
toes for this should always be boiled with their skins on and 
not allowed to be peeled until they are cold.) Put into a 
saucepan a lump of butter as large as an egg, for a moderate 
amount of hash. Add a few spoonfuls of boiling water ; 
when bubbling, put in the meat and potatoes mixed, very 
little salt and plenty of pepper. Let it heat ; stir now and 
again, but be careful not to mash the potatoes. Then let it 
stand still 10 or 15 minutes until it forms a crust at the 
bottom. Form it into a neat loaf shape. Do not let it get 
too dry. Loosen it from the pan with a cake turner ,• turn a 






CORN-BEEF CROQUETTES. 1 15 

warm platter over it ; turn pan and dish together quickly and 
serve. Only put toast under if the hash is scant in quantity 
or not browned. A half onion grated is esteemed by some 
a valuable addition ; if used, see that it is grated and not 
chopped, as the common practice is : and a mistaken one it is 
too, for the onion, of course, remains quite raw. A few 
tablespoonfuls of stewed tomatoes and a few celery and 
parsley leaves chopped very fine make a delicious addition to 
the above. Recommended. 

Chicken Hash may be prepared as above, without brown- 
ing; also Turkey Hash. 

CORN-BEEF CROQUETTES. 

1% lbs. of mashed potatoes, 10 oz. of beef, chopped fine, 

iyi oz. of butter, 4 oz. of stale bread or cracker, 

y£ gill of cream, I tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Pinch of grated nutmeg, Salt and pepper, 

2 eggs, Cup of lard. 

Pass the potato through a colander. When the beef is 
chopped very fine, add the butter to the hot potato, then the 
cream, 1 egg, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Beat thoroughly 
together. Now mix the beef (without gristle) with the rest ; 
make it into rolls 1X2 inches long. (Be sure the surface 
is smooth.) Place them on a floured tin and let them stand 
in the ice-box while you beat the other egg and prepare the 
bread- or cracker-crumbs, sifting the latter. Roll the cro- 
quettes first in the egg, then in bread-crumbs, and let them 
stand 1 or 2 hours, if you have time. Bring the lard to 
a boil. It should be 2 inches deep in the pan. Lay the 
croquettes in the frying-basket, and when you are sure the 
lard is boiling, plunge them in. (See General Directions for 
Frying.) Fry golden brown. Drain dry. Serve with 
parsley and lemon, on a folded napkin. Excellent. 




MUTTON AND LAMB. 

GENERAL REMARKS ON MUTTON. 

The great point of having mutton sufficiently mature 
before cooking becomes quite a perplexing question in 
summer, when the meat is liable to spoil before it has been 
hung long enough to become tender. If you are in the 
country, the following simple and most effective mode of 
treatment may be possible for you to practise. It has been 
followed, within my own experience, very frequently, and 
with perfectly satisfactory results. 

The day before you wish to use the piece of mutton, be it 
leg or saddle, have a hole dug in the garden, wrap your 
mutton in a clean, white cloth, lay it deep down in the hole, 
cover the earth tightly over it and leave it until next morn- 
ing. Then dig it out, set it in a cool place where it can not 
spoil, and cook it for dinner. If a leg, it will be further 
improved by being very thoroughly beaten with the rolling- 
pin on all sides. It is quite remarkable how the burying 
process will shorten the fibre of the meat and produce the 
same results as are obtained by hanging for days at a cooler 
season of the year. 

Note. — Never attempt to keep mutton without cooking 
after it has been beaten. 

The directions given for the time in cooking mutton (see 

Time-Table) are based upon the consideration that, being a 

dark meat, it should always be served underdone. Those 

who prefer it cooked brown all through should allow 12 or 

116 



BOAST LEG OF MUTTON. WJ 

15 minutes to the pound instead of 10 in roasting, also in 
boiling and broiling. 

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. 

GIGOT DE MOUTON ROTI. 

Select a large leg of Canada mutton. Let it hang, accord- 
ing to the weather, as long as it will keep sweet. In winter, 
with care and favorable weather, it can sometimes hang 6 
weeks and be all the better for it ; of course the same is not 
the case in summer (see General Remarks on Mutton ). A 
good leg should weigh at least 10 pounds cut close — that is, 
without any of the loin attached. Having hung it as long as 
possible, lay it on a board, and with the rolling-pin, beat the 
entire leg all over until it feels very tender under pressure. 
Let the blows be very heavy and do not spare them. This 
is the French method, and when you have once tried it, 
(especially upon a leg of whose tenderness you have enter- 
tained doubts), you will be amazed that it is not made a 
general practice. Have your oven very hot. Put the leg 
into a baking-pan with the knuckle turned up a little ; 
skewer it in place if necessary. Rub it all over with flour ; 
introduce a clove of garlic into the hock-end near the bone, 
if liked ; put dots of drippings or butter on the top, and 
a large lump in the pan. Put it into the oven for about 20 
minutes, or until it begins to brown nicely ; at the end 
of this time, if the meat is sufficiently brown, turn off the 
excessive heat, but do not cool the oven too much. If 
in danger of browning too much, cover it with an inverted 
pan. Baste very frequently. After the first half hour, you 
may add a very little boiling water, not more than I gill, to 
the pan. If it steams away, add again more, but very little 
at a time. Allow 10 minutes per lb., which would make the 
leg of 10 lbs. sufficiently cooked in 1 hour and 40 minutes. 
It should be underdone when served. Remove the meat 
from the pan to a hot dish ; place the pan on the top of the 
range ; add a very little boiling water ; stir it around to detach 



Il8 GOOD-LIVING. 

the particles and juices ; skim and strain into a boat. Garnish 
the dish with parsley, and put a frill of cut paper on the bone. 

As an excellent addition to the above, peel and boil I 
dozen small turnips until almost tender ; cut them in halves 
and lay them in the pan with the roasting mutton 30 or 40 
minutes before this latter should be served. When you dish 
the mutton, put a circle of these browned turnips around it, 
and serve with the gravy as above. Avoid thickening the 
gravies of roasted meats ; this is a common and shocking 
practice in our country. The ordinary cook thickens them 
with a bitter preparation of burnt flour, which utterly de- 
stroys the true flavor of the meat. There can be nothing 
more wholesome or better, surely, than the juice of the meat 
itself, especially that which runs from it in carving. 

N. B. — Never pierce your roasted meat with a fork before 
it is cut at the table. You can ascertain quite sufficiently by 
pressure if the meat is cooked, without piercing it and th*us 
allowing it to bleed. If well cooked and handled, the juice 
should almost spout from a leg of mutton, when carved, be 
it roasted or boiled. 

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. 

SELLE DE MOUTON ROTIE. 

Having selected the saddle very carefully and hung or 
buried it (see General Remarks on Mutton) until perfect, 
wipe it clean ; put it in a roasting-pan with 4 tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water. Dredge the top with flour, dot with sweet 
drippings, and bake in a very quick oven, allowing about 9 
minutes to the pound, as the saddle is considered properly 
cooked only when very underdone. Baste frequently. Gar- 
nish the tail with a frill of cut paper; put slices of lemon 
and parsley around and serve very hot, with the pan-gravy 
skimmed in the sauce-boat. Serve currant jelly at the same 
time. 

Note. — The plates on which the mutton is served should 
be very hot. 



BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. II9 

ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON. 

FILET DE MOUTON ROTI. 

Follow exactly the directions for Roast Saddle of Mut- 
ton, allowing 8 minutes to the pound for a small loin. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 

GIGOT DE MOUTON BOUILLI, SAUCE AUX CAPRES. 

Leg of mutton, 1 bay-leaf, 

Sprig of thyme, Salt and pepper. 

Have ready a clean cloth in which roll the leg of mutton 
with the seasonings. Have a pot on the fire with boiling 
water sufficient to cover the meat. Be sure the water is 
boiling. Put in the leg, and keep on a steady but gentle 
boil until done, allowing 1 5 minutes to every pound of meat, 
calculating from the time the water comes again to a boil. 
Do not let it "rack" at any time. When done, remove the 
cloth and serve with Caper Sauce (see receipt), or with a 
Pur6e of Turnips (see receipt). 

N. B. — If the meat appears tough before cooking, beat it 
smartly for a few minutes with a rolling-pin. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. 

GIGOT BRAISE AUX NAVETS. 

Having beaten it well, proceed as directed in receipt for 
Plain Braise, if you wish to insure making a tough leg 
good eating, and have it appear as though it had been 
roasted ; or, proceed as directed in receipt for Beef a la 
Mode, omitting the larding ; in this case the bone should 
be removed and the space thus left filled with force-meat or 
dressing. If the latter, serve with turnips peeled, parboiled, 
and finished for at least 1 hour with the mutton ; this is 
highly recommended. 



120 GOOD-LIVING. 

BREAST OF MUTTON A U GRA TIN. 

POITRINE DE MOUTON AU GRATIN. 

Breast of mutton, Parsley and sweet herbs, 

I onion, Bread-crumbs, 

I egg, Butter, 

Pepper, salt, Cayenne. 

Boil the breast of mutton slowly until you can draw out 
the bones easily. This will take i^ to 2 hours, according 
to the age of the mutton. Remove it from the fire ; take 
out all the bones, without breaking the meat in pieces. Lay 
it between 2 dishes under a weight overnight. Next day, 
stand it in the oven until warm ; score the top and rub in a 
mixture made of 1 egg, chopped parsley, grated onion, pow- 
dered herbs, salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Over all, 
sift fine bread-crumbs ; put dots of butter over the crumbs 
and set in the oven until well-browned, or from 20 to 30 
minutes, if the oven is not too hot. Serve with Sauce 
Poivrade (see receipt), or with Mushroom Sauce. 

N. B. — If you will put 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 or 3 onions, all 
cut in pieces, and other seasonings in the pot when you boil 
the mutton first, you will have an excellent soup, if it is 
allowed to boil down sufficiently. Add a little rice or barley 
to the soup when you remove the mutton. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 

COTELETTES DE MOUTON GRILLEES. 

Use the breast chops for daintiness and appearance ; or 
the loin chops for sweetness and solidity ; the former 
"frenched," the latter trimmed neatly and the tails cut off. 
The loin chops should be cut 1 inch thick; the French 
chops rather thinner. Beat them with a few heavy, firm 
strokes of the rolling-pin. Have the gridiron heated very 
hot. Broil under a bright, clear fire. Grease the gridiron. 
Lay the chops upon it, and in a few seconds turn them, that 
they may become instantly seared and preserve their juices. 






BREADED MUTTON CHOPS. 121 

Continue to turn frequently, never allowing one side to re- 
main longer than the other exposed to the fire. This is the 
secret of broiling well : a clear, scorching fire, and constant 
attention, turning very frequently. As soon as the meat 
feels at all firm under the pressure of the fork (do not pierce 
it) the chops are cooked. Butter them thickly and sprinkle 
with pepper and salt. If French chops, put frilled papers 
on the handles and dish in a circle, one overlapping the 
other, with a puree of some kind in the centre. Loin 
chops are preferred for breakfast ; the smaller French chops 
for dinner. 

MUTTON CUTLETS. 

These are slices cut from the thick part of the leg, and 
are most excellent. Beat as described above ; remove the 
outer skin and broil as directed for mutton chops. Serve 
with a puree of spinach as a garnish. Lamb cutlets are also 
excellent with fresh peas. 

BREADED MUTTON CHOPS. 

CUTELETTES DE MOUTON PANEES. 

For this purpose use only the rib-chops. Have them 
"frenched " — that is, the handles cleaned and eyes trimmed. 
Beat with a few vigorous strokes of the rolling-pin. Dip 
them on all sides in melted butter. Sprinkle with pepper 
and salt, and dip in fine bread-crumbs. Let them stand an 
hour, if possible, in the ice-box to dry. Bring some lard to 
a boil. It should be deep enough to cover the chops. Lay 
them in and fry until golden brown and moderately firm 
under pressure, turning once. They should require about 6 
or 8 minutes to cook, being served underdone. 

Or, sear the chops in a hot pan with a little butter — that is, 
lay them first one side then the other for about two minutes 
each ; when cold, dip in egg y then in fine bread-crumbs, and 
after letting them stand about I hour, fry them until golden 
brown in boiling hot lard. Test the lard, arid be certain it is 



122 GOOD-LIVING. 

hot enough, or the chops will be greasy and not a success. 
Have ready frills for the handles ; slip these on ; dish in 
a circle, overlapping each other ; put fresh green peas in the 
centre and parsley around. Serve. 

MUTTON CHOPS EN PAPILLOTE. 

COTELETTES DE MOUTON EN PAPILLOTES. 

y 2 lb. sausage meat, i yolk of egg, 

i onion, chopped, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

6 loin chops, I teaspoon of chopped parsley, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Melt half of the butter in the frying-pan ; when hot, sear 
the chops quickly on both sides. Take them out. Sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Put the remainder of the butter, 
onion, and sausage into the pan. Stir for 15 minutes. 
Remove from the fire, and stir in the yolk of egg and 
parsley. Have ready 6 pieces of white paper, cut into the 
shape of a heart, large enough to hold 1 chop each. Put I 
tablespoonful of the force-meat on one side of the paper ; lay 
the chop on this ; lay another tablespoonful of the mixture 
upon the chop, and fold the other half of the paper over this. 
The edges should then be folded together neatly and tightly, 
one over the other. Place them in a roasting-pan in the oven 
for 15 minutes. Serve in the papers, with a Bechamel 
Sauce (see receipt). 

N. B. — The folding should be done very neatly and evenly ; 
the papillotes must all look exactly alike. Serve the sauce 
in a boat. 

Chops of any kind may be treated in the same way. 

BROWNED MUTTON CURRY. 

1 pint of finely chopped cold mutton, I gill of rice, 

1 tablespoon of butter, 1 egg, 

1 " " flour, 2 quarts of boiling water, 

1 " " curry-powder, Salt to taste. 

Wash the rice-. Put it into the boiling water and boil for 



BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS. 1 23 

25 minutes. Drain in a colander. Put the butter into a 
frying-pan with the flour ; stir smooth, then add by degrees 
2 gills of boiling water ; stir smooth again. When boiling, 
add the meat, curry, and salt. Stir for 10 minutes. Heap 
the mixture in the centre of a fire-proof flat dish ; make a 
border of the rice around the meat, brush all over with 
beaten egg, and place in the oven until browned, from 5 to 
10 minutes. 

BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS. 

COTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA JARDINIERE. 

8 mutton chops, 1 turnip, cut fine, 

Butter, broth, 1 onion or leek, cut fine, 

Pepper, , 1 stick of celery, " " 

Salt, 1 carrot, cut fine. 

If you have chops of whose tenderness you have doubts, 
this receipt is most useful and excellent. Use breast chops. 
They should be " frenched,"as the butchers say — that is, the 
bone stripped clean. Pound the chops with a heavy knife 
on both sides. Have the vegetables ready, fried in butter 
till slightly brown, and then simmered until half done with 
a few tablespoonfuls of boiling water added to the pan, 
about 15 minutes. Take a saucepan (or bake -pan is better) 
which you can cover air-tight. Lay the vegetables in the 
bottom. Sear the chops in the hot frying-pan only just long 
enough to slightly brown one side, then the other. Lay 
them on the bed of vegetables, and add just enough broth 
to cover them. Put the pan in the oven, tightly covered, 
for 30 minutes. Dish them in the centre of the dish in 
a circle with the vegetables around. Put the pan on the 
top of the range ; boil down the gravy rapidly for a few mo- 
ments ; strain it over the chops, and serve. If desired, the 
sauce may be thickened with a pinch of corn-starch, blended 
with a few drops of cold water. Boil 3 minutes, stirring 
constantly, and strain as above. Recommended. 



124 GOOD-LIVING. 

MUTTON CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE MOUTON. 

Proceed exactly as for Corn-beef Croquettes (see receipt). 
Or, as follows : 

2 gills of mutton, chopped fine, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

2 " of macaroni, chopped, i tablespoon of butter, 

2 " of boiling milk, Curry-powder to taste, 

Salt and pepper, i tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Make a sauce of the boiling milk, blended with the flour 
and butter. Stir, and let it boil until very thick. Add the 
curry, rubbed smooth. Have ready the mutton, etc. Do 
not chop the macaroni too fine. Mix all together, seasoning 
to taste. Set away to cool. Then roll as directed for 
Chicken Croquettes (see receipt), and fry in boiling lard 
(see General Directions for Frying). Rice may be substi- 
tuted for macaroni, if preferred. Excellent. 

CURRIED MUTTON. 

MOUTON AU KARL 

Boil a shoulder of mutton whole until tender, adding 
to the water various seasonings, carrot, onion, etc. When 
perfectly tender (the length of cooking being dependent 
upon the age of the mutton), cut it into 2-inch dice. Rub 
together 2 tablespoonfuls each of flour and butter; add to 
these i pint of the boiling broth in which the mutton was 
cooked. Stir. Boil 2 minutes. Add about I teaspoonful 
of curry-powder rubbed smooth with a little of the sauce, 
salt, and pepper. Put the meat into the sauce and simmer 
gently 15 minutes. Make a Rice Border (see receipt) ; dish 
the mutton curry in the centre ; sprinkle chopped parsley 
over the top, and serve. A little lemon-juice may be added 
to the sauce, if liked. (Mashed potato may be substituted 
for the rice.) Excellent. The broth in which the mutton 
has boiled will make good soup, with the addition of a little 
rice or barley. 






TURCSICUS (OLD-FASHIONED RECEIPT). 1 25 

IRISH STEW. 

HARICOT DE MOUTON. 

2 lbs. of shoulder or scrag of mutton, 1% pints of cold water, 

2 "of potatoes, cut in quarters, 2 sliced onions, 

2 sticks of celery or fresh celery leaves, 2 " carrots, 

Bunch of parsley, 2 ' ' turnips, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Choose by preference the shoulder, which you can cut in 
pieces 3 inches square, being careful that the butcher does 
not splinter the bones. The next best is the " rack," with the 
meat cut in pieces at the joints. Put all together into an iron 
pot and stew very gently for about 2 hours. The really well- 
made Irish Stew is excellent, and for this the potatoes must 
be cooked until they begin to dissolve and thicken the gravy. 
When done, dish it very carefully, as otherwise its appear- 
ance is unappetizing. Put the meat in the centre, the thick 
part of the vegetables around, and the sauce over all. If 
desired, Dumplings may be made (see receipts) and added to 
the boiling gravy when the meat has been removed. Cover 
and boil 12 minutes. Be careful that the gravy does not 
scorch, as it does easily under these circumstances. 

TURCSICUS (OID-FASHIONED RECEIPT). 

2 quarts of minced lean mutton, Water in which the mutton was boiled, 

3 " of boiling water, 1 cup of rice, 
White cabbage leaves, ^ lb. of butter, 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Parboil the mutton before mincing it, and save the broth. 
Wash the rice and soak it a few minutes. Put it into a 
saucepan with 3 quarts of boiling water ; boil 15 minutes, 
until the rice is rather tender but not quite cooked ; drain it 
perfectly dry and set it away to cool. When the mutton is 
chopped very fine, mix it with about an equal bulk of the 
rice; season with salt and pepper and add the butter. Mix. 
Separate the leaves of a white cabbage ; put some of the 
minced meat into each leaf ; tie it in shape like an apple- 



126 GOOD-LIVING. 

dumpling, folding the leaf so that the stuffing will not come 
out. Tie it securely. Bring the mutton-broth to a boil. 
Tie the " Turcsicus Dumplings " in a piece of cheese-cloth 
or muslin, and boil gently for 30 minutes. Handle very 
carefully when removing from the fire. Untie the cloth, 
remove the tapes or strings, and serve with melted butter 
in the sauce-boat. The receipt adds " eat and be thankful." 

MUTTON AND MACARONI BROWNED. 

MOUTON AU MACARONI. 

2 oz. of macaroni, i gill of milk, 

% lb. of cold mutton, I teaspoon of curry-powder, 

i}4. oz. of butter, Salt to taste, 

2 eggs. 

Boil the macaroni in salted boiling water until just tender 
(about 20 minutes). Drain and set away to cool. Chop the 
cold meat ; mix with it 1 ounce of butter, the curry, salt, I 
beaten egg, and the milk. Cut the macaroni into |-inch bits 
and mix lightly with the mutton. Butter a pie-plate or sheet 
of tin and form the mixture into a neat, oval mass in the 
centre ; spread \ an ounce of butter over it and put it into 
the oven. When heated, cover it with a beaten egg seasoned 
with a pinch of salt and 2 of curry. Scatter crumbs over the 
top and set it in the oven till brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Re- 
move carefully to a dish ; garnish with parsley. Serve. 
This dish may be more highly seasoned if liked. 

MUTTON ROLL. 

Proceed exactly as for Beef Roll (see receipt). Serve with 
Brown Sauce. Recommended. 

SHEPHERD'S PIE. 

1 lb. of cold mutton, Salt, 

1 large teaspoon of butter, Pepper, 

1 gill of stock or water, I pint of cold boiled potatoes. 

Cut the mutton and potatoes into i-inch dice ; put them 



KIDNEYS BREADED. \2J 

into a deep dish ; add the stock, pepper, salt, and the butter 
cut into bits. 

CRUST. 

4 medium-sized potatoes, }( cup of cream, 

I large teaspoon of butter, Salt, 
Flour. Pepper. 

Pare and boil the potatoes ; mash them and add the cream, 
butter, salt, and pepper, and beat very light. Now add 
enough flour to make a soft dough, about I cupful. Roll it 
into a thick sheet. With this cover the top of the dish of 
meat ; make an x hole in the centre for the steam to escape ; 
bake in a moderate oven for I hour and serve in the dish in 
which it was baked. Boiled rice may be substituted for 
mashed potato, using the same quantity. The addition to 
the pie of ^ an onion grated is a further improvement. 

SHEEP'S KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE. 

ROGNONS EN BROCHETTE. 

6 kidneys, j£ lb. of bacon, sliced thin, 

i tablespoon of butter. 

Cut each kidney through the centre, removing veins and 
muscle ; wash in cold water. Cover with boiling water ; let 
stand 5 minutes ; then wipe dry. Take a plated or silver 
skewer if you have it, otherwise an ordinary one. Run a 
slice of bacon on this, then a kidney, and so on until the 
skewer is filled. Place on a hot broiler for 5 minutes over a 
very hot fire, basting with melted butter. Sprinkle with salt 
and pepper and serve on the skewer for breakfast. Chopped 
parsley and lemon-juice may be added. 

KIDNEYS BREADED. 

ROGNONS DE MOUTON PANES. 
Bread the kidney, and broil as above. 



128 GOOD-LIVING. 

ROAST LAMB AND MINT SAUCE. 

QUARTIER D'AGNEAU ROTI, SAUCE MENTHE. 

Select a fresh and white hindquarter of lamb. Wipe it 
off and roast it exactly as directed for Roast Leg of Mutton, 
allowing about 18 minutes to the pound. Serve with a cold 
Mint Sauce (see receipt). 

BROILED LAMB CHOPS. 

COTELETTES D'AGNEAU GRILLEES. 

See Broiled Mutton Chops, cooking until nearly firm under 
pressure. 

CURRIED LAMB. 
See Curried Mutton. 

BRALSED BREAST OF LAMB. 

POITRINE D'AGNEAU BRAISEE. 

Shoulder and breast of lamb, boned, I carrot, cut fine, 

Parsley, I turnip, " " 

Bread-crumbs, I onion, cut fine, 

Butter, I onion, grated, 

l /z can of tomatoes, I clove of garlic, 

Pepper, salt, Thyme, and spices to taste. 

Have the butcher remove all the bones from the lamb. 
Lay it on a board ; wipe it carefully with a damp cloth. 
Have ready plenty of soft tape or strips of muslin. Prepare 
a dressing of dried bread-crumbs fried in butter, adding 
grated onion, parsley, thyme, and spices to taste. Put the 
dressing into the open side of the breast of lamb ; roll up 
neatly and tie with the tape, securing the ends well, that the 
dressing may not fall out in the cooking. Fry the vegetables 
in butter. Heat an iron pot very hot ; put into it a table- 
spoonful of sweet drippings or butter; when very hot, put 
in the roll and brown it on all sides lightly. Add the fried 
vegetables and only just enough boiling water or broth to 



STEWED LAMBS' TONGUES. 1 29 

half-cover the meat ; add the tomatoes ; stew gently from 2 
to 3 hours or more, according to the size of the roll. Dish 
with the vegetables around. The sauce may be boiled down 
rapidly for a few minutes and thickened with a pinch of corn- 
starch blended with cold water, or with a little Brown Roux 
(see receipt). Stir, boil 3 minutes, strain, and serve in a 
sauce-boat ; or, if preferred, the gravy may be served without 
being strained. 

EPIGRAM OF LAMB, SAUCE TARTARE. 

EPIGRAMME D'AGNEAU, SAUCE TARTARE. 

Prepare the lamb according to receipt for Breast of Mutton 
au Gratin up to the point of putting it away to cool between 
2 dishes. Place a weight upon the top dish. Next day cut 
into strips 1^x3 inches and f of an inch thick. Dip in 
egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in boiling lard (see General 
Directions for Frying). When golden-brown, drain on a 
paper in the mouth of the oven for a few moments, then 
dish in a circle. Garnish tastefully, and serve with Tartare 
Sauce (see receipt) and green peas. The true Epigramme 
d'Agneau is composed of the above alternated with lamb 
chops dipped and fried in the same manner. The above will 
be found excellent, however, without the addition of the 
chops. 

STEWED LAMBS' TONGUES. 

LANGUES D'AGNEAUX. 

• 6 tongues, 3 tablespoons of butter, 

1 large onion, cut fine, 3 " " flour, 

2 slices of carrot, cut fine, 1 bay-leaf, 

3 " " turnip, " " Salt and pepper, 

1 pint of stock or water, Bunch of sweet herbs and celery. 

Boil the tongues in clear water for i| hours. Throw them 

into cold water. Remove the skins. Put the vegetables 

into a saucepan with the butter. Add flour and stir until 

brown, then" add stock or water to cover, and seasonings. 

9 



130 GOOD-LIVING. 

When the tongues are skinned, add them to the rest, and 
simmer very gently for 2 hours. . Have ready carrots and 
turnips cut in neat shapes, and boiled apart. Put the tongues 
on a hot dish : strain the gravy ; boil it down briskly for a 
few minutes and pour over the tongues : garnish with the 
boiled vegetables and serve. 

LAMBS" TONGUES WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

LANGUES D'AGNEAUX, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Cook as above, omitting the boiled vegetables, serving 
instead a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt). 

LAMBS' TONGUES A LA TAR TARE. 

LANGUES D'AGNEAUX A LA TARTARE. 

Stew the tongues as directed, and serve with Tartare 
Sauce (see receipt). 

DEVILLED LAMB EN CAISSES. 

AGNEAU EN CAISSES. 
See receipt for Devilled Chicken en Caisses. 

LAMBS' KIDNEYS FOR BREAKFAST. 

ROGNONS D'AGNEAU. 

Prepare exactly as directed for Fourchette, splitting the 
kidneys in half. 

LAMBS' KIDNEYS BROILED. 

ROGNONS D'AGNEAU GRILLES. 

Split the kidneys ; remove the little white centre. Do not 
cut the two sides apart, but spread them open, running a 
skewer through to hold them in place. Fill the skewers 
with as many kidneys as they will hold. Have the broiler 
or gridiron very hot, and lay the skewered kidneys upon it, 



LAMBS' FRIES. 131 

turning frequently. Dip in melted butter and broil until 
firm under pressure. If you use plated or silver skewers, lay 
the whole on a hot dish ; add lemon-juice, chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt and melted butter, and serve. If common 
skewers are used, the kidneys must be slipped off before 
dressing as directed. N. B. — Serve very hot. 

LAMB CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES d'AGNEAU. 

Proceed exactly as for any of the various receipts for 
Chicken Croquettes. 

LAMBS' FRIES. 

Parboil these as described for Calf's Brains. Then prepare 
according to any of the various receipts for Calf's Brains or 
Sweetbreads : or fry in butter. 




^Bsp^M 









VEAL. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

The best veal is very firm and pinkish white (" ashes of 
roses " describes the color exactly, if not too poetical for 
such a prosaic subject). Never buy that which has a bluish 
tinge. It should not be too young (less than 6 weeks) nor 
too old (over 6 months). The best season is from the 
middle of April until the first of July; but it continues to 
be quite good until the end of October. From that to April 
1st it is not very good, being particularly stringy. Like all 
young meats, it spoils very quickly, and in summer must 
not be kept any longer than necessity demands, and not 
more than 2 or 3 days in cooler weather. In this country 
the utility of veal is not sufficiently recognized ; as a rule it 
is shockingly cooked, therefore indigestible ; hence its bad 
reputation. Whereas in reality it is no more indigestible 
than other young meats and far less so than pork, which, 
though not young meat, is also white. Young meats as a 
rule are not nutritious, but, if properly cooked, need not be 
particularly unwholesome; lamb might be disapproved of on 
the same grounds, and yet it is very popular. If veal is 
sufficiently cooked, and cooked slowly, it will be found to be 
quite as safe for the average person as lamb. A very great 
improvement, and a practice to be strongly recommended, 
is to pound veal, not as you would pound beef, but almost 
to a pulp ; this makes it deliciously tender and quite digest- 
ible. It is indeed a most useful meat, furnishing an endless 
variety of dishes. 

132 



STUFFED FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED. 1 33 

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. 

LONGE DE VEAU ROTIE. 

Trim the loin neatly ; turn the flap under and fasten with 
a skewer. Proceed exactly as directed for Fillet of Veal 
Roasted, omitting the stuffing. Cover with a second pan 
and allow 20 minutes per pound in a slow oven. 

STUFFED FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED. 

ROUELLE DE VEAU FARCIE. 

Remove the bone from the fillet of veal. Fill the space 
with a Force-Meat or Dressing, (see receipts). An excellent 
dressing is made of equal quantities of stale bread-crumbs and 
chopped ham, chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of made 
mustard, and I egg. When the dressing is ready, fill the 
space left by the bone ; then skewer the fillet and tie it with 
tape or strips of muslin into a neat round. Sprinkle with 
pepper and salt. Tie a buttered paper over the top. Put 
it into a baking-pan with a little sweet drippings or butter 
and very little boiling water. Let the fire be intensely hot 
at first ; then after 20 to 30 minutes slack it off to a very 
moderate heat. Baste very often. Just before it is done, 
remove the paper, dredge with flour ; dot with butter, and let 
it brown. Allow about 18 minutes to the pound. If covered 
with thick paper or with another pan, and the fire is kept 
sufficiently moderate, you may allow 20 minutes to the 
pound, as veal must be very thoroughly done through. Add 
a little boiling water from time to time if necessary, but always 
very little at a time. When done, remove from the pan ; 
set the pan on top of the range ; add lemon-juice, pepper, 
salt, and, if necessary, some boiling water. Boil it down 
briskly ; skim ; strain some over the veal, and serve the rest 
in a sauce-boat. 



134 GOOD-LIVING. 

BRAISED FILLET OF VEAL. 

ROUELLE DE VEAU BRAISEE. 

Remove all the fibres and skin from the fillet ; lard the 
upper side with fine strips of salt pork (see Roasted Filet 
of Beef Larded). The space left by removing the bone 
should be filled with force-meat as for Stuffed Fillet of 
Veal Roasted. Skewer it neatly into shape and tie it with 
tape or strips of muslin. Melt a large piece of butter in a 
stew-pan. Lay the veal in, turning it on all sides to brown 
evenly. When this is done, stand the larded side uppermost. 
Add 2\ gills of good stock, 2 gills of tomato-juice or tomato 
sauce, and I gill of sherry, salt and pepper. Cover and 
simmer gently, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound. 
When done, uncover and set the pan in the oven for about 
30 minutes to brown the meat, basting often to give a good 
color. Allow plenty of time ; cook gently, and the veal 
will be tender and perfectly digestible. Rapid and insuffi- 
cient cooking spoil veal and render it unwholesome. When 
cooked, dish. Strain and skim the gravy and serve in a 
boat. 

BRAISED FILLET OF VEAL WITH SOUBISE 
SA UCE. 

ROUELLE DE VEAU BRAISEE, SAUCE SOUBISE. 

Having braised the fillet as directed, serve it with Soubise 
Sauce (see receipt), adding to the sauce the pan gravy. 
Good. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. 

FRICANDEAU DE VEAU. 

The cut for this dish is taken from the thick side of the 
fillet, cut up and down, not across, including the round eye 
which forms the tenderest as well as the thickest part of the 
leg. This is the true fricandeau. Remove all skin and 



FRICANDEAU A LA SOUBISE. 1 35 

fibre, then with the rolling-pin pound the meat until almost 
as tender as pulp. Having done this well, form the meat 
into a neat round, loaf-like shape. Lard the side that is to 
stand uppermost (see Roasted Filet of Beef Larded). It 
will be found to be much more convenient to place the frican- 
deau on a perforated pie-dish which will fit into the braising- 
pot, as handling will deface it after its thorough pounding. 
When larded and ready, place the meat and pie-plate in the 
pot. Fry i onion and I carrot in butter ; add these to the 
pot with i bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, I clove, and a roux made 
of I tablespoonful of flour, stirred over the fire with i table- 
spoonful of butter until of a rich chestnut-brown. Blend 
this with just enough boiling water to make it smooth. Now 
add 3 gills of strong stock and I gill of sherry. Cover very 
closely and set over a sharp fire until it boils ; then draw aside 
where it will simmer gently without intermission. Allow 
about 20 minutes to the pound, if cooked slowly enough. 
The pot must be air-tight. About 30 minutes before it is to 
be served, uncover the pot, set it in the oven, and baste 
frequently until there forms a rich glaze over the top. This 
also improves the appearance of the larding. When ready, 
remove to a hot dish. Add a little broth to the pot ; stir 
and boil down rapidly for a few minutes. Strain and skim 
the gravy and serve it in a sauce-boat. Delicious. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH SORREL. 

FRICANDEAU DE VEAU ,A L'OSEILLE. 

Having prepared the fricandeau, serve it on a Pur£e of 
Sorrel (see receipt). This is the conventional accompani- 
ment. 

FRICANDEAU A LA SOUBISE. 

Having prepared the fricandeau as directed, serve it with 
a rich Soubise Sauce (see receipt), adding to the latter the 
juices of the meat. 



I36 GOOD-LIVING. 

BROWNED KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 

JARRET DE VEAU PANE. 

Remove the lower bone from a boiled knuckle of veal; 
lap the meat over neatly and skewer it. Beat the yolks of 
two raw eggs with half a teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of 
pepper ; cover the meat with this ; sprinkle with bread-crumbs 
and brown it in the oven. 

SAUQE: 

1 oz. of butter, Rind of half a lemon and juice of same, 

I oz. of flour, }£ teaspoon of ground allspice, 

1 pint of broth, Salt and cayenne. 

Brown the butter and flour together to a good color ; do 
not burn. Pour in the boiling broth by degrees, stirring all 
the time. Add seasonings and boil 5 minutes or more, if not 
thick enough. Strain and serve in a sauce-boat with the veal. 
This is an economical dish, and very nice-looking as well as 
palatable. The veal must have boiled very slowly until very 
tender. The broth in which it was boiled will make a good 
soup. See receipts for White Soup, etc., etc. 

VEAL CUTLETS FRLED. 

NOIX DE VEAU PANEES. 

Veal cutlet, Bread-crumbs, 

Salt and pepper, Grated nutmeg, 

Lemon-juice, Egg and lard. 

With a knife remove the outer skin, all the sinews and 
fibres which you can manage to draw out of the cutlet. Cut 
it into pieces 3X3 inches. Beat the pieces to a pulp, lit- 
erally. Squeeze lemon-juice over them. Season the bread- 
crumbs with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Dip the cutlets into 
the egg, then shape them nicely into neat, even pieces, and 
dip them into the bread-crumbs, being careful that every part 
is covered. Set away on a dish for an hour or more if you 
have the time. Have ready boiling lard 2 inches deep. 
When ready, put the cutlets in a frying-basket ; plunge them 
into the lard and fry golden brown. (See General Direc- 



VEAL CUTLETS BRAISED. 1 37 

tions for Frying.) They will require about 12 to 15 minutes, 
and must cook a little more slowly after the first minute or 
two, drawing the frying-pan on one side. When gold color, 
remove them from the lard ; drain them on paper in the 
open mouth of the oven. When free from grease, dish 
neatly on a very hot dish and serve with Tomato Sauce, 
Brown Sauce, or Sauce Piquante, (see receipts). Done in 
this way, veal cutlets are almost as good as croquettes and 
quite as digestible. 

FRIED VEAL A LA MARYLAND. 

NOIX DE VEAU SAUTEES A LA MARYLAND. 

1^ lbs. sliced veal cutlet, pounded, 2 gills of cream, 

1 even tablespoon of flour, Salt, 

3 oz. of salt pork, sliced, Pepper. 

Fry the sliced pork until the fat is melted out sufficiently ; 
sprinkle the veal, cut in pieces 3X3 inches, with salt and 
pepper ; lay it in the hot pan, turn quickly and sear both 
sides ; then draw it to the side of the range and let it cook 
slowly. It is done when it feels firm under the fork. It 
must be turned very often while cooking, that it may not 
harden on any one side. When done, lay the slices of veal 
in a circle on a hot dish alternately with the slices of pork. 
Pour nearly all the fat from the pan ; add to the pan the 
cream, in a little of which the flour has been mixed smooth. 
Simmer 3 minutes after it begins to boil. Pour it over the 
veal and serve. 

VEAL CUTLETS BRAISED. 

NOIX DE VEAU BRAISEES A LA JARDINIERE. 

Veal cutlet, Pork for larding, 

I carrot, cut fine, Stock, 

1 turnip " " 1 teaspoon of butter, 

1 onion " " I'.i <•"<> ' ! •'<■" flour, 

I stick of celery, cut' fine, 1 gill of sherry, 

Butter, Pepper and salt. 

Cut slices of the fillet into pieces about 3 inches square. 
Pound with a rolling-pin almost to a pulp and press back into 



138 GOOD-LIVING. 

shape. Lard the cutlets (this is not obligatory). Having 
cut up the vegetables, fry them in butter until slightly brown. 
Lay them in a saucepan ; on this bed lay the cutlets. Cover 
with good, strong stock. Add pepper and salt. Cover the 
saucepan air-tight and stew very gently for about \\ hours. 
When thoroughly cooked, remove the meat. Thicken the 
gravy with a roux made of flour and butter browned 
together over the fire, blending the boiling sauce into it 
until smooth. Boil this 5 minutes; add wine to taste. 
Strain. Dish the cutlets in a circle with the mixed vegeta- 
bles in the centre ; or substitute a puree of some sort, peas, 
spinach, endives, sorrel, etc., etc. Serve the gravy on the 
dish. 

VEAL CUTLETS SAUTE. 

NOIX DE VEAU SAUTEES. 

Use for this the eyes of the rib-chops cut away from the 
bones, or slices from the fillet, cut in pieces about 3x3 
inches. Pound these with a rolling-pin until almost a pulp. 
Press them back into shape. Have the frying-pan heating 
on the fire. Lay in some slices of ham cut the same size as 
the veal. Let them fry a few minutes. Take them out and 
place on a warm dish. If there is not enough fat in the pan 
from the ham, add a lump of butter, and when bubbling, lay 
in the veal. Turn the pieces constantly and faithfully. 
When firm under the fork, they are done. Dish them in a 
circle alternately with the pieces of ham. Add to the pan a 
little lemon-juice, a pinch of flour, pepper and salt, and a 
little boiling water. Stir and boil. Add chopped parsley, 
pour over the cutlets, and serve. 

The same may be served with Mushroom Sauce, Tomato 
Sauce, Soubise Sauce, Sauce Piquante, or Cream Sauce (see 
receipts) ; or with a puree of peas, spinach, sorrel, etc., etc 

VEAL POT-PL E. 

See receipt for Beefsteak Pudding or Pot-Pie, using 3 
parts veal to 1 part ham. 



VEAL CHOPS A LA MLLANALSE. 1 39 

VEAL CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE VEAU. 

Prepare according to any of the various receipts for 
Chicken Croquettes. 

VEAL AND HAM CROQUETTES. 

Prepare according to any of the various receipts for 
Chicken Croquettes, using 3 parts veal to I part ham. 

VEAL CHOPS SA UTE. 

COTELETTES DE VEAU SAUTEES. 

Chops, Parsley, 

Lemon-juice, Flour, 

Pepper and salt, Butter. 

Pound and trim the chops neatly ; scrape the handles. 
Heat a large lump of butter in the frying-pan. Lay in the 
chops side by side, so that each touches the bottom of the 
pan. As soon as all are in, begin to turn, and keep on turn- 
ing until done, which can be proved by their being firm 
under pressure of a fork. Do not pierce them. Remove 
them to a hot dish ; dredge a little flour into the butter 
which remains in the pan ; stir ; add lemon-juice, chopped 
parsley, pepper and salt, and a little fresh butter. Pour 
over the chops, and serve. The above can be served with 
Tomato Sauce, Soubise Sauce, Mushroom Sauce, etc. (see 
various receipts), or with a pur6e of peas, potatoes, sorrel, 
spinach, endives, etc., etc. 

VEAL CHOPS A LA MILANALSE. 

COTELETTES DE VEAU A LA MILANAISE. 

Having dressed the chops as above, and browned them in 
butter as directed, add a little broth, and stew gently for 15 
minutes. Dish in a circle. Fill the centre space with boiled 
macaroni, and pour the gravy over all. The addition to the 



140 GOOD-LIVING. 

gravy of 2 gills of rich Tomato Sauce and I gill of sherry 
will be found a great improvement ; it may be slightly 
thickened with corn-starch, blended with a little cold water, 
and boiled 3 minutes. 

STUFFED FLANK OF VEAL (COLD). 

GALANTINE DE VEAU. 

Flank of veal, Sausage-meat, 

Bread-crumbs, Egg, 

Dice of tongue, Garlic, 

Bay-leaf, Thyme, pepper, and salt. 

Spread out the flank, which you have had prepared and 
boned by the butcher. To be large enough, part of the 
breast has also to be included in cutting the flank, therefore 
the little flat bones and gristle must all be removed, as also 
all the sinews and fibres of the meat. Trim it evenly. 
Make a thick force-meat of sausage, half the bulk of same in 
bread-crumbs; season to taste with pounded garlic (1 clove 
of garlic or half teaspoonful of grated onion) ; salt and pep- 
per. A gill of wine or brandy will be found a great improve- 
ment. Add 1 or 2 eggs, according to the amount of 
force-meat required ; add dice of boiled tongue. Have 
ready a pot of boiling water, with 1 bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, 
and salt. When you have put the force-meat in the centre 
of the flank, roll it up very carefully, not to let the dressing 
escape at the ends. Tie it securely with strips of muslin or 
tape. Drop into the pot of boiling water, and boil hard for 15 
minutes, covered ; then set to one side, and boil more gently 
for 45 minutes, or longer if the meat is thick. When done, 
set the pot aside until all is cold before removing the roll. 
This is excellent sliced thin for luncheon, and keeps several 
days. 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. 

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU. 

There are two ways of preparing this dish, one simple, the 
other more complex : both are given. It is unnecessary to 






CREAM OF VEAL. I4I 

say that the more elaborate is the better of the two ; but the 
simple one is excellent. 

Cut a breast of veal (the thin, gristly part also) into pieces 
2x3 inches. Lay them in a bowl of vinegar and water for 
about 1 hour. This will draw out the blood. Then proceed 
exactly as for Fricasseed Chicken (see receipt). When 
cooked very tender (it must only simmer), about 1 hour and 
30 minutes, more or less, remove the veal. Strain the gravy ; 
make a White Roux as directed (see receipt) ; stir in the boil- 
ing broth ; when thickened to the proper consistency, add 
lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt, and a dash of cayenne. Put the 
veal into the sauce ; set it over boiling water, and let it stew 
very gently for about 30 minutes at the back of the range. 
Dish the meat neatly. Bring the sauce to a boil. Have 
ready in a bowl 2 yolks of eggs (to a pint of sauce), beaten 
with a gill of cream. Pour some of the sauce very gently 
upon them. Remove the sauce from the fire ; stir the eggs 
thus prepared into the boiling sauce ; pour the whole over 
the blanquette ; garnish with large croutons, sliced lemon, 
and parsley. Serve. Excellent. 

Or, slice some cold roast fillet of veal, about a third of an 
inch thick, in even neat pieces, cutting off all the outer 
brown skin. Prepare a Sauce Blonde or Veloute. When it 
is hot, lay in the veal ; set over boiling water for 30 minutes, 
where it will barely simmer. Season with lemon-juice, nut- 
meg, and a dash of cayenne. Garnish as above, and serve. 
Very good, and much less trouble than the first receipt. 



CREAM OF VEAL. 

CREME DE VEAU. 

Make 2 gills of Cream Sauce (see receipt). Chop 3 parts 
veal and 1 part ham, very fine ; stir in enough to thicken the 
sauce, so that it will no longer pour. Season the veal with 
a dash of nutmeg and cayenne. Serve on toast. Chicken 
may be prepared in the same way ; also mutton, to which 
should be added a pinch of curry-powder. 



142 GOOD-LIVING. 

CREOLE RA TA TOUILLE. 

RATATOUILLE A LA CREOLE. 

3 pounds of lean veal, 2 cloves of garlic, 

\ pound ham, cut in i-in. dice, 2 onions, sliced, 

Sprig of thyme, Veal bones for gravy, 

i can of tomatoes, or 6 or 8 fresh, 4 or 6 sweet potatoes, 

1 can of okra, or 50 fresh, Salt, pepper, and cayenne. 

First of all make your gravy as follows : Brown the bones 
and trimmings of the veal, and any chicken bones which you 
may have, in butter in a frying-pan ; or you may roast them 
till brown in the oven. When well browned, put them in a 
saucepan on the fire with the garlic, thyme, tomatoes, and a 
little dash of boiling water (according to the amount of 
liquor there is on the tomatoes). As you will require about 
1 quart of gravy, it is best to begin with 3 pints of liquid. 
Fry the onions brown in butter, and add them to the sauce- 
pan. Cover. Let the whole stew very gently on the side 
of the range for 2 hours, or longer, until the gravy is tasty 
and strong. Then strain it and return it to the saucepan. 
Have your veal cut in pieces about the length of I finger and 
breadth of 2. Fry the pieces in butter until nicely browned, 
turning often to avoid toughening ; put these in the sauce- 
pan ; add the dice of ham, the sweet potatoes cut in cubes 
of about i£ inches, salt, and pepper. Add also, if avail- 
able, half a sweet-pepper without seeds. Stew all together 
gently until the veal is thoroughly tender and the sweet 
potatoes are on the point of melting away, which will be 
from \\ to 2 hours. Ten minutes before this point is reached, 
add the can of okra. If you use fresh okras, select small 
ones, tip and tail them, and add to the stew 30 minutes be- 
fore removing from the fire. When it is all done, dish the 
meat in the centre of a platter, the sweet potatoes around 
the edge, the okra over the meat. Let the gravy boil down 
rapidly for a few minutes ; add salt and cayenne to taste ; if 
not thick enough, stir in 1 teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved 
in a little cold water. Boil 3 minutes and pour over the 
stew. This is a delicious dish, and perfectly easy to make, 
although it may appear complicated. 



VEAL LOAF. 143 

VEAL OLIVES. 

VEAU AUX OLIVES. 

Strips of veal from the flank, Small piece of cold veal, chopped, 

Cold ham, chopped, Bread-crumbs, 

Parsley, chopped, Grated onion, 

1 egg, Pepper and salt, 

Lemon-juice, Nutmeg, 

Butter, Spanish olives, stoned. 

Having removed the skin and fibres from the flank of veal 
and wiped it clean, cut it in neat strips about 2 inches wide 
by 4 inches long. Pound carefully with a few strokes. Mix 
together all the other ingredients, except the olives and 
butter, using cold ham and cold veal in equal proportions 
and bread-crumbs equal to the bulk of these two. Put a 
layer of dressing in the centre of each strip of veal r roll 
neatly, and tie so that the mince will not run out. The ends 
can be pinned over with small wooden skewers, in which 
case be very careful to remove them before serving. Melt a 
tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan. When it bubbles, 
lay in the rolls and turn them until evenly browned all over. 
Add enough stock to half-cover them ; close tightly, and set 
tm a corner of the range to simmer gently for 30 to 40 
minutes. Then remove them to a hot dish ; bring the gravy, 
strained, to a boil ; thicken it with corn-starch blended with 
cold water. Stir and boil 3 minutes. Add a few stoned 
olives, pepper, and salt. Pour over the rolls and serve. 
This is a very old-fashioned dish. 

VEAL LOAF. 

PAIN DE VEAU. 

2 pounds of cold veal, chopped fine, I cup of brown gravy, 

1 pound of cold ham, " " Cayenne, 

1 small teaspoon of grated lemon-peel, Lemon-juice, 

1 teaspoon of powdered mace, Salt and pepper, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 yolks of eggs, beaten light, 

1 cup grated bread-crumbs, dry and fine, 1 egg for glazing. 

Mix half of the gravy and all the other ingredients, except 
the egg for glazing. Add the yolks of the eggs last. The 



144 GOOD-LIVING. 

mixture should be just firm enough to hold in shape when 
moulded into a loaf. If it is too soft, add bread-crumbs. 
Flour your hands and mould it into a loaf rather more than 
twice its breadth in length. If longer, it will crack in dishing. 
Flour the outside well, and place it in a greased pan large 
enough to permit of your handling the loaf without danger 
of disfiguring it. Cover over and set in the oven until 
smoking hot. Remove the cover and allow it to brown 
quickly. Draw it to the oven-door and brush over with 
beaten egg. Shut the door and leave for 3 minutes, or until 
nicely brown. It will require in all about 1 hour in a mod- 
erate oven. If cooked in too hot an oven, the loaf will 
crack. When done, transfer it by means of a cake-turner to 
a hot dish. Handle it very carefully. Serve it with the 
remaining half-cup of brown gravy, or with Tomato Sauce, 
or Mushroom Sauce (see receipts). It is delicious served 
cold with salad.' 



DEVILLED VEAL EN CAISSES. 

VEAU EN CAISSES. 
See receipt for Devilled Chicken en Caisses. 

ME A T LOAF. 

PAIN DE VIANDE. 

3 pounds of minced veal, 8 eggs, 

3 " " beef, Pepper and salt, 

3 stale rolls, grated, 2 grated nutmegs, 

I teaspoon of ground cinnamon. 

Mix all together with the raw meat minced. If you have 
no rolls, use the same bulk of stale bread. When well 
mixed, form into a loaf, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put in a 
roasting-pan or on a sheet of tin. Cover and bake in a very 
moderate oven for about 2 hours, or a little longer. Serve 
cold. (Or, bake the same in a well-greased bread-pan.) 






JELLIED VEAL. 145 

BEWITCHED VEAL. 

3 lbs. of lean veal, % pound fat salt pork, 

1 grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

I small onion, grated, Salt and cayenne, 

3 e gg s > x CU P °f m ilk. 

Chop all very fine ; mix the raw meat with the eggs and 
milk ; add the other ingredients ; form into a compact loaf. 
Sprinkle with bread-crumbs. Bake from \\ to 2 hours in a 
moderate oven ; if too quick, the loaf will crack. Cover 
while baking. This is best served cold with salad. (Or, 
bake the same in a well-greased bread-pan.) 

JELLIED VEAL. 

VEAU EN GELEE. 

1 knuckle of veal, 2 onions, 

I blade of mace, 1 bay-leaf, 

1 gill of good vinegar, 6 peppercorns, 

2 qJ^irts of cold water, 12 whole cloves, 

Salt and pepper, ^ teaspoon of ground allspice. 

Wipe the veal ; cut it into pieces ; put it into a kettle with 
the cold water ; bring it slowly to a boil ; skim and simmer 
gently for 2 hours. Add onions, bay-leaf, cloves, pepper- 
corns, and allspice. Simmer 1 hour longer. Remove tfhe 
meat from the bones and put the former into a plain mould. 
Boil the liquor down to 1 quart ; strain ; add vinegar, pepper 
and salt. Pour it over the meat, and set away overnight. 
When firm, turn it out and garnish with parsley and lemon. 



I46 GOOD-LIVING. 

SWEETBREADS. 

TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS. 

First soak in clear, cold water and vinegar for an hour to 
draw out the blood. Then put into fresh cold water ; add 
salt ; heat very gradually and boil for 20 minutes. Drain 
and throw again into cold water. When thoroughly cold, 
remove all the veins, strings, and fibres that you can de- 
tach without breaking the sweetbreads into pieces. They 
are now ready to be dressed according to any of the follow- 
ing receipts. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS. 

RIS DE VEAU PANES. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed, cu^them in 
even-sized cubes or slices no less than 1 inch thick; or they 
may be left whole ; dip first in fine sifted bread- or cracker- 
crumbs, then in white of egg, then again in the crumbs. Do 
this at least an hour before dinner, and set in the ice-box. 
When required, have lard at least i£ inches deep boiling on 
the fire. Use a frying-basket if possible. Lay in the pieces 
of sweetbread. The lard should cover them. In about 4 
minutes, if golden brown, drain them out and lay on brown 
paper in the open oven door until dry (see General Di- 
rections for Frying). Dish in a circle on cut paper or a 
folded napkin, garnished around with cut lemon ; put in the 
centre a large bunch of Fried Parsley (see receipt). Serve in 
a sauce-boat at the same time, Tomato Sauce, Tartare, 
Poivrade, etc. (see receipts). 

N. B. — Never serve the sauce on the same dish with fried 
sweetbreads, or indeed with any thing fried, as the moisture 
of the sauce will mar the perfection of the frying by making 
the article so cooked soggy, limp, and tough. Sauted sweet- 
breads, etc., should, on the contrary, be invariably served with 
a sauce or puree of some sort on the dish. 



SWEETBREADS BRAISED AND LARDED. 1 47 

SWEETBREAD FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE RIS DE VEAU. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as first directed, cut them 
in slices |- an inch thick ; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and a 
little grated nutmeg, some finely-chopped parsley, and lemon- 
juice ; dip into Fritter Batter (see receipt). Have the lard 
at least i£ inches deep, boiling in a kettle on the fire. Drop 
in the slices of sweetbread and fry 2 or 3 minutes, until light 
golden brown (see General Directions for Frying). When 
the fritters are sufficiently cooked, skim them out, and 
drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Place upon 
the dish in a circle on cut paper or a folded napkin, and serve 
with Tartare or Tomato Sauce (see receipts) in a boat. 

SWEETBREADS BRAISED AND LARDED. 

RIS DE VEAU PIQUES ET BRAISES. 

6 sweetbreads, Salt pork for larding, 

6 slices of bacon, 1 -chopped onion, 

1 bay-leaf, 3 cloves, 

6 allspice, 1 clove of garlic, 

Pepper and salt, Strips of ham, 

I gill of sherry, I teaspoon of butter, 

Consomme', 1 teaspoon of flour. 

Do not parboil the sweetbreads for this mode of cooking. 
Soak them for 1 hour in cold water and vinegar. Remove 
the veins and cords, but keep the sweetbreads whole. Lard 
the side which is to stand uppermost. Lay the thin slices of 
bacon in the bottom of a hot stewpan which will fit in the 
oven. On these lay the sweetbreads, larding uppermost; 
add onion, bay-leaf, spices, garlic, pepper, salt, and a few 
strips of ham ; add I gill of sherry or madeira, and only just 
enough strong consomme to cover the sweetbreads f or even 
less. Cover air-tight to keep in all the steam, and stew very 
gently from 30 to 45 minutes, according to the size of the 
sweetbreads. Melt the butter in a frying-pan and stir the 



I48 GOOD-LIVING. 

flour with it until well browned but not burnt. Stir into it a 
little of the sauce. Add it to the saucepan and boil for a 
few minutes to thicken. Fifteen minutes before serving, un- 
cover; set the pan in the oven and baste frequently. This 
will glaze the surface and improve the appearance of the 
larding. Now take out the sweetbreads and pieces of ham 
and place them neatly on a hot dish. If the gravy is not 
rich enough, boil it rapidly for a few minutes. Add season- 
ing if required, and a little more wine. If not thick enough, 
a little corn-starch blended with a few drops of cold water, 
may be added and boiled 3 minutes. Mushrooms should be 
added to the sauce after straining it (although not obliga- 
tory). Pour some over the sweetbreads and serve the rest 
in a boat. This is beyond question the best of the many 
ways of cooking sweetbreads. Green peas should be served 
at the same time. 

5 WEE TBREA DS SA UTE. 

RIS DE VEAU SAUTES. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as first directed, cut 
them in even slices about 1 inch thick ; have some butter 
melted in a frying-pan and lay in the slices of sweetbread, 
turning until browned very slightly on both sides. Do not 
let the butter burn. Leave them in the pan only just long 
enough to heat through thoroughly and brown slightly ; then 
dish in a circle on a bed of vegetable puree of some sort, 
and always with a sauce. Sweetbreads saut£ may be served 
with : 

Puree of Jerusalem artichokes, Puree of peas, 

Puree of spinach, Puree of sorrel, 

Puree of endives, Puree of sweet potatoes, 

or with small green peas, asparagus tips, mushrooms, 
cauliflower cut in pieces, etc., etc. In all the above cases a 
sauce should be served on the dish. See receipts for Brown 
Sauce and Brown Gravy. 



SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS. I49 

SWEETBREADS A LA POULETTE. 

RIS DE VEAU A LA POULETTE. 

6 sweetbreads, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

I gill of cream, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

4 e gg s > yolks only, Salt and pepper, 

Lemon-juice, Parsley. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed in the first 
receipt, cut them in pieces the size of a walnut. To make 
the sauce, stir the flour and butter together over the fire, but 
do not brown ; when blended, pour in by degrees, stirring 
unremittingly, enough boiling water to thin the sauce to the 
consistency of very thick cream, almost as thick as batter; 
add seasonings and lemon-juice. Noav put in the sweet- 
breads, and when heated through (they will not require boil- 
ing) add in the cream which you have brought to boiling 
point in another saucepan. Then remove from the fire ; stir 
in a small lump of fresh butter and the beaten yolks of eggs. 
Stir briskly not to curdle. Sprinkle finely-chopped parsley 
over and serve. 

N. B. — To prevent the yolks from curdling, they should be 
broken into a bowl and beaten until smooth with a table- 
spoonful of the cold cream ; then take a little of the hot 
gravy, a spoonful at a time, and mix it in the bowl with the 
eggs ; when smooth turn the eggs into the hot sauce, and stir 
quickly. Do not boil again after the eggs are in, but set 
over a kettle of boiling water {bain-marie) to keep hot if it has 
to stand at all. A great improvement upon the above con- 
ventional dish is 

SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

RIS DE VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

To the above, add fresh or canned mushrooms and I gill of 
sherry, before the eggs are added. Stew 5 minutes, then finish 
as above. 



150 GOOD-LIVING. 

CURRIED SWEETBREADS. 

RIS DE VEAU AU KARL 

Prepare as directed A la Poulette, adding powdered curry 
to taste, carefully blended and mixed with the sauce before 
the eggs are added ; or the eggs may be omitted entirely. 
Curried sweetbreads should be served with a Rice Border 
(see receipt). 

BROILED SWEETBREADS. 

RIS DE VEAU GRILLES. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as described in first 
receipt, heat the gridiron very hot over or under a clear fire. 
Roll the sweetbreads in melted butter and place on the grid- 
iron. Turn often, taking them off once or twice to dip again 
in melted butter and return to the gridiron. When well col- 
ored, season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lemon- 
juice. They should be eaten very hot. Serve with or with- 
out other sauce than the melted butter. Excellent. 

ROASTED SWEETBREADS. 

RIS DE VEAU ROTIS. 

Having prepared as directed in first receipt, dip whole as 
for frying. When dipped, lay them in a roasting-pan with a 
few spoonfuls of strong consomme. Baste frequently, and 
when nicely browned, serve. They will not require more than 
about 20 minutes. You may lay slices of bacon in the pan 
under each sweetbread. 

Or, prepare as for Braised Sweetbreads, larding or not as 
you prefer. Then put them in the pan with the seasonings. 
Cover the first pan with another. Bake until about half 
cooked (20 to 25 minutes), then remote the top pan, baste 
very frequently with wine and consomme^ using less con- 
somme^ than directed for braising. When brown and firm, 
dish. They will require in all from 45 minutes to I hour, in 
a moderate oven. Boil the gravy rapidly a few minutes, after 



SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 1 5 1 

removing the sweetbreads ; thicken slightly with a little corn- 
starch blended in cold water. Boil 3 minutes. Strain and 
pour over the sweetbreads. Serve. 

SWEETBREADS EN CASSEROLES. 

RIS DE VEAU EN CASSEROLES. 

Prepare as first directed ; then cut in dice and proceed as 
in receipt for Sweetbreads with Mushrooms, adding almost 
an equal quantity of oysters from which the muscles have been 
removed ; use a generous proportion of mushrooms, more 
wine, and a pinch of curry-powder (not enough to be percep- 
tible) in the sauce, also a dash of celery-salt. 

N. B. — The oysters should be scalded until firm in their own 
juice, before adding to the sauce. The eggs may be omitted 
if rich cream is used. The above receipt used as a filling for 
pat6s of fine puff-paste, vol-au-vent, or served in casseroles or 
cases will be found most delicious. 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE RIS DE VEAU. 

1 pair of sweetbreads, parboiled, % teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 

1 gill of cream or rich milk, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

5 drops of onion-juice, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

X teaspoon of white pepper, 2 tablespoons of chopped mushrooms, 

Bread-crumbs, eggs, and lard, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Trim the sweetbreads and chop, not too fine, using a silver 
knife. Bring the cream to a boil. Rub the butter and flour 
together over the fire ; add cream ; stir smooth ; boil until 
very thick, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire ; add 
sweetbreads, seasonings, and mushrooms. Mix. Turn out 
on a dish to cool. When cold and firm, have a plate of flour, 
a plate with a beaten egg (or the whites alone), and a bowl 
of fine sifted bread-crumbs. Flour your hands ; take about 
atablespoonful of the mixture, quickly form it into shape (the 



152 GOOD-LIVING. 

easiest is cylindrical, I x 2\ inches) ; dip this deftly into 
the egg, then drop it into the bowl of crumbs and cover 
it all over. Shape it again carefully and lay on a flat dish. 
The croquettes should not touch, that the air may reach 
all sides. There is a great knack in this part of making cro- 
quettes of any kind. The best teacher of all is experience ; 
after a little while it will seem quite easy to handle them. 
Set away in the ice-box for 2 or 3 hours. Have lard boiling 
in a saucepan deep enough to cover the croquettes com- 
pletely. Put them in a frying-basket and plunge them into 
the boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying). When 
fried golden brown, drain on paper in the mouth of the 
oven ; dish on a cut paper or folded napkin tastefully gar- 
nished, and serve at the same time green peas. 



SWEETBREADS, BALTIMORE STYLE. 

RIS DE VEAU A LA BALTIMORE. 

2 pairs sweetbreads, 2 gills of cream, 

I tablespoon of butter, I teaspoon of butter, 

I " " chopped parsley, I " " grated onion, 

Sifted bread-crumbs, I " " flour, 

Pepper, Salt. 

Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed in first 
receipt, dip them in egg and fine, sifted bread-crumbs. Set 
aside I hour. Heat I tablespoonful of butter in a frying- 
pan ; when bubbling, lay in the sweetbreads. Brown one 
side, then the other. Dish the sweetbreads. Strain the 
butter into a clean pan. Add the onion, cream, pepper, 
salt, and I extra teaspoonful of butter, and boil for 
minutes. Now blend the flour with a little cold water. 
Stir this into the boiling sauce. Boil 3 minutes, or until 
thick enough. Add parsley. Pour the sauce over the 
sweetbreads. Serve immediately. 



CALF'S HEAD AU GRATIN. 1 53 

CALF'S HEAD BOILED. 

TETE DE VEAU AU NATUREL. 

Wash the head (which should already be prepared free 
from hair and bleached). Be very careful to thoroughly 
cleanse the ears inside. Singe off any little downy hairs that 
may remain. Pour boiling water through the throat and 
nose passages. Put the head into a large kettle of cold 
water. Bring it gradually to a boil and skim well. When it 
has boiled 2 hours take it out, remove the eyes, which throw 
away ; remove the tongue and skin it. Return the head to 
the kettle. Add salt, pepper, I gill of vinegar, a large bunch 
of sweet herbs, spices, and I clove of garlic. Simmer 2 hours 
longer, making 4 hours in all. It is now ready to serve Au 
Naturel, or dressed according to any of the following receipts. 
If it is to be served whole, boiled, it is advisable, when you 
take it out after the first 2 hours, to rub it all over with 
lemon-juice and tie it up in a clean, floured cloth. It will 
then be whiter. Serve plain boiled calf's head with Maitre 
d'Hotel or Poivrade Sauce (see receipts). 

CALF'S HEAD AU GRATIN. 

TETE DE VEAU AU GRATIN. 

Having boiled the calf's head as directed (see receipt), cut 
off the meat from each side of the head, keeping it in 2 
large pieces. Lay these neatly in a fire-proof dish. Pour 
over it a mixture of melted butter, much lemon-juice, a 
little French mustard, pepper, and salt. Tuck the ears under 
so as to leave a smooth surface. Cover this with a beaten 
egg, then with bread-crumbs and chopped parsley ; place in 
the oven until nicely browned, about 25 minutes. There 
should be only butter, etc., enough to moisten and flavor the 
meat ; not enough to make a liquid sauce around it. The 
brains, after being prepared as directed (see To Prepare 
Calf's Brains), may be divided into pieces, dipped in batter 
or egg and bread-crumbs, fried in boiling lard, and served at 
the same time as a garnish. 



1 5 4 GOOD-LI VING. 

CALF'S HEAD WITH MUSHROOMS AND 
TOM A TOES. 

TETE DE VEAU AUX TOMATES. 

Having boiled the head as directed (see receipt), cut the 
meat from it carefully ; skin the tongue and slice it. Put 
meat, tongue, and the brains (which have been previously pre- 
pared) upon a hot dish and keep warm while the sauce is 
being made. 

I pt. of liquor in which the head was boiled, i tablespoon of sherry, 

i tablespoon of butter and 2 of flour, browned, I ' ' Worcestershire sauce, 

5 mushrooms, cut fine, I " of mushroom catsup, 

Yz teaspoon of salt, Cayenne. 

Blend the flour and butter with the liquor. Boil 5 min- 
utes, stirring constantly. Add all the other ingredients. 
Garnish the dish with 6 Baked Tomatoes (see receipt) ; pour 
the gravy over the meat and serve. 

CALF'S HEAD CHEESE. 

FROMAGE DE TETE DE VEAU. 

I head, Sage, parsley, thyme, sweet 

1 cup of stale bread-crumbs, marjoram, powdered, 

2 large tablespoons of vinegar, 4 cloves of garlic, 
I tablespoon of salt, 2 carrots, 
Cayenne, 2 onions, 

I lb. of sausage meat, 10 whole cloves. 

Mace, cloves, allspice, ground, 20 " allspice, 

I slice of cold ham. 

Wash the head, carefully cleansing the ears, and scalding 
nose and throat passages. Put it into a large soup-kettle with 
sufficient cold water to cover it. Add the salt. Bring it 
slowly to a boil and boil about two hours. Then remove the 
eyes and throw them away. Also remove the tongue, which 
should be tender enough by this time. Put it away until 
required. (Skin it before using.) Return the rest of the head 
to the fire, adding the carrots, onions, and 2 cloves of garlic. 
Let it boil until the bones slip out easily ; about 3^ hours 
in all, after it once breaks into a boil. Take out the 



CALF'S HEAD A LA TERRA PLN. I 55 

head and remove all the bones and any of the cartilage 
that is too hard to put into the cheese. Put the large bones 
back into the soup-kettle and let it all boil down for soup. 
Put the smaller pieces into a saucepan with about I quart of 
the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add 2 cloves of 
garlic, 10 cloves, 20 allspice, and let it boil rapidly with the 
cover off while you prepare the meat. Chop the meat of 
the head into rather large pieces ; mix with it the bread- 
crumbs, sausage-meat, vinegar, salt, cayenne, and black pep- 
per ; then add ground mace, cloves, and allspice to taste, also 
the powdered herbs ; about 1 teaspoonful each of the latter ; 
it must be tasted and seasoned according to requirements. 
Now make the mixture quite soft (as soft as batter) by 
straining into it some of the liquor that has been boiling 
down in the saucepan. When well mixed and soft, put the 
mixture into a saucepan and set it over the fire, stirring con- 
stantly to prevent scorching. Be most careful not to allow 
it to scorch. Stir until it has boiled at least 3 minutes. 
Rinse out with cold water tins the shape of a loaf ; pour the 
mixture into them, putting first a layer of this, then a few 
larger pieces of tongue and some strips of cold boiled ham. 
Fill with the mixture and set away to harden for at least 6 
hours. When cut in slices, the addition of the ham will 
make it prettily marbled. Eat for breakfast or luncheon. 
This is excellent, and less trouble than it seems. 

CALF'S HEAD A LA TERRAPIN. 

TETE DE VEAU A LA TERRAPIN. 
Having boiled a calf's head (see receipt), cut the meat in 
pieces from the cheek about 1 inch square. Make a Terra- 
pin Sauce (see receipt) ; stir the calf's head into this sauce. 
It is best made early and stood away for some hours before 
dinner. The hard-boiled whites of the eggs may be sliced 
and stirred in with the meat. When required, place the 
bowl over a kettle of boiling water {bain-marie) for 30 or 45 
minutes, where it will heat without cooking. Serve it in a 
casserole or deep dish. Delicious. 



156 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO PREPARE CALVES' BRAINS FOR COOKING. 

Wash first in clear, cold water. Throw this off. Cover 
again with cold water, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Let them soak from 20 to 30 minutes. 
Have ready on the fire a saucepan of salted boiling water ; 
lay in the brains; let them remain until firm, about 15 min- 
utes, then drain and plunge again into cold water. This 
process whitens them. When cold, draw off all the fibres 
that you can without breaking them into pieces. After this, 
they are ready to dress according to any of the following re- 
ceipts. 

CALVES' BRAINS FRIED. 

CERVELLES DE VEAU FRITES. 

Prepare as above ; dip first in bread-crumbs, then in egg, 
and again in crumbs. Set in the ice-box for at least I hour. 
Fry in boiling lard until golden brown (see General Di- 
rections for Frying). Drain on brown paper in the mouth 
of the oven ; dish ; garnish with parsley and lemon, and 
serve with Tomato or Tartare Sauce (see receipts). 

CALVES' BRAINS A LA POULETTE. 

CERVELLES DE VEAU A LA POULETTE. 

Having prepared the brains as first directed, cut into 
pieces the size of a walnut, and heat in a Poulette Sauce 
(see receipt), adding mushrooms. 

FRITTERS OF CALVES' BRAINS. 

BEIGNETS DE CERVELLES DE VEAU. 

2 pairs of brains, Fritter batter, 

Lard, Pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. 

Having prepared the brains as first directed, when cold, 
remove the veins as far as possible without breaking them 
too much. Season them with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of 
lemon-juice, or nutmeg if preferred. Divide in small, even 






CALVES' BRAINS WITH MACARONI. 1 57 

pieces not less than I x I inch. Dip in very thick batter (see 
batter for Clam Fritters). Bring the lard to a boil (see General 
Directions for Frying). Too great stress cannot be laid 
upon this essential for successful frying. Let it be deep 
enough to cook the brains without their touching the bot- 
tom of the pan, that they may puff equally on all sides. 
Turn them to brown evenly. When golden brown, skim out 
and lay upon paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry, 
serve on a folded napkin or cut paper ; garnish with a bunch 
of Fried Parsley (see receipt). Serve with Mayonnaise, To- 
mato, or Tartare Sauce (see receipts). 

CALVES' BRAINS AU BEURRE NOIR. 

CERVELLES DE VEAU AU BEURRE NOIR. 

Prepare the brains as first directed. Melt a tablespoonful 
of butter in a frying-pan. When it is bubbling, lay in the 
brains whole or cut in halves. Turn and fry brown on all 
sides. Remove to a hot dish. If the butter has been ab- 
sorbed too much, add another spoonful and let it fry until 
quite dark brown, then add 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
according to the quantity of sauce required. Add pepper 
and salt. Boil up once and pour over the fried brains. The 
sauce should taste very strong of vinegar. This is one of 
the most acceptable ways of cooking calves' brains. 

CALVES' BRAINS WITH MACARONI. 

CERVELLES DE VEAU SAUTEES A LA MILANAISE. 

Serve fried in butter, dressed on a bed of Macaroni a 
la Milanaise (see receipt). 

Note. Nearly all receipts for sweetbreads will serve for 
the preparation of calves' brains. 



158 GOOD-LIVING. 



LIVER AND BACON. 

Liver, Bacon, 

Flour, Pepper and salt. 

Cut calf's liver in slices fully ■§- an inch thick ; throw boiling 
water over and let stand for 5 minutes. Wipe dry. Coat 
thickly with flour. Have ready a frying-pan with the strips 
of bacon cut thin. Fry 3 minutes. If necessary, add a lit- 
tle lard if the bacon does not yield enough fat. When very 
hot, drop in the slices of liver, fry a few minutes one side, 
then turn and fry the other. When well browned, pour in 
boiling water sufficient to half-cover the liver. Season. 
Cover tightly and set back where it will simmer gently for 
20 to 30 minutes. Then remove the liver to a hot dish with 
the bacon ; set the frying-pan over the fire, boil briskly and 
stir. If it has steamed off too much, add a few spoon- 
fuls of boiling water, boil, stir, and pour over the liver. This 
is no more difficult than the coarsest and commonest way of 
cooking liver, and makes of that article of food a tasty dish, 
instead of what is generally set before one under the name 
of liver and bacon — " chips and grease " might be a more 
appropriate term. An onion cut fine and fried first with the 
bacon, is a great addition, according to taste. 

CALF'S LIVER BRAISED. 

FOIE DE VEAU BRAISE. 

I large liver, 2 carrots, sliced, 

Parsley, I turnip 

3 cloves, 2 onions " 

6 allspice, Celery ' ' 

I bay-leaf, )(. lb. bacon, 

Butter, Pepper and salt. 

Tie the liver in a neat roll. If you cannot procure 1 large 
one, take 2 smaller. If nicely tied up they look like a pair 
of ducks when served. Fry the onions and carrots in but- 
ter. Have an iron pot well heated. Lay in the slices of 
bacon and fry for a few minutes ; when the fat is melted out, 



MOCK TERRAPIN. 1 59 

lay in the liver, turning it to sear on all sides. Do not sear 
it too long or it will harden the skin. When ready, turn in 
the fried vegetables ; add all other vegetables and seasonings 
and enough boiling water or stock to half-cover the liver. 
Lay a little more bacon over the liver. Close the pot 
air-tight. Bring to a rapid boil, then set away where it 
will only simmer for about 2 hours. When the liver is per- 
fectly cooked and firm to the touch, remove it to a hot dish. 
Bring the gravy to a rapid boil ; add to it a roux made of 
1 teaspoonful of butter and a heaping teaspoonful of flour 
stirred together over the fire until brown, then blended with 
a little of the boiling sauce. After adding this to the pot, 
stir and let the gravy boil briskly for 5 minutes. Strain it. 
Put the vegetables around the liver ; pour some of the 
sauce over the liver and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. A 
little wine may be added to the sauce, but is not indispensa- 
ble. Recommended. 

ROASTED LIVER. 

FOIE DE VEAU ROTI. 

Prepare as above. Cut the vegetables fine and put a layer 
of them in the bottom of the pan. Cover the liver with 
bread-crumbs ; over this lay thin strips of bacon. Lay the 
liver on the vegetables. Roast slowly for about 2 hours, 
basting frequently with good stock or boiling water. Thicken 
the sauce as above directed. Liver may also be roasted 
without the bed of vegetables, but is not as tasty. 

N. B. — The liver should be covered with a second pan to 
prevent the surface from hardening. 

MOCK TERRAPIN. 

% calf's liver, 2 ounces of butter, 

2 gills of boiling water, I teaspoon of mixed mustard, 

y z gill of wine, Cayenne to taste, 

2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. 

Season the liver with salt and fry slowly till brown ; cut 
it in small dice ; dredge with flour ; add the mustard, eggs, 



l6o GOOD-LIVING. 

water, pepper and butter. Let it boil 2 or 3 minutes ; then 
add the wine, stirring well to mix it all through. Serve. 
Cold veal may be substituted for the liver. 

If beef's liver is used, pour the boiling water over the 
slices and let stand 5 minutes before draining it off, cooking 
as above. 

CALF' SLIVER SAUTE. 

FOIE DE VEAU SAUTE. 
1 liver, Butter, 

Lemon-juice, Parsley, 

Pepper and salt, Wine to taste. 

Slice the liver. Throw boiling water over it for a minute. 
Have the butter very hot in a frypan. Lay the slices in, 
turning first one side, then the other until cooked firm. 
Place neatly on a hot dish. Squeeze lemon-juice and sprinkle 
parsley over the top. Add the butter in which the liver was 
cooked, also a little wine, and serve. The gravy can be 
slightly thickened if preferred. 

N.B. — Beef's liver should be cut in slices, and boiling water 
poured over it allowing it to stand 5 minutes before cooking. 
Wipe the slices dry and cook according to any of the above 
receipts. 

LIVER SMOTHERED IN ONIONS. 

Prepare like Beefsteak Smothered in Onions, having first 
sauted or fried the liver. 

LIVER SA UTE WITH PICKLE SA UCE. 

FOIE DE VEAU SAUTE AUX CORNICHONS. 

Sauce : i teaspoon of butter, 
Liver, 2 " " flour, 

Lard, I cup of boiling water, 

Parsley, chopped fine, I tablespoon of vinegar, 

Onion " " Pepper and salt, 

I tablespoon of capers or pickles. 

Cut the liver in small, neat slices. Melt lard £ an inch 
deep in the frying-pan. Heat by degrees until smoking hot. 



i 



FOURCHETTE. l6l 

While the lard is heating, make the sauce as follows : Brown 
the butter and flour together over the fire, and when it is a 
good color, but not burned, stir in slowly the boiling water, 
blending perfectly smooth. Boil 3 minutes. Add salt and 
pepper and a heaping tablespoonful of capers or chopped 
pickles. Set the saucepan on one side of the fire, where it 
will keep hot without cooking. Now put the parsley and 
onion into the lard and let it cook 2 minutes, then lay the 
sliced liver in the lard and turn constantly until slightly 
browned on both sides. It is cooked when it is firm under 
the pressure of the fork. As it finishes, lay each piece in the 
sauce, covering it all over. When all is cooked, dish the 
pieces in a circle and pour the sauce over all. This is much 
better than the ordinary way of frying it. 

BROILED LIVER. 

FOIE DE VEAU GRILLE. 

Cut the liver in thin slices ; lay it in salted cold water for 30 
minutes, then wipe dry ; lay the slices on a hot greased 
broiler, turning often and basting with melted butter. This 
should be done on a gridiron under the fire, and all the gravy 
should be collected in a trough or pan at the bottom ; pour 
this over the liver. Season with pepper and salt and serve. 

FOURCHETTE. 

Take slices of salt pork about \ of an inch thick and 2 or 3 

inches square ; also slices of calf's liver the same size. Put 

these alternatively on a long skewer beginning and ending 

with pork. Lay it in the oven across a dripping-pan and 

roast it as you would a bird, basting occasionally with a little 

boiling water from the roasting-pan. It will take 15 to 20 

minutes. The liver is done when firm to the touch, and the 

pork should be transparent. When cooked, draw out the 

skewer and serve in alternate slices of pork and liver. If you 

use silver or plated skewers, serve without removing. 
11 



1 62 GOOD-LIVING. 



TO PREPARE TRIPE. 

Wash it in 3 or 4 waters until perfectly clean. It is always 
bleached before it comes from market. In former times such 
was not the case, and it was necessary to take much more 
trouble in its preparation. When thoroughly clean, put it 
into a kettle with cold water, salt, and 1 tablespoonful of 
vinegar, and bring it to a boil. Add a couple of onions. 
Stand the kettle where the tripe will simmer gently for fully 
5 hours, until it is so tender that you can easily pierce it 
through. Drain thoroughly, and it is now ready to be 
dressed according to any of the following receipts. 

FRIED TRIPE. 

TRIPE FRITE. 

Having prepared the tripe as above, cut it in strips about 
1 inch wide by 3 long. Coat it first with egg, then with 
bread-crumbs and drop it into boiling lard (see General 
Directions for Frying). When very light golden-brown, drain 
it out, dry on paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve on 
a folded napkin. To be eaten with Soubise, Tomato, 
Poivrade, or Piquante Sauce (see receipts). 

TRIPE SA UTE. 

TRIPE SAUTE. 

Having prepared as above, cut in strips like cigarettes. 
Have some butter heated in a saucepan. Throw in the tripe ; 
toss and turn it until very slightly browned ; sprinkle with 
chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, pepper, and 
salt, and serve. 

TRIPE A LA POULETTE. 

TRIPE A LA POULETTE. 

Having prepared the tripe as first directed, make a rich Pou- 
lette Sauce (see receipt). Have ready 8 to 12 small white 



STUFFED CALF'S HEART. 163 

onions cooked in plain boiling water until perfectly tender. 
Add these to the Poulette Sauce and let them stew while 
you cut the tripe in neat pieces, diamond-shaped, square, or 
long. Add the tripe to the sauce ; stew the whole gently 
over boiling water (bain-marie) for 30 minutes. Note. — Do 
not under any circumstances add the egg-yolks to a Poulette 
Sauce until just ready to serve. If the sauce is boiled after 
they are in, it will curdle. Season with parsley, pepper, salt, 
and lemon-juice, and serve. 

CALVES' KIDNEYS. 

ROGNONS DE VEAU. 

These are very delicate ; far better than either beef or 
lamb kidneys. Prepare according to any of the receipts 
given for these latter. 

STUFFED CALF'S HEART. 

CCEUR DE VEAU FARCI. 

Wash off, but do not soak. Stuff with a Turkey or Veal 
Dressing (see receipts), highly seasoned. Tie a buttered 
paper over the open end and bake in a small pan with pepper, 
salt, and a little boiling water. Bake 2 hours, basting often. 
When nearly done, remove the paper and let the top brown ; 
blend a little corn-starch with cold water, stir it into the boil- 
ing gravy; boil 3 minutes, strain, skim, season, and pour it 
over the heart. Garnish with onions that have been first 
boiled, then sprinkled with salt, pepper, and sugar, and 
browned in the oven. 



PORK. 

ROAST PIG. 

COCHON DE LAIT ROTI. 

i pig 3 weeks old, 2 large onions, minced, 

3 teaspoons of chopped sage, 2 ounces of butter, 
y^ saltspoon of pepper, I saltspoon of salt, 

4 times the bulk of onions in bread-crumbs, i egg. 

The pig should be well cleaned, skinned, and washed. 
Make a dressing of the above ingredients ; fill the pig with 
it, and sew up with strong thread, trussing the front legs 
forward, the hind legs up against the body as if lying down. 
Put a clean bit of wood between the jaws to keep them 
slightly open. Rub the pig all over with butter, pepper, and 
salt, then dredge with flour. Put in a pan in the oven ; in 
the pan put a very little boiling water. The heat should not 
be too intense at first. It must cook slowly. Baste very 
frequently, especially as it comes near being done. When 
cooked (in about 3 hours), remove the bit of wood and re- 
place it by the classic corn cob, or by a small red apple. 
Serve with Apple Sauce (see receipt). Eat, and imagine, if 
you can, that the shade of Charles Lamb is hovering over 
you. The dressing indicated may be replaced by plain 
mashed potatoes, or by a force-meat of veal, etc. (see re- 
ceipts for Force-meats). 

ROAST LOIN OF PORK. 

LONGE DE PORC ROTIE. 

If the loin to be roasted is skinned, cover the top with 

buttered paper ; if the skin is on it, which is preferable, score 

164 



PORK TENDERLOINS. 165 

with a sharp penknife in close lines down and across. This 
latter will make what old-fashioned people call the " Crack- 
lin'," and is very nutty. Rub the loin all over with pow- 
dered sage. Put it into a very moderate oven, with very 
little boiling water in the pan. Pork must always cook 
slowly and long. Allow fully 20 minutes to the pound in a 
moderate oven. Baste frequently, and when done, serve 
with Apple Sauce (see receipt). 

BROILED PORK CHOPS WITH PICKLE SA UCE. 

COTELETTES DE PORC GRILLEES AUX CORNICHONS. 

Use the rib chops. Clean off the handles ; dip first in 
melted butter, then in bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear 
fire. Sauce for the same : 

4 tablespoons of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of chopped pickles or capers, 

8 or 10 tablespoons of stock, Pepper, 

Corn-starch, Salt. 

Boil the vinegar and stock together ; while boiling, stir in 
just enough corn-starch blended with a little cold stock to 
make the sauce as thick as cream. Stir quickly and boil 3 
minutes. Add pepper, salt, and chopped pickles or capers, 
and pour over the chops, which have been dished in a circle, 
with a frill on each chop handle. Serve. 

PORK TENDERLOINS. 

FILETS DE PORC SAUTES. 

Split the tenderloins lengthwise, but do not separate the 
two halves. Spread them open ; rub all over with powdered 
sage ; sprinkle with pepper and salt. Have ready a very hot 
frying-pan with a teaspoonful of butter or sweet drippings 
melted in it. Lay in the tenderloins. In about 1 minute 
turn them. Do not leave them long on any one side. Saut6 
them until slightly browned and quite firm under pressure 
of the fork. They must be thoroughly cooked through, as 
pork should always be eaten well done. Serve with Apple 
Sauce (see receipt) or with grape or currant jelly. 



l66 GOOD-LIVING. 

PORK AND BEANS. 

I quart of white beans, I large onion, cut fine, 

^ pound of salt pork cut in strips, Pepper and salt, 

I tablespoon of molasses, Cold water to cover. 

Put all but the molasses in a pot. Stand for an hour or 
more at the side of the range to heat slowly. If the beans 
can be soaked overnight, then they may be brought to a 
boil more quickly and will take much less time to cook. 
Boil very slowly. It is advisable, when boiling, to throw in 
a gill of cold water from time to time. This makes the 
hearts of the beans cook more evenly with the outsides. 
When boiled perfectly tender, which will be from 3 to 6 
hours, according to whether or not the beans have been pre- 
viously soaked, drain off the liquor into a bowl ; put the 
beans into a bake-dish with the molasses, and fill to their 
level with the liquor of the beans ; bake in a very slow oven 
for about 2 hours. The top should be nicely browned, but 
not too dark, and the beans soft and creamy all through. 
For Boston Baked Beans, see receipt. 

TO BOIL A HAM. 

JAMBON. 

Soak it overnight. If very dry, soak from 24 to 48 hours. 
Scrape well and put in a kettle on the fire, with plenty of cold 
water to cover it. Simmer gently from 5 to 8 hours, allowing 
about 18 or 20 minutes to the pound (see Time-table.) It 
is done when the small bone in the hock can be drawn out 
easily. Then set aside the pot for the ham to get cold in 
the water in which it was boiled. When nearly cold, care- 
fully remove the skin. Do not cut, but draw it off. Dot 
the top all over with black pepper. 

Or, brush the top with egg ; cover with a mixture of 
bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, sugar, and a little made mustard. 
If mustard is used, mix the egg with the bread-crumbs and 
spread all over the ham ; then set it in the oven until brown, 



FRIED HAM. 1 67 

basting frequently with 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a 
little boiling water in the pan. If very fat, the ham may 
remain some time in the oven with advantage, as the fat will 
melt out to a certain extent. Bake from 1 to 2 hours in a 
slow oven. Practical experience of this mode of treating a 
ham has proved entirely satisfactory. 

LUNCH HAM. 

Cut slices of cold, boiled ham ; broil them ; lay on a dish 
with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, pepper, and a little 
chopped parsley. 

HAM TOAST FOR BREAKFAST. 

I pint chopped lean ham, 2 beaten eggs, 

i}i ounces of butter, Toast. Pepper. 

Melt the butter ; lay in the ham. Season. When hot, stir 
in the eggs. Stir until they set slightly ; then spread on 
slices of toast and serve. Be careful not to let the egg 
harden too much. Cold tongue may be used in the same 
way. 

BROILED HAM. 

JAMBON GRILLE. 

Never, if you can avoid it, broil ham which has not been 
previously boiled. It is most unwholesome. Cut the slices 
not as thin as for frying, about \ of an inch thick. Have the 
broiler very hot. Lay on the slices of ham, turning fre- 
quently, until thoroughly hot and slightly browned. Serve. 

FRIED HAM. 

JAMBON FRIT. 

Same rule applies to this as to broiled ham ; never fry ham 
unless previously boiled. It is unwholesome. Cut thin slices 
of ham ; have the frying-pan heated very hot ; lay the ham 
in, turning frequently to prevent hardening. When the fat 
is transparent, serve. 



1 68 GOOD-LIVING. 

WESTPHALIA CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE JAMBON A LA WESTPHALIE. 

^£ lb. of finely-chopped ham, I lb. of mashed potato, 

yi gill of cream, 2 ounces of butter, 

}£ teaspoon of pepper, Egg, lard, bread-crumbs. 

Mix the ham with the hot potatoes ; add the cream, butter, 
and pepper, also salt, but only if necessary. Mould into round 
balls, or long cylinder-shaped croquettes, I x 2\ inches ; dip 
in beaten egg and fine bread-crumbs. Lay in a frying-basket 
and fry in deep boiling lard until golden brown (see Gen- 
eral Directions for Frying). Serve in a pyramid on cut paper, 
garnish with parsley. For detailed directions for dipping, 
see Sweetbread Croquettes. 

HAM SOUFFLE. 

SOUFFLE AU JAMBON. 

2 gills of ham, grated as fine as pow- i teaspoon of parsley, chopped as fine 
der, as powder, 

3 eggs beaten, whites and yolks apart, Pepper and a little salt . 

Heat i dish, or several small souffle cases. Mix together 
ham, parsley, yolks, pepper, and salt. Beat very hard and 
long. At the last moment add the whites beaten to a dry, 
stiff froth ; beat together only just enough to mix. Fill the 
dish f full and bake in a very hot oven from 6 to io minutes. 
2 level tablespoonfuls of very thick Cream Sauce (see re- 
ceipt) may be beaten up with the yolks of eggs, or may be 
omitted. 

HAM PUFFS. 

i pint of water, 4 eggs, 

i pint of flour, 3 ounces of finely-chopped ham, 

Yj, teaspoon of curry-powder, Cayenne. 

While the water is boiling, stir in the flour ; beat well and 
stir until the stiff batter leaves the sides of the saucepan. 
Remove from the fire, and beat in the eggs I at a time ; add 






HEAD CHEESE. 1 69 

the ham, curry, a pinch of cayenne and a little salt, unless 
the ham is already salt enough. Have on the fire a pan of 
deep lard. Bring it slowly to a boil (see General Directions 
for Frying). When the lard is boiling, drop in the batter in 
bits |- as large as a hen's egg. Fry golden brown ; drain on 
soft paper, and serve in a pyramid on cut paper or a folded 
napkin, garnished with parsley ; or use as a garnish for turkey, 
chickens, or veal. Note. — The lard should be deep enough 
to float the fritters, or they will not puff as they should. 

HAM BALLS. 

yi cup of cooked ham or tongue, Cayenne, 

2 tablespoons of dried bread-crumbs, Yolk of 1 egg, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 gill of milk. 

Bring the milk to a boil ; add to it the crumbs ; stir it 
over the fire until it thickens. Add the ham finely chopped, 
parsley, cayenne, and the yolk of egg. Stir and mix well. 
Turn it out on the dish to cool. When cold and firm, form 
into small balls ; roll first in egg, then in bread-crumbs and 
set in the ice-box for at least 1 hour. Heat deep lard to a 
boil. Put the balls in a frying-basket ; plunge into the boil- 
ing lard and fry golden-brown (see General Directions for 
Frying). Then remove to a folded paper in the mouth of the 
oven for I minute to dry. Serve on a folded napkin. This 
is also a good garnish for chicken and a nice relish for break- 
fast. 

HEAD CHEESE. 

FROMAGE DE COCHON. 

Having previously cleaned it thoroughly, put a pig's head 
into a large pot ; cover with cold water. (It is assumed that 
the head has already been cleaned of all hair.) Bring it 
gradually to a boil, adding a large tablespoonful of salt. 
Boil until very tender, about 4 hours. Strip the meat from 
the bones ; throw away the eyes, which are best removed 
after the head has been boiled 2 hours ; chop the meat 
coarsely, reserving some strips of tongue whole. Season 



170 GOOD-LIVING. 

highly with sage, black pepper, powdered cloves, allspice, 
mace, thyme, and sweet marjoram, and 1 gill of good vine- 
gar. Meanwhile let the liquor boil down, and when the 
meat is all chopped, add a little of the liquor to slightly 
soften it. Rinse out bread-tins with cold water ; put in the 
mixture, with the strips of tongue laid lengthwise ; set away 
in a cold place to harden. A few bits of cold boiled smoked 
beef's tongue will also add to the marbled effect when cut in 
slices. The addition of a little of the liquor boiled down 
fills in the crevices with jelly. It will be ready for use as 
soon as it is quite stiff, from 6 to 12 hours. 

SCRAPPLE. 

Boil a pig's head as directed for Head Cheese with 4 
quarts of water, a little sage, salt, and pepper. Cut the 
meat from the bones, rejecting the eyes ; chop the rest quite 
fine and return it to the liquor. Add enough corn-meal to 
slightly thicken. Simmer 2 hours, when it should be of 
the consistency of soft mush, not too thick to pour. Watch 
carefully, and stir often to prevent scorching. Rinse ou 
bread-pans in cold water ; pour the mixture into the pans 
and set away to harden. When cold and stiff it may b 
sliced and fried for breakfast. The slices must be rather 
more than \ an inch thick, and should be carefully turnec 
with the cake-turner, as they break very easily. Serve very 
hot, and eat with a few drops of pepper-vinegar added at 
the table. 

CREOLE SAUSAGES. 

SAUCISSES A LA CREOLE. 

1 pound of sausages (about 6 to a pound), I clove of garlic, pounded, 
i quart of tomatoes, or half a can, I teaspoon of salt, 

% saltspoon of pepper. 

Prick the sausages and lay them in a stew-pan with the 
tomatoes peeled and sliced, the garlic, and seasonings. Cov 
the saucepan closely and simmer gently 30 minutes. (Th 
sauce may be slightly thickened with corn-starch.) Serve 
Very nice for luncheon. 



SAUSAGE ROLL. 171 

FRIED SAUSAGES AND APPLES. 

SAUCISSES FRITES AUX POMMES. 

Prick the sausages and fry, turning frequently to keep 
from hardening any one side. They will require about 20 
minutes, and must not be cooked on too quick a fire. When 
the sausages are cooked, arrange them evenly in the centre 
of a hot dish. Have some sour apples cored and cut across 
in rings half an inch thick ; fry until brown in the pan in 
which the sausages have been cooked, or in another pan with 
butter. When tender and slightly browned, dish around the 
sausages and serve hot. 

SAUSAGES WITH PUREE OF POTATOES. 

SAUCISSES, PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE. 

Prick the sausages and lay them in the bottom of a bake- 
dish. Make a very soft puree of potatoes. Pour this over 
the sausages ; spread a beaten egg evenly over the top, and 
bake about 30 minutes. Serve in the same dish. Recom- 
mended. 

HOME-MADE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE. 

2 pounds of lean pork, I teaspoon of salt, 

1 teaspoon of powdered sage leaves, 1 saltspoon of black pepper. 

Chop the meat very fine, by the Enterprise Chopper if 
you have one. Season. Make into balls or cakes and fry 
brown in butter. 

SAUSAGE ROLL. 

1 pound sausage-meat, Lard, 

Flour, Baking-powder, 

Ice-water. 

Make a rich Biscuit dough (see receipt). Put the sausage- 
meat in the middle of the paste, which you have rolled out 
about f- of an inch thick ; spread out the sausage-meat to 



172 GOOD-LIVING. 

both sides ; roll the paste over this like a scroll ; moisten the 
flap to make it stick. Lay it in a long, narrow bread-pan 
with the flap uppermost, and bake 20 to 25 minutes. Brush 
the top over with egg or milk and set back into the oven to 
brown. This is a very plain and old-fashioned dish, but very 
savory. 

SAUSAGES WITH CABBAGE. 

SAUCISSES AUX CHOUX. 

Scald the cabbage after cutting it a little coarser than 
coldslaw. Throw off the water. Cover again with boiling 
water, and boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Fry the 
sausages, meanwhile, until about half done ; then drain the 
cabbage ; turn into it the sausages and also the fat that has 
melted out of them ; cover and stew gently where it will not 
scorch until the sausages are quite cooked, about 30 minutes. 
Dish the sausages in the centre and make a border of the 
cabbage. Serve. 

SOUSED PIGS FEET, OR PIG'S PETTITOES. 

Take 4 young and tender pigs' feet ; cover with cold 
water. Bring to a boil, and cook gently until so tender that 
the bones may be drawn out easily. Remove the feet 
and sprinkle a little salt over them. When cold, lay them in 
a crock. When the liquor in which the feet have boiled is 
cold, skim it, and to I quart of the liquor add 1 quart of 
vinegar. Put it into a china-lined kettle and boil a few min- 
utes with some whole peppers, cloves, and allspice, and pour 
it boiling over the feet. There should be liquid enough to 
cover the feet. Cover the crock ; set in a cool place and 
they will keep for some time. 

FRIED PIGS FEET FOR BREAKFAST. 

PIEDS DE COCHON FRITS. 

Take out some of the feet prepared as above, removing 
from them all extra jelly ; roll in flour. Have some hot but- 



TOASTED BACON. 1 73 

ter in a very hot frying-pan ; lay in the feet and fry until 
brown on one side ; then turn with a cake-lifter and brown the 
other side. There should be a crisp brown crust formed in 
this way. Remove with the cake-turner to a hot dish, and 
serve. 

BACON IN BATTER FOR BREAKFAST. 

Roll very thin slices of bacon in batter and fry in boiling 
lard. The bacon should be previously boiled and the rind 
removed. Serve alone or with fried chicken. See receipt 
for Fritter Batter. 

FRIED BACON NO. I. 

Having removed the rind, dip thin slices of boiled bacon 
in egg and bread-crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Drain dry 
and serve. 

FRIED BACON NO. II. 

Cut raw bacon in slices \ of an inch thick and 4 inches 
long. Cut off the rind. It should be fried only until trans- 
parent, not crisp. Tilt the pan to allow the fat as it melts 
to run down, so that the bacon shall not lie in it. 

TOASTED BACON. 

Cut the slices as above ; lay them on a tin pie-plate and 
set the plate on the gridiron under the grate. It must tilt 
slightly, so that the bacon will not be greasy. Cook until 
transparent and slightly curled ; or it may be crisped if de- 
sired. 



TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING POULTRY 

AND GAME. 



Hour. Minutes. 



Turkey, oven per lb. 

Chicken, i year old, oven per lb. 

Turkey-chick, smothered in oven whole 

Grouse, oven, under-done whole 

Partridge, oven, well-done whole 

Rabbit or hare, oven whole 

Saddle of venison, oven, very under-done per lb. 

Haunch of venison, oven, moderately under-done, per lb. 

Turkey, boiled very gently per lb. 

Chicken, boiled very gently per lb. 

Fowl (old), simmered very gently per lb. 

Fowl (old), braised very slowly per lb. 

Turkey, braised ... per lb. 



About 



About 15 
About 15 

About 25 
30 to 35 

35 to 45 
9 
10 

15 
15 

20 to 30 
20 to 30 
15 to 30 



POULTRY. 

TO CLEAN POULTRY AND GAME. 

First twist up a piece of newspaper and light it on the 
hearth; while burning, pass the chickens, held by the neck and 
feet, backward and forward over the blaze, turning until all 
the hairs are singed off. Cut off the feet just above the 
claws. Hold the legs in boiling water for I minute or 2, and 
scrape off the scales with a knife. The French people, who 
know better than any other nation what a real roast chicken 
is, always cut the legs as described, not at the first, joint of the 
drumstick as we do. The chickens dressed in this manner 
present a much better appearance. Cut off the head ; slit 
the skin of the neck down the back to near the shoulders ; 
push it off toward the front, and cut the neck off quite close 
to the shoulders. This leaves a good flap of skin to fasten 
down later. Draw down the skin over the breast and take 
out the whole craw without breaking it. Make an incision 
under the rump, just large enough to let in the fingers to 
draw it easily. Take out all the entrails, being most careful 
not to break the gall-bag, or the whole chicken will have a 
bitter, disagreeable taste, rendering it practically unfit for 
eating. Do not wash or soak poultry or game unless you 
have broken the gall-bag, in which case it should be rinsed 
out quickly with water in which there is dissolved some bak- 
ing-soda, allowing I teaspoonful to the quart. Rinse quickly 
and dry out thoroughly and immediately. It is a great mis- 
take to soak poultry or game. It may be well washed be- 
i75 



176 GOOD-LIVING. 

fore, but not after, being drawn, and if carefully cleaned, 
will require only to be wiped out with a wet cloth, then 
dried. It is now ready for use. Cut the liver from the gall- 
bag, being again very careful with this. Cut the heart open ; 
remove any clotted blood. Draw off the outer covering of 
the gizzard, throwing away the inner sand-bag whole. Wash 
thoroughly and set aside for use. The above directions 
apply to all poultry and game, with the exception of cutting 
off the feet. In some of the smaller game the feet are left 
on ; in other cases cut off ; the directions will be given for 
such in its place. 

TO TRUSS A FOWL WHEN DRAWN. 

Cross the last joint of the wings above the first joint, and 
run 1 skewer through them and the body. Near the rump, 
each side of the opening made for drawing the fowl, make 2 
incisions, through which, by pressing back the legs very 
gently and persistently, the ends may be slipped. Then 
sew up the first opening with soft cotton. Stuff the breast 
of the bird through the neck till the craw is filled out ; turn 
under the flap of skin and skewer it to the back. Or, instead 
of treating the legs as above, tie them together at the first 
joint ; press them up against the body and run 1 skewer 
through them and the body. 

TO ROAST CHICKENS. 

POULETS ROTIS. 

Select a pair of nice, young, but full-grown chickens about 
I year old. The skin should be smooth and tender ; the 
breastbone pliable at the point. After being cleaned as 
directed, make a dressing of 1 cup of stale bread-crumbs, 1 
tablespoonful of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, salt and pepper. Fill the craw only ; turn the skin 
of the neck outside-in (like a glove-finger) as far as it will go, 
and fasten it on the under side with a skewer, unless you pre- 



TO ROAST CHICKENS. I? 1 / 

fer sewing it, in which case do not forget to remove the 
thread before serving the chicken. Now truss it. Put a 
large lump of butter into the body ; sew up the incision made 
for drawing. Turn the chicken breast upward with the rump 
toward you. Push the legs up under the skin, cross them a 
little ; run I skewer through legs and body. Turn the wings 
back. Run another skewer through them and the body of 
the chicken. Tie the legs together just below the drumsticks ; 
twist the twine around the skewer, carry it up the back ; 
wrap it round the ends of the wing-skewer and tie firmly. 
Note. — In dressing capons, etc., do not cross the legs. Put 
4 slices of bacon in the roasting-pan ; lay the chickens on 
them ; rub the breasts with butter and put a tablespoonful of 
butter in the pan, adding not more than 3 or 4tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water. They should be basted almost entirely 
with melted butter. Allow 1 5 minutes to the pound ; that 
is, 1 hour for a pair of chickens weighing about 4 pounds 
each. Baste every 10 minutes; 15 minutes before they are 
done, baste with the butter, dredge with flour, and return to 
the oven to brown. If in danger of browning too quickly, 
omit the flour and cover with I sheet or 2 of thick brown 
paper. They should be evenly golden brown, if properly 
roasted. When done, the flesh will feel perfectly firm under 
pressure. Do not, on any account, pierce with a fork to 
ascertain this ; it is perfectly possible without having re- 
course to such means. Never pierce cooked meat of any 
sort ; feel it with the flat side of the fork or knife, and in a 
very short time experience will teach you. White meat, 
poultry, game, veal, pork, or lamb should all feel quite firm ; 
all dark game and meats should feel elastic and springy, 
more or less according to the degree of cooking required. 
The softer they are the less they are cooked. Which means 
that white meats must be well-done all through, red or 
dark meats under-done. 

Chickens may be trussed, if preferred, according to direc- 
tions To Truss a Fowl. When done, remove the strings and 
skewers and place the chickens upon a hot dish. 



178 GOOD-LIVING. 

Sauce : Put the giblets in a saucepan and cover them with 
cold water. Simmer gently as long as the chickens roast ; 
chop the giblets fine ; add I tablespoonful of flour to the pan 
in which the chickens were roasted ; stir over the fire for 
5 minutes ; then add 2 gills of the liquor in which the giblets 
were cooked ; stir until it boils. Add the giblets, pepper, 
and salt, and serve in a boat. Place a thick bed of water- 
cresses around the chickens and serve. Omit the giblet sauce 
and use the plain pan-gravy, if preferred. 

N. B. — It is much better to use a Dutch oven, if possible, 
for the above. The time required is about the same as for 
the oven. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN. 

For this mode of cooking, select a good-sized broiler, some- 
thing between the little broiler and the year-old roasting- 
chicken. Singe, draw (see directions), and split it down the 
back. Wipe off with first a wet, then a dry towel. Spread 
it open, and hold it in shape by passing a skewer across 
through the wings, placing the liver under one wing, the 
gizzard under the other. Now lay it in a roasting-pan ; put 
a quarter of a pound of butter cut in pieces, 2 or 3 table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water over the chicken, and sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Cover with a second pan that will fit 
closely and keep in all the steam. Place in the oven and 
roast for about I hour (more or less according to the size of 
the chicken). When half-done, turn the chicken over and 
finish on the second side. When done, it should be gold- 
color, not brown. If you like, have a gridiron heated 
very hot, and when the chicken is done, lay it breast down- 
ward on the bars before the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, until 
it takes the marks of the hot bars. Then lay it on a hot 
dish ; spread it thickly with butter ; sprinkle with chopped 
parsley ; let it stand about 2 minutes in a warm place to melt 
the butter ; garnish and serve. Chicken treated in this way 
will be found to have all the sweetness of the ordinary 
broiled chicken and, at the same time, be more evenly cooked 
and juicy. 



BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI. 1 79 

BROILED CHICKEN. 

POULET GRILLE AUX CRESSONS. 

For this purpose select the smallest chickens that come to 
market. Singe, draw, wipe clean, split, and spread, keeping 
in place with a skewer run through the wings and under 
side. Have the broiler very hot. Broil if possible under, 
not over, a clear, bright fire. A wood fire is the best by far 
for the purpose. Set the chicken with the under, or bone 
side, toward the hot coals. (If over the fire, turn a plate 
over the chicken.) Put a pan under the gridiron to catch 
the juices. Baste with melted butter. Broil about f- of the 
time with the bone side toward the blaze. When nearly 
done, turn the breast toward the fire and broil until nicely 
browned ; be very careful not to scorch. The time will vary 
according to the size of the chicken, the average being about 
30 minutes. Serve with melted butter, pepper, salt, and 
chopped parsley ; garnish with cresses. 

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI. 

POULET BRAISE AU MACARONI. 

Singe, draw, clean, and truss the chicken as directed for 
roasting. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan ; 
when hot, lay in the chicken and turn until golden brown on 
all sides. Then proceed as for Plain Braise, thickening 
the gravy with a roux as directed. An average-sized fowl 
will require 2 hours ; if old, longer ; if young and tender, 1 
hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes. Mean- 
while, boil half a pound of macaroni in salted boiling water 
for 20 minutes. When tender, drain it dry. While the 
macaroni is draining, remove the chicken from the pot to a 
hot dish ; strain the sauce ; return it to the fire ; put the 
macaroni into it and simmer, not boil, for 15 to 20 minutes, 
until the macaroni has become thoroughly moistened with 
the sauce. Dish the macaroni around the chicken ; pour 



l8o GOOD-LIVING. 

some of the remaining sauce over it, and serve the rest in a 
boat. The addition of i cup of tomatoes to the sauce when 
first put down to cook, will improve both its color and flavor. 

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH CARROTS. 

POULET BRAISE AUX CAROTTES. 

Having dressed and trussed the chicken as directed, melt 
I tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan ; when it is hot, 
lay in the chicken, turning on all sides until evenly browned. 
Then cook it as directed for Plain Braise, adding I cup 
of tomatoes, 4 large carrots cut in strips and fried in butter, 
also a roux as directed. Serve with the carrots around the 
chicken, and the sauce strained and served in a boat. 

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH JERUSALEM ARTI- 
CHOKES. 

POULET BRAISE AUX TOPINAMBOURS. 

Braise the chicken as directed above, thickening the 
gravy with a roux. Make a puree of Jerusalem arti- 
chokes thus : Select about 2 quarts of the largest artichokes ; 
wash them and put them down to boil in a pot of boiling 
water. Boil 15 to 25 minutes, according to size, until tender. 
Drain, peel, mash through a colander ; add salt and pepper, 
butter the size of a walnut, and cream to moisten the puree 
to the consistency of soft mashed potatoes. Failing cream, 
use the sauce of the chicken to moisten it. Return to the 
fire in a china-lined saucepan ; when thoroughly hot, dish it 
around the chicken ; strain some of the chicken-gravy over it, 
and serve the rest in a boat. Or, wash, peel, and boil the 
artichokes as directed ; strain the gravy of the chicken ; put 
chicken, artichokes, and gravy back into the pot and stew 
gently until the artichokes begin to melt away. This, 
system is better with a fowl, as it will bear the prolonged 
cooking and be improved by it. In this case, add the arti- 
chokes at least I hour before the fowl should be finished. 
Delicious. 



SPANISH CHICKEN. l8l 

CHICKEN LIVERS SA UTE. 

FOIES DE VOLAILLES SAUTES. 

Put a lump of butter in a saucepan on the fire ; add 
I onion chopped fine ; fry until gold color ; add the livers 
whole and some chopped parsley. Cook until firm, shaking 
frequently. Remove the livers to a hot dish. Add to the 
saucepan a little stock and a pinch of flour to thicken ; stir 
and boil 3 minutes. Strain. Add salt, pepper, a little wine, 
and some fresh chopped parsley. Pour over the livers and 
serve with diamond-shaped Croutons (see receipt) as 
garnish. 

SPANISH CHICKEN 

POULET A L'ESPAGNOLE. 

2 chickens, 2 gills of sweet oil, 

4 small onions, chopped, I clove of garlic, 

2 cans of tomatoes, 2 bay-leaves, 

Yz lady-finger pepper, without seeds, Parsley, 

Sprig of thyme, Salt and pepper, 

2 slices of bacon or ]/ z lb. of ham, y z sweet Spanish pepper. 

Singe, clean and joint the chickens as for fricassee. Bone 
the drumsticks. If old, remove the skin. Lay the pieces in 
ice-water and I tablespoonful of vinegar for I hour. Put the 
oil (or sweet drippings) into a large frying-pan. Put in first 
the largest pieces of chicken, and then the smaller. Put the 
breasts with the meat downward. Fry until a delicate gold 
color. Remove the pieces as they brown to a large stewpan. 
Add the onions, etc., etc., the bacon or ham to be cut in nar- 
row strips. Stew for I hour, if the chickens are very young ; 
from this to 2 hours and 30 minutes, according to the quality 
of the chickens. They must become perfectly tender. Re- 
move the chickens and pieces of ham. Dish first the inferior 
pieces and finish with the best. Strain the sauce. Return it 
to the fire and boil rapidly for 15 minutes longer. If not 
thick enough, add a very little corn-starch blended with a few 
drops of cold water, and boil 2 minutes. Pour some of the 



1 82 GOOD-LIVING. 

sauce over the chicken, serve the rest in a boat. Decorate 
the dish, if you want to make it as attractive to the eye as it 
is pleasing to the palate, with diamond-shaped Croutons (see 
receipt), mushrooms, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, olives, etc. 
These latter are not essential. The above receipt resembles 
very much the Poulet a la Marengo, but is much easier to 
make. 

CHICKEN SOUFFLE. 

2 gills White Sauce ( see receipt), 3 yolks of eggs. 

Salt, 3 whites beaten to a stiff froth, 

Pepper, ]/ 2 lb. of cold chicken. 

Boil the sauce till it forms a thick paste. Cut the chicken 
very fine and rub it through a sieve ; or pound it in a mortar 
before passing through the sieve. Mix it with the sauce and 
seasoning. Beat in the yolks of eggs. Heat and butter I 
bake-dish or several small souffle-cases. At the last moment 
stir the whites of eggs very lightly into the mixture ; fill 
the dish £ full and bake in a very hot oven 8 to 12 minutes. 
The flavor of the above may be varied by passing mush- 
rooms through the sieve with the chicken, observing the 
same proportions. This dish must be eaten immediately, as 
standing spoils it. 

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. I. 

FRICASSEE DE POULET I. 

2 chickens, Juice of half a lemon, 
I clove of garlic, 1 quart of cold water, 
Pepper and salt, Bunch of parsley, 

1 onion, Small piece of pork, 

1 teaspoon of butter, 1 gill of flour, 

3 tablespoons of cream, 3 yolks of eggs, 

2 carrots, White wine and mushrooms may be added. 

Cut the chickens, when cleaned, in pieces. Use the finer 
parts for the fricassee ; the coarser parts for the sauce. Put 
the coarser pieces into a china-lined saucepan with the water, 
spices, onion, parsley, pork etc. Simmer 30 minutes, then 
add the finer pieces. Let them boil slowly until done, from 
I to 2 hours according to the quality of the chickens. They 



CHICKEN STEW WITH VEGETABLES. 1 83 

must cook very slowly. When very tender, take out the 
finer pieces ; keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. 
Strain the gravy ; skim. Return it to the fire. Blend 
together the butter and flour over the fire in another sauce- 
pan ; do not let them brown. When well blended, add some 
of the boiling gravy and stir until perfectly smooth ; then add 
the rest of the gravy. Stir and boil 4 or 5 minutes. Remove 
from the fire and stir in quickly the yolks of eggs beaten up 
with the cream. Add the lemon-juice. Do not boil again 
after the eggs are added or it will curdle. Add wine to taste 
and mushrooms, if liked. Serve in a border of rice or mashed 
potatoes with sauce poured over the chicken. 

A DAINTY CHICKEN FRICASSEE. II 

FRICASSEE DE POULET II. 

Fricassee your chicken (see receipt). To the rich creamy 
sauce, add just enough curry-powder, rubbed smooth, to 
flavor the sauce slightly and to give it a pretty yellow tint. 
Have some Boiled Rice (see receipt) ; when it is dry, add to it 
just enough stewed, strained tomato-juice to make it a pretty 
light-red. Make a wall of this around the edge of the dish ; 
in the centre place the pieces of chicken, the coarser parts 
below, the best on top ; pour over this the yellow sauce. 
Sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley over ; stick little 
sprigs of fresh green parsley at even distances around be- 
tween the yellow and pink ; garnish the edge of the dish 
with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, and you have, with 
very little trouble, a dish equally pleasing to both palate 
and eye. 

CHICKEN STEW WITH VEGETABLES. 

2 fowl, trussed whole, xyi pints of cold water, 

2 ounces of butter, fy tablespoon of flour, 
I pint of sweet corn, 1 pint of lima beans, 

3 slices of bacon, cut in strips, Salt, pepper, and cayenne. 

Having cleaned and trussed the fowl as directed (see 
receipts), put them in a stewpan with cold water. When it 



184 GOOD-LIVING. 

simmers, add the butter and flour rubbed together until 
smooth ; the corn cut from the cob, the limas, bacon, salt, 
pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Let all stew slowly together 
until done. If the fowl are tough, however, they will need 2 
hours or even 2 hours and 30 minutes, in which case the 
vegetables should not be added until about 1 hour before the 
fowl are to be done. If young chickens, they will not fequire 
more than 1 hour to I hour and 30 minutes, according to 
size. Serve the fowl in the centre of the dish with the 
vegetables around, and the sauce in the boat. 

CHICKEN STEW WITH DUMPLINGS. 

1 chicken, 1 large onion, cut fine, 

3 pints of cold water, 1 carrot, cut fine, 

Butter, salt, and pepper, )£ turnip, " " 

Cut up the chicken as for fricassee. Put it into astewpan 
with cold water, and let it come to a boil. Put the vege- 
tables into a frying-pan, with I tablespoonful of butter, and 
fry until brown, but not burned. Add a few tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water ; cover and stew until tender. Then mash 
them through a strainer into the saucepan containing the 
chicken. Simmer very gently until the chicken is tender. 
An old fowl will require fully 2 hours or more ; a young 
chicken about 1 hour. About 12 minutes before serving, 
bring to a brisk boil, and drop in the Dumplings (see receipt). 
Cover the saucepan ; boil rapidly 10 or 12 minutes. Remove 
the dumplings, and keep them warm while you dish the 
chicken. Pour the gravy over ; place the dumplings around 
the dish, and serve. N. B. — Take care that the sauce does 
not scorch while the dumplings are cooking, as this happens 
very easily. 

CHICKEN CURR Y. 

POULET AU KARL 

I chicken of about 3 pounds, 2 large onions, cut fine, 

3 tomatoes, or 1 cup of canned, $£ cup of butter, 

1 cup of new milk, Pinch of cayenne, 

About 1 teaspoon of curry-powder. 

Fry the onions in butter until brown, but do not burn. 
Add the chicken, cut up as for fricassee, and the other 



FILLETS OF CHICKEN. 1 85 

ingredients, reserving the curry. Cover tightly, and simmer 
gently 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add the milk. Bring 
to a boil. Mix the curry and one teaspoonful of corn-starch 
with a little cold water. Stir it into the boiling sauce. 
When it has boiled two minutes, remove and serve in a Rice 
Border (see receipt). Note. — The time allowed is for a young 
chicken. The quantity of curry-powder used must depend 
upon its strength. 

CHICKEN SA UTE WITH PEAS. 

POULET SAUTE AUX PETITS POIS. 

Pieces of cold chicken, 2 ounces of butter, 

Pepper and salt, Pinch of ground mace, 

I dessertspoon of flour, ■ 2 gills of stock, 

I pint of fresh peas, I teaspoon of powdered sugar. 

Cut the chicken into neat dice, not too small. Melt the 
butter in a saucepan ; lay in the pieces of chicken ; sprinkle 
with pepper, salt, and a pinch of mace ; toss the chicken 
until of a nice light brown. Dredge in the flour ; stir it 
around ; then add the stock and peas, and stew until the 
latter are tender — about 20 minutes, if young. Add the 
sugar and more pepper and salt if necessary. Place the 
chicken in the centre of a hot dish, the peas around, and the 
gravy over all. Garnish with large Croutons (see receipt). 

FIILETS OF CHICKEN. 

FILETS DE POULETS SAUTES. 

I chicken, Flour, 

Salt and pepper, 4 tablespoons of butter, 

3 gills of milk, Pinch of mustard, 

1 tablespoon of flour, Puree of peas or potatoes for garnishing. 

Remove the white meat from the breastbone, 1 solid piece 
from each side. Bone the legs and thighs, making I piece of 
each ; that is, 4 fillets to each chicken. Remove the skin. 
Flatten with the potato-masher. Season with salt and 
pepper. Dredge with flour. Melt in the frying-pan \ a 
tablespoonful of butter for each fillet. When hot, lay in the 



1 86 GOOD-LI VING. 

fillets, and fry until light brown, for about 20 minutes, turning 
often. Remove to a hot dish. Add I to 2 tablespoonfuls 
more of butter to what remains in the pan. When melted, 
stir in 1 tablespoonful of flour, and continue to stir until 
slightly browned. Then add slowly the boiling milk, stirring 
smooth. Season. Boil 1 or 2 minutes, stirring always. 
Have ready in the centre of the dish, a Puree of Peas (see 
receipt). Set the fillets around neatly ; strain the sauce over 
the chicken and serve. 

CHICKEN SA UTE WITH MUSHROOMS. 

POULET SAUTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

Prepare exactly as Chicken Saute with Peas, substitut- 
ing fresh or canned mushrooms for peas. If canned mush- 
rooms are used, they should cook only just long enough to 
heat thoroughly ; therefore do not add them until a very few 
minutes before the chicken is ready to serve. 

CHICKEN SOUFFLE NO. II. 

I pint of cold chicken, chopped very fine, 3 eggs, 

1 tablespoon of butter, 1 pint of new milk, 

1 " of chopped parsley, Pepper and salt, 

I " of flour, 1 gill of stale bread-crumbs. 

Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour. Mix very 
smooth. Stir the boiling milk by degrees into the flour and 
butter ; stir until it boils 2 minutes ; add whit© crumbs ; stir 
and boil I minute. Remove from the fire ; add seasonings, 
chicken, and the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Stir together 
rapidly until evenly mixed. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, 
and stir them carefully into the mixture, raising the latter 
always from the bottom with a spoon ; then give I or 2 
brisk turns with the spoon ; have a greased bake-dish heated ; 
pour the mixture into it, and bake in a quick oven 20 to 25 
minutes. Serve immediately or it will fall. N. B. — The 
chicken must be chopped as fine as powder, or pounded and 
rubbed through a sieve. 



BEIGNETS OF CHICKEN A LA TARTAR E. 1 87 

CHICKEN EN MA TELOTE. 

MATELOTE DE POULET. 

1 chicken, 1 carrot, cut in dice, 

1 quart of stock, 1 onion, " " " 

1 chicken liver, rubbed fine, 1 parsnip, " " " 

1 tablespoon of capers, Salt and pepper, 

% pound of mushrooms, Butter and flour. 

Joint the chicken as for fricassee. Rub the pieces with 
butter, and roll them in flour. Put them in a pan in the 
oven to brown. Meanwhile fry the vegetables in butter for 
20 minutes. When the chicken is brown, in about 20 
minutes, put it and the vegetables into a stewpan with the 
broth or same quantity of water. Add the liver, capers, salt, 
and pepper. Cook gently for f- of an hour. Then add the 
mushrooms, cut not too fine. Simmer 15 minutes longer. 
If the gravy is not thick enough, after removing the chicken 
to a hot dish, bring it to a brisk boil ; stir in about 1 tea- 
spoon of corn-starch, rubbed smooth with a little cold water ; 
stir and boil 2 minutes, and pour over the chicken. Serve 
with a border of macaroni, rice, or mashed potato. The 
above receipt is for a tender young chicken. 

BEIGNETS OF CHICKEN A LA TARTARE. 

BEIGNETS DE POULET A LA TARTARE. 

Pieces of cold chicken, Lard, pepper, and salt, 

Fritter batter, Tartare Sauce. 

Cut the chicken into neat, even pieces, about 1x2 inches. 
Have the lard deep enough in the pan to cook the beignets 
without allowing them to touch the bottom. Dip the pieces 
of chicken into Fritter Batter (see receipt). Note. — The 
batter should be very thick. Drop them into the boiling 
lard, and as they become pale golden-yellow, skim them out 
and lay on a piece of paper in mouth of the oven until dry. 
Serve in a pyramid on a cut paper or folded napkin. Gar- 
nish with a bunch of Fried Parsley (see receipt), and serve 



1 88 GOOD-LIVING. 

with a Tartare Sauce (see receipt). The beignets should 
puff like dough-nuts. A very good addition to the above is 
half the quantity of ham cut in strips and fried with the 
chicken. 

MARYLAND CHICKEN WITH CORN DODGERS. 

2 young chickens, Cream, 

Lard, Pepper, 

Parsley, Salt, 

Cold corn-meal mush, Flour. 

The chickens for this must be young and tender. When 
cleaned, joint them as for fricassee. Have the lard quite 
deep in the frying-pan and bring it to a boil. Having made 
sure of this important point, wipe the chicken and drop the 
pieces into the boiling lard. Fry until well browned and 
cooked through, from 15 to 25 minutes, according to the size 
of the pieces. The thick pieces of breast, etc., will take 
longer than the others. As the pieces are cooked, remove 
to a hot dish. When all are done, pour off the top of the 
lard, leaving in the pan any gravy of the chicken that may 
remain. Return the pan to the fire and pour in about 2 gills 
or more of cream. Dredge in a little flour ; stir ; bring it to 
a boil, and let it boil 3 minutes. Season with pepper and 
salt. Pour this over the chicken. Sprinkle over the top 
some finely-chopped parsley. Have ready firm, cold corn- 
meal mush. Cut it into slices fully \ inch thick ; cut these 
into even, diamond-shaped pieces ; dip them lightly in 
egg, cover with flour, and fry in butter. Garnish the edge 
of the platter with these corn dodgers, and serve. This 
receipt came from the land of Maryland chicken. 

PEBRE (SPANISH). 

Pieces of cold chicken, Sweet oil, 

2 cloves, Lemon-juice, 

Salt, Pinch of saffron. 

Cut in pieces the chicken which has been previously boiled 
with salt and whole peppers. Bring the sweet oil to a boil. 



CHICKEN A LA REINE. 1 89 

Drop in the pieces of chicken. Brown slightly. Add the 
seasonings. Moisten with some of the broth in which the 
chicken has been boiled. Cover. Boil up once and serve. 
Garnish with large Croutons (see receipt). 

AS ADO (SPANISH FRICASSEE). 

I chicken, whole, 1 clove of garlic, 

Salt and cayenne, 1 slice of ham, 

Pinch of saffron, Corn-starch. 

Put the chicken, when it is cleaned and trussed, into a pot 
of boiling water. Skim as it boils. The water should cover 
the chicken, but no more. Add the other ingredients. 
When tender, which will depend entirely upon the age of 
the chicken, say after 1 to 2 hours' boiling, take out the 
chicken, put it into a colander over hot water, and let the 
sauce boil down until of a good strength, which will take from 
15 to 30 minutes. Strain. Return to the fire, and when 
boiling, add corn-starch rubbed up in cold water until the 
sauce is as thick as cream. Dish the chicken and the ham ; 
pour some of the sauce over it and serve the rest in a sauce- 
boat. 

CHICKEN A I A REINE. 

POULET A LA REINE. 

2 chickens, Salt and pepper, 

^ pound of salt pork, cut in pieces, Flour, 

1 carrot, cut fine, 2 quarts of broth or water, 

1 onion ' ' Bunch of sweet herbs. 

Clean and truss young chickens as for roasting. Dredge 
with salt, pepper, and flour. Lay half of the pork in the 
bottom of a stewpan which will fit in the oven. Put the 
carrot and onion with the pork, and stir over the fire until 
beginning to brown. Then put in the chickens ; cover with 
the -remainder of the pork. Cover the saucepan air-tight, 
and set in the oven for 20 minutes. Then add the boiling 
broth or water and bunch of herbs. Dredge with flour. 



I90 GOOD-LIVING. 

Cover again and return to the oven. After 1 hour turn the 
chickens over. Cook in all about 2 hours in a moderate oven. 
Dish the chickens and keep warm while you boil down the 
gravy briskly. Skim, strain, and pour over the chickens. 
Serve. N. B. — Roasting fowl can be used for the above 
receipt. 

DEVILLED CHICKEN EN CAISSES. 

POULET DIABLE EN CAISSES. 

1 pint of cold chicken or turkey, minced, 2 tablespoons of fine bread-crumbs, 

1 tablespoon of butter, Cayenne and salt, 

X pint of cream, % nutmeg, grated, 

I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 hard-boiled eggs. 

Melt the butter in a frying-pan ; add the bread-crumbs, 
cream, chicken, and seasonings. Stir until it boils. Serve 
in paper cases, casseroles, or shells. Fill the cases. Press 
the yolks of the eggs through a sieve with a potato-masher. 
Cover the surface of the chicken with this powdered egg, 
and serve. Or, chop the eggs fine and add to the mixture, 
covering the surface in this case with bread-crumbs and bits 
of butter ; set in the oven until slightly browned, and serve. 
Chopped mushrooms may be added to the above. 

Cold veal or lamb may be substituted for the chicken in 
the same proportions. 

CHICKEN WITH RICE AND TOMA TO SA UCE. 

FRICASSEE DE POULET, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Singe, draw, clean a 4-lb. chicken or fowl ; cut it in joints 
as for fricassee. Put into a stewpan ; half cover with boiling 
water, and simmer. Add \ cup of washed rice, 1 teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Boil gently until the chicken is tender, \\ or 2\ 
hours, according to age. Place the chicken in the centre of 
a dish with the rice around. Make a rich Tomato Sauce 
(see receipt) and pour over the chicken. Macaroni may be 
substituted for the rice. 



CHICKEN PA TJE JELLIED. I9I 

CHICKEN PATE JELLIED. 

PAIN DE VOLAILLE. 

% cold boiled chicken, chopped very fine, Salt pork, 

4 sausages, chopped very fine, 3 eggs, 

Grated bread-crumbs, Nutmeg, 

Pepper and salt, Lemon-juice, 
1 gill of wine, white or red. 

Remove the chicken from the bone ; remove the skins of the 
sausages, and chop both as fine as paste. Use an Enterprise 
Chopper if you have it. The bulk of bread-crumbs should 
equal that of the chicken, as should also the bulk of sausage 
meat, that is, about \ of each. Mix all well together ; add 
the seasonings to taste. Meanwhile boil in a saucepan the 
bones of the chicken, covered with boiling water, 2 cloves of 
garlic, 3 cloves, and 6 allspice. When it has boiled long 
enough to be well flavored, about 30 minutes, use some of 
the water to moisten the pate. Lastly, add the wine and 
eggs ; mix thoroughly. Line a tin mould with straight sides 
with thin slices of salt pork, covering every part of the sur- 
face. Pour in the mixture ; cover also with thin slices of 
pork. Tie over the top' a well-buttered paper, and put in a 
very moderate oven for about 1 hour, or a little longer, until 
set perfectly firm. The oven must neither be too quick, or 
the loaf will crack, nor to slow, or the loaf will be dried out. 
When done, set away to cool. When cold, turn out of the 
mould, remove the slices of pork, and serve surrounded with 
jelly. Or, having rinsed the same mould in cold water, fill it 
to the depth of a \ inch with jelly (use jelly as directed 
for Jellied Tongue). When this is firm, set in the pate ; fill 
the remaining space between the pate and sides of the mould 
with the liquid jelly, and set away to harden. Pour some of 
the same jelly into a shallow dish and set away also. When 
ready to serve, turn the jellied pate out carefully, crumb the 
the jelly in the shallow dish with a fork, arrange it tastefully 
around the base of the pate, and serve. Decorate and gar- 
nish to taste. Recommended. 



I92 GOOD-LIVING. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES NO. I. 

CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE I.. 

2 chickens, boiled, 1 nutmeg, grated, 

1 pair of brains, boiled, Salt, 

r cup of chopped suet, 2 sprigs of parsley, chopped, 

1 lemon, juice and grated rind, 1 small tablespoon of grated onion, 

Cream, or same quantity of White Sauce, Black pepper and cayenne. 

Chop or grind the meat as fine as possible (use Enterprise 
Chopper if you have it) ; mix all well together and add 
enough cream or thick White Sauce (see receipt) to make it 
quite soft. The white sauce is best, as it hardens when cold, 
enabling you to mould the croquettes much more easily. 
When subjected to the heat of frying it becomes soft and 
creamy again. After making the croquettes a few times you 
will ascertain by experience exactly how the mixture should 
feel to the touch. To mould the croquettes into shape when 
the mixture is cold, have on the table by you a plate of 
flour, a saucer of beaten egg, and a deep bowl of sifted 
bread-crumbs. Flour your hands well; take a tablespoonful 
of the meat, roll it between the palms of your hands, and 
shape evenly and neatly. Do not make them too narrow for 
their length or they may break in frying : say 1 x2|- inches. 
Dip them first in the egg, then in the crumbs, keeping them 
well shaped, covering with just as much crumb as they will 
take up. Then place on a flat' dish, separate from one 
another that the air may reach all parts. Set away in the 
ice-box for at least 1 hour. Use only 1 hand for the 
bread-crumbs, if possible, and 1 for the eggs, or you will 
soon find yourself with thimbles of dipping on all 10 
fingers. This amount of croquette-meat will make about 24 
medium-sized croquettes. When ready to cook them, have 
deep lard boiling in a kettle. Use a frying-basket. Lay the 
croquettes in the basket and proceed as directed in General 
Directions for Frying. When golden brown, skim out and 
lay on a clean piece of paper in the mouth of the oven to 
dry. When dry, dish tastefully on a cut paper or folded 



JELLIED CHICKEN. 1 93 

napkin. Garnish with a large bunch of Fried Parsley (see 
receipt). 

N. B. — Boil the brains previously as directed (see receipt). 
The croquettes should be as soft as thick cream in the inside 
when served, with a delicate gold-colored covering outside. 

PLAIN CHICKEN CROQUETTES NO. II. 

CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE II. 

}( pounds of cold chicken, chopped fine, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 

yi pound of mashed potatoes, 2 ounces of butter, 

2 tablespoons of cream, 1 egg, 

Pepper, salt, Nutmeg. 

Mix well, form into balls, dip in egg and bread-crumbs (see 
Chicken Croquettes), and fry in boiling lard (see General 
Directions for Frying). Excellent. 

JELLIED CHICKEN. 

CHAUD-FROID DE VOLAILLE. 

Boil a fowl in just water enough to cover it ; add to it 1 
clove of garlic, 4 cloves, 6 allspice, \ teaspoon of salt, and 1 
bay-leaf. Boil until the meat is ready to fall from the 
bones. Pick off the meat ; chop very fine (use Enterprise 
Chopper if you have it), and season with salt and pepper. 
Rinse out a smooth mould in cold water. Lay in the bottom 
some slices of cold hard-boiled egg, then a layer of the 
chopped chicken, another layer of egg, another of chicken, 
and so on until the mould is filled. Boil down the broth of 
the chicken to about 3 gills ; strain ; season with pepper, salt, 
and cayenne if necessary ; pour over the chicken. Set away 
in a cold place for several hours until firm, then turn it out 
and serve with salad. This is a good dish for tea. Or, when 
the liquor is ready to pour over the chicken, let it cool, and 
add to about 2 gills of it the same quantity of rich Mayon- 
naise Sauce (see receipt). Fill the mould with this mixed 
with chicken ; set away to harden ; turn out and serve with 
a salad. 
13 



194 GOOD-LIVING. 

DEVILLED CHICKEN. 

POULET A LA DIABLE. 

The chicken must be boiled tender in salted water. When 
cold, cut in even pieces ; dip into melted butter and broil. 
Sauce for same : 

I teaspoon of made mustard, 2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce, 

3 tablespoons of vinegar. 

Bring to a boil together and pour over the chicken. Any 
pieces of cold chicken may be used for this dish, but must 
not be cut too small. 

CHICKEN JELL Y. 

Having made a good Chicken Consomme (see receipt), 
let it stand until cold ; remove all fat, and to I quart of this 
add: 

The pared rind and juice of i lemon, i pinch of cayenne, 

2 even teaspoons of salt, Whites and crushed shells of 2 eggs. 

Beat the whites sufficiently to mix them, but not to a 
froth ; mix all well together ; heat it slowly ; let it boil 
briskly for io minutes; set on the hearth 5 minutes to 
settle, then pour it through a jelly-bag. Do not squeeze the 
bag. Rinse a bowl or mould in cold water ; pour the jelly 
in, and set away to harden. If the consomme has not 
jellied when cold before clearing it, it should be boiled down 
at least £ ; or else, melt gelatine in a little cold consomme, 
allowing 1 box of gelatine to 3 pints of jelly. Stir it into 
the boiling jelly with the whites of eggs. Strain as above. 
This will insure a firm jelly. 

CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES. 

POULET FARCI AUX TOMATES. 

Having cleaned a fine, young, roasting-chicken, fill it with 
a Ham Force-meat (see receipts). Truss, and lay it in a 



CHICKEN A LA TERRAPIN. 1 95 

roasting-pan with 6 tablespoons of sweet oil, pinch of salt, 
and juice of I lemon. Baste frequently, allowing about 15 
minutes to the pound in a moderate oven (see directions 
for Roast Chicken). Have ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see 
receipt). Dish the chicken ; pour the tomato sauce into the 
pan with the oil, etc., that remains from the roasting ; boil 
down rapidly for 3 or 4 minutes, and pour over the chicken. 
Spanish receipt. 

BOILED CHICKEN WITH WHITE SAUCE. 

POULET AU BLANC. 

Singe, clean, and truss a fowl whole, as directed for roast- 
ing. Put it into a saucepan with cold water to cover. Add 
the same seasoning as for Fricassee of Chicken, and finish 
the sauce exactly according to same receipt. The fowl will 
require from 1 hour and 30 minutes to 3 hours, according to 
age and toughness. The older it is, the more gently it should 
be simmered. Pour some of the sauce over the fowl. Serve 
the rest in a sauce-boat. 

CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON SAUCE. 

POULET A L'ESTRAGON. 

Prepare exactly as directed above, adding to the sauce a 
few small sprigs of fresh tarragon about 10 minutes before 
serving. Pour some of the sauce over the fowl, and serve 
the rest in a sauce-boat. 

CHICKEN A LA TERRAPIN 

Cut cold boiled chicken in 1 inch dice. Make a Terrapin 
Sauce (see receipt). Put the chicken in the sauce, and set 
away for at least 6 hours, if possible. When required, warm 
the chicken in a bowl over a vessel of boiling water ( bain- 
marie). It will take at least 30 minutes to heat, and must 
not boil. 



I96 GOOD-LIVING. 

COCK-A-LEEKIE. 

POULE AU RIZ. 

I fowl, 1 cup of rice, 

6 leeks, Flour, 

1 bay-leaf, Butter, 

Salt, ]/ z inch piece of red-pepper pod. 

Draw, clean, and truss a fowl as for roasting (see direc- 
tions). Put it into an iron pot. Cover with cold water. 
Add the leeks, pepper-pod (without seeds), bay-leaf, and salt. 
Cover. Bring to a boil, then set where it will simmer gently 
for 1 hour. Then add the rice, well washed, and boil stead- 
ily, but gently, for 1 hour longer. Dish the fowl. Strain 
out the rice and leeks and heap around the fowl. Return 
the broth to the fire. Now blend together over the fire 
about 1 tablespoonful each of flour and butter; do not 
brown. Stir in enough of the boiling chicken-broth to 
make the sauce as thick as rich cream. Pour this over the 
fowl. Garnish and serve. Should the fowl be very tough, 
allow 15 to 30 minutes longer cooking before adding the rice. 

TO ROAST A TURKEY. 

DINDE ROTIE. 

Clean and prepare the turkey as directed, trussing it ac- 
cording to Directions for Trussing a Fowl. A young hen- 
turkey is best for roasting. Before trussing it, fill the craw 
with any of the Dressings (see receipts) you may fancy ; 
chestnut stuffing is highly recommended, if obtainable. It 
is generally advisable not to stuff the body unless the dress- 
ing selected is very moist and not too high-flavored, which 
would take away from the delicate quality of the bird itself. 
However, that is a matter of taste ; but it is urged that the 
body should not be filled with any dry stuffing, or the juices 
of the bird will be absorbed by it and the meat greatly 
injured in quality. It is recommended to put into the body 
of the turkey its own liver and a large spoonful of butter. 



TURKE Y-CHICK. 1 97 

After the turkey is trussed, dredge thoroughly with flour, 
rubbing it in with the hand. Set it in the roasting-pan ; 
put 2 large tablespoonfuls of butter and about 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of boiling water in the pan ; set the pan in the oven (un- 
less you are equipped for roasting before the fire in the good, 
old-fashioned way). The oven must be moderate. A second 
pan should be placed over the turkey to prevent the breast- 
bone from browning and perhaps burning, before the turkey 
is thoroughly done. Baste very frequently, and watch with 
a most solicitous and careful eye that the fire is not 
hot enough to burn, or cool enough to dry out the 
turkey. One weighing, before cleaning, about 8 pounds, 
should be allowed I hour and 30 to 45 minutes, or rather 
more than 10 minutes per pound. A very large turkey, not 
less than 3 hours. When nearly done, remove the top pan 
and baste again, until well-browned all over. Then take the 
turkey from the pan ; set the pan on the top of the range ; 
add a small pinch of flour, a little boiling water, and stir ; 
add the giblets and liver (previously boiled), the former 
chopped, the latter mashed. Stir 2 or 3 minutes ; add salt 
and pepper and serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish the turkey 
with cresses or parsley. 

N.B.— If your turkey is not young and tender, do not 
attempt to roast it. In that case, cook it according to re- 
ceipt for Plain Braise, Turkey En Daube or Boiled Turkey 
(see receipts). 

TURKEY-CHICK. 

DINDONNEAU. 

This is a most dainty and delicate dish. The turkeys 
should weigh from 2 to 3, or at most 3^ lbs. They are then 
in perfection. Split one down the back, after having 
cleaned it as directed (see Directions for Cleaning Poul- 
try). Spread it open, exactly as a chicken for broiling. 
Rub it all over with butter ; lay it in a roasting-pan ; put 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter in small bits over it, and about 



I98 GOOD-LIVING. 

3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water in the pan. Cover it with 
another pan that will fit it air-tight, to keep in the steam. 
Place this in a moderately-quick oven. Baste it occasion- 
ally, closing again tightly and quickly. It will take from 45 
to 60 minutes. When cooked, dish it ; pour the butter from 
the pan over it ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; garnish with 
cresses or parsley, and serve either with Cucumber Salad, 
Celery Mayonnaise, or with a mayonnaise of tomatoes, espe- 
cially if the latter are from the hot-house, or Primeurs. If 
served as an entree, instead of taking the place of game 
or roast at dinner, it is excellent with Chestnut Sauce (see 
receipt), but is best as first indicated. In Europe this is 
considered a great delicacy, but is not as yet sufficiently 
known or appreciated in this country. 

TURKE Y EN DA UBE. 

DINDE EN DAUBE. 

Large hen-turkey, not too young, Slice of salt pork, 

Bunch of parsley, Half calf's foot, 

Bunch of thyme, 2 onions, sliced, 

Bunch of celery leaves, 2 carrots, " 

Chervil, 10 cloves, 

Bouquet of sweet herbs, 1 clove of garlic, 

6 gills of broth, 2 tablespoons of brandy, 

I bay-leaf, 1 pint of white wine, 
Pepper and salt. 

Clean and dress your turkey, which should not be too 
young, or it will go to pieces before being properly cooked. 
If liked, lard the breast with strips of salt pork, salt, pepper, 
parsley, chervil, and thyme ; but this may be omitted. Fill 
the craw with one of the various Dressings (see receipts). 
Sew up and truss as directed. Lay in the bottom of a deep, 
large iron pot slices of fat pork, the calf's foot, salt, pepper, 
onions, carrots, herbs, etc. On this bed, lay the turkey. 
Pour over it the broth, brandy, and white wine. Cover. 
Wring out a clean cloth in hot water, and twist it around 
the lid to prevent the escape of steam. Simmer very slowly 



ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES. 1 99 

for fully 5 hours, or more, if old, turning it once with great 
care when about half cooked. When done, lift the turkey 
out upon a hot dish ; skim and strain the sauce ; pour some 
over the turkey, serve the rest in a sauce-boat. When set 
away to cool, put the turkey in a large bowl ; pour all of its 
sauce around, and it will become jellied. This, although 
apparently an elaborate dish, is, in fact, perfectly practicable, 
and the result is, a Christmas turkey fit for a king. 

BOILED TURKEY. 

DINDE, SAUCE BLANCHE. 

Select by preference a hen-turkey. Draw it carefully (see 
directions). Rinse it out with cold water and a pinch of 
baking-soda. Wipe dry. Truss it (see directions). Stuff 
the craw with a dressing of oysters (see Force-meats), with 
celery cut in £-inch pieces added to the force-meat. Rub 
the bird all over with lemon-juice, to whiten the skin, and 
lay it in boiling water ; or, better still, flour a cloth and tie 
the turkey in it. Boil very slowly, allowing 1 5 to 20 minutes 
to the pound. The older and tougher the turkey, the more 
gently it must cook, and the longer ; then it will not be 
stringy. Serve with Oyster and Celery Sauce (see receipts). 
Miss Leslie says : " With a turkey (boiled) there should be 
on table a ham or a smoked tongue." This is an old- 
fashioned custom, and one which we cannot improve upon. 
If not boiled in a cloth, the broth from the turkey will make 
an excellent soup next day, boiled down with rice, vege- 
tables, and seasonings. 

A dressing of Sausage Force-meat may be substituted for 
the above, if preferred. 

ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES. 

DINDE TRUFFEE. 

For this, select a fresh, young hen-turkey. Singe and 
draw as directed. Cut 1 pound of lean ham into dice ; set 



200 GOOD-LIVING. 

it over the fire in a saucepan ; when hot, add 2 pounds of fresh 
truffles (the very best to be had), \ of a nutmeg, \ of a tea- 
spoonful of white pepper, and I bay-leaf ; stir over the fire 
for 15 minutes, and set away to cool. When cold, put 2 
tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the craw of the turkey ; 
put the remainder into the body of the turkey. Sew it up. 
Truss, and hang it in a cool, dry place for about 5 days in 
winter ; in warmer weather, 2 days. Roast as directed for 
Roast Turkey, and serve with Truffle or Madeira Sauce. 

ROAST TURKEY WITH MUSHROOMS. 

DINDE ROTIE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

Proceed exactly as for Roast Turkey with Truffles, (see 
above), substituting mushrooms. 

ROAST CAPON. 

CHAPON ROTI. 

Proceed exactly as directed for Roast Chicken (see re- 
ceipt) ; serving on a bed of water-cresses, with the plain 
pan-gravy strained in a boat. 

CAPON WITH TRUFFLES. 

CHAPON TRUFFE. 

Proceed exactly as for Roast Turkey with Truffles (see 
receipt). 

GUINEA-FOWL. 

PINTADE ROTIE. 

This is a bird which seems to be but little known or appre- 
ciated in this country, whereas " Pintade Rotie " is almost 
as familiar on the Continental menu as is " Poulet Roti," 
and very certainly appears often under the guise of other 
game. A young, tender guinea-fowl is not to be despised. 
The marks by which the younger ones are known are that 



ROAST GOOSE. 201 

the breast bone is pliant at the tip, the wings very tender, 
and the legs smooth, free from feathers, and of a pale-yellow 
color. When well selected and well cooked, they are not 
very inferior to pheasants and partridges. They may be 
roasted (see Roast Chicken) ; but it is recommended that 
they be cooked according to either .of the following receipts. 

BROILED GUINEA-FOWL. 

PINTADE GRILLEE. 

If very young and tender, singe, draw, split, and broil as 
directed for Broiled Chicken. Serve on a bed of water- 
cresses, with a salad. 

BRAISED GUINEA-FOWL. 

PINTADE BRAISEE. 

Proceed exactly as directed for a Plain Braise, using 2 
carrots and 2 onions sliced and fried brown, and the gravy 
thickened with a roux of browned butter and flour. They 
should be trussed as for roasting, and not stuffed. Cook 
them very slowly and gently for about I hour and 15 min- 
utes, if young and tender ; longer, if old and tough. When 
done, remove them to a hot dish ; place the carrots around 
the birds ; strain the gravy ; pour some of it over the birds, 
and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 

Or, omit the thickening, and do not serve the carrots, but 
garnish with water-cresses and serve as a roast with a salad. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

OIE ROTIE. 

This is a most savory dish, provided your goose be a ten- 
der one ; therefore it is essential to make sure of this fact 
before beginning. This is readily ascertained by one who 
has the habit of drawing poultry. In selecting it, see that 
the end of the breast bone yields easily to pressure ; that 



202 GOOD-LIVING. 

the wings are supple and very tender at the pinion ; that the 
legs are smooth and yellow and free from feathers. A 
" green goose " is most desirable for roasting, if you can get 
it. If there is any doubt about the tenderness of your 
goose, do not attempt to roast it ; braise it according to the 
receipt for Plain Braise,, and you can serve it with all the 
appearance of being roasted, and at the same time ensure 
its being good eating. 

Draw, singe, and wipe out the bird, but do not wash it if 
it can be avoided ; have it as sweet and clean as possible. 
If not perfectly sweet, you may rinse it out quickly with a 
quart of cold water in which is dissolved I teaspoonful of 
baking-soda. Make a dressing. Unless you prefer some 
other, the following is a good one : 

4 apples, peeled and cored, y z teaspoon of thyme, 

4 onions, sliced, Mashed potato, 

4 leaves of sage, Pepper and salt. 

Boil the apples, onions, and herbs with sufficient water to 
cover them ; when soft, rub all through a sieve ; add enough 
mashed potato to make it sufficiently firm for a dressing, but 
not dry enough to stick to the hands. Season with pepper 
and salt, and stuff the bird, both craw and body. Sew it 
up. Truss it (see directions). Tie and skewer it firmly. 
Put it into a roasting-pan with a large lump of butter or 
sweet drippings and about 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. 
Rub the breast of the goose well with butter ; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper. Baste very frequently, every 10 or 15 
minutes, and each time thoroughly. Roast about 1 hour 
and 30 minutes. Watch the oven, that your goose may not 
cook too quickly or get over-done. If in danger of brown- 
ing too much, cover it with a second pan and turn some of 
the heat off from the oven. If the goose is not at the young- 
est, or " green," stage, you must cover it from the beginning, 
roast it longer, and with more moderate fire, basting very 
often and browning at the last. The time given allows for 
a good-sized bird. 



SALMI OF TAME DUCK. 203 

Sauce : Boil the giblets apart ; chop the gizzards and mash 
the liver. When the goose is cooked, remove it from the 
pan to a hot dish. Remove strings and skewers. Set the 
pan on the top of the range ; add a little boiling water; stir; 
blend a teaspoonful of corn-starch with a little cold water ; 
stir it into the boiling gravy ; add the giblets, etc., salt, pep- 
per, and boil 3 minutes. Serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish 
the goose with water-cresses, and serve with Apple Sauce 
(see receipt). 

TAME DUCK. 

CANARDS R6TIS. 

Proceed exactly as for Roast Goose (see receipt), stuffing 
with sage and onion dressing. The same remarks apply as 
to their tenderness ; if you are not perfectly certain of it, do 
not risk roasting, but prepare them according to receipt for 
Plain Braise. If roasted, allow 1 hour for large ones; baste 
frequently. They require to be cooked much longer than 
wild ducks. Serve with giblet sauce, if liked ; otherwise, 
with the plain pan-gravy in a sauce-boat. Serve with green 
peas, spinach, or a salad. Apple sauce or currant jelly may 
be handed at the same time. A very savory accompaniment 
is Onion or Soubise Sauce (see receipt). 

SALMI OF TAME DUCK. 

SALMI DE CANARD. 

Cut cold duck into neat pieces. Put the giblets into a 
saucepan with the amount of hot water you will require for 
the sauce, more or less according to the quantity of duck. 
Add to it 2 onions, 2 sprigs of parsley, both chopped fine, 
3 cloves, 1 leaf of sage, pepper and salt. Cover, and let the 
sauce simmer for about 1 hour, until well flavored. Add the 
pieces of duck ; let them stew slowly for 2 hours, adding a 
little more boiling water if necessary. Just before it is done, 
add 1 gill of port wine and a little lemon-juice. Blend a tea- 
spoonful of corn-starch with a little cold water ; stir it into 



204 GOOD-LIVING. 

the boiling sauce, and boil 2 minutes ; or thicken with a 
Brown Roux (see receipt). Arrange the duck neatly on a 
hot dish ; pour the gravy over, and garnish the edge with 
large, diamond-shaped Croutons (see receipt). Or make a 
Rice Border (see receipt), and serve with the stew in the 
centre. 

The quantity of corn-starch required depends upon the 
amount of sauce to be thickened, 1 large teaspoonful being 
sufficient to thicken I pint of sauce. A few handfuls of 
fresh green peas boiled first, may be added to the stew 10 or 
15 minutes before it is served ; or add a handful of stoned 
olives. 

DUCK SAUTE WITH GREEN PEAS. 

CANARD SAUTE AUX PETITS POIS. 

Proceed exactly as for Chicken Saut6 with Green Peas 
(see receipt). 

TAME DUCK BRAISED. 

CANARD BRAISE. 

Select a large Muscovy duck ; clean, truss, and stuff with 
potato and onions (see Roast Goose). Cook according to 
receipt for Plain Braise. Recommended. 






GAME. 
WILD DUCKS. 

CANARDS SAUVAGES. 

These should always be plain roasted the first day, and 
under no circumstances should they be stuffed. Of course 
canvas-backs stand at the head of the list, but red-heads 
are undoubtedly second. It sometimes happens that the 
more ordinary kinds of ducks, though they may be of the 
tenderest, have a most unpleasantly strong flavor. It is said 
that a parboiled onion placed in the body of one of this 
kind, will frequently absorb the strong, disagreeable quality 
and make the duck very acceptable, if its skin is not eaten ; 
this also contributes to its rankness. In case the onion sys- 
tem is tried, the reader is warned that it must be removed 
most carefully as soon as the duck is taken from the fire. 
Have at hand a bowl of cold water, and the instant the 
onion is taken out of the duck, plunge it under the water, and 
take it away as quickly as possible, for in its turn it becomes 
most offensive. 

If the ducks are of the choicest kind, leave the heads on, 
and when plucked, singed, drawn, truss them with the head 
under the wing. Tie the legs together to keep them from 
spreading, and cut the wings off close to the body ; a duck- 
wing never being served, and often proving a sad stumbling- 
block to the carver. In cleaning ducks, avoid washing them ; 
simply wipe them out with a wet cloth and dry them imme- 
diately. The fire should be in good order, and the oven 
205 



2o6 GOOD-LIVING. 

fiercely hot. Put the ducks both (if of the same size) in the 
roasting-pan, unless you are fortunate enough to be able to 
roast them before the fire ; put a large lump of butter in the 
pan, with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Rub the 
breasts of the ducks with butter. Now put the ducks in the 
oven ; if your fire is right, they will be done to a turn in 15 
minutes, if of medium size. Baste frequently. As a rule 
there is often I duck of the pair a little larger than the other ; 
in this case, the larger duck must be put in the pan in the 
oven alone, first, for 3 to 5 minutes, according to the differ- 
ence in size; then add in the smaller duck and cook 15 
minutes. This time is exact (if the fire is right) for ducks 
the size of canvas-backs and red-heads. If much larger, 
allow 20 minutes or more. The epicure is much shocked if 
wild duck is cooked beyond the point of the blood running 
red when pierced with a fork in carving. Be sure the plates 
on which they are to be served are put to heat long enough 
beforehand to get them very hot. Better far let the guest 
wait a minute or two for the ducks than to allow the ducks 
to wait for the guest. Carve the ducks in thick slabs, not in 
thin, wafery slices, as is too often seen. The perfect way of 
serving ducks (when they are the dish par excellence, as, for 
instance, at a game supper), is to allow half a duck to each 
guest, and serve it on a hot-water plate. In the land of 
ducks the dish is frequently garnished with small croquettes 
of fried hominy. The usual mode of serving is to hand at 
the same time currant jelly and dressed celery. 

SALMI OF WILD DUCK WITH OLIVES. 

SALMI DE CANARD AUX OLIVES. 

The next day, take the legs, wings, and all the good parts 
of the ducks that remain; cut them into neatly-shaped pieces 
and make thereof a tasty brown stew ; that is, rub together 
over the fire until brown 1 tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour ; add by degrees 3^ gills of good broth, and stir until 
smooth. Boil until sufficiently thick ; season with salt, pep- 



WOODCOCK AND SNIPE. 207 

per; lay in the pieces of duck, and set on one side to warm, 
and stew gently for 30 to 45 minutes ; add wine to taste and 
a few olives cut from the stones. Garnish with diamond- 
shaped Croutons (see receipt). 

WILD DUCK WITH JELL Y SA UCE. 

Cut pieces of cold wild duck evenly ; warm them slowly 
in a sauce made of I large tablespoonful of butter, \ a 
tumbler of currant jelly, and 1 gill of port wine. 

ROAST GROUSE. 

Prepare exactly the same as partridge, allowing less time 
for the cooking ; being dark-fleshed game, they should be 
served underdone. If the oven is just right, they will 
require about 25 minutes, or a little more according to size. 
When sufficiently cooked, the meat should feel quite elastic 
under pressure of the fork. They must never be thoroughly 
cooked through. Serve the sauce from the pan in a sauce- 
boat. Dish the grouse on slices of toast moistened with 
broth and buttered ; garnish with water-cresses, or with 
Fried Breadcrumbs (see receipt) and parsley. Serve with a 
salad. 

BROILED GROUSE. 

If the grouse are young and tender, broil according to 
either receipt given for Broiled Partridge, cooking 10 or 15 
minutes less. Garnish with cresses and serve with a salad. 

WOODCOCK AND SNIPE. 

BECASSES ET BECASSINES SAUTEES. 

Pluck and clean, but never draw either of these birds if 
you are preparing them for epicures ; to have the birds 
served without the trail would be quite shocking, in their 
judgment. The heads should also remain on. Pluck the 
neck and skin the head carefully. Twist the neck around 



208 GOOD-LIVING. 

and run the beak through legs and body ; this rounds out 
the breast. Have a deep pan with lard enough to com- 
pletely immerse the birds. When you are certain that it is 
boiling (see General Directions for Frying), lay the birds in 
and leave them from 3 to 5 minutes, according to their size ; 
for these same epicures decree that the birds must be served 
very underdone. Prepare a slice of toast for each moistened 
with butter and broth. Place a bird on each slice of toast 
and serve with a salad. 

WOODCOCK AND SNIPE ROASTED NO. I. 

BECASSES ET BECASSINES ROTIES I. 

Do not draw these birds ; otherwise proceed exactly as 
for roasting quail. Allow about ^ the length of time to 
cook, as they should be served very underdone. Each bird 
should be rolled, when trussed, in a thin slice of fat pork, 
not bacon ; lay each one in the roasting-pan on a piece of 
toast, which piece of toast, absorbing all the juices that fall 
from the bird in cooking, must be served under it. Remove 
the pork. Garnish with water-cresses ; serve with a salad. 
Hand at the same time currant jelly. This latter is a matter 
of taste. 

ROASTED WOODCOCK NO. II. 

BECASSE ROTIE II. 

Carefully pluck ; skin the neck and head. Truss with the 
head under the wing. Bend the legs back at the first joint, 
pressing the feet up against the thigh. Do not draw them. 
Tie a strip of pork around each ; run a small iron skewer 
through the birds and tie it to the spit, if you can roast be- 
fore the fire, otherwise put them on a roasting-pan in the 
oven. Have a fiercely hot fire. Place the roasting-pan, with 
slices of buttered toast, beneath to catch whatever falls from 
the birds in cooking. Baste with melted butter. Roast 
from 12 to 15 minutes; then sprinkle the birds with salt and 
pepper, and serve on the toast. Garnish with cresses. Serve 
with a salad. 



PARTRIDGES BROILED NO I. 20O. 

Snipe may be treated in the same manner, as also all small 
birds, such as larks, etc, etc. 

REED-BIRDS. 

ORTOLANS. 

As a rule, never draw these birds ; cook them with the trail 
in. Simply pick, wash, clean, and quickly wipe them ; truss 
neatly, and lay in boiling lard for 3 to 5 minutes. Serve 
very hot on toast. Serve at the same time a salad. 

REED-BIRDS BROILED. 

ORTOLANS GRILLES. 

This is an exception to the above rule, for the birds must 
be drawn. When clean, split ; place them in the folds of a 
clean towel, and, with the rolling-pin, crush the bones quite 
flat. Season with salt and pepper ; spread on a very hot 
greased broiler. Broil them over a clear fire, turning the 
inner side toward the fire ; in a minute or two, turn. Con- 
tinue to turn until browned outside. The fire must be very 
quick that the outside may sear without cooking the inside 
too much. They will not require more than 4 or 5 minutes, 
as reed-birds are always served under-done. Serve on soft, 
buttered toast ; put a little salt and pepper and melted butter 
on each. Garnish with cresses and serve with a salad. 

PLOVER. 

PLUVIER. 

Prepare according to any of the receipts for reed-birds or 
snipe, leaving the trail in, and serving on toast. Like all dark- 
fleshed game, they should be served very under-done. 

PARTRIDGES BROILED NO. I. 

PERDRIX GRILLEES I. 

Pluck and draw ; split, and wipe inside and out with a wet 
cloth ; do not wash them if it can be avoided. Spread open 
14 



2 1 GOOD-LIVING. 

like a broiled chicken, keeping in place by a skewer run 
through the wings and body. Have a clear, hot fire. Heat 
the gridiron first. Grease it well. Lay the bird on the grid- 
iron with the inner (or bone) side toward the coals. Broil 
the bird under, not over the fire, if possible. Now rub the 
breast all over with butter ; place a pan under the gridiron to 
receive all the butter and juice that may drop in the cooking. 
Turn the bird from time to time, leaving it at least twice as 
long with the inner side toward the blaze. Each time you 
turn it, brush it with melted butter. It will require to cook 
about 25 minutes. Being white-fleshed game, partridges re- 
quire to be thoroughly cooked through, and, as their one 
fault is dryness, they must be constantly basted and carefully 
watched, that they do not scorch or get over-done. Have 
ready slices of buttered toast. Trim the crust from the edges 
and moisten with the butter from the pan. Lay the bird on 
the toast ; put a little melted butter on the breast ; sprinkle 
with pepper and salt. Serve with a salad. 

PARTRIDGES BROILED NO. II. 

PERDRIX GRILLEES II. 

Split and prepare as above ; lay in a tin pan with slices of 
pork over the breasts ; put butter the size of a walnut, pepper 
and salt, and about 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water in the 
pan. Cover air-tight to keep the steam in. Set in the oven. 
Baste frequently. They will require 20 to 30 minutes ac- 
cording to the heat of the oven. When sufficiently cooked, 
the flesh should feel quite firm under pressure of the fork. 
Do not pierce the skin with the fork or the juices will escape ; 
simply press with the flat side of it, and you will easily ascer- 
tain when it is cooked. The softer the flesh is, the more 
under-done. Garnish with cresses and serve as directed in 
preceding receipt. This last way of cooking partridges has 
the advantage of making them very juicy. If you wish to 
give the appearance to the bird of having been broiled, heat 
the gridiron very hot, and, when you remove the partridge 



PARTRIDGES A UX CHOUX. 211 

from the pan, lay it with the breast against the bars for a few 
seconds. The hot gridiron will mark the breast in lines, as if 
it had been broiled. Serve with salad. 

ROAST PARTRIDGES. 

PERDRIX ROTIES. 

Pluck, draw, clean, wipe inside and out with a wet cloth, 
but do not wash, if it can be avoided. Truss, passing a 
wooden skewer through the thighs, another through the 
wings. Fasten a slice of pork over the breast of each. Put 
into a baking-pan with tablespoonful of butter, and 2 of boil- 
ing water or I gill of white wine. Baste frequently, and 
roast about 40 minutes. The oven must not be too hot. Re- 
move strings and skewers ; stand the partridges on buttered 
toast on a hot dish. Add to the pan 2 gills of good con- 
somme or broth ; boil up, strain, and pour over the birds. 
Garnish with water-cresses and serve with a salad. 

PARTRIDGES JELLIED. 

PERDRIX EN GELEE. 
See Quail en Compote. 

PARTRIDGES AUX CHOUX. 

PERDRIX AUX CHOUX. 

3 partridges, yi pound of bacon, 

2 smoked sausages, 1 cabbage, 

Salt pork, Consomme or broth, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Tie together : 

I carrot, cut in half, 1 onion, 

4 cloves, stuck in the onion, Small bunch of parsley, 

3 sprigs of thyme, 1 clove of garlic. 

Clean and truss the partridges as directed ; put them in a 
saucepan with the bacon cut in slices, the sausages, carrot, 
onion, herbs, and seasonings. Cover the partridges with 



212 GOOD-LIVING. 

slices of salt pork. Scald the cabbage in boiling water on the 
fire for 15 minutes ; put it for a moment in cold water; then 
drain it perfectly dry. Lay it on top of the partridges and 
cover again with strips of salt pork. Pour over sufficient 
broth or consomm£ to cover all. Simmer very gently for 2 
hours, closely covered. Lift out the cabbage ; drain a mo- 
ment and lay in the bottom of a hot dish. Upon this place 
the partridges ; arrange around them the sausages and bacon. 
Let the gravy boil down briskly, uncovered, for a few minutes, 
then strain some of it over the partridges. Perdrix aux 
Choux is quite a classical dish among the French. 

BROILED QUAIL. 

CAILLES GRILLEES. 

Pluck, clean, and split the birds, wiping with a damp cloth, 
not washing. Heat the gridiron. Lay the birds upon it 
with the under, or bone, side toward the coals. Rub the 
breasts with butter. Broil for about 8 minutes ; then turn the 
breast side toward the fire and broil about 5 minutes more, 
13 to 15 minutes in all. Do not let them scorch or dry too 
much. Have ready a piece of toast for each bird. Trim off 
the crusts ; moisten with a few drops of boiling broth, and 
butter the toast generously. Lay the birds upon the toast ; 
butter the breasts ; sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set in the 
oven 1 minute for the butter to melt. Garnish with cresses 
and serve with a salad. 

ROASTED QUAIL. 

CAILLES ROTIES. 

Clean, draw, and truss neatly. Tie a piece of fat pork 
over the breast of each bird. Put the birds in a baking-pan 
with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of boiling water. 
Stand the pan in the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, according 
to the size of the birds and heat of the oven, basting fre- 
quently with hot butter from the pan. Have ready a piece 



QUAILS EN COMPOTE (COLD). 213 

of toast for each bird ; remove the crust ; moisten with 
boiling broth and butter. Remove the pork from the birds ;_ 
stand them upon the toast ; add salt and pepper ; garnish 
with cresses and serve with a salad. 

QUAIL SAUTE IN LARD. 

CAILLES SAUTEES. 

Quail done in this way have all the appearance of being 
roasted, and at the same time preserve all their juices. 
These being inclined to be rather dry birds, this mode of 
cooking appears to be one of the best. 

Pluck, draw, and truss the birds neatly, wiping them 
inside and out with a wet cloth, but not washing them. 
Tie the legs and wings close to the sides ; or skewer them 
with small wooden tooth-picks, which serve admirably for 
the purpose. Run one through the two wings and body ; 
another through the two legs and body ; thus pinning them 
close to the sides. Have a pan with lard deeper than 
the height of the birds, so that they may be completely 
immersed in the fat. Bring it slowly to boiling point (see 
General Directions for Frying). When the lard is ready, 
lay the birds in with the skimmer. Do not put in more 
at a time than you can attend to well. They must be 
turned constantly, that they may cook and brown evenly. 
In about 8 minutes, if the heat is intense enough, the 
birds will be done. You can ascertain this by pressing the 
breast with the flat side of the fork ; if perfectly firm, the 
bird is cooked. Drain thoroughly and serve on toast, as 
directed for Roast Quail. The birds should not be darker 
than golden brown when well cooked. Garnish and serve 
with a salad. 

QUAILS EN COMPOTE (COLD). 

CAILLES EN GELEE. 

This is another excellent mode of preparing these popular 
birds ; a good dish for luncheon, to be served cold. 



214 GOOD-LIVING. 

6 quail, Broth, 

4 cloves, I bay-leaf, 

I clove of garlic, 8 allspice, 

yi lady-finger pepper without seeds, I sprig of thyme, 

Bunch of parsley and celery. Salt, and salt pork. 

Pluck, draw, and clean the birds, wiping with a wet cloth, 
not washing. Tie a piece of salt pork over the breast of 
each one, and truss it as described in Quail Saut£, using 
wooden tooth-picks. Lay the birds, breast upward, in a sauce- 
pan with all the seasonings ; cover with strong, well-flavored 
broth or consomme. Cover closely, and simmer very gently 
until the birds are very tender, but be careful not to let 
them go to pieces. This will take from 45 minutes to 1 
hour, according to the quality of the birds. When cooked, 
take them out carefully with the skimmer ; remove the pork; 
lay them in a deep bowl and cover the bowl with a plate. 
Boil down the broth until there is just about enough to cover 
the birds in the bowl. Strain it. Add salt and pepper, if 
necessary ; pour it over the birds and set away to get cold. 
If any broth remains, pour it into a shallow dish and set 
away to harden. When the jelly has hardened, take the 
birds out of the bowl separately with whatever jelly may 
cling to them. Dish them in a pyramid ; heap the jelly and 
that in the extra dish over them ; it should be crumbed with 
a fork, if quite firm. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and 
sliced lemon. Serve with a salad. This is really a most 
delicious dish, pleasing to both eye and palate, and so easy 
to make that it is strange it is not more often used to take 
the place of the conventional roast quail, whose only varia- 
tion is that it is sometimes well and sometimes ill-cooked. 

Partridges may also be prepared as above. 

SQUABS OR PIGEONS ROASTED. 

PIGEONS ROTIS. 

For this purpose, squabs are best. If you use full-grown 
pigeons, be careful to select only tender ones. 



SQUABS OR PIGEONS BROILED. 21 5 

Pluck, draw, and clean, wiping with a wet cloth, not wash- 
ing them. Truss neatly, using wooden tooth-picks to skewer 
the wings and legs in place : one passed through the two wings 
and body, another passed through the two legs and body. 
If the pigeons are too large for this, tie them in place. 
Fasten a slice of fat pork over each breast. Put a bit of 
butter the size of a hickory-nut in each bird. Some authori- 
ties recommend also to put in I or 2 cranberries. Lay 
the pigeons in a roasting-pan with I tablespoonful of butter 
and 2 of boiling water. The oven should be quite hot, but 
not scorching. Baste frequently, and roast for about 15 
minutes, according to size. Remove the fat pork and serve 
on toast moistened with the butter from the pan and a little 
strong broth. Pigeons, like all dark-fleshed game, should be 
served under-done. 

SQUABS OR PIGEONS BROILED. 

PIGEONS GRILLES. 

Pluck, draw, clean, and wipe inside and out with a wet 
cloth ; do not wash them ; split and spread open like broiled 
chicken. Have the gridiron heated very hot ; grease it ; lay 
the pigeon on the gridiron with the inner (or bone) side 
toward the coals. Broil, if possible, under the grate, and 
have the fire very clear ; nothing so destroys the sweetness 
of a good broil as the coal-gas which rises, often unavoidably, 
if the broiler is set over the fire. Rub the birds with melted 
butter. Set a pan below to catch it and the juices. Prepare 
a piece of toast for each bird : trim the crusts from the edges, 
and when the birds have broiled 10 minutes on the inner, 
and 5 on the outer side, moisten the toast with the butter in 
the pan ; add a little good broth ; place the squabs on the 
toast; sprinkle with salt and pepper; garnish with cresses 
and serve. If the fire is very intense, three minutes on the 
breast-side may suffice. You can ascertain when they are 
done by pressing the meat with the flat side of a fork ; if it 
is slightly elastic under pressure, it is sufficiently cooked. 



2l6 GOOD-LIVING. 

Never pierce game (or indeed any meat) with a fork to see 
if it is cooked ; pressing it, as described, will teach you 
very quickly to ascertain when it is sufficiently done. If it 
is to be cooked thoroughly all through, as in the case of 
white-fleshed game, the meat should feel quite firm under 
pressure ; to be underdone, as for dark-fleshed game, it 
should feel elastic, more or less so according to the degree 
of redness required. 

PIGEONS STEWED IN CONSOMME. 

COMPOTE DE PIGEONS. 

6 pigeons, Consomme or good broth, 

I sliced carrot, 6 slices of bacon or salt pork, 

I " onion, 3 cloves, 

Sprig of parsley, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 

]/ z tablespoon of vinegar. 

If )70u are not certain that your pigeons are tender, the 
following mode of cooking will insure their being good eat- 
ing. Pluck, draw, and clean, wiping inside and out with a 
wet cloth — not washing. Tie them neatly in shape with a 
slice of bacon or pork over the breast of each. Lay them, 
breast uppermost, in a saucepan in which you have put 2 or 
3 slices of bacon. Fry the vegetables in butter. When 
brown, not burnt, add them with the seasonings, salt, and 
pepper. Cover with stock, and set in one corner of the 
range where they will simmer very gently. Add stock, if it 
steams away. Let them simmer most gently until tender ; 
how long that may be will depend entirely upon the tough- 
ness of the pigeons — anywhere from 1 hour to 2 hours and 
30 minutes, or even more. Be careful that they do not go 
to pieces ; to this end watch them very carefully after I hour 
has elapsed. Place each pigeon upon a piece of toast trimmed 
around the edges. Put the vegetables around. Strain and 
boil down the gravy rapidly for a few minutes. Pour over 
the pigeons, and serve. Excellent. 



" FOUR-AND-TWENTY BLACKBIRDS BAKED IN A PIE.' 7 2 If 

AN ENGLISH PIGEON-PIE. 

1% pounds of rump steak, 3 pigeons, 

3 slices of ham, 2 ounces of butter, 

4 eggs, boiled hard, Pinch of powdered mace, 
Salt and pepper to taste, Puff paste. 

Pound the steak ; remove the skin and fibres, and cut it in 
pieces 3x3 inches. With these line the bottom of the pie- 
dish. Season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of mace. Clean 
and truss the pigeons ; rub them inside with salt and pepper, 
and put into the body of each ^ ounce of butter. Lay them 
on the steak. Lay a slice of ham on each pigeon. Add the 
yolks of eggs, and also the whites, sliced, if liked. Fill the 
dish with stock, which may be thickened with a Brown Roux 
(see receipt). Add a few balls of good force-meat, and also 
a few small dice of the paste. Edge the dish with a band 
of paste ; cover it with the same ; notch the edges together 
and trim them. Clean 3 of the pigeons' feet ; stick these, 
claws upward, in the middle of the top, to show what manner 
of pie it is. Set in a moderately-quick oven for about 1 
hour. Watch that it does not bake unevenly. Then draw 
it out ; brush the surface with the yolk of an egg beaten with 
a few drops of milk, and return to the oven for about 5 
minutes more, until nicely browned. Eat hot or cold — the 
latter is best. N. B. — Use Flaky Crust or Puff Paste for the 
above (see receipts). 

"FOUR-AND-TWENTY BLACKBIRDS BAKED IN A 
PIE." 

First make your crust, Plain Paste or Flaky Crust (see 
receipts), and set it away. Put into a saucepan and boil for 
30 minutes the following ingredients : 

I quart of broth, 2 onions, chopped, 

Bunch of parsley and celery leaves, Salt and pepper, 

j4 pound of ham, cut in pieces, 6 cloves and 10 allspice. 

When the sauce has boiled as directed, put in 24 black- 
birds, which have been previously cleaned. Simmer 20 



21 8 GOOD-LIVING. 

minutes or more, until tender. Be careful that they do not 
go to pieces. Put a border of paste on your pie-dish. Re- 
move the birds and place them in the dish. Slice 2 hard- 
boiled eggs into the dish, also half a lemon (rejecting the 
pips) ; add 1 gill of sherry. Strain off the broth, picking out 
the pieces of ham and some of the onion, parsley, and celery, 
which also put into the dish. Return the broth to the fire. 
Make a roux of 1 tablespoonful each of butter and flour, the 
latter heaping. Stir together over the fire until of a rich 
brown ; do not burn. Remove from the fire ; stir in the 
boiling broth by degrees, and blend until perfectly smooth. 
Strain the sauce and fill the pie-dish. If any is left, set it 
aside until the pie is baked. Now roll out the top crust 
rather more than half an inch thick ; lay an extra layer of 
paste on the edge of the dish ; moisten the edge ; put on 
the cover ; press the edges together ; notch and trim neatly. 
Cut an x in the middle of the crust ; place a twist of paper 
in the hole to keep it open. Bake the pie about 25 minutes 
in a quick oven. Bake on a separate tin a rose or leaf of 
paste with which to cover the hole in the pie. When it is 
nearly done, draw the pie out, brush the top with yolk of egg 
beaten with a little milk ; set it back in the oven, and bake 
about 5 minutes longer until nicely browned. Remove 
from the oven ; take out the paper and pour in the extra 
sauce through the hole. Put the fancy crust over the hole, 
and serve. It is better eaten cold. 

Veal and ham pie may be made in the same way, using \ 
veal to \ ham. 

BARBECUED HARE OR RABBIT. 

LAPIN OU LIEVRE R6TI. 

Skin the rabbit and chop off the feet. Leave the head 
on, skinning and cleaning it nicely. Empty it, and wipe the 
inside with a wet cloth, drying immediately. Skewer the 
fore- and hind-legs forward as if lying down. Lay it in a 
roasting-pan, with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 3 of boiling 



STEWED RABBIT OR HARE AU CHASSEUR. 219 

water. Be very generous with the butter. Add salt and 
pepper. Cover air-tight with an inverted roasting-pan, to 
keep in the steam. Set in a hot oven. In about 10 minutes, 
baste with the butter very thoroughly, and cover again. 
Repeat this process every 10 minutes until the hare has been 
in the oven about 30 minutes, then, if the flesh feels almost 
firm under pressure, leave off the top pan, baste again, and 
return to the oven until nicely browned. It will take from 
30 to 45 minutes in all, according to the size of the rabbit or 
hare. Do not let the surface brown too much or dry. Gar- 
nish with cresses ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; pour the 
pan-gravy over it, and serve with Maitre de Hotel Butter. 
Put a frill of cut paper over the bone of each leg. 

STEWED RABBIT OR HARE AU CHASSEUR. 

LAPIN OU LIEVRE AU CHASSEUR. 

1 rabbit or hare, 1 gill of sherry, 

1 pint of boiling water, I heaping tablespoon of flour, 

I onion, cut fine, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

6 cloves and 12 allspice, 1 bay-leaf, 

24 small white onions, I tablespoon of vinegar, 

Pepper and salt. 

Skin and clean the rabbit. Wipe with a damp cloth ; do 
not soak it in water. Leave the rabbit whole, or disjoint it, 
as preferred. The latter is recommended. Put one table- 
spoonful of butter into a large frying-pan. When the butter 
is melted, lay in the rabbit ; turn and brown on all sides, not 
too dark. Then put it into an iron pot which has been 
heating, meanwhile, on the side of the range. When the 
rabbit is all browned, put the onion into the pan and fry 
very brown, but do not burn. Add this to the pot. Now 
put into the frying-pan the rest of the butter with the flour, 
and stir until well browned, but not burned ; draw aside and 
add by degrees 1 pint of boiling water, stirring all the time. 
Pour this over the rabbit. Now add enough boiling water 
to half cover the rabbit. Add all the other seasonings ; 
close the lid tightly and set where it will simmer very gently 



220 GOOD-LIVING. 

for 45 minutes to I hour. This will suffice if the rabbit is 
young and tender ; if not, cook longer, watching that it does 
not go to pieces. Meanwhile peel the onions in water. Put 
them in a saucepan with salted boiling water and boil about 
I hour, perhaps less, if quite small. When you can pierce 
them very easily with a skewer, drain them. Now remove 
the rabbit from the pot ; arrange it neatly on a hot dish ; 
strain the gravy ; return it to the fire, and let it boil down 
briskly for a few minutes. Now arrange the onions all 
around the rabbit. There should be enough to make a con- 
tinuous row like large white beads. If the sauce is not 
quite thick enough by this time, add a pinch of corn-starch 
blended with a few drops of cold water ; stir it into the 
boiling gravy ; boil three minutes ; add the wine ; pour the 
sauce over the rabbit, not over the onions, and serve. 
Recommended. 

POTTED HARE OR RABBIT. 

LIEVRE OU LAPIN EN COMPOTE. 

Skin, clean, and joint the hare or rabbit, and prepare 
according to the receipt for Pigeons en Compote. 

SADDLE OF VENISON. 

SELLE DE CHEVREUIL. 

Should be roasted exactly the same as a Saddle of Mutton, 
allowing 9 or 10 minutes to the pound (see receipt). Saddle 
of venison should always be served very under-done. Put a 
frill of cut paper on the tail ; garnish tastefully and serve 
with currant jelly and a salad. The plates on which the 
venison is served should be very hot. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON NO. I. 

CUISSOT DE CHEVREUIL I. 

Roast exactly like a leg of mutton, covering with a second 
pan and basting frequently with melted butter. Allow about 



VENISON STEAK NO II. 221 

10 minutes to the pound in a hot oven. Venison should 
always be served juicy and under-done. Serve with a Jelly 
Sauce (see receipt), or with its own juices, currant jelly 
being handed at the same time. Put a frill of cut paper on 
the bone ; garnish and serve with a salad. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON NO. II. 

CUISSOT DE CHEVREUIL II. 

Make a large sheet of coarse paste — that is, mix together 
a little lard, flour, and enough cold water to make a paste ; 
roll the leg in this, covering every part, and put it in the 
roasting-pan in the oven. It requires no basting. Allow 
the same time, about 10 minutes to the pound. Before 
serving, break off the crust. Put a frill around the bone ; 
garnish and serve with Jelly Sauce (see receipt). 

BROILED VENISON STEAK NO. I. 

Cut slices from the leg and broil them over a quick, clear 
fire, turning constantly. Steaks I inch thick will not require 
more than 8 to io minutes, as they must be served very 
under-done. When done, butter both sides ; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper ; garnish and serve alone, or with Jelly 
Sauce. 

VENISON STEAK NO. II. 

Cut slices f of an inch thick from the leg. Cut these into 
even pieces about 3x3 inches. Prepare a Jelly Sauce (see 
receipt) in a saucepan on the side of the range. Have the 
fire very clear and hot. Heat the broiler. Lay the little 
steaks on it. Turn very often. In 8 minutes, or less, they 
will be sufficiently cooked. Drop them into the sauce ; let 
them stand well covered by the same for 5 or 10 minutes ; 
keep hot, but on no account let them cook. Serve on a 
very hot dish, in a circle, one overlapping the other. Pour 
the sauce over ; garnish, and serve. 



222 GOOD-LIVING. 

VENISON IN A CHAFING DISH. 

Cold sliced venison, Butter, the size of a walnut, 

2 gills of cooking-sherry or one of port, I gill of currant or grape jelly, 

]/z teaspoon of corn-starch, Pepper and salt. 

The meat should be very tender, underdone, and cut in 
thick slices. Or you can have a steak cut into pieces, 2x2 
inches, and slightly broiled, and add these to the sauce 2 
minutes before serving. Make the sauce as follows : Melt 
the butter in the chafing-dish ; add the jelly ; let it dissolve 
entirely ; then add the port wine and about i gill of boiling 
water, pepper and salt to taste. When it boils, stir in the 
corn-starch blended with a little cold water. Stir and boil 
i minute. Add the pieces of cold or broiled venison ; turn 
them in the sauce and heat for 2 minutes, then serve. The 
meat should be kept well covered with the sauce while heat- 
ing. This is an excellent old-fashioned dish for luncheon. 

VENISON STEW. 

RAGOUT DE CHEVREUIL. 

Follow the directions for Stewed Beef with Brown 
Gravy, cutting the venison in pieces ; add to the sauce 
when done a gill of wine, a good pinch of cayenne, and the 
juice of half a lemon. Before adding the wine remove the 
meat to a hot dish. Make some Dumplings (see receipts) ; 
drop them in small balls into the boiling sauce. Cover and 
boil briskly for io minutes. Dish the dumplings around the 
meat ; strain the sauce ; season as above ; pour it over the 
meat and serve. The above may be made with any rough 
bits of venison, or from the remnants of haunch or saddle 
already cooked, if under-done. Use claret or port wine in 
preference to sherry for the sauce. 

VENISON PASTY. 

Follow the directions for Four-and-Twenty Blackbird 
Pie, in all details, cutting the meat in pieces. Add dice of 



GAME PA T£ JELLIED. 223 

boiled pork, hard-boiled eggs, and wine. When baked, fill 
the pie through the top opening with gravy. It will require 
about 1 hour in a moderate oven. Finish and serve as 
directed. It is best eaten cold, 1 or 2 days after it is made. 
1 gill of port wine and a squeeze of lemon-juice added to 
the gravy will be found a further improvement, but is not 
indispensable. 

CIVET DE CHEVREUIL. 

Prepare as directed for Venison Stew, omitting the 
dumplings, and adding dice of salt pork. 

GAME PATE JELLIED. 

PATE DE GIBIER EN GELEE. 

I pair of partridges or rabbits, ]/ z pound sausage-meat, 

j^ pound salt pork, minced, Any livers of game or poultry, 

Grated bread-crumbs, Lemon-juice, 

Nutmeg, Pepper and salt, 

I gill of wine, Sliced salt pork, 

Garlic and spices, 3 eggs, 
I pint of stock. 

Having stewed the partridges or rabbits, the latter cut in 
pieces, save the breasts of the partridges removed in large 
pieces from the carcass ; pick off all the rest of the meat 
from the bones and chop it very fine by the Enterprise 
Chopper. Chop also the sausage-meat, salt pork, and any 
livers of game or poultry that you may have. A little piece 
of calf's liver, scalded until firm, may replace these last. 
Take \, or rather less, of the bulk of all these in stale bread- 
crumbs. Put the bones of the partridges, garlic, spices, 
stock, etc., to boil, and finish as directed for Chicken Pat£ 
Jellied (see receipt). 



MACARONI AND VARIOUS ENTREES NOT 
OTHERWISE CLASSIFIED. 

TIM BALE OF MACARONI. 

TIMBALE DE MACARONI. 

6 ounces of cold ham, chopped fine, 2 ounces boiled macaroni, 
1 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 tablespoon of good stock, 

1 " " mushroom catsup, 4 tablespoons of bread-crumbs, 

1 egg. 

Boil the macaroni in salted boiling water for about 25 min- 
utes, until tender. Drain. Cut it in pieces I inch long. Mix 
the bread-crumbs and ham well ; then add stock, seasonings 
and sauces. Mix ; add the egg well beaten. Grease a plain 
mould that has a cover. Line the mould with the macaroni ; 
fill with the mixture ; press closely. Put on the lid ; fasten 
it firmly. Stand the mould in a kettle of boiling water deep 
enough to f cover it. Cover the kettle. Boil 1 hour. When 
done, turn it from the mould, and serve with Bechamel Sauce 
or Stewed Mushrooms (see receipts). 

MACARONI A LA MILANAISE. 

yi pound macaroni, I can of tomatoes, 

2 cloves of garlic, Sprig each of thyme and parsley, 
]4 tablespoon of butter, Salt and cayenne, 

% pound cold ham, cut in dice, 1 scant tablespoon of flour, 

Grated Parmesan or other cheese. 

To make the sauce, put tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and 
parsley into a stewpan. Stew 1 hour ; then press pulp and 
juice through a sieve. Return to the fire. Rub together 
224 



BOILED MACARONI WITH CHEESE. 225 

butter and flour in a frying-pan over the fire until well 
browned but not burned ; remove from the fire and stir in 
enough of the boiling tomato-juice to blend it. Pour 
this into the stewpan of tomatoes ; stir until perfectly 
smooth ; add the ham, and boil about io minutes. Mean- 
while, boil the macaroni briskly in salted boiling water for 
about 20 minutes. When quite tender, drain it thoroughly ; 
add it to the sauce, and set the saucepan where it will stew 
gently, without actually boiling, for 20 minutes or more ; the 
macaroni must be thoroughly saturated with the sauce. It 
scorches easily, therefore watch it. Serve in a deep dish and 
hand at the same time grated cheese, Parmesan and Gruyere 
mixed. 

BOILED MACARONI. 

j£ pound of macaroni, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

Salt and pepper, 1 tablespoon of butter. 

Fill a 3-quart kettle with boiling water ; add salt. Hold 
the macaroni in a bunch over the kettle with the ends in the 
boiling water ; as they soften, introduce the macaroni by 
degrees into the boiling water. This is the correct way to 
preserve the length of the macaroni, not breaking it. Boil 
rapidly for 25 minutes ; when perfectly tender, drain it in the 
colander. Put in the kettle I pint of fresh boiling water, salt 
and pepper. Rub together flour and butter until smooth ; 
blend with the boiling water ; stir until perfectly smooth ; 
then add the macaroni to the sauce ; boil 3 minutes, and 
serve in a deep dish. Serve grated cheese separately. Or 
the macaroni may be broken into convenient lengths, if the 
above is too difficult. 

BOILED MACARONI WITH CHEESE. 

MACARONI A L'lTALIENNE. 

Fill a 3-quart kettle with boiling water ; add 3 teaspoons 
of salt. Boil the macaroni as directed in above receipt, or 
break it into convenient lengths. Boil the macaroni rapidly 



226 GOOD-LIVING. 

for 25 minutes. When perfectly tender, drain thoroughly in 
a colander. Serve in a hot dish. Serve at the same time 
plain melted butter in a sauce-boat ; also grated cheese ; 
mixed Parmesan and Gruyere being best. 

MA CARONI A U GRA TIN. 

Boil a \ pound of Macaroni (see receipt). When per- 
fectly tender, drain thoroughly. Let the cold water tap run 
on it for a minute or more and set aside again to drain. 
Bring about 1 pint of milk to a boil. Melt in it a tablespoon- 
ful of butter ; add pepper and salt. Beat up in a bowl 2 
eggs and 1 large tablespoonful each of grated Gruyere and 
Parmesan cheese. Now put the macaroni into a fire-proof 
bake-dish. Then pour the boiling milk by degrees upon the 
egg and cheese, stirring rapidly. Pour the milk, egg, and 
cheese over the macaroni. It should quite cover the latter; 
if not, add a little more plain, hot milk. Sprinkle grated 
cheese over the top, and set in a moderately-quick oven 20 
to 30 minutes. The top should be of a rich brown. 

VOL-A U-VENT BOURGEOIS. 

2 pairs of calves' brains, 6 sausages, 

ioo small oysters or 50 large, 1 qt. of White Sauce (see receipt), 

I gill of sherry, Celery-salt and cayenne, 

I level teaspoon of curry-powder, Salt. 

Parboil the brains ; cut them in square pieces. Fry the 
sausages until half cooked ; cut them in slices across. Scald 
the oysters in their own juice for 3 minutes. Now strain 
this juice and use it, in making the sauce, to blend the flour 
and butter, eking out the amount required with boiling 
water. Stir in the seasonings. Taste to see that the curry 
does not predominate, and that there is sufficient celery-salt 
and wine. If these seasonings are judiciously used, the com- 
bination is delicious. Line a deep pie-dish with Puff Paste 
or with Flaky Crust (see receipts), making the bottom crust 
thin and building up the edges with 2 or 3 extra layers. Fill 



CHICKEN AND OYSTER PIE. 227 

this with the oysters, brains, and sausages ; cover with the 
sauce. Roll the top crust \ of an inch thick ; cover the pie ; 
moisten the edges to keep them together ; notch and trim 
them neatly ; make a x cut in the centre. Bake in a mod- 
erately-quick oven 20 to 30 minutes, watching carefully that 
it does not scorch. Draw it to the mouth of the oven; 
brush over with yolk of egg beaten with milk ; return to the 
oven for 2 or 3 minutes until browned. Bake on a separate 
tin a piece of crust in some fancy shape, and place it over the 
x cut in the pie. Use, if possible, a dish that can stand 
inside of a fancy cover ; if not, fold a table-napkin neatly, 
diagonally, the width of the dish, and pin it around. This 
is a very simple dish, but delicious. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTER PIE. 

Cold boiled chicken, 1 qt. of White Sauce (see receipt), 

100 small oysters or 50 large, 1 grated onion, 

1 slice of cold ham, cut in dice, 1 gill of sherry, 

Pepper, celery-salt, Cayenne and salt. 

Cut the meat from the chicken in even, neat pieces. Scald 
the oysters in their own juice. Make a sauce according to 
receipt (White Sauce), using the strained oyster-juice to 
blend it, eking out the necessary quantity with boiling water. 
Add to the sauce the grated onion and seasonings (see 
Vol-au-vent Bourgeois). Make a Puff Paste or Flaky Crust ; 
line a deep pie-dish with a thin layer of paste, building up 
the edges with 2 or 3 extra layers. Fill the dish with the 
chicken, oysters, and ham. Pour the sauce over all. Cover 
with paste rolled f of an inch thick. Moisten the edges to 
keep them together ; notch and trim them neatly ; put an x 
cut in the centre. Bake on a separate tin a small piece of 
crust, cut in some fancy shape, wherewith to cover the hole in 
the pie. Bake the pie for about 30 minutes in a moderately- 
quick oven, watching that it browns evenly. Draw it to the 
mouth of the oven ; brush the top with egg-yolk and milk, 
and return to the oven for 2 or 3 minutes until browned. 
Use a dish that can be stood in a fancy cover ; if not, pin a 
folded napkin neatly around it. Serve hot. 



228 GOOD-LIVING. 

PHILADELPHIA CHICKEN AND SWEETBREAD 
CROQUETTES. 

I chicken, about 4 pounds, 1 small onion, 

1 bay-leaf, 1 pair of sweetbreads, 

4 whole cloves, 1 sprig of parsley, salt. 

Singe, draw, and clean the chicken. Put it into a pot with 
cloves, bay-leaf, onion, parsley, and enough cold water to 
cover. Put on the lid and simmer gently until very tender, 
I hour and 30 minutes or more, according to age. Having 
prepared the sweetbreads (see directions), trim off all fat, 
fibres and strings ; cut very fine with a silver knife. When 
the chicken is tender, remove skin and bones and return 
them to the soup-pot to simmer again. This liquor may be 
used for soup. Chop the meat very fine (with an Enterprise 
Chopper if you have it) ; mix with the sweetbreads, and to 
every pint of this meat allow : 

2 gills of milk or cream, 1 large tablespoon of butter, 

1 teaspoon of grated onion, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

I " " salt, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 

X " " grated nutmeg, Cayenne and pepper to taste. 

Put the milk to boil in a farina-kettle. Rub together the 
flour and butter to a smooth paste over the fire, but do not 
brown ; then stir into them the boiling milk. Stir until very 
thick. Remove from the fire ; add meat and seasonings, and 
mix well. Taste to see if the seasonings are good. Turn 
out on a flat dish to cool. When cold and firm, form into 
cone-shaped croquettes (there are moulds for the purpose) or 
cylindrical, 1 x 2\ inches. The latter are easier for a novice. 
Have at hand a plate of flour, a plate of raw eggs, and 
a bowl of sifted bread-crumbs. Flour your hands well ; 
take up a tablespoonful of the mixture, mould it into shape; 
roll it over in the egg, drop it into the bowl of crumbs ; cover 
every part with these. Correct the shape if necessary, and 
lay them on a flat dish. The air must reach all sides. Set 
away in the ice-box for at least 1 hour. Then fry in deep 
lard until golden brown. The lard should be deep enough 
to entirely cover the croquettes. Use a frying-basket (see 



BOUCHEES A LA REINE, ETC. 229 

General Directions for Frying). When golden brown, lay 
them on paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry, serve 
on a folded napkin or cut paper with fresh or Fried Parsley 
(see receipt). 

N. B. — The whole success of croquettes depends upon 
having the lard hot enough ; if it is not just right, they will 
be spoiled. Pieces of cold chicken or turkey may be used, 
and brains substituted for the sweetbreads. 

RISSOLES. 

3 gills of cold meat, cut in small dice, Parsley, chopped, 
1 gill of chopped pork or ham, Mushrooms, 

4 tablespoons of gravy or water, I egg, 

I level tablespoon of flour, 1 teaspoon of butter. 

Stir the flour and butter in a saucepan over the fire until 
blended ; then add the gravy, broth or boiling water ; stir 
smooth. Boil 2 minutes. Then stir in the meat and season- 
ings ; bring to boiling point ; remove from the fire, and stir 
in very briskly the egg which has been beaten until mixed. 
Do not let it cook again. Set away to cool. Make a thin 
sheet of Puff Paste or Flaky Crust (see receipts). Wet it 
for about 3 inches from the edge, and place upon \ the 
sheet little heaps of the prepared meat, about 4 inches 
apart. Double over the paste, covering the heaps. Press 
the side of the hand between each, pressing the paste to- 
gether close to the heaps. Then with a biscuit-cutter, or with 
a tumbler, cut out each heap in a circle or half-moon. Brush 
the top with egg ; bake in a quick oven, or fry in hot butter. 
The egg may be omitted from the force-meat. Serve in a 
pyramid on cut paper or a folded napkin, garnished with 
parsley. 

BOUCHEES A LA REINE, ETC. 

Heat shells of puff -paste thoroughly and fill with chicken 
(see Chicken en Caisses). Other bouchees may be filled with 
Devilled Scallops (see receipts), sweetbreads (see Sweet- 
breads en Casseroles, or Sweetbreads with Mushrooms) ; 
or with stewed oysters (see Stewed Oysters for Pat6s), etc. 



230 GOOD-LIVING. 

JELLIED MEAT LOAF. 

PAIN DE VIANDE EN GELEE. 

I quart of pieces of cold meat, Salt to taste. 

^ teaspoon of ground cloves, I cup of boiling veal stock, 

I " " allspice, y 2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 

^ " " mace, % " " black pepper. 

Use for the purpose some stock that will jelly. If you are 
not confident of what you have, either boil it down to at 
least double its strength, or else add to the boiling liquid I 
teaspoonful of gelatine dissolved in cold water. Mix well all 
the ingredients. Press the mixture into a mould that has 
been rinsed in cold water ; set away to cool and harden. 
Use some such combination as veal and ham, chicken and 
ham, or even bouilli, with I or 2 hard-boiled eggs. When 
hard, loosen the edges with a knife, turn out the form on 
a dish, and serve with salad. 

The various forms of these Meat Loaves cannot be too 
strongly recommended for savoriness and economy. They 
keep very well, and serve admirably for luncheon, or with 
salad for dinner (see various receipts). 

VOL-AU-VENT. 

Have the pastry-cook make the vol-au-vent crust ; it is 
such a troublesome piece of work that it cannot be recom- 
mended for home manufacture. Heat the empty shell very 
hot, and fill it with Sweetbreads with Mushrooms (see re- 
ceipt), to which add 2 gills or more of Quenelles (see receipt) ; 
or fill with the mixture for Sweetbreads en Casseroles (see 
receipt), to which add quenelles as above ; or fill with 
Chicken Saute with Mushrooms (see receipt), to which add 
wine, truffles, quenelles, and, if liked, cocks'-combs. These 
last may be had of any first-class grocer. Or the vol-au-vent 
may have the same filling as that used in receipt for Vol-au- 
vent .Bourgeois, or Chicken and Oyster Pie ; or, again, fill 
with Oysters Stewed a la Poulette, or Oysters for Pates 
(see receipts). 



STUFFED CABBAGE. 23 1 

SCALLOPED TO MA TOES WITH ME A T. 

1 cup of cold meat, chopped, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, 

1 large tablespoon of chopped parsley, Cayenne, 

% grated onion, Pepper and salt, 

Tomatoes, fresh or canned, Butter. 

Use cold mutton, lamb, veal, or chicken, in fact almost 
any meat. Mince the cold meat quite fine ; add to it an 
equal bulk of stale bread, the parsley, onion, pepper, salt, and 
a good pinch of cayenne. Line the sides of a bake-dish with 
peeled tomatoes cut in halves. Fill the dish with the meat ; 
lay over this a thick layer of tomatoes cut in thick slices or 
halves ; sprinkle with bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt ; dot the 
top with butter, and set in the oven for about 45 to 60 min- 
utes. If canned tomatoes are used, drain thoroughly. 



STUFFED CABBAGE. 

CHOUX FARCIS. 

For this, select a nice head of Savoy cabbage. Cover it 
with boiling water ; set aside 1 5 minutes, then drain. Scald 
again ; let stand 30 minutes, then drain dry. Make the stuf- 
fing as follows : 

2 heaping tablespoons of washed rice, j^ pound of sausage-meat, 

1 tablespoon of grated onion, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Mix all well together. Open the cabbage carefully to the 
very centre ; put in \ teaspoon of the mixture ; fold over this 
2 or 3 of the small leaves ; cover these again with a layer of the 
force-meat ; fold over this the next layer of leaves, and so on 
until each layer receives its share of force-meat. Press all firmly 
together; tie in a piece of cheese-cloth ; put it into a kettle of 
salted boiling water, and boil two hours. When done, care- 
fully remove the cloth, and serve the cabbage in a deep 
round dish with a Cream Sauce (see receipt) poured over it. 



232 GOOD-LIVTNG. 

STEWED RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE. 

CHOUX FARCIS A LA FLAMANDE. 

Prepare a red cabbage as directed (see Stuffed Cabbage) ; 
stuff it with a force-meat of mutton, veal, or sausage-meat 
(see Force-meat) ; cover £ with stock and red wine, and stew 
it for 3 or 4 hours until perfectly tender. It must simmer 
very gently. Dish the cabbage on a round dish ; set the 
sauce again on the fire and boil it down briskly for a few 
minutes, then stir in a little corn-starch blended with cold 
water ; boil 3 minutes, stirring constantly ; strain, and pour 
over the cabbage. 

N. B. — The cabbage must be kept covered air-tight while 
cooking. 

MEAT SAUSAGES FOR BREAKFAST. 

Cold meat, minced very fine, I egg, 

]^ bulk of meat in chopped pork, Pepper and salt, 

Powdered sage or sweet herbs, Lemon-juice. 

Mix all well together ; form into balls, and fry in hot butter 
and lard mixed. Serve with apple sauce or fried apples. 
You may add to the mixture £ or \ of the bulk of boiled rice 
or stale bread-crumbs. 

TO A D-IN- THE-HOLE. 

I pound of round steak or mutton, cold, i egg, beaten light, 

I pint of milk, I cup of flour, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Cut the meat in dice. Beat the milk into the egg ; stir 
these into the flour ; beat well ; add seasonings and meat ; put 
into a buttered baking-dish. Bake 1 hour. Serve in the same 
dish. 



FORCE-MEATS, GARNISHES, ETC. 

QUENELLES. 

I pound of lean veal from the leg, poultry, or game, 6 ounces of butter, 

1 pound of bread-crumbs, i ounce of butter, 

2 tablespoons of rich Cream Sauce, Pinch of salt and pepper, 

5 e gg s l ess 2 whites. 

Pound the veal ; scrape it with a knife ; pound it in a mortar ; 
then rub it through a sieve. Steep the inside of a loaf of 
bread for I or 2 minutes in tepid water, then squeeze it quite 
dry. Put the bread in a stewpan with I ounce of butter, and 
stir it over the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and 
forms a smooth, stiff paste. Add a pinch of salt. Remove 
it from the fire, and set it away to cool between 2 plates. 
When cold, put 12 ounces of the prepared veal, 6 ounces of 
fresh butter, and 8 ounces of the bread-panada into a mortar 
and pound well together ; break in, one by one, 3 whole eggs ; 
mix well ; add 2 more yolks of eggs and the Cream Sauce 
(see receipt). Season with pepper and salt and a pinch of 
mace to taste. When the force-meat has been pounded to a 
smooth, even paste, put it away in a bowl to cool, and it is 
ready for use. To cook it, have ready a saucepan of salted 
boiling water ; take up the meat between 2 tablespoons ; 
smooth it in good shape, and drop it into the boiling water. 
Test some first. If the quenelles are too soft, add more egg; 
if too hard, more bread-panada or sauce. These large ones 
may be served in a circle with a sauce of mushrooms or 
truffles ; or the force-meat may be poached in small almond- 
shaped pieces or balls and served in clear soup. Quenelles 
are also very useful as a garnish for Vol-au-Vents, etc. (see 
receipts). 

233 



234 GOOD-LIVING. 

SOYERS RECEIPT FOR QUENELLES. 

\y 2 pounds of fillet of veal, 4 eggs, 

6 ounces of panada, 1 pound of fresh beef suet, 

% teaspoon of pepper, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

Y% teaspoon grated nutmeg. 

Cut the veal into long, thin slices ; scrape with a knife until 
nothing remains but fibre ; put it into a mortar and pound 10 
minutes, or until it becomes of the consistency of a puree ; 
pass it through a wire sieve (the piece which is left can be 
put in the soup-pot). Skin, shred, and chop the suet very- 
fine ; put it into the mortar and pound it. Add the panada 
(that is, the crumb of bread soaked in milk and boiled until 
nearly dry) to the suet ; pound them well together. Add 
the veal. Add seasonings. Work all well together. Add 
then, 1 at a time, the 4 eggs, continually pounding the con- 
tents of the mortar. When well mixed, take a small piece in 
a spoon and poach it in salted boiling water ; if it is delicate, 
firm, and of a good flavor, it is ready for use. N. B. — If too 
soft, add another yolk of egg ; if too firm, add a little cream 
or stock. The flavor may be varied by making up the 
weight of veal by a small proportion of ham ; 1 or 2 mush- 
rooms may also be used. The essential point is to pound 
the mixture unsparingly ; the more it is pounded the finer 
and more delicate will be the quenelles. 

FISH QUENELLES. 

QUENELLES DE POISSON. 

% pound of bread-panada, Pepper, 

1 pound of flesh of any fine fish, , Salt, 

2 e gg s > X pound of butter. 

Rub the fish, freed from skin and bone, through a sieve. 
Prepare the bread-panada (see Quenelles). Mix with it the 
butter and fish ; season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of nut- 
meg or mace, and pound in the mortar. Mix in the eggs, 1 
at a time ; moisten with a little Fish-broth (see receipt), and 
pound all together until it becomes a smooth paste. Poach 



FORCE-MEATBALLSNO.il. 235 

as directed, using fish-stock instead of plain boiling water. 
Serve large quenelles as an entree, with Lobster or Shrimp 
Sauce (see receipts), or as a garnish. Test a piece of the force- 
meat in the boiling broth ; if too soft, add an egg ; if too 
firm, add a little more fish-stock and panada. 

EGG BALLS. 

6 hard-boiled eggs, Pinch of flour, 

2 yolks of raw eggs, Salt to taste. 

Pound the hard-boiled yolks of eggs until perfectly smooth 
in a mortar or bowl. Beat the raw yolks. Add them, with 
the flour and salt, to the cooked eggs. Mix all together and 
roll into balls the size of hickory-nuts. Have ready a sauce- 
pan of salted boiling water ; drop the balls into it and boil 
until firm, about 5 minutes. 

OYSTER FORCE-MEAT AND BALLS. 

I dozen oysters, 4 ounces of bread-crumbs, 

\% ounces of butter, y z saltspoon of mace, 

Cayenne and salt, Chopped parsley, 

I egg-yolk, Grated rind of half small lemon, 

I dessert-spoon of oyster-juice. 

Scald the oysters in their own juice ; cut in small pieces ; 
mix ; roll into balls ; fry in butter 7 to 10 minutes, or poach 
in water 5 to 6 minutes. 

FORCE-MEAT BALLS NO. I. 

A little finely-chopped veal, 1 yolk of egg, 

X the bulk in suet, Cracker or bread-crumbs. 

Lemon-juice, Pepper and salt. 

Mix well together. Roll in balls the size of a hickory-nut. 
Fry 2 or 3 minutes in hot butter, or boil in salted boiling 
water or stock until firm. 

FORCE-MEA T BALLS NO. II. 

Take any kind of cold meat or chicken and ham, chopped 
very fine ; season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, thyme, 



236 GOOD-LIVING. 

lemon-juice, a little grated peel, a bit of onion, chopped and 
fried. Break in I egg ; sprinkle with flour. Roll into balls 
the size of a hickory-nut, and fry in hot butter, or as above. 



GARNISHES FOR CLEAR SOUPS. 

Quenelles. 

Croutons, 

Force-meat balls. 

Poached eggs, 1 to each person. 

Lemon, 1 slice to each person. 

Yolks of hard-boiled eggs, I for each person. 

Noodles, French, German, or Swedish. 

Sausages, cut in thin slices and fried. 

Macaroni, Vermicelli, and Italian pastes. 

Arrow-root, corn-starch, sago, tapioca, rice. 

Mixed vegetables, sliced fine, and stewed in butter. 

For a light-bodied soup, a few spoonfuls of stewed tomatoes. 

CROUTONS NO. I. 

Slice some stale bread. Remove the crust. Cut in small dice. 
Heat some butter in a pan on the fire. When it is boiling, 
drop in the bread. Shake frequently till light golden-brown. 
The butter should nearly cover the bread. When done, in 
about 1 minute, remove with a skimmer to brown paper in 
the open mouth of the oven. When dry, serve on a cut 
paper at the same time with tomato soup or any other pur£e. 

CROUTONS NO. II. 

Proceed as above, using lard instead of butter. Let the 
lard entirely cover the toasts. They will not require more 
than 1 or 2 minutes. When pale-yellow, skim out, dry, and 
serve as above. These are much prettier in color than the 
croutons fried in butter. N. B. — The lard must be boiling. 
(See General Directions for Frying.) 



FRENCH NOODLES. 2$f 

FANCY CROUTONS. 

Cut stale bread into thin |-inch slices ; stamp out any 
shape, according to fancy — diamonds, rings, etc., etc. Fry 
these as directed for Croutons No. 2, and use as a garnish 
for minces, ragouts, stewed kidneys, sweetbreads, fish, etc., 
etc. To make a border of these croutons, dip one side of 
each in white-of-egg mixed with a pinch of flour, to make it 
adhere to the edge of the dish, and arrange them one next 
to the other, according to taste. These croutons for gar- 
nishing may also be cut in cubes i^- inches by 2\ inches long. 

FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS FOR GAME, ETC. 

Cut the bread into thin slices ; place these in a cool oven 
with the door open overnight, if you have time. When 
thoroughly dry and crisp, but not brown, roll them to a fine 
crumb. Bring some lard gradually to a boil in the frying- 
pan. When you are sure it is boiling (see General Directions 
for Frying), throw in the crumbs, and fry quickly till golden- 
brown. Do not let them darken or burn. When done, skim 
out on a sieve ; set in the open oven, and when dry, serve. 
Very nice to serve in small heaps around grouse or other 
game. 

FRENCH NOODLES. 

NOUILLES. 

I pint of flour, 6 yolks of eggs, 

Salt and pepper, 2 whites of eggs, 

Grated nutmeg, Chopped parsley. 

Mix all together with cold water enough to make a firm 
paste. Flour the board and roll very thin. Roll this paste 
up like a sheet of music. Now cut it in strips -§- of an inch 
wide. Flour these to prevent sticking together. Drop a 
few at a time into salted boiling water or boiling broth. 
Cook 30 minutes. Drain and add to the soup. 



238 GOOD-LIVING. 

GERMAN NOODLES. 

2 eggs, Flour for paste. 

Beat the eggs well and work in flour to make a firm paste ; 
knead well ; divide into two parts. Roll each out thin and 
leave it to dry for a little while without hardening. Roll it 
up and cut into small pieces the size of a large pea. Scatter 
them in boiling salted water. When done through, drain 
and throw into your boiling soup. Simmer for 15 minutes. 

SWEDISH NOODLES. 

Beat up 1 egg with a pinch of salt until it froths ; then 
work in as much sifted flour as it will take up (about 3 table- 
spoonfuls). Knead it until it becomes a firm, smooth, elastic 
paste. Then roll it out on a slightly floured board until as 
thin as writing-paper. When it is as thin as possible, slip 
under the sheet of paste a smooth, slightly- floured cloth. 
Cover the paste likewise. This enables you to roll it still 
thinner. Now cut the paste into rounds with a thimble or 
something equally small. The paste should be folded, so 
that 2 discs may be cut at a time. Have ready on the fire 
a saucepan of deep boiling lard. When you are certain that 
it is boiling, drop in the discs of paste. They will immedi- 
ately swell into golden balls, requiring not more than a 
minute to color. Skim them out ; drain on brown paper, 
and add to the soup. 

HAM FORCE-MEA T. 

1 pint of cold boiled ham, chopped fine, I pint of milk, 

}i li of stale bread-crumbs, Yolks of 3 eggs, 

1 heaping tablespoon of chopped parsley, % teaspoon of salt, 

1 teaspoon French (or English mixed) mustard, y& " cayenne. 

Bring the milk to a boil ; add the bread-crumbs, and stir 
until it thickens ; remove from the fire ; then add the yolks 
of eggs ; add all other ingredients. Mix well. Set aside to 
cool. 



MUSHROOM DRESSING. 239 

Use as stuffing for meats or poultry ; it is especially recom- 
mended for veal. Or, when cold and firm, form into balls ; 
roll in egg and bread-crumbs and fry like croquettes. A 
good relish, in this form, for breakfast. 

CHESTNUT DRESSING NO. I. 

1 pint of large chestnuts, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

1 teaspoon of salt, Pepper. 

Roast the chestnuts. When done, remove the shells and 
skins, and mash. Add the butter, pepper, and salt ; mix and 
fill the craws of 2 moderate-sized chickens. 

SAGE STUFFING FOR GEESE OR TAME DUCKS. 

1 pint of stale bread-crumbs, 2 tablespoons of melted butter, 

2 teaspoons of powdered sage, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 
1 teaspoon of salt, ^ teaspoon of black pepper, 

1 teaspoon of powdered sweet marjoram. 

Mix all together and moisten with the butter. It is then 
ready for use. 

POTATO DRESSING. 

2 cups of hot mashed potatoes, 4 tablespoons of cream, 

1 teaspoon of grated onion, or juice, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 

X " " black pepper, I " " butter, 

1 " " salt, Yolks of 2 eggs. 

Mix thoroughly. Use for tame ducks and geese. 

CHESTNUT DRESSING NO. II. 

Roasted chestnuts, sausage-meat and any cold meat, such 
as chicken or veal, chopped very fine. Season with pepper 
and salt and add butter. Use for chicken or turkey. 

MUSHROOM DRESSING. 

Mushrooms, calf's liver, pork, parsley, chives, butter, pep- 
per and salt, all minced together very fine and stirred over 
the fire for 5 minutes. 



24O GOOD-LIVING. 

BREAD-CRUMB DRESSING FOR ROASTED 
POULTRY. 

Dried bread-crumbs fried in butter, parsley chopped fine, 
grated onion, pepper, salt, the liver of the turkey chapped, a 
pinch of thyme. To this can be added a few small oysters 
browned in hot butter. Recommended. 

SWEET-POTATO DRESSING FOR TURKEY. 

A turkey may be stuffed with a Puree of Mashed Sweet 
Potatoes (see receipt). 

SAGE DRESSEVG FOR TURKEYS, FOWLS, GEESE, 
ETC. 

2 onions, chopped very fine, fried i^butter, 8 sage leaves, 

5 ounces bread-crumbs, soaked and squeezed dry, i ounce of butter, 

Minced salt pork (a little), I egg, 

Chopped celery, Salt and pepper. 

Mix thoroughly and it is ready for use. 

SWEET-HERB DRESSING FOR VEAL. 

Powdered thyme, summer savory, etc., 2 cups of bread-crumbs, 

l /2, grated lemon-rind, )/ z teaspoon made mustard, 

A squeeze of lemon-juice, Pepper and salt, 

^ cup chopped ham, I tablespoon chopped parsley. 

Mix thoroughly; it is now ready for use. 
OYSTER DRESSING FOR BOILED POULTRY. 

25 oysters, 1 teaspoon of sweet marjoram, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 " " salt, 

I " " butter, Pepper to taste, 

1 quart of stale bread-crumbs. 

This will make sufficient dressing for a large turkey or 
2 good-sized chickens. 

Drain the oysters and feel that no shell or grit remains in 
them. Melt the butter and then mix all the ingredients well 
together and use. Serve with oyster sauce. 



PASTRY CRO&TONS. 24 1 

SAUSAGE DRESSING FOR TURKEY-, 

The liver of the turkey, sausage-meat, parsley, chives, salt, 
pepper, and pork minced fine. Truffles are a great addition 
to this last. 

FRIED PARSLEY. 

Parsley, Lard or sweet drippings. 

Wash, pick, and thoroughly dry handsome, full sprigs of 
parsley. Bring the lard to a boil. Test it to be certain that 
it is ready (see General Directions for Frying). Lay the 
parsley in the frying-basket and plunge it for about I minute 
(perhaps less) into the lard, which should be deep enough to 
cover it. It should be crisped without blackening. Remove 
the basket ; drain, and set it before the fire or in the open oven 
for a few minutes to dry. This should always be served in a 
large bunch in the centre of a dish of croquettes, lobster 
chops, fried smelts ; indeed with any thing that is dipped 
and fried. In this way the same lard is used for the parsley 
when the other frying is finished, and is really no trouble. 

TO MIX ENGLISH MUSTARD. 

Mustard flour, Boiling water, 

Vinegar, Salt and sugar. 

Put the mustard in a cup ; pour upon it a few drops of 
boiling water and mix rapidly to a stiff paste. Add a few 
drops of vinegar to thin it ; a good pinch of sugar, and a 
little salt. This will be found to be a decided improvement 
on the usual method of mixing mustard. 

PASTRY CROUTONS. 

Roll out Puff Paste or Flaky Crust \ of an inch thick. 
Cut into diamonds about 3 inches long. Bake. Use as 
garnish for stewed sweetbreads, etc., etc. 



242 GOOD-LIVING. 

GLAZE. 

GLACE. 

Having cleared 2 quarts of Consomme (see receipt), set it 
in an uncovered stewpan over a brisk fire, and let it boil and 
evaporate until reduced to a sticky and stiff consistency ; stir 
constantly and be careful that it does not blacken, or it will 
become bitter. If wanted to keep on hand, take a larger 
quantity than the above, as it reduces very much, and when 
quite thick and stiff, put it into an earthenware jar which can 
be stood in hot water {bain-marie) when the glaze is required 
for use. Good for glazing hams, tongues, and other large 
pieces of meat. 

N. B. — In making consomme for glaze, omit turnips, which 
make it bitter. 




SAUCES. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

BROWN ROUX. 

ROUX BRUN. 
I tablespoon of flour, i tablespoon of butter. 

Melt the butter slowly ; sprinkle in the flour and stir it 
over the fire until every particle of the flour is uniformly 
browned. The fire must not be too hot after the first few 
moments. It will require about 25 minutes. Be very careful 
that it does not scorch, as this gives a bitter taste to the 
sauce. The butter must be very good, and there should be 
only just flour enough to absorb the butter. The above 
quantity is sufficient to thicken 2 gills of sauce or I pint of 
soup. The sauce to be thickened should be strong and well 
flavored with herbs, spices, etc., boiled down until very 
savory (such as Consomme), then strained ; while boiling, it 
should be stirred into the roux which you have drawn aside 
and allowed to cool slightly. Pour it in very gradually, stir- 
ring all the time. Then set the saucepan again where it will 
boil, and boil for 3 or 4 minutes longer, or until the sauce is 
very rich, smooth, and as thick as required. It is of the 
utmost importance to learn the proper mode for putting 
together the different elements of these Mother Sauces 
[Sauces Meres), as the French call the Espagnole, Veloute, 
Bechamel, and Allemande. They are the foundation of all 
the infinite variety of fancy sauces. Proper attention is not 
paid in our country to the importance of perfecting this 
243 



244 GOOD-LIVING. 

branch of cookery, which is of immense value in many ways, 
and pre-eminently; in the matter of domestic economy ; a 
good sauce often helping a very meagre and commonplace 
dish to pass for something quite elegant. 

Of course, it is often necessary to thicken a sauce quickly 
at the time of serving. In this case the proper thing to use 
is corn-starch, arrow-root, or potato-flour rubbed smooth with 
a few drops of cold water, and stirred into the sauce while 
boiling, stirring quickly all the time and boiling for about 3 
minutes, until transparent. In this case the allowance would 
be about 2 medium teaspoonfuls of corn-starch to the pint ; 
it is very easy to gauge the quantity required at the moment. 
The disadvantage of this latter system is, that after a certain 
amount of boiling, or in re-heating, the sauce becomes thin 
again and must be thickened anew. The proper way, there- 
fore, whenever circumstances allow, is to use the roux to 
thicken, and that, if possible, at the beginning of the prepara- 
tion of the sauce (see, for example, directions for Beef a la 
Mode, etc.) where a handsome sauce is required. A dark, 
rich, strong gravy or " jus " (see Brown Gravy) does not 
require thickening. Never under any circumstances allow 
yourself to be tempted to use burnt or browned flour for 
thickening sauces; it is a relic of barbarism, almost invariably 
practised by the commonplace Hibernian cook, and every 
good housekeeper should forbid the use of it. How many 
roast-beef and poultry gravies are rendered bitter and all the 
true flavor ruined by this wretched practice ! Study to 
make good sauces, and you will find yourself well repaid by 
the results. 

WHITE ROUX. 

ROUX BLANC. 

The same rule as for Brown Roux is to be followed for 
White Roux, excepting that, although the flour must be 
worked into the butter over the fire, it must not be allowed 
to color, unless it be very slightly for certain sauces, such 



BLENDING FOR SAUCES AND SOUPS. 245 

as the Velout6 or Blonde, which should be pale yellow. The 
White Roux is used for all white sauces, such as Bechamel, 
Cream, etc. The roux, be it White or Brown, may be 
made in larger quantities, and set away in glass or earthen- 
ware jars, where it will keep as much as 6 months in a cool 
place. It can be sprinkled into the boiling sauce, and stirred 
until thick, allowing about one heaping dessert-spoonful to I 
pint of sauce, and boiling about 3 minutes or longer until 
thick enough. Note. — All the sauces containing milk or 
cream should be mixed in a saucepan which is set over 
another in which is boiling water {bain-marie). Whenever a 
sauce of whatsoever kind it may be, is to be kept hot, set it 
also au bain-marie. 

COLORING FOR SA UCES OR SOUPS. 

If your soup or sauce is not of a satisfactory color, or if 
the flavor is harsh or unpleasing, chop up one onion, put 
it into a frying-pan with 1 tablespoonful of butter, and 
sprinkle over it about I saltspoonful of sugar. Stir together 
constantly, so that no one part may burn before all has 
attained a beautiful, clear, reddish brown. Add a few spoon- 
fuls of the sauce or soup you wish to improve ; stir well and 
pour into the body of the soup, which may continue to boil 
after this any time required. Strain before serving. 

BLENDING FOR SA UCES AND SOUPS. 

LIAISON. 
3 yolks of eggs, 8 tablespoons of cream. 

Beat the yolks of eggs in a bowl ; add the cream. Strain 
through a fine sieve. When the sauce ^or soup boils, put a few 
spoonfuls of it into the eggs and cream, stirring quickly ; add 
a little more by degrees ; when the liaison is quite smooth 
and warmed by the addition of the liquid, remove the sauce- 
pah from the fire and pour the eggs and cream carefully into 
the soup or sauce. It may be heated again, but do not let it 



246 GOOD-LIVING. 

boil after the liaison is added, or it will curdle. This is a 
great addition to all purees, whether soup or sauce. The 
above quantity will serve for 2 quarts of soup or I of sauce. 

BROWN SA UCE. 

SAUCE ESPAGNOLE. 

2 slices of lean ham, i pound of lean veal, 

6 gills of stock, 3 sprigs of parsley, 

Yz bay-leaf, 3 sprigs of sweet herbs, thyme, etc., 

6 chives or 1 onion, chopped, 3 shallots, 

2 whole cloves, 1 blade of mace, 

2 gills of sherry, Flour and butter. 

Cut the ham and veal into small dice. Put them into a 
stewpan with 2 gills of the stock and simmer gently until the 
bottom of the saucepan is covered with a nice glaze ; then 
add about one gill more of the stock and stir it around to 
detach the glaze from the bottom of the pan. Add the herbs, 
seasonings, onions, etc., and the' rest of the stock ; cover and 
simmer gently for two hours. Strain and skim off all fat. 
When ready to use, thicken it with a Brown Roux (see receipt), 
allowing about 1 tablespoonful of the roux to 1 pint of the 
gravy. Remove the roux from the fire. Add the gravy to 
it when the former is boiling ; stir and blend perfectly 
smooth, boiling for about 2 minutes. Add lastly the wine, 
and a little cayenne if necessary. 

BROWN GRAVY. 

JUS. 

2 pounds shin of beef, ^ pound of lean ham, 

1 onion, 2 pints of water, 

Salt and black pepper-corns to taste, 1 blade of mace, 

Bunch of sweet herbs, ^ large carrot. 

l /z head of celery. 

Cut the beef and ham in small pieces. Slice the vegetables. 
Take a jar large enough to hold all the ingredients, including 
water. Arrange in layers the ham, beef, vegetables, and 



BECHAMEL SAUCE. 247 

seasonings alternately ; pour the water over the whole. Set 
the cover on the jar and tie it so that the steam may not 
escape. Place it in a very moderate oven and let it bake 
from 6 to 8 hours. Should the oven be hot, less time will be 
required, say about 5 hours. Strain off the gravy, and when 
cold, skim off the grease. It may be flavored with wine, if 
necessary, but need not be thickened unless particularly 
desired ; in which case, use very little corn-starch blended 
with cold water, and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Recommended. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

SAUCE A LA CREME. 

1 tablespoon of flour, 2 gills of new milk, 

1 very large tablespoon of butter, y^ teaspoon of salt, 

Pepper to taste. 

Put I of the butter in a saucepan over the fire. As soon as 
it melts, add the flour ; stir till blended. Be careful not to 
let it brown. Add the boiling milk, by degrees, to the flour 
and butter, stirring without ceasing. Boil 3 minutes. 
Remove from the fire ; add salt, white pepper, and the rest 
of the butter ; stir until the butter melts, and serve imme- 
diately. If it has to be kept, set it over a kettle of boiling 
water {bain-marie) ; leave the spoon in it, and every now and 
again stir it down or the top will form a scum. Do not let it 
boil after the last butter is added. Cream may be used 
instead of new milk. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

SAUCE BECHAMEL. 

}( onion, chopped, 2 ounces of raw ham, 

Butter, Stick of celery, cut fine, 

2 fresh mushrooms, % carrot, cut fine, 

Bunch of sweet herbs, 2 cloves, 

1 pint of Veloute Sauce, 4 allspice, 

2 gills of rich cream, }4. blade of mace. 

Stew the onion very gently in about 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, until very tender, but not at all brown ; add the ham, 



248 GOOD-LIVING. 

vegetables, herbs, and spices, and stew gently for 10 minutes, 
without browning. Then pour off any butter that may not 
have been absorbed. Add the Veloute (see receipt) ; stir 
it in, and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 or 10 minutes, stirring 
constantly. Then add by degrees, a very little at a time, the 
cream, which should be rich, sweet, and not heated. When all 
the cream is well blended with the sauce, the latter should be 
velvet-smooth, rich, and delicious. Strain, and serve as soon 
as possible. Use for the preparation of this, and all kindred 
sauces, a saucepan, set over another of boiling water {bain- 
marie). Serve with fish, chicken, sweetbreads, etc. The 
above receipt is taken from a good French authority, that of 
Urbain-Dubois. A simpler adaptation of the above is to use 
a good, smooth Cream Sauce (see receipt) in place of the 
velout£, which may not always be attainable. 

SA UCE ALLEMANDE. 

Make exactly the same as Veloute (see receipt), boiling it 
down both before and after thickening until strong and well 
flavored. Beat the yolks of eggs in a bowl, allowing one 
more than for the veloute ; mix them with a little grated 
nutmeg and a lump of butter the size of a hickory-nut. 
When the sauce is boiling, stir it very gradually into the eggs ; 
then replace it over boiling water on the fire, and stir it 
rapidly for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Be careful 
not to let it curdle. 

POULETTE SAUCE. 

SAUCE POULETTE. 

Cream Sauce, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 

2 eggs, 1 " " " chives, 

White pepper, Salt. 

Make a Cream Sauce (see receipt). To this add the pars- 
ley and chives, or substitute for the latter £ an onion, grated. 
When it is boiling, stir it briskly into the eggs, which are 
ready, beaten, in a bowl. Return to the side of the fire, and 



PICKLE SAUCE. 249 

stir for 1 or 2 minutes, being very careful not to boil, or the 
eggs will curdle. Serve immediately. If this sauce has to 
be kept standing, do not add the eggs until the last moment 
before serving. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

SAUCE AU CELERL 

Cut the celery in i-inch lengths ; put it in a saucepan ; 
cover with boiling water. Boil about 30 minutes, until ten- 
der. Make a White Roux (see receipt). Strain out the 
celery; blend the water in which the celery was boiled with 
the roux. Set it over the fire and stir until perfectly smooth 
and thick ; add salt, pepper, and the celery ; set it over boil- 
ing water and let it stew gently until the celery begins to go 
to pieces. Or, make a Cream Sauce (see receipt), and when 
the celery is boiled tender, drain and stew it, as described, in 
the cream sauce. Serve with boiled turkey, chicken, etc. 

SA UCE DIABLE. 

White Sauce, Sherry, 

Celery-salt, Cayenne, 

Curry-powder. 

Blend about \ teaspoonful of the curry with a little of the 
White Sauce (see receipt), then stir it into the rest. Add 
the other ingredients, about I gill of wine, and 1 saltspoon 
of celery-salt, and a pinch of cayenne ; taste, and be very 
careful not to allow any one flavor to predominate, except 
that the cayenne should be perceptible. This is a delicious 
sauce, but its success depends much upon the judicious ad- 
mixture of the various seasonings, as the strength of curry- 
powder and celery-salt vary too much to enable one to fix 
the exact quantities. Use for shell-fish, chicken, sweet- 
breads, etc. 

PICKLE SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX CORNICHONS. 

To the receipt for White Sauce, add chopped gherkins or 
other vinegar (not mustard) pickles before serving. 



250 GOOD-LIVING. 

WHITE SA UCE. 

SAUCE BLANCHE. 

3 ounces of butter, i ounce of flour, 

2 gills of water, Pepper and salt. 

Put 2 ounces of the butter in a stewpan ; when it melts, 
add the flour. Stir for I minute or more, but do not brown. 
Then add by degrees the boiling water, stirring until smooth, 
and boiling about 2 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, pass 
it through a sieve ; then add the rest of the butter, cut in 
pieces. When the butter is melted, serve immediately. 
This makes about I pint of sauce. You may add as a great 
improvement a little lemon-juice or a few drops of vinegar. 
N. B. — If the sauce is to have other ingredients added, it is 
best to have it very thick to begin with. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX CAPRES. 

To the receipt for White Sauce, add three teaspoonfuls of 
French capers just before serving. Serve with boiled mutton. 

HARD-EGG SAUCE. 

To the receipt for White Sauce, add hard-boiled eggs 
chopped not too fine, and a little finely-chopped parsley. 
Serve with boiled fish or fowl. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE. 

SAUCE AU BEURRE D'ANCHOIS. 

To the receipt for White Sauce, add anchovy paste to 
taste. Serve with boiled fish. 

LOBSTER SAUCE. 

SAUCE HOMARD. 

To I pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt), add the meat of 
tail and claws chopped not too fine, a little of the coral 



SAUCE VELOUTE. 2%\ 

rubbed smooth for coloring, salt, pepper, and cayenne. If 
possible, use I gill of cream and I gill of boiling water or 
stock in blending this sauce, as it will make it much richer 
and smoother. If you have no cream, rub up the coral with 
I tablespoonful of butter, adding it just before serving. 

PARSLEY CREAM SAUCE. 

To the receipt for White or for Cream Sauce add I heap- 
ing tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX CHOUXFLEURS. 

Use either White or Cream Sauce (see receipts), adding to 
it the flowerets of cauliflower previously boiled tender. 
Serve with boiled fowl, veal saute, etc., etc. 

OYSTER SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX HUITRES. 

To the receipt for Cream Sauce, add oysters. In this case 
use the strained juice of the oysters to blend the flour and 
butter, adding cream or rich milk to make up the quantity 
required. It must be boiling when added to the butter 
and flour. The oysters must be scalded in their own juice 
until almost firm, then added to the sauce 5 minutes before 
it is to be served. Season with celery-salt, white pepper, 
and cayenne. 

SAUCE VELOUTE. 

Proceed as for White Sauce (see receipt), using stock in- 
stead of water to blend the butter and flour, which last 
should be pale yellow. When it is cooked, remove it from 
the fire and stir it into the well-beaten yolks of 2 or 3 eggs. 
If you are by any misfortune obliged to keep it hot after 
the eggs are added, set it over hot water, and do not boil 



252 GOOD-LIVING. 

again, or it will curdle. Add salt, pepper, and a little 
lemon-juice and chopped parsley. A little grated onion 
may be added at the same time as the broth. In this case 
it is safer to strain the sauce before serving, to avoid the 
possibility of any onion remaining in it. N. B. — The best 
stock for this sauce is one made of chicken or veal and a 
little ham ; it should be highly flavored and not too dark- 
colored. The sauce, when ready to serve, should be light 
yellow. 

MAITRE U HOTEL BUTTER. 

BEURRE MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

Mix together, cold, i tablespoonful each of butter and 
very finely-chopped parsley, and I teaspoonful of lemon- 
juice ; pepper and salt. The parsley should be as fine as 
powder. Work all well together. Use for broiled steaks, 
fish, etc., spreading the top generously with it, setting in 
the mouth of the oven 2 or 3 minutes until melted. 

MAITRE U HOTEL SAUCE. 

SAUCE MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

Same as above, melted over a pan of boiling water, and 
served in a sauce-boat. Use with boiled fish, etc. 

SA UCE BEARNAISE. 

6 shallots, or bunch of chives, ^ gill of vinegar. 

Chop the shallots, chives (or small bit of garlic) ; put it, 
with the vinegar, in a china-lined saucepan on one corner 
of the range, and let it simmer until reduced about £, then 
strain it and set aside. 

6 yolks of eggs, Lemon-juice, if necessary, 

% pound of butter, Glaze, 

Pepper, Grated nutmeg. 

Boil down some good consomme 1 to a glaze, if you have 
none already prepared. Break the yolks of eggs into a 



TERRAPIN SAUCE. 253 

saucepan which will stand in one of boiling water {bain- 
marie). Add the butter, pepper, and a pinch of grated nut- 
meg. Place the saucepan of eggs in the saucepan of boiling 
water, and stir without ceasing until the eggs begin to 
thicken. Do not allow the eggs to come to boiling point, 
or they will curdle. When beginning to thicken, add an 
equal bulk of the glaze described, a very little at a time, and 
stirring constantly. When as thick as very rich custard, add 
the vinegar as described above. If not acid enough, add a 
squeeze of lemon-juice and a pinch of salt, but very care- 
fully. If the sauce curdles, or is too thick, add a few drops 
of cold water and stir. Serve immediately with fish, lobster, 
chops, and grills of all sorts. Beefsteak broiled and served 
with this sauce is the famous dish at the historic Restaurant 
Henri IV. at St. Germain. 



TERRAPIN SA UCE. 

6 yolks of eggs, boiled very hard, I gill of cream, 

X pound of butter, Salt and pepper, 

I gill of sherry Cayenne. 

Rub the yolks of eggs to a powder ; add the cream (or an 
equal quantity of Cream Sauce) and seasonings, stirring over 
the fire for 2 or 3 minutes until thoroughly hot, but do not 
boil. Remove from the fire and add the wine. Add what- 
ever meat or fish you wish to use with the sauce. Stand it 
over boiling water {bain-marie) until heated through, and 
serve. This sauce is excellent with : 

Terrapin, Beefsteak, 

Veal, Lobster, 

Boiled calf's liver, cut in dice, Kidney, 

Cold chicken, cut in dice, etc., etc. 

It improves very much if prepared in the morning, and 
set away with the meat in it, ready to be served. Half an 
hour before it is required, stand the dish over boiling water. 
Be sure the sauce and meat become thoroughly heated 
through. Serve in a casserole. 



254 GOOD-LIVING. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR FILET OF BEEF. 

SAUCE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

2 gills of stock, Lemon-juice, 

I can of mushrooms, I tablespoon of butter, 

^ the juice of a can of mushrooms, Pepper and salt, 

i heaping tablespoon of flour. 

Skim the stock, and put it and the mushroom-juice in a 
saucepan on the fire. Now put the butter and flour in a fry- 
ing-pan, and stir together over the fire until well browned 
(roux) ; remove from the fire, and stir in the boiling stock ; 
add the mushrooms, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt, and 
pepper ; stew for five minutes, until the mushrooms are well 
heated through. Pour part of this sauce over the filet. 
Serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 

MADEIRA SAUCE. 

SAUCE MADERE. 

2 gills of Espagnole or Brown Sauce, I gill of truffles, cut in pieces, 

I gill of sherry, I " mushrooms," " " 

2 gills Tomato Sauce. 

Boil together the Tomato and Espagnole (see receipts) 
for 5 minutes. Add salt, pepper if required, the mushrooms, 
and truffles ; when heated, stir in the wine, and serve. This 
sauce should be prepared over boiling water {bain-marie). 
Serve with filet of beef, etc. 

SA UCE A U BEURRE NOIR. 

X pound of butter, I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 

Salt and pepper to taste, 3 tablespoons of vinegar. 

Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it smokes, and 
begins to brown, add the vinegar and seasonings. Let all 
simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, until of a good dark color ; add 
the parsley, and serve. Use with calves' brains, lobster, 
eggs, etc. 



TOMATO SAUCE. 2$$ 

PLAIN MELTED BUTTER. 

Put a large piece of best butter into a bowl. Stand this 
in boiling water until the butter rnelts ; pour it off through 
a fine sieve, leaving in the bowl any sediment there may be. 
Beat into it a pinch of salt, and serve in a hot sauce-boat. 
This is called by some authorities the real Sauce Hollandaise ; 
but on this point opinions differ. 

SA UCE HOLLANDAISE. 

3 teaspoons of vinegar, Lemon-juice, 

4 yolks of eggs, 3 small black pepper-corns, 
Salt and pinch of grated nutmeg, 5 ounces of butter, 

I teaspoon of Veloute. 

Boil the vinegar with the pepper-corns until reduced one 
half. Strain and set aside to cool. Mix in a saucepan one 
half of the butter cut into small pieces, the yolks of eggs, a 
little salt, pinch of grated nutmeg, and the vinegar. Set the 
saucepan over boiling water, and stir unceasingly with a 
wooden spoon until it is perfectly smooth. Strain it into 
another saucepan, and set it back over boiling water as 
before, beating it steadily. Add, by degrees, the remainder 
of the butter, divided in bits, and the Veloute (which may be 
replaced by the same quantity of good White Sauce, see re- 
ceipt). When the sauce is very light aud frothy, remove 
from the fire, squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and serve 
immediately with fish, etc. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

SAUCE TOMATE. 

6 large tomatoes, or I can, 2 chopped onions, 

Butter, size of an egg, Salt and pepper, 

Bunch of parsley and thyme, Pinch of sugar, 

I tablespoon of butter, 2 tablespoons of flour. 

Peel the tomatoes, and put into a saucepan with butter, 
thyme, onions, and parsley (and I clove of garlic chopped 
and fried in butter). Set over boiling water, and stew very 



256 GOOD-LIVING. 

gently for 3 hours. Then press fruit and juice all through 
a sieve, rejecting only the seeds and herbs. Meanwhile, 
prepare a roux, allowing to I quart of sauce I tablespoonful 
of butter and 2 of flour, stirred together over the fire until 
light golden-brown — no darker, or the color of the sauce will 
be injured. When the sauce is strained, remove the roux 
from the fire ; stir in the sauce. Return it to the fire. 
Stir and boil 3 to 5 minutes, until rich and thick. Should 
the sauce be already quite thick with the pulp of the toma- 
toes, use less thickening. If served with fricandeau, veal 
saute, or filet of beef, add the juices of the meat to the 
sauce. 

TOM A TO SA UCE WITH WINE. 

Add to the above receipt, sherry to taste. Excellent. 

PARSLEY SAUCE. 

SAUCE PERSIL. 

Parsley, chopped fine, Bread-crumbs, 

Salt and pepper and broth, Vinegar. 

Rub together equal quantities of parsley and bread- 
crumbs ; moisten with broth ; add seasoning, and stir over 
the fire until smooth and thoroughly hot, but do not boil. 
Serve. 

SPANISH RED-PEPPER SA UCE. 

SALSA PIMIENTO DULCE. 

2 sweet red-peppers, 1 clove of garlic, 

1 gill of sweet oil, Salt and vinegar. 

Put the peppers into boiling water until tender. Be care- 
ful that all the seeds are removed. Rub them to a paste 
with the garlic. Moisten with a little water. Heat the oil 
in a frying-pan, and when hot, stir in the pepper. Add 
seasonings. This is a good sauce in which to warm fish, 



SAUCE SOUBISE. 2$f 

from which the bones have been removed, or with beefsteak, 
chops, etc. 

N. B. — The Spanish sweet peppers are put up in tins ; 
obtainable from the best grocers and importers. 

SAUCE ROBERT. 

2 ounces of butter, 3 onions, sliced fine, 

4 tablespoons of good stock, 1 teaspoon of made mustard, 

Juice of half a lemon, 1 " " vinegar, 

Salt and pepper to taste, I " " flour. 

Melt the butter in a saucepan ; when the butter is melted, 
fry the onions brown, being careful not to burn them. Add 
the flour ; shake the onions in it, and fry again for a few 
minutes. Then carefully stir in the stock and seasonings, 
and boil gently for 10 minutes. Skim. Add the mustard, 
vinegar, and lemon-juice. Boil up once, and serve with 
steak, pork chops, liver, goose, turkey, etc., etc. 

SAUCE POIVRADE. 

1 onion, minced, Butter, 

1 gill of vinegar, 1 pint of gravy or stock, 

Bunch of parsley, 3 cloves, 

Pepper and salt, Butter and flour. 

Fry the onions in butter until yellow ; add the vinegar ; 
boil away \, leaving f. To this add the gravy or stock, 
parsley, cloves, pepper, and salt. Boil 1 minute. Add about 
1 heaping teaspoonful of flour rubbed up with \ a teaspoon- 
ful of butter. Stir it into the sauce and boil for 10 minutes. 
Strain, skim ; serve with all kinds of broiled or saut6d meats. 

SAUCE SOUBISE. 

4 large white onions, cut in quarters, Cream Sauce, 

Butter and pinch of sugar, Salt and pepper. 

Put the onions in boiling water and boil about 20 minutes 
or more until quite tender. Drain thoroughly. Put them in 
a saucepan with 1 large teaspoonful of butter, and let the 



258 GOOD-LIVING. 

onions stew until slightly yellow : then add a pinch of salt, I 
of sugar and a little white pepper. When the onions are 
quite tender, mash them through a coarse sieve ; add an 
equal bulk of rich Cream Sauce (see receipt), and serve 
immediately with filet of beef, fricandeau, beefsteak, etc. 
The juices of these meats should be stirred into the Soubise, 
which should be as thick as very rich cream. 

SHAD-ROE SAUCE. 

Wash 2 shad-roes in cold water. Put them in a saucepan 
with 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover with boiling water. Put the 
lid on and simmer 1 5 minutes. Drain ; skin ; mash fine. 
Make a White Sauce (see receipt) ; add the roes to it ; mix 
well; add a squeeze of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, cayenne and salt ; bring to a boil and serve 
with baked or boiled shad. 

RAVIGOTE SAUCE. 

SAUCE RAVIGOTE. 

1 teaspoon of mushroom catsup, Butter, size of an egg, 

1 " " Chili vinegar, i tablespoon chopped parsley, 

1 " " Reading sauce, 3 tablespoons of cream, 

1 sprig of tarragon, 3 " thick White Sauce, 
Salt and pepper to taste, yi tablespoon chopped chervil. 

Scald the parsley ; dry and chop very fine. Have ready 
the White Sauce (see receipt) ; add all the other ingredients ; 
mix and serve hot. Heat the sauce over boiling water 
(bain-marie). 

VINAIGRETTE. 

5 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 teaspoon of French mustard, 

2 " " vinegar, 1 " " chervil, chopped, 
Pepper and salt to taste, 1 " " chives, ' ' 

1 teaspoon of capers, 1 " " parsley, 

1 teaspoon of chopped pickles. 

Mix together cold and use- with cold bouilli, sliced hard- 
boiled eggs, etc., etc. A few pieces of anchovy, shredded, 
may also be added. 



CHESTNUT SAUCE. 259 

REMOULADE SAUCE (COLD). 

SAUCE REMOULADE. 

3 hard-boiled eggs, % teaspoon of made mustard, 

1 raw yolk of egg, Salt and cayenne to taste, 

1 tablespoon of tarragon vinegar, 3 tablespoons of olive- oil. 

Boil the eggs as directed (see receipt). When cold, 
remove the shells ; set aside the whites to use, crumbed, as 
a garnish. Put the yolks in a mortar, or bowl, and mash 
perfectly smooth. Add to them mustard, seasonings, ^ of 
the vinegar, and mix thoroughly. Now add, drop by drop, 
the oil, turning all the time, then the yolk of the raw egg, 
and when this is thoroughly worked in, add the rest of the 
vinegar. The sauce is now ready to be used with cold meat, 
fish, or salad. Mix the sauce very carefully to prevent 
curdling, and always stir one way. The quantities of oil and 
vinegar may be slightly increased according to taste. 

GREEN REMOULADE. 

REMOULADE VERTE. 

Is made the same as above, being colored with spinach or 
parsley-juice. 

CHESTNUT SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX MARRONS. 

1 pint of large roasted chestnuts, 1 pint of boiling stock, 

1 tablespoon of flour, Salt and pepper, 

1 large tablespoon of butter. 

When the nuts are roasted, peel, and mash fine. Brown 
together the flour and butter (see roux) ; remove from the 
fire ; add the stock and nuts. Stir. Return to the fire. 
Stir and boil 2 minutes. Season. Serve with broiled din- 
donneau (turkey-chick), roast turkey, fricandeau, etc 



26b GOOD-LIVING. 

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE. 

SAUCE AU RAIFORT. 



3 eggs, 


I cup of cream, 


Pinch of flour, 


Salt, 


Grated horse-radish, 


Broth. 



Cover the horse-radish with broth. Let it boil a few 
minutes until tender. Rub up the eggs in a bowl with 
cream and salt. When the horse-radish is tender, add it 
gradually, while boiling, to the eggs and cream, stirring con- 
stantly. Stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes to heat and 
thicken, but do not boil, or the eggs will curdle. Serve with 
roast meat or with fish. 

MINT SA UCE. 

1 bunch of mint (a good handful), Pepper, 

1 large tablespoon of sugar, }4. teaspoon of salt, 

4 tablespoons of vinegar, 4 tablespoons of boiling water. 

Remove the leaves and tips from the coarser parts of the 
stalks ; chop all the best part as fine as powder. Put it in a 
bowl, and pour over it the boiling water, adding the sugar. 
Cover closely and set aside until cool, about 15 minutes. 
Then add the vinegar, pepper, and salt. Serve very cold 
with roast lamb. The sauce should be thick with the 
chopped mint : it is usually the reverse, vinegar and water. 

SAUCE BLONDE. 

I tablespoon of butter, ^ pint of good stock, 

1 " " flour, Salt and pepper. 

Rub together the flour and butter over the fire until pale 
yellow, but be careful not to brown it ; add the boiling stock 
by degrees, stirring constantly. Boil 3 minutes. Season 
with lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and serve. If for chicken 
fricassee, boiled mutton, boiled turkey, etc., use the liquor in 
which the meat or chicken has cooked, to blend the sauce. 



TART ARE SAUCE. 26 1 

MA YONNAISE SA UCE. 

SAUCE MAYONNAISE. 

Yolk of 1 egg (in summer 2 yolks), Pepper and salt, 

2 gills of olive oil (perhaps more), Vinegar. 

In the list of ingredients for the sauce should be included 
a large stock of patience, as, without it, there can be no May- 
onnaise ! It is one of the essentials, also, to the success of the 
same, to have both the egg and oil cold, therefore place them 
in the ice-box some time before they will be required. In 
summer, the soup-plate in which you make the dressing 
should be stood upon cracked ice in a pan. Having every- 
thing ready at hand, break the eggs, carefully separating 
whites and yolks. Put the yolks into a soup-plate ; pick out 
the germs, which you reject. Add a dash of white pepper 
and about \ a saltspoon of salt to the egg, and work it around 
just enough to thoroughly mix ; then begin with the oil, 
adding it, literally, drop by drop, stirring with a steady, not 
too rapid motion, and always in the same direction. Work 
in the oil in this way, until you have used about 2 gills. A 
practised hand will manage to make the egg hold more oil, 
by adding, whenever there is the slightest symptom of 
" cracking," a few drops of vinegar, mixing steadily for some 
time, and then beginning again with the oil. The juice of a 
lemon may be used for the necessary amount of acidity, after 
the dressing is made as above, but it whitens the sauce. 
Serve very cold with salads, etc. 

TART ARE SAUCE. 

SAUCE TARTARE. 

2 gills of Mustard Dressing, Yolk of 1 egg may be added if desired, 

Tabasco or cayenne, 1 teaspoon chopped chives or % of a 

1 teaspoon chopped parsley, small onion, grated very fine, 

1 teaspoon of capers or chopped pickle. 

Having made the Mustard Dressing (see receipt), work 
into it the parsley, chives, and capers ; add cayenne or, bet- 



262 GOOD-LIVING. 

ter still, tabasco, and salt to taste. Set on the ice. Serve 
with brain fritters, fried smelt, lobster chops, cold fish, etc., 
etc. Delicious. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

SAUCE AUX CONCOMBRES. 

2 gills of Mustard Dressing, i medium-sized cucumber, 

Yolk of I egg may be added if desired. 

Having made the Mustard Dressing (see receipt), add to 
it the cucumber, peeled and grated or chopped very fine. 
Set on ice until used. Delicious. 

APPLE SA UCE FOR PORK AND GOOSE. 

PUREE DE POMMES. 

6 large, tart apples, Soft sugar to taste, 

Butter, size of a walnut, Water. 

Pare, core, quarter the apples. Throw them into cold 
water as you prepare them. Put them into a saucepan with 
just enough water to prevent scorching, not more than 2 gills. 
Boil very gently, uncovered, for about 40 minutes, or until 
the apples are perfectly soft. Press them through a coarse 
sieve ; add the butter and sugar to taste, and serve. 

N. B. — Be careful not to allow the sauce to scorch. 

MATELOTE SAUCE FOR FLSH. 

SAUCE MATELOTE. 

% pint Espagnole or Brown Sauce, 3 onions, 

2 tablespoons of mushroom catsup, 1 gill of port wine, 

Bunch of sweet-herbs, %, bay-leaf, 

1 clove, 2 allspice, 

Salt and pepper to taste, Lemon-juice and anchovy sauce. 

Slice and fry the onions brown, but do not burn. Put 
them in a saucepan with the Espagnole (see receipt), catsup, 
wine, and 1 gill or 2 of the liquor in which the bones of the 
fish have boiled (or boiling water). Add seasonings, herbs, 



JELLY SAUCE FOR VENLSON, ETC. 263 

spices. Simmer 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Strain 
through a fine sieve ; add a squeeze of lemon-juice and an- 
chovy sauce to taste. Serve, pouring some of the sauce 
over the fish and the rest in a boat. This is an especially 
good sauce for baked fish ; may also be used with boiled 
fish, or may be prepared and the filets of fish stewed in it 
for about 5 minutes or more, according to their size. The 
Espagnole may be replaced by the same quantity of fish- 
broth thickened with roux (see Brown Roux). 

CRANBERR Y SA UCE. 

Put the berries, well washed and picked over, in a sauce- 
pan with just enough water to prevent scorching, about I 
gill to a quart of fruit. Stew gently over a moderate fire. 
Stir frequently with a wooden spoon, mashing the fruit as 
much as possible. When the berries are all mashed and 
smooth (about 20 minutes), remove the saucepan from the 
fire, and stir in immediately enough sugar to sweeten to 
taste. Dissolve the sugar, but do not boil again. Rinse a 
mould with cold water ; pour in the fruit and set away to 
harden ; or if preferred, press the fruit through a coarse sieve, 
rejecting all the skins, and putting the smooth sauce into a 
mould as above. Serve with roast turkey. 

JELLY SAUCE FOR VENLSON, ETC. 

Equal quantities of butter, currant-jelly, and port or ma- 
deira. Melt the butter first, then add the jelly, and when it 
is melted, the wine. Bring to boiling point and serve. 

Or, if you do not wish to use so much wine, put the jelly, 
a large piece of butter, and a little boiling water in a sauce- 
pan. When this comes to a boil, stir in a little corn-starch 
blended with a few drops of cold water. Add a little cayenne 
and some salt. Boil for 3 minutes ; add wine to taste ; 
bring to boiling point and serve. The proportions for this 
last : 1 teaspoon of butter, ^ tumbler of jelly, I gill of water, 
I small teaspoonful of corn-starch, i gill of wine. 



TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING VEGETABLES. 





Hours. 


Minutes. 




1 
1 
1 


25 to 35 












To boil Jerusalem artichokes — Put on in boiling water. 


15 to 20 


To boil French globe artichokes — Put on in boiling water 




about 30 






20 to 30 
10 to 15 
20 to 40 




String-beans, uncovered — Put on in salted boiling water 


Lima beans — Put on in boiling water 




about 40 




1 
4 








Broccoli — Put on in salted boiling water 


30 


Brussels sprouts, uncovered — Salted boiling water 




about 20 


Green corn ; no salt — Put on in boiling water 




20 


Cabbage, young, quartered — Salted boiling water 




30 to 45 


Cabbage, cut like slaw — Put on in boiling water 


1 


20 

20 to 30 

20 about 


Carrots, winter, whole — Put on in boiling water 


Cauliflower — Put on in boiling water 


2 


30 to 40 
30 about 
20 to 30 
30, about 


Celeriac (celery-root), sliced — Put on in boiling water. . 
Lentils — Soak overnight ; put on in lukewarm water . . . 


Okra — Put on in boiling water. 




30 


Onions, young — Put on in salted boiling water 




40 to 60 


Onions, winter — Put on in salted boiling water 


2 


more or less 


Onions, large Spanish — Boil I hour ; bake i hour 

Oyster-plant, or salsify — Put on in boiling water 

Green peas, uncovered — Put on in plenty of boiling water 
Parsnips — Soak overnight ; put on in lukewarm water.. 


2 

I 

I 
I 


or more 
about 
20 to 30 
15, about 


Sorrel, uncovered — Scald ; boil only until wilted 

Spinach, uncovered — Scald ; boil only until wilted 


10 to 15 
10 to 15 


Samp — Soak overnight ; boil 5 hours ; stew 1 hour. . .. 
Tomatoes, uncovered — Stew 


6 
3 


about 


Tomatoes — Baked plain 




or more 


Turnips, young or sliced — Put on in boiling water .... 
Turnips, winter — Put on in boiling water 


1 


30 

30, about 



VEGETABLES. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

As we are particularly favored in this country by the 
bountiful supply and variety of our vegetables, we should 
take very great care in their preparation in order to do them 
justice. Always procure the freshest that you can. If by 
any chance you are obliged to use those which have been in 
the house 24 hours, lay them in cold water to freshen and 
revive them before cooking. The time-table for vegetables 
has been most carefully prepared, and will answer most 
questions that are asked of it. There is to be added, how- 
ever, one thing upon which too great stress cannot be laid. 
When the vegetable is cooked perfectly tender and ready to 
be removed from the fire, drain it thoroughly. Not only 
allow the water to run off, but, wherever it is possible, press 
the water out in the colander ; or, when this is not possible, 
stand the colander on something over the fire, that the water 
may be driven off by the heat. Resort to" any device that 
may suggest itself to you rather than allow your vegetables 
to remain wet and soggy. Any amount of seasoning that 
you may add will not give them the proper taste if the water 
from the boiling is allowed to remain in them. 

Certain vegetables, notably string-beans, green peas, 
spinach, sorrel, and Brussels sprouts, should always be 
boiled uncovered, to preserve the freshness of their color. It 
will be found less necessary, in this case, to use soda for the 
same purpose, unless the water is very hard. Another 
important rule is to remove the vegetable from the fire and 
drain it the moment it is sufficiently cooked. Do not draw 
it aside and let it stand in the water, or it will be quite 
spoiled. 

265 



266 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO BOIL POT A TOES (WINTER). 

POMMES DE TERRE AU NATUREL. 

Select potatoes of uniform size. It is best not to pare 
them beforehand, unless it to be to remove a narrow belt of 
skin all around the potato. However, toward the end of the 
winter, they require to be peeled and the blemishes removed. 
When this time comes, it is best to serve them prepared ac- 
cording to some of the various receipts for dressing potatoes. 

Put the potatoes into an iron pot, with just enough well- 
salted cold water to cover them. Do not put the lid on the 
pot. Let them boil until nearly done, 25 to 30 minutes. 
Try them with a fork, and if almost tender all through, pour 
off all but about I gill of the water in the bottom of the pot. 
Return it to the fire, and put on a close cover ; steam until 
quite done ; then remove the lid, sprinkle with salt, and 
allow them to stand a few minutes on the fire to evaporate 
the water. They should be dry and flaky. If not, cover 
with a towel or flannel folded in 4, and let stand a few 
minutes longer. Dish carefully, previously peeling if neces- 
sary. It will require about 35 minutes for the entire process 
for potatoes of medium size. 

The water in which unpeeled potatoes are boiled is said to 
be poisonous, and an excellent means of destroying green-fly 
on rose-bushes. 

POTATOES TO SERVE WITH BOILED EISH. 

POMMES DE TERRE AU COURT BOUILLON. 

Cut the potatoes in the shape of large olives. Throw them 
into cold water as you trim them. If you boil the fish in 
Fish Stock or Court Bouillon, take some of the same and 
boil the potatoes in it 15^ or 20 minutes, until tender. When 
the fish is dished, drain, salt, and dry the potatoes, and 
arrange them tastefully around the fish, with plenty of 
parsley as a garnish. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce. 



BAKED POTATOES. 267 

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. 

These should never be peeled with a knife. Scrub and 
rub the skin until clean. Cover with boiling water, and boil 
rapidly from 1 5 to 20 minutes with the cover on. Drain the 
potatoes; sprinkle with salt, and put back. on the fire, un- 
covered, for a few minutes to dry. Dish in a folded napkin, 
and serve very hot. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE EN PUREE. 

6 or seven potatoes, 1 gill of cream, 

1 tablespoon of butter, Salt and pepper. 

Peel and boil as directed for Winter Potatoes. Slightly 
heat the cream, butter, salt, and pepper. When the potatoes 
are cooked, and all are hot, add the cream to the potatoes 
and mash until perfectly smooth. Be generous with good 
butter. Make the puree very soft, and if you want it par- 
ticularly perfect, beat it hard with a fork or egg-beater a few 
minutes before serving. Serve very hot. 

POTATO SNOW. 

POMMES DE TERRE EN NEIGE. 

Boil as directed with the skins on. Then peel the potatoes 
and set for a few minutes over the fire to dry out, having 
sprinkled them with salt. When quite dry, rub them 
through a colander. Do not disturb the snow as it drops, or 
it will flatten. This same preparation may be put into a 
bake-dish and set in the oven until slightly browned. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Select for this purpose the largest and smoothest. Put 
them in the oven, opening the door every little while, taking 
each one in a coarse cloth and pressing it all over. They 
will require about I hour. 



268 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO ROAST POTATOES WITH BEEF. 

Select potatoes of uniform size. Peel ; wash clean, and 
lay in the pan with the beef (mutton or veal) about I hour 
before the meat is to be done. Baste frequently ; serve 
around the meat. 

COLD BOILED POTATOES. 

NOTE. — All potatoes, which are to be boiled first and then 
dressed, must be boiled in their skins and set away to get 
cold with their skins on. This applies especially to potatoes 
to be used in hashes. It makes a wonderful difference, and 
should be observed ; the potato is much easier to cut neatly, 
and does not crumble to pieces in the cooking. For potato 
salad, the potatoes should never be cooked in any other way. 

POTATOES SAUTE. 

POMMES DE TERRE SAUTEES. 

Having boiled the potatoes and set them away with their 
skins on, peel them, cutting across in slices about ^ of an 
inch thick. The potatoes used should be rather small. 
Heat a large lump of butter in a saucepan. Lay the pota- 
toes in, cover, and stew, not fry, them in the butter. There 
must be enough butter for every slice to get its coating and 
absorb as much as it will. Chop a tablespoonful of chervil 
and one of parsley as fine as powder. Stir it carefully into 
the potatoes ; add salt and pepper, and when they have 
cooked about 1 5 minutes, serve. They should not be allowed 
to crisp or brown. Shake the pan from time to time to 
prevent sticking or browning. 

New potatoes may be sauted as above, but whole. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES, 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE. 

Having boiled the potatoes with their skins on and left 
them to cool in the same way, peel, and slice about |- of an 



POTATO PUFF. 269 

inch thick. Put a large tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- 
pan. When the butter melts, throw in \ of an onion, chopped 
fine. Fry it light golden-brown ; then lay in the potatoes ; 
draw the pan to a cooler part of the range, and let the pota- 
toes cook in the butter until it is nearly absorbed. Then let 
it stand on the hotter part of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes until 
the edges of the potatoes are very slightly browned. Add 
pepper, salt, and 1 tablespoonful each of parsley and chervil, 
chopped as fine as powder. Mix very carefully with the 
potatoes and serve on a hot dish. On no account allow the 
potatoes to fry brown or crisp. They must be sauted, not 
fried. Or, another way is to fry half an onion in the butter ; 
remove it ; then put in the potatoes and finish as above 
directed. This is even more delicate. Serve with beefsteak, 
etc. 

FRIED POTATO HASH. 

Having boiled and cooled the potatoes with their skins 
on, peel and chop, not too fine. Melt in a frying-pan a large 
lump of sweet drippings or butter, or both mixed. Quite a 
large tablespoonful of each will be required for an ordinary 
dish of potatoes. When the butter is hot, lay in the pota- 
toes. Sprinkle generously with pepper and salt. Take a 
long knife, and every minute or two run it under the pota- 
toes, turning them up from the bottom. Be careful not to 
mash them. Fry until the edges are well browned, and 
serve. 

POTATO puff: 

2 cups of hot or cold mashed potatoes, i tablespoon of butter, 

3 tablespoons of cream, 2 eggs, 

Salt and pepper. 

Put the potatoes into a frying-pan, adding the yolks of 
e gg s > cream, and seasonings. Stir over the fire until well 
mixed and hot. Remove from the fire. Stir in carefully 
the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Heap on a greased sheet 
of tin, or in gem-pans, and bake in a quick oven until well 
browned. 



270 GOOD-LIVING. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE. 

2 cups of mashed potatoes, Yolks of 2 eggs, 

I teaspoon of grated onion or juice, I teaspoon of salt, 

I " " powdered sweet-marjoram, 2 tablespoons of cream, 

I tablespoon of chopped parsley, Butter, size of a walnut, 
Cayenne. 

Beat the yolks to a cream ; add them and all the other 
ingredients to the potatoes ; mix. Put into a saucepan and 
stir over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of the 
pan. When cold, form into balls or long croquettes I x 2\ 
inches. Dip first in egg, then in bread-crumbs, making them 
very smooth and even. Set away in the ice-box for I hour 
or more. Then fry golden-brown. The lard should be deep 
enough to cover them. Use a frying-basket (see General 
Directions for Frying). When fried light golden-brown, drain 
on brown paper and set in the mouth of the oven. When 
dry, serve as a garnish for braised meat of any kind, or as a 
vegetable. 

NEW ORLEANS POTATOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA CREOLE. 

Pare and cut raw potatoes into f-inch dice. Throw them 
into ice-water for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Drain very dry. 
Have ready a kettle of deep lard. When you are sure it is 
really boiling, drop in the potatoes and fry golden brown 4 
to 5 minutes (see General Directions for Frying). Lift them 
out; drain; dry on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. 
Sprinkle with salt, and serve. A £ onion fried first in the 
lard gives a very pleasant flavor. 

POTATO BALLS. 

POMMES DE TERRE EN BOULETTES. 

5 medium-sized potatoes, Nutmeg, cayenne, salt, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, Yolk of 1 egg. 

Prepare the potatoes as directed for Mashed Potatoes. 
While hot, add the other ingredients. Mix well. Roll into 



POTATOES A LA BRABANCONNE. 27 1 

balls, making the surface even and very smooth. Dip in 
egg, then in fine bread-crumbs, and fry in deep boiling lard. 
Use a frying-basket (see General Directions for Frying). 
When fried gold-color, drain ; dry on brown paper in the 
mouth of the oven. Dish in a pyramid on a folded napkin 
or cut paper, or use as a garnish for roasted or braised filet, 
veal, etc., etc. 

POTATO SOUFFLE. 

POMMES DE TERRE EN SOUFFLE. 

2 cups of potatoes, mashed 2 eggs, 

2 tablespoons of melted butter, Salt, 

6 " " cream. _ Pepper. 

Beat the the potatoes and butter until smooth and light ; 
add the cream, yolks of eggs, and salt. Beat the whites to a 
stiff froth and stir them in. Heap upon a tin in a rough, 
uneven mound (neat, but jagged, so that the tips and 
edges, when browned, will look nicely), and set in the oven 
until well browned ; or bake in a dish that can be sent 
to table. Or, use this same mixture to make an edge for 
fricassee or curry, using a dish which can go both in the 
oven and to the table. Note. — 2 tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese added to the cream is a great improvement. 

POTATOES A LA BRABANQONNE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA BRABANCONNE. 

6 potatoes, mashed, Pepper and salt, 

2 tablespoons of chopped ham, Bread-crumbs, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, Butter, 

^ onion, grated, Cream. 

Prepare the Mashed Potatoes as directed (see receipt), add- 
ing cream, butter, etc. To this add the ham, parsley, onion, 
pepper, and salt. Put the mixture into a fire-proof dish that 
can be sent to table. Cover the potatoes with fine bread- 
crumbs and dots of butter, and bake 20 minutes, until the 
top is nicely browned. 



272 GOOD-LIVING. 

FARCIED POTATOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE FARCIES. 

6 smooth, medium-sized potatoes, 3 teaspoons of butter, 

Salt, pepper, cayenne, 3 " " grated cheese, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 " " cream, 

Milk or cream, I egg. 

Wash and bake the potatoes, squeezing often during the 
cooking. Cut an end off of each one ; scoop out the soft 
inside with a teaspoon. Do not break the skins. Set aside 
the empty shells. Mash the soft potato very smooth ; add 
the butter, cream, parsley, chopped as fine as powder ; the 
salt, pepper, cheese, and a good dash of cayenne. The best 
cheese for this purpose is a mixture of equal parts of grated 
Parmesan and Gruyere. Put the mixture into a saucepan 
with enough good milk or cream to make it quite soft. Stir 
over the fire until scalding hot. Remove and stir in the egg, 
which has been slightly beaten. Fill the empty potato-shells 
with this. Round out the ends ; cover the ends with bread- 
crumbs, and set in the oven until nicely browned, about 15 
minutes. 

5 TE WED PO TA TOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA POULETTE. 

12 potatoes, small, I tablespoon of flour, 

1 cup of milk, 1 large tablespoon of butter, 

Chopped parsley, 1 egg, 

Pepper and salt. 

Having previously boiled the potatoes with their skins on 
and set away to cool as directed, peel and cut them into dice. 
Put into a saucepan with pepper, salt, and milk. Bring to a 
boil, then stir in the flour blended with a little cold milk. 
Stir carefully, and put on one side where the potatoes can 
stew very gently for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring to prevent 
scorching. It is safest to cook these over boiling water 
(bain-marie). Then add the butter and finely-chopped 









POTATOES A LA DIABLE. 2?$ 

parsley. Stir these in. When the butter is melted, remove 
from the fire and stir in the egg, which has been slightly 
beaten. Do not cook after the egg is added. Serve in a 
very hot dish for breakfast or luncheon. 

POTATOES A LA D ELM ON ICO. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA DELMONICO. 

Cold boiled potatoes, I pint of milk, 

I heaping tablespoon of flour, i tablespoon of butter, 

Pepper and salt, Bread-crumbs. 

Having boiled the potatoes and allowed them to cool with 
their skins on, slice them quite thin. Blend together over 
the fire the butter and flour ; draw aside and stir into them 
the boiling milk. Boil 3 minutes. Put the potatoes into a 
bake-dish ; pour the sauce seasoned with pepper and salt, over 
the potatoes. Cover with bread-crumbs and dots of butter, 
and bake 15 minutes, or long enough to heat through 
thoroughly. 

PHILADELPHIA POTATOES. 

Prepare according to receipt for Potatoes a la Delmonico, 
omitting the bread-crumbs and using instead an egg to cover 
the top. Bake as directed. 

POTATOES A LA DIABLE. 

POMMES DE TERRE k LA DIABLE. 

Potatoes, Lard, 

French mustard, Butter. 

Cut the potatoes into small rounds with a cutter. Throw 

them into ice-cold water. Have ready some boiling lard 

deep enough to cover the balls. Dry the potatoes, and 

when the lard is boiling, fry them, shaking now and again to 

brown evenly. Use a f rying-basket if possible. If not, when 

the potatoes are done (about 5 minutes), remove them with 
18 



274 GOOD-LIVING. 

a skimmer and drain. Rub up some French mustard with a 
large lump of butter. Put it with the potatoes into a sauce- 
pan. Shake for a few moments, then turn into a deep dish 
with the butter, and serve. 

ERICA SEED POTATOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE, SAUCE BLANCHE. 

Having boiled a dozen medium-sized potatoes and left 
them to cool with their skins on, peel and cut them in slices 
\ of an inch thick. Make a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt). 
Stir the potatoes carefully into this. Set over boiling water 
to stew for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching 
(use a farina-kettle) ; then stir in I tablespoonful of finely- 
chopped parsley, the same of chives, and serve in a hot dish. 

CREAM POTATO HASH. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA CREME. 

Prepare as above, the sauce being thickened in part with 
some of the potato mashed. Use plenty of cream and butter. 
Omit the chives and parsley if preferred. The potatoes 
should be hashed, or cut in dice of about \ of an inch, and 
heated in the sauce as directed. 

POTATOES A LA DUG HESSE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE. 

Prepare the potatoes as directed for Potato Souffl6, 
adding pepper, a pinch each of salt and sugar, melted 
butter, yolks of eggs, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff 
froth. Make the mixture into flat squares; egg the tops and 
bake on a tin ; placing far enough apart not to touch each 
other. Or, spread the mixture in a greased baking-pan to the 
depth of 1 inch. Mark the top neatly with the point of the 
knife ; egg it over and brown in the oven ; when done, cut the 
cake into rectangular pieces of even size, and use as a garnish 
for roast beef, filet, or veal. 



POTATO CHIPS. 275 

POTATOES A LA BOURGEOISE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOURGEOISE. 

10 potatoes, medium, Consomme or meat gravy. 

3 leeks, sliced fine, Salt and pepper. 

Peel and boil the potatoes cut in 4, until about half done, 
20 minutes ; drain off the water ; cover with good stock or 
any meat-juice or gravy that may remain from stew or roast. 
Add the leeks, pepper, and salt. Cover and set on one side 
of the range where they will stew gently for 30 minutes 
or more, until the potatoes begin to melt away ; then serve. 
This is an excellent dish for family luncheon. The leeks may 
be omitted. 

POTATOES A LA HOLLANDAISE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA HOLLANDAISE. 

15 medium-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter. 

Salt. 

Peel the potatoes. Cover them with cold water ; add salt, 
and bring to a boil. When boiled perfectly tender (about 25 
minutes), drain and put into a saucepan with the melted 
butter. Cover and set them on the back of the range where 
they will not boil. Shake them from time to time, and 
when they have absorbed most of the butter and are almost 
ready to go to pieces, serve with the butter that remains in 
the saucepan, or with Sauce Hollandaise (see receipt). 

POTATO CHIPS. 

POMMES DE TERRE FRITES. 

Slice 2 or 3 medium-sized potatoes just as thin as possible 
(there is a plane made for the purpose). As you slice, throw 
them into a bowl of water and ice. Let them lie in the 
water until freezing cold. Meanwhile have a kettle of lard, 
at least 3 inches deep, on the fire. Bring it gradually to a 
boil. Test it (see General Directions for Frying). When 
the lard is ready, lay the potatoes, a few at a time, in a clean 



276 GOOD-tTVING. 

cloth ; cover and pat them dry, dropping them quickly into 
the lard, as they must not lose their coldness in handling. 
Have at hand a skimmer and keep the slices apart in the lard 
while they are cooking. The instant they are light yellow, 
skim them out upon a colander set in the mouth of the oven, 
putting a plate under to catch any lard that may drip. 
Sprinkle evenly with salt. Or the potatoes, when drained, 
may be laid upon brown paper in the mouth of the oven. 
They will keep for some time in a dry place, but must 
always be heated in the mouth of the oven before serving. 
Never let them brown. If properly fried, there should not 
be an atom of grease upon them. This is the Saratoga way 
of cooking potato chips. Serve with beefsteak, etc. 

JULIENNE POTATOES. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA JULIENNE. 

Peel and cut raw potatoes in long, thin strips. Fry in 
boiling lard as directed for Potato Chips. Serve with 
beefsteak, etc. 

POTATOES A LA PARISIENNE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA PARISIENNE. 

10 potatoes, 4 ounces of butter, 

Salt and pepper. Chopped parsley. 

Peel the raw potatoes and cut them in balls with a scoop 
made for the purpose. Throw them into a bowl of cold 
water as you cut them. Then drain them and put into 
salted boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain them dry and put 
into a frying-pan with the hot butter. Toss them until each 
has its share of butter. Set the pan in the oven for a few 
minutes until the potatoes are brown ; then sprinkle them 
with salt and chopped parsley and serve. 

Or, having cut them in balls, scalded and well dried as 
above, throw them into boiling lard 2 inches deep, and cook 
until of an even golden brown ; drain on brown paper ; 
sprinkle with salt and serve. 



SWEET POTATO PUREE WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 2JJ 
POT A TOES A LA FRANgAISE. 

POMMES DE TERRE A LA FRANCAISE. 

Peel ; cut raw in length, in sections like an orange and throw 
in very cold water ; dry in a towel and fry in boiling lard until 
gold color. Drain on brown paper ; sprinkle with salt, and 
serve with beefsteak, etc. 

BAKED SWEET POTATOES. 

PATATES DOUCES. 

Wash the potatoes, and put them in the oven. From time 
to time open the door, and with a cloth, squeeze them until 
tender. The time varies with the size, but is about I hour. 

FRIED SWEET POTATOES. 

PATATES DOUCES SAUTEES AU BEURRE. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes lengthwise in slices. Fry in very 
hot butter till brown. Be careful not to burn. Or, saute 
them, as directed for white potatoes. 

CARAMEL SWEET POTATOES. 

PATATES DOUCES AU CARAMEL. 

Fry as above directed ; while frying, sprinkle with sugar. 
This serves for a simple dessert. 

SWEET POTATO PUREE WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

PUREE DE PATATES DOUCES, SAUCE TOMATE. 

, Boil the potatoes, peeled, until tender, about I hour ; or, 
still better, bake them. Either way will do, but baking in- 
creases their sweetness. When soft, remove the skin and 
mash them as directed for Sweet Potato Pur6e. Add a large 



278 GOOD-LIVING. 

lump of butter, and enough milk to make the puree just soft 
enough to hold in shape when heaped in a mound. Season 
with pepper and salt. Use this to fill the centre of a dish of 
veal cutlets, saute or fried, small filets, chops, etc., etc. Serve 
in a sauce-boat, at the same time, a rich Tomato Sauce (see 
receipt). This is an excellent combination. Sweet potatoes 
prepared in this way make a very good substitute for Puree 
of Chestnuts. 

SWEET POTA TOES ROASTED WITH ME A T. 

Peel and wash the potatoes. One hour before the joint is 
to be served, lay the potatoes in the pan, and baste from 
time to time with the gravy. Dish around the meat, and 



SWEET POTATO PUREE BAKED. 

Sweet potatoes, 1 egg, 

Milk, Butter, 

Salt. 

Put 4 to 8 sweet potatoes, according to size, into the oven 
to bake, squeezing them with a cloth from time to time until 
perfectly soft, about I hour. When done, peel ; mash through 
a colander. Add a large tablespoonful of butter, the larger 
the better ; milk enough to make the pur£e of the consist- 
ency of soft dough. Add a pinch of salt. Butter a tin pie- 
plate, or sheet of tin. Arrange the pur£e in a neat mound. 
Beat an egg slightly, and with it brush over the puree. Set 
in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until a good brown crust 
is formed over the top. The above may also be made with 
boiled sweet potatoes, but baking makes them sweeter. Do 
not spare the butter. 

BOILED S WEE T PO TA TOES. 

Wash and put them down in boiling water, boiling about 
I hour or more, according to size. This vegetable varies so 
in size as to make it impossible to fix the time exactly. 



BAKED TOMATOES. 279 

FRIED TOMA TOES WITH CREAM. 

TOMATES FRITES A LA CREME. 

Cut 6 large tomatoes in half, without peeling. Lay them, 
skin-side downward, in a pan, in which you have melted a 
large tablespoonful of butter and sweet drippings mixed. 
Fry slowly until tender. Three tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water may be added to the pan at first, as it will steam off 
and make the tomatoes more tender, without blackening 
them, as if cooked with butter alone. When tender, remove 
the tomatoes to a hot dish ; let the butter brown a little, with 
a tablespoonful of flour stirred into it. When brown, draw 
aside and stir into it \ pint of boiling milk, stirring and 
blending until smooth. Stir and boil 3 minutes, then pour 
this over the tomatoes, adding salt and cayenne to taste. 
This is not a pretty dish, but is excellent. If the top of the 
range is occupied, the pan of tomatoes may be set in the 
oven, with equally good results. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

TOMATES FARCIES. 

Select medium-sized smooth tomatoes for this purpose. 
Cut a slice from the stem end. With a spoon scoop out all 
the seeds and centre, taking care not to break the outer 
walls. Drain off the water from the inside that has been 
removed. Take sufficient bread-crumbs to fill the cavities 
thus made. Chop about 1 tablespoonful of parsley very 
fine ; mix it with the crumbs, adding plenty of salt and pep- 
per. Melt a large tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan ; 
stir in the bread-crumbs and the solid part of the tomato 
centres. Stir them until well mixed, 5 minutes ; then fill 
the tomatoes, heaping a little above the edge ; sprinkle with 
bread-crumbs ; put a small lump of butter on each ; set in a 
baking-pan, with a small lump of butter, and bake in a 
moderate oven 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. 



28o GOOD-LIVING. 

STUFFED TOM A TOES A LA REINE. 

TOMATES FARCIES A LA REINE. 

^ pound of white meat, chicken, veal, I tablespoon of vinegar, 

or lamb, I egg, 

Bulk of meat in bread-crumbs, I saltspoon of salt, 

I heaping tablespoon of chopped pars- Pinch of sugar, 

ley, Cayenne to taste, 

I heaping tablespoon of chopped ham, I onion, grated, 
12 medium-sized tomatoes. 

Chop the meat very fine ; add stale bread-crumbs ; then 
all the other seasonings, reserving the egg. Cut the stem 
end from the tomatoes ; scoop out all the soft part with a 
small spoon, being careful not to break the outer walls. 
Drain the fruity part of the tomato and mix it with the 
stuffing. Chop all together very fine. Have the empty 
tomatoes in a tin pan with a small lump of butter. Put a 
lump of butter into the frying-pan, and, when hot, put in the 
dressing and stir it over a sharp fire, taking care not to burn. 
Remove from the fire. If not as soft as a very thick custard, 
add a little broth. When slightly cool, beat in the egg and 
fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Cover the tops with 
bread-crumbs and dots of butter; bake about 30 minutes. 
Serve as a separate entree, or with chicken or veal. 

STUFFED TOMATOES WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

TOMATES FARCIES A L'ECARLATE. 

Having prepared the tomatoes as directed for Stuffed 
Tomatoes a la Reine, make a rich Tomato Sauce (see 
receipt), to which add about 1 gill of sherry. Serve the 
tomatoes neatly dished and garnished, with the sauce in a 
sauce-boat, as an entree. 

TOMATOES ROASTED WITH BEEF OR VEAL. 

Select tomatoes of uniform size. Wash ; cut out the stem 
end ; sprinkle with pepper and salt and place in the pan with 



TOMATOES SCALLOPED. 28 1 

roasting beef or veal I hour before the meat is to be done. 
If very small, allow a little less time. Baste frequently, and 
dish around the meat. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Wash the tomatoes, then throw boiling water over them ; 
let stand for 5 minutes, and the skins will slip off easily. Cut 
off the stem end ; divide in 2 or 4, and throw into a china- 
lined kettle. Set on the fire uncovered. In about an hour, 
ladle out all the juice and set it aside to serve for soup (see 
Tomato Soup or Okra Gumbo). Add to this I onion cut in 
4. Simmer for about I or 2 hours longer. They must cook 
very slowly. Now drain off all superfluous juice ; add a 
lump of butter, pepper, salt, and, if the tomatoes are very 
acid, a pinch of sugar ; serve. This is certainly the best way 
to stew tomatoes, but is rather extravagant, unless at the 
height of the season, as it takes about a peck of tomatoes to 
make a good dishful stewed. After cooking 2 hours, be 
careful not to let them cook rapidly or scorch, or they will 
acquire a bitterish taste from the seeds. A good way also 
is, after scalding -and peeling as above, to put them in a 
china-lined kettle, uncovered, draining off after the first 
hour ; add a good handful of stale bread-crumbs, \ of a 
chopped onion, pepper and salt. The bread-crumbs being 
cooked for quite an hour longer with the tomatoes absorb a 
great deal of the superfluous juice, and become more like the 
fruit itself than any other thickening. The bread-crumbs 
must be very stale and dry. The usual system of using 
flour or corn-starch is not recommended. When ready to 
serve, add a lump of butter, pepper, and salt. 

TOMATOES SCALLOPED. 

Scald and skin enough tomatoes to fill a quart baking-dish. 
Lay a layer of these tomatoes in the bottom of the dish. 
Cover with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, dots of butter, 
pepper, and salt. Another layer of tomatoes ; then finish 



282 GOOD-LIVING. 

the top with a second layer of bread-crumbs closely packed, 
dotted over with butter, sprinkled with pepper and salt. 
Set in a slow oven for I hour to I hour and 15 minutes, 
until browned and baked down. As tomatoes are about 90 
per cent, water, they must always be steamed off in cooking 
or have the liquid absorbed in some way. Canned tomatoes 
may be cooked according to the above receipt, using only 
the solid fruit, and cooking about 45 minutes, perhaps less, 
in a quicker oven than the above. 

TO MA TOES STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS. 

TOMATES FARCIES AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

See receipt for Braised Filet of Beef with Farcied Toma- 
toes. 

TOMATO SOUFFLE. 

TOMATES EN SOUFFLE. 

Stew down the tomatoes as directed, draining off the 
liquid ; press the fruit through a coarse sieve. To about 2 
gills of this pulp allow 3 eggs. Beat the yolks and whites 
apart ; mix the yolks with the pulp ; season with pepper and 
salt ; then, at the last moment, add the whites beaten to a 
stiff froth. Fill buttered china souffle-cases with the mixture 
not more than £ full, and bake in a quick oven for 6 to 10 
minutes. Or heat a bake-dish large enough to hold all the 
souffle, and bake it in a very quick oven for about 10 to 15 
minutes. Watch carefully and serve immediately. For 
detailed directions for baking, see Omelette Souffle. 

TOM A TO-RICE. 

RIZ AUX TOMATES. 

Stew the tomatoes as directed ; press through a coarse 
sieve. To about 2 gills of this sauce allow I gill of rice; 
wash and boil 20 minutes. Drain the rice thoroughly and 



MUSHROOMS. 283 

mix with the sauce, adding salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, 
if the tomatoes are acid. Set the saucepan on one side 
where it can stew gently, uncovered, for 15 or 20 minutes. 
Take care that it does not scorch. Add a small lump of 
butter, and when it is melted, serve. Do not stir the rice 
around ; lift it from the bottom with a fork to mix it. If the 
pulp of the fruit is used in the preparation of this dish, it 
will be found to be much richer than the common fashion 
of using the juice of the tomato alone for the purpose. 

TOMATOES WITH MACARONI. 

MACARONI AUX TOMATES. 

Prepare according to the receipt for Macaroni a la Mila- 
naise, omitting the ham and cheese. 

MUSHROOMS. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

It is of primary importance in the choice of mushrooms to 
beware of the false ones, as they very closely resemble the 
edible ones. Never eat those that grow in shady, woody 
spots ; but give preference, on the contrary, to those that 
grow in the broad field and open sunshine. Gather them as 
soon after sunrise as possible. They should be snowy-white 
on top, and pale-pink in the gills underneath, if very young, 
but becoming from brown to black in the gills as the day 
advances and they grow older. It is no detriment to them 
to have spread open ; these are best for broiling, while the 
" button mushrooms " serve for other ways of cooking. The 
safest mushrooms are those that are raised in mushroom- 
houses. Those in the field should only be culled by persons 
who know and understand them. The skin of a good mush- 
room should peel off easily ; yet all mushrooms that do peel 
easily are not necessarily good ; on the other hand, there are 
some very terrible-looking ones, which are in reality perfectly 



284 GOOD-LIVING. 

innocuous, such as the morille, which is much used in France, 
and often dried. There are also " puff balls," which, though 
very alarming in appearance, make perfectly good and safe 
eating. But the point of the whole thing is this : do not 
trust your own judgment about them unless you have had 
experience. The only test that appears to exist is the old- 
fashioned one of the silver spoon, which, it is said, will dis- 
color in cooking if the mushrooms are poisonous. 



BROILED MUSHROOMS. 

CHAMPIGNONS GRILLES. 

Select the largest mushrooms that are to be had. Peel. 
Cut the stalks •£• an inch from the tops. Baste well with 
melted butter, sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt. Heat 
the broiler very hot ; lay the mushrooms upon it with the 
upper side down ; close it carefully, that the mushrooms may 
not be broken, and broil them over a clear fire, turning the 
broiler first on one side, then on the other. As soon as ten- 
der, which will be in about 5 minutes, open the broiler, 
remove the mushrooms carefully to trimmed and well-but- 
tered slices of toast, or thin bread fried in butter. Moisten 
with melted butter, and serve. 

FRIED MUSHROOMS. 

CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES A L'HUILE. 

Peel large, hot-house mushrooms, measuring 4 to 6 inches 
across, and cut the stalks close. Have ready in a frying-pan 
some sweet oil, pepper, and salt. When hot, put in the 
mushrooms and fry until thoroughly heated, about 5 min- 
utes, perhaps less. Too much cooking will toughen them. 
Serve on neatly-trimmed and buttered slices of thin toast, 
putting 1 teaspoonful of wine, white or sherry, on each 
mushroom. 



PLAIN STEWED MUSHROOMS. 28$ 

MUSHROOMS STEWED WITH CREAM. 

CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES A LA CREME. 

I pint of fresh mushrooms, I tablespoon of butter, 

Flour, 2 tablespoons of thick cream, 

1 egg-yolk, 1 tablespoon of sherry, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Peel the mushrooms and scrape the stems. Cut off the 
earthy ends of the stalks. Wash in cold water. Put into a 
china-lined saucepan. Cut the butter into 4 parts ; roll each 
in flour, and put into the saucepan. Simmer for 1 5 minutes, 
stirring occasionally ; then add the cream, salt, and pepper. 
Bring to a boil. Remove from the fire and stir in the yolk 
of egg beaten with the sherry. Serve immediately in a deep, 
hot dish. 

TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS. 

1 can of mushrooms, 1 tablespoon of butter, 
Yolk of I egg, 1 " " sherry, 

2 gills of milk, or cream, 1 " " flour, 
Salt, Pepper. 

Drain the mushrooms. Put the butter into a china-lined 
saucepan ; when melted, stir in the flour ; rub smooth ; add 
the boiling milk and stir until it boils 2 minutes. Add the 
mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and stir only until thoroughly 
heated. Remove from the fire ; stir in the egg beaten with 
the wine ; then serve on neatly trimmed and buttered slices 
of toaet, or on thin slices of bread fried in butter. In cook- 
ing canned mushrooms, do not boil them, as they are already 
cooked, and only require to be heated. 

PLAIN STEWED MUSHROOMS. 

CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES, NATURE. 

1 pint of fresh mushrooms, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

Salt and pepper, Flour or corn-starch. 

Peel the tops of the mushrooms ; scrape the stalks, cutting 
off the earthy ends. Throw them in cold water as you peel 



286 GOOD-LIVING. 

them. Take them out of the water with your hands, letting 
all the water drip from them, but do not dry them. Put 
them in a china-lined saucepan on the fire. Rub the butter 
up with about a teaspoonful of flour, or a little less corn- 
starch ; when the mushrooms begin to stew, stir in the 
butter ; stew gently for about 1 5 minutes, if you have used 
flour ; if you use corn-starch, add it 3 minutes before the 
mushrooms are to be served. Add salt and pepper, and 
serve. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS. 

Select large mushrooms. Peel. Cut off the stalks half an 
inch from the top. Place them with the upper side down in 
a pie-dish ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; put a small piece 
of butter on each. Bake in a quick oven 10 to 15 minutes, 
until tender, basting frequently with melted butter. Add a 
few drops of lemon-juice. Serve hot on the same dish. 

MUSHROOMS A LA BORD-ELAISE. 

CHAMPIGNONS A LA BORDELAISE. 

I pound of best mushrooms, I tablespoon of oil, 

12 whole pepper-corns, Pinch of salt. 

Peel the mushrooms ; scrape the stalks ; wash ; remove 
the earthy ends ; drain and cut in even pieces. Put them 
into a bowl with the oil, salt, and black pepper-corns. Let 
them stand 2 hours. Melt a piece of butter the size of a 
hickory-nut in a saucepan. Now drain out the mushrooms ; 
put them into the saucepan with the butter and stew for 6 
minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce as follows : 

3 tablespoons of oil, I teaspoon of chopped parsley. 

1 clove of garlic, crushed and chopped, i " chopped chives. 

Put these ingredients into a saucepan ; stir over the fire 
for five minutes ; then pour the sauce over the mushrooms, 
and serve on large Croutons fried in butter (see receipt). 



TO BOIL ASPARAGUS. 287 

SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS. 

COQUILLES DE CHAMPIGNONS. 

Cut the mushrooms if too large, after peeling them and 
trimming the stalks. Throw them for a few minutes into 
boiling water, then drain and throw into cold water to whiten 
them. Dry well and saute 1 in hot butter for 3 minutes. 
Then add, when almost done, a teaspoon of flour and some 
chopped parsley. Stir, and in 3 minutes add a cupful of 
boiling broth. Let it simmer very gently for about 10 min- 
utes. Add lemon-juice, salt, and pepper. Remove from 
the fire and stir in the yolk of an egg beaten up with a few 
drops of cold water or 2 teaspoonfuls of sherry. Fill shells 
with this mixture ; cover the top with bread-crumbs ; dot 
with butter ; set in the oven until thoroughly hot, and serve. 

TO BOIL ASPARAGUS. 

ASPERGES EN BRANCHES. 

Scrape the coarse skin from each blade, throwing it into 
cold water as it is done. Then tie securely in a bunch with 
tapes or strips of muslin. Make the tips even, and cut the 
lower ends all of one length. Have ready an asparagus- 
boiler with boiling water and about •§- a teaspoonful of 
salt. Lay the asparagus on the drainer, and set it in the 
boiler. In 18 or 20 minutes after it comes again to a boil, 
the asparagus should be tender. Be careful that it does not 
boil%too soft. Remove the drainer, and not only drain the 
asparagus very thoroughly, but steam off all the moisture as 
well as you can. Have ready some thin slices of toast, but- 
tered and trimmed. Lay the bunch of asparagus on these ; 
then remove the strings. Serve in a sauce-boat apart, a 
Cream Sauce, or a White Sauce (see receipts), adding a few 
drops of lemon-juice or vinegar to the latter. A delicious 
sauce for asparagus is made thus : Take I yolk of hard- 
boiled egg for each person. Mash it to a powder; add a 
little salt and pepper, and rub into it enough melted butter 



288 GOOD-LIVING. 

to make it as thick as mayonnaise. Or, again, you may 
serve plain melted butter in a sauce-boat ; but avoid if pos- 
sible the prevailing fashion of serving asparagus looking 
like modified milk-toast, with drawn butter poured over it. 

N. B. — Take note that the asparagus (as indeed all boiled 
vegetables) should be drained dry. 

SPRUE AND EGGS (ENGLISH RECEIPT). 

Having cut 2 bunches of asparagus in i-inch pieces, 
using the tender parts only, boil it in 2 quarts of boiling 
water with \ an ounce of salt for about 10 minutes, until 
tender. Drain thoroughly. Take 3 eggs ; beat yolks and 
whites apart ; add to the yolks I tablespoonful of milk 
or cream, 1 teaspoonful of butter, salt, and pepper ; mix 
these with the asparagus. Stir in the whites ; put into a 
saucepan, and cook just long enough to heat them through ; 
then serve in a deep dish with a border of large Croutons 
(see receipt). 

STEWED ASPARAGUS TIPS. 

ASPERGES EN PETITS-POIS. 

4 bunches of green asparagus, 2 quarts of boiling water, 

^ ounce of salt, 2 ounces of butter, 

6 tablespoons of Cream Sauce, Pinch of grated nutmeg, 

1 level saltspoon of sugar, Salt and pepper. 

Cut the tender parts of the asparagus into pieces about 
1 inch long, and throw them into cold water. Have ready 
a saucepan with 2 quarts of boiling water and £ an ounce 
of salt. Drain the asparagus and throw it into the boiling 
water. Boil rapidly until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain 
very thoroughly, and return to the fire with the butter, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, sugar, and Cream Sauce (see receipt). Stir 
carefully, that you may not break the asparagus ; when 
scalding hot, serve on neatly trimmed rounds of thin, buttered 
toast. 

N. B. — Use the coarse ends of the asparagus for Asparagus 
Soup (see receipt). 



GREEN PEAS. 289 

TO BOIL GREEN PEAS. 

PETITS-POIS. 

Shell young peas into a bowl of cold water. When ready 
to cook them, have a large kettle of boiling water on the 
fire. Drain the peas and put them into the kettle. Do not 
put on the lid. Let them cook rapidly for about 20 minutes. 
Try 1 or 2 ; if not tender then, let them boil a little longer. 
The moment they are tender, remove them from the fire. 
Drain off the water ; add a very large lump of sweet, fresh 
butter, a dash of pepper, salt, and (if the peas are not of the 
sweetest) a pinch of sugar. Set them in a warm place until 
the butter melts, and serve very hot. 

N. B. — Boiling uncovered preserves the color. 

If the peas are fresh and good, they will require no more 
dressing than the above. When they begin to be older and 
less sweet, prepare them according to the following receipts. 
A head of lettuce may be added to the above if liked. 

STEWED PEAS. 

PETITS-POIS SAUTES. 

1 quart of peas, 3 ounces of butter, 

I ounce of chopped onion, % ounce of sugar, 

Salt, 1 gill of water, boiling. 

Cover closely, and stew very gently for 35 minutes. When 
tender, add the butter ; toss it well with the peas and serve 
as soon as it melts. 

N. B. — In this case the color must be sacrificed (by 
covering), as older peas are used and they must be cooked 
in such a way as to make them tender. 

GREEN PEAS. 

PETITS-POIS. 

Shell the peas. Select the youngest. Throw them into 

cold water. Put the pods in a kettle with boiling water, 
19 



29O GOOD-LIVING. 

and boil 30 minutes. Strain the water off and return it to 
the fire in the kettle. Bring to a boil. Drain out the peas 
(they should be of uniform size) and throw them into the boil- 
ing liquid. Do not put on the lid. Boil for 20 to 30 minutes, 
until the peas are tender. Remove them from the fire the 
very moment they are tender enough. Drain off all but 
I gill of the liquid ; add a large lump of butter, pepper, salt, 
a pinch of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. If liked, a 
pinch of flour may be also added, stirred, and boiled 3 
minutes. Pour over the peas and serve. A head of lettuce 
may be added to the above. 

PUREE OF PEAS. 

PUREE DE POIS. 

1 pint of dried peas or 2 pint cans, 1 bay-leaf, 

1 tablespoon of butter, 2 cloves, 

1 " " flour, I onion, 

1 pint of milk, I sprig of parsley, 

1 " " water, ^ pound of ham, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Wash the peas in cold water ; put them in a saucepan 
with cold water. Bring it to a boil. If canned, boil 20 
minutes ; if dried, 2 hours or more, until tender. When 
done, the water should be almost absorbed. When tender, 
press through a colander. Meanwhile put the milk on to boil 
in a farina-kettle with the bay-leaf, chopped onion, cloves, 
parsley, and ham. Rub the butter and flour together until 
smooth. When the milk has boiled 20 minutes, strain it into 
the peas ; then put the whole back into the farina-kettle ; 
stir in the flour and butter and continue to stir until it 
thickens and boils 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper and 
serve with veal cutlets or small filets, mutton chops, etc., etc. 
Puree of limas or other fresh beans may be made in the 
same way. 

N. B. — If dried peas are used, soak overnight ; if the 
water boils off too much before they are tender, add more, 
very little at a time. 



CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. 29 1 

TO BOIL CAULIFLOWER. 

CHOU-FLEUR. 

Trim off the outside leaves, leaving 1 row around the 
flower. Cut an X in the stalk. Have a large pot of boiling 
water on the fire. Add enough milk to whiten the water ; 
also one level teaspoonful of salt. The cauliflower should 
be left in vinegar and water for 20 to 30 minutes before 
boiling : this system is supposed to draw out any insects that 
may lurk within. Drain it thoroughly ; tie it loosely in a 
piece of cheese-cloth large enough to cover it entirely. Put 
it into the boiling water, which must cover it well. Let it 
boil until quite tender, but be careful that it does not go to 
pieces. As cauliflowers vary very much in size, only a gen- 
eral idea of the time required can be given. One of ordi- 
nary size will take about 40 minutes, perhaps more. When 
cooked, lift it out by the cheese-cloth, drain very thoroughly, 
and set in a round dish. Make a Cream Sauce (see receipt) ; 
pour it over the cauliflower ; cover, and let it stand for a few 
minutes for the sauce to penetrate. Then serve. Or, if a 
handsome specimen, successfully boiled, serve it in a round 
dish with a White Sauce served separately in a sauce-boat. 
Add a squeeze of lemon-juice to the sauce before serving. 
Small cauliflowers will not require more than 30 minutes to 
boil. 

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. 

CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN. 

Boil the cauliflower as directed. Set it in a round baking- 
dish which can be sent to table. For a moderate-sized cauli- 
flower make 1 pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt). Add to 
the sauce 2 heaping tablespoons each of grated Parmesan 
and Gruyere cheese, and a dash of cayenne.. Mix the sauce 
and pour it over the cauliflower, letting it penetrate all the 
crevices. Cover the top with fine, grated bread-crumbs, dot 
with butter, and bake 20 minutes. Serve in the same dish. 



292 GOOD-LIVING. 

BOILED CAULIFLOWER TOMATO SAUCE. 

CHOU-FLEUR, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Having boiled a medium-sized cauliflower very carefully as 
directed, place it on a round dish, after having thoroughly 
drained it. Have ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt) ; 
pour it around, not over, the cauliflower, and serve as a sep- 
arate course. This is a very pretty dish. Recommended. 

BROCCOLI. 
Prepare according to the receipts given for cauliflower. 

WINTER CABBAGE. 

CHOU. 

Cut in 4 ; lay in salted cold water for a little while, trim- 
ming off the outer leaves and stalk. Drain well, and put 
into a large pot of boiling water, allowing ^ an ounce of salt 
to the gallon. Boil very gently, covered, for 10 minutes, then 
remove from the fire ; drain off the water ; re-cover with salted 
boiling water as before, and boil for 1 hour or more until 
tender. Do not cover the pot after the first 10 minutes. 
Drain very dry ; dress with melted butter, pepper, and salt ; 
or chop it coarsely and cover with a rich Cream Sauce (see 
receipt). If boiled when cut like cold-slaw, it will only 
require about 30 minutes. Drain and dress as above. 

SUMMER CABBAGE. 

CHOU. 

Cut in 2 or 4. Lay in salted cold water to draw out any 
insects that may lurk inside. Drain thoroughly and put into 
a pot of salted boiling water. Do not cover. Boil 30 to 40 
minutes, until tender. Drain very dry in a colander, pressing 
the water out with a plate. Dress with melted butter, 
pepper, and salt, or with Cream Sauce (see receipt). 

N. B. — To avoid the unpleasant odor caused by cooking 
cabbage, use a very large pot and do not fill it too near the 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 293 

brim with the water, as it is the boiling over which causes 
the disagreeable odor. Another way of overcoming this 
trouble is also suggested, which is to put into the water 
a piece of bread tied in a fine white rag. After it has been 
15 minutes in the pot, remove it and throw it immediately 
into the fire to burn, as, in its turn, it becomes very un- 
pleasant. 

STEWED CABBAGE AND CELERY. 

Cut into shreds equal quantities of cabbage and celery. 
Lay for a few minutes in cold water, then drain and put into 
salted boiling water. Boil gently for 20 or 30 minutes, 
according to the season. Meanwhile prepare a rich Cream 
Sauce (see receipt). Drain the cabbage and celery as dry as 
possible, and stir into the cream sauce. Let it stew very 
gently for 10 minutes, and serve. Recommended. 

STEWED CABBAGE. 

Cut the cabbage like coarse cold-slaw. Add a small piece 
of red pepper (without seeds) and parboil it 10 minutes 
in salted boiling water. Drain dry. Add 3 or 4 table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, a lump of butter, and 2 large table- 
spoonfuls of stock. Cover closely and simmer gently for 
about 30 minutes, until perfectly tender. Add salt and 
pepper, and serve. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

CHOUX DE BRUXELLES. 

Pick these over carefully, rejecting all the loose, hanging 
leaves. Throw them into cold salted water for at least 1 5 
minutes to draw out any lurking insects. Have ready on 
the fire a large pot of boiling water with a little salt in it. 
Having drained the sprouts, put them into the boiling 
water. Do not put on the lid. Boil 12 to 15 or even 20 
minutes, just long enough for the sprouts to be tender all 



294 GOOD-LIVING. 

through, but by no means soft enough to go to pieces. 
Drain them. Now hold them in the colander under the 
cold-water faucet, and let the cold water dash over them, 
then drain very thoroughly, and return to a china-lined 
saucepan with a large lump of butter, pepper, and salt. Set 
on one side of the range where it will warm very gently 
without danger of burning. When well heated, serve in a 
hot dish. 

The above mode of treatment is supposed to preserve the 
color of the sprouts without using any chemicals ; its recom-_ 
mendation is that the idea comes from the native land of 
Brussels sprouts. 

CANNED VEGETABLES. 

When possible, these should always be rinsed in cold 
water, allowing the stream of water to dash over and through 
them. Then drain and dress to taste. This removes the 
taste of the tin can and freshens the vegetables. 

SUMMER SQUASH. 

It is recommended, instead of peeling and boiling white 
squash, to cut it in sections, removing the seeds and leaving 
the peel on, and bake it in the oven. Baste with butter or 
sweet drippings, and sprinkle with pepper, salt and chopped 
parsley before serving. To boil it, peel, remove the seeds, 
cut in medium-sized pieces, barely cover it with boiling 
water, and boil until tender. Dry it very thoroughly. Mash 
it through a colander ; add a large lump of butter, pepper, 
and salt, and serve. If will require about 20 minutes to boil. 

The long-necked, white, summer squash is delicious if cut 
and fried exactly like egg-plant or cucumbers. The narrow 
end is best done in this way. 

TURK'S HEAD SQUASH AU GRATIN 

Bake this as directed above ; rub the soft part through the 
colander ; mix with it a little cream, pepper, and salt. Put 



CORN PUDDING AS A VEGETABLE 295 

it into a deep dish ; cover the top with grated Parmesan and 
bread-crumbs and bake in the oven for about 10 minutes 
until nicely browned. Serve in the same dish. 

STUFFED PEPPERS. 

PIMENTS FARCIS. 



6 green sweet peppers, 


Bunch of parsley, 


Stale bread-crumbs, 


Ham, 


1 cup of stewed tomatoes, 


Salt, 


I grated onion, 


Broth. 



Cut the stems out very neatly to make the tops. Empty the 
insides of the peppers, being careful to get rid of every seed. 
Be certain the peppers are not of the hot kind, which are 
frequently sold by mistake for the sweet. (If they are hot, 
they must be laid in strong salt and water for 24 hours 
before using. This will take out some of the strong taste.) 
Make a dressing of equal bulks of ham and stale bread- 
crumbs, to which add the parsley, onion, and tomatoes. 
Chop all very fine. In seasoning, only add pepper if re- 
quired. Fill the peppers with the dressing. Cover them 
with the stems, from which you have carefully removed all 
the white part. Place them in a saucepan just large enough 
to hold them closely packed, stem end uppermost. Pour 
over broth enough to cover them a little more than £, and 
simmer very gently for i£ hours. Remove them carefully 
to a hot dish. Boil down the gravy briskly for a few min- 
utes, thickening it slightly with a pinch of corn-starch 
blended with cold water. Stir ; boil 3 minutes ; pour over 
the peppers ; serve. 

CORN PUDDING ASA VEGETA BLE. 

I dozen grated ears of corn, I cup of milk or cream, 

1 tablespoon of brown sugar, Salt to taste. 

Mix. Bake I hour. 

This is a Southern receipt and very good. 



296 GOOD-LIVING. 

BAKED GREEN-CORN PUDDING. 

12 ears of corn scored and scraped, 2 ounces of butter, 

1 pint of new milk, 2 eggs, 

Salt and pepper. 

Mix and bake 45 minutes. Use less milk if the corn 
yields a great deal. 

TO BOIL CORN. 

Strip off the husk and silk entirely ; or, strip off all the 
husk except 1 inner row of leaves, removing every thread of 
the silk. Either way is good. Have ready a large pot of 
boiling water. Never put salt into the water for boiling 
corn ; it hardens the outer coating of the grains, making 
them often shrivelled and yellow, besides being much more 
indigestible. Put the corn in the pot ; cover and boil rap- 
idly for about 20 minutes (for large-sized ears) ; then set the 
pot, with the corn in it, upon the hearth and let it stand for 
10 or 15 minutes. Then drain; strip off the leaves, and 
serve in a napkin folded to cover them. There are made, at 
present, extremely dainty, embroidered corn-cloths for this 
purpose, the shape being well designed for covering the corn 
and keeping it hot. 

CORN OYSTERS. 

2 heaping tablespoons of flour, 12 ears of corn, 

]/ 2 teaspoon of salt, 2 eggs, 

Cayenne, Butter and lard for frying. 

Score the corn and press out all the grains with the back 
of a knife ; this is much better than grating. Beat the eggs, 
whites and yolks apart, until very light. Add first the yolks 
to the corn, then the whites, salt, cayenne, and flour ; mix 
lightly and thoroughly. Have 2 tablespoonfuls of mixed 
lard and butter in the frying-pan. When very hot, drop the 
mixture into the pan by small spoonfuls. Brown I side, 
then turn with a cake-turner, and brown the other. Be sure 



EGG-PLANT BAKED WITH BREAD-CRUMBS. 2gJ 

the lard is very hot before you put in the batter, or the 
oysters will be greasy. Drain on brown paper in the mouth 
of the oven, and serve on a cut paper or folded napkin. 

CORN FRITTERS. 

Corn cut from 7 ears, I pint of milk, 

1 egg beaten together, Salt and pepper, 

Flour, Lard for frying, 

I teaspoon of baking-powder to each, cup of flour. 

Scrape the corn as described above. Mix all together, 
adding enough flour to make a rather stiff batter. Drop by 
the teaspoonful into deep boiling lard (see General Direc- 
tions for Frying). The lard should be deep enough to float 
the fritters. If they spread too much, after testing I or 2, 
add a little more flour. They should puff like doughnuts. 
Drain dry ; serve on a cut paper or folded napkin. 

N. B. — If the corn yields much milk in scraping, add 
less than designated in the receipt. 

EGG-PLANT BAKED WITH BREAD-CRUMBS. 

AUBERGINE A LA CREOLE. 

1 young and tender egg-plant, 2 onions, grated, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, Butter, 

I " " vinegar, Bread-crumbs, 

Pepper, Salt. 

Peel the egg-plant and cut it into inch dice. Put it into a 
saucepan with about i gill of boiling water. Simmer very 
gently until tender, but not entirely done, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Then throw it into a colander and drain as dry as possible, 
squeezing out the water with a saucer. Meanwhile, fry the 
onions in butter ; when the egg-plant is thoroughly drained, 
remove the saucepan and onions from the fire, and stir in 
the egg-plant, parsley, pepper, salt, and vinegar, and as much 
butter as you can spare, about 2 heaping tablespoonfuls. If 
the egg-plant has been properly dried, it will absorb the but- 



298 GOOD-LIVING. 

ter entirely. Put into a baking-dish ; cover the top with 
browned bread-crumbs and dots of butter, and bake 20 to 
25 minutes in a good oven. There should be nearly I 
quart of the stewed egg-plant for the above proportions ; 
therefore, if you have not 1 large egg-plant, use 2 or more 
smaller ones. Delicious. 

STUFFED EGG-PLANT. 

AUBERGINE FARCIE. 

Prepare exactly as Stuffed Cucumbers (see receipt), only 
do not put the sides together, but round them up with the 
stuffing. Cover the tops with bread-crumbs ; set them in a 
bake-pan, with a lump of butter and 4 tablespoonfuls of 
boiling water. Bake for about I hour, or perhaps a little 
less, until the egg-plant is tender, which fact you can ascer- 
tain by slipping a narrow knife into the inner edge of the 
egg-plant. If the oven is too quick, cover the egg-plant 
with a piece of thick paper or with a tin pie-plate until a 
few minutes before it is done. Remove the egg-plant to a 
dish and set in warm place. Put the pan on the top of the 
range ; add about 2 gills of broth ; stir, and when boiling, 
add a pinch of corn-starch blended with a little cold water. 
Stir and boil for 3 minutes, and serve in a sauce-boat with 
the egg-plant. Or, prepare the inside of the egg-plant 
according to the receipt for Baked Egg-plant ; fill the 
shells with this mixture ; cover with bread-crumbs ; dot with 
butter, and bake from 30 to 45 minutes, until the egg-plant 
is tender. Serve as an entree. 

FRIED EGG-PLANT. 

AUBERGINE FRITE. 
1 young egg-plant, 1 egg, 

Flour, Lard. 

Under this head, it is well to make an effort to dispel an 
old-fashioned idea which seems to have taken possession of 
the general mind on the subject of this vegetable. Every 
one, with scarcely an exception, will prepare an egg-plant 



STEWED CUCUMBERS. 299 

for frying by carefully cutting it into slices, and piling these, 
with salt between the layers, putting a plate and heavy 
weight on the top. It has been satisfactorily proved by ex- 
perience that this elaborate operation is perfectly unneces- 
sary. If the egg-plant is not too ripe, or not touched by 
the frost, it will never be bitter ; if, on the other hand, it is 
bitter, all the salting and all the pressing you can give it will 
not remove the bitterness. Therefore, spare yourself the 
trouble of the above-described process until you have 
proved by a counter-experience that it is indispensable. I 
have brought in an egg-plant with only time to cook it for 
the dinner, and it has been sweeter than others which have 
been under treatment for hours. The bitterness comes 
entirely from the vegetable being over-ripe or frosted. 

Pick out a young egg-plant. Do not be tempted by the 
size of the extra-large, handsome ones. They are very 
often bitter. The egg-plant should be firm and glossy pur- 
ple. Peel it, if you like. If it is very tender, it is best to 
leave the peel on, as this helps to keep the slices from break- 
ing. Cut it in slices about \ of an inch thick. Dip these 
first in beaten egg and then in flour. Have ready in the 
pan a little boiling lard. When you are certain that it is 
boiling, lay in the slices of egg-plant. Do not cook too 
quickly. In 2 or 3 minutes turn the slices with a cake- 
turner and brown on the second side. Watch it carefully, 
as it scorches very easily. Do not use butter for the frying, 
as it blackens before the egg-plant is cooked. When the 
egg-plant is tender, remove the slices with the cake-turner ; 
lay them on paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry, 
serve on an open platter. If covered, it will lose all its 
crispness and become limp. Sprinkle with salt and pepper 
and serve. 

STB WED CUCUMBERS. 

CONCOMBRES A LA CREME. 

For this mode of cooking, riper cucumbers may be used 
than for eating raw, for the coarse, hard seeds may be re- 



300 GOOD-LIVING. 

moved. Peel the cucumbers ; cut them in quarters. If old, 
remove the seeds. Lay the cucumbers in boiling water 
until transparent. Make a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt), 
to which add about \ a grated onion. When ready, drain 
the cucumbers dry and lay them in the sauce. Stew gently 
over boiling water for about 15 minutes ; then dish ; sprinkle 
chopped parsley over the top and serve. A teaspoonful of 
chopped chives added with the parsley may take the place 
of the grated onion. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS. 

CONCOMBRES FRITS. 

Cucumbers, Fine dry bread-crumbs, 

1 egg, Lard. 

The cucumbers for this may be a little riper than those to 
be eaten raw. Peel. Slice them across if large, lengthwise 
if small. Do not use any that have hard seeds. Dip first 
in egg, then bread-crumbs. Set aside in the ice-box for 1 
hour. Have ready the lard heated to boiling point (see 
General Directions for Frying). When you are certain that 
it is boiling, lay in the slices of cucumber. In about 3 min- 
utes, turn them. In about 3 minutes more, when tender, 
remove to a brown paper in the mouth of the oven. When 
dry, serve on an open platter. 

STUFFED CUCUMBERS. 

CONCOMBRES FARCIS. 

For this, use large, ripe cucumbers. Peel. Split them in 
two in length, and remove the seeds. Make a dressing as 
for Stuffed Peppers (see receipt), or a force-meat of chicken 
or veal and ham (see Force-meats). Fill the cavity left in 
the cucumbers with the dressing. Put the two sides to- 
gether again, and tie securely ; or each side may be rounded 
up with the dressing and covered with crumbs. Lay them 



CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. 301 

in a saucepan, with about 2 gills of broth. Set them where 
they will simmer very gently, for about 1 hour, until tender. 
Remove them to a hot dish. Set the saucepan over the 
fire ; add 2 gills more of broth to it ; boil down briskly for 
a few minutes. Thicken slightly with a pinch of corn- 
starch, blended with a little cold water. Stir and boil for 
2 minutes; pour it around the cucumbers, and serve. 

DRESSED CUCUMBERS. 

CONCOMBRES EN SALADE. 

Select very young cucumbers. Bury them in the ice for 
long enough to chill them thoroughly through ; or, if hur- 
ried, put them in a pan with ice and salt, with their skins on. 
Leave them until the very latest moment before using; then 
peel ; slice them just as thin as possible, and, at the moment 
of serving, add vinegar, salt, and cayenne ; add also oil, if 
liked. Do not let them stand in the dressing. If the above 
rules are strictly and literally followed, you will find that 
cucumbers are far less indigestible than is generally be- 
lieved. They should never be allowed to stand and wilt in 
the dressing. 

CUCUMBERS A LA MAITRE U HOTEL. 

CONCOMBRES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

Prepare the cucumbers as for stewing (see receipt). Drain 
dry, and return to the fire in a saucepan, with a large lump 
of butter, pepper, salt, chopped chives, and parsley. Shake 
over the fire until very hot, and serve. 

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. 

CONCOMBRES A LA POULETTE. 

Prepare as for Stewed Cucumbers (see receipt). Just be- 
fore serving, stir in the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, blended with a 
few drops of cold water and a few drops of vinegar. Do 
not boil again after the eggs are added, or the sauce will 
curdle. 



302 GOOD-LIVING. 

CUCUMBER FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE CONCOMBRES. 

Peel and slice the cucumbers as for frying. Throw boil- 
ing water over them, and scald until almost transparent. 
Drain. Wipe dry. Dip in Fritter Batter (see receipt), and 
fry in deep boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying). 
Drain on brown paper, and serve on a cut paper. The 
cucumbers, if small, may be cut lengthwise. 

RAGOUT OF CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS. 

RAGOUT DE CONCOMBRES. 

Sliced onions, Sliced cucumbers, 

I cup of water, Butter, 

I gill of stewed tomatoes, or Flour, 

I tablespoon of tomato catsup, Pepper, 
Salt. 

Fry the cucumbers and onion in butter until nicely 
browned. The cucumbers will brown better if the slices 
are lightly floured. When brown, add the water. Stew 30 
minutes. Rub together a small teaspoonful of butter and 
1 heaping teaspoonful of flour. Add to the cucumbers ; 
stir and boil 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pep- 
per. You may add, if you like, a little cold chicken or veal, 
cut into neat dice. Heat thoroughly, and serve. This is a 
very savory dish. 

SPINACH AU JUS. 
PUREE D'EPINARDS AU JUS. 

This is a dish that is so simple and easy to cook that, like 
tea or coffee, or a dozen other things of the same class, it is 
seldom done well. 

In the first place, select young and tender spinach ; if this 
is not possible, pick it over, carefully tearing off only the 
tender part of the leaf, and rejecting all the spines and 
coarse fibres. Put it on the fire, with about a cupful of 



PIE-PLANT SPINACH. 303 

boiling water to half a peck of spinach. Do not cover the 
saucepan. Let it simmer for 10 minutes. By this time it 
should be quite wilted, and that is all the cooking it re- 
quires ; more would destroy the color, and make it dry and 
tasteless. The following is a most important point in cook- 
ing spinach : when you remove it from the fire, drain it 
perfectly dry. This is where most cooks fail. Press it in a 
colander with a saucer or plate until every drop of moisture 
is pressed out. Some cooks are so energetic as to put.it into 
a cloth and wring it dry. In any case it must be absolutely 
free from that disagreeable, green spinach-water, which may 
perhaps do for coloring, but is fit for nought else. Now 
turn it into a chopping-bowl, and chop it as fine as powder. 
Then, if liked, rub it through the colander. This latter 
makes a puree, and is excellent. Now add either a few 
spoonfuls of rich gravy or meat-juice, and a large lump 
of butter, pepper, salt, and a very small pinch of sugar. 
Put it into a saucepan, and, when thoroughly hot, serve it. 
The proper consistency of spinach when dressed is, that it 
should be as soft as it can be and yet retain its shape when 
neatly arranged in a mound. It must be neither too wet 
nor too dry. Garnish with Croutons (see receipt), or with 
hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters. 

SPINACH A LA CREME. 

PUREE D'EPINARDS A LA CREME. 

Having prepared the spinach as above, substitute cream 
for the gravy, and serve. 

PIE-PLANT SPINACH. 

Take the tender parts of the leaves of the rhubarb-plant, 
rejecting all that is fibrous. Scald. Throw off this water, 
and put on fresh. Boil for a few minutes, until tender. 
Drain dry, and dress like real spinach. It cannot be dis- 
tinguished from sorrel, and is very wholesome and cooling 
in the early spring. 



304 GOOD-LIVING. 

PUREE OF SORREL. 

PUREE D'OSEILLE. 

Prepare exactly as spinach, rejecting all that is fibrous. 
After scalding as described, dry thoroughly. Chop and 
press through a colander. Dress with butter, pepper, and 
salt, or add a little gravy. Garnish with croutons and serve 
hot. The acidity of the sorrel may be modified by cooking 
it with an equal quantity of spinach. 

PUREE OF ENDIVES. 

pur£e d'endives. 

Prepare according to receipt for spinach, chopping not 
quite as fine, and dressing with butter and rich stock, or 
with a small quantity of cream sauce, which should be mixed 
all through the endives. Garnish with croutons or hard- 
boiled eggs. Serve very hot. 

PUREE OF C HICKORY. 

PUREE DE CHICOREE. 
Prepare exactly like endives or spinach. 

BEET-TOPS. 
Prepare exactly as endives, boiling longer until tender. 

TURNIP-TOPS. 
Prepare exactly as above. 

DANDELIONS. 
Prepare as above. 

KALE. 
Boil as above, only longer, until perfectly tender. Drain 
perfectly dry ; make a little Cream Sauce (see receipt), and 
when the kale is chopped quite fine, stir it into the cream 
sauce and serve as above. 



STRING-BEANS. 305 

PUREE OF LETTUCE. 

PUREE DE LAITUES. 

When your garden yields more lettuce than you can use 
as salad, there are several ways of cooking it which will be 
found very good. One of these is to prepare the lettuce 
exactly the same as spinach, only boiling much longer, until 
perfectly tender. When drained perfectly dry, finish as di- 
rected. In the heat of the summer the coarse leaves are 
often bitter ; it is best to throw them aside and use only 
what is young and tender. 

LETTUCE AU JUS. 

LAITUES AU JUS. 

Wash the heads thoroughly without breaking. Cut all of 
uniform length and tie each lightly together. Lay them 
side by side in a buttered pan. Slice -§- an onion ; lay it and 
1 bay-leaf in the pan, and half-cover the lettuce with strong 
stock. Cover the pan air-tight. Stew very gently. Or, the 
pan may be stood in a slow oven. Open it from time to 
time and add a little stock as it cooks away, but very little 
at a time. Allow about 2 hours of slow cooking in the 
oven, and frequent feeding as directed. Take them out, 
remove the strings, and lay the heads of lettuce in an even 
row on a flat dish. Set the pan again on the range ; add a 
gill of broth ; let it boil briskly for a few minutes. Thicken 
it slightly with a pinch of corn-starch blended with a few 
drops of cold water ; stir, and boil 3 minutes. Or the gravy 
may be thickened with a little Brown Roux (see receipt). 
Strain the gravy over the lettuce, and serve. 

STRING-BEANS. 

HARICOTS VERTS. 

Select very young beans to boil ; they must be fresh as 
well as young, and snap when bent. Tip and tail them, 
drawing off the strings. There are such excellent stringless 



306 GOOD-LIVING. 

beans grown now, that it seems almost a pity to waste so 
much time over those that have to be strung. Cut them, if 
broad, in halves, both in length and breadth ; if small, across 
once or twice. Throw into cold water for 30 minutes. Bring 
a kettle of water to a boil. Make it quite salt. When 
boiling rapidly, throw in the beans, which you have drained 
dry. Let them boil rapidly for 20 minutes if very young, 
longer, 30 to 45, if older. Do not put the lid on the kettle. 
When tender, drain free of all moisture. Return to the 
saucepan with a large lump of butter, a teaspoonful of vin- 
egar, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped 
as fine as powder. Set in a warm place until the butter 
is melted, and serve 

LIMA BEANS. 

Select very young beans ; the younger the better. The 
almost universal mistake is made of allowing these beans to 
fill out and grow too large. Use only very small ones, sorting 
as you shell them. The larger ones will make delicious 
soup (see Puree of Limas and Tomatoes). Throw the small 
ones into cold water. Have a large kettle of slighty-salted 
boiling water. Throw in the beans and boil 40 to 60 min- 
utes, according to their age. Drain dry. Return to the fire 
with pepper, salt, butter (and \ of an onion grated and 
fried in butter if liked), and stew for 10 or 15 minutes very 
gently. Or, drain after boiling ; add cream, butter, pepper, 
and salt, and stew 10 or 15 minutes. In either case serve 
with parsley chopped as fine as powder. 

PUREE OF RED BEANS. 

PUREE A LA CONDE. 

1 quart of dried red beans, I bay -leaf, 

1 carrot, I pound of ham, 

1 onion, I tablespoon of butter, 

X teaspoon of bi-carbonate of soda, Salt and pepper. 

Wash and soak the beans in lukewarm water overnight. 
In the morning, drain and cover with fresh cold water. 



BOSTON BAKED BEANS FOR SUNDAY BREAKFAST. 307 

Bring to a boil. Boil 1 hour. Drain again. Return to the 
fire with just enough boiling water to cover them ; add the 
baking-soda, ham, bay-leaf, carrot, and onion cut fine. Boil 
until they will mash easily under pressure, about i|- to 2 
hours longer. When tender, remove the ham, and press 
the beans, etc., through the colander. Return them to the 
kettle ; add the butter and sufficient cream to make the 
puree of the consistency of soft mashed potatoes. Season 
with salt and pepper. Serve very hot as a vegetable, or as a 
garnish for veal saute, etc. 

PUREE OF LENTILS. 

PUREE DE LENTILLES (CHANTILLY). 
Prepare exactly as above. 

PUREE OF DRIED PEAS. 

PUREE DE POIS SECS. 

Prepare exactly as above, using round, green, dried peas 
in preference to any others. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS FOR SUNDA Y BREAK- 
FAST. 

Friday night : Pick over and wash the beans and put them 
to soak. 

Saturday morning : Skim the beans out of the water and 
put into a kettle with hot water to cover them. Let them 
just come to a boil. Skim them out of the kettle into the 
bean-pot. Cut f of a pound of salt pork in strips and lay 
them on the top ; add the molasses (1 tablespoonful). Cover 
them with hot water. Put on the lid of the pot and let 
them bake in a slow oven all day. If the water dries off, 
add enough to keep them covered. Let them stand in the 
oven all night to keep warm. 

Sunday morning : Eat and enjoy. 

The bean-pot is a crock narrowed in at the mouth, and is 
supplied with a cover. It should be boiled in water with 



308 GOOD-LIVING. 

some drippings to remove the glaze before using for baked 
beans. The above old-fashioned receipt allows for I quart 
of small, dried, white beans. 

CREOLE BEANS AND BACON 

I quart of red beans, I onion, cut very fine, 

y£ pound of fine bacon, Cold water to cover, 

Pepper, Salt. 

Soak the beans overnight and cook exactly according to 
receipt for Pork and Beans. Leave the bacon in I square 
piece. When it has boiled perfectly tender, which will 
probably be before the beans, take it out ; skin and set 
aside until the beans are very tender. Place the bacon in 
the centre of a baking-dish ; drain the beans and put them 
around the bacon ; fill to the top of the beans with the 
liquor in which they boiled. Bake i£ to 2 hours, until the 
liquid is nearly all absorbed. Recommended. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. 

PUREE DE MARRONS. 

I quart of large chestnuts, I quart of stock or water, 

I tablespoon of butter, Salt and pepper. 

Shell the chestnuts, and throw into boiling water until 
the skins come off easily. Drain and skin. Put them into 
a saucepan with the stock or water; boil about 30 minutes, 
until quite soft. Press through a colander; add butter, 
pepper, and salt. It should be of the consistency of soft 
mashed potato. Return to the fire. Stir, and when very 
hot, serve. Good with veal saut£, dindonneau (turkey- 
chick), etc. 

LENTILS SAUTE WITH BUTTER. 

LENTILLES SAUTEES AU BEURRE. 

1 pint of dried lentils, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

Chopped parsley and chives, Salt and pepper. 

Soak the lentils overnight in warm water. Next day put 
them in a saucepan with lukewarm water, and simmer for 2 






CELER Y AU JUS. 309 

hours and 30 minutes ; when perfectly tender, drain. Melt 
the butter in a saucepan ; add the lentils, pepper, and salt. 
Stew gently for 15 minutes. Add 1 teaspoonful each of 
parsley and chives, chopped as fine as powder, and serve. 

SAMP. 

Select very white and evenly-cracked samp. Wash it. 
Soak it overnight in lukewarm water. Next day, throw 
that water off ; cover with fresh cold water ; bring gradually 
to a boil, and boil gently for 5 hours. As the water becomes 
absorbed, add fresh boiling water from time to time. When 
tender all through, drain off the water ; put the samp into 
the farina-kettle with milk enough to make it quite soft ; 
stew gently, with the cover off, for I hour, until the milk is 
absorbed and the samp creamy. Add a good quantity of 
salt and a large lump of butter. When the butter is melted, 
serve. 

N. B. — Be certain the samp is quite tender before the 
milk is added. 

FRIED SAMP. 

When cold (prepared as above), form into cakes ; dip in 
egg and flour, and fry in hot butter until quite brown. 
Excellent for breakfast. 

CELERY A U JUS. 

CELERI AU JUS. 

Cut the celery (if possible, without separating the stalks) 
into lengths of 6 to 8 inches. Wash carefully, not to break 
it, and clean the earth from it thoroughly. Scald it for 5 
minutes in boiling water. Line a saucepan with thin slices 
of bacon. Lay the celery on these. Mix 4 tablespoonfuls 
of Espagnole Sauce (see receipt) with an equal quantity of 
consomme or good stock. Cover air-tight. Simmer gently 
for 45 minutes. Or the saucepan may be stood in the oven 
for the same length of time. Dish the celery like asparagus ; 
skim the sauce, strain it over the celery, and serve. 



3IO GOOD-LIVING. 

CELERY-ROOT OR CELERIAC. 

CELERI-RAVE. 

Wash very thoroughly. Cut the leaves off about I inch 
from the root. If very large, divide in 4. Blanch it in 
salted boiling water for about 10 minutes. Drain dry; add 
the celeriac to a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt) ; set it over 
boiling water and stew gently until tender, about 30 minutes. 
Or, the celeriac may be sliced when scalded, and finished as 
above. It will require less time to cook. 

STEWED CELERY. 

CELERI A LA CREME. 

Wash out all the earth, and cut the celery into even pieces 
about 2 inches long. Boil in salted boiling water until 
rather tender, about 20 minutes ; then make a White Sauce 
(see receipt), using the water in which the celery has boiled 
to blend the sauce. Add an extra teaspoonful of butter or 
a little cream ; drain out the celery ; add it to the sauce ; set 
over boiling water and stew very gently until tender, about 
45 minutes in all. Keep covered. Serve hot. 

CELER Y FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE CELERI. 

Having cut the celery into 2-inch lengths and boiled quite 
tender, dip it in batter (see receipt for Clam Fritters) and 
fry as directed. Dish in a pyramid on cut paper or a folded 
napkin. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A LA CREME. 

TOPINAMBOURS A LA CREME. 

It is unfortunate that this excellent vegetable is so little 
known and appreciated in this country. It is very easy (too 
easy, the farmers think) to raise, and should be very inex- 
pensive. Wash. Boil with their skins on in salted boiling 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CHIPS. 3 1 1 

water for about 20 minutes, more or less, according to age 
and size. When tender all through, but not soft enough to 
fall in pieces, drain, peel, and mix with a rich Cream Sauce 
(see receipt) which has been prepared meanwhile. Set over 
boiling water and stew very gently for 5 to 10 minutes, and 
serve. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A U GRA TIN. 

TOPINAMBOURS AU GRATIN. 
Boil as above, and dress exactly according to the direc- 
tions for Cauliflower au Gratin. 

PUREE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

PUREE DE TOPINAMBOURS. 
Wash and skin 1 dozen artichokes ; boil until tender in 1 
pint of consomme. Drain. Press through a colander ; re- 
turn to the fire in a saucepan, with I tablespoonful of butter, 
salt, and pepper. When hot, serve with filet of beef, veal 
saut6, braised chicken, etc., etc. 

JER USA LEM A R TICHOKES BA KED. 

TOPINAMBOURS ROTIS. 

Peel and trim a dozen artichokes. Melt 1 tablespoonful 
of butter or drippings in a fire-proof dish, which can be sent 
to table ; put in the artichokes ; add salt and pepper, and 
bake for 30 minutes, basting frequently, until of a rich 
brown. Serve in the same dish. 

BRAISED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

TOPINAMBOURS BRAISES. 

Prepare as directed in the receipt for Braised Chicken 
with Jerusalem Artichokes. 

JER USA LEM A R TI CHOKE CHIPS. 

TOPINAMBOURS FRITS. 
Prepare according to receipt for Potato Chips. 



312 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRENCH OR GLOBE ARTICHOKES. 

ARTICHAUTS. 

Cut the stalk close, then, with a pair of scissors, trim 
the sharp points from the leaves, removing not more than 
£ an inch from each. Wash in cold water and vinegar, to 
draw out any lurking insects. Have ready a pot of salted 
boiling water. Lay in the artichokes, and boil very gently, 
until you can draw out a leaf easily, but do not let them go 
to pieces. Drain them upside-down until dry. Then serve 
hot with Hollandaise Sauce, or cold with Tartare Sauce, or 
with Plain French Dressing (see receipts). The time for 
boiling will vary with the size and age of the vegetable, from 
25 minutes to 1 hour. 

TO BOIL ONIONS. 

Cut a small slice from top and bottom of each onion, 
selecting white ones for the purpose. Peel them in a bowl 
under water. Put them into a china-lined saucepan, with 
boiling water to cover. In 1 5 minutes throw this water off, 
and replace it with fresh boiling water and I teaspoonful of 
salt ; boil until the onions are tender enough to pierce with 
a straw. This will require from 40 to 60 minutes for 
medium-sized onions. The very large Spanish require much 
longer. Drain. Serve with melted butter, pepper, and salt. 
The best onions for boiling are the Bermudas. 

ONIONS WITH CREAM SA UCE. 

OGNONS A LA CREME. 

Having prepared as above, boil until quite tender, but not 
entirely done. Have ready a Cream Sauce (see receipt). 
Drain the onions, and lay them in the sauce. Set on one 
side of the fire, over a kettle of boiling water {bain-marie), 
and stew gently for fully 30 minutes, until the onions begin 
to go to pieces. Young Bermuda onions prepared in this 
way are very delicate. 



GLAZED ONIONS. 313 

ONIONS BAKED AND BROWNED. 

Cut a slice from the top and bottom of each, and peel 
them in a bowl of water. Use Bermudas, if possible. Have 
ready a pot of salted boiling water; add enough milk to 
whiten the water. Put in the onions, and boil until quite 
tender, from 40 to 60 minutes. Drain. Lay them in a 
bake-pan ; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar ; 
add a little of the liquor in which the onions were boiled, 
and bake in the oven until the onions are nicely browned. 

GLAZED ONIONS. 

OGNONS GLACES. 

15 onions, I cup of consomme, 

I teaspoon of sugar, I large tablespoon of butter, 

Salt. 

Peel the onions in a bowl of water, cutting the skin not 
too close to top or bottom, lest they should go to pieces in 
cooking. Take a saucepan large enough for all the onions 
to fit in the bottom side by side. Put in the butter, and, 
when it is melted, place the onions in it. They should be 
of uniform size. Sprinkle with the sugar, and moisten with 
the consomme, which should be strong and well-flavored. 
Add salt. Cover and set on the side of the range, where 
they will stew gently for about 1 hour. By the time the 
onions are tender all through, the broth should have cooked 
down to a glaze. If not quite brown enough, uncover and 
set the saucepan in the oven for a few minutes. Remove 
the onions to a dish. Set the saucepan on the top of the 
range ; add a little fresh consomme^ ; stir it around ; boil 
and strain over the onions. The sauce may be very slightly 
thickened, when boiling, with a pinch of corn-starch, dis- 
solved in a little cold water. Stir and boil 3 minutes. Use 
the onions as a garnish for beef, veal, etc. 



314 GOOD-LIVING. 

SPANISH ONIONS BAKED. 

These are the very large, white-skinned onions. Put 
them, unpeeled, in a pot of salted boiling water, and boil 
rapidly 1 hour. Then wipe dry ; roll in greased papers 
which you twist at the 2 ends to keep in the steam, and 
bake from I to 2 hours. If very large, boil longer before 
baking. When baked, remove the papers ; peel the onions, 
and serve with butter, pepper, and salt ; or with a rich 
Brown Sauce (see receipt). 

PLAIN BOILED OKRA. 

GOMBOS. 

Cut off the stems, nearly up to the shoulder ; do not tip 
them unless the points are discolored. Put them whole 
(they should never be more than 2\ inches long for plain 
boiling) in a china-lined saucepan with salted boiling water. 
If boiled in iron, the okra will turn black. Boil 20 to 30 
minutes until perfectly tender, but do not let them break. 
Drain off the water. They are now ready to be dressed, 
according to taste. 

OKRA STEWED. 

GOMBOS SAUTES. 

Boil as above ; when drained, return to the saucepan with 
a large tablespoonful of butter, 1 of vinegar, and pepper 
and salt. Set back on the range where the butter will melt 
and stew very gently. Be careful not to boil again, once 
the okra is tender enough, or it will break. In 15 minutes, 
serve. 

OKRA AND TOMATOES STEWED. 

Peel and slice tomatoes ; slice okras crosswise, an equal 
quantity of both. Slice 2 or 3 stveet peppers, rejecting the 
seeds (beware of the hot peppers). Stew all together for I 
hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes, adding water only in case the 



SALSIFY SAUTE. 315 

vegetables become too dry, and very little then. Add a large 
lump of butter and salt ; let stand 5 minutes, and serve. A 
\ cupful of well-washed rice and small pieces of ham cut in 
dice may be added to the above. Watch that it does not 
scorch. 

OYSTER-PLANT OR SALSIFY. 

SALSIFIS. 

Scrape thoroughly and lay in cold water immediately, as 
the contact with the air will turn it black. Have ready a 
china-lined kettle of boiling water. Lay in the salsify and 
boil until tender, 1 hour, perhaps less. It may be cut in 2- 
inch lengths before boiling, if desired. When tender, drain 
quite dry and dress according to any of the following 
receipts. 

STEWED SALSIFY WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

SALSIFIS A LA CREME. 

Having boiled the salsify as directed, and cut it in 2-inch 
lengths, prepare a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt). Dish the 
salsify ; sprinkle a few drops of vinegar on every piece and 
pour over the Cream Sauce. Or, make a White Sauce (see 
receipt), adding to it a little vinegar ; lay the salsify in this; 
set over boiling water and stew 10 to 15 minutes. Serve. 
Always sprinkle finely-chopped parsley over the top. 

SALSIFY SA UTE. 

SALSIFIS SAUTES. 

1 bunch of salsify, I tablespoon of butter, 

1 tablespoon of vinegar, 1 " " chopped parsley, 

I " " mushrooms, chopped, 1 " " " chives, 

Pepper, Salt. 

Having boiled the salsify, cut it in i-inch lengths ; add all 
the other ingredients ; stew very gently for 1 5 minutes, and 
serve. 



316 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRITTERS OF SALSIFY. 

BEIGNETS DE SALSIFIS. 

Having boiled the salsify as directed, cut it in 2-inch 
lengths ; dip in batter (see Clam Fritters) ; fry in boiling 
lard (see General Directions for Frying) ; drain on brown 
paper, and serve on cut paper or a folded napkin. 

FRIED SALSIFY CAKES. 

Having boiled the salsify as directed, mash it through the 
colander and finish as directed for Parsnip Cakes (see 
receipt). 

SCALLOPED OYSTER-PLANT OR SALSIFY. 

SALSIFIS AU GRATIN. 

l]4. pounds of boiled oyster-plant, 3 ounces of butter, 

2 teaspoons of salt, % gill of milk, 

Cayenne. 

Having boiled the salsify, press it through a colander. 
Add 2 ounces of butter and all the other ingredients. Stir 
well over the fire until the butter melts. Fill a fire-proof 
baking-dish with the mixture. Stand the dish in a pan of 
hot water. Cover the top with fine bread-crumbs and the 
remaining butter in dots. Set in the oven for about 20 
minutes until brown, and serve. Celery-salt may be substi- 
tuted for part of the salt in the receipt. 

MOCK OYSTERS OF SALSIFY. 

COQUILLES DE SALSIFIS. 

Prepare as above, baking in small shells or china cases, 5 
to 8 minutes. 

CARROTS. 

Scrape and lay in cold water for 30 minutes. Put them 
down in boiling water and boil about 1 hour and 30 minutes ; 



CARROTS SAUTED. 317 

this is the time for winter carrots boiled whole. If cut in 
slices or strips, they will require less time. When tender all 
through, drain dry, and dress according to any of the fol- 
lowing receipts. 

Small summer carrots need only to be scraped, washed, 
and boiled for about 20 minutes, then dressed. 

CARROTS FRICASSEED. 

CAROTTES A LA CREME. 

Having boiled the carrots, cut them neatly in £-inch dice ; 
have ready a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt) ; stir in the car- 
rots, salt, and pepper. Set on one side and stew gently for 
15 to 20 minutes ; stir in 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 
and a little chopped chives and chervil, and serve. 

CARROTS A LA LYONNAISE. 

CAROTTES A LA LYONNAISE. 

Having boiled the carrots, cut them into even, fine dice. 
Chop an onion very fine and fry it golden-brown in a table- 
spoonful of sweet drippings and a little butter. Add the 
carrots, pepper, and salt. Mix, and when very hot add 1 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley and chervil, and serve. 

CARROTS SAUTED. 

CAROTTES SAUTES. 

Summer carrots of medium size are best for this purpose. 
Scrape and wash. Cut crosswise in very thin slices.. Pour 
boiling water over them, and when perfectly tender (10 or 
12 minutes), drain off the water. Add a large lump of but- 
ter, a good pinch of sugar, pepper, and salt. Shake occa- 
sionally until the butter melts and the carrots begin to be a 
little reddish-brown on the edges, but do not fry. Sprinkle 
with pepper, salt, parsley and chervil chopped as fine as 
powder, and serve. 



318 GOOD-LIVING. 

CARAMEL CARROTS. 

CAROTTES AU CARAMEL. 

Having boiled them as directed, cut the carrots in long, 
thin strips, like cigarettes. Put into the frying-pan a large 
lump of butter and drippings. When very hot, add the 
carrots ; sprinkle with sugar, pepper, and salt, and fry until 
the edges are well browned. Sprinkle with chopped parsley 
and serve. 

BEETS. 

BETTERAVES. 

Winter beets should be soaked overnight and boiled until 
tender, anywhere from 3 to 6 hours. Do not touch them 
with a knife until they are boiled, or their color will be de- 
stroyed. Winter beets should be peeled when cooked very 
tender, sliced and served with a lump of butter melted with 
vinegar, pepper, and salt poured over them. Or, served 
cold, sliced, with vinegar, pepper, and salt. Set them 
away for a few hours before serving in this way, for the 
vinegar to penetrate them. They will keep for some time, 
and are excellent to mix with salads, and useful as a 
garnish. 

Summer beets require less time to boil, 1 hour being 
sufficient for small ones. If very small, serve whole, peeled, 
with butter and vinegar as above ; those of medium size 
should be cut in 4. 

TO BOIL PARSNIPS. 

Scrape and lay them in cold, salted water for 20 min- 
utes. If old, peel carefully and split lengthwise. Put into 
salted boiling water, if young, for 30 to 45 minutes ; if old, 
perhaps more than 1 hour and 15 minutes. When tender, 
drain and serve dressed according to any of the following 
receipts : 



PARSNIPS SAUT&. 319 

STEWED PARSNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

PANAIS A LA CREME. 
Having boiled as directed, cut the parsnips in neat even 
pieces, and stir into a Cream Sauce (see receipt). Set on 
one side where they will cook over boiling water {bain-marie) 
very gently for 10 or 15 minutes, and serve. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE PANAIS. 

Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in long 
narrow strips like cigarettes ; dip in batter ; drop them into 
deep boiling lard, being certain that the lard is really boil- 
ing (see General Directions for Frying). When well puffed 
and golden-brown, remove with a skimmer and set on brown 
paper to drain. Fry only a few at a time. Serve in a pyra- 
mid on cut paper or a folded napkin. 

Batter for same : Mix \ of a pound of flour with the yolks 
of 2 eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, half that amount of 
pepper, \ of a grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, 
and 1 cup of water, more or less as the flour absorbs it. 
Add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The 
batter should be stiff enough to hold the drops in shape 
when dropped from the spoon. Use for parsnip or any 
other vegetable or fruit fritters. 

PARSNIPS SA UTE. 

PANAIS SAUTES. 

Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in long 
narrow strips like cigarettes. Put them into a saucepan with 
a large lump of sweet drippings or butter, and shake occa- 
sionally until the butter absorbs and the edges of the pars- 
nips become slightly browned ; do not allow them to fry 
crisp. Chop a tablespoonful of parsley as fine as powder ; 
stir it, with pepper and salt, into the parsnips, and serve. 
The parsnips will boil more quickly for the above, if cut first 
into strips. 



320 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRIED PARSNIPS. 

PANAIS FRITS. 

Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in slices 
lengthwise. Heat some drippings in the frying-pan, and 
when very hot, lay in the parsnips. Fry brown on one side ; 
turn and brown the other. Sprinkle with chopped parsley, 
pepper, and salt, and serve. 

FRIED PARSNIP BALLS. 

3 large parsnips, i tablespoon of butter, 

2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour, 

I cup rich milk, I teaspoon of salt. 

Having boiled the parsnips as directed, but a little longer, 
until very tender, drain and mash through the colander. Beat 
the eggs very light, together ; mix all thoroughly. Form 
into balls and fry in very hot butter, lard, or sweet drippings. 
Be sure the fat is boiling hot. Or, drop into deep lard like 
fritters ; or fry on the griddle. 

MASHED PARSNIPS. 

PUREE DE PANAIS. 

Having boiled the parsnips very tender, mash through a 
colander ; add a large lump of butter, pepper, salt, and milk 
enough to make a puree. Serve in a mound on a hot dish ; 
or add a little more milk and serve as a puree with veal cut- 
lets, etc. 

TO BOIL TURNIPS. 

Peel ; lay in cold salted water 30 minutes. Drain. Put 
in salted boiling water ; cover, and boil about 1 hour and 30 
minutes, or more, for whole winter turnips. 

Young turnips should be peeled and about 1 inch of the 
green top left on. Boil about I hour until tender ; the 
length of time must depend upon the size of the turnip. 
Drain dry and serve with melted butter, pepper, and salt, or 
with rich Cream Sauce (see receipt). 



GLAZED TURNIPS. 32 1 

TURNIPS BAKED WITH MUTTON. 

Boil the turnips as directed until almost tender ; if very- 
large, cut in 4 ; drain, and lay them in the pan with a roast- 
ing leg of mutton about 45 minutes before it is to be done. 
Baste frequently, and serve around the mutton. The tur- 
nips should bake until well browned and very tender. Yel- 
low turnips are best for this purpose. 

TURNIPS WITH CREAM SA UCE FOR BOILED 

MUTTON. 

NAVETS A LA CREME. 
Cut in quarters and boil as directed. When nearly ten- 
der, drain, and put them into a Cream Sauce (see receipt) ; 
stew until very soft, about 30 minutes, over boiling water. 
Serve around a boiled leg of mutton, with the sauce poured 
over. 

TURNIPS A U JUS. 

NAVETS AU JUS. 
Cut in quarters, if large, and boil as directed, until very 
tender. Drain and put into the pot with a braised leg or 
shoulder of mutton, about 45 minutes before it is to be 
served. Dish around the meat or separately. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

PUREE DE NAVETS. 
Boil as directed 4 or 5 large yellow turnips and 2 
large potatoes. When tender, drain very dry ; mash all 
through a coarse sieve. Add butter, a little cream, pepper, 
and salt. Form neatly into a mound and dot all over with 
black pepper. Or make the puree softer by adding more 
milk and butter, and serve around veal saute, etc. The ad- 
dition of potatoes is of importance. 

GLAZED TURNIPS. 

NAVETS GLACES. 
Trim the turnips of uniform size, the shape of a large 

olive. Wash in cold, salted water. Drain. Stand them 
21 



322 GOOD-LIVING. 

upright in a pan ; cover with broth, which has been boiled 
until very rich ; add a pinch of sugar. Boil 20 minutes or 
more. When tender, remove the turnips; set the sauce 
where it will cook down quickly, and, when reduced to 
a glaze, return the turnips to the pan, and cover on all sides 
with the glaze. Serve. 



TURNIPS A U GRA TIN. 

NAVETS AU' GRATIN. 

Boil in thin slices until tender ; drain and finish, according 
to directions for Cauliflower au Gratin. 

BROWNED TURNIPS. 

Peel; slice; boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain. 
Put 2 large tablespoonfuls of butter into the frying-pan ; 
when smoking hot, lay in the turnips ; sprinkle over them 
salt, pepper, and about 1 tablespoonful of soft sugar. Turn 
until well browned on both sides. Serve. 

TO MAKE A RICE BORDER. 

I cup of well-washed rice, 1 quart of stock, white is best, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Bring the stock to a boil. Having drained the rice well, 
drop it into the stock, and boil very rapidly for 1 5 minutes, 
uncovered ; then stand it over a moderate fire to steam, not 
boil, for 20 minutes longer. Drain. Season with salt and 
white pepper. Butter thoroughly the bottom and sides of 
a tin border-mould. Press the rice into this ; set it in the 
oven for 15 minutes. Remove it; loosen the edges with a 
knife ; place a hot dish upside-down over the mould ; with 
a quick movement turn both over, and remove the mould. 
Fill the centre with Curried Chicken, Fricassee, Blanquette 
of Veal, etc. 



BOILED RICE. 323 

CREOLE RECEIPT FOR BOILING RICE. 

RIZ PERLE 

Wash the rice in 3 waters ; rub it dry in a clean cloth after 
the last washing. Have ready a deep saucepan of boiling 
water ; sprinkle the rice into it. The water should be deep 
enough to allow the grains to play about freely. Do not 
cover. After boiling 20 minutes, test several grains to see 
that all are tender at the heart. If not, boil 2 or 3 minutes 
longer, about 22 minutes in all. Remove from the fire ; 
throw it into a colander. When drained perfectly dry, put 
it into a saucepan with a large lump of butter, say 1 table- 
spoonful to 1 cup of raw rice, and plenty of salt. Stand 
it where it will get as much heat as it can without scorching. 
Do not cover. Do not stir. Every now and again turn it 
lightly from the bottom with a fork, and scatter any lumps 
that form. In about forty minutes, if exposed to sufficient 
heat, the rice will be dried so that every grain stands by it- 
self. Should the rice be boiled even a little too soft, it will 
take much longer to dry. Should it look pasty, when drained, 
hold it under the cold-water faucet and let the cold water 
dash through it ; then shake dry, put into the saucepan with 
butter, and finish as above. The above receipt is one that 
has been in daily and successful use for many years. When 
well cooked, every grain should be separate and saturated 
with butter. 

BOILED RICE. 

RIZ. 

Have ready on the fire a large pot of boiling water. Wash 
the rice, and sprinkle it in. Add salt. Boil rapidly, so that 
the water tosses the grains about loosely for 25 minutes 
without touching. Then, if perfectly tender, throw it into 
the colander, and leave it over the pot of hot water to steam 
for 10 minutes. Dish and serve. Never cover it, either 
while cooking or when served. 



SALADS AND DRESSINGS. 

SIDNEY SMITH'S SALAD DRESSING. 

" Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, 
Smoothness and softness to the salad give ; 
Of mordent mustard add a single spoon, 
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon ; 
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, 
To add a double quantity of salt : 
Four times the spoon with Oil of Lucca crown, 
And twice with vinegar procured from "town"; 
True flavor needs it, and your poet begs 
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. 
Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl, 
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole. 
And, lastly, in the flavor'd compound toss 
A magic spoonful of Anchovy Sauce. 
Oh ! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat, 
'T would tempt the dying anchorite to eat. 
Back to the world he 'd turn his weary soul, 
And plunge his fingers in the Salad-bowl." 

MA YONNAISE SA UCE. 
See Sauces. 

REMOULADE SAUCE. 
See Sauces. 

VINAIGRETTE. 

See Sauces. 

324 



DRESSING FOR COLD-SLAW. 325 

MUSTARD DRESSING. 

1 teaspoon of dry mustard, 3 or 4 drops of boiling water, 

2 gills of olive oil, Vinegar, 

Salt and pepper, 1 yolk of egg may be added, if desired. 

Blend the mustard first with the boiling water, and work 
it up to a sticky paste ; you may require 1 or 2 drops more 
than indicated above, but, if so, add them very carefully, as 
it is easy to use too much water. Then begin to add the 
oil, drop by drop at first ; more boldly after a few minutes. 
Every time there is any appearance of " cracking " or curd- 
ling, add a few drops of vinegar, and work briskly until it 
smooths out again. The quantity of oil is only approxi- 
mate, for, after a little experience of the management of it 
and the vinegar, it will be found that the same amount of 
mustard can be made to hold more oil. This dressing is 
a general favorite for celery salad, fish salad, tomatoes, 
etc., etc., and deservedly so, as it is much more reliable 
than the mayonnaise, which it closely resembles in appear- 
ance. With plenty of patience, and management in the 
alternate use of the vinegar and oil, it is certain to succeed 
where, especially in summer, mayonnaise fails, often unac- 
countably. This dressing, if made in larger quantity, can 
be kept in a glass jar on ice for 1 or even 2 weeks. If the 
oil separates at all, it can always be rubbed smooth again 
with a few drops of vinegar. Recommended. 

DRESSING FOR COLD-SLA W. 

1 tablespoon of dry mustard, }4. teaspoon of salt, 
]4. teaspoon of sugar, 2 gills of warm water, 

2 eggs, 1 gill of vinegar, 

1 scant gill of oil, cream, or melted butter. 

Mix together sugar, salt, mustard, and water ; stir smooth 
and add the oil. Set over the fire and boil up once, stirring 
steadily. Remove from the fire and beat it into the eggs, 
which are already beaten together in a bowl. Return the 
sauce to the fire, setting it over boiling water. Stir until 
smooth and thick, then add the vinegar. When cold, use for 
slaw, cold meats, etc. This is a very old-fashioned receipt. 



326 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 

i tablespoon of vinegar, 3 tablespoons of best olive oil, 

X saltspoon of pepper, )/ 2 saltspoon of salt. 

Mix well together in a cup and pour over the salad at the 
last moment ; mix through and serve. Be careful not to 
crush the lettuce in mixing. The proportion of vinegar 
varies with the salad to be dressed, lettuce and doucette 
(corn-salad) requiring very little, while others require even 
more than the above allowance. If the dressing is mixed 
upon the salad, add the ingredients in the following order : 
First pour over the oil. Mix. Then put into the spoon the 
vinegar ; add to it the salt and pepper ; mix these in the 
spoon until dissolved, then sprinkle over the salad ; mix and 
serve. Observe this rule, and you will find that it makes a 
great difference in the excellence of the salad. 

LETTUCE SALAD. 

SALADE DE LAITUES. 

To crisp the lettuce, take a pan of cold water, dip the 
lettuce into it, holding the root in the hand. Dip it in 3 or 
4 times, then shake it out well. If you have one, use a 
salad-basket to dry the lettuce. Pick over the lettuce care- 
fully to see that it is perfectly clean, stripping off the larger 
leaves, and leaving the heart intact. Lay all in a thin, clean 
towel ; fold it up loosely and set in the ice-box until required. 

N. B. — Handle it as little and as lightly as possible. Dress 
it at the last moment with plain French Dressing (see 
receipt). It must not stand after being mixed, or it will 
wilt. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. 

SALAD OF ENDIVES. 

SALADE D'ENDIVES. 

1 pint of endives, French Dressing, 

1 teaspoon of chervil, chopped very fine. 

Crisp the endives as described (see Lettuce Salad). When 
ready to serve, add chervil and dressing. Mix. Do not let 
it stand or it will wilt. 



SALAD OF CRESS, PEPPER-GRASS, AND CHERVIL. 327 

CHICORY SALAD. 

SALADE DE CHICOREE. 
Prepare exactly as Salad of Endives. 

ESCAROLE SALAD. 

SALADE D'ESCAROLE. 
Prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt). 

ROMAINE SALAD. 

SALADE ROMAINE. 
Prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt). 

FETTICUS OR CORN-SALAD. 

SALADE DOUCETTE. 

Pick over every leaf carefully. Prepare exactly as directed 
for Lettuce Salad (see receipt). 

WA TER-CRESS SALAD. 

SALADE DE CRESSON. 

Pick over every sprig carefully. Prepare exactly as Let- 
tuce Salad (see receipt). 

DANDELION SALAD. 

SALADE DE CHICOREE SAUVAGE. 

Wash carefully and prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see 
receipt). 

SALAD OF CRESS, PEPPER-GRASS, AND CHERVIL. 

Wash and pick over carefully ; mix equal quantities and 
prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt). Mustard- 
grass may be added in season. This is a delicious, fresh 
salad for early spring, the grasses being better when grown 
under glass. 



328 GOOD-LIVING. 

CUCUMBER SALAD. 

SALADE DE CONCOMBRES. ,.„ 
See Dressed Cucumbers, chapter on Vegetables. 

CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD. 

Prepare the cucumbers as directed for Dressed Cucum- 
bers. Add an equal bulk of sliced Bermuda or Spanish 
onions. Mix with a lump of ice, French Dressing, and cay- 
enne, and serve immediately. 

SALAD OF STRING-BEANS. 

HARICOTS VERTS EN SALADE. 

I pint of cold boiled beans, French Dressing, 

I teaspoon each of parsley and chervil, chopped as fine as powder. 

Select very young and tender beans ; boil as directed (see 
Vegetables). Put them with the parsley and chervil in the 
salad-bowl. Add the dressing, a dash of cayenne, a tea- 
spoon of tarragon or Maille vinegar ; mix and serve. This 
salad will not be injured by being set in the ice-box for I 
hour before serving. Serve very cold. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD. 

ASPERGES EN SALADE. 
I pint of asparagus tips, French Dressing. 

Boil the Asparagus Tips as directed (see receipt). When 
cold add the dressing. Mix. Let stand I hour. Serve 
very cold. 



OKRA SALAD. 329 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD. 

CHOU-FLEUR EN SALADE. 

1 pint of cold boiled cauliflower, 1 teaspoonful of chervil, chopped as fine as 

1 teaspoon of parsley, chopped as powder, 

fine as powder, I teaspoon of tarragon or Maille vinegar, 

French Dressing. 

Boil the cauliflower as directed (see receipt). Separate the 
flowerets. Mix with them parsley, chives, and dressing. Set 
aside 1 hour. Serve very cold. 



SALAD OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

SALADE DE TOPINAMBOURS. 

I pint of cold boiled artichokes, 1 teaspoonful of tarragon or Maille 

1 teaspoonful of parsley, chopped vinegar, 

as fine as powder, 1 teaspoonful of chervil, chopped as 

French Dressing, fine as powder. 

Boil the artichokes (see receipt). When cold, peel, cut in 
quarters. Add parsley, chives, and dressing. Mix. Set 
aside 1 hour or more. Serve very cold. 



OKRA SALAD. 

SALADE DE GOMBOS. 

50 cold boiled okras, 1 or 2 sprigs of chives, chopped 
I teaspoon of parsley, chopped as fine as powder, 

fine as powder, 1 teaspoon of tarragon or Maille 
1 teaspoon of chervil, chopped as vinegar, 

fine as powder, French Dressing, 
Cayenne. 

Boil as directed (see receipt). When cold, mix with the 
dressing and herbs. Set aside 1 hour and serve very cold. 



330 GOOD-LIVING. 

SALAD OF DO UCE TTE, CELER Y, A ND BEE TS. 

Prepare equal quantities of Doucette (corn salad) and Celery 
(see receipts), and \ the bulk of celery in pickled beets cut 
fine. Mix. Add Sydney Smith's Salad Dressing. When 
all the ingredients are cold, mix thoroughly and serve imme- 
diately. Highly recommended. 

SALAD OF CELERY, CABBAGE, AND BEETS. 

Prepare equal quantities of Celery and Cold-Slaw (see 
receipts) and \ the bulk of celery in pickled beets cut fine. 
Mix. Set away in the ice-box. Add a Remoulade Sauce or 
Sydney Smith's Salad Dressing (see receipts) ; mix well, let 
stand not more than 10 minutes. Serve very cold. Highly 
recommended. 

RED BEAN SALAD. 

I pint of cold boiled red beans, Vinaigrette Sauce. 

Boil the beans very slowly, until perfectly tender, adding 
a gill of cold water from time to time. When cold, mix with 
a Vinaigrette (see Sauces). Add cayenne, and tarragon or 
Maille vinegar to taste. The dressing should be very highly 
seasoned. 

CELERY SALAD. 

SALADE DE CELERI. 
i pint of white celery washed and crisped, French Dressing. 

Cut the celery in I inch lengths. Add the dressing ; mix. 
Do not let stand more than 10 or 15 minutes or the celery 
will wilt. It should be crisped exactly as directed for let- 
tuce ; never allow it to lie in the water or it will become water- 
soaked (see Lettuce Salad). 



TOMATO SALAD. 33 1 

CELERY MA YONNAISE. 

MAYONNAISE DE CELERI. 
1 pint of celery washed and crisped, Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Prepare the celery as above. Mix the Mayonnaise (see re- 
ceipt) with it. Arrange neatly and garnish tastefully. It is 
recommended strongly to use the receipt for Mustard Dress- 
ing in preference to Mayonnaise. 

COLD SLAW {OLD-FASHIONED). 

1 pint of cut cabbage, Cold-slaw dressing. 

Do not chop the cabbage, but cut it across the head in 
shreds as fine and thin as possible. Throw it into cold water 
for 10 minutes. Drain and crisp as directed for lettuce. 
Pour over sufficient Cold-Slaw Dressing (see receipt) to 
moisten well, and serve. 

COLD SLA W. 

I pint of cut cabbage, French Dressing, 

I large tablespoon of tomato catsup, Cayenne. 

Wash and crisp as above. Mix with the dressing. Do 
not allow it to stand more than 10 minutes, and serve very 
cold. Recommended. 

TOMATO SALAD. 

SALADE DE TOMATES. 
1 pint of sliced tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Peel the tomatoes with a sharp knife. Never under any 
circumstance scald the skin off for salad ; it gives the fruit a 
half-cooked, sodden appearance, and destroys its quality. It 
may take a little more time and trouble to peel them as 



332 GOOD-LIVING. 

described, but it is indispensable. When the tomatoes are 
peeled, set them whole near the ice until very cold. When 
required, slice \ of an inch thick. Mix with the dressing, ad- 
ding i large tablespoonful more of vinegar and I teaspoonful 
of tarragon or Maille vinegar in place of I of the tablespoon- 
fuls of oil called for by the receipt. Add a dash of cayenne. 
Mix. Do not allow the salad to stand more than 20 minutes. 
Serve very cold. 

MA YONNAISE OF TOMA TOES. 

TOMATES EN MAYONNAISE. 

8 whole tomatoes, I head of lettuce crisped, 

Mayonnaise. 

Prepare the tomatoes as described for Tomato Salad, put- 
ting them whole upon the ice. Let them get very cold. 
Prepare a Mayonnaise, if liked. It is strongly recommended 
to use in preference to Mayonnaise, a Mustard Sauce (see 
receipt), to which add the yolk of 1 egg. When ready to 
serve, hollow out a small place from the top of each tomato 
(they should be of uniform size and shape) ; set the tomatoes 
upon a flat dish. Arrange around them the pale green 
leaves of the lettuce ; fill the hollow in each tomato with 
dressing, and serve very cold. This is an extremely pretty 
dish, easy of execution, and will be found particularly good if 
the Mustard Sauce is used as above. 

SALAD OF WHITE BEANS. 

1 pint of cold boiled white beans, 2 tablespoons of smoked herring, 
i tablespoon of finely-chopped chives, shredded fine, 
i tablespoon of finely-chopped chervil, I tablespoon finely-chopped pars- 
Tarragon vinegar, ley, 
Vinaigrette sauce, Cayenne. 

Boil the beans as directed for Red Bean Salad (see 
receipt). When cold add all the other ingredients; mix; 
set in the ice-box for 2 hours. Serve very cold. 



SALAD A LA DEMIDOFF. 333 

RUSSIAN SALAD. 

SALADE RUSSE. 

3 tablespoons each of : turnips, carrots, I heaping teaspoon of chervil, 

beets, cauliflower, green peas, flage- chopped as fine as powder, 

olet beans, Plain French Dressing, 

1 teaspoon of parsley, chopped as I extra tablespoon of vinegar, 

fine as powder, tarragon or Maille. 

The cold boiled vegetables should be cut into small, even 
pieces with a fancy vegetable-cutter, if possible. They 
should be well drained and iced. Arrange the different col- 
ors in a round dish, starting from the centre, like rays, 
red, white, green, 2 of each. If 8 sections are preferred, 
add 2 more white, repeating those given, or using Jerusalem 
artichokes and potatoes. The proper thing to use for the 
central point is the lower part of the French globe arti- 
choke (fonds d'artichauts) ; but as this is not always ob- 
tainable, it may be replaced by a pretty, pale-green lettuce 
heart. Mix the dressing ; pour it over the salad ; set away 

2 hours ; add the heart of lettuce at the last moment, and 
serve very cold. This is a pretty dish for supper, and is 
good served with cold game. 

The above dressing may be replaced by Mustard Sauce, 
colored with a little spinach-juice. 

SALAD A LA DEMIDOFF. 

Cold boiled potatoes, sliced, Truffles, sliced, 

Cold boiled button onions, Stoned olives. 

Rub the salad-bowl with olive oil. Lay in alternate layers 
of cold potatoes (which have been boiled in their skins and 
only peeled when cold), and sliced truffles, finishing with 
truffles. Around the outer edge, put a circle of very small 
white button onions, alternated with olives, stoned. Dress 
with French Dressing, substituting white wine for vinegar, 
if preferred. Set in the ice-box 2 hours before serving. 
None but the best truffles should be used. 



334 GOOD-LIVING. 

SIMPLE POTATO SALAD. 

SALADE DE POMMES DE TERRE. 

1 pint of cold boiled potatoes, sliced, i teaspoon of finely-chopped chervil, 

2 tablespoons of pickled beet, cut fine, I " " " chives, 
I tablespoon of shredded smoked her- or onion-juice, 

ring, I teaspoon of capers, 

i tablespoon of shredded anchovy, I saltspoon of salt, 

1 large tablespoon of tomato catsup, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, 

2 tablespoons of vinegar, 2 " " ice-water, 

I teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon mushroom catsup, 

1 " " finely-chopped parsley, Pepper as required. 

Use potatoes which have been boiled with their skins on 
and peeled when cold. Do not fail to do this, as they slice 
much more neatly. Add all the ingredients ; mix well, and 
set in the ice-box for 2 hours. This salad is recommended ; 
it is called " simple," to distinguish it from the orthodox 
Potato Salad, which is said to contain 32 ingredients. 

SALAD OF LENTILS. 

SALADE DE LENTILLES. 
Prepare exactly as for Red Bean Salad (see seceipt). 

CHICKEN SALAD WITH LETTUCE. 

MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE. 

I pint of cold boiled chicken, 2 gills of Mayonnaise Sauce, 

1 head of lettuce, crisped, French Dressing. 

Cut the chicken in small dice ; do not chop it for this 
salad. Pour over it half the quantity given for French 
Dressing ; let it stand for several hours in the ice-box. 
When ready to serve, put the chicken in a neat mound in 
the salad-bowl ; arrange the lettuce around, and spread the 
Mayonnaise (see receipt) over it. Put the heart of the let- 
tuce in the centre. Garnish with olives, strips of beet, 
pickles, capers, hard-boiled eggs, etc., according to taste. 






VEAL SALAD. 335 

CHICKEN AND CELERY SALAD. 

1 pint o f cold chicken, cut in dice, I pint of celery, cut in pieces, 

2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, French Dressing. 

Mix the chicken as described above with French Dressing, 
of which use I tablespoonful of oil instead of 3. Set away 
for several hours in the ice-box. When ready to serve, mix 
the celery with the chicken ; arrange it in a neat mound ; 
cover with Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing (see receipts) ; 
edge with the white celery leaves, and garnish as above. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Lettuce or celery (1 pint), French Dressing, 

1 scant pint of chicken, cut fine, 1 gill of grated bread-crumbs, 

2 gills of Mustard Dressing or Mayonnaise. 

Mix together the chopped chicken, crumbs, and French 
Dressing. When ready to serve, add the Mustard Dressing 
(see receipt) and celery or lettuce as above. 

TURKE Y OLIO. 

I pint of turkey, chopped fine, I pint of celery, cut fine. 

French Dressing, 

Mix together turkey, celery, and dressing, Set in the ice- 
box for 1 hour. Add a little more vinegar than directed for 
plain dressing, and a pinch of cayenne. This is a delicious 
dish. 

VEAL SALAD. 

MAYONNAISE DE VEAU. 

1 pint of tender cold veal, cut in dice, French Dressing, 

2 gills Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, 1 head crisped lettuce. 

Put the veal in the salad-bowl, mixed with the French 
Dressing. Set it in the ice-box for 1 hour. Arrange it in a 
neat mound. Cover with Mayonnaise, and garnish with let- 



336 GOOD-LIVING. 

tuce. The Mayonnaise may be replaced by a larger quantity 
of French Dressing or by Mustard Dressing. Add a dash 
of tarragon vinegar and a pinch of cayenne. It is further 
improved by the addition of a crust of stale bread rubbed 
with onion 01 garlic, and mixed through the salad. This 
cliapon improves the delicate flavor of the salad. 

BOUIILI SALAD. 

SALADE DE BOUILLI. 

I pint of cold boiled beef, 6 hard-boiled eggs, 

I teaspoon of chopped chives or Cayenne, 

grated onion, Tarragon vinegar, 

I tablespoon chopped parsley, Remoulade or Vinaigrette Sauce. 

Do not chop the beef too fine, rather cut it in small dice. 
Cut the eggs up in the same way ; add parsley, chives. Pour 
over the sauce (see receipts). Add a dash of cayenne and 
extra vinegar to taste. Mix and set away for at least I hour 
before serving. Excellent. 

MA YONNAISE OF SWEETBREADS. 

MAYONNAISE DE RIS DE VEAU. 

1 pair of large sweetbreads, i head of lettuce, 

2 gills of Mayonnaise, I teaspoon of tarragon vinegar. 

Clean and boil the sweetbreads as directed, for 20 minutes 
(see receipt). When cooked, remove all skin and fibres and 
set away to cool. Then cut them into small, even dice. 
Crisp the lettuce (see receipt). Make the Mayonnaise (see 
receipt) in a soup-plate, the bottom of which you have 
rubbed with the cut side of half an onion. Add a little 
tarragon vinegar. Mix the Mayonnaise with the sweet- 
breads ; arrange them in a mound in the salad-bowl, sur- 
rounded by a row of lettuce leaves. If a stronger flavor of 
onion is liked, cut a small crust of bread, rub it all over with 
onion, and mix it through the sweetbreads. This chapon 
must of course not be served. Garlic may be used instead 
of onion for the latter. 






HARD-BOILED EGG SALAD. 337 

SARDINE SALAD. 

SALADE DE SARDINES. 

Skin and quarter the fish. Finish as directed for Shad- 
Roe Salad. 

SCALLOP SALAD. 
See receipt in chapter on Shell-Fish. Highly recommended. 

LOBSTER MA YONNAISE. 

MAYONNAISE DE HOMARD. 

1 pint of cold boiled lobster meat, I head of crisped lettuce, 

2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dress- All the fat, both green and red, of the 

ing, lobster. 

Cut the lobster meat in f inch dice. Put it into a bowl, 
and set it on the ice. Make a Mayonnaise, or a Mustard 
Dressing, adding to the latter the yolk of an egg. Into this 
sauce mix every atom of fat, rubbed to a smooth paste. 
Add i teaspoonful of tarragon or Maille vinegar, if you can 
do so without thinning the sauce too much. Have your 
curled lettuce well crisped (see receipt). Separate the leaves. 
Having mixed together the lobster and dressing, fill each 
curled leaf with about 2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture, as a 
cup. Arrange tastefully on a flat dish, and serve very cold. 
This is not only very pretty, but delicious. 

HARD-BOILED EGG SALAD. 

CEUFS DURS EN SALADE. 
6 or 8 hard-boiled eggs, Remoulade or Vinaigrette Sauce. 

Boil the eggs (see receipt). Slice them. Arrange neatly 
on a. dish with either sauce (see receipt) poured over. Set in 
the ice-box at least I hour before serving. 



338 GOOD-LIVING. 

MA YONNAISE OF SALMON. 

MAYONNAISE DE SAUMON. 

Boil 2 salmon steaks as directed (see Boiled Salmon). 
Flake the fish. Heap it in a salad-bowl, having mixed it 
with French Dressing. Set it in the ice-box. When ready 
to serve, cover with Mayonnaise or with Mustard Dressing 
(see receipts) ; garnish with crisp lettuce leaves, hard-boiled 
eggs, pickled beets, olives, etc., to taste. Serve cold. 

SALMON WITH MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

SAUMON, SAUCE MAYONNAISE. 

This makes a very handsome dish for supper. Select 
a fine large salmon ; boil as directed (see receipt). When 
boiled, place between 2 dishes and set away to cool, with a 
little of the fish-stock poured over to keep it moist. Make 
2 or 3 times the quantity of Mayonnaise indicated in the 
receipt. When ready, dish the fish carefully on a long fish- 
dish ; spread the Mayonnaise over the entire fish ; garnish it 
tastefully with sliced lemon, crisped lettuce leaves, pickled 
beets, hard-boiled eggs, and olives. Set in a very cold place 
until ready to serve. 

SHAD-ROE SALAD. 

1 pair of shad-roes, I teaspoon of salt, 

2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, Onion. 

Wash the roes. Put them into a saucepan with the salt 
and boiling water to cover. Boil very gently 20 minutes. 
Remove ; drain ; set away to cool. When cold, cut in dice. 
Make the Mayonnaise (see receipt) in a plate, the bottom 
and sides of which have been rubbed with the cut side of an 
onion. Set it in the ice-box until wanted. Crisp the lettuce 
(see receipt). When ready to serve, arrange the shad-roes in 
a salad-bowl ; cover with the dressing ; arrange the lettuce in 



SHRIMP SALAD. 339 

a circle around, and serve. If the flavor of onion is liked, 
add to the salad a diapon as described in Mayonnaise of 
Sweetbread ; garlic may be used instead of onion. 

CRAB SALAD. 
See receipt for same in chapter on Shell-Fish. 

SHRIMP SALAD. 

SALADE DE CREVETTES. 

Boil the shrimps in salted boiling water until the shells 
turn pink. When cold, remove the meat from the shells 
without breaking it. When very cold, add to every pint of 
shrimp-meat 2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing. 
Have ready a head of crisp, curled lettuce. Arrange the 
mayonnaise of shrimps in the separated lettuce leaves, put- 
ting about 2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture into each leaf, as 
in a shell ; arrange the leaves tastefully on a flat dish and 
serve very cold. Lobster, crab, or other mayonnaise may be 
served in the same way ; it is no more trouble, and makes a 
very much prettier dish. 




SAVORY RELISHES. 



WELSH RARE-BIT. 

2 cups of grated cheese, 2 eggs, yolks only, 

1 gill of milk or porter, Salt and cayenne to taste. 

Cut thin, square slices of bread ; remove the crusts and 
toast them. While hot, butter generously, and moisten with 
a few teaspoonfuls of boiling water. Keep them hot while 
the rare-bit is being prepared. Stand the milk (wine or 
porter) in a china-lined saucepan over a moderate fire ; when 
boiling, add the cheese (fresh American cheese is best) ; stir 
constantly until the cheese is entirely dissolved. Add cay- 
enne and salt. Have the yolks of eggs beaten to a cream. 
Stir them rapidly into the cheese, and pour immediately 
over the hot toast. Serve quickly on a hot-water plate or 
very hot dish, as standing spoils it. If the cheese is not very 
rich, add a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Beer, ale, 
or porter should always accompany Welsh rare-bit. 

Note. — Should the rare-bit be stringy, it is due to the fact 
of the cheese not being sufficiently rich. 

GOLDEN BUCK. 

2 cups of grated cheese % teaspoon of made mustard, 
% teaspoon of salt, Cayenne, 
6 poached eggs, 6 squares of buttered toast, 

I cup of milk, red wine, or porter. 

Prepare the toast as for Welsh Rare-bit. Bring the milk 
(wine or porter) to a boil in a china-lined saucepan ; add the 
cheese, mustard, salt, and cayenne. Stir continually until 
the cheese is dissolved. Pour it on the hot toast. Mean- 
while, poach the eggs (see receipt). Put an egg on the top 
34° 



TOASTED CHEESE. 34 1 

of each piece of toast ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; serve 
very hot as above directed. Do not let it stand a minute. 
Beer, ale, or porter should be served at the same time. 

CHEESE STRAWS. 

1 cup of grated cheese, 1 cup of flour, 

Butter, size of an egg, Cold water, 

Cayenne. 

Mix together the flour and cheese ; add cayenne, then 
butter ; add enough cold water to make a paste ; roll out 
thin ; cut in strips \ inch wide by 7 inches long, and bake. 
They will take a very few minutes to bake if the oven is hot. 
Serve, when cold, tied in a bunch with a fresh ribbon. 

CHEESE FONDU. 

}i pound of sifted flour, 3 eggs, 

Y% " grated Gruyere and Parmesan, }i pound of butter, 

mixed, 1 gill of milk or cream, 

Pinch of grated nutmeg, Salt and pepper. 

Melt the butter ; stir in the flour and mix thoroughly. 
Add the boiling milk ; stir and boil for about 2 minutes until 
very thick. Remove from the fire. When slightly cooled, 
work in the yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cheese. 
Mix thoroughly. Have ready buttered I pudding-dish or 
several small souffle-cases. Beat the whites of eggs to a very 
stiff froth ; beat them into the mixture ; fill the dish § full 
of the mixture and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 
about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve immediately. This dish 
must not stand. 

TOASTED CHEESE. 

1 cup of grated cheese, I gill of cream, 

Cayenne, 1 yolk of egg, 

Butter, the size of a hickory-nut. 

Have ready neatly trimmed, very small pieces of buttered 
toast cut in squares or circles. Melt the cheese slowly in the 



342 GOOD-LIVING. 

boiling cream over the fire ; when hot, remove ; stir in the 
yolk of egg and butter. Put the toast on a hot-water dish ; 
spread the cheese over the toast and serve immediately, or 
it will toughen. The dish may be placed before the fire to 
let the cheese toast before serving. Excellent for luncheon 
or supper. 

CHEESE SALAD. 

Yz pound of grated cheese, i tablespoon of olive oil, 

I teaspoon of salt, I hard-boiled egg, 

I " of sugar, %. saltspoon of cayenne, 

i tablespoon of onion or Maille vinegar, i teaspoon of made mustard. 

Rub together to a paste the yolk of egg and oil ; add, first, 
salt, then pepper, sugar, mustard ; when well mixed, add the 
cheese. Mix again. Add vinegar. Serve in crab-shells or 
in small china cases. Eat with biscuits and butter. One 
cup of cold minced chicken may be added as an improve- 
ment. Good for luncheon and supper. 

N. B. — The above is considered to have the flavor of crab- 
salad, and is sometimes called Mock Crab Salad. 

SARDINES ON TOAST WITH CHEESE. 

Prepare thin slices of crisp, buttered toast. Drain the oil 
from the sardines ; skin and split them. Lay them on the 
toast. Set in the oven until thoroughly hot, but be careful 
not to let the toast dry too much. The sardines may first 
be given a thin coating of grated Parmesan. Serve immedi- 
ately on a hot-water plate. Good for supper. 

DEVILLED BISCUIT WITH CHEESE. 

Take some Bent's water crackers, or other water bis- 
cuits ; split them ; butter each half generously ; sprinkle 
over it a layer of cheese ; set these in a baking-pan. Dust 
over with cayenne, and set in a quick oven for about 5 min- 
utes. As soon as the cheese is melted, serve very hot. 
Excellent for supper. 



BOMB A Y TOAST. 343 

PLAIN DE VILLED BISCUIT. 

Split biscuit as above ; butter thickly ; season with cay- 
enne ; set in a biscuit-pan in a quick oven until nicely 
browned. Serve immediately for luncheon or supper. 

ANCHOVY TOAST. 

Make thin, evenly-browned slices of toast, from which 
remove the crust. Butter thickly ; spread lightly with an- 
chovy-paste ; set for 1 minute in the open oven and serve 
immediately on a hot-water plate for luncheon or supper. 

INDIAN SANDWICHES. 

Prepare thin slices of bread as for toast. Cut them round 
with a sharp tin cutter. Fry as Croutons (see receipt). Take 
some very finely-minced chicken ; mix with it an equal quan- 
tity of ham or tongue ; stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of thick White 
Sauce (see receipt), in which have been blended curry-pow- 
der, and lemon-juice to taste. Warm in a stewpan. Place 
a spoonful of the mixture between every 2 slices of toast. 
Arrange on a folded napkin or cut paper and serve hot. 

N. B. — -The filling should be of the consistency of soft 
paste ; it must not run. Very good for luncheon or supper. 

SCOTCH WOODCOCK. 

Chop 2 hard-boiled eggs fine ; put them into a saucepan 
with 1 tablespoonful of butter melted with 2 of anchovy 
sauce. When dissolved, serve on small rounds of buttered 
toast neatly arranged on a hot-water plate. Do not boil, but 
heat thoroughly. 

BOMB A Y TOAST. 

Put a large spoonful of butter in a saucepan over boiling 
water ; as it melts, stir in 2 eggs, cayenne, essence of anchovy, 
and a few chopped capers. Stir until the eggs begin to set. 
Spread on small rounds of buttered toast. Serve on a hot- 
water plate as above. 



344 GOOD-LIVING. 

SALTED ALMONDS. 

Select the best paper-shelled almonds. Remove the shells. 
Put them in a bowl. Pour boiling water over them and let 
stand for 15 or 20 minutes. By that time the skins will slip 
off easily. Skin them. Lay the almonds on a tin pie-plate 
without drying them. Sprinkle thickly with salt and turn 
them over that the salt may touch all sides. Place them in 
a moderately-hot oven, shaking occasionally, and turning the 
pan, if one side browns quicker than the other. When golden 
brown, remove them from the oven. Pick out the almonds 
and throw aside the extra salt that remains. 

Some authorities advocate dipping first in white of egg, 
then in salt ; but experience of this method has shown that 
the almonds take up too thick a coating of salt to be 
agreeable. 

A great addition to the above receipt is to put I teaspoon- 
ful of olive oil to 1 cupful of shelled almonds, which have 
been dried in a cloth. Let each nut receive its coating of 
the oil ; then add about I heaping teaspoonful of salt, and 
finish as above. Almonds prepared according to this last 
method are delicious. 




ORDER OF SERVICE OF A DINNER. 

As it does not enter into the plan of the present work to give 
a list of menus, it may not be amiss to give a general outline of 
the proper order of service of dinner, (see below) leaving the 
hostess to select the dishes. One suggestion offered is, that, 
in the composition of a menu repetition should be avoided ; 
do not allow any two white sauces, or brown sauces, any two 
fried meats, or fried fish and meat, to follow each other so closely 
as to be noticeable. It is advisable, also, to select such dishes 
as the cook is perfectly familiar with ; that, when required 
to give her attention to the entertainment of her guests, the 
hostess may not be preoccupied with fears of how Bridget may 
see fit to interpret some new receipt. Again, do not attempt 
too complicated or lengthy a menu, for it is not quantity 
which makes a successful dinner, but quality, tasteful arrange- 
ment and garnishing, and neat, orderly service. 

Form of menu for 6 or 8 persons : 

Raw Oysters or Clams. 

Soup, such as Consomme or Bisque, etc. 

Hors d'CEuvre ; Olives, Radishes, Celery. 

Fish, such as Sheepshead, Sauce Hollandaise, with Potatoes au Court Bouillon. 

I or 2 Entrees, such as Croquettes, Vol-au-vent, Sweetbreads ; or, 

Filets Mignons, Salmi, etc., etc. 

Vegetable, such as Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce, Celery au Jus, etc. 

Roast, such as Saddle of Mutton, with vegetable, such as green peas. 

Game and Salad. 

Dessert ; Ices, Cakes, etc., etc. 

Coffee and Liqueurs. 

N. B. — Should Game not be used, serve the Salad with the Roast in place of 
the vegetable there mentioned. Should cheese be used, serve after dessert. 

For a dinner of 1 2 or more persons there may be added to 
the above a Bouch6 of some kind after "the Hors d CEuvre ; 

345 



346 



GOOD-LIVING. 



and, if liked, Roman Punch may be served between the 
Roast and Game. If 2 soups should be required for a large 
dinner, let one be a clear Consomme or Bouillon, the other 
a Bisque or Puree. For the family dinner, the above may, of 
course, be modified according to requirements. 




RELISHES FOR BREAKFAST. 

The following suggestions are offered as an assistance 
in ordering breakfast. The receipts will be readily found 
by reference to the index. The receipts for cooking the 
various cereals, such as oatmeal, cracked-wheat, etc., are not 
given, as each package has upon it the directions for its use, 
which vary so much with the different modes of preparing 
the same cereals for market, that it has been deemed unwise 
to fix any rules for them in the present work. 



EGGS. 



Omelet, Plain, 

" with Tomatoes, 

" Fine Herbs, 

" Asparagus Tips, 

" Kidneys and Tomatoes, 

" Ham, 

' ' Spanish, 

Stirred or Scrambled Eggs, 
' ' with Asparagus Tips, 
" with Tomatoes, etc.. 



Eggs, Boiled, Soft and Hard, 

" Fried, 

" " with Bacon, 

" Poached, 

" a l'Aurore, 

" Fried with Ham, 

" sur le Plat, 

" sur le Plat, Tomato Sauce, 

" en Caisses, 

" with Smoked Beef, etc. 



FISH. 



Kippered Herring, 
Potomac Roe-Herring, 
Yarmouth Bloaters, 
Salt Mackerel, Broiled, 
Finnan Haddie, 
Fish a. la Delmonico, 
Mock Turbot a. la Creme, 
"Breakfast Fish," 
Codfish Balls or Croquettes, 
Herring Balls, 
Coddled Oysters, 
Stewed Oysters, 



Stewed Clams, 
Roasted Clams, 
Fried Sea-Bass, 

" or Broiled Kingfish, 
" Smelt, 

" Small White-Fish, 
Broiled Mackerel, 

" Spanish Mackerel, 
" Shad, 

Small Blue-Fish, 
Fried Blue-Fish Cutlets, 
Oysters en Brochette. 



347 



348 



GOOD-LIVING. 



VEGETABLES AND CEREALS. 

Broiled Fresh Mushrooms, Fried Samp, 

Corn Oysters, " Hominy, 

Potatoes, Fried in Various Styles, " Mush, 

" Stewed with Cream Sauce, Boiled Hominy, 

Potato Hash, Fried, ' ' Oatmeal, 

Cream Potato Hash, Cracked Wheat, 

Plain Baked Tomatoes, Wheaten Grits, 

Fried Tomatoes, Cornmeal Mush. 



MEATS. 



Corn-Beef Croquettes, 

Hash, 
Ham Puffs, 

Westphalia Croquettes, 
Ham Toast, 
Tongue Toast, 

Soused Pigs' Feet or Pettitoes, 
Fried Pigs' Feet, 
Broiled Ham, 
Fried Ham and Eggs, 

" Bacon, 
Bacon, Fried in Batter, 
Toasted Bacon, 
Fried Bacon and Eggs, 
Scrapple, 
Head-Cheese, 
Pork Tenderloins, 

" Chops, 
Sausages, Fried, or with Fried Apples, 
Home-Made Breakfast Sausage, 
Mutton, Loin Chops, Broiled, 
Rib Chops, Broiled, 
Cutlets, Broiled, 
Lamb Chops, 
Veal Chops, Saute, 
Veal Cutlets, Saute or Fried, 
Calfs' Brains au Beurre Noir, 
Liver and Bacon, 



Liver, Saute, 

Fourchette, 

Lambs' Kidneys en Brochette, 

Broiled, 
Beef's " Stewed with Wine, 

" Saute, 

" " Broiled, 

Broiled Porter-House Steak, 

" Beefsteak with Fried Potatoes, 
" Plain Baked 
Tomatoes, 
Broiled Beefsteak with Fried Tomatoes 
" a la Shrewsbury, with 
Broiled Mushrooms, 
Broiled Steak, Stewed Mushrooms, 
" " Maitre d' Hotel Butter, 

" " a la Bearnaise, 

Smoked Beef with Cream Sauce, 

" " with Eggs, 

Turkey Hash, 
Chicken Hash, 
Cream of Veal, 

' ' of Chicken, 
Broiled Chicken, 
Boston Brown Hash, 
Hash, Browned in a Mould, 
Meat Sausages, 
Chicken Livers, Saute. 



HOT CAKES, ETC 



349 



HOT CAKES, ETC. 



Buckwheat Cakes, 

Flannel-Cakes and All Kinds of Grid- 
dle Cakes, 
Sally Lunn, 
Virginia Batter Cake, 
Muffins of All Kinds, 
Crumpets, 

Gems of Various Kinds, 
Breakfast Puffs, 



Laplanders, 

Pop-Overs, 

Corn-Bread, 

Corn Drops, 

Johnny Cake, 

Hoe-Cake and other Corn Cakes, 

Biscuits, 

Hot Rolls. 

Boston Brown Bread. 




EGGS. 
EGGS SUR LE PLAT. 

CEUFS SUR LE PLAT. 

Butter a fire-proof plate or pie-tin ; carefully break upon 
it as many eggs as it will hold side by side. Sprinkle with 
pepper and salt. Put in the oven until the white is set, 
about 5 minutes. To make more perfect, heat the kitchen 
shovel red-hot and hold it close over the eggs for a few 
seconds, until the yolks also are slightly set, then serve im- 
mediately. They must not stand. If preferred, sift grated 
cheese over the top. This makes a nice dish for luncheon. 

EGGS SUR LE PLA T WLTH HAM. 

GEUFS SUR LE PLAT AU JAMBON. 

Lay a few thin slices of ham on a plate as above ; set it 
in the oven or on top of the range to heat through ; then 
break the eggs upon it, and finish as above. 

EGGS SUR LE PLAT WLTH ASPARAGUS LLPS. 

GEUFS SUR LE PLAT, POINTES D'ASPERGES. 

Cover the bottom of the buttered plate (see above) with 
stewed Asparagus Tips (see receipt) ; heat ; then break in 
the eggs and finish as above, 

35o 



PLAIN OMELET. 3$ I 

EGGS SUR LE PLAT, TOMATO SAUCE. 

CEUFS SUR LE PLAT, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Having prepared the eggs as for Eggs sur le Plat, have 
ready heated a rich Tomato Sauce, which pour over the 
eggs. Set in the oven I minute, and serve very hot. 

N.B. — The eggs must be set firm, as described, before the 
sauce is added. 

EGGS A LA TRLPE. 

CEUFS A LA TRIPE. 

Boil the number of eggs required as directed for Hard- 
boiled Eggs. When cold, cut in quarters. Prepare a sauce 
as follows: Stew I chopped onion in I tablespoonful of 
butter gently, until tender ; add salt and pepper, I heaping 
teaspoonful of flour blended with I cup of cream or rich 
milk, a pinch of nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Boil gently 
for 5 minutes, stirring continually. When thick and smooth, 
pour the sauce over the eggs, and serve very hot. 

PLALN OMELET. 

OMELETTE. 

3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of milk, 

j^ teaspoon of flour, Salt and pepper, 

Butter size of a pigeon's egg. 

Separate the yolks and whites of eggs. Beat the yolks 
smooth ; then add to them milk, pepper and salt, and pinch 
of flour ; beat to a cream. Now beat the whites to a stiff 
froth ; then beat together the whites and yolks until 
perfectly smooth and not too frothy. Have the butter 
melted in a very smooth, medium-sized frying-pan, which 
should be hot but not scorching. Pour in the mixture ; let 
it stand a minute or two ; then loosen the edges with a 
knife ; shake the pan occasionally to prevent sticking. Then 
draw the pan a little aside, where it will cook more slowly. 



352 GOOD-LIVING. 

When the edges seem to be quite set, the pan with the 
omelet may be put into the oven for about i minute to set 
the centre, but this is not indispensable. Now fold the 
omelet in 2 or 3, making it long and narrow. Turn a 
hot dish downward over the omelet ; with a quick move- 
ment turn both pan and dish over ; garnish the omelet 
with parsley and serve immediately, or it will fall. The 
chief points in making a good omelet are these : The 
eggs should be perfectly fresh, the pan perfectly smooth, 
not too hot, and well-greased on bottom and sides with but- 
ter ; the heat of the fire should be so managed as to neither 
scorch the outside by too quick a heat, before the centre is 
cooked, nor make it tough and leathery by too little heat. 
A successfully-made omelet should always be slightly 
" fluffy " in the centre, but must be more flaky than fluffy 
through the rest ; therefore, beat the yolks and whites well 
together before cooking ; last, but not least, serve it the 
moment it is done. 

OMELET WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

OMELETTE, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Make a Plain Omelet, or, Parsley Omelet (see receipts). 
Prepare a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Pour the sauce 
around, not over, the omelet. Serve immediately. 

HAM OMELET. 

OMELETTE AU JAMBON. 

3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of milk, 

#" teaspoon of flour, 2 " " chopped ham, 

yi, " " grated onion, or I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 

I tablespoon of chopped chives, Salt and pepper to taste. 

Beat the yolks to a cream. Add to them all the other in- 
gredients. Mix smooth. Add whites beaten to a froth. 
Beat all well together. Melt I teaspoonful of butter in a 
medium-sized pan. When hot, pour in the mixture. Finish 
like Plain Omelet (see receipt). 



OYSTER OMELET. 353 

CREOLE OMELET. 

TORTILLA. 

Ham Omelet, 6 Baked Tomatoes (see receipt). 

Make the Ham Omelet according to receipt. Have 
ready the tomatoes, which should be of uniform size. Gar- 
nish the omelet with these and serve immediately. 

TOMATO ME LET. 

OMELETTE AUX TOMATES. 

Parsley Omelet, Stewed tomatoes. 

Make a Parsley Omelet as directed ; have ready about 
2 gills of thick, fruity, stewed tomatoes, highly seasoned. 
When the omelet is cooked, pour the tomatoes across the 
centre ; fold and serve (see Plain Omelet). If you have no 
stewed tomatoes at hand, peel and cut some raw ; put them 
in a frying-pan with a lump of butter and cook over a very 
quick fire for about 15 minutes. Season and finish as above. 

OYSTER OMELET 

OMELETTE AUX HUITRES. 

12 large or equal bulk of small oysters, 6 eggs, 

4 tablespoons of butter, 1 gill of milk, 

1 tablespoon of flour, Pepper, 

1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, Salt. 

Fry the oysters, after drying them thoroughly in a cloth, 
in very hot butter until slightly browned. Keep them hot 
while you prepare the omelet. Beat the yolks and whites 
of the eggs separately. To the yolks add parsley, salt, 
pepper, milk, and flour, beating very smooth. Melt 1 table- 
spoonful of butter and beat that into the eggs. Mean- 
while have the omelet-pan (a large one for the above 
quantity), heating on the fire with 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Do not let the pan get too hot. Do not allow the butter to 
23 



354 GOOD-LI VING. 

fry, simply to heat quietly. Now beat the whites vigorously 
into the yolks ; beat until thoroughly mixed and quite 
smooth. Pour the mixture into the pan, which must be 
placed where it will have an even, steady, but not too 
intense heat. Detach the edges of the omelet with a knife. 
When set firm enough, lay the hot oysters across the 
centre ; fold the omelet ; dish, and serve immediately. 

SARDINE OMELET. 

OMELETTE AUX SARDINES. 

4 or 6 sardines, Plain Omelet. 

Skin the sardines ; put them in a saucepan on the side of 
the fire. They may be divided into 4 or more pieces each, 
according to size. Warm very carefully but thoroughly. 
When the Plain Omelet (see receipt) is set, lay the sardines 
across the centre, fold it, and serve immediately as directed. 



WHITEBAIT OMELET 

X pound of whitebait, Plain Omelet. 

Prepare the Whitebait as directed (see receipt). Prepare 
a Plain Omelet (see receipt). When the latter is set, lay 
the fish across the centre, fold the omelet over, and serve as 
directed. Or, cook the whitebait (or use those already 
cooked from the day before) ; beat them in with the yolks 
of eggs ; mix in the whites, and finish as directed. The fish 
should be seasoned with salt and cayenne. 

PARSLEY OMELET 

OMELETTE AU PERSIL. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. 

Mix the parsley with the yolks ; add whites, and finish as 
directed. 



POTATO OMELET. 35$ 

OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), i tablespoon of chives, chopped very 

I tablespoon of parsley, chopped very fine, 

fine, I tablespoon of chervil, chopped very 

fine. 

Mix the herbs with the yolks ; add the beaten whites, 
and finish as directed. 

BREAD OMELET 

OMELETTE AU PAIN. 

3 eggs, X teaspoon of salt, 

I gill of bread-crumbs, I gill of milk, 

Butter the size of a walnut, Pepper to taste. ' 

Beat the whites and yolks apart. Add to the yolks the 
milk, salt, pepper, and crumbs. Mix. Beat into this the 
whites ; mix thoroughly. Melt the butter in a very smooth 
frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs. In a minute or 
two loosen the edges with a knife. When slightly firm, 
place the pan in the oven for i minute to set the centre. 
Be careful not to let it harden. Fold it in 2 or 3, and dish 
as directed. Serve immediately or it will fall. Economical 
and good. For detailed directions see Plain Omelet. 

POTATO OMELET 

OMELETTE AUX POMMES DE TERRE. 

2 boiled potatoes, chopped fine, X teaspoon of flour, 

2 tablespoons of butter, 3 eggs, 

1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, Pepper and salt, 
1 tablespoon of milk. 

The potatoes should be boiled with their skins on, and 
not peeled until cold. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a 
frying-pan ; turn in the potatoes ; turn with a flat knife 
until nicely browned ; add parsley, pepper, and salt, and set 
on one side to keep hot while you make a Plain Omelet 



356 GOOD-LIVING. 

(see receipt). When the eggs are slightly set, sprinkle in 
the potatoes, and fold. Serve immediately ; an omelet 
must never stand. 

SPANISH OMELET. 

OMELETTE A L'ESPAGNOLE. 

6 eggs, I small onion or half-clove of garlic, 

3 tablespoons of milk, I medium-sized tomato, 

% pound of bacon, cut fine, % teaspoon of flour, 

Butter the size of a walnut, 5 mushrooms, chopped. 

Pepper and salt. 

Fry the bacon brown ; add to it tomato, mushrooms 
chopped not too fine, and the onion or garlic chopped very 
fine; stir over the fire for 15 minutes. Break the eggs 
whites and yolks apart. Beat the yolks and add to them 
salt, pepper, flour, and milk. Add lastly the whites, and 
beat until smooth. Melt the butter in a smooth frying- 
pan ; when hot, pour in the eggs ; in a minute or two, loosen 
the edges with a knife.. When nearly set, pour in the 
tomato mixture ; fold over, and dish on a hot platter. 
Serve immediately. For detailed directions see receipt for 
Plain Omelet. 

ONION OMELET. 

OMELETTE A L'OGNON. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), 1 tablespoon of butter, 

I large onion, minced fine. 

Stew the onion in butter until tender. Mix the omelet as 
directed ; pour it into the pan with the onion ; stir once to 
mix, and finish as above. 

CHEESE OMELET. 

OMELETTE AU FROMAGE. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), }( cup cream or rich milk, 

^ cup of grated cheese. 

Mix the cheese with the cream ; stir smooth quickly. 
Add these to the yolks ; season with pepper and salt to 
taste ; add whites and finish as directed. 



RUM OMELET. 357 

KIDNEY OMELET. 

OMELETTE AUX ROGNONS, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), Stewed Kidney (see receipt), 

Tomato Sauce (see receipt). 

The kidneys should be very carefully stewed to be tender, 
and wine should be added. When the omelet is ready to fold, 
lay the kidneys across the centre ; fold ; dish. Pour over 
and around a thick, rich Tomato Sauce, to which must be 
added the remaining gravy of the kidneys, and a little more 
wine if necessary. Serve immediately. Recommended. 

TRUFFLE OMELET. 

OMELETTE AUX TRUFFES. 

Make a Plain Omelet (see receipt). Slice the truffles ; heat 
them very carefully with butter and a very little white wine 
or sherry. When the omelet is ready to fold, place these in 
a row across the centre ; fold ; dish, and serve immediately. 

MUSHROOM OMELET. 

OMELETTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

Stew fresh mushrooms (see receipt). Make a Plain 
Omelet (see receipt). When it is ready to fold, place the 
mushrooms across the centre ; fold and dish. Pour the 
mushroom sauce over, and serve immediately. 

RUM OMELET. 

OMELETTE AU RHUM. 

Plain Omelet (see receipt), I gill of Jamaica rum, 

Powdered sugar. 

Omit pepper and add a pinch of salt and a little sugar to 
the yolks, milk, and flour. Beat together whites and yolks, 
but not as much as for an ordinary omelet. When cooked as 
directed, put it on a dish which can be set in the oven-; 
cover with powdered sugar ; add a little of the rum, and set 



358 



GOOD-LIVING. 



it in the oven for 2 minutes. Take it out ; add the rest of the 
rum ; set fire to it with a match, and serve while blazing. If 
it is heated with the rum it will burn for a few minutes 
longer. Excellent. 

OMELET WITH SWEETMEATS. 

OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES. 
Plain Omelet (see receipt), 2 gills of preserves. 

Make the omelet as directed, omitting pepper and add- 
ing a pinch of salt and a little powdered sugar to the yolks. 
When ready to fold, spread the preserves in a row across the 
centre ; fold and dish. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Heat 
the kitchen poker red-hot, and hold it diagonally across the 
top of the omelet in 3 places, for an instant. This burns 
the sugar and gives to the omelet the appearance of having 
been broiled. Peach marmalade, strawberry preserves, or 
plum jam are best for the purpose. Excellent. 

TO BOIL EGGS. 

CEUFS A LA COQUE. 

Put your eggs in a bowl which can be sent to table. When 
the kettle is boiling, pour the boiling water over the eggs. It 
is essential that the water should be boiling. Stand for 5 
minutes. Drain. Add more boiling water. Let stand again 
5 minutes and serve. 

This way of boiling eggs, though so simple, is going out of 
fashion in these days ; unfortunately, as it makes a wonder- 
ful difference, not only in the appearance of the egg when 
broken open, but, above all, in its digestibility. For the use 
of invalids, eggs should never be boiled in any other way. 

SMOKED BEEF AND EGGS. 

1 cup of smoked beef, I teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 

6 eggs. 

Put the beef in a frying-pan with boiling water to cover ; 
scald 5 minutes. Throw off the water ; add a small lump of 
butter. Break the eggs, meanwhile, into a bowl ; beat until 






TO BOIL EGGS HARD. 359 

smooth ; add 1 tablespoonful of milk, a dash of pepper, and 
pour the eggs into the pan with the beef and butter. Stir 
them over a moderately-hot fire, always scraping the egg 
from the bottom of the pan. Remove the pan from the fire 
a little before it is firm enough, and continue to scrape the 
egg from the bottom, as it will continue to harden. Serve for 
breakfast. 

BAKED EGGS. 

CEUFS FARCIS. 

6 eggs, boiled, 1 egg, raw, 

2 tablespoons of finely-chopped chicken, y% teaspoon of ground mace, 

2 mushrooms, chopped, Salt and pepper, 

I tablespoon of finely-chopped parsley, I large slice of ham. 

Boil the Eggs Hard as described (see receipt). When cold, 
cut in half, crosswise. Remove a little slice from the bottom 
to make them stand. Take out the yolks ; rub them smooth 
and add to them chicken, mushrooms, parsley, and season- 
ings, mixing well. Fill the whites with this, rounding up 
the tops. Brush with the yolk of the raw egg and set in the 
oven to brown. Cut a thin slice of boiled ham ; heat it 
in the frying-pan; divide it into 12 small squares. When the 
tops of the eggs are browned, set them on a hot dish with a 
piece of ham under each. Pour Cream Sauce (see receipt) 
around, not over, the eggs, and serve very hot. A pretty dish 
for luncheon. 

TO BOIL EGGS HARD. 

If to eat plain boiled, put the eggs into a saucepan of boil- 
ing water and boil from 6 to 10 minutes. If they are to be 
dressed and served cut in sections, they should be put into a 
saucepan of boiling water and boiled rapidly for 25 minutes; 
throw the water off then, and allow cold water to run over 
them 2 or 3 minutes ; then set aside in fresh cold water 20 or 
30 minutes. If managed in this way, the whites will not 
break as easily, nor the yolks crumble as much, when cut. 
To remove the shells, roll them gently on the table until the 
shell is cracked closely all over ; then you can draw off skin, 
shell and all, without marring the surface of the egg. 



360 GOOD-LIVING. 

POACHED EGGS. 

GEUFS POCHES. 

Put boiling water into a frying-pan with salt and 1 table- 
spoonful of vinegar. Bring to a boil. Have ready rounds 
of toast nicely trimmed and buttered. Break the eggs, 1 
by 1, into a saucer; when the water is boiling hard, draw 
the frying-pan aside ; drop in the eggs ; set the pan where it 
will simmer very gently, until the eggs are set firm ; pour 
some of the boiling water with a spoon over the yolk of 
each egg, just enough to make a thin film of white. When 
set firm, remove with a skimmer, putting 1 egg on each 
slice of toast. Trim off the ragged edges ; sprinkle a dash 
of pepper on the very centre of each egg, and serve very 
hot. Do not let them stand. 

N. B. — Do not let the water boil while the eggs are cook- 
ing, or they will be broken and ragged. 

POACHED EGGS, WITH ANCHOVY TOAST. 

CEUFS AUX ANCHOIS. 
Make six rounds of buttered toast. Spread each lightly 
with anchovy paste, and set on a hot dish in the mouth of 
the oven. Poach six eggs as described above. Place an 
egg on each piece of toast ; pepper the top, and serve 
very hot. 

EGGS AU BEURRE NOIR. 

CEUFS AU BEURRE NOIR. 
Melt 1 large tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan. 
Break the eggs, 1 by 1, on a saucer, and, when the butter is 
hot, slip them into the pan. When the whites are nearly 
set, baste the eggs with a little of the hot butter. Sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Put the eggs on a hot dish. Set the 
pan on the hot fire, and, when the butter is browned, add a 
large tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil up once and pour over 
the eggs. Serve very hot. If there is not enough butter in 
the pan after the eggs are cooked, add a tablespoonful ; let 
it fry brown, then add the vinegar as above. 



EGGS A L'AURORE. 36 1 

HAM AND EGGS. 

CEUFS AU JAMBON. 

The ham for this should be previously boiled. Cut slices 
of medium thickness, I for each egg ; lay the ham in a 
hot frying-pan ; fry for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, until 
the fat is transparent, then lay it on a hot platter. Break 
the eggs, 1 by 1, into a saucer. Put each into the frying-pan 
and fry until the white is quite set. The fat of the ham is 
generally sufficient for frying the eggs ; if not, add a lump 
of butter. Remove the eggs ; lay each on a separate piece 
of ham. If the eggs merge into each other in the pan, cut 
them neatly apart with the edge of the cake-turner. Serve 
hot. This is a national dish of Holland. 

FRIED EGGS. 

CEUFS FRITS. 

Proceed as above, omitting the ham and using enough 
butter to grease the pan thoroughly. 

EGGS A L'AURORE. 

CEUFS A L'AURORE. 

8 eggs, 1 tablespoon of chopped chives, 

I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 pint of Cream Sauce, 

Salt, Pepper. 

Put the eggs into boiling water, and let them boil rapidly 
25 minutes. Drain ; let the cold water run on them a few 
minutes ; then cover with cold water and set aside 20 to 30 
minutes. Have ready the Cream Sauce (see receipt) ; stir 
into it parsley, chives, pepper, and salt. Now cut the eggs 
in quarters lengthwise ; remove the yolks, which you throw 
into a coarse sieve. Place the whites on a platter, making 
an even row all round near the edge, with the points turned 
outward and upward ; fill in the centre in the same way. 
Pour the hot cream sauce over these, covering all except 



362 GOOD-LIVING. 

the outer half of the row of whites on the edge of the dish 
Now, with a potato-masher, rub the yolks through the 
sieve, scattering them evenly all over the sauce, still leaving 
visible the points of the whites. Have ready on the fire a 
pot of boiling water ; stand the dish of eggs over this for 
about 5 minutes till well-heated again. Serve. If it has 
been done quickly, the sauce will not have had time to cool, 
and the eggs will soon warm. If you have a double dish 
with a hot-water compartment, use it for the above. This 
will be found not only delicious, but very pleasing to the 
eye, and most simple to make. 

CURRIED EGGS. 

GEUFS AU KARL 

8 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt), Salt and pepper, 

1 pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt), r teaspoon of curry-powder, 

1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 1 " " chopped chives. 

When the cream sauce is prepared, blend and stir into it 
the curry-powder; then add parsley, chives, salt, and pepper. 
Keep it hot over boiling water, while you prepare the eggs. 
Having already boiled the eggs, cut them in halves ; lay 
them in a deep dish ; pour over them the sauce. Cover. 
Set the dish over boiling water for 10 minutes, until the 
eggs are thoroughly heated, and serve. 

STIRRED OR SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

CEUFS BROUILLES. 

Break the eggs into a bowl ; beat them thoroughly 
together ; add a teaspoonful of cream to each egg ; season 
with pepper and salt. Have ready a saucepan with melted 
butter. Do not cook over too hot a fire. Pour in the eggs ; 
stir and scrape from the bottom of the saucepan without 
ceasing, until as thick as batter. Remove. Continue to 
stir for a few moments after removing from the fire, as they 
will harden. Serve on buttered toast. 






TRUFFLED EGGS AU JUS. 363 

STIRRED EGGS WITH TOMATOES. 

GEUFS BROUILLES AUX TOMATES. 

Proceed as above, omitting the cream and adding 1 large 
tablespoonful of the fruity part of stewed tomatoes to each 
egg ; pepper, salt, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Finish 
as above. Delicious. 

EGGS EN MATELOTE. 

CEUFS EN MATELOTE. 

6 eggs, 6 slices of toast, 

Matelote Sauce (see receipt). 

Have ready 6 rounds of buttered toast. Bring the sauce 
to a boil. Break the eggs into a saucer 1 by 1, and poach 
in the sauce. Draw the saucepan aside where it will only 
simmer gently while the eggs are cooking. Remove with 
a skimmer; put one egg on each slice of toast. Let the 
sauce boil up again ; add more wine and a little thickening, 
about 1 teaspoonful of butter rubbed up with 2 of flour. 
Stir and boil 3 minutes. Pour over, the eggs and serve. 

TRUFFLED EGGS AU JUS. 

CEUFS TRUFFES AU JUS. 

6 e gg s > * giU 0I "ch cream or milk, 

3 truffles, Salt and pepper, 

3 gills of Jus (see Brown Gravy), Butter. 

Use only the best truffles. Chop not too fine. Break 
the eggs into a bowl and beat until whites and yolks are 
well mixed. Add a scant gill of cream ; salt and pepper to 
taste. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. Pour 
in the eggs and stir over a slow fire without ceasing until 
beginning to thicken. Keep the eggs scraped from the 
bottom of the saucepan or your dish will be spoiled. At 
this point, stir in the truffles. Continue to stir the eggs 
until as thick as batter ; then remove from the fire, as they 
will harden a little afterward. Stir for a moment. Dish 



364 GOOD-LIVING. 

on a round entree dish. Have ready a very rich gravy. It 
must have no thickening but its own concentrated strength 
and richness. If the Jus is not obtainable, boil down con- 
somme until it reaches the required degree of strength and 
richness. Pour it around, not over, the eggs, and serve. 
This is a delicious and appetizing dish for luncheon. 

EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS. 

CEUFS AUX CHAMPIGNONS. 

May be cooked as above, using mushrooms instead of 
truffles, and their sauce instead of the jus, the mushrooms 
having been previously stewed (see receipt). 

EGG-FOND U. 

FONDU AU FROMAGE. 

6 eggs, % teaspoon of salt, 

4 heaping tablespoons of grated cheese, Cayenne, 

I tablespoon of butter, I gill of rich milk. 

Beat the eggs together until light ; add salt, pepper, 
grated cheese, and a scant gill of cream or new milk. Melt 
the butter in a frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs and 
stir until smooth and as thick as batter. Serve immediately 
on buttered toast. 

BACON AND EGGS. 
Proceed as for Ham and 'Eggs (see receipt). 

EGGS AUX POINTES UASPERGES. 

CEUFS AUX POINTES D'ASPERGES. 

2 gills of cold asparagus-tips, 4 eggs, 

2 tablespoons of milk, Salt and pepper, 

2 teaspoons of butter, Buttered toast. 

Having boiled the asparagus-tips (see receipt), put them 
into a saucepan with the butter, salt, and pepper, and heat 
slowly. Break the eggs into a bowl, and beat until well 



STIRRED EGGS k L ' INDIENNE. 365 

mixed. Add the milk, salt, and pepper. Melt I teaspoonful 
of butter in a frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs and 
stir until almost, but not quite, set (as thick as batter). 
Turn in the asparagus-tips and stir only just enough to mix 
without breaking the tips. Scrape the eggs from the bot- 
tom of the pan ; remove from the fire before the eggs are 
quite firm, and continue to stir for a few moments, as they 
will harden a little. Serve very hot on buttered toast. 

EGGS EN CAISSES. 

CEUFS EN CAISSES. 

Use small soufrl6-cases, or small casseroles with 3 legs and 
a handle, which are made expressly for eggs. Butter the 
inside; half- fill with bread-crumbs, browned in butter, sea- 
soned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Break an egg 
into each case ; set in the oven for 5 minutes, or until half- 
firm ; or, set in a pan of boiling water on the top of the 
range. The water should reach only % the height of the 
cases. Do not let the eggs cook until hard. 

STIRRED EGGS A VINDIENNE. 

CEUFS BROUILL^S, A L'lNDIENNE. 

I small onion, chopped fine, 5 ounces of butter, 

I teaspoon of curry-powder, Pepper and salt, 

6 e gg s > 4 tablespoons of cream. 

Fry the onion golden brown in 1 ounce of butter. Stir 
in the curry-powder. Stir and set aside. Break the eggs^ 
into a bowl ; beat until smooth. Add the cream. Melt 4 
ounces of butter in a saucepan ; pour in the eggs and cream, 
then the onion and curry. Stir, and scrape from the bottom 
of the saucepan until as thick as batter. Remove from the 
fire before the egg hardens too much, and continue to stir 
for a few moments. Serve very hot on rounds of buttered 
toast. Boiled rice should be served at the same time. 



366 GOOD-LIVING. 

FRICASSEED EGGS. 

CEUFS A LA POULETTE. 

i pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt), i teaspoon of chives, chopped fine, 

I teaspoon of parsley, chopped fine, 8 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt). 

Add the herbs to the sauce ; season with salt and pepper. 
Lay the eggs, cut lengthwise in £, in a deep dish ; pour 
the sauce over ; set for 10 minutes over a pot of boiling 
water, and serve immediately. 

STUFFED EGGS WITH MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

(EUFS FARCIS, SAUCE MAYONNAISE. 

6 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt), I gill of milk, 

I small cup of stale bread-crumbs, Cayenne, 

i tablespoon of Parmesan, grated, i teaspoon of butter, 

Chives and parsley, chopped, Salt and pepper. 

Having boiled the eggs as directed, when quite cold, 
remove the shells very carefully, and, with a sharp knife, cut 
in two, lengthwise. Rub the yolks to a powder and mix 
with an equal bulk of bread-crumbs. Add all the other in- 
gredients, and mix. If too dry, moisten with a little milk. 
Season highly with cayenne. If you have no chives, use 
grated onion to taste. Fill the 12 shells with the mixture, 
rounding up the top. Set upon a tin in the oven for about 
5 minutes, until delicately browned. Set away to get cold, 
and serve with Mayonnaise or Tartare Sauce; or serve hot 
with Tomato Sauce (see receipts). Minced chicken may be 
substituted for part of the bread-crumbs. 

EGGS IN A NEST. 

Having stuffed the eggs as above, serve them hot on a 
neatly-arranged bed of Spinach (see receipt). 



OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS SAUTE. 367 

EGGS A LA VALENCIENNE. 

CEUFS A LA VALENCIENNE. 

2 gills of boiled rice, 2 gills of tomato sauce, 

2 mushrooms, chopped, ]/?. teaspoon of salt, 

1 truffle, " Pepper, 

2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan, Pinch of grated nutmeg. 

Put into a saucepan the rice, Tomato Sauce (see receipt), 
mushrooms, truffle, cheese, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Stir 
over the fire for 5 minutes. Set aside over boiling water 
until required. Prepare 8 eggs as directed for Eggs sur le 
Plat (see receipt). When the eggs are cooked, arrange the 
rice, etc., in 4 parts, 1 at either end and 1 at either side. 
Serve very hot. 

EGGS A LANDALOUSE. 

GEUFS A L'ANDALOUSE. 

1 pint of Tomato Sauce (see receipt), 1 tablespoon of butter, 

2 sweet peppers, peeled and chopped, 1 teaspoon of chopped chives, 
6 poached eggs, 6 slices of toast. 

Fry the chopped peppers in butter; add them to the 
tomato sauce with the chives ; let the sauce boil briskly for 
about 10 minutes, being careful not to scorch it. Have 
ready 6 rounds of toast on which lay the 6 Poached Eggs 
(see receipt). Pour the sauce over all and serve immediately. 

OMELET WLTH CHICKEN LIVERS SAUTE. 

OMELETTE AUX FOIES DE VOLAILLES. 

Prepare chicken livers (see receipt for Chicken Livers 
Saute) ; set aside to keep warm while you prepare a Parsley 
Omelet (see receipt). When the omelet is set, lay the 
chicken livers across the centre ; fold the omelet over and 



368 GOOD-LIVING. 

EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

CEUFS, SAUCE TOMATE. 

Boil 6 eggs hard as directed (see receipt) ; cut them 
lengthwise in £-. Have ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see 
receipt). Lay the eggs in the dish ; pour the tomato sauce 
over them. Cover the dish, and set it over a kettle of boiling 
water for 15 or 20 minutes, and serve. 

EGGS WITH CELERY. 

CEUFS AU CELERI. 

Prepare a Celery Sauce (see receipt). Poach 6 fresh eggs ; 
arrange them on 6 rounds of buttered toast in a circle on a 
hot dish, and pour the celery sauce in the centre. Serve 
very hot. 

N. B. — The celery sauce used should be blended with 
cream sauce or with pure cream. 




BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 

BUTTER. 

The golden rule of good butter-making is : Keep all your 
utensils absolutely clean and pure ; do not spare time or 
trouble in the attainment of this primary necessity. The 
milk pans should shine like silver, and be kept airing and 
sunning until required for use. Before straining the milk 
into the pan, first scald, then rinse the pan in cold water. It 
need not be wiped after this last. The milk should be strained 
into the pan just as soon as possible after the milking ; it 
should not stand in the kettle. The cream should be allowed 
to stand in £ he pan 24 hours before skimming, if possible, as 
it will be firmer and richer, but may be skimmed, if the milk 
is required for use, after 12 hours ; however, leave it as long 
as you can afford to. Skim it into a sweet, clean, scalded, 
and rinsed crock, not into any tin vessel. Do not cover the 
crock unless with an inverted sieve. It must have air. Keep 
the crock in a cold place. In summer, churn, if possible, 
every second day ; every third day at the longest. While 
you are preparing your churning apparatus, take the cream 
from the ice (unless the weather is intensely warm) and set 
it where it will attain a temperature of about 65 . If you 
have no thermometer for the purpose, you can soon learn to 
know by the feeling, if you put your finger into the cream. 
It should feel neither cold nor yet even mildly warm. Have 
the churn, like every thing else about the butter, the very 
essence of cleanliness. Scald it first thoroughly, as also the 
butter-paddle and bowl. This swells the wood and prevents 
the grease from getting into the pores. Then throw the boil- 
24 369 



3 JO GOOD-LI VING. 

ing water out and rinse with cold water until it feels perfectly- 
cold to the touch. Empty out the cold water ; turn in the 
cream ; close the cover (if a revolving churn) and turn the 
crank moderately-quickly. The warmer the weather, the 
slower should be the churning. If churned too rapidly, the 
butter will be oily ; if too slowly, it will take a very long 
time to come. With the cream at 65 or 68°, the churn well 
cooled, and proper rate of turning, the butter should sepa- 
rate from the milk, or " crack," in 20 minutes. Then churn 
very slowly for a few minutes more, until it gathers in little 
balls as large as a good-sized marble ; then swing the dasher 
back and forth until the butter gathers in one or two large 
lumps. Do not work at it too much or it will get soft and 
the texture be spoiled. Draw out the bung and let off the 
buttermilk into a pail. Put back the bung and fill the churn 
up to the crank with iced or very cold spring water. Turn very 
slowly until the milk is quite thoroughly washed out of the 
butter. Remove the bung and draw off this water. Remove 
the crank and dasher. Then lift out the butter, which you 
place in the wooden bowl, which has been prepared as di- 
rected. If the butter appears to retain any milk, work it 
once in a little very cold water ; sprinkle with dairy salt, 
about 1 saltspoonful to 1 lb. ; work this in a little and set 
the whole thing in the ice for 2 or 3 hours. Then it may be 
worked once more with a little more salt to taste, made into 
pats, and set away in the ice-box for use. 

Too much working will make the butter oily and destroy 
its texture, as well as its flavor. Unless it is to be packed to 
keep, there is no object in much working or washing. Wash- 
ing once or twice after it is churned is all that is required. 
Some butter-makers use as many as 4 changes of water, and 
in many cases wash out flavor as well as buttermilk. 

N. B. — If the butter is inclined to oil, and not crack, from 
the high temperature of the weather or from too rapid churn- 
ing, put in a lump of ice and a pinch of salt. It is a good 
plan, in hot weather, when the " pin-heads " begin to appear, 
to throw in about % a pint of very cold water. 



COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIER-KASE. 37 1 

If, on the other hand, the weather is cold and the butter 
will not gather, but remains in " pin-heads," you will be 
obliged to throw in a little boiling water and churn more 
rapidly. But the necessity for this should be avoided by 
raising the cream to the proper temperature before begin- 
ning. This can be accomplished in cold weather by stand- 
ing the crock in a large pan, pouring boiling water around it, 
and letting it stand until ready. The use of hot water later 
in the churn to gather the butter, tends to render it white and 
tasteless. 

The above directions are for the crank or " Rose " churn, 
which is recommended, instead of the old-fashioned churn, as 
being far less fatiguing. 

BONNY CLABBER. 

Fill a glass dish with whole or skimmed milk that is 24 
hours old. Set it in a rather warm place, that is, not on the 
ice (from 75 ° to 8o°), and let it stand until the milk becomes 
perfectly firm. Then set in the ice-box until very cold, and 
serve before it gets to the point of " cracking," that is, the 
point where the curd and whey separate. The time for 
this cannot be specified definitely, as it depends upon the 
weather and atmosphere, a warm day or a thunder-storm 
serving to lobber the milk more rapidly. Serve very cold 
with cream, sugar, and grated nutmeg to taste. 

COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIER-KASE. 

The milk for this purpose may be skimmed or whole. Let 
it stand off the ice in a bowl or pan until it forms by itself 'a 
firm curd. This will take from 24 to 48 hours (or even more) 
according to the weather. If this latter is cool, the milk may 
be placed in a warm corner of the kitchen ; but on no account 
set it on the range, as is so often done, to the great detriment 
of the cheese. When it has formed a firm curd, and begins 
to " crack," as above described, pour it into a coarse muslin 
or cheese-cloth bag. Tie the top together with a strong 



372 GOOD-LIVING. 

twine and suspend the bag (if in the country) from the limb 
of a tree, in the shade. Place a pan underneath to catch 
the whey ; let it hang until the whey ceases to drip — no 
longer. Take a portion of the cheese ; rub it up with a gen- 
erous lump of fresh butter, a little salt, and sufficient thick, 
sweet cream to make it soft. Serve very cold, with a pitcher 
of cream, and salt or sugar, according to taste. There are 
perforated tin-moulds made for draining this cheese, which 
are also very good. The curds should be left in the mould 
until all the whey is drained off, and may then be turned out 
in shape. Mix with cream only as much of the cheese as 
will be used at one time, leaving the remainder on the ice ; 
otherwise the cream might become sour and spoil the sweet- 
ness of the cheese. 

N. B. — Observe particularly that the milk must not be 
scalded to form the curd, or the cheese will be first leathery, 
then dry and grainy ; in short, not a success. 




BREAD, BISCUITS, AND BREAKFAST-CAKES. 

YEAST. 

4 large potatoes, i cup of good yeast, 

I gill of sugar, I quart of boiling water, 

2 tablespoons of salt. 

Peel the potatoes ; let them lie in cold water 30 minutes. 
Have ready the boiling water in a saucepan. Grate the 
potatoes quickly ; stir them in the boiling water over the 
fire for 5 minutes. Remove, and add the sugar and salt. 
Turn into a bowl and set aside until lukewarm ; then add 
the yeast ; cover and ferment 3 or 4 hours. Every time it 
rises to the top of the bowl, stir it down. Bottle it ; cork 
tightly and set in a cool, but not freezing place. It will keep 
for 2 weeks. Save 1 cupfu 1 t s ' u tl nr*x+- time. 

NOTE NO. I. 
One cupful of yeast is equal to 1 cake of compressed yeast. 

NOTE NO. II. 

Always grease the tins for bread and cake with lard ; but- 
ter blackens the outside of the loaf. 

BREAD. 

1 cake of Fleischman's yeast, Sifted flour to make a soft dough, 

I tablespoonful of sugar, 2 quarts of warm water (or half scalded 

I " " salt, milk), 

Butter or lard, the size of an egg. 

Dissolve the yeast-cake thoroughly in a little of the luke- 
warm water ; mix into this all the ingredients overnight. 
373 



374 GOOD-LIVING. 

Set in a sheltered corner ; cover with a cloth. Next morn- 
ing knead well once for 15 minutes, adding only enough 
flour to keep from sticking to your fingers. Mould into 
loaves and put into greased pans. The pans should not be 
more than ^-full. Set again in a sheltered corner and 
cover. In 1 or 2 hours, when it is raised to at least twice 
its bulk, bake for about 45 minutes (for medium-sized loaves), 
turning the loaves, when firmly set, so that all sides may 
brown alike. Avoid letting any draught blow on the dough 
while raising, shutting any window that may be near. It 
must be kept in a moderately-warm, even temperature. The 
oven must be not too quick, and very steady. The above 
receipt, if followed literally, will be found excellent. 

N. B. — If milk is used with the warm water, watch that 
it does not become sour in warm weather. It is a good plan, 
in this case, to mix about \ of a teaspoonful of soda with 
a few drops of boiling water, and, when lukewarm, to work 
it into the dough while kneading. For raising, the temper- 
ature should be from 90 to 95 . 

BRAN BREAD. 

To the receipt for Bread, add, when kneading, 1 gill of 
strained molasses and 2 handfuls of clean bran. Omit the 
sugar, and raise very light. Finish as above. 

RYE BREAD. 

Make the wheat-sponge as directed in receipt for Bread. 
Set it overnight. The next morning, work in just enough 
rye-meal to prevent the dough from sticking to the hands. 
Knead it well, and finish according to the same receipt. 
Rye bread is never as light as wheat, but is wholesome as a 
variety. This is the kind of bread that should be cut very 
thin, buttered, and put together in tartines, to be served 
with whitebait or with raw oysters. This last is a European 
custom which we may adopt with advantage. 



BREAD ROLLS. 375 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

Mix a wheat-sponge as directed in receipt for Bread. Set 
it overnight. Next morning, work in 4 tablespoonfuls of 
molasses and sufficient Graham flour to make a dough a 
little softer than wheat bread. As Graham bread sours very 
easily, it is best to set the sponge without milk ; watch it 
carefully when formed into loaves and set to rise, and just 
as soon as it is light, put it into the oven. Finish as directed. 

GLUTEN BREAD. 

1 cake of Fleischman's yeast, 1 quart of lukewarm water, 

yz tablespoon of salt, Gluten-flour, for stiff dough, about 2 pounds. 

Melt the yeast thoroughly in the warm water ; add salt. 
Work in the flour by degrees. Set in a warm, sheltered 
corner. Cover. When raised to at least twice its bulk, 
knead the dough very thoroughly for 10 to 15 minutes. 
Mould the loaves not larger than \ the size of the pans. 
Put into greased pans and raise as before. Bake in a steady, 
moderately-hot oven. When the loaves are firm, say in 
about 20 minutes, turn and brown them evenly on all sides. 
They will be done in about 45 minutes, according to the 
oven. 

BREAD ROLLS. 

Having made wheat Bread according to receipt, take a 
piece of dough the size of an ordinary loaf ; knead it about 
twice as long as directed for the bread ; form it into even, 
small balls and place in greased gem-pans. Cover and set in 
a warm corner until risen very light, a little more than twice 
their original bulk, then bake in a moderately-quick oven for 
about 20 to 25 minutes. Watch and turn them that they 
may brown evenly. 

Or, having rolled the dough as directed above, place the 
balls side by side in a pie-tin ; raise very light, as directed ; 
bake, and serve without breaking apart. They should be 
eaten hot ; and broken, not cut with a knife. This makes a 
very pretty loaf. 



376 GOOD-LIVING. 

BREAD PUFFS. 

Take the value of I loaf of risen bread-dough. When 
very light, have ready boiling some deep lard in a kettle. 
Pull out some of the dough quite thin ; cut it in 2-inch 
lengths. Throw them immediately into the boiling lard 
and cook until puffed and golden-brown, like doughnuts. 
Remove with a skimmer ; drain, and serve hot. They may 
be covered with powdered cinnamon and sugar as they are 
removed from the fire, and should be eaten immediately 
with butter. Very simple and good. 

ITALIAN BREAD. 

I pound of bread-dough, 4 ounces of softened butter, 

Corn-meal. 

Work the butter into the dough, when it has risen ready 
for the oven. Roll it out \ an inch thick ; cut it into strips 
nearly 1 inch wide by 7 or 8 inches long. Sift fine corn- 
meal over them ; place on a sheet of greased tin, not 
touching each other, and when light (about I hour) bake in 
a quick oven about 10 minutes. 

SALT-RISING BREAD. 

1 pint of scalding water, 1 x / 2 teaspoons of salt, 

I " " milk, Flour. 

Add to the water enough flour to make a thick batter 
add \ teaspoonful of salt, and beat until smooth and full of 
air-bubbles. Cover closely. Stand the pitcher in a pan of 
warm water, and set in a warm place from 5 to 8 hours. It 
requires to be kept much warmer than bread which is made 
with yeast, in a temperature of about 1 12 degrees, and may be 
stirred once or twice while rising. In the morning, scald the 
milk, and set aside to cool. When lukewarm, add 1 tea- 
spoon of salt and enough flour to make a batter thick enough 
to drop, not pour, from the spoon. Now turn into this the 
salt-rising, which should be very light, and have an unpleasant 
odor. Beat vigorously and continuously for 3 minutes. Cover 



SALLY LUNN. 377 

with a cloth, and set in a pan of warm water. Let it stand 
in a warm place until very light, about 2 hours ; then add 
sufficient flour to make a dough that will not stick to the 
hands. Knead thoroughly until smooth and elastic. Mould 
into loaves ; place in greased pans ; cover with a cloth, and, 
when very light, bake in a moderate oven I hour. This must 
be kept warmer than yeast bread, or it will not rise. The 
above receipt is given to be used when yeast is not obtainable. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

2 cups of rye-meal, I cup of molasses, 

I teaspoon of salt, 2 cups of Indian-meal, 

i^ pints of sour milk, i teaspoon of soda or saleratus. 

Mix the two meals evenly together. Dissolve the soda in 
2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water ; add this and the molasses 
to the sour milk ; mix, and pour into the meal ; add the 
salt, and stir well together. Pour it into a well-greased, 
2-quart brown-bread mould ; put on the lid and steam for 5 
hours. Then take off the lid ; set the mould in the oven 
and bake 30 minutes. 

SALLY LUNN. 

1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, 

1 teaspoon of sugar, 2 ounces of butter, 

ryi pints of sifted flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

1 gill of good yeast, or half-compressed yeast-cake. 

Scald the milk ; add to it the butter and set aside to cool. 
When lukewarm, add yeast, salt, sugar, and flour. Beat 
steadily for 5 minutes. Cover. Set in a warm place for 2 
hours, to rise, until very light. In winter it will require a 
longer time. Beat the yolks and whites of eggs, apart, until 
very light ; add first the yolks to the batter, then the whites. 
Stir lightly and carefully. Set again in a warm place for 1 5 
minutes, to rise. Pour the mixture into a well-greased turk's- 
head, and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 40 minutes. 
Serve hot. 



378 GOOD-LIVING. 

VIRGINIA BATTER-CAKE. 

I cup of boiled rice, Butter, the size of an egg, 

i pint of milk, x / 2 pint of Indian-meal, 

I egg, Pinch of salt. 

Boil the rice the day before ; drain ; while warm, stir in 
the butter. Next morning, mix the rest of the ingredients 
together ; stir in the cupful of rice, and pour the mixture 
into 2 greased pans, and bake immediately for I hour. 

TEA BISCUIT. 

2 teaspoons Royal baking-powder, 3 cups of flour, 
Cold water to make a soft dough, 1 tablespoon of lard, 

Yi teaspoon of salt. 

Mix together lard, flour, salt, adding baking-powder in 
last cup of flour. Add the water. Roll out thin. Cut in 
rounds. Bake 15 minutes. 

SODA BISCUIT. 

1 quart of sifted flour, y z pint of milk, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 1 large tablespoon of lard, 

2 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, or y z teaspoon of soda and 1 of cream 

of tartar. 

Mix the baking-powder (or soda and cream of tartar) and 
salt with the flour and sift again. Rub the lard and flour 
together. Have the oven ready and very hot. Grease the 
pans, and have every thing in readiness before you add the 
milk. Now add the milk. Knead up quickly ; roll out I 
inch thick, and cut into small rounds. Bake about 20 min- 
utes. Handle as little and as lightly as possible. 

SHORT-CAKES. 

3 cups of sifted flour, 1 even teaspoon of baking-powder, 
1 teaspoon of salt, ^f cup of butter, 

1 scant cup of ice-water. 

Rub the butter into the flour quickly and lightly, handling 
as little as possible ; add salt and baking-powder ; mix well. 
Moisten with the ice-water, using a knife to mix it. Roll 
out \ an inch thick ; cut into small rounds ; bake on a greased 
pan in a quick oven for about 20 minutes. 



GRAHAM FINGERS AND THUMBS. 379 

CREAM SHORT-CAKES. 

1 quart of sifted flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

2 gills of thick sour cream, 1 level teaspoon of baking-soda. 

Add the salt to the flour. Dissolve the soda in 2 table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water ; add it to the sour cream ; then 
add the cream instantly to the flour. If it stands at all be- 
fore mixing, the cakes will be heavy. Mix quickly, and 
form into cakes the size of a saucer and £ an inch thick. 
Place on a hot griddle greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. 
Brown on one side ; turn and brown the other. The dough 
should be as soft as you can handle. If the flour absorbs 
the cream too much, add a little more. 

MARYLAND BISCUIT. 

1 quart of sifted flour, 2 gills of water, 

1 large tablespoon of lard, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

2 gills of milk. 

Mix together salt and flour. Rub the lard into the flour 
evenly with the hands. Have the milk and water in a 
pitcher, and add it gradually to the flour, stirring and 
kneading all the time. Add only enough to moisten the 
flour, as the dough should be very stiff. Knead 5 min- 
utes. Beat with an axe (the receipt says, but a rolling-pin 
might do where an axe is not available) for 30 minutes. 
Then form, with the hands, into small round biscuit, about 
\ an inch thick. Prick in 3 places with a fork, and set 
them in a moderately-quick oven for 20 to 25 minutes. The 
outside should be light-brown, the inside white, flaky, and 
delicious. 

GRAHAM FINGERS AND THUMBS. 

1 pound of Graham flour, 2 ounces each of butter and lard, 

3 gills of sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

1 teaspoon of baking-soda, 3 teaspoons of cream of tartar. 

Mix together salt, cream of tartar, and flour, and sift through 
the finest kind of a sieve. When well mixed, rub in the 
lard and butter with the hands until very fine ; add the milk 



380 GOOD-LIVING. 

and mix lightly ; lay the dough on a floured board, handling 
as little as possible. Roll it out \ an inch thick. Cut \ 
of this into strips 4 inches long and 1 inch wide. Roll 
the strips in corn-meal until round and well coated. Lay 
them in well-greased biscuit-pans, not touching each other. 
Bake in a quick oven 10 or 15 minutes. Cut the remaining 
\ of the dough in circles ; double these over ; draw out a 
little, and bake like the strips. Dish together and serve hot. 

GRAHAM WAFERS. 

Yz pound of Graham flour, 2 gills of sweet cream, 

y 2 teaspoon of salt. 

Mix. Roll as thin as possible on a floured board. Cut 
in small squares and lay on tins. Prick with a fork and 
bake in a quick oven. Do not grease the sheets of tin. 

OA T-CAKE. 

yi pound of oatmeal, fine, 2 gills of water, 

y 2 teaspoon of salt. 

Mix. Roll as thin as possible on a floured board. It 
should make a stiff dough. Cut in squares, and lay on un- 
greased tins. Prick well with a fork, and bake in a quick 
oven. 

BUTTERMILK MUFFINS. 

I quart of buttermilk, Flour, to make a rather stiff batter, 

1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in a few 2 eggs, 

drops of hot water, 1 teaspoon of salt. 

Mix the milk into the flour ; add eggs, etc. Bake in small 
gem-pans, or in rings on a greased griddle. In a quick oven 
they will require about 15 minutes. The soda should be 
added last, and well beaten in. Excellent. 

PLAIN MUFFINS. 

2 e gg s i I P mt °f flour, 
1 cup of new milk or cream, 1 teaspoon of baking-powder, or yi teaspoon 
Pinch of salt, * of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, level, 

Butter size of an egg. 

Sift the baking-powder and salt with the flour ; beat the 
e gg s > whites and yolks apart ; add to the yolks first the 



BREAD MUFFINS. 38 1 

milk, then the butter, melted ; then add these to the flour ; 
lastly, add the whites. Beat well, after it is all mixed, and 
bake immediately in a hot oven, in greased rings or gem- 
pans ; or bake in rings on a hot, greased griddle. The batter 
must be just thin enough to pour. 

CREAM MUFFINS. 

2 gills of flour, 2 gills of sweet cream, 

j£ teaspoon of salt, 3 eggs. 

Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Beat together yolks and 
salt, and add them gradually to the cream. Stir these into 
the flour, and add, lastly, the whites, mixing very gently but 
thoroughly. Bake in greased gem-pans in a quick oven for 
10 to 15 minutes ; or bake in greased rings on a hot, greased 
griddle. 

KALAMAZOO MUFFINS. 

1 pint of thick sour cream or milk, 1 pint and 2 gills of flour, 

i 1 /^ even teaspoons of soda, 1 saltspoon of salt, 

3 ounces of butter, melted, 2 eggs. 

Put all the ingredients into a bowl, and beat them thor- 
oughly together, adding lastly the soda, dissolved in 2 
teaspoonfuls of boiling water. Bake in greased gem-pans 
in a quick oven for 10 or 15 minutes; or bake in greased 
muffin-rings on a hot, greased griddle. 

BREAD MUFFINS. 

1 pint of stale bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

1 pint of milk, 3 gills of sifted flour, 

2 teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 tablespoon of butter, melted, 

2 eggs. 

Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for 30 minutes. Beat 
the eggs, yolks and whites apart. Add to the bread, first 
the yolks, then butter and salt. Mix well. Add the flour ; 
beat. Lastly, stir in carefully the whites of eggs, beaten to 
a stiff froth, and the baking-powder. Mix thoroughly. 
Bake in greased gem-pans in a quick oven about 20 min- 
utes ; or bake in greased rings on a hot, greased griddle. 



382 GOOD-LIVING. 

Note. — To grease the griddle for muffins and griddle- 
cakes, use a piece of salt pork, on the end of a fork. Keep 
it for the purpose. 

A VERY USEFUL BA TTER FOR MUFFINS, ETC. 

2 e gg s » 2 teaspoons of baking-powder, 

2 cups of milk, or less, 2 cups of flour, 

Pinch of salt, 2 tablespoons of melted lard or butter. 

Beat the whites and yolks apart. Mix together milk and 
yolks of eggs. Mix together baking-powder and flour; into 
this stir the milk and eggs with the salt; then add the 
melted lard or butter, stirring until perfectly smooth. Add 
lastly the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. For muffins, bake 
in greased muffin-rings on a hot, greased griddle. For oven- 
muffins, bake in gem-pans, or in greased rings, for 15 to 20 
minutes in a quick oven. Or, bake in 1 round tin, like Sally 
Lunn, for 25 to 35 minutes. Or, add a little sugar to sweet- 
en ; bake in 1 round tin, as above, and serve hot, with a hot 
Wine Sauce as a plain dessert. Or, for Yorkshire pudding, 
add a little more milk to the batter, and bake in a roasting- 
pan, which has been greased with the drippings of the beef. 
Bake from 25 to 40 minutes, according to the heat of the 
oven and thickness of the pudding. This batter is recom- 
mended. 

CRUMPETS. 

1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

3 cups of flour, or about, 4 ounces of butter, 

1 cup of yeast or )/ 2 compressed yeast-cake, dissolved in 1 gill of warm water. 

Scald the milk ; when lukewarm, add it to the salt and 
flour ; beat hard ; then add the. butter, melted, and the 
yeast. Beat again. Cover and set in a warm place, until 
very light, about 2 hours. Grease very large muffin-rings 
and place on a greased, hot griddle. Fill each ring not more 
than |~full of the batter. Bake brown on one side, then 
turn and bake the other side. Remove from the fire, spread 
with butter, and serve hot. Or set aside until wanted ; then 



RICE WAFFLES. 383 

toast on both sides ; spread with butter and serve hot. 
Crumpets should always be served on a hot-water plate, with 
a bell-cover over them. 

PLAIN WAFFLES. 

2 e S» S > l P^ nt ^ fl OUr ! 

1% cups of new milk or cream, Butter, size of a walnut, 

1 teaspoon of Royal baking-powder, Salt. 

Mix the baking-powder and salt with the flour. Beat the 
whites and yolks apart. Melt the butter and add it to the 
milk ; next add the beaten yolks and milk to the flour ; 
lastly, the beaten whites. Bake immediately. The waffle- 
iron should be very hot, and well greased in every part. 
Have the batter in a pitcher and pour it in carefully. As 
soon as the edges are set, turn the waffle-iron and bake the 
second side. There is quite an art in making very good 
waffles, as much depends upon their being baked evenly. 
Select a square waffle-iron with 4 compartments, and do not 
be tempted by too elaborate a design. When your waffles 
are baked, pile them in a double row on a hot plate, butter- 
ing each one generously. Serve very hot, with cinnamon 
and sugar mixed. 

WAFFLES WITHOUT YEAST OR SODA. 

I pint of milk scalded, 2 ounces of butter, 

1 " and 1 yi gills of flour, 3 eggs, 

% teaspoon of salt. 

Melt the butter in the milk, and when sufficiently cooled, 
mix it into the flour and salt. Beat whites and yolks apart. 
Stir the yolks into the batter, and lastly add the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on a hot waffle-iron as directed 
for Plain Waffles (see receipt). 

RICE WAFFLES. 

Follow exactly the receipt for Plain Waffles, using 1 cup 
of cold boiled rice and omitting \ a cup of flour ; add the 
rice before the eggs, and finish as directed. 



384 GOOD-LIVING. 

HOE-CAKE. 

I pint of corn-meal, )/ 2 teaspoon of salt, 

Water. 

Mix the corn-meal with the salt in a bowl. Add enough 
boiling water to just moisten the meal, and let it stand 10 
minutes. Then add more boiling water until the batter will 
drop from the spoon. Bake in cakes on a hot griddle 
greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. When done, put 
a piece of butter on the top of each cake and serve. 

The old Southern colored cooks were famous for these 
cakes, which they baked before a wood-fire on their hoes. 

JOHNNY-CAKE. 

r pint of buttermilk, 3 eggs, 

I " " Indian-meal, I teaspoon of soda or saleratus, 

i tablespoon of butter, melted, I " " salt. 

Beat the eggs together until very light ; add them to the 
buttermilk ; then add these to the Indian-meal with the 
melted butter and salt ; beat. Dissolve the soda or saleratus 
in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water ; add this to the batter ; 
mix thoroughly and pour into a shallow, greased baking-pan. 
Bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30 minutes. 

CORN-CAKE. 

1 pint of sweet milk, scalded, 3 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart, 
Butter size of an egg, 2 gills of corn-meal, 

Pinch of salt. 

Sprinkle the corn-meal into the milk ; remove from the 
fire ; add the butter and salt while the milk is hot. Beat the 
yolks and mix into the meal ; add, lastly, whites beaten to 
a stiff froth. Have ready, heated very hot, gem-pans or I 
large pan. Butter these thoroughly. Bake 20 minutes or 
more, according to the size of the pans, in a quick oven. 



CORN-DROPS. 385 

CORN-BREAD. 

2 tablespoons of melted lard, Corn-meal for stiff batter, 

1 tablespoon of sugar, 2 eggs, 

I " " flour, 1 pint of sour milk, 

1 teaspoon of baking-soda. 

Mix together milk, beaten eggs, and sugar ; stir these into 
the flour and corn-meal ; then add melted lard. Dissolve the 
soda in a few drops of boiling water ; add it and beat hard 
for several minutes. Have ready heated, greased dripping- 
pans ; pour in the batter, and bake in a moderately-quick 
oven for 20 to 30 minutes. 

VIRGINIA CORN-CAKES. 

I quart and 1% gills of sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

I " of corn-meal, 4 eggs. 

1 gill of melted butter. 

Put the meal in a 3-quart bowl with the salt. Pour over it 
about £ the milk. Mix well. Add the butter and eggs 
well beaten together ; then the rest of the milk. Beat again. 
Bake on a hot griddle greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. 

ALABAMA CORN-CRUST. 

1 pint of corn-meal, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 

1 % teaspoons of salt, 1 pint of boiling water, 

1 egg. 

Stir the boiling water into the meal, sugar, and salt ; mix 
well. Stir in the beaten egg, and spread thin in small biscuit- 
pans. Smooth with a knife dipped in cold water, and score 
it. Bake in a quick oven until slightly browned, about 10 
minutes. Watch that it does not scorch. 

CORN-DROPS. 

I pint and 1 gill of cold milk, 2 eggs, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 2 gills of corn-meal, 

2 ounces of butter. 

Set the pint of milk over boiling water on the fire ; when 
boiling, stir in the meal mixed with the gill of cold milk, salt, 
25 



386 GOOD-LIVING. 

and melted butter. Stir and cook until the batter is like 
mush ; remove from the fire ; beat whites and yolks of eggs 
apart. Add the yolks to the batter and beat ; then add the 
whites. Beat all together very light, then drop it in separate 
spoonfuls on a greased tin and bake in a quick oven until 
brown, about 1 5 to 20 minutes. Be careful that the cakes 
do not scorch. 

DELICATE CORN-ROLLS. 

1 quart of milk, I pint of wheat flour, 

2 gills of corn-meal, I ounce of butter, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 2 eggs, 

I teaspoon of baking-soda, and 2 of cream of tartar, or 2 heaping teaspoons of 
Royal baking-powder. 

Scald i pint of the milk on the fire over boiling water 
add to it the butter, salt, and the meal, mixed smooth with 
a little of the cold milk. Stir and let it cook until like thick 
mush. Stir in the cold milk mixed with the beaten yolks of 
the eggs ; then the flour sifted with the cream of tartar ; then 
add the soda, dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of the hot milk. 
Add, lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in gem- 
pans in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes. 

PLAIN CORN-DROPS. 

3 gills of boiling water, 1 pint of corn-meal, 

2 ounces of butter, y z teaspoon of salt, 

3 tablespoons of milk, 2 eggs. 

Pour the boiling water on the corn-meal, butter, and salt. 
Add the milk and eggs, these last beaten together until light. 
Mix well and drop by the spoonful on greased tins, and bake 
in a quick oven 1 5 to 20 minutes. Watch that they do not 
scorch. 

PUFFS. 

1 egg beaten very light, 1 gill of flour, 

2 gills of milk, Pinch of salt. 

Mix milk and egg ; stir these into the flour and salt. 
Have your gem-pans very hot. Grease. Pour in the batter 
and bake 30 minutes, or until the top is a firm crust. These 
may also be served for dessert with a sweet sauce. 






POP-OVERS. 387 

LAPLANDERS. 

1 full pint of flour, Pinch of salt, 

I pint of milk, 2 eggs, 

1 tablespoon of butter. 

Heat the milk to nearly, but not quite, boiling. Stir in 
butter and salt. Beat the yolks of eggs and stir them into 
the milk ; then add the milk to the flour, and lastly the 
whites beaten stiff. Have the pans hissing hot ; pour in the 
batter, and bake until brown, in a quick oven. This will 
take from 20 to 30 minutes. These may also be eaten with 
a sweet sauce for dessert. 

BREA KFA S T PUFFS. 

2 gills of water, 5 level tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, 

2 " " milk, Pinch of salt, 

2 eggs, whites and yolks beaten apart. 

Stir the water, milk, salt, and yolks into the flour. Beat 
smooth. Add lastly the beaten whites. Mix smooth and 
bake in 1 large puff or in small pans 15 to 30 minutes, 
according to size. The pans should be very hot and well 
greased. 

POP-OVERS, NO. I. 

1 pint of milk, I egg, 

1 " " flour, Pinch of salt. 

Beat the egg and mix it with the milk ; stir all into the 
flour. Heat gem-tins very hot ; grease with lard ; fill ^-full 
and bake 15 or 20 minutes in a quick oven. Recommended. 

POP-OVERS, NO. II. 

2 cups of milk, 2 eggs, 

2 " " flour, 1 even teaspoon of salt, 

Beat whites and yolks apart. Stir the milk and eggs 
together into the flour. Beat smooth. Add salt. Lastly 
add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Heat gem-pans very 
hot. Grease; fill -|-full. Bake in a quick oven 20 min- 
utes or more, until a firm crust is formed. Or, bake in tea- 
cups, and serve with Wine or Lemon Sauce (see receipt). 



388 GOOD-LIVING. 

GRAHAM GEMS. 

Use same batter as for Pop-overs, substituting \ Graham 
flour. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

1 quart of cold water, I teaspoon of salt, 

3^ cups of buckwheat, i gill, or y z cake, of yeast, 

2 tablespoons of molasses, ^ teaspoon of soda. 

Select buckwheat of the best quality. Put the cold water 
into a stone jar with a narrow neck (there are jars made 
expressly for the purpose) ; add salt and buckwheat, and rub 
perfectly smooth. Add the yeast, or the !~cake of com- 
pressed yeast, dissolved in I gill of tepid water. Mix well. 
Put on the cover of the jar ; set it in a moderately-warm 
place overnight. Next morning, add \ a teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in boiling water ; beat this thoroughly 
through ; mix in the molasses, and bake on a hot griddle. 
Test i cake, and if it is bitter or heavy, add a little more 
soda to the batter as above. Reserve I cupful of this 
batter as the foundation of the next batch of cakes. Leave 
it in the jar, cover it with a little cold water, and set it in a 
cool place until evening ; then pour off the clear water from 
the top (if any) ; add the fresh buckwheat, water, and salt ; 
stir smooth, and set away until next day, repeating this pro- 
cess as long as you care to eat buckwheat cakes. The grid- 
dle should be heated gradually until very hot. Grease with 
fat pork. If well made, these cakes should be like a net- 
work of air-holes, as light as possible. 

BUTTERMILK GRIDDLE CAKES. 

I quart of buttermilk, i teaspoon of baking-soda, 

I teaspoon of salt, i egg, 

Flour for thin batter. 

Beat the egg together ; add to it the buttermilk and salt. 
Mix well. Dissolve the soda in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water ; stir it into the buttermilk, then add this instantly to 
the flour, stirring all the time. Any delay will make the 



RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 389 

cakes heavy. The batter should be thin enough to pour 
smoothly from the spoon. Beat well and bake quickly on a 
hot griddle, greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. (Or, the 
soda may be dissolved as above, and added to the batter 
last, after which beat the batter for 1 or 2 minutes.) 

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE CAKES. 

I quart of sour or buttermilk, 2 eggs, beaten light, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of molasses, 

1 " "baking-soda, 1 tablespoon of lard, melted, 

1 gill of flour, Corn-meal for thin batter. 

Mix together eggs, milk, and molasses, and add these to 
the flour ; mix in enough corn-meal to make a batter of the 
thickness of rich cream. Add the melted lard ; then the 
soda dissolved in a few drops of boiling water. Beat very 
hard. Have the griddle very hot, and grease with a piece 
of fat salt-pork. Test a little of the batter ; it should run 
easily, and the cakes should be so thin that you can only 
just turn them with the cake-turner. If too thick, add a 
little more buttermilk and a pinch of soda as before ; if too 
thin, add a little more corn-meal. Delicious. Recommended. 

OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES. 

1 pint of cold boiled oatmeal, 2 cups of flour, 
y 2 teaspoon of salt, 1 cup of milk, 

2 teaspoons of baking-powder, 2 eggs, 

1 cup of boiling water. 

Beat the milk into the oatmeal ; then add the salt, yolks, 
and boiling water. Mix. Add the flour sifted with the 
baking-powder ; beat again ; lastly add whites of eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth. Mix well and bake on a hot griddle greased 
with a piece of fat salt-pork. 

RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 

1 pint of milk, 2 teaspoons of Royal baking-powder, 

2 cups of cold boiled rice, 2 cups of flour, 
y z teaspoon of salt, 3 eggs, 

1 tablespoon of melted butter. 

Rub the rice through a sieve ; add to it the eggs well 
beaten together; the melted butter; milk; then the flour 



390 GOOD-LIVING. 

sifted with the powder. Mix well and bake immediately on 
a hot griddle, greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. Or, these 
may be made with yeast instead of baking-powder, adding 
I gill of yeast or \ a yeast-cake dissolved in I gill of luke- 
warm water, standing the batter in a warm place at least 2 
hours before baking. 

HOMINY GRIDDLE CAKES, 

Proceed exactly as for rice griddle cakes, substituting the 
same quantity of cold boiled hominy, and not passing it 
through a sieve. 

RAISED FLANNEL-CAKES. 

I pint and I gill of milk, I teaspoon of salt, 

I tablespoon of butter, 2 eggs, 

I gill of yeast, or % compressed yeast-cake, 3 cups of flour. 

Scald the milk and add the butter ; set it aside to cool. 
When lukewarm, add the yeast (or yeast-cake dissolved in 
£ a gill of warm water). Add salt and beat well. Cover 
and set in a warm place overnight. Next morning beat 
the eggs, whites and yolks apart ; add first the yolks, then 
the whites, to the batter; beat well. Set aside 15 minutes. 
Then bake on a hot, greased griddle. 

QUICK FLANNEL-CAKES. 

1 quart of sifted flour, 1 pint and 2 gills of milk, 

2 ounces of butter, 3 eggs, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 2 teaspoons of baking-powder. 

Rub the butter into the flour with the hands until evenly 
mixed ; mix in the salt. Add the beaten yolks of eggs to 
the milk ; add this to the flour ; beat hard until smooth ; then 
add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and baking- 
powder. Bake quickly on a hot griddle, greased with a piece 
of fat salt-pork. 



FRITTER BATTER. 



FEA THER-CAKES. 



391 



2 ounces of butter, melted, 1 pint of milk, 

1 egg, Pinch of salt, 

2^ teaspoons Royal baking-powder, sifted with 2^ cups of flour. 

Mix the flour, salt, and powder ; mix egg and milk ; mix 
the milk into the flour and beat until smooth. Bake on a 
hot griddle. 

STALE-BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES. 

1 quart of milk, scalding hot, 2 eggs, 

1 pint of stale bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

1 tablespoon of melted butter, Flour for thin batter, 3 ounces, 
2 teaspoons of baking-powder, or ]/ 2 teaspoon of soda and 1 of cream of tartar. 

Soak the bread in the milk for 1 hour, then beat it smooth. 
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks apart, until very light. Add 
to the bread, first the yolks, then the flour, butter, and salt. 
Beat again ; add baking-powder and whites of eggs, and bake 
quickly on a hot griddle, greased with fat salt-pork. Or, the 
bread-crumbs may be stirred into the batter at the time of 
baking, not soaked as above. 

FRITTER BA TTER. 

4 ounces of flour, % level saltspoon of grated nutmeg, 

I level saltspoon of salt, 2 eggs, 

yi " " " pepper, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 

1 cup of cold water, more or less. 

Mix the flour with the yolks of eggs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, 
and oil (the latter makes it crisp), then add -the water ; enough 
of the latter to make the batter sufficiently stiff to hold the 
drops from the spoon in shape when dropped from it. Stir 
in, lastly, the 2 whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. When 
the lard is boiling, deep enough to float the fritters, dip 
whatever you wish to fry into the batter, covering it on all 
sides ; drop into the lard and fry until golden brown. Drain 
on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. This is a good, 
crisp batter. 



392 GOOD-LIVING. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

I pint of milk, 3 eggs, 

54 cup of flour, 1 saltspoon of salt. 

Beat the eggs together very light. Add salt and milk. 
Pour £ on the flour. Rub smooth. Add the rest of the 
milk. Remove the roast-beef from the roasting-pan. Pour 
off the gravy, leaving a little drippings. Pour in the batter 
and bake in a quick oven 20 minutes or more, according to 
size. Serve under roast-beef ; or cut in even pieces and serve 
around the beef. 

N. B. — The pudding may be baked in another pan while 
the beef is roasting. Grease the pan with some of the drip- 
pings of the beef, and bake as directed. 

DUMPLINGS. 

1 pint of sifted flour, ]^ teaspoon of salt, 

Milk to make soft dough, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking-powder. 

Sift together the powder and flour ; add salt and milk. 
Do not handle too much. Have ready the pot of boiling 
gravy or salted water ; drop the dough by even bits into the 
pot; cover; boil 10 minutes, steadily, but not too hard. 

NOTE. — If cooked in gravy, be careful that it does not 
scorch. 

SUET DUMPLINGS. 

]^ pound of suet, chopped fine, % teaspoon of salt, 

Twice the bulk of suet in flour, }( cup of ice-water. 

Chop the suet fine ; measure it with a cup, and allow twice 
the bulk in flour ; add salt ; mix ; moisten, with the ice- 
water, enough for a stiff batter. Roll into balls the size of 
a hickory-nut ; drop into boiling soup or gravy. Cover, and 
cook 15 minutes. If in gravy, be careful that it does not 
scorch. 



CREAM TEA-CAKES. 393 

BUTTERMILK DUMPLINGS. 

iyi cups of buttermilk, I teaspoon of baking-soda, 

Flour for stiff batter, 2 eggs. 

Beat the eggs together ; mix them with the milk. Dissolve 
the soda in a few drops of boiling water ; mix it with the 
milk ; pour the milk instantly into the flour, blending to a 
smooth, soft dough. If sweet milk is used, allow I teaspoon 
of Royal baking-powder to each cup of flour instead of the 
soda. Sift the powder with the flour. Drop the dough by 
the teaspoonful into boiling water ; cover, and boil steadily, 
but not too rapidly, for 10 minutes. 

VELVET-CAKES FOR TEA. 

i quart of sifted flour, i pint of sweet milk, 

I gill of sugar, I y z ounces of butter, 

3 even tablespoons of baking-powder, I egg. 

Beat the egg, butter, and sugar together, until very light ; 
sprinkle into them the flour sifted with the baking-powder. 
Mix flour, sugar, etc. Stir in enough of the milk for a stiff 
batter, and beat thoroughly. Add the rest of the milk. 
Beat again. Pour into well-greased gem-pans, and bake in a 
quick oven, 15 to 20 minutes. 

CREAM TEA-CAKES. 

I pint of sour cream, 1 quart of sifted flour, 

1 e gg. beaten, Pinch of salt, 

Small lump of butter, size of a hickory-nut, y z teaspoon of soda. 

Mix. The dough should stand 1 5 minutes, then be rolled 
out \ of an inch thick, cut in rounds, and baked on a hot 
griddle. Spread with butter, and serve hot. 



CAKES. 
WEDDING CAKE. 

I pound of butter, I pound of brown sugar, 

1 " " flour, 4 pounds of raisins, stoned. 

2 pounds of currants, cleaned, I pound of citron, 

I cup of N. O. molasses, I pint of best brandy, 

Ground spices to taste, 18 eggs, yolks only. 

Rub the sugar and butter to a cream. Strain in the molas- 
ses. Clean the Currants as directed (see receipt). Stone the 
raisins (see receipt). Slice the citron. Add the yolks of 
eggs ; then the brandy, \ the flour, and spices to taste. 
Shake the fruit in the remaining flour until well coated ; then 
add all the fruit and flour to the cake. Mix thoroughly. 
Bake in 3-quart tins, lined with thick paper very well 
greased. It must be baked in a very slow oven, and will 
require about 4 hours. If the oven gets at all hot, cool it by 
opening the cover over the top. Cover the top with thick 
paper. When cold, ice the top of the cake (see receipt for 
Icing.) 

TROY LOAF-CAKE. 

1 quart of sifted flour, 8 ounces of butter, 

1 pint of " A " or " C" sugar, 2 gills of cold water, 

3 teaspoons of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 

%, small nutmeg, grated. 

Sift the baking-powder and flour together. Cream the 
butter and sugar ; add the yolks, water, and flour. Add, 
lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready 2 parrS 
well greased with lard and lined with thin paper also greased. 
Pour in the mixture. It should fill each pan about £-full. 
394 






ANGEL CAKE. 395 

Set in a quick, but not scorching, oven. Shut the door very 
gently, and be careful not to jar the cake, or it will be heavy. 
Do not open the door for about 10 minutes, and then as 
little as possible, and very gently. If the cake is baking 
quicker one side than the other, turn it around very care- 
fully, but not until the cake has begun to set. If the top 
browns too quickly, cover with a layer of thick paper. If it 
cracks ever so little, lessen the heat of the oven by opening 
the range-cover above it on a crack about \ of an inch wide. 
A cracked loaf-cake is never a light cake. Great care must 
be taken in the baking, for as much of the success depends 
upon that as upon the ingredients and the manner of com- 
bining them. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Test through the 
middle with a broom-whisp. If it comes out perfectly dry, 
the cake is done. Turn it out on an inverted sieve to cool. 
Ice it, or simply sift powdered sugar over it. 

ARCHANGEL CAKE. 

Whites of 8 eggs, 1 cup of butter, 

2 cups of sifted flour, 1 " " "A" sugar, 

1 teaspoon of Royal baking-powder. 

Cream butter and sugar together ; add flour, and flavor 
with lemon, or bitter almond and rose-water. Add lastly the 
whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in layers 6 to 10 minutes, 
and fill with Almond Paste Filling (see receipt), or bake in a 
turk's-head tin. For directions for baking loaf-cake, see 
Troy Loaf-Cake. Bake for about 30 minutes in a moderately- 
quick oven. Superior to Angels' Food. 

ANGEL CAKE. 

3 gills of granulated sugar, sifted twice, 1 1 whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff 

1 cup of flour, sifted 4 times, froth, with a pinch of salt, 

1 heaping teaspoon of best cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of vanilla. 

Add the sugar to the beaten whites ; beat lightly until 
well mixed. Sift the cream of tartar with the flour a fifth time. 
Add the flour to the eggs, and beat again. Last of all, add 



396 GOOD-LIVING. 

vanilla. Line a turk's-head tin with paper, using no grease. 
Fill the pan not more than f-full ; or use 2 small tins. Bake 
in a moderate oven 40 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. 
When done, turn the cake upside down, and, when cold, ice 
the bottom with Egg-Icing (see receipt). 

N. B. — Do not use any other pan than that which has a 
tube in the centre (turk's-head). 



POUND-CAKE. 

7 ounces of sifted flour, 8 ounces of sugar, 

6 " " butter, ^ teaspoon of ground mace, 

j4 lemon, juice and grated rind, 4 eggs. 

Beat the butter to a cream, and stir the flour into it. Beat 
together the yolks and sugar until very light, then mix them 
with the butter and flour. Add lemon and mace, and lastly 
the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready loaf- 
tins lined with well-greased paper. Bake about 30 minutes 
in a moderately-quick oven. Test with a broom-whisp. For 
detailed directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. 

AURORA LOAF-CAKE. 

11 ounces of butter, 1 pint and 2 gills of sugar, 

2 pints and 2 gills of flour, 2 gills of milk, 

I gill of wine and brandy mixed, 5 eggs, 

i}i pounds of stoned raisins, 3 teaspoons of baking-powder. 

Sift the flour and powder together. Cream the butter and 
sugar ; add the yolks and beat until very light ; stir in the 
milk. Beat the whites to a dry froth, and add them and the 
flour alternately ; then add the wine, and lastly the raisins, 
well floured and shaken until each raisin becomes coated on 
all sides. Stir only just enough to mix. Have ready deep 
pans lined with paper greased with lard, and bake in a quick, 
but not scorching, oven for fully 45 minutes. Cover the 
cake with a layer of thick paper. For detailed directions 
for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. 



SPONGE-CAKE. 397 

SPONGE-CAKE NO. I. 

I pound of sifted powdered sugar, II eggs, 

3 teaspoons of Cleveland or 2 of Royal Juice of i lemon, 

■ -■• baking-powder, Grated rind of ]/>, lemon, 

io ounces of sifted flour. 

Cream together the yolks and sugar. Add the lemon- 
juice and rind ; then the flour ; then the whites of eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. Add, lastly, the baking-powder, and 
stir lightly but thoroughly. Line a long loaf-pan with well- 
greased thin paper and fill |-full with the batter. Set in 
a moderately-quick oven for 25 to 35 minutes. Test with a 
broom-whisp. If it comes out perfectly dry, the cake is done. 
Watch carefully that it does not brown too quickly or un- 
evenly ; if too quickly, cover with brown paper. Besides 
this loaf-cake, this receipt will make a layer-cake of 4 layers. 
When eggs are plentiful, it is economical. The layer-cake 
may be filled with lemon or other filling. Recommended. 

SPONGE-CAKE NO. II. 

6 e gg s > % tne weight of eggs in flour, 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, Weight of eggs in sugar. 

Weigh the sugar and flour ; separate the yolks and whites 
of eggs. Sift the flour. Beat the whites to a very stiff 
froth. Grate the lemon-peel, and strain the juice. Have 
the cake-pan greased (an oblong one is best) and every thing 
in readiness before putting together the ingredients. Beat 
the yolks and sugar until very light and pale yellow. Now 
add the juice and rind of lemon and \ of the flour. Mix 
well. Now add \ the whites of eggs ; mix carefully and 
quickly ; then the second \, and mix ; then the remaining 
whites of eggs. Stir as little as is necessary to mix in the 
whites ; pour into I or more pans, and bake in a quick oven 
30 to 45 minutes, according to size. If the top is inclined 
to brown too quickly, lay a paper over it. The art of making 
good sponge-cake lies in the order of mixing the ingredients, 
and upon the mixing being done very quickly. 



398 GOOD-LIVING. 

LAYER SPONGE-CAKE. 

r cup of sifted powdered sugar, 3 eggs, 

I " " " flour, Lemon extract, 

1 medium teaspoon of Royal baking-powder. 

Cream together the yolks and sugar ; add lemon-extract 
to taste ; the flour and baking-powder sifted together, and 
lastly the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in 
well-greased jelly-cake tins for about 10 or 12 minutes. Fill 
with Lemon, Chocolate, or other Filling (see receipts). 
Recommended. 

FRENCH CAKE. 

1 cup of milk, 2 heaping teaspoons of Royal baking- 
3 gills of "A" sugar, powder, 

3 whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff 1 gill of butter, 

froth, 3 cups of sifted flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar together ; add the milk ; then 
the flour, which is sifted with the baking-powder. Flavor 
with extract of bitter almonds and rose-water, or other flavor- 
ing to taste. Add lastly the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. Bake in a loaf for about 25 or 30 minutes (for direc- 
tions see Troy Loaf-Cake), or in layers, 6 to 10 minutes. 
For the latter, the oven should be quicker than for the loaf. 
Fill with Almond or other Filling (see receipts). Ice to taste. 

SAVOY CAKE. 

GATEAU DE SAVOIE. 

4 ounces of powdered sugar, 3 eggs, 

\% ounces of sifted flour, 1 ounce of corn-starch, 

Vanilla to taste. 

Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream ; add the flour, corn- 
starch, and vanilla. Mix well. Beat the whites of eggs 
to a stiff froth, and stir them in lightly, but thoroughly. 
Butter a cake-mould, turk's-head, or other; coat the bottom 
and sides with powdered sugar ; fill f-full with the batter, 
and bake in a moderately-quick oven for about 45 minutes. 
For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. 



DRIED-APPLE OR ECONOMICAL FRUIT-CAKE. 399 
MANQUE T. 

Yolks of 8 eggs, yi pound of " A " sugar, 

Grated rind of 1 lemon, I ounce of melted butter, 

Whites of 3 eggs, beaten. 

Cream together the yolks and sugar, beating until very 
light ; add the rind of lemon Add lastly the whites of 3 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready a cake-pan well 
greased ; dust it on sides and bottom with flour ; pour in 
the batter and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30 
minutes or more. For directions for baking, see Troy 
Loaf-Cake. 

CAKE WITHOUT EGGS. 

3 gills of "A" sugar, 2 cups of sifted flour, 

1 teaspoon of baking-powder, I cup of milk, 

2 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 

Small pinch of salt. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; add flour, salt, then 
milk and flavoring, and beat hard ; add baking-powder. Mix 
well and bake in a tin lined with thin, greased paper, about 
30 minutes or more. For directions for baking, see Troy 
Loaf-cake. 

DRIED-APPLE OR ECONOMICAL FRUIT-CAKE. 

y£ pound of butter, 1 large tablespoon of lard, 

^ " " dried, sour apples, % pound "of "A" or " C" sugar, 

1 pint and 2 gills of N. O. molasses, 1 JS^T pounds of sifted flour, 

2 gills of stoned raisins {% lb.), 1 tablespoon of baking-soda, 
1 teaspoon of baking-powder, Juice of 1 lemon, 

1 tablespoon of ground cinnamon, 1 egg, 

I " " " mace, 1 teaspoon of ground cloves, 

Pinch of salt. 

Soak the apples in water overnight. Next morning, 
drain ; chop ; put them in a saucepan with the molasses and 
spices. When they come to a boil, set a little aside where 
they will stew gently for 20 minutes. Stir occasionally to 
prevent scorching. Set away to cool. Meanwhile, cream 



400 GOOD-LIVING. 

the butter and sugar. When the molasses is cold, stir in the 
butter, sugar, egg, flour, and baking-powder. Beat hard for 

3 or 4 minutes. Dissolve the soda, which should be a little 
more than a level tablespoonful, in a few drops of boiling 
water. Have ready the raisins, shaken in flour, until each 
one is well coated all over. Now beat in the soda for a 
minute or more ; then stir in the raisins lightly and quickly. 
The batter should be thick enough to drop, not pour from 
the spoon. Have ready 2 large loaf-pans lined with well- 
greased, thin paper. Fill f-full of the batter, and set in a 
moderately-quick oven. The oven should at no time be 
intensely hot. After 15 minutes, when the cake should be 
set, turn off all excessive heat. Cover the top with a layer 
of brown paper, and bake in all about 45 minutes. If the 
oven is too hot, the cake will crack and be heavy. Test 
with a broom-whisp ; when it comes out perfectly dry, the 
cake is done. This is an excellent cake which can be 
recommended for large households ; it is economical. 

GINGERBREAD. 

1 quart of darkest Porto Rico molasses, i teaspoon of soda and I of cream of tartar, 
1 pound of dark-brown sugar, or 2 of Royal baking-powder, heaping, 

I cup of milk, 6 eggs, 

4 cups of sifted flour, or more, }i pound of butter, 

I large teaspoon of ground cinnamon, I teaspoon of ground ginger, 
^ teaspoon of ground cloves. 

Warm the molasses slightly ; strain it into a bowl with the 
butter, and beat it ; then add the other ingredients, sifting the 
cream of tartar or baking-powder with the flour, and adding 
enough flour to make quite a stiff batter. If soda is used, 
dissolve it in a little of the milk ; add it last, and beat for 
several minutes. If the above quantities of spices are not 
sufficient, add ginger and cinnamon to taste. Line deep 
pans with well-greased paper ; fill about f-full with the bat- 
ter, and bake about I hour in a slow oven. If it browns too 
quickly, cover it with a piece of paper. Test with a broom- 
whisp. For directions, see Troy Loaf-Cake. You may add 
to the above, raisins, washed, stoned, and shaken in flour. 



GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUTTER OR EGGS. 401 

GINGER CAKE. 

I tablespoon of lard, 1 teaspoon of baking-soda, dissolved in 
1 cup of very thick sour cream, a little warm water, 

1 gill of "A" or "C" sugar, 2 eggs, 

1 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon, 3 gills of molasses, 

About ■$% cups of sifted flour, 1 teaspoon of Royal baking-powder, 

1 teaspoon of ground ginger. 

Mix all well together, adding the baking-powder with the 
last cup of flour. After that, beat hard for 1 minute or 2. 
Have ready deep pans, lined with well-greased paper ; fill 
|~full with the batter, and bake in a moderate oven 20 to 30 
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. 

N. B. — A quick oven will make gingerbread heavy. 

MOLASSES CAKE. 

2 cups of molasses, 1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in warm 
Ground ginger and cloves to taste, water, 

2,%. cups of sifted flour, 1 cup of butter, 

I teaspoon of cream of tartar, 1 " "milk, 

4 eggs. 

Mix all together, adding soda last. Beat well ; pour into 
pans lined with greased paper, and bake in a slow oven. Do 
not fill the pans more than 1 inch deep, and bake 20 to 30 
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. Two teaspoons of 
Royal baking-powder may be substituted for the cream 
of tartar and soda. 

GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUTTER OR EGGS. 

1 gill of lard, 1 cup of molasses, 

1 cup of sour milk, 2 teaspoons of ground ginger, 

1 teaspoon of baking-soda, Flour. 

Put the molasses, lard, and ginger on the fire. When 
warmed, and the lard has melted, beat for 10 minutes. 
Dissolve the soda in a few drops of boiling water. Mix 
it and the milk with the molasses ; then add enough flour to 
make a stiff batter. Beat well. Have ready a greased drip- 
ping-pan. Pour in the mixture, and bake 10 minutes in a 

quick oven. This quantity will fill a 10 x 15-inch pan about 
26 



402 GOOD-LIVING. 

\\ inches deep. It does not bake well if too deep. Test 
with a broom-whisp. Recommended as being excellent. 

COCOA-NUT LOAF-CAKE. 

% pound of butter, Juice and grated rind of i lemon, 

2 gills of milk, % pound of " A " sugar, 

i heaping teaspoon of baking-powder, ^ " " flour, 
2 full cups of grated cocoa-nut, 5 eggs, 

}£ grated nutmeg, no more. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; add the yolks, and beat very 
light ; mix in the milk, then flour and lemon, and beat well. 
Stir in the cocoa-nut. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Sift 
over them the baking-powder. Add these at the last mo- 
ment, and mix lightly but thoroughly. Have ready 2 loaf- 
pans, lined with very thin paper well greased with lard. 
Divide the batter between the 2, filling not more than 
f-full. Bake in a moderately-quick oven for 45 minutes 
to 1 hour. If it browns too quickly, cover with thick paper. 
Do not let it bake rapidly enough to crack the cake, or it 
will not be light. For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf- 
Cake. When it is thoroughly done, remove from the oven ; 
cover the top with fresh grated cocoa-nut and sifted powdered 
sugar. Set on a sieve to cool. Handle very carefully. Re- 
move the paper when cool. Delicious. 

COCOA-NUT LA YER CAKE NO. L 

Take 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. (see receipt) ; lay 1 on 
a plate, with the under-side uppermost. Spread over this a 
layer of Ice-Cream Filling (see receipt). Over this spread a 
thick layer of grated cocoa-nut ; then the second layer of cake, 
with the top uppermost. Spread this also with Ice-Cream 
Filling, made a little stiffer with sugar ; or use Egg-Icing. 
Pack the top all over with grated cocoa-nut, covering sides 
and all, so that nothing shows but the white of the cocoa-nut. 
Set away for 2 hours ; transfer very carefully to a plate, on 
which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recommended. 

Or, use Cocoa-nut Filling (see receipt). 



PHILADELPHIA WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. 403 

COCOA-NUT LA YER CAKE NO. II. 

Proceed exactly as for Cocoa-nut Layer Cake No. L, 
spreading first a moderately-thick coating of very good 
currant-jelly upon the cake, then the filling and cocoa-nut as 
described. Finish as directed. Recommended. Or use 
Cocoa-nut Filling (see receipt). 

PHILADELPHIA WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. 

1 1 ounces of powdered sugar, j4, pound of flour, 

3 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, 5 eggs, 

Juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1 gill of sherry, 

% teaspoon of ground mace, 2 gills of milk, 

3 ounces of corn-starch, 6 ounces of butter, 
1 teaspoon of vanilla. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; add the yolks 
of eggs, and beat as light as possible. Add vanilla, lemon, 
and mace. Beat the whites of eggs to a very stiff froth ; add 
them gradually and alternately with the milk to the batter. 
Sift the corn-starch and baking-powder together, and add 
them gradually to the mixture, beating quickly all the time ; 
then pour into 3 large jelly-cake tins and bake in a quick 
oven about 10 to 12 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp ; if 
it comes out dry, the cake is done. Turn the layers out on 
a board ; then turn them back again to bring the upper-side 
on top. 

N. B. — If you use Royal baking-powder, 2 heaping tea- 
spoonfuls will suffice ; of Cleveland's, use the quantity 
named. 

FILLING FOR SAME. 
Whites of 2 eggs, yi pound of powdered sugar, 

1 gill of boiling water, 1 teaspoon of vanilla. 

Boil the sugar and water together until it forms a thread 
when dropped from the spoon. The whites of eggs must be 
beaten, meanwhile, as stiff as possible. Put them into a 
small bowl (a i-quart bowl will do), and, when the syrup 
has reached the proper point, take it off instantly and beat 
the syrup into the whites of eggs with a Dover egg-beater, 



404 GOOD-LIVING. 

adding the former by degrees. Continue to beat steadily 
until perfectly cold. This point may be attained more 
quickly by standing the bowl near an open window, or by 
setting it in a pan with a small piece of ice ; but beat contin- 
ually. In testing this receipt, it is found that the amount of 
filling given makes only enough for 2 layers of medium size. 
It is therefore recommended to use the same proportions, 
that is : 1 white of egg, % a gill of water, and \ pound of 
powdered sugar for each additional layer. The filling should 
be very thick between the layers of cake ; at least \ an 
inch thick. If the sugar has been boiled to the exact degree 
(wherein lies the one difficulty of making it in perfection) 
the filling will be as smooth and mellow as whipped cream 
and stiff enough to hold itself in shape like thick meringue. 
Spread the filling between the layers of cake, and finish the 
top with a little sifted, powdered sugar. Dexter, of Phila- 
delphia, is famous for the above cake. The secret of the 
perfection of his manufacture is not divulged, but this is a 
very good imitation. 

VERY LIGHT PLAIN CAKE. 

1 y z cups of " A " sugar (the " A " is essential), Lemon or vanilla extract to taste, 

1 cup of butter, 3 eggs, 

2 teaspoons of Royal baking-powder, 1 cup of cold water, 

3 cups of sifted flour. 

Mix all together, the baking-powder with the last cup of 
flour. Pour into pans lined with greased paper, and bake 15 
to 30 minutes, according to size. If it browns too quickly, 
cover with a paper. Test with a broom-whisp. For directions 
for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. Recommended. 

DAINTY CAKES. 

Bake the batter for Plain Cake in gem-pans for 10 to 12 
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. When cold, cover with 
Lemon Icing made without eggs (see receipt). Delicious. 






CREAM PUFFS. 405 

LA YER CAKE NO. L 

Make the batter as for Plain Cake ; bake it in jelly-cake 
tins. In a quick oven it will require only about 6 or 8 min- 
utes. Test with a broom-whisp. When cold, spread with 
jelly, marmalade, or filling to taste (see receipts). Ice the 
top, or sift powdered sugar over it. 

LADY CAKE. 

1 pound of sugar, ^ pound of butter, 
^ " " flour, Whites of 10 eggs. 

Mix, adding lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. 
Flavor with extract of bitter almond and rose-water. Bake 
in 1 or 2 loaves. Line the tins with thin, greased paper. 
For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. When cold, 
ice the tops (see receipts). 

CREAM PUFFS. 

CHOUX A LA CREME. 

2 gills of boiling water, 1 saltspoon of soda, 
1 large cup of flour, 3^" pound of butter, 

5 eggs. 

Stir the butter into the boiling water over the fire. Then 
stir in the flour until perfectly blended and cooked, and the 
paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Remove from the 
fire and beat in, 1 by 1, the eggs, turning always one way. 
Dissolve the soda in a few drops of boiling water, and add it 
to the paste ; beat well. Butter a sheet of tin and drop the 
batter upon it, 1 tablespoonful for each puff. Do not let 
them touch. Bake in a quick oven about 1 5 minutes. When 
done, make an opening in the side with a sharp knife and 
fill with a custard made of : 

1 quart of milk, boiling, 5 eggs, well beaten, 

3 tablespoons of corn-starch, Vanilla to flavor. 



406 GOOD-LIVING. 

Rub up the corn-starch in a little cold water ; add it to the 
boiling milk. Stir and boil for 3 minutes. Remove, and beat 
it into a bowl in which the eggs have been mixed. Stir, and 
sweeten to taste. Return to the fire, over boiling water ; stir 
for a few minutes, but do not boil, or the eggs will curdle. 
Or, use the paste given for Coffee Eclairs. Bake and finish 
as above. 

COFFEE ECLAIRS. 

ECLAIRS AU CAFE. 

1 ounce of butter, 2^ ounces of flour, 

6 tablespoons of water, 4 eggs, 

% pound of sugar, Whipped cream, > of Coffee Fm . 

1 gill of strong coffee, Coffee, ' 

Put the butter in a saucepan on the fire with 6 tablespoons 
of boiling water. When beginning to boil, add the flour 
(about the quantity indicated, perhaps a pinch more). Stir 
with a wooden spoon 3 minutes, or until it leaves the sides 
of the saucepan and is very stiff. Remove, and add, 1 at 
a time, the eggs, stirring each in very thoroughly. Have 
ready, slightly greased, an eclair-pan (they can be had made 
of sheet-iron, and are very good). Set in a quick oven for 
about 15 minutes. Watch very carefully, as, if the oven is 
too hot, they may scorch. They must not brown. When 
done, make an incision in the side of each and fill with 
sweetened, whipped cream flavored with coffee, or with 
Coffee Filling (see receipt). 

Icing : Put into a china-lined saucepan the sugar and 1 gill 
of very strong, good coffee ; a mixture of Mocha and Java is 
best. Boil it until it makes a thread when dropped from the 
spoon. Drop a little into a cup of cold water ; take it be- 
tween thumb and finger, and, if it makes a fine thread with- 
out breaking, it is ready. Remove from the fire and stir 
until it begins to thicken slightly ; then coat each Eclair 
with it. 






MACAROONS. 407 

KISSES. 

MERINGUES. 

Whites of 4 eggs, 9 ounces of granulated sugar. 

Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, then stir the sugar in very 
gently. Have ready a board about 1 inch thick, which will 
fit in your oven. Cover the board with white paper. With 
a tablespoon, put upon this the mixture in any shape you 
fancy ; the shape of a large half-egg is the best. Set the 
board in a slow oven, and bake slowly ; on this depends a 
great part of the success of making good kisses. They 
should be at least 1 hour in the oven, and should become 
quite hard to the touch, without being more than a pale, 
light brown. If they show signs of browning too much or too 
soon, cover with thick paper. When done, detach them 
from the paper with a knife, and put them together in pairs. 
Or, they may be baked in sections about 4 inches long, and, 
when done, the flat sides may be slightly excavated, filled 
with ice-cream, then joined together, and served as Mfringnes 
Glares. 

COCOA-NUT MACAROONS. 

3 whites of eggs, %, pound of desiccated cocoa-nut, or 

1 teaspoon of extract of bitter almonds, allow same bulk of fresh, grated, 

2 gills of rolled and sifted crackers, l / z pound of powdered sugar. 

Beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Mix all the ingredients 
together and bake in drops on a well-greased paper on tin, 
in a very moderate oven, until firm and light-brown, 15 to 
20 minutes. 

N. B. — The extract of bitter almonds should measure I 
even teaspoonful. 

MACAROONS. 

MACARONS. 

1 pound of sweet almonds, Rose-water, 

I " " fine sugar, 7 whites of eggs. 

Blanch ; skin the almonds, and pound to a paste in a mor- 
tar, adding a little rose-water by degrees. Add the sugar 



408 GOOD-LIVING. 

and whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop on well- 
greased paper ; sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a moderate 
oven until light brown. 

LAYER CAKE NO. II. 

3 e gg s > beaten whites and yolks apart, Lemon-rind and vanilla to taste, 

2 cups of sifted flour, % teaspoon of ground mace may be 
i l /z cups of "A" sugar (essential), added, 

I heaping teaspoon of Royal baking- i cup of butter, 

powder, I " " milk. 

Cream butter and sugar together ; add yolks and flavor- 
ing. Beat well. Add milk ; the flour which has been sifted 
with the baking-powder, and lastly the whites of eggs, 
beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on well-greased jelly-tins in a 
quick oven about 6 or 8 minutes. This will make 6 medium- 
sized layers. Recommended. 

WINE CAKE. 

Layer Cake No. II., Currant-jelly, 

Sherry, Powdered sugar, 

Spread I layer of cake with the jelly. Cover it with a second 
layer of cake. Make the icing as directed (see receipt for 
Wine Icing). Set away to harden. Then transfer to a plate 
on which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recommended. 

COFFEE LAYER CAKE. 

Layer Cake No. II., Coffee Icing, 

Coffee Filling. 

Lay i layer of cake on a plate with the upper-side down ; 
spread thickly with Coffee Filling (see receipt). Cover with 
a second layer of cake ; spread this with Coffee Icing (see 
receipt). Set away for I or 2 hours. Then transfer to a 
plate on which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recom- 
mended. 

ORANGE LAYER CAKE. 

Make 4 layers of Layer Cake No. II. (see receipt), grating 
into the batter the rind of 1 orange. Prepare a Custard 






SMALL POUND-CAKES. 409 

Filling (see receipt) flavored with the rind of 1 and juice of 
2 oranges. When cold, place this between the layers of 
cake. Make an icing of the strained juice of 1 orange, into 
which beat powdered sugar until just thick enough to spread 
over the top of the cake. Let it stand half an hour, and 
add a second layer of icing, if liked. Decorate with glac6d 
oranges and cherries. Recommended. 

LA YER CAKE A U RHUM, OR KLRSCH. 

Prepare 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. Lay 1 layer on a 
plate with the upper-side down. Spread it thickly with rasp- 
berry-and-currant jelly or with cider jelly (the jelly must be 
a little tart). Put the second layer over this. Make an icing 
of 1 gill of Jamaica rum or kirsch, with powdered sugar 
beaten into it until just thick enough to spread. Cover with 
this and set away. After \ an hour, a second layer of icing 
may be added if liked. Recommended. 

WALNUT CAKE. 

Make 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. Lay 1 layer on a plate 
with the upper-side down ; spread it with a thick coating of 
Ice-Cream Filling (see receipt). Upon this place shelled and 
skinned walnuts. Cover with a second layer of cake. Spread 
with a second layer of filling, and sprinkle all over the top, 
very neatly, the nuts prepared in the same way. 

HAZEL-NUT CAKE. 

Proceed as for Walnut Cake, substituting hazel-nuts shelled, 
skinned, and split. 

SMALL POUND-CAKES. 

3 eggs, Their weight in butter, 

Their weight in sugar, Juice and grated rind of ^ a lemon, 

" " "flour, 1 ounce of Preserved Lemon Peel (see receipt). 

Cream the butter and sugar, beating thoroughly (this may 
be done with the hand). Add the yolks of eggs and beat 



4IO GOOD-LIVING. 

until very light. Beat the whites to a dry froth and add 
them and the flour alternately. Add the lemon-juice and 
rind and the preserved peel cut into small bits. Beat hard 
for several minutes until very light. Have ready well-greased 
gem or patty-pans. Fill them f-full of the mixture and bake 
in a moderately-quick oven 1 5 to 20 minutes. Test with a 
broom-whisp. Set on an inverted sieve to cool. Ice the top 
with Lemon Icing, if liked. 



PROMISES. 

1 pound of sifted flour, i egg, 

6 ounces of sugar, }( pound of butter, 

yi cup of rum or sherry. 

Mix together the egg, sugar, and butter, then add the 
flour; mix evenly; then add the rum or sherry. When 
mixed to an even dough, about as stiff as soft putty, lay a 
lump of it in a large baking-pan, and, with the hand, press it 
out as thin as possible, not more than -| to \ of an inch thick. 
This is a little tedious, but rolling does not accomplish at all 
the same results. If you keep a plate of flour near by, and 
dip your hand into it now and again, it will be easier. It is 
worth the trouble, being a most delicious cake, and not at all 
common. When the bottom of the pan is covered, sift over 
the dough some powdered sugar mixed with a little pinch of 
ground cinnamon. Bake in a moderately-quick oven until 
the edges are quite brown and the rest pale yellow, like deli- 
cate pie-crust. Remove it from the oven. Take immediately 
a sharp knife and cut through the cake the length of the pan, 
then cut it across in strips about 1 inch wide. Take these 
out carefully, as they break easily, and lay on a platter. 
They will harden as they get cold. As the above quantity 
makes a large number of cakes, it will be much quicker to 
have several pans in use at a time. Dish the cakes on 
cut paper in a pile, placing layers of 4 at right angles. Serve 
with tea or coffee. Highly recommended. 






OLD-FA SHIONED JUMBLES. 4 1 1 

VITEMENT FAIT. 

2 eggs, Flour, 

Pinch of salt, Butter, 

Sugar. 

To the egg and salt, add enough flour to make a dough 
just sufficiently stiff to roll out as thin as a chamois-skin. 
Lay this upon shallow tins. Put small lumps of butter over 
the top ; sift sugar over all, and bake in a quick oven about 
3 to 5 minutes, or until very slightly browned. Powdered 
cinnamon may be added to the sugar according to taste. 
When removed from the oven, and still hot, cut or break 
into more or less even pieces. As it cools, it will become per- 
fectly firm and crisp. 

JUMBLES. 

% pound of butter, % nutmeg, grated, 

j£ " " powdered sugar, 3 eggs, 

3^ " " sifted flour, I tablespoon of rose-water, 

Cream together butter and sugar ; beat eggs together ; add 
them to the butter ; then add rose-water and nutmeg ; lastly, 
add the flour. Dust the bread-board with granulated sugar ; 
roll out the mixture -|- of an inch thick ; cut with a round cut- 
ter ; take the centre out with the top of the pepper-caster ; 
bake these rings in a moderate oven until the edges brown 
slightly. Or, when done, draw the pan to the mouth of the 
oven ; brush over the cake with white of egg and sift with very 
coarse sugar. If this is done, the cakes should be rolled out 
on a floured board. 

Old-fashioned jumbles. 

I pound of flour, i/j pound of butter, 

4 yolks of eggs, 2 whites of eggs, beaten light, 

Y^ pound of sugar. 

Mix ; roll out very thin on a board covered with granu- 
lated sugar ; cut in rounds and bake in tins in a quick oven. 



412 GOOD-LIVING. 

COCOA-NUT DROPS. 

Equal parts of grated cocoa-nut and 6 whites of eggs to every pound of 
granulated sugar, the mixture. 

Beat the whites to a stiff froth ; mix with sugar and 
cocoa-nut. Drop on buttered tins. Bake in a very moder- 
ate oven until very slightly browned. 

CRISP COOKIES WITHOUT SODA. 

I pound of sugar, I pound of flour, 

% " " butter, 5 eggs, 

% grated nutmeg. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; add yolks. Beat until light. 
Beat the whites to a stiff froth and beat them in with the 
flour and nutmeg. Roll thin on a floured board ; cut in 
rounds and bake in a quick oven for about 5 minutes. 

WALNUT WAFERS. 

2 gills of brown sugar, ]/^ teaspoon of salt, 

2 " " shelled walnuts, 3 even tablespoons of flour, 

2 eggs. 

Beat the eggs together ; add sugar, salt, and flour, then 
the walnuts. If not quite stiff enough, add a little more 
flour. Drop in small heaps on well-greased paper and bake 
in a quick oven until brown, about 5 minutes. Excellent. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

3 pounds of sifted flour, 1 pound of butter, 
]4, pound of sugar, 1 quart of molasses, 

1 y 2 ounces of ground ginger, 3 teaspoons of baking-soda, 

2 " " " cinnamon, 2 " " tartaric acid, 

2 ounces of ground allspice. 

Strain the molasses. Cream together butter and sugar, 
and add all the other ingredients, the soda dissolved in a 
few drops of boiling water ; add the tartaric acid lastly with 
the flour. Use as little extra flour for board and rolling-pin 
as may be convenient. Roll as thin as possible ; cut in 



DROP CAKES. 413 

rounds and bake in a quick oven 3 to 5 minutes. Do not 
bake too long, as all ginger snaps easily acquire a burned 
taste if very much browned. Watch closely, as they scorch 
easily. The above ginger snaps are recommended, being 
very delicate, brittle, and at the same time rich. 

NOBBY BUNS. 

2 pounds of sifted flour, I pound of butter, 

4 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, 6 eggs, 

J X pounds of sugar. 

Mix the cinnamon through the flour. Work the butter to 
a cream and mix it with the flour. Beat together sugar and 
eggs ; then mix all as quickly as possible. Handle as little 
as you can. Have ready flat sheets of tin, well greased. 
Drop the mixture in rough, jagged heaps by the spoonful, 
and bake in a moderately-quick oven until the edges and 
points are nicely browned. 

DROP CAKES. 

I pound of flour, less 3 level tablespoonfuls, 5 eggs, 

1 " " sugar, }£ pound of butter, 

% " "currants, 2 gills of sweet milk, 

J^ teaspoon of soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar, or i)4 teaspoons 

baking-powder. 

Sift flour, soda, and cream of tartar together through a fine 
sieve (or baking-powder, if you use that). Cream together 
butter and sugar ; add a little of the milk and mix. Now 
add the yolks of eggs and beat well ; then add alternately 
milk, beaten whites of eggs, and flour. Grease flat tins ; 
drop the batter on them in separate spoonfuls. Have the 
currants cleaned (see receipt To Clean Currants) and sprinkle 
a few over the top of each cake. Set in a quick oven and 
bake a rich brown. The cakes will run together, but must 
be broken apart when taken from the oven. Cool them on 
a sieve. The batter for this cake is said to keep I week in 
a cool place. 



414 GOOD-LIVING. 

MADELEINES. 

% pound of powdered sugar, ]/ z pound of sifted flour, 

Grated rind of I lemon, 4 eggs, 

^ pound of butter, slightly softened, i]4 teaspoons of vanilla. 

Cream together the butter and sugar ; add yolks, lemon- 
rind, and vanilla, and beat hard until very light. Then add 
flour, and, lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Mix 
them in lightly but thoroughly. Butter gem-pans or tin 
shells ; fill |-full of the mixture and bake in a quick oven 
for about 10 minutes. Watch carefully and brown evenly. 
Test with a broom-whisp. When it comes out perfectly 
dry, the cakes are done. Serve as soon as they are cool. If 
kept until next day, they must be shut in an air-tight tin or 
stood in the ice-box ; but they should be eaten fresh, and 
will be found most excellent. This receipt will make about 
24 small cakes. 

QUEEN CAKES. 

1 pound of sifted flour, 1 pound of sugar, 

%" " " butter, 6 yolks of eggs, 

8 whites of eggs, 1 gill of sherry, 

1 gill of rose-water, }4 " " brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar together ; beat the yolks to a 
cream and add them to the butter and sugar. Add wine, 
rose-water, and brandy. Add, alternately, the whites, beaten 
to a stiff froth, and the flour. Stir only just enough to mix. 
Bake in small, greased gem-pans in a moderately-quick oven 
10 or 12 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. When done, 
cool on an inverted sieve, and ice. 

CRULLERS. 

4 tablespoons of sugar, Lard for frying, 

5 " " melted lard (measured when 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 
melted), 3 eggs, 

Sifted flour for soft dough, Powdered sugar. 

Beat the eggs together with the sugar and cinnamon ; add 
the lard, and flour enough to make a dough just stiff enough 



CHARLOTTE-RUSSE CAKE. 415 

to roll out \ an inch thick ; do not add any more than 
what will enable you to handle it. Cut the paste into nar- 
row strips ; tie the strips in bows, or loops, or any shape 
your fancy may suggest. Have ready on the fire a deep 
saucepan or kettle with at least 3 inches of melted lard. It 
should be deep enough to float the crullers, so that they 
may have space to swell without touching the bottom. 
Bring it gradually to a boil. Test it (see General Direc- 
tions for Frying). When certain that it does boil, pro- 
ceed to fry the crullers. Have at hand a clean skimmer, 
a large sheet of brown paper on a tin in the open mouth 
of the oven, and the sugar. When every thing is ready, 
take a plateful at a time of the crullers ; drop them 
carefully into the lard. Watch them, and turn them over 
with the skimmer until golden-brown on all sides ; then 
drain them out with the skimmer and lay on the brown 
paper ; as soon as dry, transfer to a platter and powder 
generously with sugar. Do not let them brown too much 
in the cooking. If not too stiff with flour, these will be 
found very light, crisp, and most excellent. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

\ x / z cups of sugar, 1^ cups of sweet milk, 

2 tablespoons of melted lard, 2 eggs, 

2 teaspoons of baking-powder, Salt and nutmeg to taste. 

Mix all together, adding just enough flour to roll out half 
an inch thick. Cut in rounds with a small tin cutter, and 
drop into deep boiling lard. See receipt for Crullers, which 
are cooked in the same way. 

CHARLOTTE-RUSSE CAKE. 

2 ounces of butter, 2 whites of eggs, beaten to a froth, 

2 " " sifted flour, 2 ounces of powdered sugar, 

2 yolks of eggs. 

Mix, adding the beaten whites of eggs last. Bake in 2 
shallow biscuit-tins, the batter being about \ an inch 
thick. This is sufficient to line a quart mould of Charlotte 
Russe. 



416 GOOD-LIVING. 

HENRIETTAS. 

3 e gg s > beaten whites and yolks apart. Pinch of ground cinnamon. 

I scant teaspoon of baking-powder, I tablespoon of brandy, 

^ cup of milk or cream, Salt (pinch), 

Mix all the above ingredients, and add, lastly, just enough 
flour to roll out easily. Roll as thin as a wafer ; cut 2x2 
inches square ; fry in boiling lard (see General Directions 
for Frying). When gold-color, drain ; sprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar and serve for tea. 

WASHINGTON PIE. 

I cup of "A" sugar, I teaspoon of baking-soda and 2 

3 cups of sifted flour, of cream of tartar, or 2 tea- 

I egg, spoons of baking-powder, 

i cup of sweet milk, i large tablespoon of butter. 

Cream together sugar and butter; add egg; then milk; then 
flour sifted with the cream of tartar ; lastly, soda dissolved 
in a few drops of boiling water. (Or use instead baking- 
powder, sifting it with the flour.) Beat hard for I or 2 
minutes. Bake in jelly-tins in a quick oven 6 to 8 minutes. 
Fill 2 layers with Custard Filling flavored with vanilla (see 
receipt) ; sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold. The 
remaining layers may be filled with jelly, etc., to taste. 

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 

I gill of butter, 1 pint of huckleberries, 

3 teaspoons of baking-powder, r cup of "C" sugar, 

Pinch of nutmeg, 3 cups of flour, or about, 

$£ cup of milk. 

Rub together sugar and butter to a cream. Mix in the 
nutmeg and milk. Now mix some of the flour with the 
berries ; shake until coated, and set aside. Mix the baking- 
powder with the remaining flour. Add it to the batter. 
At the last moment stir in the berries, very lightly, not to 
mash them. Have ready gem-pans greased with lard. Fill 



KAFFEE KUCHEN. 417 

|-full of batter. Set in a moderately-quick oven 20 to 
30 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp, and when done 
serve hot for tea. 

CHEESE-CAKES, 

\)/ 2 cups of cottage cheese, 2 tablespoons of cream, 

1 gill of soft sugar, 1 teaspoon of melted butter, 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 eggs. 

Press the cheese (see Schmier-Kase) through a colander. 
Beat the eggs together until smooth. Add these and all 
the other ingredients to the cheese. Beat smooth. Have 
ready 1 pie-dish or several small patty-pans lined with Flaky 
Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts) ; fill with the cheese 
and bake in a quick oven 25 to 30 minutes for the large 
dish, or 12 to 15 for the small tins. 

KAFFEE KUCHEN. 

1 pound of risen dough ready for the oven, 2 whites of eggs, 
4 ounces of sugar, I egg, 

2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 

24 almonds. 

Cream the butter and beat it well with the sugar and egg. 
Work this with the hand into the dough very thoroughly. 
Set m a warm place to rise. When light, pour it into a 
small dripping-pan that has been well greased. (When 
baked, it should not be more than f of an inch thick.) Let 
it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Put it in a moderately-quick 
oven, and while it is baking, prepare the icing. The cake 
should bake from 20 to 30 minutes, according to the heat 
of the oven. Blanch the almonds and cut them in little 
strips. Beat the 2 whites of eggs slightly, then add the 
powdered sugar by degrees, and beat until stiff and glossy. 
When the cake is done, draw it to the door of the oven ; 
spread it with the icing ; stick it all over with the almonds ; 
or stir them into the icing before spreading it. Leave it in 
the open oven door until dry ; or set it in the oven for 2 
27 



41 8 GOOD-LIVING. 

or 3 minutes until the almonds are a little browned. Watch 
it, that it may not scorch. 

N. B. — It will be noticed that the icing should be only 
about \ as thick of sugar as usual. 

APPLE CHEESE-CAKES (ENGLISH). 

8 ounces of apple-pulp, Rind and juice of I lemon, 

4 ounces of butter, melted, 4 ounces of sifted sugar, 

4 eggs. 

Pare, core, and boil enough apples to make \ a pound 
when pressed through a coarse sieve. Add the sugar, butter, 
and the eggs, leaving out 2 whites ; add the juice and 
grated rind of the lemon. Stir and mix well. Line small 
patty-pans with Flaky Crust (see receipt) ; fill with the 
mixture, and bake in a quick oven 15 or 20 minutes. 




ICINGS AND FILLINGS FOR CAKES. 



APRICOT OR PEACH FILLING. 

Peel the apricots or peaches, and cut in thin slices ; beat 
the whites of 2 eggs until light ; then add gradually 4 table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar and beat hard until it will 
stand alone. Put a layer of this upon the layer of cake, then 
a layer of the fruit ; another layer of cake on top of this ; 
repeat for as many layers as you have ; dust the top with 
sugar, and serve. 

CHOCOLATE FILLING. 

Melt 4 ounces of grated chocolate over boiling water. 
Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a foam ; add gradually 4 table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, beating all the while. Beat 
until stiff enough to stand alone ; then add the chocolate 
gradually, beating always. Fill the cake with this, and ice 
the top with Chocolate Icing (see receipt). Or, add to the 
melted chocolate 4 ounces of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of 
vanilla, omitting eggs. 

COCOA-NUT FILLING. 

Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a foam ; add gradually 4 table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until it will stand 
alone. Spread a layer of this and of grated cocoa-nut between 
the layers of cake. Finish the top also with a layer of egg 
and a thick coating of grated cocoa-nut. 
419 



420 GOOD-LIVING. 

LEMON- C US TA RD FILLING. 

1 cup of boiling water, Juice and grated rind of I lemon, 

2 heaping teaspoons of corn-starch, I gill of sugar, 

2 eggs. 

Bring the sugar, water, and lemon, juice and rind, to a 
boil. Blend the corn-starch with a few drops of cold water. 
Stir it into the boiling water and stir while it boils 2 or 3 
minutes. Beat the eggs in a bowl, and when the water and 
lemon are boiling, stir them gradually into the eggs, stirring 
briskly. If not quite thick enough, set over boiling water, 
and stir for a few minutes until the eggs set a little. Do 
not let it boil, or it will curdle. Do not let it thicken too 
much, as it stiffens when cold. 

ORANGE-CUSTARD FILLING. 

Proceed exactly as for Lemon-Custard Filling, substituting 
1 orange for the lemon. 

ALMOND-PASTE FILLING. 

Yi. pound of sweet almonds, Sifted powdered sugar, 

1 ounce of bitter almonds, White of 1 egg, 

Rose-water to taste. 

Blanch the almonds and pound to a paste in a mortar, 
adding now and again a few drops of rose-water to avoid 
oiling. Mix with an equal weight of sugar. Moisten with 
the white of egg ; allow it to dry slightly, and then spread 
on thin layers of cake cut into neat shapes ; or use as filling 
for Archangel Cake, etc. 

COFFEE FILLING. 

Make a cupful of strong black coffee, Mocha and Java 
mixed ; add to this a little cream, about 1 tablespoonful, 
and ^ a cup of sugar. Bring to a boil and stir into it 2 
heaping teaspoonfuls of corn-starch blended with a little cold 
coffee. Have 2 eggs beaten in a bowl. When the coffee 
has boiled 3 minutes, stirring all the while, pour it gradually 



COFFEE ICING. 42 1 

upon the eggs, stirring briskly. If not quite thick enough, 
set over boiling water on the fire, and stir until the egg sets 
a little. Do not boil, or it will curdle. Pour this over the 
layer of cake, placing another layer on top, and so on. Fin- 
ish the top with Coffee Icing (see receipt). The custard 
must not be too thick, as it will harden in cooling. 

CUSTARD FILLING. 

Proceed exactly as above, substituting milk for coffee, 
and using any flavoring that may be preferred. 

ICE-CREAM FILLING. 

2 whites of eggs, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 

Flavoring. 

Beat the whites until only foamy, then beat in the sugar 
by degrees and beat until smooth, stiff, and glossy. It 
should be as stiff as meringue, not as stiff as icing. The 
same may be used for the top of the cake also. 

LEMON ICING. 

Squeeze and strain the juice of a lemon ; stir into it, by 
degrees, enough sugar to enable you to spread the icing. 
Having covered the top of the cake, set away for 1 or 2 
hours in a cool place. If a deeper icing is required, after 
the cake has stood for a few minutes, add a second layer. 
Recommended. 

RUM, BRANDY, KIRSCH ICING. 

For a moderate-sized cake, take about 1 gill of either of 
the above ; beat in powdered sugar until thick enough to 
spread. Cover the cake. Set away for 1 or 2 hours in a 
cool place. If a thicker icing is wanted, after \ an hour spread 
a second layer over the first. Recommended. 

COFFEE ICING. 

Take a gill of very strong, well cleared and strained coffee ; 
stir into it powdered sugar until thick enough to spread. 



422 GOOD-LIVIKG. 

Cover the cake and set away for I or 2 hours in a cool place. 
If a thicker icing is wanted, add a second layer. Recom- 
mended. 

ORANGE ICING. 
See Lemon and other icings. 

EGG ICING. 

1 pound of sugar, Whites of 3 eggs, 

Flavoring. 

Beat the whites only until frothy, not stiff, or the icing 
will take longer to dry. Add the sugar gradually, beating 
all the while. Flavor to taste with lemon, orange, vanilla, 
etc., adding, however, very little liquid, or more sugar will 
be required. When stiff enough, dip a knife in cold water 
and smooth the icing over the cake. This is sufficient to 
cover a good-sized cake. 

CREAM ICING. 

1 pound of powdered sugar, 1 gill of boiling water, 

Whites of 3 eggs. 

Boil the sugar and water for 6 minutes, or until it makes a 
thread when poured from the spoon. While the sugar boils, 
beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Put them into a bowl, and 
when the syrup reaches the desired point, pour it in a fine 
stream upon the eggs while you beat with a Dover egg- 
beater. When thick enough to spread, dip a knife in cold 
water and smooth the icing over the cake. It will have to 
be beaten until almost, if not quite, cold. 

WINE ICING. 
For a moderate-sized cake, take I gill of wine ; stir into it 
enough powdered sugar to make it thick enough to spread ; 
smooth it over the cake and set it away for an hour or more 
in a cool, dry place. If a thicker icing is required, add a 
second layer. This system is strongly recommended, as 
being very simple and a great saving of time. See Lemon 
Icing, etc. 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS. 

PUFF-PASTE. 

PATE FEUILLETEE. 

I pound of dry sifted flour, i pound of freshest butter, 

I egg, Ice-water, about I gill. 

As the manipulation of puff-paste is the most important 
point in its manufacture, it is rather difficult to reach success 
through a recipe alone ; if you cannot see it made once by a 
first-class hand, you will have to gain your own experience 
by patient practice. A receipt can, after all, only give a 
certain amount of assistance towards success : in this case 
much depends upon the cook. First of all, the flour must 
be dry and of the best quality ; the butter should be washed 
and set away until as cold and firm as ice ; ice-water should 
be used in the mixing ; it should be made in as cool a place 
as possible, and rolled on a marble slab. When all is ready, 
cut the butter in 4 equal parts. Put the flour in a mound in 
a bowl ; make a hole in the centre, break in the egg and 
work it in, handling very little and lightly. Add just enough 
ice-water to make the paste soft enough to roll out. Flour 
the board and pin with a little extra flour, and roll out the 
paste quite thin. Take £ of the butter, break it up in 
bits ; dot these over the surface of the paste ; dredge them 
very lightly with a little extra flour, and fold the paste over 
from the sides to the centre, then in 3. Turn |-way round 
and roll this again until quite thin ; add the second % of 
butter broken in bits as before ; dredge with flour ; fold as 
before and roll always in the same direction — from you ; 
423 



424 GOOD-LIVING. 

dredge again. Repeat this process, turning |-way each 
time, until all the butter is in. After the last rolling, fold it 
again and cut it with a floured knife into 3 parts. Lay 
these on plates and set in the ice-box for an hour or more, 
until perfectly firm. It is now ready for use. For pies, it 
should be rolled out about £ of an inch thick for the top ; the 
edges should have 1 or 2 extra layers of paste. It is best to 
make the under-crust of Flaky Crust or Good Plain Paste 
rolled thin, and keep the puff-paste for the upper crust and 
edges, where it can rise better. This paste does for vol-au- 
vents, small pates, etc., etc. For these latter, it is advisable, 
when the empty shell is baked, to draw it to the mouth 
of the oven, brush the top over with beaten egg, and set it 
back for 1 minute or 2 to brown. The oven should always 
be very hot and very even for baking puff, or indeed any, 
paste. Do not set the pie-plate too near the inner, or fire, 
side of the oven, or it will bake unevenly, one side rising 
higher than the other. 

The raw paste may be kept for 24 hours in the ice-box ; 
but once baked, it must not be placed near the ice, or it will 
become tough beyond correction. 

N. B. — The egg may be omitted if desired, but is consid- 
ered a good addition. 

FLAKY PIE-CRUST. 

1 pound of sifted flour, 9 ounces of butter, 

7 ounces of good firm lard, )/ 2 teaspoon of salt, 

2 gills of ice-water. 

This quantity will make 3 pies of ordinary size. Rub the 
butter and flour lightly but firmly together, being careful to 
keep the flour always between the lard and the hand. Add 
the water, mixing with a knife. Place the paste on a floured 
board, using a very little extra flour ; roll it into a thin 
sheet ; dot it all over with \ of the butter ; dredge a little 
extra flour over it, and, with the hands touching as little as 
possible, roll it up like a sheet of music. Divide it in 2. 
Divide one of the halves into 3 parts for the bottom crust ; 



POTATO PASTRY. 425 

roll these out, and cover the pie-plates. Now roll the 
remaining paste into a thin sheet. Dot it over with \ the 
remaining butter; sift a little flour over it ; lap the 4 corners 
toward the centre ; roll again thin ; dot with the. remaining 
butter ; dredge with flour ; fold as before, but do not roll out 
quite as thin. Roll into a thick scroll. To cover each 
pie, cut \ of the scroll, flour both ends, and roll it on the end 
quite thin. Put 3 thin layers for 1 cover, instead of 1 
thick layer, notching the edges together and trimming neatly. 
N. B. — Always roll in the same direction — from you. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

GOOD PLAIN PASTE. 

1 pound of sifted flour, l / 2 pound of butter, 

^ pound of lard, 2 gills of ice-water, 

5 ounces of flour for board and pin, Pinch of salt. 

Sift the flour into a 2-quart bowl. Cut the butter and lard 
(well iced) through it with a knife into bits about the size of 
a cherry. Sprinkle the water over all, and mix with a knife, 
using as few strokes as possible. Flour a space on the board 
about 24 x 18 inches. Turn out the dough in the centre of 
the space. Flour the pin, and roll the dough until nearly 
large enough to cover the floured space. Now sift a very 
thin coating of flour over the whole sheet ; fold it in 3, 
lengthwise and across, making a piece about 8x6 inches. 
Flour the board again. Roll out again ; sift with flour, and 
fold as before ; roll a third time ; sift again ; now roll it like 
a sheet of music. Cut it across the centre ; lay it on a plate 
in the ice-box for 15 minutes or longer; then it may be used. 

POTATO PASTRY. 

% pound of sifted flour, }( pound of mashed potato, 

3 ounces of butter, Pinch of salt, 

Ice-water. 

Press the potatoes through a colander. Add flour, butter, 
salt, and mix. Add enough water for stiff paste. Roll out. 
Use for plain meat-pies, etc. 



426 GOOD-LIVING. 

SUET PASTE. 

1 pound of sifted flour, 6 ounces of beef-suet, 

1 teaspoon of salt, 1 cup of ice-water. 

Remove the fibres from the suet, and chop it very fine. 
Rub in the flour and salt with the hands. Then add 
enough water to make a soft dough. Roll out. Use for 
meat-pies and apple-dumplings. 

MINCE-PIE NO. I. 

1 fresh tongue, boiled and minced very 1 pound of brown sugar, 

fine, 1 cup of New Orleans molasses, 

3 pounds of suet, well picked over, and 1 heaping tablespoon of ground cin- 

laid in cold water, namon, 

4 pounds of raisins, stoned, not chopped, l / 2 heaping tablespoon of ground cloves, 
4 " " currants, cleaned (see re- 1 " " " " allspice, 

ceipt), 1 nutmeg, grated, 

2 pounds of citron, sliced, 1 pint of cider, 

2 quarts of brandy. 

Stir all but the brandy together ; put it in a crock without 
the brandy, and leave it for i hour in a slow oven. Stir oc- 
casionally. Then remove the crock from the oven ; stir in 
brandy enough to make the mixture very soft. Cover 
closely, and set away. Allow at least i month, or if pos- 
sible 6 weeks, for it to mature, adding a little brandy from 
time to time, if it dries out at all. Add spice or sugar to 
taste, as may be required. To make up the pies, add 4 
apples, peeled and chopped, to about 1 quart of the mince- 
meat. These pies have quite a peculiar charm about them, 
the secret being that the excellent housekeeper who makes 
them always adds, at the last, some preserved strawberries and 
candied cherries, with sufficient fresh brandy to make the 
mince-meat very soft. They have a mellowness of flavor 
seldom met with in the mince-pies of modern times. The 
pies should be made up with the very best Puff-Paste, or 
with Flaky Pie-Crust. The under-crust should be very thin, 
the edges built up with 1 or 2 extra layers, notched together 
and trimmed neatly. Bake only until just done, allowing for 



GALETTE. 427 

their being re-heated when used. To re-heat them, stand 
them in the open mouth of the oven for 1 hour before 
serving. Delicious. 

MINCE-PIE NO. II 

1 fresh tongue, boiled and minced fine, 1 pound sliced citron, 

4 pounds raisins, stoned, 1 " candied lemon-peel, 

4 " currants, cleaned, 1 bottle good brandy, 

4 apples, peeled and chopped, Ground cinnamon \ 

4 " suet, freed from fibre, and chopped, " cloves >- to taste. 

2 " brown sugar, " nutmeg ) 

Mix all together, and set away in stone crocks with close- 
fitting lids. As the brandy dries off, more may be added. 
It should stand at least 6 weeks before using ; then make up 
as required, with the best Puff-Paste or Flaky Pie-Crust. 
See preceding receipt for further details. 

PASTRY SANDWICHES. 

Roll out some Puff-Paste (see receipt) very thin. Put 
I of it on a sheet of tin ; butter it over with strawberry, 
raspberry, or other fine kind of preserve. Cover this with 
the other half of the paste ; press the edges together ; trim 
neatly, and score the surface in squares with a knife. Bake 
in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes until golden-brown. When 
nearly done, draw to the door of the oven ; brush the sur- 
face with a little yolk of egg mixed with a few drops of milk ; 
sift powdered sugar thinly over the top, and return to the 
oven until nicely colored. When cool, cut it in pieces where 
you have marked it with the knife. 

GAIETTE. 

Roll out some Puff-Paste (see receipt), about f of an inch 
thick, or a little less. Cut it out in a circle the size of a 
large jelly-cake tin. Lay it on a sheet of tin ; mark the sur- 
face diagonally with a knife. Bake in a quick oven 1 5 to 20 
minutes, until gold-color. When nearly done, brush the 
surface with a little yolk of egg mixed with a few drops of 



428 GOOD-LIVING. 

milk ; sift very lightly with powdered sugar, and return to 
the oven until nicely colored. Serve whole when cold. 

Or, roll out some Puff Paste (see receipt), very thin. Lay 
over it a large jelly-cake tin and cut the paste out in a circle. 
Butter this over with Custard Filling (see receipt), made a 
little thicker and flavored with vanilla. Lay over this a 
second layer of paste cut like the first ; press the edges 
together ; score the surface diagonally with a knife. Bake 
in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes, until gold-color. When 
nearly done, brush the surface with a little yolk of egg mixed 
with a few drops of milk ; sift powdered sugar very lightly 
over the top, and return to the oven until nicely colored. 
As soon as it is cool, serve immediately. For either of the 
above, Flaky Pie-Crust (see receipt) may also be used. 

OLD-FASHIONED LEMON-CUSTARD PIE. 

Juice and grated rind of 3 lemons, 4 whites of eggs, 

4 ounces of butter, 1 pound of powdered sugar, 

6 yolks of eggs. 

FOR MERINGUE : 
6 whites of eggs, 6 tablespoons of powdered sugar. 

Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream ; then add the 4 un- 
beaten whites, 1 at a time, beating the whole very light. 
Beat the butter to a cream, and add to it the egg-mixture by 
degrees. Then stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water on 
the fire, and stir without ceasing until it thickens. Remove 
from the fire and set away to cool. Line 2 deep pie-dishes 
with Flaky Pie-crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts), and 
bake in a quick oven for 15 minutes. When the crust is 
baked, remove from the oven and fill with the Lemon Cus- 
tard, pressing down the bottom crust if it has formed any 
air-bubbles, or the surface of the pie may be uneven. Now, 
beat the 6 whites of eggs until foamy ; then add the 6 
tablespoons of powdered sugar by degrees, beating steadily. 
After the sugar is in, beat until stiff and glossy. Heap the 
meringue tastefully on top of the custard ; sift over the top 



PUMPKIN PIE. 429 

a little granulated sugar, and set in a very quick oven for 
about 2 minutes, until slightly browned. Watch carefully 
that it may not scorch or brown unevenly. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

1 quart of milk, 6 eggs, 

J K gi^ s °f su g ar . Pinch of salt, 

Vanilla or other flavoring to taste. 

Line a deep pie-plate with Flaky Pie-Crust or Good Plain 
Paste (see receipts), rolled thin. Build up the edges with 
extra rows ; trim neatly and bake until pale yellow. Mean- 
while, make the custard as follows : Scald the milk over 
boiling water ; beat the eggs together in a bowl ; beat the 
sugar and the flavoring with them. When the milk boils, 
pour it upon the eggs very gently, and stir until the sugar is 
dissolved and well-mixed. Pour this into the crust ; if the 
edge is not high enough, add another layer and notch it 
neatly, wetting it slightly to make it stick. The custard 
should be fully I inch deep. Bake in a moderately-quick 
oven until the custard sets, which will be from 15 to 20 
minutes. If you do not wish to use so many eggs, thicken 
the boiling milk with 1 level tablespoonful of corn-starch 
blended with 2 tablespoonfuls of cold milk ; bring it to a 
boil and stir until slightly thickened ; pour this over 4 eggs, 
etc., and finish as above. 

PUMPKIN PIE. 

To I quart of mashed pumpkin allow 

1 gill of flour, Good Plain Paste (see receipt), 

1 tablespoon of good liquor, I large tablespoon of butter, 

yi nutmeg grated, 1 teaspoon of ground ginger, 

1 heaping teaspoon of ground cinnamon, ]^ " " salt, 

^ teaspoon of ground mace, Sugar to taste, 

1 pint of milk and 3 eggs, or 1 quart of 1 lemon, grated rind, 

milk and 6 eggs, y z " juice, 
% teaspoon ground cloves. 

Peel and boil the pumpkin, with just enough water to keep 
it from burning, for about 30 minutes, until tender; drain 



430 GOOD-LIVING. 

very dry and mash it through a colander or coarse sieve. Or, 
it may first be steamed, then mashed. Bring the milk to a 
boil ; blend the flour with a little cold water ; stir it into the 
boiling milk ; stir and boil about 3 minutes, until thick. Mix 
this in a bowl with the pumpkin, while all are hot. Add the 
spices, sugar, lemon-peel, juice, liquor, etc., and lastly the eggs 
mixed smooth with a very little cold water. Have your pie- 
dishes ready lined with very thin paste ; add 1 or 2 extra 
layers to the edges. Pour in the mixture, finish with an 
edge neatly notched and trimmed. It should be nearly 1 
inch deep. Bake 15 or 20 minutes. Draw to the mouth of 
the oven ; brush the edges with a little egg, and return to 
the oven until nicely browned. 

N. B. — The above receipt serves likewise for squash pie. 

5 WEE T-PO TA TO CUS TA RD PIE. 

3 good-sized sweet potatoes, Butter, size of a walnut, 

1 cup of milk, 1 gill of soft sugar, 

3 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons of brandy, 

Grated rind and juice of 1 orange, 3 eggs, 

I teaspoon of ground cinnamon, Good Plain Paste (see receipt). 

Parboil the potatoes 30 minutes ; set away. When cold, 
peel and grate. Beat together butter, sugar, and yolks of 
eggs until very light. Add the potato gradually, stirring all 
the time. Then add all the other ingredients, except the 
powdered sugar and whites of eggs. Line a deep pie-dish 
with Good Plain Paste ; build up the edges with 1 or 2 extra 
layers ; notch neatly ; fill with the mixture. Bake in a 
moderately-quick oven 30 minutes. Beat the whites of eggs 
to a foam ; add the sifted powdered sugar by degrees, beat- 
ing all the while. Then beat until stiff and glossy. When 
the pie is baked, heap the meringue tastefully on the top, 
sift over a little granulated sugar, and set in a very quick 
oven for about 2 minutes, until slightly browned. Watch 
carefully that it does not scorch or brown unevenly. 

N. B. — The orange may be omitted if preferred. 

There should be about 1 quart of the mashed sweet potatoes 
for the above. 



CRANBERRY PIE. 43 1 

CURRANT PIE. 

Line a pie-plate with Good Plain Paste, or Flaky Pie-Crust 
(see receipts). Remove the stems from the currants and lay 
a layer of the fruit in the pie-dish. Cover with a layer of 
sugar nearly as thick ; another of currants and another of 
sugar. Dredge I level tablespoonful of flour over the top ; 
cover with paste ; trim and notch the edges ; cut an X in the 
centre of the cover and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 
about 30 minutes. 

Cherry, blackberry, and all small-fruit pies may be made 
in the same way, with more or less sugar according to the 
acidity of the fruit. In baking deep pies, put an inverted 
cup in the middle. (See note for baking fruit pies.) 

APPLE PIE. 

TOURTE AUX POMMES. 

Select sound, tart apples. Peel and core without breaking 
them. Boil some whole (allowing 4 for each pie) in a stew- 
pan with a little lemon-juice, a strip of the yellow peel, some 
sugar, and enough water to cover the apples. Cook until 
they can be pierced easily. Quarter other apples ; put them 
into another stewpan with lemon-juice, peel, and sugar ; and 
put enough water to cover. Stew these to a jam ; add a 
lump of butter and \ the bulk of apples in peach marmalade, 
and rub all through a colander. Line the pie-plates with 
Good Plain Paste (see receipt). Put on the bottom a layer 
of the apple jam ; set 4 whole apples in each pie ; fill the 
cavities in the apples and the spaces between with peach 
marmalade. Put strips of good crust \ an inch wide in a 
lattice across the top between the apples, and trim the edge 
neatly with I or more layers of paste, neatly notched. Bake 
in a quick oven about 20 minutes. Watch that it does not 
bake unevenly. Serve with cream. Recommended. 

CRANBERRY PIE. 

Line a pie-dish with Good Plain Paste ; fill it with raw 
cranberries ; add \ a cup of molasses and 4 tablespoonfuls of 



432 GOOD-LIVING. 

sugar. Cover with crust. Trim the edges neatly. Bake in 
a moderately-quick oven 30 minutes. Or, use Flaky Pie- 
Crust (see receipt). 



ORANGE PIE. 

1 teacup of sugar, 1 tablespoon of butter, 

I heaping tablespoon of corn-starch, i teacup of boiling water, 

]/ z orange-peel, grated, I egg, 

1 orange, juice, Pie-crust (see receipt), 

2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 2 whites of eggs. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Blend the corn- 
starch with a little cold water, and stir it into the boiling 
water, which is ready in a saucepan on the fire. Stir for I 
minute or 2. Add to this the butter, sugar, and grated 
orange-peel and juice. Remove from the fire, and stir in 
i egg, which has been mixed smooth with a few drops of 
cold water. Line a deep pie-dish with Flaky Pie-Crust (see 
receipt), and bake it. When it is firmly set, and slightly 
browned, pour in the custard. Return to the oven for 10 or 
12 minutes, or until the egg sets. Beat up 2 whites of eggs 
until foamy ; add gradually 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar. Beat until stiff and glossy. When the pie is ready, 
arrange this over the top ; sprinkle a little granulated sugar 
lightly over all, and set in a quick oven for about 2 minutes, 
until slightly browned. 



LEMON PIE. 

Prepare exactly the same as Orange Pie, adding to the 
orange £ the grated peel of i lemon, and all the juice. An 
extra egg may be added to the custard with advantage, 
using in that case the 2 yolks, and reserving the whites for 
the meringue. If the latter is tastefully arranged, the edge 
may be decorated with a few glaced oranges, which will 
make a very tempting and attractive dessert. 



PEACH TART. 433 

CRANBERRY TART. 

I quart cranberries, I cup of water (boiling), 

Sugar to taste, Pie-crust (see receipt). 

Bring the cranberries and water to a boil ; cook gently ; 
stir frequently, and mash the berries. When they are done, 
which will be in about i\ hours, remove them from the fire, 
and stir in sugar to taste. Line a pie-dish with Flaky Pie- 
Crust. Pour in the cranberries. Put strips of crust in a 
lattice over the top ; arrange the edge neatly, and bake for 
about 1 5 minutes. Brush the top of the crust with yolk of 
egg and milk, and return to the oven until nicely browned. 



PEACH TART. 

TOURTE AUX PECHES. 

1 pound of sifted flour, ^ pound of fresh butter, 

Yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of sifted sugar, 

I gill of ice-water, Peaches. 

Rub the butter into the flour and sugar; add the yolks of 
eggs, and mix well with a knife. Then add just enough ice- 
water to make a paste that will roll out. It must be a firm 
paste, rather dry. Be careful that the flour is dry, and the 
butter cold. Roll out the paste about ^ of an inch thick. 
Line with it a pie-dish, at least 1 inch deep, with straight 
sides. Trim the edges neatly, and bake the empty crust in 
a quick oven for 10 or 12 minutes. Have already prepared 
the peaches, peeled, halved, and stewed until transparent, 
with sugar, allowing about f of a pound of sugar to 1 pound 
of fruit. When the tart is to be served, fill it neatly with the 
peaches, lapping the halves one over another ; pour some of 
the syrup over, and serve with a pitcher of cream. The 
peaches should not be allowed to stand long in the crust, or 
its crispness will be destroyed. The crust should be firm, 
brittle, and crisp, not flaky. 



434 GOOD-LIVING. 

S TRA WBERR Y TART. 

TOURTE AUX FRAISES. 
Proceed as above, using strawberries instead of peaches. 

PINE-APPLE TART 

TOURTE A L' ANANAS. 

Proceed as above, using sliced and stewed pine-apple instead 
of peaches. 

STRA WBERR Y SHORT-CAKE. 

i quart of sifted flour, I teaspoon of salt, 

4 ounces of butter, Sugar, 

2 teaspoons of baking-powder, Milk, 

2 quart boxes of strawberries, Cream. 

Stem the berries ; slightly mash them, and sweeten them 
to taste. Set aside. Rub the butter into the flour, having 
sifted the latter with the baking-powder ; add salt; then add 
sufficient milk to make a dough soft enough to roll out easily. 
Mix quickly and lightly. Flour the board and pin. Roll 
out the paste f of an inch thick. Divide in 2 parts. Lay I 
layer of this in a large baking-pan. Dust the top with flour 
and lay a second layer of the paste over this. Set in a quick 
oven and bake about 20 minutes. When done, take a knife 
and carefully separate the 2 layers of cake. Set I on a plat- 
ter ; spread it thickly with butter, then with a layer of ber- 
ries, well sugared ; lay on this the second layer of cake, the 
rest of the berries and sugar. Stand it in the open mouth 
of the oven until ready to send to table, and serve with a 
pitcher of rich cream. 

RA SPBERR Y SHOR T-CA KM. 

Proceed exactly as for Strawberry Short-Cake, substituting 
raspberries. 

PEA CH SHOR T-CA KE. 

Proceed as for Strawberry Short-Cake, substituting peaches. 



BROWN BETTY, OR PAN-DOWDY. 435 

CREAMED APPLE-TART. 

I pint of apples, pared and cored, 2 ounces of brown sugar, 

^2 teaspoon of grated lemon-peel, % pint of boiled custard, 

I tablespoon of lemon-juice, Puff Paste or Flaky Pie-Crust. 

Line a deep pie-dish with pastry ; fill it with the apples, 
sliced ; add sugar, lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 table- 
spoonfuls of cold water. Cover with crust ; trim and notch 
the edges neatly. Bake in a hot oven 30 to 45 minutes. Be 
careful not to brown too much. When the tart is baked, cut 
out evenly a round piece from the centre of the top ; fill in 
the custard level with the top ; grate a little nutmeg over 
the custard. Serve very cold. This is an old-fashioned 
dish. 

BRO WN BE TTY, OR PAN-DO WD Y. 

1 large cup of grated bread-crumbs, Butter, 

6 or 8 sliced apples, Spices, 

^ cup of molasses, }i cup of cold water, 
Sugar. 

Take a pudding-dish ; lay on the bottom a layer of apples ; 
over this a layer of stale, grated bread-crumbs, just thick 
enough to cover the apple ; add little lumps of butter, sugar, 
and a pinch each of cloves, allspice, and twice as big a pinch 
of cinnamon. Then begin again with the apples, crumbs, 
etc., and continue till the dish is filled, ending with a thick 
layer of bread-crumbs and lumps of butter. Then, with the 
blade of a knife, make a space on 4 sides, between the 
dish and the pudding, and pour in |- a cupful of molasses 
and same quantity of cold water. This is the allowance for 
a quart dish. Smooth the spaces over. Set the dish in a pan 
into which pour boiling water to \ the depth of the pudding- 
dish. Bake for f of an hour, or until a broom-whisp can be 
easily introduced into the apples. Be generous with the 
butter, and bake well, and this pudding will be a success. 
Eat hot with cream. It is also good eaten cold. 

Raisins and citron added to each layer make this richer, 
but less digestible. 



436 GOOD-LIVING. 

SPICED APPLE PUDDING. 

3 cups of bread-crumbs, 3 cups of chopped apples, 

1 cup of sugar, " A " or " C ", 1 pint of milk, 

)£ pound of stoned raisins, % pound of citron (or not), 

2 tablespoons of brandy, 1 tablespoon of ground cinnamon, 
^ teaspoon of ground cloves, 1 teaspoon of mace, 

3 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart. 

Scald the milk. Stir in the crumbs and scald for 1 or 2 
minutes. Remove from the fire. Mix together all the in- 
gredients, adding lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. 
Butter a pudding-dish ; fill with the batter and bake for 
about 40 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. Watch that 
it does not brown unevenly. Serve with Custard Sauce or 
other (see receipts for pudding sauces). 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING, BAKED. 

}£ pound of butter, I pound of brown sugar, 

K " " flour - 4 eggs. 

1 quart of berries, not too ripe. 

Cream the sugar and butter. Add the yolks of eggs. 
Beat until very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth ; 
add them and the flour alternately. Have ready a buttered 
pudding-dish. Stir the blackberries quickly and lightly into 
the batter. Fill the dish f-full of the mixture. Bake for 1 
hour and 15 to 30 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. 
Watch that it does not scorch or bake unevenly. Serve hot 
with Hard or Wine Sauce. Excellent. 

BLACKBERRY PUDDING, BOILED. 

\% pounds of sifted flour, 1 quart of blackberries, 

2 gills of chopped suet, 2 gills of molasses, 

2 " " milk, 2 " " brown sugar, 

1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon of boiling water. 

Mix together the suet, milk, molasses, and sugar. Add £ 
the flour, then the soda ; mix well ; then add the rest of the 
flour and the fruit. Fill a greased mould f-full of the mix- 



CABINET PUDDING. 437 

ture. Leave plenty of room for the pudding to swell. Have 
ready a pot of boiling water ; cover the mould tightly and 
put it into the kettle of boiling water. Boil without inter- 
ruption for 3 hours and 30 minutes ; or steam over the water 
4 hours. For boiling, cover the mould tightly ; it may be 
steamed in a bowl. Serve with a Pudding Sauce (see re- 
ceipts). If any is left cold next day, it may be sliced and 
fried in butter. 

HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING. 

Proceed as directed for Blackberry Pudding, Boiled, sub- 
stituting huckleberries. 

DRIED-PEACH PUDDING, BOILED. 

^ pound of sifted flour, I pint of dried peaches, 

3 gills of beef suet, 1 teaspoon of salt, 

Cold water. 

Chop the peaches and suet. Mix them with the flour and 
salt. Add just enough water to keep the ingredients to- 
gether in as stiff a batter as can be easily stirred — almost as 
stiff as dough. Tie it in a floured pudding-bag, leaving 
plenty of room to swell. Have ready boiling a large pot of 
water, and drop the pudding into it. Boil without intermis- 
sion about 4 hours. Or, tie in the bag and steam for the 
same length of time. Serve hot with Wine or Lemon Sauce 
(see receipts). 

CABINET PUDDING. 

3 tablespoons of sugar, 3 yolks of eggs, 

I pint of milk, Pinch of salt, 

Raisins, Citron, 

Cake, 1 ounce of candied peaches or apricots. 

Butter a quart mould well. Line the bottom with raisins, 
stoned, and citron and apricots cut in fancy shapes. Cover 
with slices of stale cake ; add more raisins, citron, and apri- 
cots, alternating with cake, until within i£ inches of the top. 



438 GOOD-LIVING. 

Scald the milk. Beat to a cream the sugar and eggs. Pour 
the boiling milk carefully upon the eggs, stirring briskly. 
Add vanilla or rum to taste. Pour this into the mould over 
the cake. Cover. Set the mould in a pan ; pour cold water 
into the pan to \ the height of the mould. Put the pan on 
the range until the water comes to a boil ; then put the pan 
into the oven and bake the pudding I hour. When done, 
turn the pudding out of the mould and serve with Wine 
Sauce (see receipt). 

JIM CROW, 
Put New Orleans molasses in a frying-pan and let it boil 
until it thickens — about 6 minutes. It should be \ an inch 
deep. Have ready buttered slices of bread, without crusts ; 
cut them in square or oblong pieces. Lay them in the boil- 
ing molasses until crisp. Drain and serve hot. 

BE A ULIEU PUDDING. 

1 lemon, 3 ounces of sugar, 

2 ounces of Candied Lemon-Peel, 6 " " butter, 

6 bitter almonds, shredded, 6 " " sifted flour, 

io sweet " 4 eggs. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; add yolks of eggs and beat 
very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Add to the 
sugar the lemon-peel cut fine (see receipt), the almonds, the 
juice and grated rind of the lemon. Lastly add the whites 
alternately with the flour. Mix carefully. Have ready 
buttered gem-pans ; fill these f-full with the mixture, and 
bake 20 to 30 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. When 
firm, serve turned out on a cut paper. Serve at the same 
time, in a sauce-boat, a Brandy Sauce or other (see receipts). 

ROYAL CO BURG PUDDING. 

1 pint of new milk, 6 ounces of flour, 

6 ounces of sugar, 6 " "butter, 

6 " " currants, 6 eggs, 

Grated nutmeg, Brandy to taste. 

Mix together the flour and cold milk until smooth ; stir in 
the remaining ingredients gradually, first creaming the butter 
and sugar together. When well mixed and smooth, fill 4 



RICE PUDDING NO. I. 439 

small pudding-moulds or bowls |--full. Bake 45 minutes. 
Turn the puddings out on a cut paper and serve with Wine 
or Brandy Sauce (see receipts) in a sauce-boat. 

RICE CREAM PUDDING. 

RIZ A LA CREME. 

1 cup of freshly-boiled rice, hot, Flavoring to taste, 
^ " " sugar, 3 cups of milk, 

2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon of corn-starch, 

2 eggs. 

Blend the corn-starch with a little of the cold milk ; then 
add the rest of the milk to it. Stir in the yolks of eggs and 
sugar beaten together. Set this over the fire in a farina- 
kettle ; stir, and, when hot, add the hot rice. Stir it care- 
fully over the fire until it begins to thicken like boiled 
custard ; then remove it from the fire and add flavoring, 
vanilla and lemon, to taste. Pour it into a pudding-dish and 
set it in a moderately-hot oven. Beat the whites of the 
eggs to a foam, then add 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar 
and beat until stiff and glossy. When the pudding is nicely 
browned (about 25 to 30 minutes), spread the meringue over 
the top, sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar, and return 
to the oven to brown slightly. The oven should be very hot 
for the meringue, or it will fall. If it is not convenient to 
heat up the oven to the degree required for this, heat the 
kitchen shovel red-hot and hold it over the top of the 
meringue until sufficiently browned. Serve very cold. 

N. B. — If the receipt is carefully followed the pudding 
will be very creamy. 

RICE PUDDING NO. I. 

RIZ AU LAIT. 

3 tablespoons of rice, well washed, 3 pints of milk, 

3 " " "C" sugar, Small lump of butter, 

Stick of cinnamon, Pinch of salt. 

Three quarters of an hour, oven door closed. 
Two and one quarter hours, oven door open. 
Stir every time a top forms, until about 30 minutes before 
it is to be done. 



440 GOOD-LIVING. 

RICE PUDDING NO. II. 

RIZ AU LAIT. 

I cup of rice, well washed, 2 quarts of milk, 

8 tablespoons of " C " sugar, Butter, 

Pinch of salt, Vanilla to taste. 

To make the rice pudding creamy, open the oven door at 
intervals and stir down the top that forms until within about 
30 minutes of the time when it is to be done ; then let it 
brown nicely. Remove it from the oven before it gets firm, 
as, in cooling, it becomes very much firmer. The time is 
about 3 hours as in above receipt, but must be governed by 
the quality of the oven, which should be slow. 

RICE AND PEACH PUDDING. 

Boil some rice (see receipt) ; drain ; add just enough boil- 
ing milk to cover, and let it stew until the milk is absorbed ; 
or "boil the rice in milk. It should be well moistened with 
milk when prepared as follows : Stir into it sugar to taste, 
and I ounce of butter. When hot, stir in quickly 2 beaten 
e gg s - Butter a plain pudding-mould ; cover the bottom 
with bread-crumbs. Put in a layer of rice \ an inch deep ; 
then a layer of peaches, peeled and stoned ; sift with sugar ; 
then begin with another layer of rice ; cover with another of 
peaches and sugar, and so on until the mould is filled, finish- 
ing with a layer of rice. Bake in a moderately-quick oven 
30 to 40 minutes, if you use raw peaches ; 1 5 or 20, if canned; 
or preserved. When done, turn the pudding carefully out 
of the mould on a cut paper, and serve with Maryland 
Sauce (see receipt). 

BAKED ROLY-POLY. 

Make a rich Biscuit dough (see receipt). Roll out about 
\ an inch thick ; spread thickly with jam or stewed fruit. 
Roll in a scroll ; lay it in a long, tin loaf-pan with the lap 
uppermost, and bake about 30 minutes in a moderately-quick 
oven. Serve with Hard Sauce. 



SWEET-POTATO PUDDING. 44I 

BOILED ROLY-POLY. 

Prepare as above. Tie in a well-floured cloth and boil 
without intermission for about 3 hours. Or, it may be 
steamed. Serve with Hard Sauce or other (see receipts). 

HUCKLEBERRY ROLY-POLY. 

Prepare exactly as for Boiled Roly-Poly, laying a thick 
layer of huckleberries, covered with sugar, on the biscuit- 
crust ; roll and finish as directed. Serve with Hard Sauce 
(see receipt). 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 

1 j£ cups of sifted flour, 1 cup of sugar, 

2 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks 1 tablespoon of butter, 

apart, 1 gill of milk, 

1 teaspoon of Royal baking-powder, or 1 of cream of tartar, and y z of soda. 

Cream together butter and sugar ; add yolks and milk ; 
sift the baking-powder with the flour ; add this, then lastly 
the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a round, greased 
tin for 30 to 45 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. Test 
with a broom-whisp. If dry, the pudding is done. Turn it 
out of the mould on a cut paper, and serve with Wine or 
Brandy Sauce (see receipts). 

PRUNE PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Amherst Pudding (see receipt), substituting 
£ pound of prunes and \ pound of currants well cleaned, 
for the raisins. Recommended. 

5- WEE T-PO TA TO PUDDING. 

%, pound of sweet potatoes, ^ teaspoon of salt, 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 8 ounces of sugar, 

Juice " " " 1 orange, 6 " " butter, 

% teaspoon mace, 2 tablespoons of brandy 

I even teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 8 eggs, 
1 gill of sherry. 

Peel the potatoes and grate them raw. Cream together 
butter and sugar. Beat the eggs all together until extremely 



442 GOOD-LIVING. 

light ; add them to the butter and sugar, with all the in- 
gredients. Beat well. Butter a pudding-dish ; fill it not 
more than f-full of the mixture, and bake in a moderately- 
quick oven for 45 minutes. Serve hot or cold with a sauce 
(see receipts). 

MINUTE PUDDING. 

1 quart of milk, Butter, size of a hickory-nut, 

1 pint of flour, or about, Pinch of salt, 

2 eggs. 

Beat the eggs well together ; mix with these the flour and 
enough cold milk to make a smooth batter. Put the re- 
mainder of the milk in a saucepan with the butter and salt. 
When it boils, stir in the flour and eggs ; stir and boil for 5 
minutes or more, until of the consistency of corn-mush. 
Serve hot with sweetened milk. Or, pour in a dish, set away, 
and serve icy cold, with Custard Sauce flavored with vanilla 
(see receipt). Excellent for children's dinner. 

BAKED BA TTER PUDDING. 

16 tablespoons of sifted flour, ^ teaspoon of salt, 

1 quart of milk, 4 eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. 

Stir into the milk the yolks of eggs well beaten ; stir these 
into the salt and flour. Then beat in the whites of eggs. 
When perfectly free from lumps, bake in large patty-pans, or 
in 1 shallow pudding-dish. The dish should be well heated 
and buttered. Bake about 25 minutes in a very hot oven. 
It should rise very high, and form a good, firm crust. The 
length of time for baking depends very much upon the size 
and depth of the dish, as well as upon the quality of the 
oven ; but observe, that the top must be a firm crust, or it 
will fall too quickly. Serve immediately with Hard Sauce or 
with Strawberry Sauce (see receipts). 

CHERRY PUDDING. 

2 eggs, Flour for stiff batter, 

3 teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 cup of sweet milk, 

Cherries. 
Mix together all the ingredients to a stiff batter, stirring 
the milk into the flour ; then stir in as many cherries as the 



POTATO PUDDING. 443 

batter will hold. Boil or steam 2 hours or more in a greased 
mould, filling the mould not more than |-full, and cover- 
ing ; or boil in a floured pudding-bag, leaving plenty of room 
to swell. The pudding must boil without intermission or it 
will be heavy. Serve with Hard Sauce or other (see receipts). 
Any small fruit may be used in the same way. 

COCOA-NUT PUDDING NO I. 

i cocoa-nut, grated, Flaky Pie-Crust, 

Milk of the cocoa-nut, I quart of milk, 

5 eggs, i cup of sugar, 

I ounce of butter, 2 tablespoons of rose-water, 

Pinch of salt. 

Boil the milk and pour it upon the grated cocoa-nut and 
its milk. Beat the sugar with the eggs. Add the above to 
them ; then add salt and flavorings. Stir. Bake in a but- 
tered dish with an edge of pie-crust, 20 to 30 minutes. You 
may substitute cream for the milk, and add 3 more eggs, 
if preferred. 

COCOA-NUT PUDDING NO. II. 

1 pound of grated cocoa-nut, 8 ounces of butter, 

3 stale rusk or small sponge-cakes, 6 eggs, 

8 ounces of powdered sugar, 1 gill of white wine. 

Grate the cocoa-nut, which you have peeled and thrown into 
cold water. Grate or roll the rusk or cakes. Beat to a cream 
the butter and sugar. Add the wine. Beat the eggs, whites 
and yolks together, until very light, and stir them gradually 
into the butter and sugar in turn with the rusk and cocoa- 
nut. Having beaten the whole together very hard, put it 
into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderately-quick 
oven 30 minutes. Delicious. 

POTATO PUDDING. 

8 ounces of potatoes, 4 ounces of butter, 

2 stale sponge-cakes, grated, 5 eggs, 

8 ounces of sugar, Rose-water and brandy, 1 gill, mixed, 

Pinch of mace and cinnamon, Grated orange-peel, 

Grated nutmeg, % gill sherry. 

Peel and boil the potatoes. Mash through a colander. 
While hot, mix in the butter, and beat light. Beat the eggs 



444 GOOD-LIVING. 

together, and add them to the potatoes with the sugar and 
flavorings to taste. Put in a pudding-dish with or without an 
edge of pastry. Bake for about 30 minutes in a moderately- 
quick oven. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

^ cup of powdered cracker, %" cup of butter, 

Pinch of salt, Whites of 3 eggs, 

3 ounces of chocolate, grated, 3 yolks of eggs, 

1 quart of milk, % cup of sugar, 

I cup of powdered sugar and 3 whites of eggs for meringue. 

Soak the cracker-crumbs in water for a few minutes, then 
squeeze them out thoroughly. Dissolve the chocolate in a 
little of the milk. Add the other ingredients. Pour into 
a buttered dish and bake 15 to 20 minutes in a quick oven. 
When cold, put the meringue over the top and set in a very 
hot oven about 2 minutes, or just long enough to brown the 
egg very slightly. 

Note. — To make the meringue, beat the whites to a foam ; 
then add the sugar and beat until stiff and glossy. 

AMBER PUDDING. 

1 pound of sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 

2 lemons, juice and grated rind, 9 eggs. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; then add the yolks and 
lemon. Beat very light. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff 
froth, and mix into the batter with as few strokes as possible. 
Have ready deep pie-plates lined with Flaky Pie-Crust or 
with Good Plain Paste (see receipts) ; pour in the mixture, 
and bake in a moderately-quick oven for about 30 minutes. 
Watch carefully that they do not scorch or bake unevenly. 
To be eaten cold. 

INDIAN PUDDING. 

I quart of milk, I teaspoon of ground ginger, 

7 tablespoons of sifted corn-meal, 2 gills of molasses, 

i teaspoon of salt. 

Scald the milk. Remove from the fire. Stir it into the 
corn-meal ; stir over the fire 10 minutes, then add salt, 



BAKED ORANGE PUDDING NO. II. 445 

molasses, and ginger. Mix well. Pour into a buttered pud- 
ding-dish. Bake in a very moderate oven 45 to 60 minutes. 

OLD-FASHIONED INDIAN PUDDING. 

1 cup of Indian meal, 4 ounces of butter, melted, 

4 e gg s > beaten light, Sugar to taste, 

1 tablespoon of molasses, A few currants, well cleaned, 

Peach- or rose-water, Cinnamon or orange-peel. 

Mix the meal smooth in cold water ; add the other ingredi- 
ents. Flavor to taste. Butter 2 fire-proof pudding-dishes 
(not deep). Pour in the mixture and bake 1 hour or more. 
This quantity is sufficient for 2 puddings. 

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING NO. I. 

2 large oranges, 8 ounces of butter, 

8 ounces of powdered sugar, 1 gill of mixed wine and brandy, 

1 stale small sponge-cake, 6 eggs. 

Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the oranges, 
removing the pips. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream ; 
add the wine. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs to- 
gether very light ; add them gradually to the mixture. 
Have ready a buttered pudding-dish edged with Flaky Pie- 
Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts) neatly notched. 
The cake may be rolled and added to the mixture, but it 
will make it a little less rich. Fill the pudding-dish with the 
mixture, and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30 minutes. 
When cool, sift powdered sugar over the top and serve. 

BAKED LEMON PUDDING NO. I. 

Proceed exactly as above, using lemons instead of oranges. 
Delicious. 

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING NO. II. 

8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces of butter, 

2 oranges, 6 eggs. 

Grate the rind of the oranges and squeeze the juice. 
Cream together butter and sugar ; beat in the yolks of eggs 



446 GOOD-LIVING. 

one at a time ; then add the orange rind and juice. Beat 
the whites to a stiff froth. Have ready a deep pie-dish 
lined with Flaky Pie-Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts). 
Beat the whites into the batter with a few long, slow strokes. 
Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and bake in a moderately- 
quick oven for 20 to 25 minutes. 

BAKED LEMON PUDDING NO. II. 

Proceed exactly as for Baked Orange Pudding No. II., 
using lemons instead of oranges. 

BOILED ORANGE PUDDING. 

4 ounces of macaroons, i pint of milk, 

1 gill of sugar, 4 eggs, 

Grated rind of 1 orange, Juice of 2 oranges. 

Soak the macaroons in the milk until soft. Beat the eggs 
and sugar together until well mixed, then add to them the 
milk, and beat until smooth. Add the orange-juice and rind. 
Butter a pudding-mould ; fill f -full of the mixture ; cover 
closely and put into a pot of boiling water. Boil without 
interruption for 1 hour. Serve with Orange or other Pud- 
ding Sauce (see receipts). 

BOILED LEMON PUDDING. 

Proceed as for Boiled Orange Pudding, substituting juice 
and grated rind of I lemon. Serve with Lemon Sauce (see 
receipt). 

PLUM-PUDDING. 

2 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart, 1 cup of flour, 
I teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 1 " " milk, 

1 " " " allspice, 1 " " suet, 

2 cups of bread-crumbs, 1 gill of citron, sliced, 
1 cup of dark N. O. molasses, 1 cup of stoned raisins, 

1 " " cleaned currants, y 2 teaspoon Royal baking-powder. 

Clean the Currants (see receipt). Wet the crumbs in the 
milk, then add yolks and all other ingredients, straining the 



AMHERST PUDDING. 447 

molasses, and sifting together flour and baking-powder. 
Add beaten whites last. Fill a well-greased pudding-mould 
(or tin kettle with. a cover) not more than f-full. Fit the 
cover on tightly, and boil in a large pot of boiling water 
without intermission for 3 hours and 30 minutes. When 
ready to serve, put a sprig of holly in the top ; pour a little 
brandy over the pudding, and, at the moment of serving, set 
fire to it. Serve with Wine or Brandy Sauce (see receipts). 

ENGLISH PLUM-PUDDING. 

I pound of stoned raisins, 1 pound of suet, chopped fine, 

3^ " " stale bread-crumbs, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 

1 lemon, grated rind, 4 " " sifted flour, 

1 pound of currants, well-cleaned, )4 nutmeg, grated, 

2 gills of brandy, 5 eggs, 

8 ounces minced candied orange-peel. 

Clean the currants (see receipt) ; stone the raisins. Mix 
all the dry ingredients together. Beat together eggs and 
brandy ; pour them over the rest and mix thoroughly. Pack 
in greased moulds or kettles ; cover. Put into a pot of boil- 
ing water and boil without intermission 6 hours. This will 
make about 6 pounds. The day it is required for use, boil 
again for 6 hours. When serving, pour brandy over the 
pudding, set fire to it, and serve it while blazing. Serve with 
Brandy Sauce. 

AMHERST PUDDING. 

1 cup of suet, chopped fine, 1 cup of molasses, strained, 

1 " " milk, 1 gill of citron, sliced, 

1 " " raisins, stoned and chopped, 1 " " currants, well cleaned, 
3^ cups of sifted flour, Spices to taste, 

I heaping teaspoon of baking-soda, 1 saltspoon of salt, 
1 heaping teaspoon of baking-powder. 

Mix all together, adding last the flour sifted with the 
baking-powder, and the soda dissolved in a few drops of 
boiling water. Beat until very light. Grease a mould or tin 
kettle ; fill not more than f-full of the mixture. Fasten the 
cover on firmly. Have ready a large pot of boiling water ; 



448 GOOD-LIVING. 

place the mould in this and boil without intermission for 
4 hours and 30 minutes to 5 hours. If the boiling is checked, 
the pudding will be heavy. Or, tie in a well-floured bag, 
leaving plenty of room to swell, and boil about 4 hours. 
Serve with Hard Sauce. The pudding may be also eaten 
with molasses. If any is left cold the next day, it may be 
sliced, fried brown in hot butter, and eaten with molasses for 
luncheon. Recommended. 



SUET PUDDING. 

1 small cup of suet, chopped fine, i cup of molasses, 

I cup of chopped and seeded raisins, I " " sour milk, 

I teaspoon of soda, Ground spices to taste, 

Flour for thick batter, about 2>% cups. 

Mix. Add last the teaspoon of soda dissolved in a few 
drops of boiling water ; beat well. Tie in a floured bag, 
leaving room to swell to double its bulk. Put into a large 
pot of boiling water and boil without intermission for 3 hours 
and 30 minutes. Serve with Hard Sauce (see receipt) or 
with molasses. 

SPICE PUDDING. 

I cup of molasses, 1 gill of melted butter, 

I " " milk, 1 " " wine, 

3 j£ cups of sifted flour, Pinch of salt, 

I teaspoon of baking-soda, I teaspoon of baking-powder, 

I " " ground cinnamon, I nutmeg, grated, 

Yi teaspoon of ground cloves. 

Dissolve the soda in 1 tablespoonful of boiling water ; stir 
it into the molasses ; add the melted butter, then the milk 
and flour sifted with the baking-powder. Add salt, spices, 
and wine. Beat until smooth. Grease a pudding-mould or 
tin-kettle with a cover. Fill f-full. Cover. Set in a pot of 
boiling water and boil without intermission for about 4 
hours. Or, tie in a floured cloth, leaving room to swell, and 
boil about 3 hours. Serve with Lemon Sauce (see receipt). 



DATE PUDDING. 449 

OLD-FASHIONED APPLE PUDDING. 

4 large tart apples, 4 ounces of stale bread-crumbs, 

1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, y^ nutmeg, grated, 

1 saltspoon of salt, 4 eggs. 

Pare and chop the apples fine ; mix with the crumbs. 
Beat whites and yolks of eggs apart until very light. Add to 
the crumbs, yolks, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg ; then stir in 
the whites carefully. Mix. Boil in a well-greased mould, cov- 
ered, for 3 hours. Serve hot, with Custard, Wine, or Lemon 
Sauce (see receipts). For detailed directions for boiling, see 
receipt for Amherst Pudding. 

BOILED APPLE-DUMPLINGS. 

I quart of sifted flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 

1 large tablespoon of butter or lard, 2 gills of milk, 

2 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, Apples. 

Pare and core the apples. Have ready a pot with about 
3 inches of water. Or, if you prefer to steam them, have 
the pot f-full of boiling water ; place the steamer over it. 
Now mix together the flour and butter or lard, then add 
salt and baking-powder. Moisten with milk enough to 
make a soft dough, which can be easily rolled out without 
sticking. Roll out about £ an inch thick; cut out the 
dumplings the size of a breakfast plate. Put 1 apple in 
the centre of each piece of dough ; fill the space of the core 
with sugar and a little cinnamon, and draw the dough 
neatly over the apple. To boil them, tie each in a floured 
cloth, leaving plenty of room to swell ; put them into the 
kettle of boiling water, and boil 30 minutes without ceasing. 
Or, set on a tin plate over the steamer and cook 40 minutes. 
Serve hot with Hard Sauce (see receipt). 

FIG PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Amherst Pudding, substituting 1 pound of 
figs cut in pieces for the raisins and currants. 

DATE PUDDING. 
Proceed as for Amherst Pudding, substituting 1 pound of 
dates, stoned and cut in pieces, for the raisins and currants. 



mvi Ij^^^^l ^^S^rU^ 


TjM^M 








llwm 


^^v^M 









PUDDING SAUCES. 
WHIPPED-CREAM SAUCE. 

I pint of Whipped Cream (see receipt), Whites of 2 or 3 eggs, 

Powdered sugar, Vanilla, wine or rum. 

Flavor the whipped cream with vanilla, rum, or wine. 
Sweeten to taste with powdered sugar. Beat the whites of 
eggs to a very stiff froth ; then beat all together. Serve 
with Plum-Pudding Glace, Blanc-Mange, etc., etc, 

GOLDEN SAUCE. 

Yolks of 2 eggs, Lemon-juice, 

1 whole egg, 1 gill of sugar, 

1 gill of sherry. 

Beat the eggs with a scant gill of soft sugar in a small 
saucepan until creamy. Then set the saucepan in a kettle 
of boiling water on the fire. Beat the eggs quickly and 
steadily while you pour in very gradually 1 gill of sherry. 
Stir until the sauce thickens to a cream ; then remove from 
the fire ; add a squeeze of lemon-juice strained, and serve 
hot. 

VELVET SAUCE. 

yl cup of butter, 1 gill of boiling water, 

1 heaping teaspoon of corn-starch, \yd cups of powdered sugar. 

Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar and con- 
tinue to beat for 2 or 3 minutes. When the water boils, 
stir in the corn-starch blended with a very little cold water. 
Stir and boil 2 or 3 minutes, until transparent. Just before 
450 



CUSTARD SAUCE. 45 1 

serving, stir this into the butter and sugar, and flavor with 
brandy, rum, maraschino, lemon-juice, or extract of vanilla. 
Serve hot. 

SILVER SAUCE. 

2,}i cups of water, Flavoring, 

Butter the size of a walnut, i cup of sugar, 

I tablespoon of corn-starch. 

When the water boils, stir in corn-starch blended with a 
very little cold water. Add the sugar and stir constantly 
until the corn-starch has boiled about 3 minutes, until trans- 
parent. If cinnamon-stick or lemon-peel are used for flavor- 
ing, they should boil in the sauce at the same time. Remove 
the saucepan ; add butter and flavoring to taste. Strain out 
the peel or cinnamon-stick, and serve hot. 

STRA WBERR Y SA UCE. 

1 gill of butter, 2 gills of sugar (1 cup), 

1 cup of ripe strawberries, mashed, 1 white of egg. 

Cream together butter and sugar ; add the white of egg 
beaten to a very stiff froth and the strawberries thoroughly 
mashed. When well beaten together, serve cold. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 

6 ounces of granulated sugar, 2 cloves, 

1 stick of cinnamon, 2 gills of boiling water, 

Lemon-peel. 

Put these together on the fire and boil 10 minutes. To 
make the caramel, put 2 ounces of granulated sugar dissolved 
in 1 tablespoonful of boiling water on a moderate fire and 
boil 10 minutes, stirring until it becomes light brown. Strain 
the sauce over the caramel ; boil up once. Remove from 
the fire ; add 3 tablespoonf uls of sherry, and serve hot. 

CUSTARD SAUCE. 

1 pint of new milk, 1 gill of sugar, 

3 e gg s > Flavoring. 

Boil the milk. Beat eggs and sugar together in a bowl to 
a cream. Pour the boiling milk very slowly upon the eggs, 



452 GOOD-LIVING. 

stirring very briskly. When thoroughly mixed, strain it 
back into the saucepan ; set this over boiling water on the 
fire and stir until it thickens, but do not boil or it will curdle. 
Flavor to taste. Serve very cold. 

BRANDY SAUCE. 

4 tablespoonfuls of butter, I gill of brandy, 

I cup of powdered sugar, I " " boiling water, 

Whites of 2 eggs. 

Cream together butter and sugar. Beat until very light. 
Add the whites I by I, beating steadily. When required, 
add the brandy and boiling water ; set the bowl in boiling 
water {bain marie) over the fire and stir until creamy. Serve 
hot. 

HARD SA UCE. 

X cup of butter, Whites of 2 eggs, 

I teaspoon of vanilla, I cup of powdered sugar, 

I tablespoon of brandy or rum. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the whites of 
eggs i by I, and beat until very light, then add by degrees 
the flavorings, beating steadily. Arrange neatly in a small 
mound ; sprinkle with grated nutmeg, and set in the ice-box 
to harden. 

PLAIN HARD SA UCE. 

May be made with butter and sugar alone, in above pro- 
portions, using "A" sugar in preference. Add I tablespoon- 
ful of rum or lemon-juice and a little nutmeg. Set away on 
the ice to harden. 

LEMON SAUCE. 



I tablespoon of corn-starch, 


i gill of sugar 


I " " butter, 


Ie gg. 


I pint of boiling water, 


I lemon. 



Beat together in a bowl the corn-starch, egg, butter, and 
sugar. When thoroughly mixed, pour slowly over them the 
boiling water, stirring steadily ; set on the fire over a sauce- 



syrup. 453 

pan of boiling water, and stir until thick (about 3 minutes). 
Taste to see if the corn-starch is sufficiently cooked. Re- 
move from the fire and add the juice and grated rind of I 
lemon. Serve hot. Or, blend the corn-starch with a little 
cold water, stir it into the boiling water, and continue to 
stir until thick and transparent. Stir in the lemon-rind and 
the butter and sugar creamed together. Remove from the 
fire, and, while boiling, mix it into the egg and lemon-juice. 
Strain into a sauce-boat and serve hot. 

MARYLAND WINE SAUCE. 

4 tablespoons of brown sugar, ^ gill of wine, 

4 ounces of butter, Yolks of 2 eggs. 

Beat together yolks, sugar, and butter. When thoroughly 
mixed, set over boiling water on the fire ; add by degrees 
the wine, and stir until as thick and smooth as rich cream. 
Serve hot. 

SYRUP FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

2 tablespoons of water, 2 cups of brown sugar, 

I even tablespoon of butter. 

Boil 5 minutes. Use cold. 

SYRUP. 

2 pounds of granulated sugar, White of I egg, 

i pint of fresh water. 

Put the sugar and water into a china-lined saucepan. Stir 
in the beaten white of egg. Now set the saucepan on the 
fire. When it begins to boil, watch that it does not rise too 
fast, but it must bubble and froth in order to clear. When 
it has boiled about 5 minutes, draw it to the side of the 
range ; let the froth subside, then skim it thoroughly, and it 
is ready for use. 



DESSERTS: JELLIES, CREAMS, FRITTERS, CUS- 
TARDS, ETC. 

BA VARIAN CREAM. 

BAVAROISE. 

I quart of cream, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 

Yz box of Cox's gelatine, 4 eggs, yolks only, 

I gill of cold water, Vanilla or rum. 

First of all, put I pint of cream on the ice for several 
hours, till it becomes thoroughly cold. Soak the gelatine in 
the cold water for 2 hours. Put 1 pint of cream in the 
farina-kettle and bring it to a boil with the sugar. When it 
comes to a boil, pour it over the gelatine. Stir until the 
gelatine is dissolved, returning the cream to the fire if neces- 
sary. Set aside to cool. Beat the yolks of eggs to a cream. 
When the cream is cool enough, stir in the eggs briskly ; 
when well mixed, strain into a bowl ; add vanilla or rum to 
taste and set away on the ice. Now take the other pint of 
cream which has been on the ice all this time ; set it in a 
bowl in a pan of cracked ice, and, with a Dover egg-beater, 
whip it to a stiff froth, skimming the froth, as it rises, into a 
second cold bowl. (N. B. — Keep all very cold, and you will 
save both time and trouble.) When the boiled cream is quite 
cold and has begun to thicken, stir it over ice until perfectly 
smooth ; then stir into it the whipped cream with as few 
strokes as possible to mix well. Rinse 2 moulds, Or 1 large 
one, with cold water. Fill with the mixture and set away to 
harden. When firm, turn it out and serve with or without 
a pitcher of cream, or with Whipped-Cream Sauce (see re- 
ceipt). This is not at all difficult to make, though a little 
tedious. Delicious. 

454 



COFFEE BAVARIAN CREAM. 455 

CHOCOLA TE BA VARIAN CREAM. 

BAVAROISE AU CHOCOLAT. 

Proceed as directed for Bavarian Cream, adding to the 
boiling cream 2 ounces of Maillard's or Huyler's best choco- 
late, grated and blended with I or 2 teaspoons of boiling 
milk. 

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. 

BAVAROISE AUX FRAISES. 

Put I pint of milk on the ice for some time, to get it 
thoroughly cold. 

Stem 2|- pounds of ripe berries. Mash them through a 
colander. Add 6 ounces of powdered sugar to the juice. 
Soak the gelatine in cold water 2 hours. When the sugar is 
dissolved, add the gelatine. Stir until dissolved, as directed 
in receipt for Bavarian Cream. Omit the pint of boiled 
cream and the egg. The juice of the berries and the gela- 
tine should measure a full pint ; if not, a little boiling water 
may be added, but it must be very little. Set away on the 
ice while you beat the cream as directed in Bavarian Cream. 
Finish as before. 

Raspberry Bavarian Cream may be made exactly as above. 

COFFEE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

BAVAROISE AU CAFE. 

3 tablespoons of ground Mocha, I pint of new milk, 

4 e gg s > yolks only, i cup of sugar, 

^ box of Cox's gelatine, % " " cold water, 

I pint of whipped cream. 

Put the cream on the ice for some time, to get it thor- 
oughly cold. 

Throw the freshly-ground coffee into the boiling milk ; 
cover and stand on the corner of the range for 1 5 minutes. 
Then add the sugar ; stir until dissolved. Remove from 
the fire and stir it into the well-beaten yolks. Stir steadily. 



456 GOOD-LIVING. 

When well mixed, strain It into a clean farina-kettle and set it 
over boiling water on the fire ; stir until the custard thickens 
a little. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle. While hot, 
pour it over the gelatine which has been soaking for about 
2 hours in cold water. Stir until dissolved. Strain it into 
a bowl and put it on the ice. When beginning to set, have 
the cream ready whipped ; stir the coffee over ice, and finish 
as directed for Bavarian Cream (see receipt). 

ORANGE BA VARIAN CREAM. 

BAVAROISE A L'ORANGE. 

Yz box Cox's gelatine, i cup of white sugar, 

I pint of cream, i pint of new milk, 

5 oranges, 5 eggs, yolks only. 

Put the cream on the ice for hours before using, and get it 
thoroughly cold. 

Cover the gelatine with cold water. Soak it I to 2 hours. 
Bring the milk to a boil. When boiling, throw it over the 
gelatine and stir until dissolved. Beat the yolks and sugar 
to a cream, then stir the gelatine and milk into them. Stir 
it over the fire in a clean saucepan for 2 minutes ; then 
strain it into a bowl and set away to cool. It must not boil, 
or it will curdle. When cold, stir in the strained juice of the 
oranges. Whip the cream as directed for Bavarian Cream 
(see receipt). When the custard is very cold and beginning 
to set, stir it over ice until perfectly smooth and thick ; add 
the whipped cream and finish as directed. Serve with plain 
or whipped cream. 

SNOW CREAM. 

NEIGE. 

4 whites of eggs, i teaspoon of vanilla, 

I pint of cream, whipped, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 

1 tablespoon of sherry. 

Beat the whites until foamy ; add the sifted sugar by 
degrees, beating steadily ; then beat until stiff and glossy. 



CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO I. 457 

Add sherry and vanilla. Whip the cream (which has been 
on the ice for hours) to a stiff froth, over a pan of ice. Stir 
it carefully into the meringue. Serve in small custard 
glasses, very cold. You may add to the above a few sweet 
almonds, blanched and chopped very fine. Very simple for 
summer dessert. 

WHIPPED CREAM. 
creme fouettee. 

The secret of whipping cream easily is, first of all, to have 
good cream, and then to set it on the ice for several hours 
before it is required. When that time arrives, sweeten the 
cream to taste ; add a few drops of Jamaica rum ; set the 
bowl in a pan of cracked ice. Have beside you a second 
bowl ; beat the cream with a Dover egg-beater. As the 
froth rises, remove it to the second bowl. If the whip 
is required to be very stiff indeed, remove the froth to a 
sieve, and, as the unbeaten cream drains from it, that can be 
returned to the bowl and beaten again. 

If the cream itself is not very thick, and you are in doubt 
about it, dissolve \ of an ounce of gelatine in a very little cold 
milk for I hour, then place the cup in boiling water on the fire, 
and stir until the gelatine dissolves. When this is cold, but 
not set, it can be whipped into the cream prepared as above. 
In this way the whip will be quite firm after setting it on the 
ice for I or 2 hours. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO. I. 

I quart of sweet cream, Whites of 10 eggs, 

Vanilla to taste, . I pound of powdered sugar, 

% box of gelatine (Cox's). 

Dissolve the gelatine in £ a pint of cold water. Soak 2 
hours ; pour over it £ a pint of boiling water ; set over the 
fire for a minute to scald ; stir and strain. Set away to cool. 
Beat the sugar and cream, removing to another bowl, on ice, 
the froth as it rises. When the gelatine is cold, beat it and 



458 GOOD-LIVING. 

the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and add these to the 
cream. Rinse out moulds with cold water, and line them 
with cake (see Charlotte Russe Cake, or Layer Sponge) ; 
fill them with the cream, and set away in a cold place until 
firm. The above may also be made with the whites of 6 eggs 
to the quart of cream. When stiff, turn it out on a cut paper, 
and serve. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO. II. 

}£ ounce of gelatine (Cox's), i cup of milk, 

i gill of sugar, i beaten egg, 

Small pinch of salt, I pint of cream, 

I small teaspoon of vanilla, Charlotte Russe Cake. 

Dissolve the gelatine in a little cold water. Heat the 
milk. When nearly boiling, stir in the sugar and beaten 
egg, together with the salt. Stir briskly. Add the vanilla 
and gelatine. Remove from the fire, strain through a sieve, 
and set away to cool. Whip the Cream as directed (see re- 
ceipt), removing the froth to a sieve. When the milk is 
cold, mix all lightly and quickly together, and pour into 
a mould which has been lined with cake (see receipt). Set 
it immediately on the ice, and, when firm, turn out on a cut 
paper, and serve. 

CHARLOTTE PARISIENNE. 

y^ box of Cox's gelatine, 4 ounces of macaroons, 

1 cup of grated cocoa-nut, 1 quart of cream, 

4 ounces of stale lady-fingers, 4 eggs, 

2 tablespoons of sugar. 

Cover the gelatine with a little cold water and let it soak 
for 1 to 2 hours. Have the cream thoroughly chilled. Whip 
1 pint of it (see Whipped Cream) and set away on the ice 
until required. Bring the remaining pint of cream to a boil 
in the farina-kettle. Beat together eggs and sugar until well 
mixed. When the cream boils, pour a little of it upon the 
eggs, stirring briskly ; pour this in turn back into the kettle 



ORANGE CREAM. 459 

and stir constantly for about 1 minute, until it thickens. Do 
not let it boil again, or it will curdle. Stir in the gelatine. 
Remove from the fire ; strain into a bowl ; add the powdered 
macaroons and lady-fingers, the cocoa-nut, and vanilla to 
taste. Stand aside until cold and just beginning to set. 
Then place the bowl in a pan of cracked ice, and stir until 
smooth and thick ; then beat in the whipped cream. Mix 
evenly with as few strokes as possible. Rinse out a mould 
with cold water. Fill it with the mixture and set away on 
the ice. When firm, turn out on a cut paper and serve 
immediately. 

Or, hollow out a stale, round sponge-cake, leaving the 
bottom and sides \ an inch thick. Fill with the mixture 
and set away to harden. Serve with sweetened cream or 
Custard Sauce, very cold. 

COFFEE CREAM. 

GELEE AU CAFE. 

^ ounce of Cox's gelatine, 1 gill of sugar, 

1 gill of strong coffee, 3 gills of cream. 

Soak the gelatine 1 hour in £ a gill of cold milk. Add the 
boiling coffee and the sugar. Stir and dissolve. Place it 
over boiling water on the fire if not quite melted, and stir 
until dissolved. Remove from the fire. When cool, stir in 
the cream. Rinse out a mould with cold water. Strain the 
mixture into it, and set away on the ice to harden. Turn 
out on a cut paper and serve immediately. 

ORANGE CREAM. 

GELEE A LA CREME D'ORANGE. 

3 gills of cream, Yolks of 2 eggs, 

2 " " sugar, y 2 ounce of Cox's gelatine, 
1 gill of orange-juice, Grated rind of 1 orange, 

% gill of cold water. 

Soak the gelatine 2 hours in \ a gill of cold water. Mean- 
while soak the orange-rind in the orange-juice. Then melt 



460 GOOD-LIVING. 

the gelatine by setting the bowl over boiling water on the 
fire. Add the orange-juice. When quite hot and the gela- 
tine is dissolved, remove it from the fire and add carefully 
the yolk beaten with the sugar. Stir briskly. Place it again 
on the fire over hot water and stir until it thickens ; but do 
not let it boil, or it will curdle. Then remove ; stir in the 
cream. Strain the jelly into a mould which has been rinsed 
with cold water. Set away on the ice to harden ; turn out 
on a cut paper ; serve very cold with cream. 

VELVET CREAM. 

CREME VELOUTEE. 

2 gills of white wine, Juice of 1 lemon, 

y^ box of Cox's gelatine, Sugar to taste, 

1 pint of cream. 

Soak the gelatine in the wine for 2 hours. Set it over 
boiling water on the fire and stir until it dissolves, but do 
not let it boil. Then dissolve the sugar with the gelatine. 
Remove from the fire ; when cool, add the lemon-juice, then 
the cream. Stir until quite cold. Rinse out a mould with 
cold water. Strain the cream into it, and set away on the ice 
to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream. 

SPANISH CREAM. 

^ box of Cox's gelatine, 5 eggs, 

1 gill of soft sugar, ij£ pints of milk, 

1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 gill of powdered sugar. 

Cover the gelatine with cold milk or water, using no more 
than is necessary. Soak from I to 2 hours. Bring the milk 
to a boil. Beat the yolks and soft sugar together in a bowl 
until light ; pour a little of the boiling milk upon the eggs 
and sugar. Beat well together ; then in turn pour the eggs 
into the milk which is on the fire. Turn the gelatine into the 
milk and stir over boiling water until the gelatine dissolves 
and the eggs begin to thicken slightly. Do not let it boil or 
the eggs will curdle. Remove from the fire ; strain ; add the 



SNOW PUDDING. 461 

vanilla. Rinse out a fancy mould with cold water ; pour the 
mixture into it. Set away on the ice until firm. When 
ready to serve, beat the whites of eggs to a foam; add the 
powdered sugar gradually, and beat until stiff and glossy. 
Turn out the cream on a cut paper ; heap the meringue 
around it, and serve very cold. 

GELATINE PUDDING. 

4 eggs, I pint of milk, 

yi box of Cox's gelatine, Sugar to taste, 

Vanilla, ^ cup of boiling water (1^ gills). 

Bring the milk to a boil. Beat in a bowl the yolks of 
eggs with about 2 level tablespoonfuls of sugar. When the 
milk boils, stir it carefully into the eggs ; sweeten to taste. 
Put the eggs and milk into a saucepan over boiling water, 
and stir steadily until slightly thickened ; but do not boil, or 
the eggs will curdle. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, soak 
the gelatine in about 1 gill of cold water for 2 hours ; pour 
over it the boiling water ; stir until dissolved ; strain and 
set aside until cold and just about to set. When the cus- 
tard, flavored to taste with vanilla, is cold, beat the whites 
of eggs and gelatine first separately, then together, to a stiff 
froth. Add these to the custard and beat well. Rinse out 
a mould with cold water ; pour in the mixture, and set away 
to harden. It will settle in 3 layers, making a dessert which 
is pleasing to both eye and palate. Turn out of the mould 
on a cut paper, and serve very cold. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

y$ box of Cox's gelatine, Juice of one lemon, 

1 cup of sugar, Slice of lemon-rind, 

2 whites of eggs, y£ pint of boiling water, 
% pint of cold water, y^ " " wine. 

Put the gelatine to soak in the cold water for I hour with 
a piece of lemon-rind. Then pour over it the boiling water ; 
set it on the fire and stir until dissolved. Add the sugar, 
lemon-juice, and wine. When the sugar is all melted, 



462 GOOD-LIVING, 

strain the jelly into a bowl, and set away in a cool place. 
The liquid should measure 1 full pint. In summer, it is 
better to make it a little scant measure, as it does not 
stiffen as well. When the jelly is cool, beat the whites of 
eggs to a very stiff froth. Fill your quart mould with cold 
water, and let it stand while the pudding is being prepared. 
As soon as the jelly is set a little firm, beat it smooth with 
a Dover egg-beater ; then beat into it the whites of eggs. 
In summer it is best to stand the bowl in ice while you are 
beating. When all is beaten smoothly together, throw the 
cold water out of the mould ; fill it with the mixture, and 
set in a cold place to harden. When firm, turn it out and 
serve either with Whipped-Cream Sauce, or with a Custard 
Sauce, very cold. If you do not use wine, use the juice of 
2 lemons, and make up the necessary amount of liquid with 
boiling water. Excellent. 

COLD CABINET PUDDING. 

Prepare a cream blanc-mange or Velvet Cream (see re- 
ceipt). Before it is stiff, put a little into a mould which 
has been rinsed in cold water ; let it run all over to coat 
the surface thinly ; ornament it with candied cherries, 
etc. Fill the mould loosely with firm, preserved candied 
or brandied fruits, macaroons, stale sponge-cake soaked in 
wine, and a little citron sliced very thin. Then fill the 
mould slowly and carefully with the blanc-mange, which 
should be now as thick as batter ; stand it on the ice for 
several hours, until perfectly firm ; then turn it out on a cut 
paper, and serve with cream. 

GELBE SPEISE. 

8 ounces of sugar, 1 pint of boiling water, 

2 " " citron, sliced thin, 1 ounce of gelatine, 

1 large lemon, juice and grated rind, 2 ounces of stoned raisins, 

5 whites of eggs, 9 yolks of eggs, 

1 quart of cold water. 

Soak the gelatine for 1 hour in 1 quart of cold water. See 
that it is kept covered by the water. Beat the yolks of 



ORANGE JELLY IN BASKETS. 463 

eggs with the juice and grated rind of lemon and the sugar. 
Strain the gelatine from the water, and put it into a 
2-quart saucepan. Pour over this I pint of boiling water. 
Stir until dissolved. Pour £ of this over the eggs and 
sugar ; stir briskly ; then stir this back into the pail con- 
taining the remaining half of the gelatine, stirring very 
quickly all the time. Set the pail over boiling water on the 
fire and stir until it becomes as thick as boiled custard. Do 
not boil, or it will curdle. Remove and set in a cold place 
until as thick as batter. . Beat the whites to a stiff froth. 
Add the fruit to the jelly ; mix ; then add the whites. 
Beat thoroughly together with as few strokes as possible. 
Rinse out 2 pint-moulds with cold water ; fill with the 
mixture, and set away on the ice to harden. Turn out on 
cut paper, and serve very cold with. cream or Whipped- 
Cream Sauce (see receipt). 

ORANGE JELLY IN BASKETS. 

GELEE A L'ORANGE. 

12 oranges, 1 box of Cox's gelatine, 

1 gill of curacoa, Sugar to taste. 

Squeeze the oranges, which should be fine, large Floridas ; 
extract every drop of juice. Put a boxful of gelatine, with 
enough of the juice to cover it well, to soak for 1 hour or 
more. Now set the bowl in boiling water and stir until the 
gelatine is dissolved. Add the rest of the juice ; sweeten to 
taste. Then add a wine-glass of best curacoa. Strain the 
jelly through a very fine strainer or coarse muslin, and set to 
harden in a mould which has been rinsed out with cold 
water. There should be 1 quart and 1 pint of jelly in all. 
If the oranges have not yielded all the juice required, make 
up the quantity of liquid by adding boiling water. This 
jelly is not crystal-clear, but is delicious. If you can take 
the time and trouble, it is much prettier to serve the jelly in 
orange-baskets made as follows : 

Before making the jelly, cut your oranges in this way : 
have a very sharp knife with which make a cut across the 



464 GOOD-LIVING. 

stem end of the orange, just escaping the hole of the stem, 
and going ^-way through the fruit ; \ an inch from this, 
make a second cut the same depth ; this will make the 
handle, so that the stem-hole must not appear in it, or in- 
deed anywhere on the basket. Now turn the fruit, and 
make an incision at right angles to the cut made for the han- 
dle, which 2 cuts must join, thus detaching a piece like a 
small quarter of the orange. Turn the fruit to the opposite 
side and do the same, being careful that the 2 side-cuts are 
exactly on a level. This makes the basket. Now, with a 
sharp knife, carefully cut the fruit from the inner-side of the 
handle and basket, taking the greatest care not to pierce the 
skin anywhere. Loosen it with a teaspoon and scoop out 
fruit, juice, seeds, and all the pithy, white pulp that can be 
safely scraped away. -Save every drop of the juice for the jelly 
as first directed. The quantity of jelly given in the receipt 
should fill the 12 baskets quite full, leaving a little over, which 
put on a shallow dish and set away to harden with the rest. 
When firm, tie colored bows of fresh ribbon on the handles 
of the baskets ; dish them on a pretty, round dish ; crumb 
up with a fork the extra jelly in the shallow dish, and pile it 
around and between the baskets. This makes really such a 
pretty and delicious dessert, at so little expense, that if you 
have time to give to it, it will repay you for the trouble. At 
the pastry-cook's, you will pay $3.50 to $4.00 a dozen for 
these, which, made at home, and quite as good, will not cost 
more than 75 cents, in winter, when oranges are plentiful. 

N. B. — Use pure orange-juice for the jelly as far as possi- 
ble, adding boiling water only if absolutely necessary. 

LEMON JELLY. 

GELEE AU CITRON. 

1 ounce of Cox's gelatine, 2 gills of cold water, 

5 large lemons, juice only, White and shell of 1 egg, 

2 cups of soft sugar, or to taste, 1^ pints of boiling water. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water for 2 hours. Cut a 
few strips of lemon-rind ; put these to soak with the gela- 



WINE JELL Y. 465 

tine. Now pour the boiling water on the gelatine ; add 
sugar, lemon-juice, and white of egg, slightly beaten, also 
the shell, crushed. Let it boil briskly for 3 minutes ; then 
set the kettle on the hearth for 5 minutes. Skim. Pass 
through a jelly-bag, once or twice, until sufficiently clear. 
Rinse out a large mould with cold water ; fill with the jelly 
and set in a cold place to harden. Turn out on a cut paper 
and serve with or without Custard Sauce (see receipt). 

PLUM-PUDDING MADE OVER. 

Line a Charlotte-Russe mould with slices of cold Plum- 
Pudding or Wedding Cake, fitted closely together. Fill the 
centre with Gelatine Pudding or Velvet Cream (see receipts). 
Set in a cold place to harden. When firm, turn out and 
serve with a cold Custard or Brandy Sauce (see receipts), 
poured around. 

WINE JELLY. 

GELEE AU VIN DE MADERE. 

1 box of Cox's gelatine, 1 pint of cold water, 

1 pint of sherry, with a little brandy, 3 lemons, juice and peel, 
\% pounds of soft sugar, 1 quart of boiling water, 

2 whites of eggs, well beaten, 2 shells of eggs, crushed, 

1 small stick of cinnamon, about 2 inches long. 

Soak the gelatine in cold water, for 1 hour or more. Then 
pour over it the boiling water. Add eggs, shells, sugar, 
lemon-juice, and the yellow part of the rind, and cinnamon. 
Bring to a boil. Let it boil 3 minutes without stirring, then 
set it on the hearth for 5 minutes. Skim. Add the wine, 
which should be perfectly clear. Pass all through a jelly-bag 
once, or until clear. Rinse out moulds with cold water. 
Fill with the jelly and set away in a cold place to harden. 
Champagne, brandy, madeira, maraschino, rum, or kirsch 
may be added, in combination or separately, to the above, if 
the quantity of wine does not exceed the proportions set 
30 



466 GOOD-LIVING. 

down. In summer, less water should be used, as the jelly 
does not harden so easily : the quantity of liquid should then 
measure 3 pints in all. 

FANCY JELLY. 

GELEE FANTAISIE. 

1 box of Cox's gelatine, Juice of 2 lemons, 

2 gills of sherry, " " " oranges, 
2 " " cold water, i pound of sugar, 

I gill of brandy, i quart of boiling water. 

Cover the gelatine with the cold water and soak I hour or 
more. Add sugar and boiling water. Set over the fire and 
stir until sugar and gelatine are dissolved. Add lemon- and 
orange-juice, sherry, and brandy. Rinse out a mould with 
cold water. Fill it with jelly, strained through a jelly-bag or 
fine sieve. Set away to harden. The jelly will not be per- 
fectly clear on account of the fruit-juice, but the excellence 
of its flavor will more than compensate for its slight cloudi- 
ness. 

N. B. — In summer lessen the quantity of cold water, as the 
weather will prevent its hardening as well as in winter. The 
liquid should in this case measure 3 pints in all. 

MACEDOINE OF FRULT. 

MACEDOINE DE FRUITS. 

Make very clear Wine Jelly (see receipt). Champagne is 
recommended for the jelly. Have ready either small fresh 
fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, cherries, sliced apri- 
cots or peaches, or sections of oranges skinned and seeded ; 
or use preserved or brandied fruits — these last preferably. 
Rinse out the mould in cold water. Pour in jelly to the 
depth of £ an inch. Set on the ice to harden. Keep the 
rest of the jelly cool, but where it will not harden. When 
the jelly in the mould is set, lay in some fruit, neatly and 
tastefully; pour over this only just enough jelly to barely 



TIPSY CAKE. 467 

cover (any more will make the fruit float). Set away again 
to harden. Repeat this process until the mould is filled. If 
preferred, alternate with layers of plain jelly. When full, 
set away for several hours to harden well. If there is any 
plain jelly left, set it aside, and when it is stiffening, beat it 
to a froth and serve around the Macedoine. Or set it to 
harden in shallow dishes, and, when ready for use, crumb it 
with a fork and heap it around the base of the Macedoine 
when ready to serve, turned out on a dish. This adds 
greatly to the effect of this very pretty dessert. 

PINE-APPLE SNOW. 

NEIGE A L'ANANAS. 

4 whites of eggs, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 

1 pint of cream, whipped, 1 pine-apple. 

Pare, remove the eyes, and grate the pine-apple. Put the 
pulp upon a sieve to drain. Mix the snow as directed in 
receipt for Snow Cream. When all is ready and the cream 
whipped very stiff, beat in the pine-apple pulp, adding as 
much as the cream and meringue will hold without becoming 
too soft. Serve very cold in custard glasses. 

TRIFLE. 

Cream, • Sherry, 

Raspberry-jam, Cake. 

Put I layer of stale cake, Sponge or Layer Cake No. I. or 
No. II. (see receipts) in the bottom of a round dish ; spread 
it over with a thick layer of raspberry- or strawberry-jam 
or jelly ; baste it, by the spoonful, with sherry until the cake 
will absorb no more. Beat about 1 pint of rich cream to a 
very stiff froth (see receipt). Heap this over the cake, and 
decorate to taste. Very simple and delicious. 

TIPSY CAKE. 

PAN BORACHO. 

Prepare the stale cake as above with jam and wine. Make 
about 1 pint of rich Custard (see receipt), and pour it over 



468 GOOD-LIVING. 

the cake. Reserve 2 of the whites of egg from the custard 
and beat them to a stiff froth ; a little jelly may be beaten 
through the whites when they are stiff. Heap this over the 
custard, and serve very cold. Or, serve in individual cus- 
tard-glasses. Delicious. 

ITALIAN CUSTARD. 

CREME ITALIENNE. 

Allow I egg to each person. Beat the yolks to a cream ; 
add sugar and lemon-juice to taste, beating all the while. 
The eggs should thicken like cream. Put this into custard- 
glasses. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. When perfectly 
stiff, whip in a little currant-jelly, and beat until evenly col- 
ored. Heap this upon the custard in the glasses. Set in 
the ice-box, and serve very cold. Delicious. 

BOILED CUSTARD. 

CREME. 

1 quart of new milk, 5 eggs, 

7.y z tablespoons of sugar, Flavoring to taste. 

Small pinch of salt, 

Put the milk on the fire in a farina-kettle. Beat the eggs 
together in a bowl with the sugar and salt, until creamy. 
When the milk is boiling, pour it by degrees into the eggs 
and sugar, very gradually, stirring briskly all the time. 
Strain this back into the farina-kettle ; set it again on the 
fire where it will heat, but not boil, or it will curdle. Stir 
constantly until it thickens. Remove from the fire, and add 
flavoring to taste. Set away to cool. The only danger in 
making boiled custard is that it may curdle. If the above 
directions are strictly observed, and new milk used for the 
purpose, it will not curdle. Or, the custard may be made 
with yolks only, allowing 6 to the quart of milk. It must 
be stirred longer over the fire, as it will thicken more slowly. 
In this latter case, the whites of eggs may be used for Angel 
Cake, etc., etc. (see receipts). 



CARAMEL CUSTARD. 469 

CREME BACH I QUE. 

1 pint of good white wine, 7 or 8 yolks of eggs, 

Lemon-peel or stick-cinnamon, Sugar to taste. 

Put the wine, lemon-peel, or cinnamon, and sugar (about 1 
gill) into a saucepan. Bring it slowly to a boil. Beat the 
yolks of eggs to a cream. When the wine boils, remove it 
and pour gently upon the yolks, stirring briskly all the time. 
Add more sugar if required. Have ready small custard- 
cups in a baking-pan. Strain the custard into the cups. 
Pour boiling water into the pan to about half the height of 
the cups, and bake in a moderately-quick oven until set, 
from 10 to 12 minutes. Do not let them harden too much. 
Serve very cold. 

BAKED COFFEE CUSTARD. 

CREME AU CAFE. 

I quart of new milk, 6 eggs, 

3 heaping tablespoons of ground coffee, Sugar to taste. 

Use, if you can, Mocha and Java coffees mixed. Grind 
the coffee. Put it into a saucepan with the milk ; bring it 
to boiling point ; then set it aside on the range and let it 
steep for about 15 minutes, covered. Meanwhile, break the 
eggs into a bowl and beat enough to mix. Add about 3 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and beat well together. Bring the 
coffee and milk once more to a boil and strain it, boiling, 
into the bowl of eggs, stirring briskly. Sweeten to taste. 
Have ready 12 small custard-cups in a baking-pan. Strain 
the custard into the cups. Fill the pan with boiling water 
to half the height of the custard-cups. Bake in a moder- 
ately-quick oven 10 to 12 minutes, until the custard is just 
set ; do not let it bake hard. It will become firmer as it 
cools. 

CARAMEL CUSTARD. 

CREME AU CARAMEL. 

1 pint of brown sugar, 3 pints of milk, 

7 eggs 

Melt the sugar, until liquid, in a frying-pan, then add it 
slowly to the boiling milk, stirring constantly. Beat the 



470 GOOD-LIVING. 

eggs in a bowl. Stir the boiling milk into them by degrees, 
stirring briskly all the while. Have ready small custard-cups 
in a baking-pan. Strain the custard into the cups. Fill the 
pan with boiling water to half the height of the cups ; put 
it into a moderately-quick oven for io to 12 minutes, until 
set, but not hard. It will grow firmer as it cools. Serve 
very cold. 



CHOCOLATE AND OTHER BAKED CUSTARDS. 

CREME AU CHOCOLAT, ETC. 

Proceed exactly as directed for Coffee Custard, using, in- 
stead, vanilla or other flavoring to taste. If chocolate is 
used, allow about 2 ounces of Maillard's or Huyler's best to 
I quart of milk. Dissolve the chocolate in the milk, and 
proceed as directed, using 12 small cups or I large dish. 

COLD CUSTARD OR JUNKET. 

I quart of new milk, Sugar to taste, 

1 tablespoon of rennet. 

Heat the milk to blood-heat, but do not boil. Have ready 
in a glass bowl the rennet and sugar. When the milk is 
warm, not scalding, pour it into the bowl, stirring only just 
enough to mix. Grate nutmeg over the top, and set in a 
cool place until the milk becomes firm. Serve very cold. 
Whey for the use of invalids may be made in like manner, 
using a little more rennet. When it has stood long enough, 
the curd will separate and the whey can be drained off. A 
little sherry or vanilla may be added to the above as 
flavoring. 

SLIP. 

The same as Junket, flavored with Jamaica rum. Serve 
very cold with a pitcher of cream. 



COCOA-NUT CREAM BLANC-MANGE. 4 1 / 1 

CHOCOLA TE BLANC-MANGE. 

1 quart of new milk, Sugar to taste, 

4 heaping tablespoons of corn-starch, 2 ounces of grated chocolate, 

I teaspoon of vanilla. 

When the milk has come to a boil, pour it into a bowl 
over the grated chocolate ; when dissolved, return to the fire 
and stir smooth. Measure the corn-starch into a small bowl ; 
pour a little cold water on it and rub until absolutely smooth, 
adding just enough cold water to make it pour easily. When 
the milk boils, pour in the corn-starch and stir constantly 
until it thickens and cooks thoroughly, 4 or 5 minutes. 
Taste to see that the corn-starch is perfectly smooth and 
cooked ; if not, stir and boil longer. Remove from the 
fire ; stir in enough sugar to make it very sweet, and vanilla 
to taste. The yolks of 2 eggs may be added if liked, but 
are not necessary. Rinse a 3-pint mould with cold water ; 
drain and pour in the mixture, which should be quite thick. 
Set away for several hours in a cold place until firm. Serve 
with good cream or cold Custard Sauce (see receipt). The 
blanc-mange should be very firm when turned out. If made 
as above, it should be perfectly smooth and free from lumps. 

COCOA-NUT CREAM BLANC-MANGE. 

2 cups of grated cocoa-nut, 4 tablespoons of corn-starch, 

1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 pint of milk, 

4 e gg s > 1 gill °f s °ft sugar. 

Bring the milk to a boil. Measure 4 level tablespoonfuls 
of corn-starch ; blend perfectly smooth with a little cold 
milk ; when the milk boils, stir in the corn-starch ; stir and boil 
until it thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste, to see that the corn- 
starch is perfectly'smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
stiff froth. Add the sugar to the corn-starch, then the whites 
of eggs, and beat well over the fire for 3 minutes, but do not 
boil or it will curdle. Add the cocoa-nut and vanilla. 
Rinse out a mould with cold water ; pour in the mixture 
and set away on the ice to harden. Serve with Custard 



472 GOOD-LIVING. 

Sauce made of the yolks of the eggs and flavored with 
vanilla. 

N. B. — If the milk is not quite thick enough, before add- 
ing sugar and eggs, stir in a little more corn-starch, blended 
as above. 

CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE. 

i quart of new milk, I gill of sugar, 

8 level tablespoons of corn-starch, Pinch of salt, 

Flavoring to taste. 

Bring the milk to a boil in a farina-kettle. Blend the 
corn-starch with a little cold milk, and, when the milk in the 
kettle boils, stir in the corn-starch. Stir without intermission 
until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Taste to see that the 
corn-starch is perfectly smooth ; if not, boil a little longer. 
Remove from the fire ; stir in the sugar, salt, and flavoring. 
Rinse out a mould with cold water. Pour in the corn-starch 
and set away on the ice to cool and harden. Serve very 
cold with Custard Sauce, flavored with vanilla. 

N. B. — The above is greatly improved by the addition, 
when removed from the fire, of 2 eggs well beaten in. Fin- 
ish as directed. 

RODGROD (DANISH). 

Take fresh raspberries ; sweeten to taste and set in a china- 
lined saucepan on the fire to scald. When the fruit begins 
to dissolve, press it through a sieve, taking all but the seeds. 
Put the juice again on the fire, measuring the quantity. To 
every quart of juice, allow about 3 heaping tablespoonfuls 
of corn-starch. Blend the corn-starch with a little of the 
cold juice. When the juice in the saucepan comes to a boil, 
stir in the corn-starch and continue to stir until it has boiled 
3 to 5 minutes, is thick and transparent (not milky). Taste 
to see that the corn-starch is perfectly smooth ; if not, boil a 
little longer. Remove from the fire and stir in currant-jelly 
to taste. (Or some fresh currants may be stewed with the 



TAPIOCA JELLY. 473 

raspberries, allowing about I part of currants to 3 parts of 
raspberries.) Have ready blanched about 2 gills of almonds 
to 1 quart of juice. Cut the almonds into shreds and stir 
them into the mixture. Rinse out a mould with cold water ; 
fill with the mixture, and set away to harden. It should not 
become quite as stiff as blanc-mange. Serve in a glass dish 
with a pitcher of very thick cream. Or, the same may be 
made with Cox's gelatine, using I ounce of gelatine to I 
quart of juice. Delicious. 

FRUIT BLANC-MANGE. 

KISELLE. 

Stew any kind of fresh fruit, such as raspberries, strawber- 
ries, etc. ; strain off the juice and sweeten to taste. Measure 
the juice and put it again on the fire. To every pint of 
juice allow 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, blended 
with a little cold water. When the juice boils, stir in the 
corn-starch, and continue to stir until the corn-starch is 
thoroughly done, which will require about 5 minutes' boil- 
ing. Taste, and if perfectly smooth, pour it into moulds 
which have been rinsed out with cold water. Set in a cold 
place to harden ; when firm, turn out and serve with cream 
and sugar. It may be set to harden in small teacups. Recom- 
mended. 

TAPIOCA JELLY. 

GELEE DE TAPIOCA. 

4 cups of cold water, 1 lemon, juice and grated rind, 

1 cup of tapioca, soaked 4 or 5 hours, Sugar to taste. 

Soak the tapioca in the water as directed, or overnight ; 
add the sugar ; set on the fire in a farina-kettle, and boil I 
hour, or until perfectly transparent. When nearly cooked, 
add lemon-juice and a little of the grated rind. Rinse out 
small moulds or cups with cold water ; fill with the mixture 
and set in a cold place to harden. Turn out and serve very 
cold with sweetened cream or Custard Sauce (see receipt). 
Excellent for children and invalids. 



474 GOOD-LIVING. 

TAPIOCA WHIP. 

3 tablespoons of tapioca, I quart of new milk, 

3 eggs, Vanilla and sugar to taste. 

Soak the tapioca in water overnight. Next day put the 
milk on to boil ; dry the tapioca and stir it into the milk. 
Boil until thoroughly tender, about 30 minutes. Beat the 
yolks of the eggs. Remove the tapioca from the fire ; flavor, 
sweeten, and stir in the yolks very carefully. Return to the 
fire over boiling water and stir for 2 or 3 minutes, but do not 
boil, or the eggs will curdle. Set away to cool. Beat the 
whites of eggs to a stiff froth. When the tapioca is very 
cold, whip in half of the whites. Put into custard-glasses. 
To the remaining whites, add powdered sugar to the thick- 
ness of a meringue, and heap this on the top of the whip. 
Serve very cold. 

APPLE WHIP. 

1 pint of Boiled Custard, i pint of Apple Sauce, 

Sugar and vanilla to taste. 

Make the custard according to receipt. Prepare the Apple 
Sauce (see receipt) ; press through the colander. When 
cold, whip both together. Add vanilla and sugar to taste. 
If liked, the whites of 2 eggs may be beaten to a stiff froth and 
beaten into the whip at the last minute. Serve very cold. 

BEIGNETS SOUFFLES. 

1 cup of boiling water, I cup of sifted flour, 

2 tablespoons of sugar, Grated lemon-peel, 

4 whole eggs, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

1 white of egg, Pinch of salt, 

yi teaspoon of vanilla, Lard for frying. 

Put the butter, salt, sugar, lemon, and water together in 
a saucepan. Let them boil. Remove from the fire and stir 
in enough flour to make a paste (about 1 cupful). Stir over 



COQUETTES. 475 

the fire until perfectly smooth and until so thick that it be- 
gins to leave the sides of the saucepan. Then remove from 
the fire ; beat in the eggs, one at a time ; beat very hard ; 
add finally the white, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter 
should be thick enough to drop slowly from the spoon. Set 
in the ice-box for 2 hours. Have ready in a saucepan the 
lard, which should be at least 2 inches deep when melted, so 
that the beignets may puff and cook without touching the 
bottom. Bring the lard to a boil ; test it with a piece of 
the batter. If it is ready, drop in pieces of the batter as 
large as a nut. Fry until golden-brown on all sides. Re- 
move with a skimmer to a paper in the mouth of the oven, 
to dry, and when ready to serve, sift powdered sugar over 
them. Pile in a pyramid on a cut paper and serve very hot. 
They should be round and very light, if successful. 



COQUETTES. 

I ounce of butter, 1 pint of flour, 

1 pint of boiling water, 5 eggs. 

Put the water in the saucepan, and, when boiling, remove 
from the fire and stir in the flour, mixing well. Stir it over 
the fire until it thickens and begins to leave the sides of the 
saucepan. Remove it, beat in the butter and the eggs, one 
at a time, very thoroughly. Have ready deep boiling lard. 
When boiling, drop in the batter by bits the size of a walnut. 
For directions for frying, see Beignets Souffles. Fry golden 
brown. Remove with a skimmer to a piece of brown paper 
in the mouth of the oven to drain ; sift with fine sugar and 
serve in a pyramid on cut paper. The batter requires a great 
deal of beating, both before, and when, the eggs are in, but 
(the receipt goes on to say) "the coquettes are, so beautiful 
and delicious that one is repaid for the trouble of making 
.them." 

N. B. — This batter baked in spoonfuls on tin makes crusts 
for Cream Puffs. 



476 GOOD-LIVING. 

CREME FRITE. 

i pint of new milk, Lard, 

3 yolks of eggs, i gill of sugar, 

2 tablespoons of corn -starch, Butter the size of a hickory-nut, 

i tablespoon of sifted flour, i teaspoon of vanilla, 

I egg for dipping, i inch of stick-cinnamon, 

Cracker-dust. 

Blend the corn-starch and flour with a little cold milk. 
Put the rest of the milk and cinnamon to boil in a farina- 
kettle. When it boils, stir in the corn-starch and flour. 
Stir and boil 3 minutes, or until the flour is thoroughly- 
cooked. Remove from the fire, and stir in the yolks of eggs, 
beaten to a cream with the sugar. Return to the fire, and 
stir over boiling water for a few minutes until thickened, but 
do not boil, or it will curdle. Take out the cinnamon ; stir 
in butter and vanilla. Pour \ an inch deep into a shallow, 
buttered dish to cool. When cold and firm, cut into rounds 
or squares to taste ; dip carefully in sifted cracker-dust, then 
in egg slightly beaten, then again in cracker. Fry in deep 
boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying). Set in the 
oven 4 or 5 minutes to soften the cream inside. Sprinkle 
with sugar, and serve hot in a pyramid on cut paper. 

BATTER FOR FRUIT FRITTERS. 

1 heaping cup of flour, I or 2 tablespoons of brandy or rum 

I tablespoon of olive oil, 2 eggs, 

Cold water. 

Mix the yolks of eggs with the flour, then add the oil and 
liquor (substituting wine or lemon-juice, if preferred) ; thin 
with water, to the consistency of thick cream. Add lastly 
the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Dip the fruit, etc., 
into this, and fry in boiling lard. The batter should be thick 
enough to coat the fruit thoroughly (see receipts for Fritters). 

FRENCH BA TTER. 

4 ounces of sifted flour, 2 gills of milk, 

I level tablespoon of olive oil, i egg, 

Pinch of salt. 

Beat the egg, white and yolk together. Add milk, salt, 
and oil to it. Mix and pour this upon the flour. Blend 



PEACH FRITTERS, 477 

perfectly smooth. It should be of the consistency of rich 
cream. Use for fruit fritters, dipping the fruit into it, and 
boiling in lard as directed. Apples for fritters should always 
be scalded for 5 minutes before dipping in the batter, or 
the fruit will still be raw when the batter is cooked. These 
fritters should be pale golden-yellow. 

PLAIN FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS. 

1 pint of new milk, 3 eggs, 

Pinch of salt, 1 pint of flour, 

1 teaspoon of baking-powder, Flavoring to taste. 

Beat the eggs, whites and yolks apart. Sift the salt and 
baking-powder with the flour (the baking-powder may be 
omitted, if preferred). Stir the eggs and milk into the 
flour ; flavor to taste ; add, lastly, the whites of eggs, beaten 
to a stiff froth. Fry by the teaspoonful in deep boiling lard 
(see Beignets Souffles). When golden-brown, remove with 
a skimmer to brown paper in the mouth of the oven. When 
dry, sift powdered sugar over; serve in a pyramid on cut 
paper. If well made, the fritters will puff very much. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE PECHES. 

Fresh or canned peaches, Brandy or rum, 

Grated lemon-peel, Sugar. 

Peel, stone, and halve the peaches. Sprinkle them with 
grated lemon-peel, sugar, and rum. Cover and set aside in 
this mixture for 2 or 3 hours ; then drain. Make a Batter 
for Fruit Fritters (see receipt), using the liquor from the 
peaches. At the last moment, add to the batter the whites 
of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter should be thick 
enough to coat the fruit thoroughly. Have ready boiling a 
saucepan of deep lard. Dip the peaches, one piece at a time, 
into the batter, and drop into the lard. When golden-brown, 
remove with a skimmer to brown paper in the mouth of the 



478 GOOD-LIVING. 

oven to dry. Sift over powdered sugar. Serve in a pyramid 
on cut paper. 

N. B. — Be sure the lard is boiling before the peaches are 
put in, or the fritters will be spoiled (see General Directions 
for Frying). 

APPLE FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE POMMES. 

Peel, core, and slice fine tart apples. Scald in boiling water 
until about half-cooked. Then drain ; dip in Batter for Fruit 
Fritters (see receipt) ; finish as directed for Peach Fritters. 
Or, dip the fruit in French Batter (see receipt), and finish 
as above. 

STRA WBERRY FRITTERS. 

BEIGNETS DE FRAISES. 

I heaping cup of flour, 2 eggs, 

White wine, rum, or brandy, Grated peel of ^ a lemon, 

I tablespoon of salad oil, Large strawberries. 

Mix the oil, lemon-peel, and flour together. Beat in the 
yolks, and add enough white wine to make this the consist- 
ency of very thick cream. At the last moment, add the 
whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Remove the stems 
from very large strawberries ; drop them into the batter. 
Have boiling in a kettle, lard at least 2 inches deep. When 
you are certain that it is boiling, drop the mixture by the 
spoonful into the lard, allowing I strawberry to each fritter. 
Fry gold color. Remove with a skimmer to brown paper 
in the mouth of the oven, and sift sugar over them. Serve 
in a pyramid on cut paper. 

N.B. — Be sure the lard is boiling (see General Directions 
for Frying). 

JOLLY BOYS. 

I pint of rye-meal, 2 tablespoons of molasses, 

1 cup of wheat-flour, 2 eggs, 

2 large teaspoons of baking-powder, i gill of Indian meal, 

or i teaspoon of cream of tartar i saltspoon of salt, 

and Yi of soda, I teaspoon of ground cinnamon. 

Mix well together the meals, flour, salt, cinnamon, and bak- 
ing-powder (or cream of tartar). Add the eggs well beaten 



OMELETTE SOUFFLEE. 479 

together ; mix. Add molasses and enough cold water to 
make a very stiff batter. (If you use soda, it should now be. 
dissolved in a few spoonfuls of boiling water and beaten into 
the mixture.) Have ready boiling in a pot, lard 3 inches deep. 
When you have tested it and found that it is ready (see Gen- 
eral Directions for Frying), drop in the batter by the small 
spoonful. When golden-brown, remove with a skimmer to 
brown paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry, serve 
very hot with Hard or other sweet Sauce (see receipts). 

FRUIT-FARINA. 

3 tablespoons of farina, Sugar to taste, 

1 pint of ripe berries or sliced apples, I quart of new milk. 

When the milk is boiling in a farina-kettle, sprinkle the 
farina into it. Sweeten and flavor to taste ; boil about 30 
minutes, stirring frequently. Then add the berries or sliced 
apples, and boil about 20 minutes longer, until the fruit 
is cooked tender. Serve very cold with sugar and cream. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLEE. 

4 ounces of powdered sugar, 4 eggs, 

Pinch of salt. Vanilla to taste. 

Put a pudding-dish where it will become, gradually, thor- 
oughly hot, while you prepare the souffle. If a plated cover- 
ing is used to send the dish to table, heat that also. Have 
the oven very hot. 

Break the whites and yolks in separate bowls. Beat the 
yolks until not only creamy, but pale yellow. Then beat into 
the yolks the sifted sugar and about a teaspoonful of vanilla ; 
beat again until smooth. Now add a pinch of salt to the 
white of eggs (it makes them beat more easily), and whip 
them to a perfectly stiff, dry froth. A second person should 
beat the yolks while the whites are being beaten. When 
every thing is ready, beat the yolks into the whites, stirring 
just as little as possible, taking always from the bottom up- 
ward, only enough to mix. Have the heated pudding-dish 
well buttered. Fill not more than f-full of the mixture; 



480 GOOD-LIVING. 

dredge the top with powdered sugar. Set in a quick oven. 
It will require only about 6 minutes, if the oven is right. Do 
not let it stand an instant. It must be waited for, rather 
than wait. To be successful, the details must be strictly 
observed, and the eggs beaten unsparingly. 

GINGER SOUFFLE. 

4 ounces of potato flour, I pint of new milk, 

3 " " powdered sugar, 4 ounces of butter, 

4 " " preserved ginger, 6 eggs, 

Rind of 1 lemon. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; add chopped ginger, grated 
lemon-peel, and flour (or corn-starch). Stir over the fire 
until quite smooth, adding the milk, which should be hot, 
but not boiling. Remove from the fire ; beat in, 1 at a time, 
6 yolks of eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and mix 
carefully with the batter. Fill 1 large, or several small, well- 
buttered and heated souffle-cases ; set in a quick oven ; bake 
about 20 minutes, and serve immediately before it falls. 

ARROW-ROOT SOUFFLE. 

I pint of milk, Sugar to taste, 

3 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoons of arrow-root, 

I white of egg, Juice of 1 lemon, 

Grated rind of y z lemon. 

For meringue : 

2 whites of eggs, 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar. 

Boil the milk. Mix the arrow-root with a little cold water 
and stir into the boiling milk. Remove from the fire and, 
when cool, add the yolks of 3 eggs, lemon-juice and peel, 
sugar to taste, and lastly the beaten white of I egg. Bake 
in a good oven 20 to 30 minutes. Beat the remaining whites 
of eggs until foamy ; add the sugar, and beat until stiff and 
glossy. Spread over the top and return to the oven for 2 or 
3 minutes until slightly browned. Serve immediately. 



SPANISH TOAST. 48 1 



TOT FAIT 



3 tablespoons of flour, Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 

3 " " powdered sugar, 4 eggs, 

2 tablespoons of milk. 

Beat the yolks of eggs to a cream ; beat in sugar. Add 
flour and beat until smooth ; then add juice and rind of 
lemon ; then the milk, and strain. Beat the whites to a stiff 
froth. Beat them into the batter with as few strokes as pos- 
sible. Have ready a well-greased, hot pudding-dish. Fill it 
not more than f-full of the mixture ; dredge with powdered 
sugar, and bake in a quick oven about 15 minutes. Serve 
immediately, or it will fall. 

RICE SOUFFL&. 

SOUFFLE AU RIZ. 

3 ounces of rice-flour, I teaspoon of vanilla, 

6 e gg s » 2 ounces of butter, 

2 gills of cream 5 " " sugar, 
Pinch of salt. 

Bring the cream to a boil in the farina-kettle. Beat to- 
gether butter, sugar, rice-flour, and yolks of eggs until very 
light, then stir them very briskly into the boiling cream. 
Stir without ceasing until it thickens. Remove ; add salt 
and vanilla. Add, lastly, the whites beaten to a very stiff 
froth ; stir them carefully into the mixture and set away to 
cool ; serve cold. Or, turn the mixture into a well-greased, 
hot pudding-dish and bake in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes. 
Serve immediately, or it will fall. 

SPANISH TOAST 

TORRIJAS. 

I pint of milk, 1 egg, 

1 gill of rum or liqueur, Powdered sugar, 

Powdered cinnamon or nutmeg, Lard for frying. 

Beat the egg into the milk. Mix, and sweeten to taste. 
Cut strips of stale bread as thick as your finger, twice as 
31 



482 GOOD-LIVING. 

broad, and 5 inches long. Having removed the crusts, dip 
the bread first into the sweetened milk, then into the rum. 
Drain. Have ready, in a frying-pan, deep boiling lard. 
When certain that it is boiling (see General Directions for 
Frying), lay in the bread. Fry golden-brown. Remove 
with a skimmer to brown paper in the oven. When dry, 
place on a hot dish, 2 and 2 at right angles. Sift powdered 
sugar and cinnamon over them, and serve with Custard 
Sauce (see receipt) flavored with rum. 

QUEEN ELIZABETH'S TOAST. 

PAIN PERDU. 

Proceed exactly as for Torrijas, cutting the slices the same 
thickness, but larger, and omitting the rum. Fry in butter, 
browning both sides. Serve with mixed cinnamon and sugar. 

PANCAKES. 
CREPES. 

1 egg, 4 ounces of sifted flour. 

2^ gills of milk, Pinch of salt. 

Beat the egg, yolk and white together ; add it and the 
salt to the milk, then pour these upon the flour and mix 
perfectly smooth. The batter must be no thicker than 
good cream. Have a small frying-pan very hot ; grease it 
thoroughly with butter or drippings. Pour in batter enough 
to only just cover the bottom. In a minute, perhaps less, if 
the pan is very hot, the cake can be turned. This part is 
done by sleight of hand by very experienced cooks, who toss 
it, catching it again in the pan, bringing the brown side up. 
This is not recommended to beginners ; it will be found 
safer, if slower, to use the cake-turner. The great secret of 
good pancakes is to have them as thin as possible and very 
tender. As they are cooked, pile them on a hot plate. When 
ready to serve, spread each with jelly and roll it up ; or 
sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon mixed, and roll. Dish 
them very neatly and serve very hot. 



CURRANT CHARLOTTE. 483 

APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

CHARLOTTE DE POMMES. 

Butter a deep pudding-dish. Line the bottom and sides 
with buttered bread cut about \ of an inch thick. Fill the 
dish with sliced apples ; sprinkle with a little nutmeg. Mix 
together I gill each of water and molasses. Pour this over 
the apples. Sprinkle with I gill of brown sugar, and cover 
closely with slices of buttered bread. The top must be very 
even and smooth. Cover the top with a tin pie-plate. Bake 
in a very moderate oven for about 2 hours. When done, 
loosen the edges with a knife, and turn it out very carefully 
on a dish. Serve hot with Custard Sauce flavored with rum, 
or with sugar and cream. 

PLE-PLANT CHARLOTTE. 

1 pound of pie-plant, 1 pound of soft sugar, 

Bread-crumbs, or slices of bread, Butter. 

Peel the pie-plant and cut it into pieces 1 inch long. But- 
ter a pudding-dish. Cover the bottom with a layer of 
crumbs ; put over this a layer of pie-plant covered thickly 
with sugar ; then another layer of crumbs, fruit, and sugar ; 
and so on until the dish is filled, dotting the last layer of 
crumbs with bits of butter. The bread may be cut in thin 
slices and buttered ; but it is recommended that the crumbs 
be used. Bake very slowly for 1 hour and 30 minutes. 
Serve cold with cream. 

CHERRY CHARLOTTE. 

CHARLOTTE DE CERISES. 

Proceed as above, substituting cherries in the same pro- 
portions. 

CURRANT CHARLOTTE. 

CHARLOTTE DE GROSEILLES. 

Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting currants 
in the same proportions. 



484 GOOD-LIVING. 

RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE. 

CHARLOTTE DE FRAMBOISES. 
Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting raspberries. 

GOOSEBERRY CHARLOTTE. 

Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting goose- 
berries. 

STRAWBERRY SARACEN. 

Strawberries, Sugar, 

Slices of thin toast, Butter. 

Butter the toast generously, and line with it the bottom 
and sides of a china dish which can be set in the oven. The 
pieces of toast, made of stale bread and cut quite thin, should 
be very well dried in toasting ; they should be trimmed to 
fit into the dish neatly. Fill the remaining space with 
stemmed strawberries, packed closely. Sift plenty of sugar 
over and among the berries, and set in a moderate oven for 
30 minutes, or until the fruit has melted a good deal, and 
settled. It will be found that they melt away so much that 
the dish must not only be packed but heaped, or it will not 
look well when done. Serve very cold with thick cream. 
Delicious. 

RASPBERRY SARACEN. 
Proceed as above, substituting raspberries. 

CHERRY TOAST. 

CROUTE AUX CERISES. 

Make thin slices of very dry toast ; butter generously. 
Lay the toast on a dish. Put in a saucepan I quart of 
stemmed cherries with f to 1 pound of sugar (according to 
tartness) and 1 gill of water. Cover and stew until the ber- 
ries are very tender. Throw the hot syrup and fruit over 
the toast and set away. Serve very cold with cream. Simple, 
but excellent. 



FRIAR'S OMELET. 485 

RASPBERRY TOAST. 

CROUTE AUX FRAMBOISES. 

Proceed as for Cherry Toast, substituting raspberries. Or 
mix equal quantities of raspberries and currants, using a 
little more sugar. 

APRICOT TOAST. 

CROUTE AUX ABRICOTS. 

Apricots, Sugar, 

Butter, Bread. 

Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Place each 
half, with the inner side uppermost, upon a thin square of 
bread without crust. Lay them in a fire-proof dish. Put a 
piece of butter on each ; sprinkle with sugar. Bake 30 
minutes in a moderate oven. When done, arrange neatly 
on a glass dish with a piece of the bread under each piece 
of apricot. Pour over the syrup made in cooking, and 
serve cold, with rich cream. 

Peaches, pears, and plums may be treated in the same 
way. 

FRIARS OMELET. 

7 large apples, 1 tablespoon of butter (level), 

1 cup of sugar, 1 teaspoon " " " 

1 " " bread-crumbs, 3 eggs, 

Lemon-juice. 

Peel, quarter, and stew the apples as for sauce, with only 
just enough boiling water to prevent scorching. When 
cooked and still hot, press through a colander ; stir in the 
teaspoonful of butter and the sugar. Set aside to cool. 
Melt the tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan ; stir the 
bread-crumbs in the butter until it is absorbed and the 
crumbs are a golden-brown. Butter a plain pudding-mould ; 
sprinkle the bottom and sides with as many of the bread- 
crumbs as will adhere. Beat the eggs together until light. 



486 GOOD-LIVING. 

Stir them into the apple-sauce ; add lemon-juice to taste ; 
mix well and fill the mould with this, taking care not to rub 
off the crumbs. Sprinkle the top thickly with bread-crumbs. 
Bake for 20 to 30 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. 
Loosen the edges with a knife and turn out carefully on a 
flat dish. Serve hot with Rum or Brandy Sauce in a sauce- 
boat. 

N. B. — The mould should be closely packed with the 
mixture. 

APPLE SPONGE. 

MOUSSE AUX POMMES. 

]4. box of Cox's gelatine, 2 gills of boiling water, 

1 lemon, grated rind, I pound of apples, 

2 lemons, juice, 3 eggs, 

I pound of sugar. 

Boil together sugar and water until clear. Skim. Peel, 
core, and slice the apples. Put them into the syrup and 
stew until tender. Meanwhile cover, the gelatine with cold 
water and let it soak 1 to 2 hours. When the apples are 
done, stir the gelatine into them until dissolved ; remove 
from the fire and press all through a sieve. Stir in the rind 
and juice of the lemon. Set away until cold and beginning 
to stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; stir 
the apples over ice until perfectly smooth, then stir in the 
whites of eggs and continue to stir until thick. Rinse out 
a mould with cold water. Fill with the mixture and set 
away to harden. Prepare a Custard Sauce (see receipt) 
flavored with rum or vanilla. Turn out the sponge ; pour 
the custard around it, and serve very cold. 

PEACH SPONGE. 

MOUSSE AUX PECHES. 

Proceed exactly as for Apple Sponge, substituting peaches 
in the same proportions. 



ORANGE SALAD. 487 

BAKED QUINCES. 

Core ripe apple-quinces of uniform size. Place them in a 
baking-pan. Put the cores in the pan. Fill the spaces left 
by the cores with sugar, adding to the pan about I gill (for 
8 quinces). Fill the pan with boiling water to £ the height 
of the quinces. Cover with an inverted pan. Set in the 
oven for 30 minutes. Then uncover and continue to bake 
until the quinces are tender, which will require perhaps an 
hour or more. The oven should be moderately hot. When 
tender, dish the quinces. Set the pan over the fire, and boil 
briskly for a few minutes, adding more sugar, if not sweet 
enough ; strain the syrup over the fruit, and set away. Serve 
cold with cream. Recommended. 

FRIED BANANAS. 

BANANES FRITES. 

Having peeled the bananas, cut them in two, lengthwise. 
Have ready hot butter in the frying-pan. Lay in the 
bananas. Sift with powdered sugar. Fry brown one side ; 
then turn ; sift again with sugar ; when the second side is 
browned, dish neatly and serve hot. 

ORANGE SALAD. 

SALADE D'ORANGES. 

4 oranges, I gill of Jamaica rum, 

Powdered sugar. 

Select very juicy oranges (Indian Rivers are best). Peel 
and slice in thin slices. Sift sugar over each layer in a glass 
dish ; pour the rum over all. Cover, and set away for 2 hours 
in a cool place. Baste from time to time. Or, the oranges 
may be washed and sliced without peeling ; then dressed as 
above. 



488 GOOD-LIVING. 

APPLE AND ORANGE SALAD. 

3 oranges, 2 apples, 

I gill of rum Powdered sugar. 

Peel and shave the apples in very thin slices ; mix with 
the oranges, and finish as directed for Orange Salad. 

PLE-PLANT OR RHUBARB. 

Draw off the outer skin and fibres, beginning at the top. 
Use a silver knife. Cut the pie-plant in 2-inch lengths. Lay 
it in a fire-proof bake-dish ; sprinkle soft sugar over it, allow- 
ing about pound to pound. Heap the dish with fruit, as it 
will shrink a great deal. Set the dish in a moderately-quick 
oven, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until perfectly 
tender, and surrounded by a rich syrup. If the oven is too 
hot, cover with a tin pie-plate, as the pie-plant must not 
brown. It may be served, when cold, in a glass dish, plain ; 
or the dish may be lined with macaroons and filled with the 
pie-plant. This mode of preparing the pie-plant, when once 
tested, will prove so satisfactory that it is safe to say that it 
will be adopted in preference to stewing. Should the old 
way be preferred, however, scald the pie-plant first and throw 
the water off before adding the sugar. This does away with 
a certain amount of the extreme acidity. 

TO PREPARE STRA WBERRLES FOR TABLE. 

Do not wash them unless they absolutely require it. If, 
however, you are obliged to, do not stem them until after 
washing and draining thoroughly. Do not sugar them until 
they are served at table. If washing is necessary, fill a large 
bowl with cold water ; put the strawberries in a colander, and 
dip the colander 2 or 3 times into the bowl. Shake out well, 
and stand colander and berries near the ice until wanted. 
Then stem them. In France, handsome extra-large berries 
are always served in a pyramid, with the stems on. They 
are dipped in sugar, one by one, and eaten from the stem. 



TO PREPARE PINE-APPLE FOR TABLE. 489 

TO PREPARE PINE-APPLE FOR TABLE. 

Be sure the pine is perfectly ripe. Pare it from the top 
down. Remove the eyes. Hold the top in the left hand, 
and with a fork held in the right, scoop the fruit off from the 
core in pieces about 2 inches square. Place these in a glass 
dish ; sift with powdered sugar, and set away in the ice-box 
until required. Never cut a pine-apple with a knife in slices 
through the core ; it is much less digestible, and its flavor is 
injured by contact with the knife. When properly prepared, 
core and top-leaves should remain in one piece. 




ICE-CREAMS, WATER-ICES, ETC. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING ICE-CREAMS, WATER- 
ICES, ETC. 

The essentials for making good plain (Philadelphia) cream 
are: the best cream, ripe, juicy fruit, and granulated sugar. 
Avoid, for this class of ice-cream, all thickening, whether 
corn-starch, arrow-root, or gelatine. These latter are neces- 
sary in many of the fancy creams, but not for the above. It 
is best to scald, not boil the cream, the sugar being dissolved 
in it while hot. The flavoring, whether fruit or other, will be 
stronger if added after the first freezing. Avoid freezing the 
cream raw, as it is never as smooth, but acquires a harshness 
and a snowy taste ; it increases much more in bulk. 

Procure the best of freezers, such as the " White Moun- 
tain " ; see that all is in perfect readiness before beginning 
the operation. For a 4-quart freezer, allow about 10 pounds 
of ice and 2 quarts of rock-salt. The ice must be pounded 
finer at the commencement of the operation than later on. 
Set in the tin cylinder ; fill %- or at most f-full of the mixture, 
allowing always ample room for it to swell as it freezes. Cover. 
Adjust the crank. Turn to see that all is right. Now put in 
the ice 3 inches deep, then salt 1 inch deep, and so on, in lay- 
ers, to the top of the can. Now turn steadily and not too 
rapidly, until the crank works very hard. This should take 
about 25 minutes. It is not well to freeze it too fast. Now 
unscrew the crank ; wipe the lid ; remove it and the dasher. 
With a long flat piece of wood (spatula), scrape down the in- 
ner sides, and beat vigorously for 10 minutes. This makes 
490 



V AXILLA ICE-CREAM tVlTIf EGGS. 49 1 

the cream smooth. Now replace the cover and plug up the 
dasher-hole. In all this be very careful that no salt creeps 
in. Drain off the water from the pail and re-pack with salt 
and coarser ice. Cover with a thick piece of carpet and set 
away for 2 hours. This last makes the cream mellow. Or, 
the cream at this stage may be packed in a mould ; the 
mould placed in an ordinary pail, which fill with layers of salt 
and ice ; cover and set away as above. 

N. B. — Be careful that the mould-lid is closely fitted, or 
the salt may penetrate. 

PHILADELPHIA VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 

1 quart of cream, J^ pound of sugar, 

>, 1 vanilla bean or 2 tablespoons of extract of vanilla. 

Put the sugar, 1 pint of cream, and the bean, split in \, into 
a farina-kettle ; boil and stir constantly for 10 minutes. Re- 
move from the fire ; strain ; set away to cool. When cold, 
add extract of vanilla (if you use this), and the remaining 
cream, and freeze. Finish according to General Directions 
for Freezing. 

VANILLA ICE-CREAM WITH EGGS. 

CREME GLACEE A LA VANILLE. 

8 eggs, yolks only, 2 tablespoons of cold water, 

1^2 pints of rich milk, ^ pound of sugar, 

I tablespoon of vanilla-bean powder, X box of gelatine, 

1 pint of cream, whipped. 

Cream together the yolks of the eggs and sugar very light. 
Put the milk in a farina-kettle on the fire with the vanilla. 
Bring it to a boil ; remove it and stir by degrees into the 
eggs and sugar, stirring briskly. Set the farina-kettle with 
the custard over hot water on the fire, and stir constantly 
until it thickens slightly. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle. 
Remove from the fire, and stir in the gelatine, which has 
soaked for 2 hours in the cold water. Stir. The heat of the 



492 GOOD-LIVING. 

custard should be sufficient to melt it ; if not, stir it over the 
fire until dissolved. Strain the custard into a bowl, and set 
aside to cool thoroughly before freezing. When cold, have 
ready freezer, salt, and ice. Pour the custard into the tin 
cylinder ; pack with ice and salt and turn steadily (see Gen- 
eral Directions for Ice-Creams). When the crank will scarcely 
turn any more, wipe off the top of the cylinder very care- 
fully, scrape down the cream from the sides, and pour in the 
Whipped Cream (which has been first chilled and then whipped 
over a pan of ice, see receipt). Close the cylinder and freezer, 
being very careful that no salt gets inside. Turn again un- 
til too stiff, then carefully remove the dasher ; scrape all the 
ice-cream down again ; smooth it over ; re-cover ; put a stop- 
per in the hole in the tin cover ; pack with more salt and 
ice ; cover with carpet and set away for 2 or 3 hours ; or 
pack in a mould in the same way, filling the mould very 
full, and packing it in a pail of ice and salt. 



VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE A LA VANILLE. 

2 quarts of milk, 2 tablespoons of flour, 

3 cups of sugar, Pinch of salt, 

3 yolks of eggs, % 6 whites of eggs, 

i quart of cream, 3 teaspoons of vanilla 

I teaspoon lemon. 

Boil the milk and thicken with the flour, which has been 
rubbed smooth with a little cold milk. When smooth, add 
the sugar and salt. Remove from the fire, and stir carefully 
into the 3 beaten yolks of eggs. Return for 1 minute or 2 
to the fire, stirring constantly, but do not boil. Set away to 
cool. Meanwhile, have the cream standing on ice. Whip it 
and the 6 whites of eggs separately, to a thick froth. When 
the first mixture is cold, add the flavoring, and, just at the 
moment of freezing, add the beaten cream and eggs (see 
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 



PHILADELPHIA COFFEE ICE-CREAM. 493 

CHOCOLA TE ICE-CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE AU CHOCOLAT. 

3 pints of whole new milk, 6 eggs, 

I pint of cream, whipped, 1 pound of sugar, 

6 ounces Maillard's or Huyler's chocolate. 

Put the milk into the farina-kettle and bring it to a boil. 
Grate the chocolate into a bowl. Add to it the eggs and 
sugar, and beat until well mixed. When the milk boils, 
stir it gently into the eggs, etc., stirring rapidly. When the 
chocolate is well melted, turn all back into the farina-kettle ; 
place on the fire over hot water, and stir until the custard 
thickens a little, but do not let it boil. Strain the custard 
into a bowl and set away to cool. When cold, turn it into the 
freezer ; pack as directed in General Directions for Freezing 
Ice-Creams, and when quite stiff, carefully open the freezer 
and put in the cream, which has been whipped with a Dover 
egg-beater in a bowl over a pan of cracked ice. Shut the 
freezer ; turn again until very stiff ; then pack the ice-cream 
in a mould, filling it very closely ; put the cover on tightly ; 
cover the crack with a strip of muslin dipped in butter, to 
keep out the salt ; pack in a pail with salt and ice ; cover 
with a piece of carpet, and set in a cool place for 1 or 2 
hours. This ice-cream is very reliable, and delicious. 

PHILADELPHIA COFFEE ICE-CREAM. 

1 quart of cream, ^ pound of powdered sugar, 

4 ounces of Mocha or 3 of Java coffee. 

Grind the coffee coarsely ; put it with 1 pint of cream in 
the farina-kettle on the fire, and let it stand without quite 
coming to a boil for 10 minutes ; then strain and press it in 
a fine sieve until all the strength is pressed out. Add the 
sugar and stir until dissolved. When perfectly cold, add the 
remaining pint of cream, and freeze (see General Directions 
for Freezing Ice-Creams). When frozen, pack and stand 2 
hours as directed. 



494 GOOD-LIVING. 

PARFAIT A U CAFE. 

I quart of thick cream, I gill of strong black coffee, 

^ cup of powdered sugar. 

Mix the coffee, sugar, and cream ; whip to a froth. As 
the froth appears, skim it off to a colander to drain. What- 
ever drains off may be whipped again. Use a Dover egg- 
beater, and stand the cream in a pan of cracked ice while 
you beat it. This will greatly facilitate the whipping. 
When all is done, turn it into an ice-cream mould ; press 
the lid down tightly ; bind the joint with a strip of muslin 
dipped in melted butter (to keep out the salt) ; pack in salt 
and ice, the layers of ice being 3 inches, and salt 1 inch, deep. 
Cover with a piece of carpet and set in a cold place for 3 
hours or more. Turn out and serve. Renew the ice if 
necessary. 

BISQUE ICE-CREAM. 

1 quart of rich cream, ^ pound of macaroons, 

2 lady-fingers, ^ " " sugar, 

4 kisses, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 

1 teaspoon of caramel, 5 tablespoons of sherry. 

Rub the stale macaroons, kisses, and lady-fingers through 
a colander. Put I pint of cream in the farina-kettle ; when 
hot, add to it the sugar. Stir until dissolved. Remove from 
the fire ; when cool, add the remainder of the cream, and 
strain into the freezer. When frozen nearly stiff, add the 
vanilla, caramel, pounded cakes, and 5 tablespoonfuls of 
sherry. Beat until perfectly smooth (see General Directions 
for Freezing Ice-Creams). Re-pack as directed, and let stand 
2 hours or more in a cold place before using. 

BROWN-BREAD ICE-CREAM. 

3 slices of Boston brown bread, 1 quart of cream, 

}i pound of sugar. 

Toast the bread in a cool oven, then roll and sift it 
through a fine sieve. Put 1 pint of cream in the farina- 



FROZEN PINE-APPLE CREAM. 49$ 

kettle on the fire ; add the sugar and stir until dissolved. 
Add the remaining cream and set away to cool. When 
cold, freeze according to General Directions for Freezing 
Ice-Creams. When frozen, beat in the brown bread ; remove 
the dasher, and re-pack as directed. Set away 2 hours. Bis- 
cuit Ice-Cream is made in the same manner, substituting 6 
ounces of sponge cake for the brown bread. 



CARAMEL ICE-CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE AU CARAMEL. 

X]4. pounds of brown sugar, 3 quarts of cream, 

I pint of boiling milk. 

Melt the sugar in the frying-pan until liquid, stirring all 
the time. Do not let it scorch or get too dark. Pour the 
caramel into the boiling milk by degrees, mixing well. 
When cold, strain it into the cream and freeze (see General 
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). One pint of the cream 
may be whipped and added as directed. 

FROZEN PEACHES AND CREAM. 

PECHES GLACEES A LA CREME. 

Select ripe peaches ; peel and mash to a pulp. Make them 
very sweet, perhaps not quite as much as pound for pound of 
fruit and sugar, but they must be very sweet, as freezing 
destroys much of the effect of the sugar. Allow 1 pint of 
cream to each pint of peach-pulp and sugar, and freeze (see 
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 

FROZEN PINE-APPLE CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE A L' ANANAS. 

Select a ripe pine-apple ; pare ; remove the eyes ; grate and 
proceed exactly as for Frozen Peaches and Cream. 



496 GOOD-LIVING. 

FROZEN STRA WBERRIES AND CREAM. 

FRAISES GLACEES A LA CREME. 

Mash the strawberries, stemmed. Allow 1 pound of sugar 
to 1 quart of fruit. When thoroughly mashed, add I quart 
of cream and freeze (see General Directions for Freezing 
Ice-Creams). 

PINE-APPLE MOUSSE. 
MOUSSE A l'ananas. 

1 pine-apple, 3 level teaspoons of vanilla, 

Powdered sugar, 3 tablespoons of Jamaica rum, 

3 times the bulk of fruit in whipped cream. 

Peel the pine-apple. Cut a few slices of it ; lay them in a 
bowl, sprinkled with powdered sugar and a very little rum. 
Cover and set away until wanted. Grate the rest of the 
pine-apple into an earthenware bowl. Add to it the vanilla 
and rum and sufficient sugar to make it very sweet. Set the 
bowl over ice and stir until very cold. Meanwhile have 
ready beaten over a pan of ice the cream, which should then 
equal 3 times the bulk of fruit. Fill an ice-cream mould 
with the mixture. Fit the cover on closely ; cover the joint 
with a strip of muslin dipped in melted butter, to keep out 
the salt ; pack in salt and ice ; the layers of ice being 3 inches, 
and salt 1 inch, deep. Cover with a carpet and set away in a 
cold place for three hours at least. When ready to serve, 
turn out the cream ; place around it the slices of pine-apple 
and its syrup, and serve. 

STRAWBERRY ICE-CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE A LA FRAISE. 

I quart of cream, 1% quarts berries, stemmed, 

1 pound of sugar. 

Put I pint of cream and \ a pound of sugar in the farina- 
kettle on the fire. When the sugar is dissolved, set aside to 



FROZEN APPLE PUDDING. 497 

cool. Put the remaining £ of the sugar over the berries ; 
mash and set aside for I hour. Then press through a sieve. 
Add the remaining cream to the scalded cream, and freeze 
(see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). When 
frozen, stir in the fruit-juice ; beat until smooth, and finish 
according to same directions. 

PINE-APPLE ICE-CREAM. 

CREME GLACEE A L'ANANAS. 

i quart of cream, i large pine-apple, 

I pound of sugar, i lemon, juice only. 

Put I pint of the cream with £ of the sugar in the farina- 
kettle on the fire ; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove 
from the fire and set aside to cool. Pare the pine-apple, re- 
moving the eyes and core. Grate the rest ; mix it with the 
remaining sugar ; stir until it dissolves. Add the remaining 
pint of cream to the scalded cream, and freeze (see General 
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). Add the lemon-juice to 
the pine-apple, and when the cream is frozen, stir the fruit 
into it. Beat thoroughly and finish as directed. If canned 
pine-apple is used, add the lemon-juice to it ; add all to the 
cream and freeze. 

FROZEN APPLE PUDDING. 

24 apples, pared, cored, and quartered, % pint of preserved or candied cherries, 
^ pint of apricot jam, % pound of sugar, 

^ pound raisins, stoned, 1 orange rind, grated, 

2 ounces of almonds, blanched, 1 ounce of citron, sliced, 

1 pint of cream, whipped, 1 gill of curacoa, 

1 gill of maraschino. 

Stew the apples until tender. Mix with them the orange- 
rind and apricot (or peach) jam, also the sugar. Mash them 
through a coarse sieve ; freeze. Simmer the raisins for a few 
minutes in a little sugar and water. Drain, and add these, 
with the almonds shredded, the cherries, and citron, to the 
apples, when the latter are partly frozen. Add the curagoa 
32 



490 GOOD-LIVING. 

and maraschino when the mixture is quite frozen. When the 
crank turns very hard, add the whipped cream. Turn a little 
longer, then fill a mould as described, and finish according to 
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams. When ready, 
turn out of the mould, and serve with a Sauce of Whipped 
Cream. 

PLUM-PUDDING GLACE. 

1 tablespoon of arrow-root, I quart of milk, 

2 ounces stoned raisins, % pound brandied peaches, 
2 " currants, well washed, I quart cream, 

2 " citron, chopped, yi pound chocolate, 

2 cups sugar, 2 eggs, 

3 whites of eggs, or whipped cream for sauce. 

Boil the milk ; dissolve the chocolate in it. Rub the arrow- 
root up with a little cold milk or water, and stir in. When 
thickened, stir in very carefully the 2 eggs mixed smooth 
with a few drops of cold water. Stir and set aside to get 
cold. Add the fruit and flavorings. Whip the cream and 
add the sugar to it. At the moment of freezing, add this to 
the chocolate. Pack in a mould (see General Directions for 
Freezing Ice-Creams). Serve with Whipped Cream Sauce 
(see receipt). 

N. B. — In putting the frozen pudding into the mould, be 
very cautious not to let a particle of salt get into it. Cover 
it tightly and set in a bucket with ice and salt until used. 

NESSELRODE PUDDING. 

Sponge-cake, 2 even tablespoons of gelatine, 

Candied, brandied, and preserved I quart chocolate custard (see Boiled 

fruits, raisins, marrons glaces, Custard). 

Soak the gelatine in a little cold milk for I hour ; remove 
the crust and cut the cake (a baker's sponge-cake) in slices 
about \ an inch thick. Trim them evenly. Soak them in a 
little sherry wine. Fit a layer of this in the bottom of a tin 
ice-cream mould (be sure the cover fits well). On this cake 
lay a layer of mixed fruits, using preserved, candied, and 



ALASKA OR ROASTED ICE-CREAM. 499 

brandied fruits of any kind, raisins, and marrons glacis. Put 
the fruit in bit by bit, carefully. Cover this with cake, leav- 
ing a space at the sides, between the cake and the mould ; 
repeat this until the mould is nearly filled. Have ready the 
custard prepared according to the receipt given for Boiled 
Custard. When it is boiling hot, dissolve the gelatine in it ; 
strain and set aside to cool. When cold, pour the custard 
into the mould very carefully ; fill the mould not quite full ; 
fit the cover closely ; seal the crack with a strip of muslin 
dipped in melted butter. Set in a tub of ice and salt ; the 
ice being 3 inches, the salt 1 inch, deep. Cover with a carpet 
and set in a cold place about 6 hours. See that the ice is 
kept over it ; renew if necessary. When ready, turn out of 
the mould and serve with Whipped Cream Sauce. 

FROZEN FRUIT PUDDING. 

I pint of rich milk, 1 pint of cut peaches or ripe berries, 

1 " " rich cream, whipped, 3 eggs, yolks only, 
1% cups of sugar. 

Beat the eggs well together with the sugar. Bring the 
milk to a boil ; stir it carefully into the eggs and sugar. 
Return it to the kettle and stir over the fire until it thickens 
slightly ; do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Set the custard 
aside to cool, then freeze as directed (see General Directions 
for Freezing Ice-Creams). When partly frozen, add the 
whipped cream. Turn a little longer, then stir in the fruit. 
Pack in a mould. 

ALASKA, OR ROASTED ICE-CREAM. 

Use the lower half of a round sponge-cake as the base ; 
upon this place a small, very solidly-frozen form of ice-cream. 
Cover this thickly with a very stiff meringue of sugar and 
white of egg. Sprinkle with sugar. Heat a salamander, or, 
the kitchen shovel, red-hot, and hold it sufficiently close to 
the meringue to brown it on all sides. This gives the ap- 
pearance of having been roasted, and at the same time the 



500 GOOD-LIVING. 

ice-cream remains perfectly frozen. The uninitiated are 
quite convinced that it is roasted, and are much amazed 
at this culinary curiosity. 

ICED PUDDING. 

4 e gg s > yolks only, 4 tablespoons of sugar, 

I pint of boiled milk, y 2 pint of cream, whipped, 

1 gill of maraschino, Canned or dried fruit. 

Make a Boiled Custard (see receipt) with the eggs, milk, 
and sugar ; flavor with vanilla to taste. Freeze the custard 
in the usual way (see General Directions for Freezing Ice- 
Creams). When nearly frozen, add either 8 ounces of can- 
died fruit, mixed in equal parts, or I ounce candied citron, 
sliced, 2 ounces of currants washed and dried, 2 ounces of 
raisins, stoned and chopped. Cover again and freeze for a few 
minutes longer, then add the cream. The maraschino is a 
good addition, but not indispensable. It should be put in 
with the fruit. Pack in a mould and finish as by General 
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams. Serve with a Sauce of 
Whipped Cream. 

LEMON WATER-ICE. 

GLACE AU CITRON. 

4 large juicy lemons, I orange, 

i% pounds of sugar, I quart of water. 

Peel the thin yellow rind from 3 lemons and the orange ; 
put it, the sugar and the water in a saucepan ; bring to a 
boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Set away to cool. Squeeze the 
juice from the lemons and orange ; strain it into the syrup 
when cold. Strain the whole into the freezer, and freeze. 
Turn until stiff ; remove the dasher ; scrape down the water- 
ice. Cover it securely. Drain off the water ; re-pack with 
salt and ice in layers of 3 inches ice and 1 inch salt. Cover 
with carpet. Set away in a cool place for 2 hours. Or 
pack in a mould, following the same directions. A little 
while before re-packing, may be added the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten to a very stiff froth ; freeze again, then re-pack. 



FROZEN STRAWBERRIES. 501 

RASPBERRY ICE. 

GLACE A LA FRAMBOISE. 

1 quart of red raspberries, 1 quart of water, 
Juice of 2 lemons, 1 pound of sugar. 

Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the berries ; stir and set 
aside for 1 hour. Press through a sieve ; add the water. 
Freeze as directed for Lemon Water-Ice. The beaten whites 
of 2 eggs may be added. See above. 

STRAWBERRY ICE. 

GLACE A LA FRAISE. 

1 quart of berries, 1 pound of sugar, 

1 " " water, Juice of 2 lemons. 

Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the berries ; mash-and 
set aside 1 hour. Strain through a sieve ; add the water. 
Freeze as directed for Lemon Water-ice. The beaten whites 
of 2 eggs may be added. See above. 

FROZEN PEACHES. 

PECHES GLACEES. 

2 pounds of peaches, 1 quart of water, 

6 peach kernels, 1% pounds of sugar. 

Peel and mash the peaches, removing the stones. Pound 
the kernels smooth. Add them to the sugar. Boil the sugar 
and water together for 5 minutes. Strain and set away to 
cool. When cold, add to it the mashed peaches. Put into 
the freezer and freeze as directed for Lemon Water-ice. 

FROZEN STRAWBERRIES. 

FRAISES GLACEES. 

I quart of strawberries, I pound of sugar, 

Juice of 2 lemons, 1 quart of water. 

Put the sugar and lemon-juice with the berries. Let 
stand 1 hour. Mash the berries ; add the water ; stir. 
When the sugar is quite melted, turn into the freezer and 
freeze according to directions for Lemon Water-ice. 



502 GOOD-LIVING. 

ORANGE SHERBET. 

GLACE A L'ORANGE. 

4 oranges, grated rinds, 2 whites of eggs, 

I pint of orange-juice, I pint and i gill of water, 

I pound of sugar. 

Grate the rinds of the oranges, and soak for 10 minutes in 
boiling water. Strain I pint of this water upon the sugar ; 
when this is dissolved, add I pint of orange-juice. When 
cold, freeze. When nearly frozen, add the whites of eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. Close the can carefully and freeze 
again (see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 

PINE- APPLE SHERBET. 

GLACE A L'ANANAS. 

Peel a ripe pine-apple ; take out the eyes and grate to 
a smooth, even pulp. To i quart of this pulp, allow \\ 
pounds of sugar and I pint of water. Dissolve the sugar in 
the boiling water ; when cool, add it to the fruit. Freeze. 
When nearly frozen, add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. Close the top carefully. Freeze again (see General 
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 

CITRON ICE. 

2 quarts of strong, rich lemonade, Scant % pint of sliced citron, 

3 whites of eggs. 

Steep some of the lemon-rind in the lemonade for I hour. 
Strain. Slice the citron thin and small ; throw it into the 
strained lemonade ; let it stand overnight, or, if time will 
not permit, boil it i minute ; set away to cool. Freeze. 
When the crank turns very hard, open the freezer and add 
the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; close the freezer 
carefully (see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 
Preserved watermelon-rind or citron may be substituted for 
the dried citron. 



FROZEN PUNCH, 503 

CURRANT SHERBET. 

GLACE A LA GROSEILLE. 
1 pint of currant-juice, 1 pound of sugar. 

I " " water, 3 whites of eggs. 

Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water. When cool, add 
it to the strained juice. Freeze. When the crank turns 
very hard, open the freezer ; add the whites beaten to a 
stiff froth. Close the freezer carefully ; turn again until 
very stiff, and finish as directed (see General Directions 
for Freezing Ice-Creams). 

STRAWBERRY SHERBET 

GLACE A LA FRAISE. 
Juice of 2 quarts of berries mashed 2 pounds of sugar, dissolved in the 

and strained, water, 

Equal quantity of water, 4 whites of eggs. 

Mash the berries ; cover with the sugar ; let stand 1 hour 
or more ; then press out the juice, add the water, and freeze 
as above ; add the whites of eggs lastly. Close carefully ; 
freeze again (see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

PONCHE A LA ROMAINE. 

1 quart of lemon water-ice, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 

^ pint of Jamaica rum, ]4. pint of champagne, 

1 gill of maraschino. 

Freeze the Lemon Water-ice (see receipt) very hard ; then 
add slowly the liquors. Beat well. Pack and cover the 
freezer ; carefully cover and stand it away for 4 or 5 hours. 
It will not freeze perfectly firm on account of the alcohol. 
Serve in glasses. 

FROZEN PUNCH. 

SORBET. 
6 lemons, 1 gill rum, 

2 oranges, % pint champagne, 

1 pound powdered sugar, ^ gill brandy, 

1 pint water. 

Peel the oranges and lemons, and squeeze out all the juice. 
Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water, and, when cold, add 



5Q4 



GOOD LIVING. 



it to the juice. Freeze very hard, according to receipt for 
Lemon Water-Ice. When firm, add the liquors. Re-cover 
carefully and turn long enough to mix well ; then remove 
dasher ; re-cover ; pack with salt and ice and set away for 2 
hours. It should be covered with a piece of carpet. The 
above will never become perfectly hard after the liquors are 
added, on account of the alcohol. 




PRESERVES AND CANDIES. 

NOTE. — Never make preserves on a damp day. Never 
use fruit picked in wet weather. 



SYRUP FOR PRESERVES. 

2 pounds best white sugar, I pint of fresh water, 

I white of egg. 

Put all into a white, china-lined kettle. Stir well. Set on 
the fire and bring to a boil. Watch that the syrup does not 
rise too rapidly, and let it boil five minutes. It must bubble, 
froth, and rise before it will clear. Draw it on one side of 
the range and let it settle ; then skim it very thoroughly: 
If the syrup at any time rises too quickly and threatens to 
boil over, if you cannot remove the kettle easily, throw in a 
dash of cold water and it will be checked immediately ; then 
you can safely move it to one side. The kettle, on ac- 
count of this, should be much larger than seems necessary. 

PEACHES PRESERVED IN SYRUP. 

Prepare the syrup as directed above. Peel ; cut in half ; 
remove the stones ; when the syrup has been skimmed 
and brought again to a boil, drop in a few peaches at a time ; 
boil until thoroughly tender, 15 to 20 minutes. They 
should be tender enough to pierce with a whisp. Drain out 
the fruit and put it in the jars. When all are done, boil down 
the syrup rapidly for 20 minutes or more, but be careful that 
it does not scorch. If any scum rises, remove it. Fill the 
jars with the boiling syrup, having previously poured off the 
505 



506 GOOD-LIVING. 

thin syrup from them. Set aside to cool. When cold, 
screw the tops on. If in open jars, cover first with brandied 
papers, then with white paper fastened on with flour-paste. 
Clean, label, and set away. 

Pears may be preserved according to above receipt. 



BRANDIED PEACHES. 

Select for this purpose white peaches that are not too ripe : 
Morris Whites, Smocks, or White Heath, are considered 
best for the purpose. Peel very carefully, so that the mark 
of the knife shall not be visible. If well done, this saves, too, 
the troublesome process of skinning with lye. Melt in a 
porcelain-lined kettle 2 pounds of granulated sugar in 3 
quarts of water. Weigh the fruit ; then put in the peaches, 
a few at a time, to scald. When they are boiled tender, so 
that they can be pierced with a broom-whisp, skim them out 
and lay on a platter. When all are scalded (taking care not 
to cook them too much), make a syrup as follows : Take 
one half the weight of peaches in sugar. Allow 1 gill of 
the first syrup to every pound of fresh sugar. Put it into 
the kettle and bring it slowly to a boil. It will take some 
time for the sugar to dissolve. It must boil up rapidly once, 
then be stood aside to settle. Skim then, not before. 
Then bring to a boil again. Put the peaches into this 
strong syrup, a few at a time. Scald for about 5 minutes ; 
remove to jars. When all the peaches are cooked, boil 
down the syrup for 10 to 20 minutes, until very thick, 
taking care not to scorch it. Skim again. Drain the syrup 
from the jars. Fill the jars \ with the rich syrup. Fill to 
the top with the best 4th-proof French brandy. Cover and 
set away. Much care and taste must be used in handling 
and packing the fruit in jars. If liked, crack the stones and 
put 6 peeled kernels to each pint-jar. 

N. B. — To peel the kernels, throw boiling water over, and 
stand 5 or 10 minutes, when the skins will come off easily. 



PRESERVED WATERMELON-RIND. $0? 

PRESER VED WA TERM EL ON-RIND. 

8 pounds of rind, when cut up, 6 pounds of sugar, 

6 gills of water, including that in 3 or four ounces of ginger, according 
which the lemons are boiled, to taste for same, 

5 lemons (large). 

Peel the rind, removing also the pink part of a watermelon 
that is not fully ripe. Cut into pieces about 1 inch square. 
Cover with cold water, adding a little salt. Next day throw 
off that water. Cover with fresh water, adding this time a 
pinch of alum. Next morning rinse it well until all the 
alum is thoroughly washed off, and let it stand covered with 
cold water until you are ready to use it. Slice the lemons ; 
remove the seeds ; cover with boiling water, and boil until 
thoroughly tender, which will take fully 30 minutes. Scrape 
and slice very thin 3 ounces of green ginger. Put it down 
to boil in a saucepan, and boil until tender, which may per- 
haps take 2 hours (or less), according to the toughness of 
the root. But it must be tender before using. Weigh the 
watermelon-rind and allow about f of a pound of sugar to 
each pound of rind. Put the sugar by itself in the preserv- 
ing kettle, adding 1 gill of boiling water to each pound of 
sugar. Let it gradually dissolve and come to a gentle boil. 
Meanwhile put the watermelon-rind into boiling water in 
another vessel, and boil (covered) until tender, which will 
take from 30 to 45 minutes. When it looks evenly trans- 
parent, remove it from the fire ; drain off all the water ; 
wring it in a towel to squeeze out all moisture ; then lay 
the pieces on a platter to cool. They will look very dis- 
couraging and limp, but that is right. Now to return to the 
syrup. The water in which the lemon has been boiled 
should be used to wet the sugar, as far as it will, then 
plain boiling water added to make up the quantity required. 
Now bring the kettle forward and let the syrup come to a 
rapid boil, which it has to do before it will become crystal- 
clear. When it has bubbled and frothed up well, push it to 
the side of the range where it will subside again, then skim 
it thoroughly ; skimming before this point is waste of time 



508 GOOD LIVING. 

and sugar. When well-skimmed (our best Havemeyer & 
Elder or Moller brands require hardly any skimming), put 
into the syrup the watermelon, the sliced lemon, and the 
ginger, if it is yet tender. You can also add a little of 
the water in which the ginger has been boiled, if it is very 
pungent and strong. It will improve the flavor decidedly. 
Boil until the rind has filled out again thoroughly, and looks 
rich and transparent ; then skim out the fruit into jars or 
tumblers; boil down the syrup for 15 or 20 minutes ; pour 
the syrup over the fruit generously, and your preserved 
watermelon-rind is completed. It keeps admirably, and, 
though complicated, is not really troublesome. Citrons and 
drumheads may be treated as above. 

PRESERVED PLUMS. 

Make a Syrup for Preserves, as directed. When boiling 
again, after being well skimmed, drop in, a few at a time, 
plums which you have previously pricked with a coarse 
needle. Half of the stem may be left on, but this is not rec- 
ommended. Boil the fruit very gently in the syrup for 20 
minutes or more, until thoroughly soaked through. Then 
remove the fruit with a skimmer. Pack it in jars, f-full. 
Boil down the syrup 20 minutes or more until quite thick ; 
fill the jars to the top and set away to cool. Next day finish 
as directed for Peaches Preserved in Syrup. 

CHERRIES PRESERVED IN SYRUP. 

Prepare a Syrup for Preserves, as directed. 

Cut \ the stem off of the cherries. Proceed as above 
directed for plums ; boiling perhaps a few minutes less, say 
15 instead of 20 minutes. Finish as directed for Peaches 
Preserved in Syrup. 

PEACH SWEETMEATS. 

Allow 1 pound of granulated sugar to 1 pound of fruit, 6 
kernels to every pint jar. 



BLACKBERRY SWEETMEATS. 509 

Weigh the fruit ; pare, and cut in \. Put it into the kettle 
and stand on one side. When the juice begins to run, add 
the sugar ; when it dissolves, bring the kettle forward and 
let it boil until the peaches are thoroughly tender, as much 
cooked as they can be without going to pieces. Skim the 
fruit out. Drain. Fill the jars. Let the syrup boil quickly 
for 20 minutes, taking care that it does not scorch. Draw 
to one side and skim ; then fill the jars. Cool ; cover ; wash, 
and set away. These are very simple and keep well. 

5 TRA WBERR Y S WEE TMEA TS. 

2 pounds of granulated sugar, 2 heaping pints of very large berries, 
2 gills of boiling water. 

Put the sugar in a china-lined preserving kettle with the 
water ; stand it on one side of the range until the sugar is dis- 
solved ; then draw it forward, and, when boiling, put in the 
fruit. Boil about 10 minutes or more until the fruit is clear ; 
boil very gently, or the berries will break. Put them in 
tumblers or jars while the syrup boils down about 20 min- 
utes, or more, according to the wateriness of the fruit. The 
syrup must be rich and thick. Draw aside and let it settle ; 
then skim. Boil up once more and pour over the fruit, hav- 
ing first drained from it the thin syrup ; cover. If any syrup 
remains over, add to it enough vinegar to flavor ; boil up ; 
bottle and cork. It will make a refreshing drink after the 
style of Raspberry Vinegar. Great care must be taken to 
keep the berries not only whole but round, therefore while 
the jars are cooling, screw the covers on tightly ; turn the 
jars from side to side, to prevent .settling flat. 

BLA C KB ERR Y S WEE TMEA TS. 

Allow 1 pound of granulated sugar to 1 pound of fruit. 
Choose by preference the Lawtons for this purpose. Put the 
fruit into a porcelain-lined kettle and set on a very moderate 
fire until enough juice is drawn out to prevent scorching. 
Boil until perfectly tender, 10 or 15 minutes at least; then 



5IO GOOD-LIVING. 

add the sugar ; mix very carefully, not to bruise the fruit. Do 
not boil again. Just as soon as the sugar is thoroughly dis- 
solved, fill the jars as quickly as possible. Cover immediately. 
For Blackberry Jam, stir the fruit constantly and boil hard 
for 20 minutes, allowing f of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of 
fruit. 

CURRANT SWEETMEATS. 

Allow 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit. 

Pick over the fruit carefully, removing stems, leaves, etc. 
Weigh the fruit. Put it into a china-lined kettle and warm 
slowly. Stew gently from 20 to 30 minutes. Then add the 
sugar. Mix it through the fruit very carefully ; do not mash 
it. Do not boil again. Just as soon as the sugar is perfectly 
dissolved, fill the jars quickly ; cover cold, and set away. 
White currants and black may also be used as above. 

CHERR Y S WEE TMEA TS. 

May be prepared as above, as, indeed, may nearly all 
small fruits. 

GRAPE SWEETMEATS. 

Allow f of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit. 

Select, by preference, Isabellas, or some good, out-door, 
black grape. Weigh the fruit. With your fingers, squeeze 
the pulp from the skin of each grape, throwing the pulps 
into one bowl, the skins into another. This is called 
" popping " (not the question, but) the grapes. When done, 
put the pulp into a porcelain-lined kettle on the fire. Heat 
gradually, and then stew gently for about 15 minutes until, 
by testing, you will find that the seeds come out easily. 
Turn them into a coarse sieve and press all the juice and 
pulp through, leaving behind only the seeds. Now put pulp 
and skins back on the fire in the same kettle, and, when boil- 
ing, add the sugar, and continue to boil for about 30 minutes ; 
it should, by this time, be a rich dark color, and quite thick; 
if not, boil 15 minutes longer. Put into jars or glasses ; when 
cold, screw on the covers, wash, and set away. 



CURRA N T JELL Y. 5 1 1 

GRAPE JELLY. 

Proceed exactly as above, up to the point where the sugar 
is to be added. When the pulps and skins have boiled 
together 15 minutes, dip out some of the juice (it need not 
be strained), but no skins. To every pint of juice, allow 1 
pound of sugar. Bring the juice to a rapid boil for 10 min- 
utes ; then add the sugar, and, when thoroughly dissolved, 
put into glasses. When cold, cover. This jelly is never as 
clear or as firm as Currant Jelly, but is very good, and serves 
as a useful substitute for the latter in many cases. It is well 
to make the jelly at the same time as the preserves, as it 
saves trouble and time. It is useless to strain the above, as 
it is never transparent under any circumstances. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

" The following receipt has three advantages : first, it 
never fails ; secondly, it requires but half the usual quantity of 
sugar ; thirdly, it is far less trouble than the usual method." 
With such a recommendation from its author, it is felt safe 
to give the receipt. 

Weigh the currants without removing the stems. Do not 
wash them, but carefully remove all leaves and twigs that 
may adhere to them. To each pound of fruit, allow \ the 
weight in granulated sugar. Put a few currants into a 
porcelain-lined preserve-kettle. Mash them to provide juice 
enough to prevent scorching. Then add the rest "of the 
fruit ; heat gradually ; then boil briskly for 20 minutes, 
stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Then transfer to 
a close, strong jelly-bag, letting the liquid run into earthen 
or wooden vessels, never into tin, the acid of the fruit acting 
on the tin, affecting both color and flavor. When strained, 
return the juice to the kettle, without measuring. Bring it 
to a boil. Let it boil hard for a minute or 2, then add the 
sugar. The very instant the sugar is entirely dissolved, the 
jelly is ready, and must immediately be put into glasses. It 
will jelly in the cup as it is being taken up. — Mrs. Henderson 
in " Practical Cooking and Dinner-Giving." 



512 GOOD-LIVING. 

Gather the currants for jelly as soon as ripe; they will not 
jelly as well if allowed to get too ripe, as the pulp softens. 
Never gather fruit for jelly or preserves while wet with rain, 
or immediately after a rain. They must be entirely free 
from dampness, as well as from moisture. The first week in 
July, in these latitudes, is generally the best (and hottest!) 
time for making currant jelly. The above receipt may also 
be followed for Raspberry and Currant Jelly, using the fruits 
in equal quantities, or f- currants to \ raspberries. It is 
much more delicate and delicious than that made from 
currants alone. 

PEA CH MA RMA LA DE. 



Peel the peaches, and cut in small pieces, having previously 
weighed them. Put the fruit and sugar into a porcelain- 
lined preserving-kettle. Stir frequently to prevent scorching. 
Set the kettle where it will simmer steadily and gently. Let 
it cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 hours, until boiled 
down to thick marmalade. Crack and skin a handful of 
kernels, and add to the kettle. The marmalade will be 
ready to remove from the fire in 4^ to 5 hours, according to 
the heat of the fire. Skim. Put in glasses or jam-pots. It 
will keep for a long time, and is a most satisfactory preserve, 
giving very little trouble. 

N. B. — Do not boil it until it is dark brown, as is often 
done, nor until as thick as paste ; it will become thicker as 
well as darker when put away. 

PINE-APPLE MARMALADE. 

Allow 1 pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. 

Weigh the fruit ; then peel, take out the eyes, and grate the 
pine-apples coarsely. Put them, pulp and sugar, in a china- 
lined preserve-kettle on the fire. Heat gradually. Stir 
often. Cook very gently, but steadily, until clear and thick, 
which may require perhaps as much as 3 to 3^ hours. Put 
into tumblers, and, when cold, cover. 



MOLASSES CANDY. 513 

TO KEEP PIE-PLANT 

Wash out preserve jars, and fill them with cold water. Cut 
the rhubarb, or pie-plant, into lengths of 2 inches. Peel or 
not, as you prefer. Throw the rhubarb into the jars. As 
they fill, the water will overflow. When full, screw the tops 
on the jars and set away. The water excludes the air, and 
the fruit, treated in this way, will keep for months. When 
required for use, drain off the water, and cook according to 
any of the usual modes. 

JAMBOREE. 

7)4, pints of grape juice, Ground cinnamon, 
%yi pounds of pears, peeled and cut fine, " allspice, 

2>}i " " apples, " " " " " cloves, 

12 pounds sugar. 

Prepare the grapes as for Grape Jelly (see receipt), allowing 
\ pound of sugar to every pint of juice. When it has boiled 
rapidly for 20 minutes, put this syrup into a large kettle with 
the pears, apples, and sugar, allowing \ a pound of sugar to 
I pound of pears and apples. Bring to a boil ; then set aside 
where it will simmer gently, but without interruption. Stir 
very often, and mash the fruit as smooth as possible. After 
4 hours and 30 minutes, add ground spices, as above, using 
very little cloves. Mix well. Continue to boil for about 6 
hours in all. Then, if like thick batter, put into jars. When 
cold (after 1 or 2 days), cover. The jamboree should be 
almost of the consistency of apple-butter. 

MOLASSES CANDY. 

I cup of New Orleans molasses, 1 cup of brown sugar, 

1 tablespoon of vinegar, I ounce of melted butter. 

Mix and boil together, without stirring, for about 25 min- 
utes, until it hardens when a little is dropped into cold 
water. Add 1 level teaspoonful of baking-soda, and stir only 
just enough to mix. Pour immediately into shallow, well- 
33 



514 GOOD-LIVING. 

buttered tins, and set away until hard. Or, pull it, dipping 
the hands, during the process, in ice-water or in melted 
butter. 

PEA-NUT CANDY. 

Remove shells and skins from the nuts ; almost fill the 
greased pans with them ; pour over them the hot Molasses 
Candy (see above) when sufficiently boiled, and set away in a 
cool place to harden. 

PECAN-NUT CANDY. 

4 pounds of brown sugar, I pound of butter, 

i quart of kernels, y 2 pint of boiling water. 

Put the sugar in a saucepan with the boiling water. Boil 
hard for 20 minutes. Add the butter. Boil 5 minutes. Stir 
hard. Add the nuts. When it comes again to a boil, pour 
it into small buttered tins or saucers, and set away to harden. 

BLACK-WALNUT CANDY. 
Make exactly according to above receipt. 

CARAMELS. 

1 cup of molasses, I cup of brown sugar, 

2 cups ' ' grated chocolate, 1 " " white ' ' 
2 " " cream (sweet), Vanilla to taste, 

1 teaspoon of flour. 

Mix together to a smooth paste the flour, chocolate, and 
some of the cream. Boil 30 minutes, with the sugars, cream, 
and flavoring. Pour into greased, flat pans, and when almost 
cold, mark in squares with a knife. 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, ETC. 

NOTE. — Nearly all pickles are much improved by being 
allowed to stand some time before being used. 

GREEN TOMATO SOY. 

2 gallons sliced green tomatoes, 2 tablespoons of salt, 

12 large onions, sliced, 2 " " ground mustard, 

12 green peppers, " 2 " " black pepper, 

2 quarts best cider vinegar, I tablespoon of allspice, 

i quart brown sugar, I " " cloves. 

Stew all together until tender, stirring often to prevent 
burning. They will require about 5 hours' slow boiling. 
Put up in small glass jars, letting the vinegar cover the 
pickles well. The pickle should be allowed to stand some 
time before using. 

GREEN TOM A TO PICKLES. 

1 cup of salt, I tablespoon of ground mustard seed. 

2 pounds of brown sugar, y 2 teaspoon of red pepper, or pods in 
i gallon of best cider vinegar, strips, 

I tablespoon of white mustard seed, 2 quarts of boiling water, 

whole, I peck of green tomatoes, sliced, 

6 large onions (white), chopped fine. 

Sprinkle the tomatoes and onions with salt and stand over- 
night. Next day, drain. Boil 15 minutes in 2 quarts of 
boiling water and 1 quart of vinegar. Drain again. Pre- 
pare the pickle with the rest of the vinegar and spices ; add 
the tomatoes and onions to it. Boil 2 hours, stirring fre- 
quently to prevent scorching. Put into jars while hot. Let 
the vinegar cover the pickle well. Close and set away. 
Recommended. 

515 



516 GOOD-LIVING. 

BLACK PICKLE. 

I peck of green tomatoes, sliced, I ounce ground cloves, 

Handful of salt, I " " ginger, 

1 pint brown sugar, I " " pepper, 
i gallon best vinegar, i " " allspice, 

2 ounces dry mustard. 

Throw the salt over the sliced tomatoes ; let them stand 
overnight. In the morning, squeeze out the salt, and put 
the tomatoes in the kettle. Mix the spices, etc., together in 
a bowl. Sprinkle them over the tomatoes. Add the vine- 
gar, and let all boil slowly for 5 hours, stirring frequently to 
avoid burning. Put the pickles in jars. Let the vinegar 
cover the pickles well. Cork and seal the jars. It will keep 
for years (if allowed to). 

This is an old-fashioned receipt, and is worthy of being 
perpetuated. 

CELERY PICKLE. 

% pound white mustard seed, 2 tablespoons of salt, 

2 quarts of chopped white cabbage, 4 or 5 tablespoons of sugar, 

2 " " " celery, y z ounce white ginger-root (crushed 

3 " " vinegar, best, in a mortar), 

% ounce turmeric. 

Boil all together, in a porcelain-lined kettle, slowly for 4 or 
5 hours (no longer), until the cabbage and celery are perfectly 
tender. Put into jars. Let the vinegar cover the pickle 
well ; cork tightly. Do not let the pickle boil hard at any 
time. 

PEPPER PICKLE. 

25 green peppers, Vinegar to cover, 

Double their bulk in cabbage, 1 tablespoon of mustard seed, 

2 gills of salt, 1 " " ground cloves, 

1 tablespoon of ground allspice. 

Remove the seeds from the peppers and chop the fruit. 
Chop the cabbage. Add all the other ingredients ; cover 
with cold vinegar. Put in jars, being careful that the vine- 
gar covers the pickles. Cork tightly. 

Use a napkin or cotton gloves to prepare the peppers, or 
they will burn your hands. 



INDIAN PICKLE. 517 

PICKLED NASTURTIUMS. 

Have jars partly filled with salted vinegar ; as the nastur- 
tiums are gathered, wash and dry them and throw them into 
the vinegar, always being careful that the vinegar covers the 
nasturtiums. 

INDIAN PICKLE. 

1 white cabbage, 12 shallots, 

Cauliflower, 2 sticks sliced horse-radish, 

Radish-pods, % pound of ginger-root, 

String-beans, 2 ounces whole black pepper, 

Gherkins, 1 ounce whole allspice, 

Small white onions, 12 cloves, 

Nasturtiums, % ounce cayenne, 

Peppers, etc., 2 ounces mustard-seed, 

I gallon of vinegar, ^ pound ground mustard, 

6 cloves of garlic, 1 ounce turmeric. 

Slice a firm, white cabbage ; divide the flowerets of the 
cauliflowers ; sprinkle salt over them in a large dish, or 
wooden tub, and set aside for 48 hours ; then dry and put 
them into a large jar, with the garlic and other seasonings 
in the above proportions. Boil the vinegar and pour over 
them ; the vinegar should cover the vegetables well. When 
cold, cover the jar. 

As the other vegetables ripen in season, they may be 
added to the jar. They must first be washed in cold 
vinegar, wiped, and then simply added to the other ingredi- 
ents in the jar, only taking care that they are covered hy the 
vinegar. If more vinegar should be required, do not fail to 
boil it before adding to the rest. When all the vegetables 
are collected, turn the contents of the jar into a large bowl ; 
mix thoroughly. Pack the vegetables in smaller jars with- 
out the vinegar. Boil the vinegar again, adding to it as 
much more as may be required to fill the jars, and adding 
to this cold fresh vinegar more of the same seasonings in the 
above proportions. Bring to a boil, and, while boiling, pour 
over the pickle. When cold, cover. This keeps well, if 
entirely covered with vinegar. 



518 GOOD-LIVING. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

To i quart of vinegar allow : 

2 tablespoons whole allspice, 2 tablespoons whole black pepper. 

The onions should be of the smallest, white, ripe, and dry. 
Remove the first skin with the fingers ; the second skin with 
a silver knife ; (steel spoils the color of the onions). Pack 
in well-washed and dried bottles or jars. Pour over the 
onions sufficient cold vinegar to cover, seasoned with pepper 
and allspice in the above proportions. Be careful that the 
vinegar covers the onions well. Cover and tie down tightly, 
to exclude the air. In a fortnight the onions will be ready 
for use. The above receipt is simple, and the onions nice 
and crisp. They should, however, not be kept more than 
6 or 8 months, or they may soften. Mason's Latest Improved 
Jars are recommended for this purpose. 

PICKLE HASH. 

]/ z medium-sized cabbage, I large or 2 small Spanish onions, 

4 large heads of celery, 2 cucumbers, 

4 tablespoons of grated horse-radish, i red and i green pepper, 

6 large green tomatoes, Best cider vinegar. 

Chop all and mix together. Put a layer 2 inches deep in 
a crock ; sprinkle with I tablespoonful of salt ; then put 
another layer of vegetables and salt, and so on until all are 
used. Let stand 24 hours. Drain. Press out all liquid. 
Cover with boiling water. Let stand 10 minutes, then press 
out all moisture with the hands. Bring the vinegar to a 
boil. To every quart of vinegar, add \ teaspoonful of pow- 
dered alum, and dissolve. Put the vegetables in the jar 2 
inches deep ; sprinkle with mustard-seed, black pepper, and 
horse-radish ; another layer of vegetables, another of spices, 
and so on. Pour over this the boiling vinegar. Let it cover 
the pickle well. Cover tightly. Let stand a few days. 
Keeps well. 



SPICED PEACHES. $19 

PICKLED GHERKINS OR SMALL CUCUMBERS. 

Scald with brine and set aside in the brine 24 hours. 
Drain dry and wipe. Put in jars. Throw over them well- 
spiced boiling vinegar (see receipt for Green Tomato Pickles). 
Let stand 2 weeks or longer before using. The vinegar must 
cover the pickles well. 

PICKLED STRING-BEANS. 

Lay young, tender beans in strong brine overnight. 
Drain and dry. Fill jars with them. Cover with hot, spiced 
vinegar (see Green Tomato Pickles), with \ teaspoonful of 
powdered alum to I quart of vinegar. Let the vinegar 
cover the pickles well. Cork, and set away for 6 weeks at 
least. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER. 

Scald until tender ; separate the flowerets ; drain and fin- 
ish as Pickled String-Beans. 

GREEN TOMATO SWEET PICKLE. 

Pare 2 pounds of firm green tomatoes. Boil them in hot 
vinegar and water (£ of each) for 30 minutes. Make a syrup 
of 1 pint of strong vinegar and \\ pounds of brown sugar 
for every 2 pounds of the tomatoes. Spice to taste with 
cinnamon, mace, and ginger-root (all whole). Boil 20 min- 
utes. Drain the tomatoes from the plain vinegar and water ; 
put them into the syrup and boil 45 minutes. Put into pre- 
serve jars ; cover well with the syrup ; when cool, close and 
set away. 

SPICED PEACHES. 

7 pounds peaches, |^ ounce stick-cinnamon, 

3 " brown sugar, ^ " whole cloves, 

1 quart vinegar. 

Let the sugar, spices, and vinegar simmer gently while 
peeling the peaches ; then boil all together until the fruit is 
tender. Put in jars and cork tightly. Let the vinegar cover 
the fruit well. 



5 20 GOOD-LI VING. 

PEPPER VINEGAR. 
Fill a small bottle ^--full of very small cherry peppers or 
chillies ; fill it up with best wine or cider vinegar. Will be 
ready for use in a few days. The older it grows, the stronger 
and better it is. The bottle may be filled up with vinegar 
as it diminishes. Two or 3 drops for a plate of soup or salad 
will be found sufficient. 

SPIRITS OF PEPPER. 
Fill a small bottle, as above, -g-full of peppers ; fill it up 
with pure alcohol. Cork tightly and set away for several 
months, or even years. It is improved by time. Use, as 
above, for soups, salads, sauces, etc. 

TARRAGON VINEGAR. 

VINAIGRE A L'ESTRAGON. 

Put into a clean quart bottle £ pint of tarragon leaves ; fill 
it with best wine or cider vinegar. Steep for 2 weeks. Then 
strain through a flannel bag ; bottle, cork, and seal. Set 
away in a cool place. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. 
Pare, split, remove the seeds, and grate the cucumbers. 
Allow to each pint of pulp : 

}4 pint good vinegar (cold), i teaspoon salt, 

% teaspoon cayenne, 2 level tablespoons of grated horse-radish. 

Drain the pulp before adding to it the other ingredients. 
Bottle, cork tightly, and seal. The horse-radish may be 
omitted. 

TOM A TO CA TSUP NO. I. 

I bushel of ripe tomatoes, 1% ounces black pepper, ground, 

% gallon best vinegar, 1% " allspice, ground, 

}i pound brown sugar, 2 " mustard, " 

yi pint of salt, I ounce ginger, " 

I " " alcohol, y z " cloves, " 

% ounce cayenne, ground, }4 " garlic, chopped fine. 

Boil the tomatoes whole in a china-lined kettle for 30 
minutes. Press through a coarse sieve all except seeds and 



SPICED VINE GAP. 



521 



skins. Now boil down to 1^ gallons ; add vinegar. Boil 
again to if gallons. Then add spices, garlic, etc. Mix. 
Bring to a boil, stirring continually ; remove from the fire. 
Add alcohol. Bottle while hot. Cork and seal. This is a 
day's work. 

TOM A TO CA TSUP NO. II. 



%, bushel of ripe tomatoes, 
yi ounce of cayenne, 
1 head of garlic, 



]^ ounce of ground mace, 
X " " " ginger, 
J/ " "' " cloves. 



Slice the tomatoes without peeling. Put into a china- 
lined kettle, and boil until tender. Press through a sieve all 
the pulp. Boil until reduced to f of its bulk. Add all the 
ingredients, and boil 30 minutes longer ; then bottle, cork, 
and seal. 

SPICED VINEGAR. 

VINAIGRE AROMATISE. 



3 pounds of sugar, 

2 ounces " whole cloves, 

2 " " " allspice, 

2 " " " celery-seed, 

2 " " " mustard-seed, 



2 ounces of whole mace, 

3 " " " pepper, 

2 " " " turmeric, 

2 " " " white ginger, cut in bits. 

3 gallons of best cider vinegar. 



Mix the spices ; put them in bags of thin but strong mus- 
lin ; lay them in a 3-gallon crock with a small neck, and fill 
it with the best cider vinegar. Keep closely covered, and 
use for salads and sauces. After infusing until well flavored, 
it may be strained into bottles, corked, sealed, and set away. 



BEVERAGES, ETC 
DRIP-COFFEE FOR BREAKFAST. 

CAFE AU LAIT. 

Use for this the French coffee biggin. See that the 
strainers are all in place and the coffee-pot absolutely clean. 
This is a more important point than is generally imagined. 
Tin coffee-pots require more than ordinary care, for the rea- 
son that the chemical action of the coffee upon the tin 
creates a bluish substance which collects and clings to every 
crevice and seam, and, in the course of time, affects the 
flavor of the coffee most peculiarly and unpleasantly. Use, 
therefore, in preference, a coffee-pot made on the system of 
the biggin, but in earthenware instead of tin. They are im- 
ported to New York, and are not expensive, their only dis- 
advantage being the fact that they are breakable. Having 
the strainers all ready and in order, and the coffee ground 
just fine enough not to pass through the second strainer, 
put it into the biggin, allowing I heaping tablespoonful of 
ground coffee for each cup, and one for the coffee-pot. 
Place the top strainer in position. Set on the corner of the 
range and pour in the measured quantity of water required, 
which should be freshly boiled. Cover. Let it trickle 
through ; then pour the coffee into a cup and back over the 
grounds once or more, according to the degree of strength 
required. Keep the coffee-pot where it will be just short of 
boiling, and be sure the spout and top are well covered 
while the coffee is dripping. Serve immediately with boiled 
milk. 

522 



TO MAKE GOOD TEA. 523 

AFTER-DINNER DRIP-COFFEE. 

CAFE NOIR. 

Make exactly the same as Drip-Coffee for Breakfast, 
allowing \ the usual quantity of boiling water to the amount 
of coffee indicated. Serve at the same time a small pitcher 
of very sweet cream. If the cream is not fresh as well as 
sweet, the heat of the coffee will curdle it. 

BOILED COFFEE. 

Allow the same proportions as for Drip-Coffee that is, 1 
heaping tablespoon of ground coffee to each cup, and I for 
the pot. Mix with the raw grounds the white of I egg to 
about 5 cups of coffee, and \ cup of cold water. Crush the 
shell of the egg and throw it into the coffee-pot. Put in the 
coffee and white of egg, then pour on freshly-boiled water to 
the amount required ; close lid and spout tightly. Let it 
boil for about 3 minutes hard, then throw in about a wine- 
glassful of cold water to settle it ; draw it a little aside, 
where it will keep very hot but not boil, and let stand 10 
or 1 5 minutes ; serve then, immediately, with boiled milk. 
Breakfast coffee with cream need not be quite as strong as 
that drunk with milk, as the latter serves to dilute it more. 
In making coffee (especially boiled coffee) be sure that the 
spout is tightly closed, as well as the lid, to keep in the 
aroma. There are many varieties of coffee-pots, each having 
with it the directions for its special use. The above receipt 
is for a plain coffee-pot. 

TO MAKE GOOD TEA. 

Put the tea-kettle on the fire, filled with 'fresh, cold water, 
and bring it to a boil. Select a tea-pot of an appropriate 
size for the quantity of tea you wish to make ; that is, for a 
few cups do not use a large tea-pot. As soon as the water 
comes to a boil, pour some of it into the tea-pot and let it stand 
on the corner of the range for 1 or 2 minutes, until it is 



524 GOOD-LIVING. 

thoroughly heated. Throw out this water ; leave the cover 
open ; stand again on the range until dry, only a few minutes. 
Now put in the tea, allowing i teaspoonful for each person 
and i for the pot. Close the lid and leave the tea-pot upon 
the range I minute, or perhaps 2, until the tea-leaves are 
heated through. Now pour on at the one time all the water 
you will require. Close the lid and stand in a hot corner 
3 to 5 minutes, then serve it immediately. 

For teas, where the one tea-pot has to serve an unknown 
number of guests, it should be replenished from the boiling 
kettle after each cup that is taken from it. The tea-pot, if 
of moderate size, should be £ filled with leaves, and then it 
need not stand to draw, if kept constantly replenished from 
the boiling kettle after each cup. When it begins to look 
weaker than it should, have the leaves thrown out and fresh 
tea made as before. 

RUSSIAN TEA. 

Make the Tea as directed. Serve it in glasses with sugar 
to taste and a slice of lemon in each glass. 

ICED TEA. 

Make the Tea as directed. Put it in the ice-box. When 
ready to serve, |-fill a glass pitcher with ice ; put in a sliced 
lemon ; sweeten the tea, and pour it over the ice. Stir until 
very cold, and serve. The tea should not be as strong as for 
drinking hot. 

CHOCOLA TE. 

CHOCOLAT. 

1 ounce of grated chocolate, yd. pint of new milk, 

3 tablespoons of whipped cream. 

These are the proportions for 1 cup. Melt the chocolate 
in a farina-kettle with 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of the cold milk. 
Bring the rest of the milk to a boil. When the chocolate is 
melted, stir in the boiling milk, add sugar to taste, cover, 



EGG AND WINE. 525 

and boil 5 minutes over boiling water. Remove ; beat with 
a Dover egg-beater until light and smooth. Serve with the 
whipped cream heaped upon the chocolate in the cup. 

COCOA, BROMA, RACAHOUT. 
These all have the directions for making printed on the 
package. 

ICED COCOA AS A SUMMER DRINK. 

This is very wholesome and innocuous. Follow directions 
for the proportions given on the package, using |- of the 
liquid allowed, and that water. When made and well- 
sweetened, put it away on the ice. Put cracked ice in a 
tumbler ; put £ of cold cocoa, fill with ice-cold milk. Or, 
have the cocoa made in the proportion of |- of the liquid 
allowed ; sweeten, cool it, and use with 3 parts of soda-water. 
It is nourishing as well as refreshing. 

EGG-NOGG. 

3 gills of rum, 1 pound powdered sugar, scant, 

1 gill of brandy, 1 nutmeg, grated, 

r quart of cream, 1 teaspoon of ground mace, 

10 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart. 

Beat the yolks to a cream ; add to them the other ingredi- 
ents ; adding the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, just before 
the cream. If bottled and put in a cold place, will keep 3 or 
4 days, but must be shaken before being used. Recom- 
mended. 

EGG AND WINE. 

Break the white of 1 egg upon a plate, the yolk into a 
tumbler. Beat the yolk to a cream with a small teaspoonful 
1 of powdered sugar ; add one teaspoon of sherry wine or \ 
the quantity of brandy or rum. Beat the white to a stiff 
froth ; then beat this into the yolk until evenly and thor- 
oughly mixed. A little chopped ice may be beaten with the 
yolk of egg. Grate a little nutmeg over the top and serve 
very cold. This is excellent for delicate people and in- 
valids. 



526 GOOD-LIVING. 

MULLED CLARET. 

VIN CHAUD. 
I cup of claret, i cup of boiling water, 

Grated nutmeg, 2 or 3 tablespoons of soft sugar, 

6 whole cloves, 12 whole allspice, 

4 inches stick-cinnamon. 

Boil the water with sugar and spices for 10 to 15 minutes, 
until thoroughly flavored with the spices. Dissolve the 
sugar in it. Remove from the fire and pour into a covered 
pitcher through a strainer. Have the claret in the pitcher. 
Add a little nutmeg, and more sugar if necessary. Serve 
immediately. 

TEA-PUNCH. 

PONCHE AU THE. 
6 lemons, 1 quart of strong green tea, 

\Yz pounds of granulated sugar, 1 " " Jamaica rum. 

Peel the thin yellow rind from the lemons ; squeeze the 
juice. Add these to the sugar. Pour the tea, while boiling, 
over the sugar. Add the rum. Bottle, and stand away for 
use. Less rum may be used if preferred. It should be 
diluted with ice before being used. 

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 

2 pounds of sugar, ^ ounce of ground nutmeg, 

^ ounce of ground cinnamon, j£ " " cloves, 

Yz " " allspice, 1 pint of 4th-proof best French brandy, 

2 quarts of blackberry-juice. 

Boil the juice, sugar, and spices 2 hours. Strain. Then 
add immediately the brandy. Bottle while hot ; cork, seal, 
and set away. 

GINGER-BEER. 

1% pounds granulated sugar, 2 ounces bruised ginger-root, 

2 ounces cream of tartar, Juice and rind of 1 lemon, 

4 quarts of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of yeast (or ^ yeast cake). 

Put all the ingredients in a bowl with the water, adding 
the yeast when lukewarm. In 6 hours strain ; put in bottles 
with patent tops, for it becomes effervescent. Keep in a 
cool place. 



CURRANT WINE. $2? 

ROOT-BEER. 

The roots come already prepared in small packages with 
directions for use. To be had at the grocers. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

VINAIGRE FRAMBOISE. 

i quart of vinegar, 6 quarts of raspberries, 

Sugar. 

Pour the vinegar over 3 quarts of ripe raspberries in a 
crock; let them steep 24 hours. Strain. Pour this liquor 
over 3 quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it infuse again 24 
hours. Strain again. Measure the juice, and add 1 pound 
of white sugar to each pint of juice. Boil 20 minutes ; skim, 
bottle cold. To drink, mix |- syrup with f- water. 

LEMON BRANDY. 

1 pint of brandy, 2 ounces of granulated sugar, 
Yellow rind of 2 lemons, 1 gill of boiling water. 

Put the yellow rind (no white) into a bottle with the 
brandy. Let it infuse 24 hours. Strain. Boil the sugar 
and water for about 4 minutes. Skim. When cold, add to 
the brandy. Bottle and cork tightly. Use as a flavoring for 
custards and other desserts. 

CURRANT WINE. 

To 1 quart of juice allow: 

2 quarts of water (cold), 3 pounds of sugar, granulated. 

Stir all well together. Let stand 24 hours. Skim. Set 
in a cool place. Allow it to ferment slowly for 3 or 4 days. 
If at the end of that time it has ceased fermenting, add 1 
quart of brandy to every 15 gallons of the above mixture. 
Close the barrel tightly, and when it has settled and become 
clear, it is ready to bottle. Keep 6 months before using. 
Improves with age. 



528 GOOD-LIVING. 

PHILADELPHIA FISH-HOUSE PUNCH. 

To every pint of lemon- or lime-juice add 3 pints of the 
mixture given below : 

% pint of Jamaica rum, 1 gill of cognac, 

i gill of best peach brandy, 4 pounds of loaf sugar, 

5 quarts of water. 

When ice is added, use less water. 

KUMMEL CORDIAL. 

2 pounds of granulated sugar, 1 quart of best alcohol, 

1 quart and I gill of boiling water, 25 to 30 drops of Ktimmel Oil. 

Pour the boiling water on the sugar in a china-lined pre- 
serving-kettle. Stir over the fire until dissolved. Bring to 
a boil. From the moment it breaks into a boil, allow it to 
boil 20 minutes. Set aside to cool. Strain. When luke- 
warm, add the alcohol and oil. Stir to mix thoroughly. 
Bottle and set away. Keep at least I month before using. 
This improves with age. German apothecaries sell this oil. 
Recommended. 




COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 

BEEF-JUICE. 

Select a piece of lean, freshly-killed beef, cut about f of an 
inch thick. Broil it over red-hot coals for about 2 minutes 
on each side, no longer. Stand a cup in a bowl of boiling 
water, and squeeze the beef-juice into the cup with a patent 
beef- or lemon-squeezer. Add a pinch of salt and keep the 
cup standing in the hot water until required for use. Noth- 
ing is more distasteful to a delicate appetite than half-cold, 
half-cooked beef-juice. If made as above, it will have the 
nutty flavor of the seared meat, and need not be at all 
unpalatable. 

PLAIN BEEF- TEA. 

I pound of lean, fresh-killed beef, I pint of cold water, 

2 even teaspoons of salt. 

Cut the beef in very small dice, or, better still, have the 
butcher criss-cross or hackle it with a sharp butcher's knife. 
Cover it with the cold water ; add salt ; soak I hour. Put 
the bowl or cup in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it 
heat over the fire until it nearly reaches boiling-point. On 
no account allow it to boil. Strain the pieces of meat out 
through a rather coarse strainer, and serve immediately with 
a small bit of toast. 

DELICIOUS BEEF- TEA. 

Prepare the beef as in preceding receipt. Put it into a 
perfectly clean bottle. Add a little salt, a sprig of parsley, 
and i or 2 fresh celery-leaves. Add the water, I pint, cold. 
34 529 



530 GOOD-LIVING. 

Cork tightly ; put the bottle into a pot of lukewarm water 
and let it come gradually to a boil. Boil 3 or 4 hours. It 
maybe used after 2 hours, but is even better if cooked longer. 
Uncork; strain and serve with toast. This is acceptable to 
many invalids who do not like ordinary beef-tea. 

FLOUR-BALL FOR INFANTS' FOOD. 
Tie 1 pint of flour as closely as possible in a strong cotton 
cloth. Put it into a pot of boiling water and boil 4 hours. 
Be sure it is well-covered with water. The pot should be 
covered. Then take the ball out and set aside to cool. To 
use it, scrape a little of the ball ; mix with cold water or 
milk ; stir into boiling milk ; season with a pinch of salt ; 
make thicker or thinner as may be required. The flour-ball 
will keep in a cool, dry place for weeks. 

KUMYSS. 

1 quart of new milk, i tablespoon of brewer's yeast, 

2 tablespoons of Trommer Malt Extract. 

Mix and set by the range at a temperature of 90 Fahr. 
until it begins to work, then pour it off into self-sealing 
beer-bottles and set in a cool place. Recommended. 

PARCHED RICE. 

Roast the rice until of a rich, even brown. Throw into 
salted boiling water and boil until perfectly tender. Do not 
stir if it can be avoided. Drain. Serve with sugar. 

RICE-WATER. 
Proceed as above, boiling the rice a little longer. Strain 
out the grains, and use the water. 

TOAST-WATER. 

Cut slices of stale bread ; toast over a slow fire until very 
dry and evenly brown, not burned. Put into a pitcher ; 
cover with boiling water. Infuse for 1 or 2 hours ; strain 
the water and use. 



See receipt. 
See receipt. 
See receipt. 
See receipt. 
See receipt. 
See receipt. 



INDIAN-MEAL GRUEL. 53 1 

TAPIOCA JELLY. 

EGG-NOGG. 

EGG-AND-WINE. 

MULLED CLARET. 

CHICKEN CONSOMME. 

CHICKEN JELL Y. 



ARROW-ROOT BLANC-MANGE. 

I cup of boiling water, 2 heaping teaspoons of arrow-root, 

Sugar, sherry wine, and nutmeg. 

When the water boils, blend the arrow-root with a very- 
little cold water ; pour it into the boiling water ; stir steadily 
until it becomes thick and transparent. Remove from the 
fire ; then stir in sugar to taste. Add 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of 
sherry ; mix ; pour into a tumbler ; grate a little nutmeg 
over the top, and set away to cool. It will become firmer as 
it cools, but should never be hard. Excellent. 

INDIAN-MEAL GRUEL. 

Blend 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian meal with a little cold 
water. Have ready boiling 1 quart of well-salted water. 
Stir in the meal. Stir for a few minutes, then set where it 
will boil gently for 4 hours. Stir occasionally. Do not 
cover the pot. Serve with a little cream added. Or, blend 
I teaspoonful of flour with a little cold water ; stir it into 
the boiling gruel ; boil 3 minutes, stirring constantly, and 
serve. 



STRAY NOTES. 

CHOPPING MACHINE. 

Much time is saved and excellent results are obtained by 
the use of the " Enterprise Chopper." Number 10 is small, 
but serviceable ; No. 3 is an excellent size for general utility. 
It is a most efficient aid in making croquettes, pates, meat- 
loaves, etc. 

VEGETABLE PRESS. 

For making purees of all kinds there is an excellent, small 
hand-press manufactured by the Silver Co. It is not only an 
economy of labor and time, but also of sieves, as the usual 
mode of pressing the pur£e through a coarse sieve wears out 
the latter very rapidly. 

EGG-BE A TERS. 

The best and most reliable egg-beater is either the 
" Dover" or one which is made of a bunch of wires fastened 
together by a wire handle. 

ICE-CREAM FREEZER. 

The White Mountain Freezer is recommended as being 
about the most practical at the present time. 

FR YING-BA SKE T. 

This is an indispensable article where well-fried croquettes, 
etc., are desired. Being of very moderate cost, no kitchen 
should be without one. These baskets are made of fine 
wire woven in large meshes. 

532 



STRAY NOTES. 533 

SHEETS OF TIN OR IRON. 

Have at hand 2 or 3 sheets of iron or tin, 12 x 14 or 16 
inches, for baking drop-cakes and all such things as might be 
disfigured by being lifted over the rim of a baking-pan. 
They will be found very useful. 

PICKLES AND PRESERVES. 

Use for putting up pickles and preserves the " Mason's 
Latest Improved " jars, with wide mouths. They are the 
best made, the cover being in one piece and so arranged that 
no metal comes in contact with the contents of the jars. 

TO TRUSS SMALL BIRDS. 

Use small wooden toothpicks for skewering small birds. 
Do not remove them before serving, as they help to give a 
trim appearance to the birds. 

PLANKED SHAD. 

For planked shad use a thick, handsome oak-board. At- 
tach the shad with white tacks or wooden pegs. When ready 
to serve, remove the tacks or pegs and serve on the oak 
plank. 

TO OPEN CLAMS WITHOUT A KNIFE. 

Wash the shells ; stand them on the hinge-end in a bake- 
pan. Put a few spoonfuls of boiling water in the pan ; set 
the pan in the oven until the shells part, when they may be 
easily opened and cooked as required. 

TO SELECT OYSTERS. 

Choose by preference for eating raw on the half-shell, very 
small Blue Points. For cooking, especially for frying, the 
best are the Shrewsburys and Saddle Rocks. 



534 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO SELECT LOBSTERS. 

If possible, never buy a lobster that is already boiled. If 
unavoidable, however, you may ascertain the condition of 
the lobster, when cooked, by pressing the tail outward. If 
it is elastic and, when released, flies back instantly to its first 
position, you may know that it was alive when put down to 
boil. The tail should be curled inward as an indication also 
of the same fact. 

VENISON. 

Venison is best when it has been frozen and partially 
thawed 2 or 3 times. In winter it will keep for 6 weeks, if 
hung in the open air. When cut into steaks and set in the 
ice-box, it will not keep any longer than other meats. 

ROAST TURKEY. 
For roasting, select by preference a young hen-turkey. 

SWEETBREADS. 

Always cook sweetbreads in a china-lined saucepan, and 
use a silver or plated knife to cut them, as steel is considered 
to be injurious both to flavor and color. 

BEEF'S LIVER. 

Before cooking sliced beef's liver, always throw boiling 
water over it ; let it stand 5 minutes ; then wipe dry and 
proceed with the cooking. 

LARDING-PORK. 

Larding-pork should be thrown into ice-water before using, 
to harden it. 

CALF'S HEAD. 

In preparing calf 's head for cooking, be most careful to 
cleanse not only the ears, but also scald out with boiling 
water the nose and throat passages. 



STRA Y NOTES. 535 

HAM BONE. 
When a ham is consumed, always use the bone to boil in 
pease soup. It is an excellent addition. 

COLD GAME AND MEA T 
To keep overnight cooked game or meat that has been 
cut, so that it may remain moist and fresh, wrap it in con- 
fectioner's paper and place it in the ice-box. Cut cake may 
be kept in the same way. 

TO THAW FROZEN MEATS. 

The best way to thaw frozen meat, is to hang it in the 
kitchen overnight. If in a hurry to thaw poultry, the 
quickest way is to lay it in a pan with ice or ice-water ; but 
it is best to avoid this, if possible. 

TO PRESERVE TURKEYS AND CHICKENS. 

Joint them after cleaning ; cut up as for fricassee. Put 
the pieces into a hot frying-pan with drippings or butter and 
let them sear on all sides. Then put them into an earthen- 
ware crock. Melt lard or clarified drippings ; pour into the 
crock until the chicken is quite covered. This seals the 
meat from the air when cold. In winter it will keep for 
weeks in a cool place, but do not allow it to freeze. When 
ready to use, take out what is required ; scrape off the fat, 
and prepare according to taste, fricasseed, stewed, etc., etc. 
If any remains in the crock, seal it as before with hot lard 
and set away. 

TO KEEP SAUSAGES. 

Prick with a fork. Toss in a hot frying-pan until cooked 
on all sides ; put into a crock with lard, etc., and seal as 
above. 

PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, AND QUAIL. 

Always cover the breasts of these birds before cooking 
with thin slices of pork, unless larded ; they are naturally 



536 GOOD-LIVING. 

dry birds, and this greatly improves them. Do not use 
bacon for the purpose, as its flavor is so pronounced that it 
overpowers that of the bird. 

MEATS TO BE SERVED COLD. 

Tongue should be allowed to get cold first in the water in 
which it is boiled. If it is to be put away cold afterwards, it 
should be rolled in a clean, coarse cloth and set in the ice- 
box. Corn-beef should also be allowed to cool in the water 
in which it is boiled. A la Mode Beef or Daube should be 
put into a large bowl, covered with their own hot gravy, 
shut up tight, and set away. Chickens, stewed and fricasseed 
should be treated in the same way. Save all the gravy for 
the purpose. The usual mode of thrusting the meat into 
the ice-box, leaving it to dry out as it cools, is a mistake ; it 
makes the surfaces dry and juiceless, and, as a rule, most un- 
appetizing. When gravy is lacking, a little good broth may 
be used to pour over the meat or chicken before it is set 
away to cool, covered. 

TO MAKE. TOUGH MEAT TENDER. 

Cut the steaks the day before they are required into 
slices about 2 inches thick. Rub the surfaces with a little 
baking-soda. Next morning, wash off the soda ; cut the 
meat into the shape and thickness desired, and cook it to 
taste. The same process may be used for poultry, mutton, 
etc. 

TO MAKE CHICKENS WHITE AND TENDER. 

The moment before they are to be killed, make them 
swallow 1 tablespoonful of best vinegar, then finish as 
usual. 

RULE FOR BOILING PEAS, ETC. 

Never put the lid on the pot while boiling spinach, peas, 
beans, or Brussels sprouts. By observing this rule, the vege- 
tables will be found to preserve their fresh green color. 



STRAY NOTES. 537 



TO POACH EGGS. 



Note that in poaching eggs, the water should not boil 
after the egg is put into it, as the jumping of the water in 
ebullition makes the edges ragged and untidy. The eggs 
should cook slowly and quietly. Be sure, however, that the 
water boils when the egg is put in. 

WA TER OF BOILED POT A TOES. 

The water in which potatoes are boiled with their skins on 
is said to be poisonous. It is said to be excellent for de- 
stroying green-fly on rose-bushes. 

OYSTER-PLANT. 

Never expose this to the air when once it is scraped. 
Throw it immediately into cold water. Cook in a china- 
lined saucepan, as iron also discolors it. 

TO PEEL ONIONS. 

Put the onions in a bowl of cold water. Peel them with a 
sharp knife under water. This saves tears. 

TO BOIL CAULIFLOWER. 

To, prevent breaking the flower, tie it in a piece of clean 
cheese-cloth. When boiled, it can be raised out of the pot 
by the tied corners of the cloth without risk of injuring the 
beauty of the cauliflower. 

TO SOFTEN THE WATER FOR BOILING 
VEGETABLES. 

Use a pinch of bi-carbonate of soda for softening the water 
in which to boil beans, limas, asparagus tips, etc., only when 
the water is very hard, or the peas very old. 



538 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO BOIL CABBAGE. 

Never boil cabbage with corn-beef ; it renders both un- 
wholesome. Boil apart, and serve together, if desired. 

TO BAKE SWEET POTATOES 

In such a way as to make them peel easily, after they 
have been well squeezed in a cloth several times during the 
process of baking, put them in a pan ; cover the pan with a 
damp cloth folded in 4 or 8 ; set back in the corner of the 
range and leave them 15 to 20 minutes. 

TO BOIL PEAS TENDER. 

Observe two things : first, have plenty of water in which 
they can play about ; second, do not cover them. 

TO FRESHEN SALT FISH. 

Lay in cold water, carefully turning the skin side upper- 
most. Otherwise the salt, in melting, will sink into the skin 
and the fish be as salt as ever. By putting the flesh side 
downward, the salt falls to the bottom of the dish. 

PEPPER. 

White pepper is recommended for general use in the 
kitchen in preference to black, as being less unwholesome 
and more palatable. The latter need only be used occa- 
sionally, as directed, and then in most cases, whole. 

TO SKIM SA UCE. 

To do this easily, draw the saucepan to the side of the 

range ; pour in a very few drops of cold water. This causes 

the grease to rise, and it may be removed without trouble. 
23 



STRAY NOTES. 539 

BREAD-CRUMBS. 

These are so valuable in the kitchen, and in such constant 
demand, that it is well to make every few days a supply to 
keep on hand. Put any pieces of stale bread there may be 
in a roasting-pan ; stand it in the open oven until perfectly 
dry, but not at all brown. Roll these out on a board with 
the rolling-pin. Sift them. The very finest, put into a 
separate jar for dipping oysters and croquettes ; others may 
be used for breading meats, baked dishes, etc. The stock of 
bread-crumbs should never be allowed to run out. Another 
excellent way to crumb the bread is to put it, when dried, 
into a coarse, clean cloth and beat it with the potato-masher. 
Sift as directed. 

CRUMBED HARD EGGS. 

These may be used as a variety to sift over sweetbreads or 
chicken, etc., " en caisses," instead of bread-crumbs. When 
the eggs are boiled hard, remove the whites and press the 
yolks through a coarse sieve with the potato-masher. 

DIPPING FOR FRYING. 

It is recommended by some authorities to dip certain arti- 
cles such as fish, first in breadcrumbs, then in egg, and again 
in crumbs. This process makes the dipping cling better. 
The French dip meat-cutlets and chops into crumbs only, if 
perfectly freshly cut ; or into melted butter and then into 
crumbs. For croquettes, where it is necessary sometimes to 
have a firmer covering, they may be dipped twice, always 
alternating, first in the egg, then the crumbs, allowing the 
croquettes to stand some time before the second dipping. 
It is recommended also by the above-mentioned authority, to 
mix a little melted butter with the yolk of egg where this 
latter is used for dipping. In all cases the most important 
point in successful frying, is that the lard be boiling. 



540 GOOD-L/VING. 

TO PRESERVE EGGS. 

Dip in melted suet and pack with the smaller end down- 
ward in salt. Or, make a solution of i gallon of boiling water 
poured over I pound of unslacked lime ; cool thoroughly 
and pour over the eggs which have been packed, small end 
downwards, in jars. Do not use the sediment of the lime- 
water. Keep in a cool, dark place. The object is to stop 
up the pores of the eggs. 

TO CLARIFY DRIPPINGS. 

Select beef-suet for the purpose by preference, but any fat 
trimmings (excepting those of mutton and lamb) may also 
be tried out. Cut the suet into moderate-sized pieces. Put 
these into a crock with a little boiling water. Set the crock 
in a pot of boiling water, and put all in one corner of the 
range, where the suet will melt slowly. The fat may be 
poured off into a clean bowl as it melts, a little more boiling 
water being added. It should always be strained. Next 
day collect all the drippings together and put them as above 
over boiling water. When melted and brought to boiling 
point, strain into a crock and set away. Keep in a cold 
place and use for saut^ing, etc. All fat should be saved from 
soups, etc., and at least once a week be clarified as directed. 
This will be found to be a great economy of butter. 

TO CLEAN DRIED CURRANTS. 

To each quart of dried currants add i cup of flour ; rub 
them well between the hands. This will free them from 
stems, etc. Then turn into a colander and shake out the 
stems ; put them into a pan of cold water and wash thor- 
oughly with both hands. Drain in a colander, letting the 
water wash through them until all the remaining stems are 
carried off. Then spread them on fiat dishes in the mouth 
of the oven or other warm place ; leave until dry ; then use. 



STRAY NOTES. 54 1 

TO STONE RAISINS. 

Throw them into a bowl of boiling water. As soon as 
they are cool enough to handle, stone them in the water and 
throw them into a bowl. 

ORANGE-PEEL FOR CAKES. 

When oranges are abundant, take the skins. Boil I pound 
of these until perfectly tender ; chop them fine ; to I gill of 
the water in which the skins have boiled, add I pound of 
brown sugar and the skins ; boil all together until very thick, 
and put into a wide-mouthed jar to use for flavoring. 

YEAST. 
One cup of yeast is equal to I compressed yeast-cake. 

BREAD. 

A loaf when risen ready for the oven should be at least 
twice the size it was when first put in the bread-pan to rise. 

TO GREASE BREAD-PANS. 

Always grease bread- and cake-pans with lard, not with 
butter, as the latter blackens in long baking. When the 
loaves come out of the oven, stand them on end, not touch- 
ing each other, and cover with a very thin cloth. A thick 
cloth makes the crusts soft and soggy. It only requires suf- 
cient covering to keep off dust and flies. 

TO HEA T THE GRIDDLE FOR GRIDDLE CAKES. 

It should be put on the back of the range several hours 
before using, that it may heat slowly. When ready, bring 
it forward and let it become very hot indeed, but not 
scorching. 



542 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO GREASE THE GRIDDLE. 

Use a piece of fat pork on the end of a fork. Keep it for 
the purpose. 

TO REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE OF AN OVER- 
HEATED OVEN. 

Shut off all draughts and open the dampers. Set a bowl 
of ice-water inside of the door and close it. This will affect 
the temperature sensibly. Should it not suffice, however, 
open the range-cover directly over the oven, leaving a space 
of about f of an inch. This is only suggested as a last 
resource, as cake is rendered less light by the process. 

TO CHECK BOILING SYRUP. 

In preserving, the syrup sometimes begins to rise so rap- 
idly that there is no time to move the heavy kettle aside. 
In such a case throw in about a teaspoonful of cold water 
and it will subside immediately. 

CAKE-BAKING. 

Do not begin to mix your cake until the fire is in perfect 
condition, and you have at hand every thing you may require. 
Use only the best butter, and fine, dry flour. Mix with a 
wooden spoon in a large bowl. Always grease loaf-pans, 
whether for bread or cake, with lard, itot butter, as the latter 
scorches and blackens in long baking. The pan for loaf-cake 
should always be lined with a very thin paper thoroughly 
greased, to keep it from sticking to the bottom, as well as 
from scorching. The paper should be left on the cake until 
the latter is cold, then carefully removed. 

Do not ice cake until cold. For baking drop or other 
small cakes, have at hand 2 or 3 sheets of tin or iron. These 
will be found to be much more convenient for the purpose 
than baking-pans. There are pans made expressly for baking 
lady-fingers and Eclairs. 






STRA V NOTES. 543 

BAKING-PO WDER. 

Royal Baking-Powder is the best for raising cakes, etc. It 
seems to be perfectly harmless, and is certainly stronger than 
the others. The next best is Cleveland's, which is also very 
good, but not as strong. Where 3 teaspoonfuls of Cleve- 
land's are required, 2 of Royal Baking-Powder will be found 
to have quite as much effect. 

In most cases where baking-powder is required, you may 
substitute I teaspoonful of cream of tartar and \ teaspoonful 
of soda for 1 of baking-powder. 

FRUIT PIES. 

In making fruit pies, fasten a narrow band of muslin 
around, covering the edge of the pies. When they are 
baked, remove the muslin. This keeps in the juice and pre- 
vents the besmeared, untidy look which fruit pies generally 
have. 

THE USE OF RUM IN COOKING. 

Rum is an excellent addition, in the way of flavoring, to 
many sweet sauces, cakes, etc. Wherever called for by a 
receipt, always use Jamaica rum ; no other brand is suitable 
for the purpose. 

CROUTONS AS A GARNISH. 

Croutons cut in diamonds about 3 inches long, make a 
nice border for sweetbreads, stewed kidneys, fricassees, etc. 
When cut in cubes 1x2 inches, they make an excellent gar- 
nish for stewed fish, besides being an agreeable addition to 
the dish. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Stewed mushrooms may be served on croutons 3x3 
inches, or in individual silver casseroles, or in china cases. 



544 GOOD-LIVING. 

PASTRY CROUTONS AS A GARNISH. 

Roll out Flaky Crust or Puff Paste £ of an inch thick ; 
cut it in large diamonds, bake, and use to garnish the bor- 
ders of stews, etc. 

TO SERVE CORN. 

There are made at present, in very prettily embroidered 
designs, corn-cloths, which replace most advantageously the 
prevailing custom of serving green corn in a folded table- 
napkin, to keep it hot. 

TO SERVE CROQUETTES, ETC. 

Cut papers may be used not only under cakes and sweets, 
but may, with great advantage, replace the folded table- 
napkin in many cases, especially under croquettes, fried fish, 
etc., in fact, under any thing that is fried dry. They are 
now made at little cost ; the plainer designs are more suita- 
ble for the latter purpose, the lace-bordered ones being gen- 
erally used for sweets. The English make particularly pretty 
designs for the former use. 

TO SERVE FRENCH CHOPS, ETC. 

French chops, leg of mutton, ham, and barbecued hare or 
rabbit should always be served with paper frills to cover the 
ends of the bones. These frills are to be had of various 
sizes, and at small expense. 

TO SERVE WELSH RARE-BITS, ETC. 

Use for all dishes made of cheese, a hot-water plate ; this 
is the only way to accomplish the necessary object of serv- 
ing the above perfectly hot. 

TO REMOVE FRUIT STAINS FROM LINEN. 

Pour boiling water through the spot before washing. Rub. 
If this does not succeed, moisten the spot and hold under it 
a lighted match. The sulphurous gas will cause the stain to 



STRAY NOTES. 545 

disappear, it is said. Should this not be satisfactory, moisten 
the spot, rub it with a little salts-of-lemon. Hang it in the 
sun for a few minutes, then wash out thoroughly. This is 
good for extreme cases, but risks removing the fabric with 
the spot. Peach stains are especially obstinate, but will be 
found to disappear by degrees in the ordinary course of 
time and washing. 

TO REMOVE MILDEW STAINS. 

Soak in milk for 48 hours. Or, rub with lemon-juice and 
salt. The same remark applies to these as to peach stains. 

THE ICE-BOX. 

This is a detail about which many cooks are not suffi- 
ciently nice. If the ice-box is not kept perfectly sweet, the 
articles of food put into it will not be sweet either. It should 
have a very thorough cleaning from top to bottom at least 
once a week in winter, twice a week in summer, the water 
being emptied every day without fail. When the box is 
emptied, and thoroughly cleaned and overhauled, if any 
close smell should be perceived, wet a cloth with vinegar, 
wash over every part, and then leave the doors open until 
dry and well-aired. Allow no corner to be overlooked, if it 
is to be kept in perfect condition. 

Never allow butter to be kept in the same compartment 
of the box with any thing except sweet cream or unopened 
bottles. Nothing so quickly absorbs the taste of other 
things. The presence of lemons or melons will destroy 
the best butter ever made. 

TO PRESERVE ICE IN THE ICE-BOX. 

One of the best ways, when one's supply of ice begins to 
run short, is to wrap the ice in several thicknesses of news- 
paper. Wash well before using. 



546 GOOD-LIVING. 

TO REMOVE RUST FROM STEEL. 

Cover the steel with sweet oil, well rubbed in. After 48 
hours, rub it with finely-powdered, unslacked lime, until the 
rust disappears. 

N. B. — Do not let the lime touch the hands or it will 
burn them. 

REMEDY FOR BURNS. 

Grate or scrape a raw potato ; cover the burned part with 
it. As soon as it becomes hot, renew it ; continue to renew 
at intervals until relieved. Very simple, but most effica- 
cious. Highly recommended. 

TO REMOVE THE UNPLEASANT ODOR FROM 
FEATHER PLLLOWS. 

Hang them in a strong wind on a cloudy day ; do not 
put them in the sun. 

NOTE. 

In towns, all garbage should be burned ; this is by far the 
cleanest and healthiest mode of disposing of it, and is per- 
fectly practicable. 

TO SET THE COLOR LN CALLCOES. 

Dissolve 2 gills of salt in 1 quart of boiling water, and, 
while hot, put the dress into it. Let it remain for several 
hours ; then dry it, after which wash as usual. Powdered 
alum is also used for the same purpose. 

TO REMOVE 1 RON-RUST STAINS FROM LINEN. 

When the article is washed, squeeze lemon-juice upon the 
spots ; cover them with salt ; lay them on the grass in the 
sun all day. Wash again, and in most cases the spots will 
have vanished ; if not, repeat the application. 



STRAY NOTES. 547 

WASH FOR CLEANING GLOVES. 

i quart of deodorized benzine, I drachm of sulphuric ether, 

I drachm of chloroform, 2 drachms of alcohol, 

A little cologne or other perfume. 

Mix together in a bottle and cork tightly. Wash the 
gloves in the preparation as you would wash a handkerchief 
in water. It evaporates very rapidly. Hang the gloves in 
the open air to dry. This mixture is very inflammable. 

WASHING FLUID. 

4 gallons of water, y£ pound of unslacked lime, 

2 pounds of washing soda. 

Mix ; when settled and cold, skim off all scum. Bring 
to a boil ; remove from the fire. Let it settle, and pour off 
the clear fluid into stone jars for use. Or, bottle it, and cork 
tightly. For washing, use I cup of the fluid to I pail of 
water. This resembles Javelle water. 

FURNITURE POLISH. 

4 ounces of gum shellac, I pint of alcohol, 

I piece of gum benzoin, as large as a hickory-nut. 

Mix, and rub on the furniture with a piece of canton-flan- 
nel or cotton-batting. If it is sticky, use a little raw oil. 




INDEX. 



ABRICOTS, croute aux, 485 
Agneau en caisses, 130 
Agneau cotelettes grillees, 128 
" croquettes, 131 
" epigramme, sauce tartare, 129 
" langues d', 129 

" a la tartare, 130 
" sauce tomate, 130 
" poitrine braisee, 128 
" quartier roti, 128 
" rognons, 130 
" rognons grilles, 130 
Alaska, roasted ice-cream, 499 
Allemande sauce, 248 
" ( " No. II., 50 
" a. la Hollandaise, 49 
" " maitre d'hotel, 49 
" sauce tartare, 50 
Almond-paste filling, 420 
Almonds, salted, 344 
Alose farcie, No. I., 49 
Amber consomme, 7 
" pudding, 444 
Amherst ' ' 447 

Ananas, creme glacee a. 1', 495, 497 
" glace a. 1', 502 
" mousse a 1', 496 
" neige a 1', 467 
Anchovy with poached eggs, 360 
" sauce, 250 
" toast, 343 
Angel cake, 395 
Anguilles, frites, 55 
" grillees, 55 

" en matelote, 54 

" a. la poulette, 55 

Apple Charlotte, 483 
" cheese cakes, 418 
" dried, cake, 399 
" dumplings, boiled, 449 
" fritters, 478 
" and orange salad, 488 
" pie, 431 
" pudding, frozen, 497 



Apple pudding, old-fashioned, 449 
" spiced, 436 
" sauce, 262 
" sponge, 486 
" tart, creamed, 435 
" whip, 474 
Apricot, filling, 419 

" toast, 485 
Archangel cake, 395 
Arrowroot, blanc-mange, 531 
jelly, 531 
" souffle, 480 

" soup, 11 

Artichauts, 312 

Artichokes, French or globe, 312 
Jerusalem, baked, 311 
" braised, 311 

" chips, 311 

" a. la creme, 310 

" au gratin, 311 

" puree, 311 

" salad, 329 

Asado (spanish fricassee), 189 
Asparagus, to boil, 287 
" salad, 328 

" soup, 25 

" tips, stewed, 288 

Asperges, en branches, 287 
" creme d', 25 

" en petits-pois, 288 

" " salade, 328 

Aubergine, a la Creole, 297 
' ' farcie, 298 

frite, 298 
Aurora loaf cake, 396 

BACALAO a. la Vizcaina, 58 
Bacon, in batter, 173 
Bacon, and beans, creole, 308 
' ' and eggs, 364 
" fried, No. I,, 173 
" " No. II., 173 

" toasted, 173 
Balls, codfish, 59. 



549 



55o 



INDEX. 



Balls, force-meat (for calf 's - head 
soup), 13 
" force-meat, No. I., 235 

No. II., 235 
" " oyster, 235 

" ham, 169 
" herring, 64 
Baking-powder (note), 543 
Bananas, fried, 487 
Bar, sauce tartare, 47 
" aux tomates, 47 
Batter, fritter, 391 

" " French, 476 

" for fruit fritters, 476 
" pudding, baked, 442 
" very useful, 382 
Bass, cold, sauce tartare, 47 

" stewed with tomatoes, 47 
Bavarian cream, 454 

" chocolate, 455 

coffee, 455 
" orange, 456 
" strawberry, 455 
Bavaroise, 454 

" au cafe, 455 

" " chocolat, 455 

" aux f raises, 455 

" a l'orange, 456 

Bean soup, black, 31 

" " lima and tomato, 39 
" " red, 32 
" " white, 33 
Beans and bacon, creole, 308 
" Boston baked, 307 
" lima, 306 
" red, 306 
" " salad of, 330 
" string, 305 
" white, salad of, 332 
Bearnaise sauce, 252 
Beaulieu pudding, 438 
Becasses, roties, 208 

" sautees, 207 
Becassines, roties No. I., 208 
" t No. II., 208 
" sautees, 207 

Bechamel sauce, 247 
Beef, boiled, 97 
" braised, 96 
" corn, 113 
" " croquettes, 115 
" " hash, 114 
" en daube, 96 
" filet Bearnaise, 101 
" " braised, 99 
" " " aux champignons, 

100 
" " " Madeira sauce, 101 



Beef, filet, braised, Soubise, 101 
" " " aux truffes, 101 

" " larded and roasted, 97 
" " aux tomates farcies, 101 
" filets mignons, broiled, 98 
' ' general directions, 90 
' ' Hamburg steaks, 106 
" juice (for invalids), 529 
' ' kidneys stewed, 109 
" " a la terrapin, no 
" liver, no 

" (note), 534 
" marine, 107 
" a la mode, 94 
" and okra soup, 17 
" ox-tails a la tartare, 108 
" roast, 90 

" " filet larded, 97 
" roll, 108 
" roulette, 108 
" Scotch roll, 106 
" smoked, with cream, 109 
" " tongue, to boil, in 

" soup, 3 

' ' stew with okra, 109 

" tea, delicious, 529 

" plain, 529 

Beef's tongue braised, ill 

" ■ " " with puree of 

potatoes, 112 
" " " with puree of 

spinach, 113 
" " " with sauce pi- 

quante, 113 
" " " with sauce tar- 

tare, 112 
" " " with tomato 

sauce, 113 
" " jellied, 112 

Beefsteak, braised, brown gravy, 103 
broiled, 102 
and onions, No. I., 105 

" " No. II., 105 
pot-pie, 104 
pudding, 104 
a. la Shrewsbury, 103 
Beets, 318 
Beet salads, 330 

" -tops, 304 
Beignets, 477 

" de celeri, 310 

" " cervelles de veau, 156 

" of chicken a la tartare, 187 

" de concombres, 302 

" " f raises, 478 

" d'huitres, 72 

" " panais, 319 

" " peches, 477 



INDEX. 



551 



Beignets, de pommes, 478 
" " risde veau, 147 
" " salsifis, 316 
" souffles, 474, 
Betteraves, 318 
Beurre d'anchois, 250 
" maitre d'hotel, 252 
" noir, 254 
Beverages, etc., 522 
Bewitched veal, 145 
Biftek, 102 

" braise aux huitres, 103 
" aux ognons, 105 
Birds, to truss small (note) 533 
Biscuit, devilled with cheese, 342 
plain, 343 
" ice-cream, 494 
" Maryland, 379 
" soda, 378 
tea, 378 
Bisque, of clams, 37 
" de homard, 36 
" ice-cream, 494 
" of lobster, 36 
" " tomatoes, 30 
Black-bean soup, 31 
Blackberry cordial, 526 

" pudding, baked, 436 

" boiled, 436 
" sweetmeats, 509 

Blackbird-pie, 217 
Black pickle, 516 
Black-walnut candy, 514 
Blanche, sauce, 250 
" soupe, 34 
Blanc-mange, arrowroot, 531 
chocolate, 471 
cocoa-nut cream, 471 
corn-starch, 472 
" fruit, 473 

Blending for soups and sauces, 245 
Bloaters, Yarmouth, 65 
Blonde, sauce, 260 
Bceuf, braise, 96 
" en daube, 96 
" filet pique, 97 
" marine, 107 
" a. la mode, 94 
" en roulette, 108 
Boiled beef, 97 
Bombay toast, 343 
Bonny clabber, 371 
Boston brown hash, 113 
Bouchees a. la reine, etc., 229 
Bouilli, 97 

" salad, 336 
Bouillon fait en une heure, 8 
gilt-edged, 3 



Braise, plain, 93 
Bran bread, 374 
Brandied peaches, 506 
Brandy, icing, 421 

" sauce (pudding), 452 
Bread, 373 

" Boston-brown, 377 
" bran, 374 
" corn, 385 
" gluten, 375 
" graham, 375 
" Italian, 376 
" muffins, 381 
Note I., 373 
" Note II., 373 
541 
" omelet, 355 
" puffs, 376 
rolls, 375 
" rye, 374 
" salt-rising, 376 
Bread-crumb dressing for poultry, 240 
Bread-crumbs fried, 237 
(note), 539 
Bread-pans (note), 541 
Breakfast, cakes, 373 
fish, 61 
" Relishes for, 347 

Broccoli, 292 
Broma, 525 
Brook trout, to fry, 45 
Broth, hasty, 8 

' ' made in 1 hour, 8 
" Scotch, 19 
Brown Betty, 435 

" bread, Boston, 377 
" " ice-cream, 494 

" gravy, 246 
" roux, 243 
" sauce, 246 
Brussels sprouts, 293 
Buckwheat cakes, 388 
Burns, remedy for, 546 
Butter, 369 

Buttermilk, dumplings, 393 
" griddle-cakes, 388 

" muffins, 380 

CABBAGE, to boil (note), 538 
' ' and celery , stewed, 293 

Cabbage, celery, and beet salad, 330 
' stewed, 293 
' stewed a la Flamande, 232 

stuffed, 231 
' summer, 292 
' winter, 292 
Cabillaud, 57 

" filets de, 57 



552 



Cabillaud, grille, 59 
Cabinet pudding, 437 

" cold, 462 

Cafe, Bavaroise au, 455 
" creme au, 469 
" au lait, 522 
" noir, 523 
" parfait au, 494 
Cailles, en compote, 214 
" en gelee, 213 
" grillees, 212 
" roties, 212 
" sautees, 213 
Cake, angel, 395 
" archangel, 395 
" Aurora loaf, 396 
" Charlotte Russe, 415 
" cocoa-nut layer No. I., 402 
" " No. II., 403 

" loaf, 402 
" coffee layer, 408 
" corn, 384 
" dried-apple, 399 
" economical fruit, 399 
" without eggs, 397 
" French, 398 
' ginger, 401 
" gingerbread, 400 

without butter or 
eggs, 401 
hazel-nut, 409 
" hoe, 384 
" hucklebery. 416 
" Johnny, 384 
" kaffee-kuchen, 417 
" lady, 405 

" layer au rhum, or kirsch, 409 
" " No. I., 405 
" No. II., 408 
" manquet, 399 
" molasses, 401 
" orange layer, 408 
" Phila. White Mountain, 403 
" plain, very light, 404 
" pound, 396 
" Savoy, 398 
" sponge No. I., 397 
No. II., 397 
" " layer, 398 

" Troy loaf, 394 
" Virginia batter, 378 
" walnut, 409 
" Washington pie, 416 

wedding, 394 
" wine, 408 
Cake-baking (note), 542 
Cakes, 394 

" apple cheese, 418 



Cakes, buckwheat, 388 
cheese, 417 
cocoa-nut drop, 412 

" macaroons, 407 
cookies, crisp without soda, 412 
cream puffs, 405 

" tea, 393 
crullers, 414 
dainty, 404 
doughnuts, 415 
drop, 413 
eclairs, coffee, 406 
ginger snaps, 412 
griddle, etc., 388 
Henriettas, 416 
jumbles, 41 1 

" old-fashioned, 411 

kisses, 407 
macaroons, 407 
Madeleines, 414 
meringues, 407 
nobby buns, 413 
pound, small, 409 
promises, 410 
queen, 414 
velvet, tea, 393 
Virginia corn, 385 
vitement fait, 411 
walnut wafers, 412 
Calf's-head, boiled, 153 
" . cheese, 154 
" au gratin, 153 

" with mushrooms and to- 

matoes, 154 
(note), 534 
" soup, 13 

" a la terrapin, 155 

Calf's heart, stuffed, 163 
" liver, braised, 158 
" saute, 160 
Calicoes, to set color in (note), 546 
Calves', brains, au beurre noir, 157 
" " fried, 156 

fritters, 156 
" " with macaroni, 157 

" " a la poulette, 156 

" " to prepare, 156 

" kidneys, 163 
Canard, braise, 204 
" salmi de, 203 
" " " aux olives, 206 

' ' saute aux petits pois, 204 
Canards, rotis, 203 

" sauvages, 205 

Candies, 505 

Candy, black-walnut, 514 
" caramels, 514 
" molasses, 513 



Candy, pea-nut, 514 


INL 


> EX - 553 

Charlotte, currant, 483 


" pecan-nut, 514 




" framboises, 484 


Caper sauce, 250 




" gooseberry, 484 


Capon, roast, 200 




" de groseille, 483 


' ' with truffles, 200 




" Parisienne, 458 


Caramel, carrots, 318 




pie-plant, 483 


" custard, 469 




" de pommes, 483 


" ice-cream, 495 




" raspberry, 484 


" sauce (pudding), 451 




" russe, No. I., 457 


" sweet potatoes, 277 




" No. II., 458 


Caramels, 514 




" " cake, 415 


Carrots, 316 




Chaud-froid de volaille, 193 


" caramel, 318 




Cheese cakes, 417 


" fricasseed, 317 






' " apple, 418 


" a la Lyonnaise, 317 






' cottage, 371 


" sauted, 317 






' fondu, 341 


Catsup, cucumber, 520 






' omelet, 356 


" tomato, No. I., 520 






' salad, 342 


" " No. II., 521 






' straws, 341 


Cauliflower, 291 




" toasted, 341 


" au gratin, 291 




Cherries preserved in syrup,. 508 


(note), 537 




Cherry, charlotte, 483 


" pickle, 519 




" pudding, 442 


" salad, 329 




" sweetmeats, 510 


" sauce, 251 




" toast, 484 


" tomato sauce, 292 




Chestnut dressing, No. I., 239 


Celeri, beignets de, 310 




" " No. II., 239 


" a. la creme, 310 




" puree, 308 


" -rave, 310 




" sauce, 259 


Celeriac, 310 




Chevreuil, civet de, 223 


Celery, cabbage and beets salad 


330 


" cuissot No. I., 220 


" doucette " " " 


33o 


" No. II., 221 


" fritters, 310 




" ragout de, 222 


" au jus, 309 




" selle de, 220 


" mayonnaise, 331 




Chicken, asado (Spanish fricassee), 189 


" pickle, 516 




" beignets a, la Tartare, 187 


" -root, 310 




" boiled with white sauce, 195 


" salad, 330 




" braised with carrots, 180 


" sauce, 249 




" " " Jerusalem arti- 


" stewed, 310 




chokes, 180 


Cervelles de veau, beignets, 156 




" " " macaroni, 179 


" " " au beurre noir, 157 


" broiled, 179 


" " " f rites, 156 




" and celery salad, 335 


" " " a la poulette, 
" " " sautees a la 


156 


" cock-a-leekie, 196 


Mila- 


" consomme, 8 


naise, 157 




" croquettes No. I., 192 


Champignons, a la Bordelaise, 286 


" " plain, No. II., 193 


coquilles de, 287 




" curry, 184 


grilles, 284 




" dainty fricassee, 183 


sauce, 254 




" devilled, 194 


sautes a. la creme 


285 


" en caisses, 190 


" " l'huile, 


284 


fillets of, 185 


" nature, 285 


Chicken, fricassee, 182 


Chapon, roti, 200 




" " sauce tomate, 190 


" truffe, 200 




" gombo, 23 


Charlotte, apple, 483 




" " file, 21 


" de cerises, 483 




" jellied, 193 


" cherry, 483 






jelly, 194 



554 



INDEX. 



Chicken, with lettuce, 334 
" livers saute, 181 
" Maryland, with corn dod- 
gers, 188 
" en matelote, 187 
" and oyster pie, 227 
" pate jellied, 191 

pebre (Spanish), 188 
" to preserve (note) 535 
" a la reine, 189 
" with rice and tomatoes, 190 
" roast, 176 
" salad, 335 

" with lettuce, 334 
" saute with mushrooms, 186 
" " " peas, 185 

" smothered, 178 

souffle No. I., 182 
" No. II., 186 
" Spanish, 181 
" stew with dumplings, 184 
" " " vegetables, 183 

" and sweetbread croquettes, 

228 
" with terrapin sauce, 195 
" a la terrapin, 195 
" with tomatoes, 194 
" white and tender, to make, 
536 
Chickory Puree, 304 
" salad, 327 

Chicoree, puree de, 304 
" salade de, 327 

" sauvage, saladede, 327 

Chocolate, 524 

" Bavarian cream, 455 

" blanc-mange, 471 

" custard, 470 

" filling, 419 

" ice-cream, 493 

" icing, 419 

" pudding, 444 

Chopping machine (note), 532 
Chops, lobster, 80 

" to serve French (note), 544 
Chou, 292 
Chou-fleur, 291 

" au gratin, 291 

" en salade, 329 

" sauce, 251 

" sauce tomate, 292 

Choux de Bruxelles, 293 
" a la creme, 405 
" farcis, 231 

" " a. la Flamande, 232 

Chowder, clam, No. I., 86 
" No. II., 87 
Citron ice, 502 



Citron, preserved (see watermelon), 507 
Civet de chevreuil, 223 
Clam chowder No. I., 86 
No. II., 87 
" fritters, 85 
" stew, 85 
Clams, bisque of, 37 
" with cream, 85 
" farcied, 85 
" to open, 37 and 85 

raw, 85 
" roast, 86 
Claret, mulled, 526 
Clearing soups, 6 
Cochon de lait, 164 
Cock-a-leekie, 196 
Cocoa, 525 

" iced, as a summer drink, 525 
Cocoa-nut, cream blanc-mange, 471 
drops, 412 
filling, 419 
layer cake No. I., 402 

" " No. II., 403 
loaf ' ' 402 
macaroons, 407 
pudding No. I., 443 
" No. II., 443 
Cod, boiled, 57 
" broiled, 59 

" salt, a la bonne femme, 57 
" steaks, 57 
Codfish balls, 59 

" croquettes, 58 
Coeur de veau farci, 163 
Coffee, breakfast, drip, 522 
" " boiled, 523 

" " after-dinner, drip, 

523 
" Bavarian cream, 455 
" cream, 459 
" eclairs, 406 
" filling, 420 

" ice-cream, Philadelphia, 493 
" icing, 421 
" layer cake, 408 
Cold bass, sauce tartare, 47 
" cabinet pudding, 462 
" custard, 470 
" slaw, 331 
" " dressing, 325 
" " old-fashioned, 331 
Coloring for soups, 6, 245 
Concombres, beignets de, 302 
" a la creme, 299 

farcis, 300 
frits, 300 
" a la maitre d'hotel, 301 

" " poulette, 301 



INDEX. 



555 



Concombres, ragout de, 302 


Crecy 


soup No. II., 26 


" en salade, 301 


Cream 


, Bavarian, 454 


" sauce, 262 


" 


" chocolate, 455 


Consomme, I, 


" 


" coffee, 455 




' amber, 7 


" 


" orange, 456 




' chicken, 8 


" 


" strawberry, 455 




' dore, 7 


" 


of chicken (see veal), 141 




' with macaroni, 9 


" 


coffee, 459 




aux ceufs poches, 10 


" 


icing, 422 




' aux pates d'ltalie, 11 


" 


lamb (see veal), 141 




' with poached eggs, 10 


" 


muffins, 381 




' a la royale, 8 


" 


mutton (see veal), 141 




' au vermicelle, 11 


" 


orange, 459 


de volaille, 8 


" 


puffs, 405 


Cookery for Invalids, 529 


" 


sauce, 247 


Cookies, crisp, without soda, 412 


" 


short-cake, 379 


Coquettes, 475 


" 


snow, 456 


Coquilles, de champignons, 287 


" 


Spanish, 460 


" d'huitres, 75 


" 


tea-cakes, 393 


" de salsifis, 316 


" 


veal, 141 


Cordial, blackberry, 526 


" 


velvet, 460 


" kiimmel, 528 


" 


whipped, 457 


Corn, to boil, 296 


Creme 


468 


" bread, 385 


" 


d'asperges, 25 


" cake, 384 


" 


bachique, 469 


" cake, Virginia, 385 


" 


au cafe, 469 


" crust, Alabama, 385 


" 


" caramel, 469 


" drops, 385 


" 


" chocolat, etc., 470 


" " plain, 386 


" 


choux a la, 405 


" fritters, 297 


" 


fouettee, 457 


" oysters, 296 


" 


frite, 476 


" pudding, 295, 296 


" 


glacee a l'ananas, 495, 497 


" rolls, delicate, 386 


" 


" au caramel, 495 


" salad, 327 


" 


" " chocolat, 493 


" to serve (note), 544 


" 


" a la f raise, 496 


Corn-beef, 113 


" 


" " vanille, 491, 492 


" croquettes, 115 


" 


Italienne, 468 


" hash, 114 


" 


de riz, 28 


Cornichous, sauce, 249 


" 


veloutee, 460 


Corn-meal griddle cakes, 389 


Creole ratatouille, 142 


Corn-starch blanc-mange, 472 


Crepes, 482 


Cottage, cheese, 371 


Crevettes, salade de, 339 


" pudding, 441 


Croquettes, chicken, No. I., 192 


Coulis de poisson, 38 . 


" 


" plain, No. II. 


Court bouillon, to boil fish in, 43 




193 


" " New Orleans, 66 


" 


' ' and sweetbread 


" " Shrewsbury, 65 




228 


Crab, gumbo No. I., 23 


" 


codfish, 58 


" " No. II., 39 


" 


corn-beef, 115 


" salad, 83 


" 


lamb, 131 


Crabs, devilled, 82 


" 


mutton, 124 


" farcied, 82 


" 


potato, 270 


hard-shell, boiled, 82 


" 


salmon, 56 


soft-shell, fried, 82 


" 


de saumon, 56 


Cranberry pie, 431 


" 


to serve, (note), 544 


" sauce, 263 


" 


shad-roe, 51 


tart, 433 


" 


sweetbread, 151 


Crecy 


soup No. I., 26 


" 


veal, 139 



556 



INDEX. 



Croquettes, veal and ham, 139 

" de volaille No. I., 192 

" No. II., 193 
Westphalia, 168 
Croiite, aux abricots, 485 
" " cerises, 484 
" " framboises, 485 
" -au-pot, 12 
Croutons, No. I., 236 
" No. II., 236 
" as a garnish (note), 543 
" fancy, 237 
" pastry, 241 

" as a garnish (note), 
544 
Crullers, 414 
Crumpets, 382 
Cucumber, catsup, 520 
" fritters, 302 

" Sauce, 262 
Cucumbers, dressed, 301 
fried, 300 
" a la maitre d'hotel, 301 

" and onion salad, 328 

" pickled, 519 

" a la poulette, 301 

" ragout of, with onions, 

302 
" salad, 301 

" stewed, 299 

" stuffed, 300 

Currant Charlotte, 483 
jelly, 511 
pie, 431 
" sherbet, 503 
" sweetmeats, 510 
" wine, 527 
Currants, to clean dried, 540 
Curried eggs, 362 
" lamb, 128 
" lobster, 81 
" mutton, 124 
" oysters, 76 
Curry, chicken, 184 

" mutton, brown, 122 
Custard, baked coffee, 469 
" boiled, 468 
" cold, 470 
" caramel, 469 
" chocolate and other baked, 

470 
" filling, 421 
" Italian, 468 

pie, 429 
" sauce (pudding), 451 
Custards, 470 
Cutlets, mutton, 121 

" shad, a l'oseille, 49 



DAINTY cakes, 404 
" chicken fricassee, 183 
Dandelions, 304 
Dandelion salad, 327 
Date pudding, 449 
Demidoff salad, 333 
Desserts, 454 
Devil sauce, 249 
Devilled biscuits, 342 

" plain, 343 
" chicken, 194 

" en caisses, 190 
" crabs, 82 
" halibut, 60 
lobster, 81 
" scallops, 84 
Diable, sauce, 249 
Dinde, aux champignons, 200 
" en daube, 198 
" rotie, 196 
" sauce blanche, 199 
" truffee, 199 
Dindonneau, 197 

Dinner, Order of Service of a, 345 
Dipping for frying (note), 539 
Directions, for fish, 42 

" freezing ice-cream, 490 
" frying, 40 

" keeping meats warm, 89 
" re-heating meats, 89 
" sauces, 243 
" soups, I 
Doucette, salad, 327 

" celery and beets salad, 330 
Doughnuts, 415 

Dressing, bread-crumb, for poultry, 240 
" " cold slaw, 325 

" chestnut No. I., 239 
No. II., 239 
" French, salad, 326 
" mustard, 325 
" mushroom, 239 

' ' oyster, for boiled poultry, 240 

" potato, 239 
" sage, for geese, 239 

" " poultry, geese, etc., 
240 
' ' sausage, for turkey, etc. , 239, 

241 
" sweet-herb, for veal, 240 
" " potato, for turkey, 240 

" Sydney Smith's salad, 324 
Drippings, to clarify (note), 540 
Drop cakes, 413 
Drops, cocoa-nut, 412 
corn, 385 
" " plain, 386 

Duck, saute witli green peas, 204 



INDEX. 



557 



Duck, tame, 203 

" braised, 204 
" salmi of, 203 
wild, 205 
" salmi with olives, 207 
" jelly sauce, 206 
Dumplings, 392 

" apple, boiled, 449 

" buttermilk, 393 

" suet, 392 

ECLAIRS au cafe, 406 
Economical, fruit cake, 399 
Economical maigre soup, 34 

" soup, 16 

Eels, broiled, 55 

" fried, 55 

" en matelote, 54 

" a. la poulette, 55 

" stewed, 54 
Egg and wine, 525 

" -balls, 235 

" -beaters (note), 532 

" -icing, 422 

" -fondu, 364 

" -nogg, 525 

" -plant, baked with bread-crumbs, 
297 
fried, 298 
stuffed, 298 
Eggs, ( 35o 

" a. l'Andalouse, 367 

" " l'Aurore, 361 

' ' and bacon, 364 

" baked, 359 

" au beurre noir, 360 

" to boil, 358 

" boiled, hard, 359 

' ' cake without, 399 

" en caisses, 365 

" with celery, 368 

" curried, 362 

" fricasseed, 366 

" fried, 361 

" ham and, 361 

" hard-boiled, 359 

" " " salad, 337 

" " crumbed (note), 539 

' ' en matelote, 363 

' ' with mushrooms, 364 

" in a nest, 366 

" omelet, bread, 355 

" " cheese, 356 

" " chicken livers, 367 

" " Creole, 353 

" " fine herbs, 355 

" " ham, 352 

" " kidney, 357 



i omelet, mushroom, 357 
" onion, 356 
" oyster, 353 
" parsley, 354 
" plain, 351 

potato, 355 
" rum, 357 
" sardine, 354 
" Spanish, 356 
" sweetmeats, 358 
" tomato, 353 
" with tomato sauce, 352 

truffle, 357 
" whitebait, 354 
to poach (note), 537 
poached, 360 

1 ' with anchovy toast, 360 

aux pointes d'asperges, 364 
to preserve (note\ 540 
scrambled, 362 
smoked beef and, 358 
stirred, 362 

" a. l'lndienne, 365 
' ' with mushrooms, 364 
' ' with tomatoes, 363 
stuffed, mayonnaise sauce, 366 
sur le plat, 350 
" " " with asparagus tips, 

350 
" " " " ham, 350 
" " " " tomato sauce, 

351 
with tomato sauce, 368 
a. la tripe, 351 
truffled au jus, 363 
a. la Valencienne, 367 
Eglefin, grille, 59 

en matelote, 60 
Endives, puree, 304 

salad of, 326 
English, mustard, to mix, 241 
pigeon pie, 217, 
plum-pudding, 447 
Eperlans, frits, 52 
grilles, 52 

sauce mayonnaise, 53 
Epigram of lamb, 129 
Epinards, puree a ia creme, 303 

" au jus, 302 
Escarole salad, 327 
Espagnole sauce, 246 

FANCY jelly, 466 
Farina, fruit, 479 
Farina soup, 12 
Feather cakes, 391 

pillows, to remove odor from, 
546 



553 



INDEX. 



Fetticus salad, 327 
Fig pudding, 449 
Filet, Bearnaise, 101 
' ' of beef braised, 99 
' ' de bceuf braise, 99 
" " pique, 97 
" braise aux champignons, 100 
" " sauce madere, 101 

" " a la Soubise, 10 

" " aux tomates farcies, 101 

" " " truffes, 101 

Filets d'alose a l'oseille, 49 
" de cabillaud, 57 
" mignons grilles, 98 
" de poisson, 53 
" " sole a la maitre d'hotel, 63 
" " " Orly, 62 
Fillet of veal braised, 134 

" " " Soubise sauce, 134 

" " stuffed and roasted, 133 
Fillets of chicken, 185 

" " sole a la Orly, 62 
Filling, almond-paste, 420 
" apricot, 419 
" chocolate, 419 
" cocoa-nut, 419 
" coffee, 420 
" custard, 421 
" ice-cream, 421 
" lemon custard, 420 
" orange, 420 
" peach, 419 
Fillings for cakes, 419 
Finnan haddie, 64 
Fish, 42 
" bacalao a la Vizcaina, 58 
" to boil, No. I., 42 
" " " No. II., 42 
" boiled au court bouillon, 43 
" to boil trout of 1 pound, 44 
" to broil, 44 
" bass, cold, sauce Tartare, 47 

" stewed with tomatoes, 47 
" breakfast, 61 
" cod, boiled, 57 
" " salt, a la bonne femme, 57 
" " steaks, 57 
" " balls, 59 
" " broiled, 59 
" " croquettes, 58 
" cutlets, 53 
" a la Delmonico, 60 
" directions, 42 
" eels, broiled, 55 

" fried, 55 
" " en matelote, 54 
" " a la poulette, 55 
" " stewed, 54 



Fish, Finnan haddie, 64 

frogs, fricassee, brown, 67 
" white, 67 
fried, 67 
" " in batter, 66 
" a la poulette, 67 
to fry, 44 

' ' brook trout and small fish, 
45 
haddock, broiled, 59 
" stewed, 60 
halibut, baked a la Creole, 60 
" devilled, 60 
" steak a la Flamande, 59 
herring balls, 64 
" kippered, 65 
" Potomac, 65 
kippered herring, 65 
mock turbot a la creme, 61 
New Orleans court bouillon, 66 
Potomac herring, 65 
pudding (Scandinavian), 53 
sardine omelet, 370 
salad, 47 

salmon, boiled, 56 
" croquettes, 56 
steaks, 56 
salt mackerel, broiled, 64 

" to freshen, 64 
shad, baked No. I., 49 
" No. II., 50 
" boiled, 49 

" " cold, sauce Tar- 

tare, 50 
" cutlets a l'oseille, 49 
" planked, 50 
" pickled, 51 
" soused, 51 
shad-roe croquettes, 51 
Shrewsbury court bouillon, 65 
smelts, baked, 52 
" broiled, 52 

fried, 52 
" mayonnaise, 53 
" stewed, 53 
sole a. l'Aurore, 63 
" fillets a la Orly, 62 
" " " " maitre d'hotel, 63 
" fried, 62 
soup, 39 
to steam, 44 
stewed en matelote, 45 
stock, 38 

stuffed and baked, 46 
whitebait, 48 

" omelet, 370 
Yarmouth bloaters, 65 
Flaky pie-crust, 424 



INDEX. 



559 



Flannel cakes, quick, 390 
" " raised, 390 

Flour-ball for infants' food, 530 
Foie de veau, braise, 158 
" " " grille, 161 
" " " roti, 159 
" " " saute, 160 
" " " " aux cornichons, 

160 
Foies de volailles sautes, 181 
Fondu, egg, 341 

" au fromage, 364 
Force-meat balls No. I., 235 
" No. II., 235 
" ham, 238 

" oyster, 235 

Force-meats, garnishes, etc., 233 
Four-and-twenty-blackbird pie, 217 
Fourchette, 161 
Fowl, to truss a, 176 
Fraise, glace a la, 501 
Fraises, Bavaroise aux, 455 
" glacees, 501 
" " a. la creme, 496 

Framboise, glace a la, 501 
Framboises, charlotte de, 484 

" croute aux, 485 

Freezer, ice-cream (note), 532 
Freezing, directions for ice-creams, 490 
French, batter, 476 
" cake, 398 
" dressing, 326 
" noodle soup, 10 
Freshen salt fish, to, 64 
Friar's omelet, 485 
Fricandeau of veal, 134 
Fricassee, brown, of frogs, 67 
" chicken, 183 

" tomato sauce, 190 
" dainty chicken, 182 
" white, of frogs, 67 
Fricasseed eggs, 366 
Fried bread-crumbs, 237 

" parsley, 241 
Fritter batter, 391 

" " French, 476 

" " for fruit, 476 

Fritters, apple, 478 

" calf's brains, 156 

" celery, 310 

" chicken, a la Tartare, 187 

clam, 85 
" corn, 297 
" cucumber, 302 
" parsnips, 319 
" peach, 477 
plain, 477 
" salsify, 316 



Fritters, strawberry, 478 
" sweetbread, 147 
Frogs, fricassee, brown, 67 
" white, 67 
" fried, 67 
" " in batter, 66 

" a la poulette, 67 
Fromage, de cochon, 169 

" " tete de veau, 154 

Frozen apple-pudding, 497 
" fruit " 499 

" peaches, 501 

" and cream, 495 
" pine-apple cream, 495 
" punch, 503 
" strawberries, 501 
" " and cream, 496 

Fruit, blanc-mange, 473 
" farina, 479 

fritters, batter for, 476 
" pies (note), 543 
" -pudding, frozen, 499 
' ' stains, to remove (note), 544 
Fruits, macedoine of, 466 
Fry fish, to, 44 
Frying, basket (note), 532 

" general directions for, 40 
Furniture polish (note), 547 

GALANTINE de veau, 140 
Galette, 427 
Game, 205 

" to clean, 175 
" cold (note), 535 
" pate, jellied, 223 
Garnishes, 233 

" for clear soup, 236 
Gateau de Savoie, 398 
Gelatine pudding, 461 
Gelbe Speise, 462 
Gelee, au cafe, 459 
" " citron, 464 
" a. la creme d'orange, 459 
" fantaisie, 466 
' ' a l'orange, 463 
" de tapioca, 473 
" au vin de madere, 465 
Gems, Graham, 388 
German noodle soup, 9 
Gherkins, pickled, 519 
Giblet soup, 21 
Gilt-edged bouillon, 3 
Ginger-beer, 526 
" -bread, 400 
" " without eggs or butter, 

401 
" -cake, 401 
" -snaps, 412 



560 INDEX. 




Ginger souffle, 480 


Gumbo, crab No. I., 23 




Glace, 242 


" No. II., 39 




" a l'ananas, 502 


" okra, 22 




" au citron, 500 


" oyster, 23 




a la f raise, 501, 503 






" " framboise, 501 


T TADDOCK, broiled, 59 
J. \_ " stewed, 60 




" groseille, 503 




" a l'orange, 502 


Halibut, baked a la creole, 60 




Glaze, 242 


" devilled, 60 




Gloves, wash for cleaning (note), 547 


steak a la Flamande, 


59 


Gluten bread, 375 


Ham balls, 169 




Golden buck, 340 


" to boil, 166 




" sauce (pudding), 450 


" bone (note), 535 




Gombo aux crabes No. I., 23 


" broiled, 167 




" " No. II., 39 


" and eggs, 361 




fevi, 22 


" force-meat, 238 




file, 21 


" fried, 167 




aux huitres, 23 


" lunch, 167 




Gombos, 314 


" puffs, 168 




" sautes, 314 


" souffle, 168 




salade de, 329 


" toast for breakfast, 167 




Good plain paste, 425 


Hamburg steaks, 106 




Goose, roast, 201 


Hard-egg sauce, 250 




Gooseberry charlotte, 484 


" sauce (pudding), 452 




Graham, bread, 375 


" " plain (pudding), 452 


" fingers and thumbs, 379 


Hare, barbecued, 218 




gems, 388 


" au chasseur, 219 




" wafers, 380 


" potted, 220 




Grape, jelly, 511 


Haricots verts, 305 




" sweetmeats, 510 


" " en salade, 328 




Gravy, brown, 246 


Hash, baked in a mould, 113 




Green pea soup, 27 




' Boston brown, 113 




" tomato pickles, 515 




' chicken (see corn-beef), 


114 


" soy, 515 




' corn-beef, 114 




" " sweet pickles, 519 




' lamb (see corn-beef), 


114 


Grenouilles, frites, 67 




' mutton " " 


114 


" a la poulette, 67 




' pickle, 518 




Griddle, to grease (note), 542 




' turkey (see corn-beef), 


114 


to heat " 541 


" veal " " 


114 


" cakes, 388 


Hasty broth, 8 




" " buckwheat, 388 


Hazel-nut cake, 409 




" buttermilk, 388 


Head-cheese, 169 




" " corn-meal, 389 


Heart, calf's, stuffed, 163 




" " feather, 391 


Henriettas, 416 




" " hominy, 390 


Herb, sweet, dressing for veal, 


240 


" " oat-meal, 389 


Herring balls, 64 




" " quick flannel, 390 


" kippered, 65 




" " raised " 390 


" Potomac, 65 




" " rice, 389 


Hoe-cake, 384 




" " stale-bread, 39/ 


Hollandaise sauce, 255 




Groseille, glace a la, 503 


Homard, a l'Americaine, 79 




Groseilles, charlotte de, 483 


" cotelettes de, 80 




Grouse, broiled, 207 


a la diable, 81 




" roast, 207 


" farci, 81 




Guinea-fowl, braised, 201 


" au kari, 81 




" broiled, 201 


" a la Newberg, 80 




" roast, 200 


" sauce, 250 




Gumbo, chicken, 23 


He 


miny griddle-cakes, 390 





INDEX. 



5 6l 



Horse-radish sauce, 260 
Huckleberry, cake, 416 

pudding, 437 
" roly-poly, 441 

Huitres, 70 

" beignets, d', 72 

" en brochette, 77 

" " coquilles, 75 
a. la diable, 71 

" frites, 70 

" en hachis, 77 

" au kari, 76 

" " macaroni, 78 

" " parmesan, 73 

" a la poulette, 72 

" roties, 71 

" sauce aux, 251 

" soupe " 38 

ICE, citron, 502 
" currant sherbet, 503 
Ice, frozen peaches, 501 
" " punch, 503 
" " strawberries, 501 
" lemon-water, 500 
" orange sherbet, 502 
" pine-apple sherbet, 502 
' ' to preserve (note), 545 
■" raspberry, 501 
" Roman punch, 503 
" strawberry, 501 
" " sherbet, 503 

Ice-box (note) 545 
Ice-cream, Alaska, roasted, 499 
biscuit, 494 
bisque, 494 
brown-bread, 494 
cafe, parfait au, 494 
caramel, 495 
chocolate, 493 
coffee (Phila.), 493 
filling, 421 
freezer (note), 532 
frozen apple pudding, 497 
" fruit " 499 

" peaches and cream, 

495 
' ' pine-apple cream, 

495 
' ' strawberries and 
cream, 496 
general directions for 

freezing, 490 
iced pudding, 500 
mousse a l'ananas, 496 
Nesselrode pudding 498 
pine-apple, 497 
plum-pudding glace, 498 



Ice-cream, strawberry, 496 
vanilla, 492 
vanilla, with eggs, 491 
" " Phila., 491 

water-ices, etc., 490 
Icing, brandy, 421 
" coffee, 421 
" chocolate, 419 
" cream, 422 
" egg, 422 
" kirsch, 421 
" lemon, 421 
" orange, 422 
" rum, 421 
" wine, 422 
Icings for cakes, 419 
Indian-meal gruel, 531 
" pickle 517 
pudding, 444 

" old-fashioned, 445 
" sandwiches, 343 
Irish stew, 125 

Iron-rust stains, to remove (note), 546 
Italian, bread, 376 
" custard, 468 
" pastes, soup, with, 11 

J AMBON, 166 
croquettes a la West- 
phalie, 168 
Jambon, frit, 167 
" grille, 167 
" souffle au, 168 
Jamboree, 513 
Jellied chicken, 193 
" game pate, 223 
" meat loaf, 230 
" quail (see compote), 213 
" tongue, in 
" veal, 145 
Jellies, etc., 454 
Jelly, chicken, 194 
" currant, 511 
" fancy, 466 
" grape, 51 1 
" lemon, 464 
" orange, 463 
" " in baskets, 463 

' ' sauce for venison, 263 
" tapioca, 473 
" wine, 465 
Jerusalem artichokes, baked, 311 
" braised, 311 

" chips, 311 

" a. la creme, 310 

" au gratin, 311 

" puree of, 311 

" salad " 329 



562 



INDEX. 



Jim Crow, 438 
Johnny-cake, 384 
Jolly boys, 478 
Julienne soup, 12 

" potatoes, 276 
Jumbles, 411 

" old-fashioned, 411 
Junket, 470 
Jus, 246 

KAFFEE-KUCHEN, 417 
Kale, 304 
Keeping meats warm, 89 
Kidney omelet, 357 
Kidneys, breaded, 127 

" en brochette, 127 

" calves' 163 

" lamb, 130 

" stewed, 109 

" a la terrapin, no 
Kippered herring, 65 
Kirsch icing, 421 
Kisselle, 473 
Kisses, 407 

Knuckle of veal browned, 136 
Kummel cordial, 528 
Kumyss, 530 

LADY cake, 405 
Laitues, au jus, 305 
Laitues, puree de, 305 

" salade, 326 
Lamb, breast, braised, 128 
" chops, broiled, 128 
" croquettes, 131 
" curried, 128 
Lamb, cutlets, 121 

" devilled en caisses, 130 
" epigram, sauce Tartare, 129 
fries, 131 

kidneys, for breakfast, 130 
" broiled, 130 
" roast, mint sauce, 128 
Lambs' tongues, stewed, 129 

" a la Tartare, 130 

" tomato sauce, 130 

Langue de bceuf braisee, III 

puree d'epi- 

nards, 113 
puree pommes 
de terre, 112 
sauce piquante, 

113 
sauce Tartare, 

112 
sauce tomate, 
113 
fumee, III 



Langue de bceuf en gelee, 112 
Lapin au chasseur, 219 
" en compote, 220 
" roti, 218 
Laplanders, 387 
Larding pork (note), 534 
Larks, 208 

Layer-cake, cocoa-nut No. L, 402 
" " No. II., 403 

" coffee, 408 

" au kirsch, 409 

No. I., 405 
No. II., 408 
" orange, 408 

" au rhum, 409 

" sponge, 398 

Legumes, puree de, 36 
Lemon-brandy, 527 

" custard, filling, 420 

" pie, old-fashioned, 428 
" icing, 421 
jelly, 464 
" pie, 432 

" pudding, baked No. I., 445 
" No. II., 446 
" boiled, 446 
" sauce (pudding), 452 
" water ice, 500 
Lentil, salad, 334 

" soup, 32 
Lentils, puree of, 307 

" saute, 308 
Lettuce, au jus, 305 
" puree of, 305 
" salad, 326 
" soup, 17 
Liaison, 245 
Lievre, au chasseur, 219 
" en compote, 220 
" roti, 218 
Lima beans, 306 

" " and tomato soup, 39 

Liver and bacon, 158 
" beef's, no 

braised, 158 
" broiled, 161 
" roasted, 159 
" saute, 160 

" " with pickle sauce, 160 
" smothered in onions, 160 
Loaf, meat, 144 
Lobster bisque, 36 
to boil, 78 
" broiled a l'Americaine, 79 
" chops, 80 
" curry, 81 

devilled, 81 
" to dress, cold, 79 



INDEX. 



563 



Lobster, farcied, 81 

" mayonnaise, 337 

" a la Newberg, 80 

" sauce, 250 

" to select (note), 534 
Lyonnaise potatoes, 268 

MACARONI, boiled, 225 
" with cheese, 225 

Macaroni, consomme with, 9 
" au gratin, 226 
" a l'ltalienne, 225 
" " Milanaise, 224 

" timbale of, 224 
" and tomato soup, 24 
" soup, 37 

" and various entrees, 224 
Macaroons, 407 

" cocoa-nut, 407 

Macedoine of fruits, 466 
Mackerel, salt, broiled, 64 
Madeira sauce, 254 
Madeleines, 414 
Maigre soup, economical, 34 
• " " savory, 38 

" " summer, 34 

" " white, 34 

" soupe, 35 
Maitre d'hotel butter, 252 
" " sauce, 252 

Manquet, 399 
Marmalade, peach, 512 

" pine-apple, 512 

Marrons, puree de, 380 
" sauce aux, 259 
Maryland, biscuit, 379 

' ' chicken with corn dodgers, 

188 
" wine sauce (pudding), 453 

Matelote, eggs en, 363 
" de poisson, 45 
" sauce, 262 
' ' stewed fish en, 45 
Mayonnaise, celery, 331 

" de homard, 337 

" lobster, 337 

" de ris de veau, 336 

" salmon with, 338 

" of salmon, 338 

" de saumon, 338 

" sauce, 261, 324 

' ' of sweetbreads, 336 

" tomato, 332 

" de veau, 335 

" volaille, 334 
Meat, cold (note), 535 
" loaf, 144 
" " jellied, 230 



Meat, sausages for breakfast, 232 
scalloped with tomatoes, 231 
" tough, to make tender (note), 536 
Meats, to be served cold (note), 536 
" " keep warm, 89 
" " re-heat, 89 
" " thaw frozen (note), 535 
" Time-table for Cooking, 88 
Meringues, 407 
Mildew, to remove (note), 545 
Milk soup, 28 
Mince pie No. I., 426 

" " No. II., 427 
Mint sauce, 260 
Minute pudding, 442 
Mock terrapin, 159 

' ' turbot a la creme, 61 
" turtle soup No. I., 14 
" No. II., 15 
Molasses cake, 401, 
" candy, 513 
Morue a. la bonne femme, 57 
Mousse, a l'ananas, 496 
" aux peches, 486 
" " pommes, 486 

Mouton, cotelettesde, grilles, 120 

" " a la jardiniere, 
123 
" " " panees, 121 

" " enpapillotes,l22 

" croquettes de, 124 
" filet de, roti, 119 
" gig ot > bouilli aux capres, iftQ 
" " braise aux navets, 119 

" " roti, 117 

" haricot de, 125 
" au kari, 124 
" " macaroni, 126 

" poitrine de, au gratin, 120 
" rognonsde,enbrochette,i27 
" " " panes, 127 

" selle de, rotie, 118 
Muffins, bread, 381 

" buttermilk, 380 
" cream, 381 
" Kalamazoo, 381 
" plain, 380 

' ' very useful batter for, 382 
Mulled claret, 525 
Mulligatawny soup, 20 
Mushroom dressing, 239 
" omelet, 357 

" sauce, 254 

Mushrooms, baked, 286 

" a la bordelaise, 286 

" broiled, 284 

" canned, stewed, 285 

" fried, 284 



564 



Mushrooms, general remarks, 283 
" scalloped, 287 

" stewed, with cream, 285 

" plain, 285 
(note), 543 
Mustard dressing, 325 

" English, to mix, 241 

Mutton, 116 

breast au gratin, 120 
browned curry, 122 
chops, braised, 123 
" breaded, 121 
" broiled, 120 
" en papillotes, 122 
croquettes, 124 
curried, 124 
curry, browned, 122 
cutlets, 121 
general remarks, 116 
Irish stew, 125 
kidneys, breaded, 127 

" en brochette, 127 
leg, boiled, 119 
" braised, 119 
" roast, 117 
loin, " 119 

and macaroni, browned, 126 
roll, 126 

saddle, roast, 118 
shepherd's pie, 126 
turcsicus, 125 

NASTURTIUMS, pickled, 517 
Navets a la creme, 321 
Navets glaces, 321 

" au gratin, 322 

" " j u % 3 21 

" puree, 321 
Neige, 456 

" a l'ananas, 467 
Nesselrode pudding, 498 
New Orleans court-bouillon, 66 

potatoes, 270 
Nobby buns, 413 
Noodle soup, French, 10 

" " German, 9 

" " Swedish, 10 

Noodles, French, 237 

" German, 238 

" Swedish, 238 

" tomato soup with, 24 
Normandy soup, 18 
Note, 546 
Notes, Stray, 532 
Nouilles, 237 

OAT-CAKES, 380 
Oat-meal griddle-cakes, 389 
Gsufs aux anchois, 360 



OEufs a. l'Andalouse, 367 
" " Aurore, 361 
' ' au beurre noir, 360 
" brouilles, 362 

" a lTndienne, 365 
" sauce tomate, 351 
" en caisses, 365 
" au celeri, 368 
" aux champignons, 364 
" a la coque, 358 
" durs en salade, 337 
" farcis, 359 

" " sauce mayonnaise, 366 

" fondu, 364 

frits, 361 
" " au jambon, 361 

" au kari, 362 
" en matelote, 363 
" poches, 360 
" aux pointes d'asperges, 364 
" a la poulette, 366 
" sauce tomate, 368 
" sur le plat, 350 
" " " au jambon, 350 

" " " pointes d'asperges, 

35o 
" aux tomates, 363 
" a la tripe, 351 
" truffes au jus, 363 
" a la Valencienne, 367 
Ognons, a la creme, 312 

" glaces, 313 
Oie rotie, 201 
Okra, boiled, plain, 314 
" gumbo, 22 
" salad, 329 
" soup, beef and, 17 
" " winter, 35 

" stewed, 314 
" and tomatoes, stewed, 314 
Omelet, cheese, 356 
" creole, 353 
" friar's, 485 
" kidney, 357 
" mushroom, 357 
" onion, 356 
" oyster, 353 

rum, 357 
" Spanish, 356 
11 sweetmeats, 358 
" truffle, 357 
Omelette, 351 

" aux champignons, 357 

" " confitures, 358 

" " a l'Espagnole, 356 

" " fines herbes, 355 

" " auxfoiesdevolailles, 367 

" au fromage, 356 



565 



Omelette, aux huitres, 353 
" au jambon, 352 
" a l'ognon, 356 
" au pain, 355 

" persil, 354 
" aux pommes de terre, 355 
" " rognons, sauce tomate, 

357 
" " aux sardines, 354 

" sauce tomate, 352 
" soufflee, 479 

" aux tomates, 353 
Onion soup No. I., 28 
" " No. II., 29 
" No. III., 29 
Onions, baked, browned, 313 
" to boil, 312 
" with cream sauce, 312 
" glazed, 313 
" to peel (note), 537 

pickled, 518 
" Spanish, 314 
Open, clams, to, 37, 85, 348 
Orange Bavarian cream, 456 
" cream, 459 
" custard filling, 420 
" icing, 422 
jelly, 463 
" " in baskets, 463 

" layer cake, 408 
" peel for cakes (note), 541 

pie, 432 
" pudding, baked No. I., 445 
No. II. ,445 
" " boiled, 446 

" salad, 487 
" sherbert, 502 
Order of Service of a Dinner, 345 
Ortolans, 209 

" grilles, 209 

Oseille, puree d', 304 
" soupe a 1', 33 
Oven, to reduce temperature of, 542 
Ox-tail soup, 20 
Ox-tails a la Tartare, 108 
Oyster balls, 235 

" and chicken pie, 227 

" dressing for boiled poultry ,240 

" force-meat, 235 

" fritters, 72 

" gumbo, 23 

" omelet, 369 

pie, 74 
" sauce, 251 
" soup, 38 
Oysters en brochette, 77 
" in a chafing-dish, 77 
" coddled, 73 



Oysters curried, 76 
" devilled, 71 
" fried, 70 
" and macaroni, 78 
" minced, 77 
" for pates, etc., 76 
" pan-roast, 71 
" au Parmesan, 73 
" pickled, 73 
" a la poulette, 72 
" raw, in a block of ice, 69 
" " on ]^. shell, 70 
" roast, 71 
" scalloped, 75 
" to select (note), 533 
" steamed, 71 
" stewed, 72 
Oyster-plant, 315 

" fried, 316 

" fritters, 316 

" mock oysters of, 316 

(note), 537 

" saute, 315 

" scalloped, 316 

" stewed, 315 

PAIN perdu, 482 
" de veau, 143 
Pain de viande, 144 
" " " en gelee, 230 
" " volaille, 191 
Panais, beignets de, 319 
" a la creme, 319 
" frits, 320 
" puree de, 320 
" sautes, 319 
Pan boracho, 467 
" cakes, 482 
" dowdy, 435 
Parfait au cafe, 494 
Parmentier soup (potato), 27 
Parsley cream sauce, 251 
" fried, 241 
" sauce, 256 
Parsnip balls, 320 

" fritters, 319 
Parsnips, to boil, 318 
" fried, 320 

" mashed, 320 

" saute, 319 

" stewed with cream sauce, 

319 
Partridges, broiled No. I.. 209 
" " No. II, 210 

" aux choux, 211 

" en compote, 213 

" jellied, 211 

" roast, 211 



566 INDEX. 




Paste, good plain, 425 


Philadelphia potatoes, 273 


" suet, 426 


" White Mountain Cake, 


Pastry croutons, 241 


403 


" Pies, etc., 423 


" fish-house punch, 528 


" potato, 425 


" terrapin, 68 


11 sandwiches, 427 


Pickle, black, 516 


Patates douces, 277 


" celery, 516 


" caramel, 277 


" hash, 518 


" puree, sauce tomate, 


" Indian, 517 


277 


" pepper, 516 


" " sautees aubeurre, 277 


" sauce, 249 


Pate, feuilletee, 423 


" spiced peaches, 519 


" chicken, jellied, 191 


Pick 


ed cauliflower, 519 


" game, " 223 




gherkins, 519 


" de gibier en gelee, 223 


■ 


nasturtiums, 517 


" d'huitres, 74 


' 


onions, 518 


Pates, scallop, 84 


' 


oysters, 73 


Peach, dried, pudding, 437 


' 


shad, 51 


" filling, 419 


4 


string-beans, 519 


" fritters, 477 


Pick 


es, Catsups, etc., 515 


" marmalade, 512 


' 


green tomato, 5 15 


" short-cake, 434 


' 


" soy, 515 


" sponge, 486 


' 


" " sweet, 519 


" sweetmeats, 508 


" and preserves (note), 533 


" tart, 433 


Pie, apple, 431 


Peaches, brandied, 506 


" blackberry, 431 


" and cream, frozen, 495 


" cherry, 431 


" frozen, 501 


" chicken and oyster, 227 


" preserved in syrup, 505 


" cranberry, 431 


" spiced, 519 


" crust, flaky, 424 


Pea-nut candy, 514 


" currant, 431 


Pea soup, green, 27 


" custard, 429 


Peas, to boil green, 289 


" lemon, 432 


" " " tender (note), 538 


" " custard, old-fashioned 


" puree of, 290 


. 428 


" " " dried, 307 


" mince No. I., 426 


" rule for boiling, (note), 536 


" " No. II., 427 


" stewed, 289 


" orange, 432 


Pease soup, 31 


" oyster, 74 


Pebre, 188 


" peach (see tart), 433 


Pecan -nut candy, 514 


" pumpkin, 429 


Peches glacees, 501 


" squash, 430 


" " a la creme, 495 


" sweet-potato custard, 430 


" mousse aux, 486 


" Washington, 416 


Pepper (note), 538 


Pieds de cochon frits, 172 


" pickle, 516 


Pie-plant, 488 


" sauce, Spanish red, 256 


" Charlotte, 483 


" spirits of, 520 


to keep, 513 


" vinegar, 520 


Pig, roast, 164 


Peppers, stuffed, 295 


Pigeon pie, English, 217 


Perdrix aux choux, 211 


Pigeons, broiled, 215 


" en gelee, 211 


' 


compote of, 216 


" grillees No. I., 209 


' 


grille's, 215 


" " No. II., 210 


' 


roasted, 214 


" roties, 211 


' 


stewed in consomme, 216 


Pheasants, partridges, quail (note), 


Pigs' feet, fried, 172 


535 


" " soused, 172 


Philadelphia chicken croquettes, 228 


Pimt 


;nts, farcis, 295 



INDEX. 



567 



Pimiento dulce, salsa, 256 
Pine-apple cream, frozen, 495 
" ice-cream, 497 

" marmalade, 512 

" mousse, 496 

" to prepare for table, 489 

" sherbet, 502 

" snow, 467 

" tart, 434 

Pintade, braisee, 201 
" grillee, 201 
" rotie, 200 
Plain braise, 93 

" cake, very light, 404 
Planked shad, 50 

" (note), 533 
Plover, 209 
Plum-pudding, 446 

" English, 447, 

" glace, 498 

made over, 465 
Plums, preserved, 508 
Pluvier, 209 
Poached, eggs, 360 

" " with anchovy toast, 

360 
Pois petits, No. I., 289 
" No. II., 289 
" " sautes, 289 
" puree de, 290 
' ' sees, puree de, 307 
Poisson, coulis de, 38 

' ' cuit au court bouillon, 43 
" a la Delmonico, 60 
Poivrade, sauce, 257 
Pommes, Charlotte de, 483 
" mousse aux, 486 
" puree de, 262 
" de terre en boulettes, 270 
" " " a la bourgeoise, 275 

" " " " Brabanconne, 

271 
" " " au court-bouillon, 

266 
" " " a la creme, 274 

" " " " creole, 270 

" " " croquettes de, 270 

" " " a la Delmonico, 273 

" " " " diable, 273 

" " " " duchesse, 274 

" " " farcies, 272 

" " " a la Francaise, 277 

" " " frites, 275 

" " " a la Hollandaise, 

275 
" " " " Julienne, 276 

" " " " Lyonnaise, 268 

" " " au naturel, 266 



Pommes de terre en neige, 267 

" " a la Parisienne, 276 
" " " poulette, 272 
" " en puree, 267 
" " salade de, 334 
" " sauce blanche, 274 
" " sautees, 268 
" " en souffle, 271 
tourte aux, 431 
Ponche, a. la Romaine, 503 

" au the, 526 
Pop-overs No. I., 387 

No. II., 387 
Pore, cochon de lait, 164 
" cotelettes, grillees, cornichons, 

165 
" filets, sautes, 165 
" longe rotie, 164 
Pork, 164 

" bacon in batter for breakfast, 

173 
" " fried No. I., 173 

" " " No. II., 173 

" " toasted, 173 
" and beans, 166 
" chops broiled, pickle sauce, 165 
" creole sausages, 170 
" head cheese, 169 
" larding (note), 534 
" loin roast, 164 
" pigs' feet, soused, 172 
" " " fried, 172 
" roast pig, 164 
" sausage roll, 171 
" sausages with cabbage, 172 
11 " a la creole, 170 

" " fried with apples, 171 

" " home-made breakfast, 

171 
" sausages, to keep (note), 535 
" " with puree of potatoes, 

171 
" scrapple, 170 
" tenderloins, 165 
Potage, a. la d'Artois, 27 

" " bonne femme, 33 
" " " menagere, 16 
" " Chantilly, 32 
" " Conde, 32 
" " Crecy No. I., 26 
" " No. II., 26 
" croute-au-pot, 12 
" a la Julienne, 12 
" aux laitues, 17 
" au macaroni, 9 
" de nouilles, No. I., 9 
" " " No. II., 10 
No. III., 10 



568 



INDEX 



Potage, Parmentier, 27 

" aux pates d'ltalie, 11 
" a la paysanne, 34 

" Russe, 17 
" au sagou, 10 
" a la semoule, 12 
" au tapioca, 9 
" aux tomates, 30 
" vermicelli, 11 
Potato balls, 270 
" chips, 275 
" croquettes, 270 
" dressing, 239 
" hash, cream, 274 
" " fried, 269 

" pastry, 425 
" pudding, 443 
" puff, 269 
" salad, 334 
" snow, 267 

souffle, 271 
" soup, 27 
Potatoes, baked, 267 

" to boil, 266 

" " " new, 267 

" boiled, cold, 268 

" bourgeoise, 275 

" a la Brabanconne, 271 

" " Delmonico, 273 

" " diable, 273 

" " duchesse, 274 

" farcied, 272 

" a la Francaise, 277 

" fricasseed, 274 

" a la Hollandaise, 275 

" " Julienne, 276 

" Lyonnaise, 268 

" mashed, 267 

" New Orleans, 270 

" a la Parisienne, 276 

" Philadelphia, 273 

" roast, with meat, 268 

" saute, 268 

" to serve with boiled fish, 266 

" stewed, 272 
Pot-au-feu, 5 
Pot-pie, beefsteak, 104 

" veal, 138 
Potomac herring, 65 
Pot-roast, 93 
Poule au riz, 196 

Poulet, beignets, a la Tartare, 187 
" au blanc, 195 
" braise aux carottes, 180 
" " au macaroni, 179 

" " aux topinambours, 180 

" a la diable, 194 
" diable, en caisses, 190 



Poulet, a l'Espagnole, 181 
" " estragon, 195 
" farci aux tomates, 194 
" filets de, sautes, 185 
fricassee, No. I., 182 
No. II., 183 
" sauce tomate, 190 
" grille aux cressons, 179 
" au kari, 184 
" matelote de, 187 
" a la reine, 189 
" saute aux champignons, 186 
" " " petits pois, 185 

Poulets rotis, 176 
Poulette sauce, 248 
Poultry, 175 

" to clean, 175 
" to truss, 176 
Pound cake, 396 

" cakes, small, 409 
Preface, iii. 
Preserves, 505 

' ' blackberry sweetmeats, 509 

" brandied peaches, 506 

" cherries, in syrup, 508 

" cherry sweetmeats, 5 ro 

" citron (see watermelon), 507 

" currant jelly, 511 

" sweetmeats, 510 
" drumheads (see water- 

melon), 507 
" grape jelly, 511 

" sweetmeats, 510 
" jamboree, 513 

" peach marmalade, 512 

" sweetmeats, 508 
" peaches, in syrup, 505 

" pie-plant, 513 

" pine-apple marmalade, 512 

" plums, 508 

' ' strawberry sweetmeats, 509 

" syrup for, 505 

" watermelon rind, 507 

Promises, 410 
Prune pudding, 441 
Pudding, amber, 444 
" Amherst, 447 
" apple, frozen, 497 

" old-fashioned, 449 
" " spiced, 436 

" batter, baked, 442 
" Beaulieu, 438 
" beefsteak, 104 
" blackberry, baked, 436 
" boiled, 436 

" brown Betty, 435 
" cabinet, 437 
" " cold, 462 



INDEX. 



569 



Pudd 



Pudd 



ng, cherry, 442 
chocolate, 444 
cocoa-nut No. I., 443 
No. II., 443 
cottage, 441 
date, 449 

fig, 449 

frozen fruit, 499 
gelatine, 461 
huckleberry, 437 

" roly-poly, 441 

iced, 500 
Indian, 444 

" old-fashioned, 445 
lemon, baked No. I., 445 
" No. II., 446 
" boiled, 446 
minute, 442 
Nesselrode, 498 
orange, baked No. I., 445 
" " No. II., 445 

" boiled, 446 
pan-dowdy, 435 
peach (dried), 437 
plum, 446 

" glace, 498 

" English, 447 

" made over, 465 
potato, 443 
prune, 441 
rice cream, 439 

" No. I., 439 

" No. II., 440 

" and peach, 440 
roly-poly baked, 440 
" boiled, 441 

royal Coburg, 438 
sauce, brandy, 452 

" caramel, 451 

" custard, 4gi 

" golden, 450 
hard, 452 

" " plain, 452 

" lemon, 452 

" Maryland wine, 453 

" silver, 451 

" strawberry, 451 

" velvet, 450 

" whipped cream, 450 

" wine, 453 
sauces, 450 
Scandinavian fish, 53 
snow, 461 
spice, 448 
suet, 448 
sweet potato, 441 
Yorkshire, 93, 392 
ngs, 423 



Puff-paste, 423 
Puffs, 386 

" , bread, 376 
breakfast, 387 
Pumpkin pie, 429 
Punch, frozen, 503 

" Philadelphia fish-house, 528 
" Roman, 503 

" tea, 526 
Puree Chantilly, 32, 307 

" a la Conde, 32, 306 

" " Dustan, 33 

" de legumes, 36 

" " pois sees, 31, 307 

" " pommes, 262 

" Soubise, 29 

" de tomates, 23 

" " " au macaroni, 24 

" " " aux nouilles, 24 

" " " " quenelles, 24 

Purees in general, 24 

QUAIL, broiled, 212 
" en compote (cold), 213 
" roasted, 212 
" saute in lard, 213 
Queen cakes, 414 

" Elizabeth's toast, 482 
Quenelles, 233 

" fish, 234 

" de poisson, 234 

" Soyer's, 234 

Queues de bceuf, a la Tartare, 108 
Quinces, baked, 487 

RABBIT, barbecued, 218 
" au chasseur, 219 
" potted, 220 
Racahout, 525 

Ragout de bceuf au gombo, 109 
" " chevreuil, 222 
" " concombres, 302 
Raifort, sauce au, 260 
Raisins, to stone (note), 541 
Raspberry, Charlotte, 484 

" and currant jelly, 511 

" ice, 501 

" Saracen, 484 

" short-cake, 434 

" toast, 485 

" vinegar, 527 

Ratatouille, Creole, 142 
Ravigote sauce, 258 
Red bean salad, 330 

" " soup, 32 
Reed-birds, 209 

" broiled, 209 

Re-heating meats, 89 



570 



INDEX. 



Reine, soup a la, No. I., 18 

" " No. II., 19 
Relishes For Breakfast, 347 

" Savory, 340 
Remedy for burns (note), 546 
Remoulade, sauce, 259 

" " verte, 259 

Rhubarb, 488 
Rice, boiled, 323 
border, 322 
cream pudding, 439 
Creole, 323 
griddle-cakes, 389 
parched, 530 
and peach, 440 
pudding No. I., 439 

" No. II., 440 
souffle, 481 
soup, 11 

" without meat, 27 
waffles, 383 
water, 530 
de veau, beignets de, 147 
" " aux champignons, 149 
" " grilles, 150 
" " au kari, 150 
" " en mayonnaise, 336 
" " panes, 146 
" " piques et braise, 147 
" " a la poulette, 149 
" " rotis, 150 
" " sautes, 148 
Rissoles, 229 
Riz, 323 

creme de, 28 
a la creme, 439 
au lait No. I., 439 
" " No. II., 440 
au maigre, 27 
perle 323 
Roast beef, 90 
Roasted ice-cream, 499 
Robert sauce, 257 
Rodgrod (Danish), 472 
Rognons de bceuf sautes, 109 
" en brochette, 127 

" de mouton panes, 127 

" a la terrapin, no 

" de veau, 163 
Roll, beef, 108 
Rolls, bread, 375 

" corn, 386 
Roly-poly pudding, baked, 440 
" " boiled, 441, 

" " huckleberry, 441 

Romaine salad, 327 
Root-beer, 527 
Rosbif, 90 



Rouleau de bceuf, 108 
Roulette, bceuf en, 108 
Roux, brown, 243 

" white, 244 
Royal Coburg pudding, 438 
Royale, consomme a la, 8 
Rum in cooking, use of, 543 

" icing, 421 

" omelet, 357 
Russe, salade, 333 
Russian salad, 333 

" soup, 17 
Rust, to remove, from steel, 546 
Rye bread, 374 

SAGE dressing, 240 
" stuffing, 239 
Sago soup, 10 

Salad, apple and orange, 488 

" asparagus, 328 

" bouilli, 336 

" cauliflower, 329 

" celery, 330 

" " cabbage, and beets, 330 

" " doucette, and beets, 330 

" " mayonnaise, 331 

" cheese, 342 

" chicken, 335 

" " and celery, 335 

" " " lettuce, 334 

" chick ory, 327 

" cold slaw, 331 

" " " old-fashioned, 331 

" corn, 327 

" crab, 83 

" cress, pepper-grass, and cher- 
vil, 327 

" cucumber, 301 

" " and onion, 328 

" dandelion, 327 

" a la Demidoff, 333 

" of endives, 326 

" escarole, 327 

" fetticus, 327 

" fish, 47 

" hard-boiled egg, 337 

" Jerusalem artichokes, 329 

" lentil, 334 

" lettuce, 326 

" lobster, 337 

" okra, 329 

" orange, 487 

" potato, 334 

" red-bean, 330 

" Romaine, 327 

" Russian, 333 

" salmon, mayonnaise of, 338 

" sardine, 337 



INDEX. 



571 



Salad, scallop, 84 

" shad- roe, mayonnaise of, 338 
" shrimp, 339 
" string-bean, 328 
" sweetbread, mayonnaise, 336 
" tomato, 331 
" " mayonnaise, 332 

" turkey olio, 335 
" veal, 335 
" water-cress, 327 
" white-bean, 332 
Salade, asperges en, 328 
" de bouilli, 336 
" " celeri, 330 
" " " en mayonnaise, 331 
" chou-fleur en, 329 
" de concombres, 328 
" " crevettes, 339 
" " gombos, 329 
" haricots, verts en, 328 

de lentilles, 334 
" mayonnaise de saumon, 338 
" " volaille, 334 

" ceufs durs en, 337 
" de pommes de terre, 334 
" russe, 333 
" de tomates, 331 
" " " en mayonnaise, 

332 
" de topinambours, 329 
Sally Lunn, 377 
Salmi de canard, 203 
" of tame duck, 203 
-" " wild " with olives, 206 
Salmon, boiled, 56 
" croquettes, 56 
" mayonnaise of, 338 
" with mayonnaise sauce, 338 
" steaks, 56 
Salt cod, a la bonne femme, 57 

" " fish, to freshen, 64 
Salt mackerel, broiled, 64 
Salted almonds, 344 
Salt-rising bread, 376 
Salsifis, beignets de, 316 
" coquilles de, 316 
" au gratin, 316 
Salsify, 315 

" cakes, fried, 316 
" fritters, 316 
" mock-oysters of, 316 
" saute, 315 
" scalloped, 316 
" stewed, with cream sauce, 315 
Samp, 309 

" fried, 309 
Sandwiches, Indian, 343 
" pastry, 427 



Saracen, raspberry, 484 
" strawberry, 484 
Sardine omelet, 354 

" salad, 337 
Sardines on toast with cheese, 342 
Sauce, Allemande, 248 

anchovy, 250 

apple, 262 

Beartiaise, 252 

Bechamel, 247 

au beurre d'anchois, 250 

beurre maitre d'hotel, 252 

au beurre noir, 254 

blanche, 250 

blending for, 245 

blonde, 260 

brown, 246 

" gravy, 246 
" roux, 243 

butter, plain melted, 255 

caper, 250 

caramel (pudding), 451 

cauliflower, 251 

celery, 249 

aux champignons, 254 

chestnut, 259 

aux choux-fleurs, 251 

coloring for, 245 

aux concombres, 262 
" cornichons, 249 

cranberry, 263 

cream, 247 

cucumber, 262 

custard (pudding), 451 

devil, 249 

diable, 249 

Espagnole, 246 

golden (pudding), 450 

hard " 452 

hard-egg, 250 

Hollandaise, 255 

homard, 250 

horse-radish, 260 

aux huitres, 251 

jelly, for venison, 263 

lemon (pudding), 452 

lobster, 250 

madeira, 254 

maitre d'hotel, 252 

" " butter, 252 

aux marrons, 259 

Maryland wine (pudding), 453 

matelote, for fish, 262 

mayonnaise, 261 

melted butter, plain, 255 

mint, 260 

mushroom, for filet of beef, 254 

oyster, 251 



572 



INDEX. 



Sauce, parsley. 256 

" " cream, 251 

" pepper, Spanish red, 256 

" persil, 256 

" pickle, 249 

" poivrade, 257 

" poulette, 248 

" au raifort, 260 

" ravigote 258 

" remoulade, 259 

" verte, 259 

" Robert, 257 

" shad-roe, 258 

" silver (pudding), 451 

" to skim (note), 538 

" soubise, 257 

" Spanish red pepper, 256 

" strawberry (pudding), 451 

" Tartare, 261 

" terrapin, 253 

" tomato, 255 

" " with wine, 256 

" veloute', 251 

" velvet (pudding), 450 

" vinaigrette, 258 

" whipped-cream (pudding), 450 

" white, 250 

" " roux for, 244 

" wine (pudding), 453 
Sauces, general directions for, 243 
Saumon, croquettes de, 56 

" sauce mayonnaise, 56 
Saucisses aux choux, 172 
" a la Creole, 170 

" frites aux pommes, 171 

" puree de pommes de terre, 

171 
Sausage, dressing for turkeys, 239, 
241 

" meat for breakfast, 232 

Sausages with cabbage, 172 

" Creole, 170 

" fried with apples, 171 

" home-made breakfast, 171 

" to keep (note), 535 

" with puree of potatoes, 171 

" roll, 171 

Savory Relishes, 340 

" soup, 16 

" " maigre, 38 

Savoy cake, 398 
Scalloped oysters, 75 
Scallops, devilled, 84 

" a la diable, 84 
fried, 83 

" pates, 84 

" a la poulette, 84 

" salad, 84 



Scallops, stewed, 84 
Scandinavian fish pudding, 53 
Schmier-kase, 371 
Scotch broth, 19 
" roll, 107 
" woodcock, 343 
Scrapple, 170 

Select oysters, to (note), 533 
Shad, baked No. I., 49 
" No. II., 50 
" boiled, 49 

" cold boiled a la Tartare, 50 
" cutlets a l'oseille, 49 
" planked, 50 

(note), 533 
" " pickled, 51 

" " soused, 51 

Shad-roe croquettes, 51 

" salad, 338 
Sheeps' kidneys en brochette, 127 
Sheets of iron or tin (note), 533 
Shell-fish, 68 

" clams, chowder No. I., 86 

No. II., 87 
" " with cream, 85 

14 " farcied, 85 

" " fritters, 85 

" " to open, 37, 85 

" " raw, 85 

" " roast, 86 

" " stew, 85 

" crabs, devilled, 82 

" " farcied, 82 

" " hard, boiled, 82 

" " salad, 83 

" " soft-shell, fried, 82 

" lobster, bisque, 36 

" " to boil, 78 

" broiled a l'Ameri- 
caine, 79 
" " chops, 80 

" " curry, 81 

" " devilled, 81 

" " to dress cold, 79 

" " farcied, 81 

" " mayonnaise, 337 

" " a. la Newberg, 80 

" " sauce, 250 

" " to select (note), 534 

" oyster balls, 235 

" oysters en brochette, 77 

" " in a chafing-dish, 77 

" " and chicken pie, 

227 
" coddled, 73 
" " curried, 76 

" " devilled, 71 

" " dressing, 240 



INDEX. 



573 



Shell-fish, oysters, fried, 70 
" " fritters, 72 

" force-meat, 235 
" and macaroni, 78 
" " minced, 77 

" omelet, 369 
" " pan-roast, 71 

" " au Parmesan, 73 

" " for pates, etc., 76 

" " pickled, 73 

" Pie, 74 
" " a la poulette, 72 

" " raw, on a block of 

ice, 69 
" " roast, 71 

" " sauce, 251 

" " scalloped, 75 

" " to select (note), 533 

" " on %, shell, 70 

" " steamed, 71 

" " stewed, 72 

" terrapin, Baltimore, 69 

" Philadelphia, 68 
Shepherd's pie, 126 
Sherbet, currant, 503 
" orange, 502 
" pine-apple, 502 
" strawberry, 503 
Short-cake, peach, 434 
" raspberry, 434 

" strawberry, 434 

Short-cakes, 378 

" cream, 379, 

Shrewsbury court-bouillon, 65 
Shrimp salad, 339 
Slip, 470 
Smelts, baked, 52 
" broiled, 52 
" fried, 52 
" mayonnaise, 53 
" stewed, 53 
Smoked beef with cream, 109 
" and eggs, 358 
" tongue, to boil, ill 
Snipe, roasted No. I., 208 
" No. II., 208 
" saute, 207 
Snow cream, 456 

" pudding, 461 
Soda biscuits, 378 
Soft-shell crabs, fried, 82 
Sole a l'Aurore, 63 
" fried, 62 

" fillets of,-maitre d'hotel, 63 
" " " a la Orly, 62 
Sorbet, 503 
Sorrel, puree of, 304 
" soup, 33 



Soubise, puree, 29 
Souffle, arrowroot, 480 
" chicken Mo I., 182 

" No. II., 186 
" gi n g er » 480 
" ham, 168 
" potato, 271 
" rice, 481 
" tomato, 282 
Soufflee, omelette, 479 
Soup, amber consomme, 7 
arrowroot, 11 
asparagus, 25 
bean, black, 31 
" lima and tomatoes, 39 
" red, 32 
" turtle, 31 
" white, 33 
beef and okra, 17 
bisque of clams, 37 
" " lobster, 36 
" tomato, 30 
blending for, 245 
bouillon, fait en 1 heure, 8 

" gilt-edged, 3 

broth, hasty, 8 

" made in 1 hour, 8 
calf's head, 13 
chicken consomme, 8 
" gumbo, 23 
" " file, 21 

clearing, 6 
coloring, 6, 245 
consomme, 1 

" amber, 7 

" dore, 7 

" with macaroni, 9 

' ' aux ceuf s poches, 10 

" with poached eggs, 

10 
" a la royale, 8 

" de volaille, 8 

crab gumbo No. I., 23 

" " No. II., 39 
Crecy No. I., 26 
" No. II., 26 
creme de riz, 28 
croute-au-pot, 12 
economical, 16 

" maigre, 34 

farina, 12 
fish, 39 

General Directions for, 1 
giblet, 21 
green-pea, 27 
with Italian pastes, n 
Julienne, 12 
lentil, 32 



574 



INDEX. 



Soup, lettuce, 17 


Soupe, maigre, 35 




' lobster bisque, 36 


" aux ognons, 28 




1 macaroni, 37 


" a l'oseille, 33 




' maigre, 35 


" au riz, 11 




• " economical, 34 


" a. la tortue No. I., 14 




1 " savory, 38 


" No. II., 15 




' " summer, 34 


Soups, purees, and soups without 




" white, 34 


meat, I 




1 milk, 28 


Soused shad, 51 




' mock- turtle No. I., 14 


Soy, green tomato, 515 




No. II., 15 


Spanish chicken, 181 




' mulligatawny, 20 


" cream, 460 




' noodle, French, 10 


" red-pepper sauce, 256 




' " German, 9 


" toast, 481 




' " Swedish, 10 


Spice pudding, 448 




• Normandy, 18 


Spiced peaches, 519 




' okra gumbo, 22 


" vinegar, 521 




' onion No. I., 28 


Spinach a la creme, 303 




' " No. II., 29 


' ' au jus, 302 




" No. III., 29 


" pie-plant, 303 




' ox-tail, 20 


Sponge, apple, 486 




1 oyster, 38 


" cake, layer, 398 




1 " gumbo, 23 


" " No. I., 397 




' Parmentier, 27 


" No. II., 397 




1 pease, 31 


" peach, 486 




' potato, 27 


Sprouts, Brussels, 293 




' pot-au-feu, 5 


Sprue and eggs, 288 




' red-bee.n, 32 


Squabs, broiled, 215 




' a la reine No. I., 18 


" roasted, 214 




" No. II., 19 


Squash pie (see pumpkin), 429 




1 rice, 11 


" summer, 294 




' " without meat, 27 


" Turk's head, 294 




4 Russian, 17 


Stale-bread griddle-cakes, 391 




' sago, 10 


Steak a la Shrewsbury, 103 




' savory, 16 


Steam fish, to, 44 




1 " maigre, 38 


Steel, to remove rust from, 546 




' Scotch broth, 19 


Stewed fish en matelote, 45 




' sorrel, 33 


Stock, fish, 38 




' summer maigre, 34 


Strawberries and cream, frozen, 496 




' tapioca, 9 


" frozen, 501 




1 tomato bisque, 30 


" to prepare for table, 488 




1 " No. I., 23 


Strawberry Bavarian cream, 455 




' " No. II., 30 


" fritters, 478 




' " and lima beans, 39 


" ice, 501 




" " macaroni, 24 


" ice-cream, 496 




1 " with noodles, 24 


" Saracen, 484 




" " quenelles, 24 


" sauce (pudding), 451 




' turtle-bean, 31 


" sherbet, 503 




' vegetable, 36 


" short-cake, 434 




' vermicelli, 11 


" sweetmeats, 509 




' white, 18 


" tart, 434 




' " bean, 33 


Stray Notes, 532 




' " maigre, 34 


String-beans, 305 


" winter okra, 35 


" pickled, 519 


Soupe blanche, 34 


" salad of, 328 


" a la bonne menagere, 16 


Stuffing, sage, for geese, 239 


" aux huitres, 38 


Suet dumplings, 392 




" au kit, 28 


" paste, 426 



575 



Suet pudding, 448 
Swedish noodle soup, 10 
Sweetbreads, Baltimore style, 152 

braised and larded, 147 
" broiled, 150 

en casserole, 151 
croquettes of, 151 
" curried, 150 

fried, 146 
" fritters of, 147 

mayonnaise of, 336 
with mushrooms, 149 
" note, 534 

a la poulette, 149 
to prepare, 146 
roasted, 150 
saute, 148 
Sweet-herb, dressing for veal, 240 
Sweetmeat omelet, 358 
Sweetmeats, blackberry, 509 
" cherry, 510 

" currant, 510 

grape, 510 
peach, 508 
" strawberry, 509 

Sweet- pickle, green tomato, 519 
Sweet-potato custard pie, 430 

dressing for turkey, 240 
pudding, 441 
Sweet potatoes, to bake (note), 538 
" " baked, 277 

" " boiled, 278 

" " caramel, 277 

" " fried, 277 

" " puree, baked, 278 

" with tomato 
sauce, 279 
" " roasted with meat, 278 

Syrup, 453 

" to check boiling (note), 542 
" for griddle-cakes, 453 
" " preserves, 505 

TABLE of Comparative Weights 
and Measures, xii. 
Tame duck, 203 
Tapioca jelly, 473 
" soup, 9 
" whip, 474 
Tarragon, vinegar, 520 
Tart, cranberry, 433 
" creamed apple, 435 
" peach, 433 
" pine-apple, 434 
" strawberry, 434 
Tartare sauce, 261 
Tea biscuit, 378 
" cakes, cream, 393 



Tea, iced, 524 
" to make good, 523 
" punch, 526 
" Russian, 524 
Terrapin, Baltimore, 69 
" mock, 159 

Philadelphia, 68 
" sauce, 253 

Tete de veau, fromage de, 154 
" " " au gratin, 153 
" " " " naturel, 153 
" " " a la terrapin, 155 
" " " aux tomates, 154 
Timbale de macaroni, 224 
Time-table for game, 174 
" " meats, 88 

" poultry, 174 
" " vegetables, 264 

Tipsy cake, 467 
Toad-in-the-hole, 232 
Toast, anchovy, 343 
" apricot, 485 
" Bombay, 343 
" cherry, 484 
" Queen Elizabeth's, 482 
" raspberry, 485 
" Spanish, 481 
" water, 530 
Tomates, farcies 279 

" a l'ecarlate, 280 
' ' aux champignons, 282 
" a la reine, 280 
" frites a la creme, 279 

" macaroni aux, 283 
" riz aux, 282 
" en souffle, 282 
Tomato bisque, 36. 

" catsup No. I.. 520 

" " No. II., 521 

' ' and lima bean soup, 39 
" " macaroni soup, 24 

" mayonnaise, 332 
" pickle, green, 515 

" rice, 282 
" salad, 331 
" sauce, 255 

" with wine, 256 
" souffle, 282 

" soup No. I., 23 
" " No. II., 30 

" " with noodles, 24 

" " " quenelles, 24 

" soy, green, 515 
" sweet-pickle, green, 519 
Tomatoes, baked, 279 

" a l'ecarlate, 280 

' ' fried with cream, 279 

" and macaroni, 283 



S7 6 



INDEX., 



Tomatoes, roasted with beef , etc., 280 
" scalloped, 281 

" with meat, 231 

" stewed, 281 

" stuffed with mushrooms, 

282 
" " a la reine, 280 

" with tomato sauce, 
280 
Tongue, to boil, 11 1 
" braised, 111, 

" puree of potatoes, 
112 
" " puree of spinach, 1 13 

" " sauce piquante, 113 

" Tartare, 112 
" tomato sauce, 113 
" jellied, 112 
" lambs', 129, 130 
" smoked, to boil, in 
Topinambours braises, 311 

a la creme, 310 
" frits, 311 

au gratin, 311 
puree de, 311 
" rotis, 311 

salade de, 329 
Torrijas, 481 
Tortilla, 353 
Tot-fait, 481 
Tourte a 1 'ananas, 434 
" aux f raises, 434 
" " peches, 433 
" " pommes, 431 
Trifle, 467 
Tripe, fried, 162 

" a la poulette, 162 
" to prepare, 162 
" saute, 162 
Trout, of 1 pound, to boil, 44 
" brook, to fry, etc., 45 
Troy loaf-cake, 394 
Truffle omelet, 357 
Truffled eggs, au jus, 363 
Truss, a fowl when drawn, to, 176 

" small birds (note), 533 
Turbot, a la creme, mock, 61 
Turcsicus, 125 
Turkey, boiled, 199 
" chick, 197 
" en daube, 198 
" olio, 335 
" roast, to, 196 
" " with mushrooms, 200 

" (note), 534 
" " with truffles, 199 

Turkeys, to preserve (note), 535 
Turnips baked with mutton, 321 



Turnips boiled, 320 

" " cream sauce with mut- 

ton, 321 

" browned, 322 

" glazed, 321 

" au gratin, 322 

" " jus, 321 

" mashed, 321 
Turnip-tops, 304 
Turtle-bean soup, 31 



VANILLA ice-cream, 492 
' ' with eggs, 

491 
Vanilla ice-cream, Philadelphia, 491 
Veal, bewitched, 145 

blanquette of, 140 
calf's-head boiled, 153 
" " cheese, 154 
" " au gratin, 153 
" " mushrooms and to- 
matoes, 154 
" " a la terrapin, 155 
" heart, stuffed, 163 
calves' brains, beurre noir, 157 
" " fried, 156 

" " fritters, 156 

" " with macaroni, 

, I57 
" " a. la poulette, 156 

" " to prepare, 156 

" kidneys, 163 
chops, a la jardiniere (see mut- 
ton), 123 

" a la Milanaise, 139 

" en papillotes (see mut- 
ton), 122 

" saute, 139 
cream of, 141 
Creole ratatouille, 142 
croquettes, 139 
cutlets, braised, 137 

" fried, 136 

" " a la Maryland, 137 

" saute, 138 
devilled, en caisse, 144 
fillet, braised, 134 

" " Soubise sauce, 134 

" stuffed, roasted, 133 
flank (cold), stuffed, 140 
fourchette, 161 
fricandeau, 134 

" with Sorrel, 135 

" a la Soubise, 135 

general remarks, 132 
and ham croquettes, 139 
" " pie (see blackbird), 217 



577 



Veal, jellied, 145 

knuckle, browned, 136 
liver and bacon, 158 
" braised, 158 
" broiled, 161 
" roasted, 159 
" saute, 160 
" " with pickle sauce, 

160 
" smothered in onions, 160 
loaf, 143 
loin, roast, 133 
mock-terrapin, 159 
olives, 143 
pot-pie, 138 
salad, 335 

sweetbreads, braised and larded, 
147 
" broiled, 150 

en casseroles, 151 
croquettes, 151 
" curried, 150 

fried, 146 
" fritters, 147 

mayonnaise of, 336 
" with mushrooms, 

149 
a la poulette, 149 
to prepare, 146 
roasted, 150 
" saute, 148 

tripe, fried, 162 

" a la poulette, 162 
" to prepare, 162 
" saute, 162 
blanquette de, 140 
Veau, en caisses, 144 

cervelle de, beignets de, 156 
" " au beurre noir, 157 
" " f rites, 156 
" " a la poulette, 156 
" " sautees a la Mila- 
naise, 157 
cceur de, farci, 163 
cotelettes sautees, 139 

" a la Mila- 
naise, 139 
creme de, 141 
croquettes de, 139 
fricandeau, 134 

" a. l'oseille, 135 

" " Soubise, 135 

foie de, braise, 158 
" " grille, 161 
" " roti, 159 
" " saute, 160 
V " " aux cornichons, 
160 



Veau, galantine de, 140 
en gelee, 145 
jarret, pane, 136 
longe, rotie, 133 
mayonnaise de, 335 
noix,braisees a la jardiniere, 137 
" panees, 136 
" sautees, 138 
" " a la Maryland, 

137 
aux olives, 143 
pain de, 143 

ratatouille a la Creole, 142 
ris de, beignets de, 147 
" " aux champignons, 149 
" "en casseroles, 151 
" " croquettes de, 151 
" " grilles, 150 
" " au kari, 150 
" " panes, 146 
" " piques et braises, 147 
" " a la poulette, 149 
" " rotis, 150 
" " sautes, 148 
rognons, 163 
rouelle, braisee, 134 

" " sauce Soubise, 

134 
rouelle, farcie, 133 
tete de, fromage de, 154 
' au gratin, 153 
' " naturel, 153 
' a la terrapin, 155 
' aux tomates, 154 
tripe frite, 162 
a la poulette, 162 
saute, 162 
Vegetable, press (note), 532 

" soup, 36 

Vegetables, artichokes, French globe, 
312 
" Jerusalem, 310 

" Jerusalem, 

baked, 311 
" Jerusalem, 

braised, 311 
" Jerusalem, 

chips, 311 
" Jerusalem, 

au gratin, 311 
" Jerusalem, 

puree, 311 
" asparagus, to boil, 287 

" tips, stewed, 

288 
" beans, Boston baked, 307 

" Creole and bacon. 



573 



Vegetables, beans, lima, 306 

" " red, puree of, 306 

" " string, 305 

" beets, 318 

" beet-tops, 304 

" broccoli, 292 

" cabbage, and celery 

stewed, 293 
" summer, 292 

" stewed, 293 

" " stuffed, 231 

" " " red, 232 

" " winter, 292 

canned, 294 
carrots, 316 

" caramel, 318 
" " fricasseed, 317 

" " Lyonnaise, 317 

" " sauted, 317 

cauliflower, 291 

" augratin,2gx 

" tomato sauce, 

292 
celeriac, 310 
celery, fritters, 310 
" " au jus, 309 

" stewed, 310 
chestnuts, puree of, 308 
chickory, puree of, 304 
corn, baked, 296 
" to boil, 296 
" fritters, 297 
" oysters, 296 
" pudding, as a, 295 
" cucumbers, dressed, 301 

" fried, 300 

" " fritters, 302 

" a la maitre 

d 'hotel, 301 
" " a la poulette, 

301 
' ' ragout of, and 

onions, 302 
" stewed, 299 

" " stuffed, 300 

dandelions, 304 
egg-plant, baked, 297 
" " fried, 298 

" " stuffed, 298 

" endives, puree of, 304 

" kale, 304 

lentils, puree of, 307 
" saute, 308 
" lettuce, au jus, 305 

" " puree of, 305 

lima beans, 306 
" mushrooms, baked, 286 



Vegetables, mushrooms, a la borde- 
laise, 286 
" broiled, 284 

" canned, stew- 

ed, 285 
fried, 284 
" " remarks, 283 

" " scalloped, 

287 
" stewed with 

cream, 285 
" stewed plain, 

285 
okra, 314 
" stewed, 314 
" and tomatoes stew- 
ed, 314 
" onions, baked, 313 

" " to boil, 312 

" " cream sauce, 312 

" " glazed, 313 

" " Spanish, 314 

" oyster-plant, 315 

" " cream sauce. 

315 
" " fried, 316 

" " fritters, 316 

" " au gratin, 

316 
" " mock oys- 

ters, 316 
" saute, 315 

" parsnips, to boil, 318 

" " fried, 320 

" " " balls, 320 

" " fritters, 319 

" " mashed, 320 

" " saute, 319 

" " stewed, cream 

sauce, 319 
" peas, to boil, 289 

" " green, 289 

" " " stewed, 289 

" " puree of, 290 

" " " " dried, 307 

" peppers, stuffed, 295 

" potato balls, 270 

" " chips, 275 

" " croquettes, 270 

" " hash, cream, 274 

" " " fried, 269 

" " puff, 269 

" " snow, 267 

" " souffle, 271 

" potatoes, baked, 267 

" " to boil, 266 

11 << (< <i new> 267 



INI>EX. 



579 



Vegetables, potatoes, with boiled fish, 

" " a la bourgeoise, 

275 
" " a la Braban- 

conne, 271 
" " cold boiled, 268 

" " a la Delmonico, 

273 
" " a la diable, 273 

" " " duchesse, 

274 
" " farcied, 272 

" " a la Francaise, 

277 
" " fricasseed, 274 

" " a la Hollan- 

daise, 275 
" " a. la julienne, 

276 
" " Lyonnaise, 268 

" " mashed, 267 

" " New Orleans, 

270 
" " a la Parisienne, 

276 
" " Philadelphia, 

273 
" " roast, with meat, 

268 
" " saute, 268 

" " stewed, 272 

" red beans, puree of, 306 

" remarks, 265 

" rice, boiled, 323 

" " border, 322 

" " creole boiled, 323 

" samp, 309 

" " fried, 309 

" to soften water for, 537 

" sorrel, puree of, 304 

" spinach, a la creme, 303 

" au jus, 302 
" " pie-plant, 303 

" sprouts, Brussels, 293 

" sprue and eggs, 288 

" squash, summer, 294 

" Turk's head, 294 
" string-beans, 305 

" sweet potatoes, baked, 277 

" " " boiled, 278 

" " caramel, 

277 
" fried, 277 
" " puree baked, 

278 
" " " puree tomato 

to sauce, 277 



Vegetables, sweet potatoes, roasted 
with meat, 278 
Time-Table for, 264 
" tomato, rice, 282 

" " souffle, 282 

" tomatoes, baked, 279 

" " fried, 279 

" with macaroni, 

283 
" roasted with 
beef, etc., 280 
" " scalloped, 281 

" stewed, 281 

stuffed with 
mushrooms, 
282 
" " stuffed a. la reine, 

280 
stuffed with to- 
mato sauce, 280 
" turnips, baked with mut- 

ton, 321 
" to boil, 320 
" browned, 322 
" cream sauce for 
boiled mutton, 
321 
" glazed, 321 
" au gratin, 322 
" " jus, 321 

" mashed, 321 
tumip-tops, 304 
Veloutee, creme, 460 
" sauce, 251 
Velvet cakes for tea, 393 
" cream, 460 
" sauce (pudding), 450 
Venison in a chafing dish, 222 
" haunch of, No. I., 220 
" " " No. II., 221 

" note, 534 
" pasty, 222 
" saddle of, 220 
" steak, broiled No. I., 221 
" " " No. II., 221 

" stew, 222 
Vermicelli soup, 11 
Vinaigre aromatique, 521 
" a l'estragon, 520 
" framboise, 527 
Vinaigrette, sauce, 258 
Vin chaud, 526 
Vinegar, pepper, 520 
" raspberry, 527 
" spiced, 521 
" tarragon, 520 
Virginia batter-cake, 378 
" corn-cakes, 385 



58o 



INDEX. 



Vitement fait, 41 1 

Volaille, chaud-froid de, 193 

croquettes de, No. I., 192 
" " No. II., 193 

mayonnaise de, 334 
pain de, 191 
Volailles, foies de, sautes, 181 
Vol-au-vent, 230 

" bourgeois, 226 



WAFFLES, plain, 383 
rice, 383 
Waffles, without yeast or soda, 383 
Walnut cake, 409 

" (black) candy, 514 
" wafers, 412 
Wash for cleaning gloves, 547 
Washing, fluid, 547 
Washington pie, 416 
Water of boiled potatoes, 537 
" rice, 530 

" to soften, for vegetables, 537 
" toast, 530 
Water-cress, 327 
Water-ice, lemon (see ices), 500 
Watermelon rind, preserved, 507 
Wedding cake, 394 
Welsh rare-bit, 340 

" to serve, 544 
Westphalra croquettes, 168 



Whip, apple, 474 

" tapioca, 474 
Whipped cream, 457 

" sauce (pudding), 450 
White, maigre soup, 34 

" mountain cake (Phila.), 403 
" roux, 244 
" sauce, 250 
" soup, 18 
Whitebait, 48 

" omelet, 370 

White-bean soup, 33 
Wild duck, jelly sauce, 207 

" " salmi with olives, 206 
" " 205 
Wine cake, 408 
" currant, 527 
" icing, 422 
" jelly, 465 
" sauce (pudding), 453 
Winter okra soup, 35 
Woodcock, roasted No. I., 208 
" No. II., 208 
" saute, 207 

" Scotch, 343 

YARMOUTH bloaters, 65 
Yeast, 373 
Yeast, (note), 541 
Yorkshire pudding, 93, 392 




